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FAQs on Clown Gobies Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Genus Gobiodon Gobies,
Related FAQs: Gobiodons
1,
Gobiodons
2, True
Gobies, Gobies 2, Gobiodon
Identification, Gobiodon Behavior,
Gobiodon Compatibility,
Gobiodon Selection,
Gobiodon Systems,
Gobiodon Disease,
Gobiodon Reproduction, True Gobies:
Goby
Identification, Goby Behavior,
Goby Selection,
Goby Compatibility, Goby Feeding,
Goby Systems,
Goby Disease, Goby Reproduction,
Amblygobius
Gobies, Neon
Gobies, Genus
Coryphopterus Gobies, Mudskippers,
Shrimp
Gobies, Sifter
Gobies,
Large, aggressive tankmates can
put small gobies right out of feeding! Bodianus mesothorax.
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Starving Goby? 9/24/07
I've got a 55 gallon tank with one OC Clown and Royal Gramma along with new
resident Brown barred Goby.
<Mmm, I know of a Black Barred Goby (Priolepis nocturnus).
It has been about 3 weeks since "Digger" has moved in from QT and he had been
acting normal sifting sand and totally destroying my hair algae
and other algae growth. He still sifts in the sand but could he have eaten all
the critters in the sand so fast?
<Possible.>
I am afraid that he did too good of a job as he appears to be "wasting away". He
doesn't seem to be very good at eating food, it's hit or miss with eating brine
or flakes. I have just bought algae pellets, shrimp pellets and Tubifex worm
cubes to try and entice some feeding.
<At this stage, not so sure if he is going to recognize pellets as food.>
Not sure if it is working or not. What is a boy to do? What can get this guy to
eat something not in the sand. He ate brine fine in the LFS.
<I'd try vitamin enriched Brine Shrimp and Mysis Shrimp. They are not that
difficult to acclimate as far as feeding goes. Do read here and linked files
above, especially the FAQ's on feeding. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks again for your help,
<You're welcome.>
Brad
Re: Saving a Starving Goby! 9/26/07
Hey Scott.
<Hello there!>
An update on my starving Citron Goby. I haven't been able to catch and move him
to my fuge. I did buy New Spectrum 1mm pellets as suggested (I opted for the $15
formula that is supposedly formulated for picky fish). I searched on-line and
also asked for "glass worms" but people at the LFS look at me like I'm an idiot.
I decided to try frozen blood worms in addition to frozen Mysis, Formula One and
Cyclop-eeze flake, as well as whole freeze dried Cyclop-eeze. Everyone loves the
blood worms.
<A lot of fish do..>
Unfortunately, in spite of feeding small amounts of pellets soaked in Selcon 2-3
times a day on top of normal feeding, my Goby continues to starve. I just can't
figure this out. He chases down food like there is no tomorrow, but 9 times out
of 10 he mouths the Mysis or worms for a minute and spits it out. The only thing
I have seen him eat without spitting is Formula One flake.
<Well, then I'd keep feeding the flakes. I'd keep enriching them with Selcon,
etc..>
I hate for this fish to die. The hard part is that he's not jut sitting around
waiting to die--he's active, attempts to eat, seems to enjoy his surroundings.
At a loss really.
Andy
<Well, Andy- I'm wondering about possible internal parasites. Sometimes, these
fishes come in with parasites, and need to be "cleaned" internally. I'm
wondering if one of the anti-parasitic foods would help. I've used these foods
with Meicanthus species in the past with great results! Worth a shot in this
instance. Keep trying...Consider putting vitamins in the water, such as Vita
Chem...Could induce algae, but it is absorbed through the fish's skin, and
possibly even consumed. Can help stimulate appetite. Again- take all necessary
action to save the fish! Best of luck! regards, Scott F.>
Please Help My Citron Goby… (Not Meeting Its Nutritional Needs) – 09/16/07
Ahoy Crew.
<<Oy Mate!>>
It's actually been a long 2 weeks since I last bothered you.
<<No bother, I’m sure…>>
I am worried about my Citron Goby.
<<Oh?>>
He is skinny.
<<Mmm…>>
Really skinny.
