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FAQs about Canister, Cartridge Filters For Marine Systems, Other
Makes Than Eheim, Fluval
Related Articles: Physical Filtration, Review
of the ViaAqua Canister Filter,
Related FAQs: Canister Filters 1,
Canister Filters 2, Canister Filters
3, Outside Power Filters, &
FAQs on: Rationale/Use,
Placement, Media,
Plumbing, Maintenance,
Troubleshooting/Repair, By Manufacturer:
Eheim, Fluval, |
Cascade, Magnums, FilStar, Marineland, Ocean Clear, Odyssea,
Renaissance, Resun... Check with
fellow hobbyists... ala "Consumer Reports" first-hand accounts re
cost of operation, replacement of motors... |
Ocean Clear Filter/Use Or Not To Use 3/6/09
Good Morning
Crew!
<Good morning, Jeff>
My question deals with a use of an Ocean Clear
canister filter.
I am replacing my current 120 gallon reef system that I
purchased used, is horribly scratched, and terribly plumbed, for a new Oceanic
System.
I would like to keep things simple, as I am home often, and stick to
routine water changes and maintenance religiously.
I have been using an Ocean
Clear canister filter on my current system, and would really like to eliminate
it from my new system if possible, and advised.
<OK>
There are a couple of
factors involved in my consideration of leaving the Ocean Clear out, as follows:
If I use the Ocean Clear and a 30 gallon tank as a sump, the sump will have to
sit kitty corner in the tank stand in order to fit the Ocean Clear.
This
makes it a bit more difficult to get at the father corner of the sump which is
where the Refugium is located. I am quadriplegic, and require help in
maintaining my system, so I like to keep things as efficient as possible.
<Understandably.>
What a good amount of sponge/filter media in the sump be
sufficient, even though I would have to remove and clean it more often than I
would the Ocean Clear?
My other option is to use a 20 gallon long tank for a
sump with no Refugium, that would leave me room for the Ocean Clear on the end
as a 20 gallon long is 30".
My feelings are that the larger the sump, the
better.
<Yes, more water in the system and capacity for unexpected shut
downs.>
Also, a Refugium built into the sump would be a plus, am I correct on
this?
<Would be a big plus.>
I will greatly appreciate your expert advice.
<The micron filter systems are great for sparkling clear water. On the other
hand they need to be maintained at least weekly. If not, the trapped waste will
soon elevate nitrate levels once decomposition starts. Cleaning isn't much fun
as the filter needs to be soaked in a bleach/water mixture for 24 hours and then
a rinsing and soaking in freshwater to make it safe for re-use. I would keep the
30 gallon sump and refugium and incorporate an efficient protein skimmer in the
system if you are not already using one. You can use the sponge, but again, this
will require weekly maintenance and would not be necessary if a protein skimmer
is in use along with an ample clean up crew to tidy up.
I do not use any
mechanical filtering in my tank for the reasons stated above.>
Thank you for
your help, and the fantastic website.
<You're welcome, Jeff, and thank you
for your fine errorless writing. Is much appreciated.
James (Salty Dog)>
Jeff Castaldo
Proquatics 1600 canister filter lid removal 1/15/09
Hi,
and thank you for this service. I've tried every other source for help...none
available w/o expensive house visit costs. I recently rescued a 30 gal tank of
fish from an abandonment situation. Can you say filth? The setup includes the
above-mentioned Proquatics 1600 Canister Filter, which I need to clean. I cannot
get the top/lid off.
<If all else fails, read the instruction manual. If you
don't have the manual, then find the web site of the manufacturer, and see if
they have them online. A lot of manufacturers do this now, thankfully.>
Not
sure whether it turns clockwise, counter-clockwise, or WHAT!
<Not familiar
with this filter. Isn't sold in the UK. But generally, canister filters are
opened in three stages. First you disconnect the hoses, which will require
turning some taps first to stop all the water flowing out the tank. This part of
the operation breaks the seal, and if you don't do this, air pressure will stop
the filter opening easily.
