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FAQs on Clown Gobies 2 Related
Articles: Genus Gobiodon Gobies,
Related FAQs: Gobiodons
1, Gobiodon Identification,
Gobiodon Behavior, Gobiodon
Compatibility, Gobiodon Selection,
Gobiodon Systems, Gobiodon Feeding,
Gobiodon Disease, Gobiodon
Reproduction,
True Gobies: True Gobies, Gobies
2, Goby Identification,
Goby Behavior, Goby Selection,
Goby Compatibility, Goby Feeding,
Goby Systems, Goby Disease,
Goby Reproduction,
Amblygobius Gobies, Neon Gobies, Genus
Coryphopterus Gobies, Mudskippers,
Shrimp Gobies, Sifter Gobies,
Gobiodon with urchin spine through the head. Shades of Old
SteveM of SNL! | 
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Sick Clown Goby... reading re Gobiodon, on WWM
5/17/08 Hi - <Hello> I love your site and I
have picked up so much good information, but I am still brand new to
this and need some help. <Okay... glad to> I have a 46 gallon
bowfront SW- fish only. Currently I have 35 lbs of live sand and approx
50 lbs of live rock. I am running a magnum 350 dual canister filter and
a magnum hang on tank convertible canister filter. <Mmmm> My
system has been set up for 3 months or so. As of yesterday my ammonia,
nitrite and nitrates all tested at 0ppms - which is probably no surprise
because the only thing I have in it aside from some hermit crabs and
assorted snails are 3 green chromis - which I acquired three weeks ago
and are thriving. I have a small in tank refugium set up .... with a bit
of refugium mud and macro algae. I am trying to be on the cautious side,
because a few weeks after I set up my tank and I was "sure" as any new
impatient fish lover can be that it had cycled I purchased two false
Perculas and lost them both within two weeks. But since everything seems
to be going well right now, I decided to add two yellow clown gobies.
<Gobiodon/s... really need fully established reef systems of size...
with Acroporids (live) to live and feed on... and are not social animals
really...> I QT them for a few days - they seem pretty laid back (one
moreso than the other) but were eating - had nice color - no obvious
signs of disease so I put them in my display tank. I realize they like
to perch and watch a lot so I was not expecting them to be extremely
active- and I did notice that one was more reserved than the other - so
I was not surprised that they found some crevices to hide in. After a
day the more assertive of the two started to come out - he has quite a
personality and seems to love his tonga branches. But the quieter one
stayed hiding in the crevices for another day or so and I was not able
to get a good look at him. Well today I got a good look at his face - at
first I thought he had a piece of flake food stuck to his lip but upon
closer evaluation it looks more like a growth - he is also losing color
in his cheeks and his body seems to be losing color as well.... and when
I looked at him straight on his gills seem to almost balloon out as he
is breathing. Currently I am trying to vary the fishes diets - mostly
flakes and pellets <Mmmm, this won't "do it" nutritionally here>
until I feel confident that I am not overfeeding. Occasionally cyclopeze
- But I can't even entice this little guy to eat mysis shrimp. I have no
idea how I am going to catch him if I need to put him in a hospital tank
and no idea what I may be dealing with even if I do manage to wrangle
him. Do you have any suggestions? I am not sure I can get a picture
because he keeps hiding - but if I can get one should I send it along.
I appreciate any advice... Very Cautious Chris <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/gobiodon.htm and the linked files above. Bob
Fenner>
How many gobies? Comp., Gobiodon, Gobiosoma 11/15/07
Hi all, We're thinking of adding some cleaner gobies and maybe a
clown goby and I had some questions for you. We have a 60g tank with two
clowns, a Banggai cardinal, two cleaner shrimp and some snails and
hermit crabs. We're looking to add more cleaners to stave off ich
and the like, also because from what I hear and read, gobies are good
tank additions. <Some...> My question pertains to quantity and
getting along between goby species. I've read up a bit on your site and
just wanted to see if my plan holds water. I'm thinking that maybe a
small group of neon gobies could be added, maybe 4-6? <Mmm, I'd stick
with two. They are territorial, might fight. Two will do all the good
cleaning-wise any other number might do here> And then maybe one or
two clown gobies. <Do you have live Acropora for them to feed, live
on?> Do you think this is too many gobies for our tank? These
different types of gobies will get along in our tank size, yes?