<<Not good>>
Like, I can see his bones skinny.
<<Really not good>>
I've had him for about 2.5 months.
<<And all the while slowly starving to death…is not an uncommon tale>>
When I got him, he looked pretty good. He was in quarantine for 4 weeks, during
which time I tried to fatten him up with frozen Mysis, but he seemed to like
only brine shrimp--better than nothing.
<<Ultimately (and unfortunately)…this is not really true>>
Now he resides in my 110g (48x30x18). When I feed the fish, he is definitely
interested in food, and he vigorously chases down food until he gets a few
bites, and then he retires to his perch. He is very active, but he seems to be
getting skinnier by the day.
<<Indeed>>
His other tank mates are a 4" Sailfin Tang,
<<Really should be in a bigger tank>>
a 3" Brown Combtooth Blenny, a 3" Gold Stripe Maroon, a 3" Filament Flasher
Wrasse, and a 2" Royal Gramma. Everyone gets along beautifully. I also have 2
cleaner shrimps,
2 Sally Lightfoots, about 30 various hermits, 12 Turbos, 8 hairy green shrooms,
6 red shrooms, 2 Ricordeas, 2 small Capnella tree corals, a nice-sized Lemnalia,
a red/dark brown BTA, and various very cool LR hitchhikers. I auto feed Formula
One flake with an Eheim 3581 early in the day, and then feed when I get home
using a variety of frozen foods (Mysis, minced squid, minced oyster,
occasionally brine).
<<A nice selection, though I would replace the brine shrimp with glass worms.
The worms are very palatable and attractive to the fishes and are much more
nutritious than the brine. I have often used glass worms to entice finicky
eaters to start feeding>>
I target feed whole Cyclop-eeze to the tree corals about every other day, and
feed the BTA once or twice a week with minced seafood (squid, Mysis, or oyster).
<<The problem with the goby is not the foods you are “adding” to the tank, but
rather the lack of “natural” foods in the display. These “coral” gobies are
almost always found in close association with stony corals; more specifically,
species of Acropora, Seriatopora, and Pocillopora…depending on species of goby.
Most all these fishes feed on the mucus and occasional polyp of their chosen
“host” coral colony. Even if this fish is feeding every day, it is obviously
still lacking something in its diet in the absence of a proper host coral.
Simply adding Acropora frags will not solve the problem as the fish will
irritate “small” frags/colonies to the point where the coral usually suffers and
dies…in my experience. Your best option might be to try the 1mm pelleted food
from New Life Spectrum. This food has shown anecdotal promise with other
“difficult to feed” species such as Moorish Idols, and in my own personal
experience, the Leopard Wrasse species Macropharyngodon meleagris. Soaking the
pellets for a few minutes in an enhancement product like Selcon or Vita-Chem is
also beneficial. If the goby will accept this food and is not too far gone
already…well...is definitely worth the try. The Spectrum product is also an
excellent addition to your feeding repertoire for all your fishes>>
Filtration is wet-dry trickle, 90lbs of mostly pacific live rock (Fiji, Marshall
Island, Tonga, Tonga Slab, and a few pieces of Florida aquacultured), a 30g
in-line refugium with 4" DSB, 7 lbs Fiji rock, and Chaeto on a reverse daylight
cycle, and an in-sump Coral Life Super Skimmer that works pretty well (now that
I installed the Tunze Osmolator). In addition to the return flow from my Little
Giant pump, internal circulation is via 2 MaxiJet 1200s and 1 MaxiJet 900 (I
estimate about 1,600-1,800 gph). Lighting is via 6 T5 54W HO (4 10,000K
daylights and 2 460nm actinics). 10% weekly water changes with pre-mixed
RO/DI-Instant Ocean, and daily auto top-off with RO/DI. Chemical filtration is
ESV activated carbon in the sump that I change every month. Numbers: Ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, phosphate all 0; Calcium 350-400; alk 3.5-4.0 meq/L; pH 8.3;
temp 78*-80*F. I dose/test daily (or as needed) with B-Ionic 2-part calcium
buffer, and I add Iodine with weekly water changes.
