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Change in Blood Red Fire Shrimp Behavior, and leaking Fluval
f' 6/3/13 Sealing tubing/Plumbing 4/8/13 Plumb a Nova Tech Iceprobe to a Canister Filter? (Possibly)
– 09/23/12 Fluval Canister Filter (Chemical Filtration Use) – 08/02/12 FLUVAL LEAKS Hi, The Fluval external filters (403-404 etc) have received a bad rep due to leaks developing around the main O'ring seal. Having experienced this problem myself with my 404 and 403 filters the cause for the leaks is simple: During maintenance when the filter is opened; small scratches occur on the inside rim of the filter housing. These scratches then prevent the main O'ring seal from sealing properly resulting in leaks. SOLUTION: get some 400 wet-dry emery abrasive paper and gently polish the inner upper area of the filter housing in the O'ring seating area. I also apply a little Vaseline to the O'ring to keep it supple with no averse reaction to my fish. I hope this helps you. Stephen <Hello Stephen. That's an interesting tip. Vaseline certainly can help in situations like this, but the use of emery paper is new to me. I would caution aquarists to be real gentle with the abrasion. Obviously, over time the more that's abraded way, the bigger the gap between the two pieces of plastic. Eventually the rubber seal and the Vaseline won't help. It's a toss up whether repairs like this one would be better than simply buying a new o-ring. Cheers, Neale.>
Fluval 303, op., repair
2/15/10 Fluval 404 Troubles 10/27/08 Dear Crew, <Reva.> I really enjoy your site, thank you! <Thank you!> My question is one that I thought would be simple to find the answer to on the web, but no such luck so far. I hope that you all can help me here. I sold an aquarium today to a very excited young married couple. It was the whole works - 72 gallon bow front with stand, gravel, power heads, undergravel filter, plants and decorations, extra lights assorted chemicals, breeder tanks, etc. Basically, all they needed to do was set it up and add fish (you'll see why this matters in a minute). Included was a Fluval 404 canister filter. <Okay.> I have never had any problems with this filter. The wife called me an hour or 2 ago to tell me that they were setting everything up and couldn't get the filter to run. No noise at all. I walked her through the steps to prime it, still nothing. Is there anything that I can do to troubleshoot this? <The magnet/rotor in the canister likely just needs to be taken out and cleaned with some vinegar. Many times these smaller motors can run just fine until unplugged, then any buildup on the magnet keeps the thing from restarting.> It honestly sounds as if the motor is gone, but it worked as of last Friday when I tore the tank down. <Possibly the priming you mention, likely just needing a cleaning. These motors rarely just go kaput.> I feel awful. I have searched to see if I can order a new motor head - nothing. I really don't want to buy them a new filter. They paid me $350 for the whole setup, but I want to make this as right as I possibly can without essentially buying them another new filter. Any ideas or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you! Reva <Welcome, Scott V.> Filtration on new Marine tank. 8/12/07 Hi Bob, Jay here from the UK. <Howdy!> Top website, the best of its kind. <Thanks> I am in the process of setting up a 100 gallon FOWLR tank and was hoping that I could ask you a question with regards to doing so? <Shore> I have a Juwel Vision 450 with a Fluval FX5 canister filter, and a? Aqua Medics TurboFlotor 1000 Multi SL protein skimmer, I also plan to add a 3+ inch DSB and 100lbs of live rock and a few suitable fish and some invertebrates. My question is that the Juwel came with a built in 2 stage biological filtration system that contains the following: 1. Filter wool pad 2. Active carbon sponge 3. Nitrite removal sponge 4. Ammonia removal sponge 5. Coarse filter sponge 6. Fine filter sponge The above in built filter system is run via a 1000 litre per hour power head, would you leave this filter system in place or would you remove it to gain more space in the tank and go with the Fluval FX5? <I would leave all in for now... but likely gravitate to not using chemical filtrants here in time (as the system becomes more established in the next few months) to replacing all but the coarse filter media... sandwiching this about a permanent "to-hypoxic" media like Siporax or Ehfi-Mech or such (one-time purchase)... This to get you what this filter can do practically... and not use up your time for maintenance and flow rate...> I do not want to add a sump at present as drilling my tank will invalidate my 3 year warranty, I would really appreciate your opinion on this. <A good idea to ask about... other fellow marine hobbyists there/UK on the various BBs and hobby club groups... what they've done... Myself, I would proceed with having the tank drilled...