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FAQs about Canister, Cartridge Filters For Marine Systems, Fluval
Models Related Articles:
Physical Filtration, Review of the
ViaAqua Canister Filter, Related
FAQs: Canister Filters 1,
Canister Filters 2, Canister Filters
3, Outside Power Filters, &
FAQs on: Rationale/Use,
Placement, Media,
Plumbing, Maintenance,
Troubleshooting/Repair, By Manufacturer:
Eheim, Other Brands, |
Hagen is the manufacturer:
http://www.hagen.com/ Fluvals:
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/
sub_category_psubtype.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=107& PSUBCAT=10726 |
Fluval 404 Troubles 10/27/08 Dear Crew, <Reva.> I
really enjoy your site, thank you! <Thank you!> My question is one
that I thought would be simple to find the answer to on the web, but no
such luck so far. I hope that you all can help me here. I sold an
aquarium today to a very excited young married couple. It was the whole
works - 72 gallon bow front with stand, gravel, power heads, undergravel
filter, plants and decorations, extra lights assorted chemicals, breeder
tanks, etc. Basically, all they needed to do was set it up and add fish
(you'll see why this matters in a minute). Included was a Fluval 404
canister filter. <Okay.> I have never had any problems with this
filter. The wife called me an hour or 2 ago to tell me that they were
setting everything up and couldn't get the filter to run. No noise at
all. I walked her through the steps to prime it, still nothing. Is there
anything that I can do to troubleshoot this? <The magnet/rotor in the
canister likely just needs to be taken out and cleaned with some
vinegar. Many times these smaller motors can run just fine until
unplugged, then any buildup on the magnet keeps the thing from
restarting.> It honestly sounds as if the motor is gone, but it
worked as of last Friday when I tore the tank down. <Possibly the
priming you mention, likely just needing a cleaning. These motors rarely
just go kaput.> I feel awful. I have searched to see if I can order a
new motor head - nothing. I really don't want to buy them a new filter.
They paid me $350 for the whole setup, but I want to make this as right
as I possibly can without essentially buying them another new filter.
Any ideas or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you!
Reva <Welcome, Scott V.>
Filtration on new Marine tank. 8/12/07 Hi Bob, Jay
here from the UK. <Howdy!> Top website, the best of its kind.
<Thanks> I am in the process of setting up a 100 gallon FOWLR tank
and was hoping that I could ask you a question with regards to doing so?
<Shore> I have a Juwel Vision 450 with a Fluval FX5 canister filter,
and a? Aqua Medics TurboFlotor 1000 Multi SL protein skimmer, I also
plan to add a 3+ inch DSB and 100lbs of live rock and a few suitable
fish and some invertebrates. My question is that the Juwel came with a
built in 2 stage biological filtration system that contains the
following: 1. Filter wool pad 2. Active carbon sponge 3.
Nitrite removal sponge 4. Ammonia removal sponge 5. Coarse filter
sponge 6. Fine filter sponge The above in built filter system is
run via a 1000 litre per hour power head, would you leave this filter
system in place or would you remove it to gain more space in the tank
and go with the Fluval FX5? <I would leave all in for now... but
likely gravitate to not using chemical filtrants here in time (as the
system becomes more established in the next few months) to replacing all
but the coarse filter media... sandwiching this about a permanent
"to-hypoxic" media like Siporax or Ehfi-Mech or such (one-time
purchase)... This to get you what this filter can do practically... and
not use up your time for maintenance and flow rate...> I do not want
to add a sump at present as drilling my tank will invalidate my 3 year
warranty, I would really appreciate your opinion on this. <A good
idea to ask about... other fellow marine hobbyists there/UK on the
various BBs and hobby club groups... what they've done... Myself, I
would proceed with having the tank drilled...> Thanks very much
Jay PS. I have just received your book in the post, what I have read
so far is very good indeed, cant wait to read the rest. <Oh to have
had the focus of J.K. Rowling! Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Fluval 404 bubbles 7/31/05 I recently purchased a NEW Fluval 404
on 6/27/05, I fought with it for 1 month adding new hoses, O rings, etc.