<Should, yes> That'd probably be it for fish in our tank. We're big
on not overstocking. Also, we are using crushed coral at the moment,
this isn't bad for them, right? <Not important... but other habitats
presence is...> And the cleaner shrimp and cardinal shouldn't be a
bad compatibility mix for them, right? <What species is/are the
cleaner shrimp? Stenopids might consume these> And while I have your
attention, do these fish get their food from the fish cleanings?
<Mmm, the Cleaner gobies to a good extent. Gobiodon spp. mainly consume
SPS polyps in the wild> Meaning that they could starve if the fish
don't let the gobies clean? <Mmm, no... should be fed purposely... A
refugium... with all that it implies is best here> I think I read
that they also eat brine shrimp and such, but wanted to make sure they
will in fact eat regular foods like formula one, Mysis, brine, krill,
things like that. <Usually, yes> Thanks! ~Ashlin <Welcome.
BobF> Yellow Clown Goby in 10
gallon 12/29/06 Hi, My yellow clown goby has
been in his 10 gallon home for a week. Bob, his white spots did go away
and his skin has cleared up, but his tailfin is a bit frayed. Should I
be concerned? <Mmm, a bit too soon to tell... This could
well be a "stage" in the cycling of an external parasite... look for its
return in a few days time> To try and target feed him in the
tank I started putting small bits of brine shrimp or Cyclop-eeze on the
end of a bamboo skewer (used for shish kabobs) and swished it by where
he's perched. <You must have good vision and eye-hand coordination!>
At first he'd dive under the rocks as soon as the stick hit the water
and I think most of the food got pulled in by the filter so he wasn't
eating much... but now he knows that food is attached to that stick he
swims up to the skewer (blunt end definitely) and picks the shrimp off
before I have a chance to shake it off in the water. So, now I just
hold the stick and he picks all the food off and then dives back to his
artificial Acropora perch. I target feed him like that about 4 times
daily, and a couple times I put very tiny bits of flake, just a few, on
the surface and he swims up and eats that. He lost some weight during
those first days when he hid from my feeding time so I am feeding him
smaller bits more often at the moment. <Good> I added the
Talbot's damsel <A great small damsel species, but in a ten gallon?
Too little space.> yesterday early evening and he was quickly
gathered after less than a day in the tank and taken back to the LFS
this afternoon after he kept 'charging' at the goby and chasing the goby
when the goby left his perching spot for a short swim. <Yes...
territoriality in too small a territory...> The goby hid for several
hours after I had to remove all the large rocks to catch the
damsel. But he's back hopping/swimming from perch to rock all over the
tank looking much more relaxed. I "might" consider putting one other
fish in with him but in such a small system I'm pretty clueless and
skeptical as to what would be a suitable tankmate that wouldn't get very
big and be very easy going. Would adding another yellow clown goby be a
good or bad idea? <Bad... Gobiodon are territorial as well> A
Neon goby? (The suggestion from staff person at LFS was one clown goby,
one neon goby) <Mmm, no... keep looking is my advice> I could
be quite happy with the clown goby being the only fish in the tank (and
by the looks of things I think he would be, too.) The LFS staff person
also suggested seahorses, but I think they might be very challenging to
keep. <Can be... though the ones cultured by reputable outfits... of
species that are and stay small... are not hard... See Ocean Rider's
listserv... subscribe (it's free) and browse a while...> I do
plan to add some coral later. I'd like to do more research (especially
regarding propagation to keep from overcrowding) but at the time I'm
thinking one small rock with a few Ricordea mushrooms, nano size rock of
blue mushrooms, one or two types of zoanthid (nano size as well) and one
small finger leather. Other possible suggestions? <This will be
enough here> Is that too much? Oh sorry, lighting: 40 Watt 50/50
USA Current with moonlight. I've seen some pretty
red macroalgae in the LFS's tanks for sale. Bad/Good idea to add into a
tank? <Read re... on WWM> Does it depend on type? If so, I'm
sorry I didn't get the name of it. Or is all macroalgae only meant for
sumps and refugiums? My immediate
concern now is that the Tunze DOC nano skimmer I have in there seems to
be emitting fine bubbles from the base of the unit. They're really hard
to see sometimes and it depends on the lighting. Also I have a Hagen