Secondly, you click open whatever catches are
present around the seal between the motor unit and the canister underneath.
Looking at a photo of the Proquatics 1600 Canister, there appear to be four blue
plastic catches.
Open ALL the catches. Finally, you pull the motor unit up.
Usually you don't twist the motor, but pull it up. While the details may vary
from model to model, all the canisters I've ever seen work in this basic way.>
I don't want to break the thing by using the wrong method. PetSmart, from whence
it came, no longer sells them, and I couldn't find anyone there whom I trusted
to give me their version of how to proceed. I have no vehicle, otherwise I'd
merely run from shop to shop until I found the answer to my dilemma. Can you
help me? Thanks a BUNCH!! Doris
<Cheers, Neale.> Re:
Proquatics 1600 canister filter lid removal 1/18/09
Thank you SO much. I followed your advice, and with a little elbow
grease off it came. Really...God BLESS you for caring!! caw..Caw...CAW!!
<Glad we could help. Enjoy your nice clean filter! Cheers, Neale.>
Rena filter question, can. rep. 11/27/08
I've read through your excellent FAQ on canister filters but have a
problem which doesn't come up there. A Rena XP2 filter which has been
running happily for three or so years has started to pump
intermittently. It will pump as normal for five minutes or so then go
off for a few minutes. You can hear the motor just start and stop
running - it doesn't sound like air is being expelled at any time. I've
checked all the connections, cleaned the impeller, and reprimed
thoroughly clearing air bubbles, but none of this seemed to help. Might
it be the unit's fault?
Cheers
Al
<Mmm... could be a few
things... the more likely is that the impeller magnet is losing its
magnetism... Does happen. I would first replace this before junking the
entire unit. The next most likely source of cause here is some sort of
intake blockage... that is, a "vacuum" on the non-discharge side of the
unit... I would remove, possibly bleach/rinse the intake line tubing,
thoroughly clean the fittings leading to... and the media in the filter
canister... Sometimes this sort of "vacuum" leads the impeller to "fall
out of synch" with the motors matching magnetic field. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rena filter question 11/27/08
as a follow-up
to this: I've timed the cycle and it seems to fairly reliably go 9
minutes on and 3 minutes off. Bizarre!
cheers
al
<Interesting... one other possibility is some sort of malfunction
in/with the motor, the electronics regulating it... BobF>
Re: Rena filter question 11/28/08
Many thanks
for your generous advice. I discovered the cause - a buildup of
limescale on a heater had caused it to crack, fill with water, and then
earth itself through the filter motor, frying it (this morning it was
down to 2mins on / 7 min.s off - hopefully that will still have been
enough to keep the bacteria in there alive.)
<Likely so... and yikes!
Glad you weren't electrocuted... I would GFI all circuits that have to
do with any/all aquariums... Please read here re:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gfcimarines.htm>
I replaced both the
filter (just the power head) and the heater and everything's running
nicely again. Fish don't seem too bothered about it and temp didn't drop
below 22' so I think I've had a lucky escape.
Best wishes,
Al
<Thank you for this follow-up Al. It's posting/sharing may help many
others profoundly. Bob Fenner> MARINELAND C series filters
10/21/08
Hello, I wanted to see if you were familiar with
the Marineland Cseries canister filters.
I read a review of canister
filters on your website, but although it did mention some of the
Marineland products, it did not mention the C-series. I guess maybe they
are fairly new.
<They have been out a few months, not long.>
Obviously I want something dependable, easy to assemble and clean.
<I have actually used one of these, they are a good filter. I have heard
a few second hand accounts of leaking issues, but everyone I have come
across actually using these is satisfied.>
Thanks,
Skip
<Welcome, Scott V.>
User friendly canister filter and bristleworm control 02/25/2008
Hi Guys: What a wonderful website!!! My question is regarding user
friendly canister filters. I'm a bit confused.