even reshaping the hoses, and getting down to shaking the canister on a
regular basis to release air. My problem is that every 30 min to 1 hour
My Fluval release a large amount of micro bubbles into the tank. I have
tried everything that HAGEN has asked me to do. I am running the Fluval
only no airstones or any thing else in the tank. It is a salt water
new set up (2mos old) 40gl with live sand and rock. I returned the
Fluval and the store replaced it with a new one. It has been running for
2 days. and I still get a rush of micro bubbles. Question: is there a
flaw in this design. or am I getting a bad batch? <Likely there is a
simple, poor/incomplete connection twixt a hard plumbing fitting and the
flexible hose on the intake side...> Do you know of any other
filter similar to the Fluval 404 that I can use that will no create this
problem? <... Please read here:
http://www.google.com/custom?q=canister+filters&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com>
I really do not want to use the Fluval anymore if the bubbles are
always going to be there. PLEASE ADVISE Pam <... as you will
find, there are techniques for determining the source of entrained
air... I would turn off, drain the unit, disassemble the intake side
line... re-fit with a bit of silicone grease, making sure the flexible
tubing is pushed on entirely over the hard plastic fittings. Bob Fenner>
Canister Filter Media - 09/29/05 Hello, <<Howdy>> I have
a Fluval 204 canister filter for a marine tank and am wondering what is
the best filter media to put in the three baskets. Also I have a small
anemone with one tiny clownfish, would it be alright if I put another
clownfish in the tank. <<Hmm... Would help to know a bit more about
your tank. I don't really care for canister filters as most folks tend
to plug them in and "forget about 'em." But that said... If you have
live rock in your system and you're not intending the canister for
biological filtration, I would say load it up with carbon which you
should give a freshwater rinse weekly and change part/all out an a
monthly basis. An alternative would be to use cut-up
Poly-Filter...again giving a weekly freshwater rinse and changing out as
required. As for the clown... You could likely add another (again, I
don't have enough info on your system), but be aware they don't always
"pair up" just because you put two of them together.>> From Sam
<<Regards, EricR>>
Fluval 404 - 101 11/7/05 Hi,
<Howdy> I have a Fluval 404 that I got with an entire tank set up and
an orphaned turtle that a couple left behind when they skipped town.
<Scumbies, or at least an element of scumbaggish behavior> I can get
the water flowing only when I use the self primer, the pump doesn't seem
to be working. I cleaned everything using the manual for instruction.
<Not an uncommon problem...> Does the impeller spin 360 degrees?
<Yep> I seems to be built to turn back and forth versus spinning like
a propeller. <...> Do I have to purchase a new unit? <Not
likely... just have to "clear" the air in the present one> Will the
turtle (Pig Nose turtle - water species) be OK with no filter for a
while? <Not a good idea... stinky...> Please Help! Mark
<Please read here re getting the air out of the Fluval:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm and the linked files
above. There are a few techniques to "starting" (i.e. filling) these
canister filters with water... and yours may run better being lowered...
below the tank... at least to exclude air initially. Once you do it, you
won't forget how. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Re: Fluval 404 11/9/05
Bob, <Mark> I finally got it going by filling the input hose with
water, this enable the water to "rush" into the canister. <Ah, good!>
Thanks for responding to my questions......... and the turtle is really
cool!!! <Great. Life to you. Bob Fenner> Fluval 403
Replacement Parts - 11/27/2005 You have a tremendous website.
<Thank you. Tremendous work has gone into it.> I have two Fluval 403
filters. I gave away all my fish last year (they had out-grown the
aquarium) and took down my aquarium. I recently set it back up. The
o-rings are dried, cracked and leaking. I need new o-rings for the
Fluval 403 filters. I have looked everywhere but can't find these
o-rings. Do you know where I can get o-rings for the Fluval 403 filter?
<I would contact the manufacturer for these; if they can't get them to
you, they'll likely be able to tell you who can in your area. Try this
site:
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/index.html .> Thank you. -Donald
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Oops! Fluval 403 & Great
website! De John - 11/28/05 I have two Fluval 403 filters.