Oy! Bored yet?
<<Not at all…your system sounds very nice/seems well maintained>>
My refugium has tons of copepods and many amphipods. I've built up the live rock
in the fuge so that it works up to the outflow, hoping to ensure that pods get
into my display. I throw a few shrimp pellets in the fuge once a week to make
sure there is food for the pods.
<<Very good…is important in my opinion to feed a refugium if one wishes to keep
the biota within “populating”>>
I would think with the fishless refugium, 90lbs of live rock in the display and
supplemental feeding, the Goby should be in hog heaven, but obviously that's not
the case.
<<Indeed…for reasons stated>>
I am seriously considering throwing the Goby in the fuge for a while to fatten
him up (assuming I can catch him), but I'm worried that's just a temporary
fix--that he'll experience the same problem once reintroduced (of course, I
could always keep him in my fuge, but that sort of defeats the purposes of the
fuge and of having him). Or . . . maybe he's just not happy in my tank and needs
to go back to LFS where someone with a nano will pick him up. What are your
thoughts on these ideas?
<<Transferring the fish to the refugium can’t hurt at this point…and may
facilitate feeding with the Spectrum pellets soaked in the enhancement
products>>
I love this guy--his yellow color with striking blue lines.
<<Lovely little fishes, agreed…but not easily kept in this instance>>
I hate to get rid of him, but I don't want to kill him either.
<<Unless you know someone with a mature system with large Acroporid colonies
that would take it (and not completely without risk to the corals, as
explained), you are likely this fish’s best hope right now>>
I really need a splash of yellow in my tank and like small fish.
<<I will submit to you that the wrasse Halichoeres chrysus might fit this bill
(depending on what you consider “small”) and be much more suitable for captive
keeping>>
As always, thanks for the insight.
Andy
<<Happy to share, Andy. Please try the Spectrum pellets (and the glass worms),
and do let me know how you fare with this fish. Regards, Eric Russell>>
Re: Please Help My Citron Goby... (Not
Meeting Its Nutritional Needs) - 09/17/07
Thanks, Eric.
<<Quite welcome, Andy>>
A big help.
<<I’ll keep my fingers crossed>>
I actually received your email while in the LFS, so fortuitous timing.
<<Indeed>>
I picked up the New Life Spectrum For Small Fish--tiny pellets. I assume this is
what you were referring to.
<<Yes...as well as the regular (1mm) pellets>>
The goby does like these pellets, so at least that's a good sign.
<<Excellent...feed a couple/three or more time a day if/when possible...and do
also consider the vitamin soak I mentioned. With the goby taking the Spectrum
pellets it may just have a chance!>>
I also picked up the yellow wrasse you mentioned.
<<Ah yes, Halichoeres chrysus...a great aquarium/reef safe wrasse in my
opinion>>
I've actually had my eye on this fish for a while as a planned last addition,
and the LFS had one that looked good for only $15. He is now swimming happily in
QT.
<<Excellent>>
As for the Sailfin Tang, I know he is going to get big and that he may
ultimately need to be moved/traded to a larger system.
<<Mmm, not “ultimately” my friend...can/will develop behavioral and health
issues from “growing up” in a too small system>>
He was one of my first fishes, and I didn't think about too much about size as I
assumed he would be similar to a yellow tang.
<<Not even close...I’ve seen Zebrasoma veliferum that were larger than dinner
plates>>
Then I found WWM. Live and learn.
<<Let’s hope [grin]>>
Unfortunately, it's a lot harder to get rid of a fish humanely than it is to buy
one.
<<Agreed...all the more reason for research beforehand...as you have learned>>
Andy Bulgin
<<Regards, Eric Russell>>
Acclimation/Citron Goby.
Feeding a Citron Goby
8/13/07
Good morning Crew.