Aqua Clear 70 (300) that is set up as a small refugium with some Chaeto,
and it too seems to have bubbles forming (a bit larger though) as the
water enters the tank. Because of this I can see tiny bubbles just
sitting on some areas of rock and on that artificial Acropora. My
concern is for the health of the goby because once the lights are out he
moves from his artificial Acropora perch to laying on the rock which is
directly under the outflow from the Aqua Clear. With the main light off
and only the light on the Aqua Clear for the Chaeto, the fine bubbles
become much more visible and I can see them floating up and mixing with
the outflow from the Aqua Clear. Could he be 'breathing' in these
bubbles? Can it hurt him? Will these bubbles cause problems for
corals? <Fine bubbles are to be avoided... I might take the Tunze
unit apart, check for fit of the components> On another note:
just curious... I noticed as the goby was laying on the rock a
bristleworm stuck it's head out looking for some food. Will its
bristles irritate the goby if it comes in contact with the goby?
Thank you again, Debbie P. <Not problematical if small... Read
my friend. Bob Fenner>
Please help - Treatment of Gobies
6/19/06 Dear Mr. Fenner I am writing to you in great
distress, in the hope that you might be able to educate me further in
the type of medications that can't be used on Clown Gobies. With
all the best intentions in the world, I put my Citron Goby in to my
quarantine tank to treat for a whitespot/velvet infection. I started
to treat her with Copper - Seachem Cupramine, to be exact. I only put
the first days dose in. Everything seemed fine. Later that day I then
went to browse the web for more information on the Green Clown Gobies I
was thinking of buying. I stumbled across your very informative webpage
for this breed, and noted, with horror that under the disease section of
your Gobies page you write, "Gobioids for the most part are
relatively disease resistant, with the exception of one type of disease,
environmental. Though they have cycloid or ctenoid scales, they have
about the same intolerance of harsh chemical treatments as "naked"
fishes. Many more are bumped off from copper, malachite and formalin-
containing medicants than from the infectious diseases they're used
against." <Yes> In sheer panic, I rushed downstairs to see the
horrific sight of my clown goby. Her skin had literally started to
dissolve, and there were parts of her fins eroding at the edges, and
places where he skin had bubbled up. Most horrifically, there were two
places where the copper had eaten in to her body. She also had what
looked like red blood lines to the rear of her gills ... internal
bleeding? Words cannot describe how devastated I am.
I rushed to do a 50% water change, using my main tank water, and
started to run a PolyFilter, in order to significantly dilute the copper
solution. <Good moves> 30 hours on, she is still
alive, and there has been no further damage to her skin that I can
see. I know that it is unlikely that she will survive this ordeal, but
I am desperate to do all I can, and to make her as comfortable as
possible. I am daily testing the water parameters. The QT is blacked
out, and I am starting to lower the salinity, in order to keep and
bacterial infections that could arise from the damage, at bay.
Yours is the only website I have found that indicates towards this
problem with Gobies. <Mmm... a speculation re the "capacity",
utility of the Net at this juncture. I and others have written (magazine
articles, books) touching on this topic/issue for many years> I have
purchased a copy of your book, and have read there what you have written
about this also. <Oh!> My very experienced LFS
also had not heard of this problem. I was wondering whether you
are able to tell me if this is a normal reaction by my clown goby to
this treatment. <It is. Such "toxic" treatments, even with chelated
copper solutions need to be carefully measured at about the near lowest
physiological dose (0.15 ppm free cupric ion equivalent)> Also, does
this happen to all Gobies? <Nearly all... though smaller
individuals, species are more direly and quickly mal-affected> I
understand that this reaction is caused by copper, malachite and
Formalin-containing medicants. Does that mean any use of those
mentioned substances, even at very low doses? <One can... in actual
practice these materia-medica are used by public aquariums,
wholesalers... daily> Would there be any difference in reaction
from chelated and non-chelated copper? <Mmm, oh yes... The free
cupric ion is really the only important measure in both/all cases.