I gave away all my fish last year (they had out-grown the aquarium) and
took down my aquarium. I recently set it back up. The o-rings are
dried, cracked and leaking. I need new o-rings for the Fluval 403
filters. I have looked everywhere but can't find these o-rings. Do you
know where I can get o-rings for the Fluval 403 filter? Thank you.
Donald <Hi Donald. This is a common problem that can be mitigated by
keeping the o-rings lubricated, whether in use or not. I use silicone
grease. For replacements, I would recommend calling the manufacturer -
web searches came up dry for me also. Good luck, John> <<Try
changing your search terms, I found this in about five seconds using
"Fluval 403", then on the very first website I hit, I searched on
"gasket", got this:
http://www.thatpetplace.com/MainPro/shopay00.aspx. I'd give
this place a call, they carry the O-rings for most other Fluvals, they
might be able to get a hold of this one (should be able to). Marina>>
Filter Question, SW, Can. 12/28/06 <Hey Ricky,
JustinN with you today> You guys have an awesome website and I have
been reading articles from your site for the past two years. Today is
my first time asking questions. <Thank you for the kind
words, is a collaborative effort.> 1) I have a 125 gallon saltwater
tank fish only with live rocks. Now I have a Naso and a Juvenile Queen
Angel, four cleaner shrimps, and some blue-leg helmet crab. I also have
a protein skimmer, UV, an Eheim 2229 wet/dry filter, a magnum 350
canister filter. Now I want to replace the 350 canister filter to a
FLUVAL FX 5 canister filter because the FX5 can clean up to 400 gallon
tank. Do you think this is a good idea? Do you think this would lower
the nitrate level? <Honestly, I think it would be an unnecessary
step. How often are you cleaning out all the media in these filtration
devices? Without proper and thorough maintenance, both wet/dry filters
and canister filters can become 'nitrate farms', built up with so much
tank gunk that the tank can't handle the load. Thoroughly cleaning the
canister filter every water change, and cleaning out half the bioballs
at the same time should help some. If I may ask, how much rock do you
have in this tank? If you have less than 80-100 pounds of rock
currently, you would see positive results from increasing this amount.
Hope this helps! -JustinN> Thank you and I really appreciate if you
could get back to me. Ricky Re: Filter Question
12/28/06 Thank you for your answers. Your answer helped me save
my money. I know the FX5 is not cheap. I do water change every two
weeks (20 gallon) using purified water. I clean my filter every
month. The live rocks are less than 80 pounds (70 LBS). But if I add
more rocks to the tank, there won't be enough room for my fish to swim
around. I have 3 power heads. One of them is maxi-jet 1200. The other
two are SEIO super-flow 1500. My nitrate right now is about 50(SALIFERT
test kit). Can I add any more fish in there? I lost 2 ACHILLES tang
in two weeks. One died in the quarantine tank. What kind fish will
be the better choice? THANK YOU SO MUCH!! <Well, Ricky, I think
you'll be ok if you clean the filters a bit more diligently, and do so
at every water change. You should also consider doing weekly water
changes until you get the nitrates under control. Once your nitrates are
under control, I think you'll be ok to add a few more small fish. Hope
this helps! -JustinN>
Broken Fluval Help! I
have spent this afternoon changing my 37 gallon tank to a 75 gallon
tank. All the live sand, rocks, and fish are in the new tank. I went to
turn on my Fluval filter and it wouldn't work. I took it to the sink to
check it out and the whole thing smells and the foam filters are smoke
black color. The bio max (biological filters) smell and have the black
water deposits. It looks like the pump had quit early and I didn't know
it and it got skunky. Should I throw away the bio max balls? <You can
probably clean these up with a soak in bleach and then a long rinse in
tapwater.> Should I get new foam filters or clean the old ones with
Clorox? <I would probably just toss these.> I think my motor died
on the unit. <Me too!> How long will the fish be ok without a
filter? <If this is all you have (I hope that is not the case) they
will last perhaps a day before ammonia poisoning or lack of oxygen gets
them.> Should I put my protein skimmer on the new tank, right away?