<Hello Andy.>
I have a Citron Goby (Gobiodon citrinus) that's in my 30g QT. I have had him a
little over a week. He is very active at feeding time, but I'm not sure he is
eating. He races all around and picks up the food, but he appears to mouth it
for a few seconds and then spit it out. I've tried frozen Mysis, frozen brine
shrimp, cut up pieces of squid, cut up pieces of gulf shrimp, Cyclop-eeze, live
black worms, and, today, live brine shrimp that I hatched. I have read the FAQs
and other sources of info on feeding the guy and (I think) have tried just about
everything I've read. It's hard to see if he's getting skinny because he has
such large pectoral fins, but from what I "think" I see (may be paranoia), he
seems a little thin to me. Any thoughts?
<Well, you are definitely offering foods that he should eat. Mmm, I think I'd
try a 10% water change and see if that doesn't trigger an appetite, but skip a
day of feeding after the water change. Hopefully he will start eating soon.>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Andy Bulgin
Re: Acclimation/Citron Goby,
Feeding a Citron Goby
8/15/07
Thanks, James.
<You're welcome.>
It just so happened that I had done a 10% water change the night I wrote to WWM.
The goby actually is eating, but only brine shrimp, which I'm fortifying with
Selcon.
<Much better than no food.>
He chases the Mysis, but spits them out. Maybe he just needs time to acclimate.
I plan to keep in QT for 4 weeks rather than 2 to see if I can't get him ready
for the display.
On another note, I have a question about splitting mushrooms. I posted this on
the chat forum, but might as well ask the experts too. I have an Orange Ricordea
that has split. The two shrooms are hanging together by a very thin piece of
tissue. The original shroom is very well established on a piece of base rock,
but the second/new shroom looks like it's going to drop onto the substrate when
they finally split.
What should I do with this shroom? Leave it on the substrate? Move it to another
piece of rock (I'm worried that my flow will knock it off)?
I'm new to keeping inverts so I don't have any experience with splitting
creatures. Any thought would be appreciated.
<I'd probably move it to a piece of rock in a low current area. It will attach
in time. James (Salty Dog)>
Andy
Clown goby disease? 5/3/07
Hi. I think that my clown goby that I just recently got (4/27/07)
has some type of disease. It hasn't ate yet,
<... eaten>
I tried to get some brine shrimp close to it and it would grab it in its
mouth then spit it out.
<... don't eat this in the wild... Live/feed on Acropora polyps:
http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=9952&genusname=Gobiodon&speciesname=rivulatus>
Also there is some discoloration on it. It looks like bumpy skin.
<I see this>
The goby is in my 29 gal. tank that has been set up for over 3 years
with 1 yellow tang (which is soon to be transported to my 125 gal.) 1
blue damsel, 1 percula clown, 1 cleaner goby, and some inverts and
mushrooms.
<...>
i couldn't find anything on the web to help me out some I came to you.
Thanks a lot! Calvin.
<Should have studied ahead of buying... This specimen may have been
toxified by the Cnidarians, bullied by the other fishes... has no place
here. Bob Fenner> |
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Clown Goby Feeding... again 5/7/07
I asked a question a while ago, as to I was worried about my goby looking
skinny. I believe they are typically skinny, but you can see some brown in his
skin. Not sure if this is because he doesn't have much meat on his bones, lack
of nutrition, etc.
<Mmm, me neither... could be a "few things", but am concerned as I've seen this
same sort of marking on captive Gobiodons and never on wild specimens>
I was told to feed him variety. What I have is Mysis shrimp, Spirulina brine
shrimp, krill, and squid. I figured this was a wide variety but he seems picky.
<Yes... really need to live on (physically and nutritionally) live Acropora
(Table Coral) colonies... this is what they do and eat in the wild>
He does eat, but sometimes it looks like he can bite off more than he can chew,
and sometime spits the food out. Its not always,
but I occasionally see it. I fed him the other day, and out of nowhere he spit
out a amphipod/copepod, and it was quite larger. I try to feed him as little
as I can at a time, so he doesn't run around trying to collect everything. I
also watch him chew his food, and occasionally spit some out. He does eat
everyday I assure that, but it looks like he is picky. What is the best type of
food to get these guys? Would you suggest another type of food?