Utilizing sequestered compounds only/allows for a more "steady"
dosage... The chelated is better for hobbyists and commercial settings
in almost all cases. Free copper (sulfate) solutions are of value for
raceway, open, culture, some high-tech. settings> Why is the
Gobiodon reaction not a more widely know fact? <Mmm... ours seems an
esoteric field... My next guess is that there are so few aquarists that
"make it to" the level of serious keeping of this huge group of fishes
that they have little chance/opportunity (as yet) to communicate their
observations, findings> I would be very appreciative of any
further information and help that you could give me. Kind regards
Claire Read-Ball <I do sincerely hope that you remain active in
this hobby field... And strongly encourage you to pen an article for
sale to the print and electronic media in our interest for your and
all's edification. Bob Fenner> Treatment of Gobies, Copper,
Cupramine 7/10/06 Dear Mr. Fenner Thank you so
much for your kind reply a little while ago, when I wrote to you
regarding the terrible incident I had with my Clown Goby having a
horrific reaction to copper. I thought that I would let you know that
although my subsequent water changes prevented any further damage to
her, she never really recovered, and died 5 days later. <Thank you
for this update> I had been hoping that as she made it through 48
hours, she might recover, but I think the damage was too severe. I
also wrote to the company who makes the copper treatment, to see what
their advice was on treating Gobies with copper. I thought that you
would be interested to see their reply, as they seem to think that
copper does not have any ill affects on Gobies. I would be interested
to see what you think, before I reply to them: "Cupramine works
great on most copper sensitive fish like puffers and Angels. You
will find that puffers are mush more sensitive to copper than
gobies. We have had many people use Cupramine on gobies and puffers
without a problem. I'm sorry for what your goby is going through but
I can assure you it is not from the proper use of Cupramine. One
dose of Cupramine (1 ml per 10.5 gallons) will result in a copper
concentration of 0.25 mg/L. I suspect that your fishes reaction is a
result of disease or possibly you used Cupramine inappropriately.
<Possibly> Here are some questions that may help us figure out what
occurred: Where did you get the water for the quarantine tank?
Was it freshly made salt water? Did you check to make sure it matched
pH, temperature, salinity, and that the ammonia and nitrite were at
zero? <Good questions, concerns> Did you add any other chemical
with the Cupramine? Water conditioner, medication, ammonia remover.
Did you have a UV sterilizer running? <This will remove the
copper...> Did you do anything that could have stressed the Goby
prior to being placed in the aquarium? Freshwater dip Are you
sure that the fish has ich or velvet? What you describe sounds like
Brooklynella. (rapid progression, string-like material hanging off the
fish) <A valid concern. Copper compounds will not treat this
protozoan complaint... but it is rare on Gobiids/oids> Please let me
know the answers to these questions and I will help you the best I CAN.
<A very nice response indeed> Best Regards, Seachem Tech
Support" Thank you for your time and help once
again. Kind regards Claire <Thank you for sending this
along. There is much to know/relate concerning copper's use... Not a
simple, use so much of this, in such and such condition/s. Bob Fenner>
Citron Goby ... feeding mostly 5/9/06 Hi Everybody,
<Chris> Hi from the UK, guess what - I need your expertise!