<Yes> Should I put the power head in the tank right away? <Yes>
The only thing I have hooked now is the heater. Thanks, Cheryl
<Good luck! -Steven Pro>Filtration Problems II Thank
You so much for your reply, and so prompt :-) ! I've never heard of
Trickle Filters. Where could I find these? <If you go to Yahoo or
Google or some other search engine, you will get a lot of hits on
trickle filtration. Trickle filters are a type of wet/dry, biological
filtration. These are excellent, but unlikely to work with your setup
due to space constraints. You would also need to have your tank drilled
for water to overflow to the trickle filter.> Ah, sounds like sound
advice. It's not just the brand of filter, it's not enough filters!
<Yes> I shall save up and add another. Once a month would be heaven
:-) I should never have to change the cylinders that the bacteria grow
on, correct? <Correct, the ceramic-like rings that the Fluval comes
with never needs replaced. After prolonged use you may want to rinse
them in some tank water to dislodge any debris.> Just rinse the
sponges and change the floss? <Yes, but I would use the sponges,
ceramic rings, and activated carbon, perhaps some ammonia removing
media, instead of the filter floss.> I'm learning a lot and I
appreciate the time spent, as I know you people have got to be so busy.
<Oh, we do get swamped some days, but our crew is large enough now to
handle most of the mail.> My Best ~Robyn~ Happy Holidays! <And you
too! -Steven Pro> - Canning the Canisters - Hi, I need
help <Ok, I will do my best. JasonC here at your service.> First I
have a 90g tank that is set up for a year know. I have a Fluval 404, and
204 set up on it. I am know starting to set it up for a reef. I just
purchased a wet / dry. I was told that instead of getting a protein
skimmer, I can use the ecosystem hang on 60. Would you recommend going
that way? <I would can the wet/dry and do both the Ecosystem and the
skimmer.> If its ok what is the best way to set up both systems, and
removing the Fluvals? <Go slowly.> My second question is ever since I
took my 2 lion fish, and snow flake eel out of the tank and replaced
them with 2 maroon clowns, 1 coral beauty, and a cardinal fish. I also
have 2 sea anemones for the clowns. I have noticed that there is a lot
of air bubbles forming on the bottom of my tank. <Perhaps that new
wet/dry filter... I'd suspect that much more than the mix of fish.> Plus
I have also added a JBJ lighting system. I have noticed that I have more
algae growing on the bottom of my tank. <Stands to reason that this is a
result of that new lighting.> Thank You, Chris <Cheers, J --
> Media Replacement And Skimmer Choices? Gracias sir!
<No problem!> "Do a little research on the WWM site about these
fishes" I'm in there now...digging ;). As far as the foam media in both
the H.O.T. and Fluval is once a month "regular", I see that everyone
pretty much agrees on once a month for the carbon but could the same be
said for the foam media as well? <Good question! I really like to get
in the habit of weekly cleanings on these sponges. You will be amazed at
the amount of yucky stuff that accumulates in 'em after just a few days,
then breaks down. It's a bit of a pain to change them so often- but a
great habit!> As far as the skimmer is concerned I looked at my tank
today and then looked at the skimmer and said to myself "hmmmm that
thing is a bit small isn't it" but if I can get my $75 out of it for a
while and upgrade in the future I think that's probably what I'll do.
Thanx again. Kevin <Well, Kevin- you could nurse along a second-rate
skimmer for a while...But if it were me- I'd curse and kick and scream
and then buy a better skimmer from the start...Better off in the long
run, IMO! Good luck! Scott F> Filters and RO/DI Hi guys
hope you are well. I need some advice again please. I currently have a
100g reef tank with live sand, live rock, and a Fluval 404. I have
recently purchased a 125 g tank with a 20 g sump. Should I get rid of
the Fluval 404 and can I utilize instead by making new salt water mixes
and top off water? Do I have to have a RO/DI filter? <Hi Werner, the
Fluval is a great piece of equipment, if you keep it clean.