<Yes... the live SPS... You have read on WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gobiodonfdgfaq.htm
BobF>
Re: Clown Goby Feeding – 05/07/07
Hi Bob or whoever is assisting me,
I did learn that Clown Gobies would often perch around Acropora and feed off of
it, but I didn't know it was vital or just extremely important to house one. The
problem is that I don't think my lighting is strong enough to keep Acropora, but
possible to keep some other SPS corals. My lighting is a Nova Extreme T5HO with
a retro fit kit along with it, its the 36" fixture. If I place the coral near
the top of the tank or even in the middle, could it be possible to house SPS
corals for my Clown Goby?
<Possible>
I want whatever is best for him, but I know that many of these corals are in
need of high lighting. Even though I made this mistake, I decided to purchase
more books so I can learn more and prevent any mistakes, so I can plan much
easily now than I did in the past.
Thanks
Joe
(I posted the email before in case you would forget or not be able to see it
otherwise)
<Good. RMF>
Goby Diet, Mix it Up! 4/26/07
Hey WWM Crew,
<What's up Joe?>
My Clown Goby looks awfully skinny.
<Uh-oh.>
I never really noticed it before, until
I really took a good look at him. You can almost see through him, and notice
his bones and organs.
<Mmmm...not good, he needs some meat on his bones!>
He isn't really plump as other clown gobies look in
person and in pictures. I feed him every single day, and I watch him eat.
<What is he eating though and how much?>
The only other fish in the tank is the Flame Angel, and he favors the
Spirulina shrimp much more than the Mysid. The goby loves the Mysid, usually
eating as much as he can.
<Try mixing it up a little. Variety is important with diet, go for some Mysis
(PE is a personal favorite of mine), krill or even some finely chopped mussel or
bivalve meat. Also consider a vitamin/fatty-acid supplement like Selcon or
Zoecon.>
He doesn't really fear the Angel, he will sometimes attempt to
out compete him and get as much as he can from the cube and take it to the top
of his power head. What I do when I feed is place the cube on the surface,
holding it with my fingers, and let a certain amount of pieces break off, and
save the rest. Otherwise I would have a lot of uneaten food and excess
nitrates. Is there a way to beef him up? Or is it normal appearance?
<See above....remember "VARIETY.">
From,
Joe
<Adam J.>
Citron Goby eating behavior? - 03/02/07
Hi Guys!
<Hi Kim, Mich here.>
I've had a Citron Goby for about 6 weeks now. It has slowly withered away and
has stopped eating within the last 3 weeks.
<Uh oh! Not good.>
We have an established 75-gallon tank (protein skimmer, UV filter, refugium,
calcium reactor) with plenty of live rock and hiding spaces, great coralline
algae growth, and all the water quality numbers seem perfect. The other
tank-mates act like sharks during feeding times (yellow tang, Kole tang,
Foxface, skunk clown, long-nose hawkfish, Anthias, cleaner goby, pygmy angel,
six lined wrasse, crew of Chromis) and are seemingly plump & healthy.
<That's a lot of fish.>
Due to aggressive feeding behavior of the other fish, we thought the goby was
just too timid to compete for food. Although it does not eat, the goby is still
out in the open, perching on coral, hanging on to the glass, and occasionally
just swims in open water. There are no signs of abuse by the other fish.
<OK.>
The Goby appears to recognize there's food, as it will chomp at the food, but
then spit it back up. We alternate types of food between live brine shrimp
(enriched w/ phytoplankton), frozen enriched brine shrimp, frozen Mysis shrimp,
Formula 2 flakes, Cyclop-eeze, bloodworms, and zooplankton. We've also tried
putting drops of garlic and multivitamins on the food. All this with the same
result - the fish just seems to spit it out.
<A nice variety of foods.>
Yesterday, while the goby was perched on the glass, I was surprisingly able to
catch him (the fish are used to our hands in the tank to fix coral/rocks that
have fallen) and have successfully placed him into our 25-gallon refugium. We
hope to rehabilitate him down there, by himself, until he starts to put on more
weight. We tried feeding him live brine shrimp, but again, he jumped at the
sight of them, nibbled, spat them out, nibbled again, spat yet again, and swam
away.
<I think this was a good move, natural food possibilities in the refugium.>
Any suggestions on what to feed this anorexic citron goby?