> Thanks very much Jay PS. I have just received your book in the post, what I have read so far is very good indeed, cant wait to read the rest. <Oh to have had the focus of J.K. Rowling! Cheers, Bob Fenner> Fluval 404 bubbles 7/31/05 I recently purchased a NEW Fluval 404 on 6/27/05, I fought with it for 1 month adding new hoses, O rings, etc. even reshaping the hoses, and getting down to shaking the canister on a regular basis to release air. My problem is that every 30 min to 1 hour My Fluval release a large amount of micro bubbles into the tank. I have tried everything that HAGEN has asked me to do. I am running the Fluval only no airstones or any thing else in the tank. It is a salt water new set up (2mos old) 40gl with live sand and rock. I returned the Fluval and the store replaced it with a new one. It has been running for 2 days. and I still get a rush of micro bubbles. Question: is there a flaw in this design. or am I getting a bad batch? <Likely there is a simple, poor/incomplete connection twixt a hard plumbing fitting and the flexible hose on the intake side...> Do you know of any other filter similar to the Fluval 404 that I can use that will no create this problem? <... Please read here: http://www.google.com/custom?q=canister+filters&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com> I really do not want to use the Fluval anymore if the bubbles are always going to be there. PLEASE ADVISE Pam <... as you will find, there are techniques for determining the source of entrained air... I would turn off, drain the unit, disassemble the intake side line... re-fit with a bit of silicone grease, making sure the flexible tubing is pushed on entirely over the hard plastic fittings. Bob Fenner> Canister Filter Media - 09/29/05 Hello, <<Howdy>> I have a Fluval 204 canister filter for a marine tank and am wondering what is the best filter media to put in the three baskets. Also I have a small anemone with one tiny clownfish, would it be alright if I put another clownfish in the tank. <<Hmm... Would help to know a bit more about your tank. I don't really care for canister filters as most folks tend to plug them in and "forget about 'em." But that said... If you have live rock in your system and you're not intending the canister for biological filtration, I would say load it up with carbon which you should give a freshwater rinse weekly and change part/all out an a monthly basis. An alternative would be to use cut-up Poly-Filter...again giving a weekly freshwater rinse and changing out as required. As for the clown... You could likely add another (again, I don't have enough info on your system), but be aware they don't always "pair up" just because you put two of them together.>> From Sam <<Regards, EricR>> Fluval 404 - 101 11/7/05 Hi, <Howdy> I have a Fluval
404 that I got with an entire tank set up and an orphaned turtle that a
couple left behind when they skipped town. <Scumbies, or at least an
element of scumbaggish behavior> I can get the water flowing only
when I use the self primer, the pump doesn't seem to be working. I
cleaned everything using the manual for instruction. <Not an
uncommon problem...> Does the impeller spin 360 degrees? <Yep>
I seems to be built to turn back and forth versus spinning like a
propeller. <...> Do I have to purchase a new unit? <Not
likely... just have to "clear" the air in the present one>
Will the turtle (Pig Nose turtle - water species) be OK with no filter
for a while? <Not a good idea... stinky...> Please Help! Mark
<Please read here re getting the air out of the Fluval: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm
and the linked files above. There are a few techniques to
"starting" (i.e. filling) these canister filters with
water... and yours may run better being lowered... below the tank... at
least to exclude air initially. Once you do it, you won't forget
how. Cheers, Bob Fenner> Fluval 403 Replacement Parts - 11/27/2005
You have a tremendous website. <Thank you. Tremendous work has gone
into it.> I have two Fluval 403 filters. I gave away all my fish
last year (they had out-grown the aquarium) and took down my aquarium.
I recently set it back up. The o-rings are dried, cracked and leaking.
I need new o-rings for the Fluval 403 filters. I have looked everywhere
but can't find these o-rings. Do you know where I can get o-rings
for the Fluval 403 filter? <I would contact the manufacturer for
these; if they can't get them to you, they'll likely be able to
tell you who can in your area. Try this site: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/index.html
.> Thank you. -Donald <Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Filter Question, SW, Can.