Personally, I am kinda lazy and would not give the device the attention
it needs so I don't these types of filters. I would think it would work
well in the new mix solution. Or, you could use it as a carbon only
container. As far at RO/DI, I would have the source (tap) water
checked to see how far out of whack it is. Then if there are high
concentrations of stuff you don't want, use the RO/DI (or just DI,
higher output/less waste. Hope the helps, Don> Werner
Fluval burning out... Dear WWM, There is a problem that I
often have with my powerheads propeller. <FYI, it's called an
impeller. A propeller is something that goes on a plane :) > If I
unplug it and it stops, probably half of the time it will not start up
properly the next time. The only method I can come up with is to poke
at it with the end of a pencil and eventually it will start up. The
problem I am having now has to do with a Fluval 303 canister filter. I
have it set up properly (as far as I can tell, I bought it on eBay so
there are no directions) but the propeller will not start. There is
definitely power, the propeller will kind of slowly meander back and
forth, only covering about 40% of the total circle it is supposed to do
before reversing and going back the other way. I have tried jump
starting it with a wire, but it will not keep going. It sometimes will
start zipping around the full circle for a few seconds but then will
stall out. I'm not really sure what to do, any advice would be
appreciated. <Sounds like the pump itself and not the impeller. A
quick check to see if your impeller is broken is to hold it by the
magnet part and try to spin the blades. They should only turn 90-180
degrees, and not all the way around freely. If this is the case, the
impeller is broken. Try cleaning out the impeller chamber as well as the
impeller itself and try to restart it. It is likely that the motor is on
its way out so you may want to contact Hagen or your LFS for a
replacement motor. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks, Scott -
Canister Filter, Replace or Not - Hi crew, My Fluval
Canister filter packed in last night, now ideally I would like to spend
more time trawling your pages for advice but I am concerned that the
loss of the canister will effect my water and I may not have that time.
Its a 50g tank with 2 fish (Damsel and Clown) plus some crabs and
snails, I also have some mushrooms and xenia. Its been running for 2
years. My current "filtration" set up without the Fluval Canister is
Aqua C Remora (Maxi Jet 1200) 2 Maxi Jet 1000 opposing powerheads
(breaking surface) Lots of live rock in tank I perform a water
change every second week 10% approx) My questions, what would you
recommend I replace the Fluval with, another canister filter? <If you
can get one, perhaps an Eheim, but the Fluvals are good products.>
Should I be looking at something else? <Hmm...> Should I be rushing
out to buy a replacement? <I wouldn't... I think your tank can run the
way it is provided that "lots" of live rocks means about one pound per
gallon. The canister filter certainly provides benefit, but you might
make up for its loss with more regular water changes, perhaps 5% a
week.> Thanks in advance John <Cheers, J-- > Fluval
fix Hi Wondered if you could help. I have a Fluval 304
about 4 yrs old. It always ran fine until the other day. I clean it
once a month basically replace the carbon and rinse the foam. I use it
more for chemical filtration as I have a Bio-Wheel and Aquaclear on the
tank as well. I also like it because of the flow it gives me as well.
Anyway I stripped it down and put it back together as I have done a
hundred times. I put it back under the tank. When I came home at lunch
the following day the water in the tank was down about 1 1/2" ( its a
65g by the way). I thought it was the tank but after some investigation
I discovered it was leaking from the filter. There was a steady drip of
water running down from the blue handles on either side. I thought it
might be because I had filled up the baskets to the top with some carbon
and pre-filter material more than is usually in there and it was
restricting the flow of the water through the filter in some way. I took
out the extra material and returned it to how it was before but this
didn't fix it. I then thought it might be the seal for the motor housing
so I have just run down to the LFS and replaced that but that isn't
working either. I will try to describe where the water is coming
from. Where the two parts lock together all the way around there is
a kind of bulge well on the part where the handles are it kinda flares
out and creates a well next to the handle. At the top of these wells
there are small holes and that is where the water comes from. The
canister part of the filter not the motor housing. I hope you understand
and can either help me or let me know who can. Thanks PS - I
sent in a question about 3 weeks ago and didn't get an answer. No biggie
I solved that problem now but would really appreciate an answer to this.