<My biggest recommendation would be Selcon. I would soak all foods offered in
it. Otherwise, I would keep trying the meaty foods perhaps even some intended
for human consumption like finely shaved shrimp. Make sure any pieces are quite
diminutive. Hopefully will do better in the refugium without all the other fish
come feeding time. More info here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gobyfdgfaqs.htm>
Thanks for all your help.
<Welcome!>
BTW your website it great!
<Thanks! Glad you like it! -Mich>
Kim
Citron Goby ... feeding mostly 5/9/06
Hi Everybody,
<Chris>
Hi from the UK, guess what - I need your expertise!
<Hotay!>
On Friday I bought a Citron Goby, he was eating ok at the fish shop & looked
fine, they had had this fish in the shop for 2-3 weeks prior to my buying him.
Since then he has been in my new(ish) tank (established February this year) he
hung about on the back wall and the front corner for Friday evening & most of
Saturday (when a head of Acropora was added - first sizeable coral to be added
(apart from the Xenia colony temporarily in there)) on Saturday night he hung
about close to the Acro but on Sunday he was hiding behind the rockwork against
the centre back overflow.
<Unusual... you likely know this genus largely lives on, in, under Acropora
tables, feeds on their polyps in the wild>
On Saturday he ate a little but since then has not eaten (trying with frozen
brine & Mysis) also his breathing seems very rapid to me - up to about 100 x per
minute (gill movements) & he seems to have become paler. He now seems reluctant
to move, allowing food to drift right past him with no attempt to feed.
<Not unusual... stress from moving...>
Tank specs are -
50gal 200 litre main tank - 24" cube, internal weir
mud sump below with Chaeto (currently has carbon & PolyFilter in also)
5000 litres of water movement per hour
150w HQI MH
Tunze Nanodoc skimmer
3 to 4 litres evaporation per day replaced with saturated Kalkwasser through
auto top off with Peri pump & floats (which indicates a high calcium demand to
me bearing in mind the small load of calcifying organisms (list below & calcium
slowly dropping unless supplemented with Tropic Marin BioCalcium) which confuses
me a little, does this seem appropriate to you?
<Mmm... well... seems high for what you list... But you're likely engaged in
a/the self-defeating mix of alkalinity and biomineral... precipitation here...
Please read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm
and the linked files above>
30 kilos LR (Indonesian)
2 cleaner shrimp
assorted cleanup crew
2 small plating Monti frags (large coin size)
1 small 1 1/2" Monti digitata frag
1 small 1" Acro frag
& the new Acropora head mentioned above 3"-4" across
Tests today -
1.025 sg
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0.2
Temp ranges 26.5deg c to 28deg c
pH 7.95 ranging to 8.22
Alkalinity had dropped a little to 9dkh
Calcium a little depressed at 370
Dissolved Oxygen at about 5mgl (initially tested about 3mgl but I retested &
also tested my old tank for comparison which came out at 6mgl) both these
readings struck me as low (new tank & old tank) considering both have skimmer &
lots of water movement - any thoughts?
<Seven mg/l (or ppm) is likely about all to be expected, possible here... given
temperature...>
Background -
About 3 weeks ago I added 2 Banggai Cardinals - one I found dead (intact) after
2 days (without warning) & the other disappeared completely without trace after
11 days with stringy white trailings from anus visible the day before (this fish
wasn't over keen on food either but was eating & still in good shape when it
died),
<You don't mention the "Q" word... quarantine... You should be using such>
corals and all other life remain in excellent health. I am becoming very
worried about the new Goby and am unsure of how to proceed, I have had great
success with my old tank (with WWM help of course, sincere thanks to you all) &
have my 2 clowns whom I don't want to risk in the new tank with this behavior &
unexplained fish death. I clearly don't want to risk this Goby either
especially after the heartbreaking loss of first one then the second Banggai. I
have read I think most of the Goby FAQs and those others which seemed most
relevant currently (recently) and a great many others in my year and a half of
reefing. So, what to do about my Goby?