12/28/06 <Hey Ricky, JustinN with you today> You guys have an
awesome website and I have been reading articles from your site for the
past two years. Today is my first time asking
questions. <Thank you for the kind words, is a
collaborative effort.> 1) I have a 125 gallon saltwater tank fish
only with live rocks. Now I have a Naso and a Juvenile Queen
Angel, four cleaner shrimps, and some blue-leg helmet
crab. I also have a protein skimmer, UV, an Eheim 2229
wet/dry filter, a magnum 350 canister filter. Now I want to
replace the 350 canister filter to a FLUVAL FX 5 canister filter
because the FX5 can clean up to 400 gallon tank. Do you
think this is a good idea? Do you think this would lower the
nitrate level? <Honestly, I think it would be an unnecessary step.
How often are you cleaning out all the media in these filtration
devices? Without proper and thorough maintenance, both wet/dry filters
and canister filters can become 'nitrate farms', built up with
so much tank gunk that the tank can't handle the load. Thoroughly
cleaning the canister filter every water change, and cleaning out half
the bioballs at the same time should help some. If I may ask, how much
rock do you have in this tank? If you have less than 80-100 pounds of
rock currently, you would see positive results from increasing this
amount. Hope this helps! -JustinN> Thank you and I really appreciate
if you could get back to me. Ricky Broken Fluval Help! I have spent this afternoon changing my 37 gallon tank to a 75 gallon tank. All the live sand, rocks, and fish are in the new tank. I went to turn on my Fluval filter and it wouldn't work. I took it to the sink to check it out and the whole thing smells and the foam filters are smoke black color. The bio max (biological filters) smell and have the black water deposits. It looks like the pump had quit early and I didn't know it and it got skunky. Should I throw away the bio max balls? <You can probably clean these up with a soak in bleach and then a long rinse in tapwater.> Should I get new foam filters or clean the old ones with Clorox? <I would probably just toss these.> I think my motor died on the unit. <Me too!> How long will the fish be ok without a filter? <If this is all you have (I hope that is not the case) they will last perhaps a day before ammonia poisoning or lack of oxygen gets them.> Should I put my protein skimmer on the new tank, right away? <Yes> Should I put the power head in the tank right away? <Yes> The only thing I have hooked now is the heater. Thanks, Cheryl <Good luck! -Steven Pro> Filtration Problems II Thank You so much for your reply, and so prompt :-) ! I've never heard of Trickle Filters. Where could I find these? <If you go to Yahoo or Google or some other search engine, you will get a lot of hits on trickle filtration. Trickle filters are a type of wet/dry, biological filtration. These are excellent, but unlikely to work with your setup due to space constraints. You would also need to have your tank drilled for water to overflow to the trickle filter.> Ah, sounds like sound advice. It's not just the brand of filter, it's not enough filters! <Yes> I shall save up and add another. Once a month would be heaven :-) I should never have to change the cylinders that the bacteria grow on, correct? <Correct, the ceramic-like rings that the Fluval comes with never needs replaced. After prolonged use you may want to rinse them in some tank water to dislodge any debris.> Just rinse the sponges and change the floss? <Yes, but I would use the sponges, ceramic rings, and activated carbon, perhaps some ammonia removing media, instead of the filter floss.> I'm learning a lot and I appreciate the time spent, as I know you people have got to be so busy. <Oh, we do get swamped some days, but our crew is large enough now to handle most of the mail.> My Best ~Robyn~ Happy Holidays! <And you too! -Steven Pro> - Canning the Canisters - Hi, I need help <Ok, I will do my best. JasonC here at your service.> First I have a 90g tank that is set up for a year know. I have a Fluval 404, and 204 set up on it. I am know starting to set it up for a reef. I just purchased a wet / dry. I was told that instead of getting a protein skimmer, I can use the ecosystem hang on 60. Would you recommend going that way? <I would can the wet/dry and do both the Ecosystem and the skimmer.> If its ok what is the best way to set up both systems, and removing the Fluvals? <Go slowly.> My second question is ever since I took my 2 lion fish, and snow flake eel out of the tank and replaced them with 2 maroon clowns, 1 coral beauty, and a cardinal fish. I also have 2 sea anemones for the clowns. I have noticed that there is a lot of air bubbles forming on the bottom of my tank. <Perhaps that new wet/dry filter... I'd suspect that much more than the mix of fish.> Plus I have also added a JBJ lighting system. I have noticed that I have more algae growing on the bottom of my tank. <Stands to reason that this is a result of that new lighting.