< I had a guy at work with a similar problem and he asked me to take a
look at it. I think the problem is with a dried out O ring that seals
the upper and lower pieces together. I never got a chance to try it but
I think if you grease the O ring with a white grease or even try some
petroleum jelly you may have some luck. I know that he had called the
company rep and got no answers and I never talked to him again to see
how it turned out. I think he just bought a new filter from a different
company.-Chuck> Dean K. Smith Re: Leaking filter, FW
Thanks for the prompt answer. I replaced the seal with a new one
yesterday and the leak slowed down a little but didn't stop. So I
called the company today ( I am in Canada by the way) and as soon as I
told them the problem the told me to return the filter for repair. They
seemed to know exactly what it was and weren't concerned that the filter
was no longer under warranty. Seems to me this must be a common problem
with this filter. Anyway they told me to send it to them at my cost they
will return it in a couple of days at there cost. Hopefully it turns out
well and I am glad I am also running another filter on this tank.
Thanks again for the quick response and keep up the great work with the
site I visit everyday. < When it comes back please write and let me
know what they did. thanks.-Chuck> Re: Leaking filter, FW
Thanks for the prompt answer. I replaced the seal with a new one
yesterday and the leak slowed down a little but didn't stop. So I
called the company today ( I am in Canada by the way) and as soon as I
told them the problem the told me to return the filter for repair. They
seemed to know exactly what it was and weren't concerned that the filter
was no longer under warranty. Seems to me this must be a common problem
with this filter. Anyway they told me to send it to them at my cost they
will return it in a couple of days at there cost. Hopefully it turns out
well and I am glad I am also running another filter on this tank.
Thanks again for the quick response and keep up the great work with the
site I visit everyday. < When it comes back please write and let me
know what they did. thanks.-Chuck> Leaking Fluval Redux
Well I got my filter back today. It all seems to be in order and working
fine. I checked over the filter before I started it up again and it
seems the only difference is a new type of impeller cover. It seems a
better fit and has a fitting that looks like it prevents the impeller
from sliding out of the well ( I had a problem with that). I wish they
had sent a replacement though because it is very difficult to unclip now
and I can see myself maybe breaking it down the road. They stated
that they replaced the impeller, the impeller shaft, the impeller cover
and the O-ring and they also tested the unit for 24 hrs at no extra
charge to me. The impeller was only about 3 months old and the
O-ring was brand new. Overall I would say I am satisfied but not
impressed as I was a little ticked that the turn around time was 6 days
instead of the 3 that they stated when I called them. But anyway the
filter is back on the tank and both the fish and I are enjoying it
working properly Hope this is some help as I visit the site everyday
and would like to give a little back lol < Thank you very much for
the reply. It has helped me and hopefully it will help others checking
the site.-Chuck>
Media for my Fluval Hello again, I
have 2 Fluval 304's for my 50 gallon tank. They are set up as follows:
Fluval 1= Top compartment Kent Nitrate sponge/ Empty Middle
Compartment Bio-max/ Bio-max Bottom Compartment Charcoal/ Bio-max
Fluval 2= Top compartment Bio-max/ Bio-max Middle Compartment
Bio-max/ Bio-max Bottom Compartment Charcoal/ Bio-max I rinse the
Bio-max every 3 months and replace 1/2 of it at 6 month intervals.
I replace the charcoal monthly. I replace 1/2 of the nitrate
sponge every 2 or 3 months. Is there a better suggestion for my Fluvals?