<Mmm, for one, read re the ping-pong issue re supplementing both alkalinity and
biominerals... do this in new water for change-outs... consider cutting the
"Kalk habit"... and the possibility of adding vitamins to live foods to entice
the Gobiodon>
Please do let me know if I can add further information at all & I look forward
to your advice
Cheers
Chris
P.S If there is a footer on this email with my work details please delete before
posting (sometime it shows up, others not)
Many thanks.
<Will do. Cheers, Bob Fenner, in not-so-sunny S. Cal.>
Stow away jackpot!
Hi Bob!
I thought I could ask you a question about a stow away that I recently picked up
from Tropicorium from Romulus MI. I purchased a 4-5 in. Acropora tan with white
tips about two weeks ago. Along for the ride was quite a few critters. I first
noticed a couple of large crabs. One "fuzzy" brown with blue eyes and
another solid white with black eyes. No big deal, they don't seem to be damaging
the coral so I left them in. After a closer look with a flashlight at lights out
I noticed not two crabs but 7, and a very small clown goby. I feel I got more
than I bargained for. My question is how can I get my clown goby to feed. I have
tried to use prime reef in a dropper above the coral, but the goby refuses to
leave the branches. He's a beautiful fish and I would like hate to lose it to
starvation. Any ideas?
<Try frozen Mysis shrimp and/or Seawater Zooplankton. Also, keep a close eye
on that coral and the crabs.>
Best Wishes! Brad Stefanko
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Clown Goby Chow...
Happy Holidays Wet Web Crew!
<And a great holiday season to you and yours! Scott F. with you here
tonight!>
Just a quick question... I think I've decided on the fish for my new 20G reef.
I'm thinking 2 Purple Firefish and 2 Clown Gobies.
<Be careful with the Firefish. Many times, when placed in pairs or groups,
one fish will dominate the other(s), until he or she is the only one left!
Unless you obtain a true mated pair (rare), or have a large tank with lots of
rockwork to separate the fishes' territories, I'd keep one to a tank..>
It has been cycled with L/R for about 3 weeks now. However a week and a half ago
I found a really skinny Mandarin at the pet store, so I brought him home. Put
him in the tank and he quickly became the fattest mandarin I have ever seen.
<Great to hear that. A mandarin that eats is a joy to behold!>
So I took him back hoping he would have a better chance of surviving long enough
to go to a new home.
I say this because now that I've been digging through your FAQ's on clown gobies
I've seen that they too like to munch on critters in the substrate. Do you think
the Mandarin would have depleted the clown gobies munchies? Or will he be fine
with frozen Mysis and the likes?
<I think that it's more common to have a clown goby eat frozen and other
prepared foods, such as Mysis, than it would be for a mandarin to do the same.
You are right, though, as far as 'pod eating fishes, such as mandarins: In a
small tank (I mean anything under 50 gallons), it would be problematic to have
more than one to a tank, as the 'pod and infauna population simply would not be
sufficient.>
Merry Christmas if we don't speak again before! Melinda
<Same to you, and I'll throw in a Happy New Year at no extra charge!>
Clown/Goby Feeding and Majano questions
Greetings!
Three days ago, I added my first fish tenants to their new 30g home after five
long weeks of cycling. The True Percula and Citron Goby appear to be
doing well, although the goby has adopted the upper heater suction cup as its
perch, causing my wife to question the wisdom of my fish choice. The
only anomalous reading thus far was a brief ammonia spike of 0.2 after 24 hours,
which was remedied by a 3g water change. I was unable to get either fish to eat
flakes or pellets, and they let the Formula 1 frozen food sink to the
bottom. The LFS has brine shrimp, but I now know they are bereft of
nutrition. I did, however, seem to hit pay dirt with Sweetwater
Zooplankton. Both fish have nibbled at this (and my peppermint shrimp
happily eat the rest). My question is this: is zooplankton
a sufficient nutrient source for these fish? I would still like to
try Mysis shrimp, but have not yet purchased them. I am more
concerned about the goby, since I have seen it attempt to eat much less than the
clown. < The plankton alone will not be sufficient
although it is a very good food. Try to give them a varied diet with
as many different foods as possible. They should take flakes after
awhile but just be patient.>
Next question: I have a Majano problem that is primarily located on one piece of
LR (about 2-3 pounds out of about 30 pounds total). In addition to
the Majano, I have noticed some tiny Aiptasia growing, as well. Unfortunately,
my shrimp are altogether uninterested in helping me with the
Aiptasia. Would it be feasible to pull the piece of rock, nuke the
small polyp Majano and Aiptasia with the hot Kalk mixture, rinse with my
heated/aerated change water, and return to the tank? Any idea how
long it would take for those suckers to drop off? Would the ensuing
die-off be too great a bioload for my new inhabitants? Should I just
chuck the piece of rock in question? There are about 3-4 of each type
of pest located elsewhere in the tank, but at least 30 Majano on this rock and
about a dozen Aiptasia. <Make sure your shrimp are actual
peppermints and not camels which are peppermint look-alikes. If these
are peppermints they should eat the Aiptasia in time. You can find
everything you need to know in the Majano here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/otherpstanemfaqs.htm
Best regards, Cody.>
Thank you again for all your assistance thus far.