<Hotay!> On Friday I bought a Citron Goby, he was eating ok at the
fish shop & looked fine, they had had this fish in the shop for 2-3
weeks prior to my buying him. Since then he has been in my new(ish)
tank (established February this year) he hung about on the back wall and
the front corner for Friday evening & most of Saturday (when a head of
Acropora was added - first sizeable coral to be added (apart from the
Xenia colony temporarily in there)) on Saturday night he hung about
close to the Acro but on Sunday he was hiding behind the rockwork
against the centre back overflow. <Unusual... you likely know this
genus largely lives on, in, under Acropora tables, feeds on their polyps
in the wild> On Saturday he ate a little but since then has not
eaten (trying with frozen brine & Mysis) also his breathing seems very
rapid to me - up to about 100 x per minute (gill movements) & he seems
to have become paler. He now seems reluctant to move, allowing food to
drift right past him with no attempt to feed. <Not unusual... stress
from moving...> Tank specs are - 50gal 200 litre main tank - 24"
cube, internal weir mud sump below with Chaeto (currently has carbon
& PolyFilter in also) 5000 litres of water movement per hour
150w HQI MH Tunze nanodoc skimmer 3 to 4 litres evaporation per
day replaced with saturated Kalkwasser through auto top off with Peri
pump & floats (which indicates a high calcium demand to me bearing in
mind the small load of calcifying organisms (list below & calcium slowly
dropping unless supplemented with Tropic Marin BioCalcium) which
confuses me a little, does this seem appropriate to you? <Mmm...
well... seems high for what you list... But you're likely engaged in
a/the self-defeating mix of alkalinity and biomineral... precipitation
here... Please read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm and the linked files
above> 30 kilos LR (Indonesian) 2 cleaner shrimp assorted
cleanup crew 2 small plating Monti frags (large coin size) 1
small 1 1/2" Monti digitata frag 1 small 1" Acro frag & the new
Acropora head mentioned above 3"-4" across Tests today - 1.025
sg Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0.2 Temp ranges 26.5deg c
to 28deg c pH 7.95 ranging to 8.22 Alkalinity had dropped a
little to 9dkh Calcium a little depressed at 370 Dissolved
Oxygen at about 5mgl (initially tested about 3mgl but I retested & also
tested my old tank for comparison which came out at 6mgl) both these
readings struck me as low (new tank & old tank) considering both have
skimmer & lots of water movement - any thoughts? <Seven mg/l (or
ppm) is likely about all to be expected, possible here... given
temperature...> Background - About 3 weeks ago I added 2 Banggai
Cardinals - one I found dead (intact) after 2 days (without warning) &
the other disappeared completely without trace after 11 days with
stringy white trailings from anus visible the day before (this fish
wasn't over keen on food either but was eating & still in good shape
when it died), <You don't mention the "Q" word... quarantine... You
should be using such> corals and all other life remain in excellent
health. I am becoming very worried about the new Goby and am unsure of
how to proceed, I have had great success with my old tank (with WWM help
of course, sincere thanks to you all) & have my 2 clowns whom I don't
want to risk in the new tank with this behavior & unexplained fish
death. I clearly don't want to risk this Goby either especially after
the heartbreaking loss of first one then the second Banggai. I have
read I think most of the Goby FAQs and those others which seemed most
relevant currently (recently) and a great many others in my year and a
half of reefing. So, what to do about my Goby? <Mmm, for one, read
re the ping-pong issue re supplementing both alkalinity and
biominerals... do this in new water for change-outs... consider cutting
the "Kalk habit"... and the possibility of adding vitamins to live foods
to entice the Gobiodon> Please do let me know if I can add further
information at all & I look forward to your advice Cheers
Chris P.S If there is a footer on this email with my work details
please delete before posting (sometime it shows up, others not) Many
thanks. <Will do. Cheers, Bob Fenner, in not-so-sunny S. Cal.>
Goby With Urchin
Spine Through Its Head! - 02/12/06 Hi, <<Hello>> We
have just discovered that out new little goby (3 weeks in tank) has
a spike through his head from our urchin (see photos).
<<Yowza! More than 30 years in this hobby...first time I've seen
anything like that...>> He does not seem to be distressed and is
feeding and swimming as normal. <<Hmm, must have not struck
anything 'vital'.>> Since the photos he has banged his head
around on a rock and taken both ends off - we can still see the
spike inside. Is there anything we should do or should we just
observe? <<I would be inclined to leave things as they are. If
the spine has not killed the goby by now, catching/handling it to
try to remove the spine will cause undo stress or even kill it
outright. Many thanks Claire <<Regards, EricR>> | 
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