I would appreciate your input. <I would substitute the carbon with
Chemi-pure. It's much much better than carbon and has an extremely low
phosphate content. Regular carbon will leach phosphates. James (Salty
Dog)> Filtration Problem Dear Bob,
The latest problem with my tank (40gal SW w/40lbs LR, anemones, plate
coral and fish/snails/crabs) is one that was completely out of my
control and extremely frustrating. A recent storm temporarily knocked
out my power and upon coming back all my tank equipment returned to
normal except my Fluval canister filter (worst filter ever). After hours
of trying to prime it, along with taking it apart and partially cleaning
it, I have given up. I do have my skimmer running and several power
heads with one of them breaking the water surface. I ordered a new
Tidepool Wet/but it won't arrive for a week. <Try this priming
technique... with the filter cleaned and re-assembled and a fish bucket
for water near, place the intake line in the tank, and gently suck on
the discharge line to start water flowing into the canister (you can put
your hand between the discharge and your mouth if this seems gross)...
after the lines, filter canister are full (water flowing into your fish
bucket), put your thumb over the discharge end and place it in your
tank... then fire the filter over.> My question is will the
powerheads and skimmer (along with 40lbs live rock) provide enough
filtration to keep my tank stabilized for a week and if not do you have
any suggestions. <Maybe, but I'd use the Fluval as well> Thanks
for your time and advice. Chris <Believe me, have spent many an hour
behind, beside, under tanks trying to prime filters, pumps, lines... try
this technique and look into the union valves made by Eheim going
forward (will work on Fluval, other flexible tubing). Expensive, but one
time purchase... and you won't have this priming problem again... Bob
Fenner> Trials and tribulations Dear Bob, Sorry for
the length, I have had a FO show tank (6'l x 30"d x 24"w about 200 gals)
for over 6 years running a wet/dry, Berlin xl w/ ozone, and a Fluval
404. I had not lost a fish in almost two years though ran high nitrates,
<60. The motor in the Fluval burnt out and I stupidly left the lines in
while deciding on a new filter. <Yikes...> Fish started acting
sick after about 3 weeks, water tested fine. <Anaerobic problems here
are very transient... likely not testable.> After losing a puffer,
lion, a clown trigger (all over 4 yrs old) and two wimples, (a dragon
eel and Naso survived), I started a major over haul and when I drained
the lines left from the Fluval, you knew, rotten eggs-hydrogen sulfide!
<Yes> I spent a month of weekly 25% water changes, and lots of
carbon. I read your articles on LR and added 90lbs, let it cure out for
6 weeks, pulled about 3/4 of my bio-balls over that time, added a "clean
up" crew and let it settle another 3 weeks. Last week I added a hippo
tang who spent two weeks in quarantine, I did not dip. It has ich now,
and I have not been able to catch it to put it back in quarantine to
treat. The Naso and eel seem fine. Should I have skipped the LR and
cleaners since I only plan on keeping fish and now can't treat the tank.
<No, I would have done what you have... and you can still try some of
the fish/cleaners... Likely the Eel won't immediately consume a
Gobiosoma goby (or two)...> The boss (wife) isn't happy about the
tank, which is viewed from both sides, being a large empty water
container without fish for the last couple of months, or the $ I have
spent to get to where I am. Suggestions? Bill <... keep the Boss
happy, use "hidden" funds if need be to purchase some more colorful,
outgoing fishes (maybe a couple more Wimples/Heniochus butterflies...
though I know they'll be much smaller than the ones you lost... and
don't become overly concerned about the apparent ich at this point. It
may well clear up on its own here. Do try adding a vitamin and iodide
preparation to your fishes foods (actually not the Eels foods, but the
Naso, etc... this will help as well. Bob Fenner> Filtration
(canister) Thank you for your help in the past. I had the copper
pipe problem, except for a few snails and one shrimp all is ok now. I am
holding myself back from throwing a Fluval 304 out the window. Power it
does have but durability not sure about. <Not a great product,
though they have gotten tremendously better with changes over the years.