JPM
Clown Gobies
Dear WW Media, <Hi Laurie, MacL here with you tonight>
Recently I purchased a green clown goby and a yellow goby for my 150 gallon tank
and have had both fish in quarantine for the last 2 weeks. The yellow
is eating well and will accept baby live brine (enriched with Selcon),
Cyclop-eeze, Sweetwater zooplankton, and tiny pieces of frozen formula one. It
is hard to tell, but I think the green goby is only eating the baby brine.
<Not good unless the baby brine has been supplemented with Zoë or Selcon or
something similar. Brine shrimp alone doesn't have much nutrition.> Its
abdomen is sunken (it arrived that way) and I am concerned that it might not be
getting enough to eat. <It might also possibly have some type of intestinal
worm or even possibly cyanide. I hope not but its always important to pick a
fish that is healthy looking at the store. Sorry didn't mean to sound like I was
preaching.> Theoretically, will the baby brine be enough to help
it gain back some weight?...Or, is there another food you would suggest trying?
<I'd try to get some pods or at least soak the baby brine with some Zoë or
Selcon or some other type of vitamin supplement.> I have read that
copepods are a big part of this fish's natural diet---aside from spending a
large fortune to ship in some ocean plankton is there any other good copepod
substitutes? <You can get copepods in various places. Many stores online sell
them and you can find Mysis most places. Your local pet store might be
cultivating them. I know people who put pieces of PVC in their tank for the pods
to breed. Then they close off both side pull it out of the tank and use it to
seed other peoples tanks.> Originally when I set up my Q-tank I added a small
live rock from the main tank to help establish the bacterial bed. Along with the
rock came a few Mysis(?) shrimp that resided in the main tank. <Great
copepods!> These seem to be the perfect size (2xs the size of new
hatched brine) for the goby's little mouth but I haven't notice it eat any. I
did try live brine adults but these were too big--- neither goby attempted to
eat them. The last few days I have tried adding the baby brine three times a day
(without fouling the Q-tank) to give the goby a longer foraging time since after
a few hours the numbers of brine floating about decreases. To complicate matters
I have noticed a few patches of its skin that seem bleached/discolored and
possibly a white spot or two today. It still is eating though.
<This doesn't sound good. It might be ich, the vitamins should help this as
well.> Unfortunately, I moved the yellow goby to the main tank a day ago in
hopes to reduce competition for food. The yellow goby has no spots, looks very
healthy, and it is eating ok in its new environment. Assuming that these fish
are pretty resistant to ich could I possibly have infected my main tank?
<Possibly but you might not have as well if its showing no signs of
infection. Its always best to do a full quarantine but I do understand your
thinking on this.> After watching the behaviors of both fish I would
recommend to anyone interested in clown gobies to pick the yellow species over
the green since they seem hardier, more outgoing, and are more likely to move
about in the open. I have a 2 year old mandarin in the main tank which eats baby
brine etc. and despite what the books say it seems much hardier than clown
gobies. <I'm betting your mandarin is also eating Mysis and other pods in
your rocks. Good luck, MacL>
Thank you,
Laurie
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