> Thank You, Chris <Cheers, J -- > Media Replacement And Skimmer Choices? Gracias sir! <No problem!> "Do a little research on the WWM site about these fishes" I'm in there now...digging ;). As far as the foam media in both the H.O.T. and Fluval is once a month "regular", I see that everyone pretty much agrees on once a month for the carbon but could the same be said for the foam media as well? <Good question! I really like to get in the habit of weekly cleanings on these sponges. You will be amazed at the amount of yucky stuff that accumulates in 'em after just a few days, then breaks down. It's a bit of a pain to change them so often- but a great habit!> As far as the skimmer is concerned I looked at my tank today and then looked at the skimmer and said to myself "hmmmm that thing is a bit small isn't it" but if I can get my $75 out of it for a while and upgrade in the future I think that's probably what I'll do. Thanx again. Kevin <Well, Kevin- you could nurse along a second-rate skimmer for a while...But if it were me- I'd curse and kick and scream and then buy a better skimmer from the start...Better off in the long run, IMO! Good luck! Scott F> Filters and RO/DI Hi guys hope you are well. I need some advice again please. I currently have a 100g reef tank with live sand, live rock, and a Fluval 404. I have recently purchased a 125 g tank with a 20 g sump. Should I get rid of the Fluval 404 and can I utilize instead by making new salt water mixes and top off water? Do I have to have a RO/DI filter? <Hi Werner, the Fluval is a great piece of equipment, if you keep it clean. Personally, I am kinda lazy and would not give the device the attention it needs so I don't these types of filters. I would think it would work well in the new mix solution. Or, you could use it as a carbon only container. As far at RO/DI, I would have the source (tap) water checked to see how far out of whack it is. Then if there are high concentrations of stuff you don't want, use the RO/DI (or just DI, higher output/less waste. Hope the helps, Don> Werner Fluval burning out... Dear WWM, There is a problem that I often have with my powerheads propeller. <FYI, it's called an impeller. A propeller is something that goes on a plane :) > If I unplug it and it stops, probably half of the time it will not start up properly the next time. The only method I can come up with is to poke at it with the end of a pencil and eventually it will start up. The problem I am having now has to do with a Fluval 303 canister filter. I have it set up properly (as far as I can tell, I bought it on eBay so there are no directions) but the propeller will not start. There is definitely power, the propeller will kind of slowly meander back and forth, only covering about 40% of the total circle it is supposed to do before reversing and going back the other way. I have tried jump starting it with a wire, but it will not keep going. It sometimes will start zipping around the full circle for a few seconds but then will stall out. I'm not really sure what to do, any advice would be appreciated. <Sounds like the pump itself and not the impeller. A quick check to see if your impeller is broken is to hold it by the magnet part and try to spin the blades. They should only turn 90-180 degrees, and not all the way around freely. If this is the case, the impeller is broken. Try cleaning out the impeller chamber as well as the impeller itself and try to restart it. It is likely that the motor is on its way out so you may want to contact Hagen or your LFS for a replacement motor. Good luck! -Kevin> Thanks, Scott - Canister Filter, Replace or Not - Hi crew, My Fluval Canister filter packed in last night, now ideally I would like to spend more time trawling your pages for advice but I am concerned that the loss of the canister will effect my water and I may not have that time. Its a 50g tank with 2 fish (Damsel and Clown) plus some crabs and snails, I also have some mushrooms and xenia. Its been running for 2 years. My current "filtration" set up without the Fluval Canister is Aqua C Remora (Maxi Jet 1200) 2 Maxi Jet 1000 opposing powerheads (breaking surface) Lots of live rock in tank I perform a water change every second week 10% approx) My questions, what would you recommend I replace the Fluval with, another canister filter? <If you can get one, perhaps an Eheim, but the Fluvals are good products.> Should I be looking at something else? <Hmm...> Should I be rushing out to buy a replacement? <I wouldn't... I think your tank can run the way it is provided that "lots" of live rocks means about one pound per gallon. The canister filter certainly provides benefit, but you might make up for its loss with more regular water changes, perhaps 5% a week.