Next time for a canister, look into Eheim> I have been happy with the
canister set up especially with a 3 and 1yr old running around. I have
two tangs, two dwarf angels, 50 lbs LR, usual scavengers, two 402 power
heads and a Prizm skimmer. Tank is a 48 gal pent want to go towards reef
in the future but not sure what direction on the filter would be best
and size has to be a consideration. <Pull water from one end near the
bottom, discharge from other end near the top... And do consider
changing the tubing/length to do this (with Eheim's green of same
diameter is best, sigh) in order to place the Fluval wherever you want
(out of small hands way) like inside a cabinet. Bob Fenner>
Filters Thank you in advance again. I have Fluval 304 that is
definitely dying I can replace from the store it was purchased at for
the same or credit. My question is should I go with the same and I
was thinking of getting a 104 for dedicated bio filtration or one of the
Eheim's that are hard to find in my area unless I mail order it. Do
not know much about them and can they be used the way the Fluval are
with the carbon and so on. It is for a 50 gal pent with two tangs and
two dwarf angels, two 402 power heads, Prizm skimmer and 50 or so pounds
of rock. The Eheim is a vastly superior product of about the same
application. It can be packed with their/others media... I would
mail-order this instead of the replacement Fluval. My further input on
canister filters is posted here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm Bob Fenner>
Marine set-up query Hi Anthony <cheers> Sorry, one last
thing. I checked my 2ft tank for fit in my 4ft cabinet last night and
had bit of a thought upon seeing the sump and Fluval 404 together. Could
I run the 404 intake hose from the sump and use it to pump the sump
water back up to the tank ? <no my friend. This great little filter
was not designed to handle that sort of head pressure. You will need a
dedicated pump for the purpose> Cheers, Scott <kindly, Anthony>
Extra filter pump for Fluval 404 Hi Bob, My present filtering
is done by a Fluval 404. My problem is I moved the Fluval behind a wall
a way from the tank. Now my water flow is very low, due to the distance
tank. <Actually... practically speaking, this distant placement
should make little difference (the pressure in the intake line should
offset the "head" resistance in the discharge side... unless it's a very
long way (tens of feet let's say) or you've reduced the tubing
diameter... Do look for "kinks" in the line... restrictions through
valving, filter media/packing, fittings (I would remove any "spray bars"
for instance.> My question is I just purchased a Mag 7 to help the
Fluval with pumping. Should I place the Mag before the Fluval or after.
I also have a UV sterilizer after the Fluval. The Mag 7 is rated @
700gph and the Fluval is much less. I don't want to damage the Mag or
Fluval with this increase in pump volume. Any help would be great!!
<I am very leery here of telling you to try and do something I myself
would not do... If a centrifugal pump were added, it would be placed
ahead of the restrictive filter (such pumps "push" by design,
engineering, not "pull"... However there may be a real danger in
"popping" the filter canister, O-ring... I would NOT add a pump here...
Let's chat over some other possibilities... like adding a sump/refugium
to your system and using the new pump there... or moving the canister
filter closer to the system... or both. Bob Fenner> Thank you
Jamie Re: Extra filter pump for Fluval 404 Thanks Bob
for the suggestions, I would say I have about 12 - 15 feet of hosing
round trip drop & rise for hoses would be about 3 ½ to 4 feet). <Good
input, once again the height is of little consequence... as the water is
"pushed" as much as it is "pulled" with the lines originating and ending
at the same approximate level (relative to the mass of this planet.>
The intake side, is the Fluval intake pipe that comes from manufact. The
hose travels down the back side of the tank to a bulkhead in the wall. I
live in a Bi-level house with a crawl space under the steps. Fluval & UV
are placed here for easy access. <Oh! The induced drag through the
sterilizer may be significant... could be a/the deciding factor...
possibly might be worth experimenting here... cutting the hose between
the canister and U.V. and inserting the Mag 7 there...> The return
side is configured in a similar manner with another bulk head in the
wall returning to the tank the cleaned water. The new hoses are ¾ ,
<Is this 3/4"? I hope so. Can't make out the tiny print> I think the
Fluval hoses are only ½, which I don't use anymore. I thought maybe the
Mag 7 after the UV to help draw the water back up to the tank.
<Not made to "draw" but to push... hard on the pump... may cavitate
badly if placed to "suck"... Bob Fenner> Thanks Jamie
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