> Thanks in advance John <Cheers, J-- > Fluval fix Hi Wondered if you could help. I have a Fluval 304 about 4 yrs old. It always ran fine until the other day. I clean it once a month basically replace the carbon and rinse the foam. I use it more for chemical filtration as I have a Bio-Wheel and Aquaclear on the tank as well. I also like it because of the flow it gives me as well. Anyway I stripped it down and put it back together as I have done a hundred times. I put it back under the tank. When I came home at lunch the following day the water in the tank was down about 1 1/2" ( its a 65g by the way). I thought it was the tank but after some investigation I discovered it was leaking from the filter. There was a steady drip of water running down from the blue handles on either side. I thought it might be because I had filled up the baskets to the top with some carbon and pre-filter material more than is usually in there and it was restricting the flow of the water through the filter in some way. I took out the extra material and returned it to how it was before but this didn't fix it. I then thought it might be the seal for the motor housing so I have just run down to the LFS and replaced that but that isn't working either. I will try to describe where the water is coming from. Where the two parts lock together all the way around there is a kind of bulge well on the part where the handles are it kinda flares out and creates a well next to the handle. At the top of these wells there are small holes and that is where the water comes from. The canister part of the filter not the motor housing. I hope you understand and can either help me or let me know who can. Thanks PS - I sent in a question about 3 weeks ago and didn't get an answer. No biggie I solved that problem now but would really appreciate an answer to this. < I had a guy at work with a similar problem and he asked me to take a look at it. I think the problem is with a dried out O ring that seals the upper and lower pieces together. I never got a chance to try it but I think if you grease the O ring with a white grease or even try some petroleum jelly you may have some luck. I know that he had called the company rep and got no answers and I never talked to him again to see how it turned out. I think he just bought a new filter from a different company.-Chuck> Dean K. Smith Re: Leaking filter, FW Thanks for the prompt answer. I replaced the seal with a new one yesterday and the leak slowed down a little but didn't stop. So I called the company today ( I am in Canada by the way) and as soon as I told them the problem the told me to return the filter for repair. They seemed to know exactly what it was and weren't concerned that the filter was no longer under warranty. Seems to me this must be a common problem with this filter. Anyway they told me to send it to them at my cost they will return it in a couple of days at there cost. Hopefully it turns out well and I am glad I am also running another filter on this tank. Thanks again for the quick response and keep up the great work with the site I visit everyday. < When it comes back please write and let me know what they did. thanks.-Chuck> Re: Leaking filter, FW Thanks for the prompt answer. I replaced the seal with a new one yesterday and the leak slowed down a little but didn't stop. So I called the company today ( I am in Canada by the way) and as soon as I told them the problem the told me to return the filter for repair. They seemed to know exactly what it was and weren't concerned that the filter was no longer under warranty. Seems to me this must be a common problem with this filter. Anyway they told me to send it to them at my cost they will return it in a couple of days at there cost. Hopefully it turns out well and I am glad I am also running another filter on this tank. Thanks again for the quick response and keep up the great work with the site I visit everyday. < When it comes back please write and let me know what they did. thanks.-Chuck> Leaking Fluval Redux Well I got my filter back today. It all seems to be in order and working fine. I checked over the filter before I started it up again and it seems the only difference is a new type of impeller cover. It seems a better fit and has a fitting that looks like it prevents the impeller from sliding out of the well ( I had a problem with that). I wish they had sent a replacement though because it is very difficult to unclip now and I can see myself maybe breaking it down the road. They stated that they replaced the impeller, the impeller shaft, the impeller cover and the O-ring and they also tested the unit for 24 hrs at no extra charge to me. The impeller was only about 3 months old and the O-ring was brand new. Overall I would say I am satisfied but not impressed as I was a little ticked that the turn around time was 6 days instead of the 3 that they stated when I called them. But anyway the filter is back on the tank and both the fish and I are enjoying it working properly Hope this is some help as I visit the site everyday and would like to give a little back lol < Thank you very much for the reply. It has helped me and hopefully it will help others checking the site.-Chuck> Media for my Fluval Hello again, I have 2 Fluval 304's for my 50 gallon tank. They are set up as follows: Fluval 1= Top compartment Kent Nitrate sponge/ Empty Middle Compartment Bio-max/ Bio-max Bottom Compartment Charcoal/ Bio-max Fluval 2= Top compartment Bio-max/ Bio-max Middle Compartment Bio-max/ Bio-max Bottom Compartment Charcoal/ Bio-max I rinse the Bio-max every 3 months and replace 1/2 of it at 6 month intervals. I replace the charcoal monthly. I replace 1/2 of the nitrate sponge every 2 or 3 months. Is there a better suggestion for my Fluvals? I would appreciate your input. <I would substitute the carbon with Chemi-pure. It's much much better than carbon and has an extremely low phosphate content. Regular carbon will leach phosphates. James (Salty Dog)> Filtration Problem Dear Bob, The latest problem with my tank (40gal SW w/40lbs LR, anemones, plate coral and fish/snails/crabs) is one that was completely out of my control and extremely frustrating. A recent storm temporarily knocked out my power and upon coming back all my tank equipment returned to normal except my Fluval canister filter (worst filter ever). After hours of trying to prime it, along with taking it apart and partially cleaning it, I have given up. I do have my skimmer running and several power heads with one of them breaking the water surface. I ordered a new Tidepool Wet/but it won't arrive for a week. <Try this priming technique... with the filter cleaned and re-assembled and a fish bucket for water near, place the intake line in the tank, and gently suck on the discharge line to start water flowing into the canister (you can put your hand between the discharge and your mouth if this seems gross)... after the lines, filter canister are full (water flowing into your fish bucket), put your thumb over the discharge end and place it in your tank... then fire the filter over.> My question is will the powerheads and skimmer (along with 40lbs live rock) provide enough filtration to keep my tank stabilized for a week and if not do you have any suggestions. <Maybe, but I'd use the Fluval as well> Thanks for your time and advice. Chris <Believe me, have spent many an hour behind, beside, under tanks trying to prime filters, pumps, lines... try this technique and look into the union valves made by Eheim going forward (will work on Fluval, other flexible tubing). Expensive, but one time purchase... and you won't have this priming problem again... Bob Fenner> Trials and tribulations Dear Bob, Sorry for the length, I have had a FO show tank (6'l x 30"d x 24"w about 200 gals) for over 6 years running a wet/dry, Berlin xl w/ ozone, and a Fluval 404. I had not lost a fish in almost two years though ran high nitrates, <60. The motor in the Fluval burnt out and I stupidly left the lines in while deciding on a new filter. <Yikes...> Fish started acting sick after about 3 weeks, water tested fine. <Anaerobic problems here are very transient... likely not testable.> After losing a puffer, lion, a clown trigger (all over 4 yrs old) and two wimples, (a dragon eel and Naso survived), I started a major over haul and when I drained the lines left from the Fluval, you knew, rotten eggs-hydrogen sulfide! <Yes> I spent a month of weekly 25% water changes, and lots of carbon. I read your articles on LR and added 90lbs, let it cure out for 6 weeks, pulled about 3/4 of my bio-balls over that time, added a "clean up" crew and let it settle another 3 weeks. Last week I added a hippo tang who spent two weeks in quarantine, I did not dip. It has ich now, and I have not been able to catch it to put it back in quarantine to treat. The Naso and eel seem fine. Should I have skipped the LR and cleaners since I only plan on keeping fish and now can't treat the tank. <No, I would have done what you have... and you can still try some of the fish/cleaners... Likely the Eel won't immediately consume a Gobiosoma goby (or two)...> The boss (wife) isn't happy about the tank, which is viewed from both sides, being a large empty water container without fish for the last couple of months, or the $ I have spent to get to where I am. Suggestions? Bill <... keep the Boss happy, use "hidden" funds if need be to purchase some more colorful, outgoing fishes (maybe a couple more Wimples/Heniochus butterflies... though I know they'll be much smaller than the ones you lost... and don't become overly concerned about the apparent ich at this point. It may well clear up on its own here. Do try adding a vitamin and iodide preparation to your fishes foods (actually not the Eels foods, but the Naso, etc... this will help as well. Bob Fenner> Filtration (canister) Thank you for your help in the past. I had the copper pipe problem, except for a few snails and one shrimp all is ok now. I am holding myself back from throwing a Fluval 304 out the window. Power it does have but durability not sure about. <Not a great product, though they have gotten tremendously better with changes over the years. Next time for a canister, look into Eheim> I have been happy with the canister set up especially with a 3 and 1yr old running around. I have two tangs, two dwarf angels, 50 lbs LR, usual scavengers, two 402 power heads and a Prizm skimmer. Tank is a 48 gal pent want to go towards reef in the future but not sure what direction on the filter would be best and size has to be a consideration. <Pull water from one end near the bottom, discharge from other end near the top... And do consider changing the tubing/length to do this (with Eheim's green of same diameter is best, sigh) in order to place the Fluval wherever you want (out of small hands way) like inside a cabinet. Bob Fenner> Filters Thank you in advance again. I have Fluval 304 that is definitely dying I can replace from the store it was purchased at for the same or credit. My question is should I go with the same and I was thinking of getting a 104 for dedicated bio filtration or one of the Eheim's that are hard to find in my area unless I mail order it. Do not know much about them and can they be used the way the Fluval are with the carbon and so on. It is for a 50 gal pent with two tangs and two dwarf angels, two 402 power heads, Prizm skimmer and 50 or so pounds of rock. The Eheim is a vastly superior product of about the same application. It can be packed with their/others media... I would mail-order this instead of the replacement Fluval. My further input on canister filters is posted here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcanistfltfaqs.htm Bob Fenner> Marine set-up query Hi Anthony <cheers> Sorry, one last thing. I checked my 2ft tank for fit in my 4ft cabinet last night and had bit of a thought upon seeing the sump and Fluval 404 together. Could I run the 404 intake hose from the sump and use it to pump the sump water back up to the tank ? <no my friend. This great little filter was not designed to handle that sort of head pressure. You will need a dedicated pump for the purpose> Cheers, Scott <kindly, Anthony> Extra filter pump for Fluval 404 Hi Bob, My present filtering is done by a Fluval 404. My problem is I moved the Fluval behind a wall a way from the tank. Now my water flow is very low, due to the distance tank. <Actually... practically speaking, this distant placement should make little difference (the pressure in the intake line should offset the "head" resistance in the discharge side... unless it's a very long way (tens of feet let's say) or you've reduced the tubing diameter... Do look for "kinks" in the line... restrictions through valving, filter media/packing, fittings (I would remove any "spray bars" for instance.> My question is I just purchased a Mag 7 to help the Fluval with pumping. Should I place the Mag before the Fluval or after. I also have a UV sterilizer after the Fluval. The Mag 7 is rated @ 700gph and the Fluval is much less. I don't want to damage the Mag or Fluval with this increase in pump volume. Any help would be great!! <I am very leery here of telling you to try and do something I myself would not do... If a centrifugal pump were added, it would be placed ahead of the restrictive filter (such pumps "push" by design, engineering, not "pull"... However there may be a real danger in "popping" the filter canister, O-ring... I would NOT add a pump here... Let's chat over some other possibilities... like adding a sump/refugium to your system and using the new pump there... or moving the canister filter closer to the system... or both. Bob Fenner> Thank you Jamie Re: Extra filter pump for Fluval 404 Thanks Bob for the
suggestions, I would say I have about 12 - 15 feet of hosing round trip
drop & rise for hoses would be about 3 ½ to 4 feet).
<Good input, once again the height is of little consequence... as
the water is "pushed" as much as it is "pulled"
with the lines originating and ending at the same approximate level
(relative to the mass of this planet.> The intake side, is the
Fluval intake pipe that comes from manufact. The hose travels down the
back side of the tank to a bulkhead in the wall. I live in a Bi-level
house with a crawl space under the steps. Fluval & UV are placed
here for easy access. <Oh! The induced drag through the
sterilizer may be significant... could be a/the deciding factor...
possibly might be worth experimenting here... cutting the hose between
the canister and U.V. and inserting the Mag 7 there...> The return
side is configured in a similar manner with another bulk head in the
wall returning to the tank the cleaned water. The new hoses are
¾ , <Is this 3/4"? I hope so. Can't make out the
tiny print> I think the Fluval hoses are only ½, which I
don't use anymore. I thought maybe the Mag 7 after the UV to help
draw the water back up to the tank. <Not made to "draw"
but to push... hard on the pump... may cavitate badly if placed to
"suck"... Bob Fenner> Thanks |
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