<<G'Morning, Andrew
today>>
I have a 55 gallon marine tank with Emperor 400 Bio Wheel,
powerhead and CPR Back Pack protein skimmer (your recommendation; thanks
so much, love it!!). Have about 70 lbs. of live rock, in addition to
crushed coral and base rock. Livestock: (one of each) false percula
clown, royal Gramma, striped damsel and a wrasse that eats bristleworms.
<<Maybe consider switching out the crushed coral at some point for reef
grade sugar sized aragonite sand>>
The present equipment keeps
aquarium fairly clean between bi-weekly, 20% water changes. Water is
clear but never polished. Why is this? Bristleworms? Insufficient
filtration?
<<Switch water changes to 10% per week, rather than the
larger change every two weeks. The bristleworms won't cause dirty
water>>
Would like to put "water polishing" filter on to really
sparkle up the water.
Questions:
1. Can I use a canister filter
in addition to present equipment?
<<Yes, you can do that, and run
some carbon in the filter to hopefully clear up the water>>
2. What
is you recommendation for a simple user friendly canister filter? What
size, brand, model do you recommend for this set up? Keep in mind my
mechanical skills are extremely limited. (The CPR BakPak PS is just
super!! I need something as efficient and easy to maintain as this).
<<The Rena XP2 filter would be a fine choice (
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~AP7313.html ). These
are easy to use with tray filtration. You can add a bag of carbon to one
of the trays and live rock rubble to the other>>
3. Need bristleworm
control tips in addition to the wrasse which does a decent job but does
not eliminate them completely. Is this possible?
<<If your bristle
worms are not at plague levels, then they are fine to leave in there.
They will act as part of your cleanup crew in the tank>>
Looked at
the Marineland Magnum 350 and Eheim models of canister filters but am
not sure which would be appropriate. Would the HOT Magnum 250 do the
job? Do you recommend HOT, immersible, or undertank models?
<<the
marine land is not a very adaptable filter besides running the standard
sponge filter, which is not really much use to you....same again with
the cheaper Eheim filters, they are just sponge filter pads.. The Rena
Xp2 or 3 would be a far better choice>>
Please advise. Thanks so
much!! June Mary
<<Thanks for the questions. Hope this helps. A
Nixon>>
Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem 9/25/07
Hi there,
<Dave>
I just set up a brand new Rena Filstar xP4 filter, but something is
wrong and water will not flow through the circuit.
<Mmm... likely
an air pocket... about the pump impeller itself...>
When I prime
the filter, the canister fills and air comes out of the outlet pile
as described in the manual, but when I switch on after 2 minutes,
the motor turns, but no water seems to be being sucked into the
filter,
<Actually... it is NOT sucked in... gravity supplies
this, and it is pumped centrifugally out...>
and the outlet hose
only fills to the level of the waterline. I can hear the motor
turning inside the canister and see the water at the top being
stirred around a bit, but nothing else is happening.
<Not
uncommon>
The filter is set up as instructed in the manual, and
using the filter media provided. It is located between the minimum
and max height below the waterline (~50" below the top of a 21" high
tank), inlet and outlet clips, filter box clips and disconnect and
pipe joints are tight. All components are new out of the box.
<Well described>
Any idea what the problem could be and how to
fix?
<Yes... "carefully" tilt the entire unit a few times...
while running the pump... on to its side or even slightly
inverted/upside down... this should mix enough water about the
volute (the area surrounding and including the pump impeller) to
vent the remaining air out... Voila!>
I have not been able to
find any troubleshooting info on xP series on the
www, as
everyone says how easy they are to prime.
<Canister filters can
be the Dickens to prime the first time... Only takes a small amount
of air around a well-balanced impeller to end up as you presently
are here>
Hope you can offer advice,
Dave
<I do hope you
have the room, the length of tubing to do the maneuver mentioned...
Do write back with applause or further consternation if you would.
Cheers, Bob Fenner> Re:
Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem 9/27/07
Its
consternation I'm afraid Bob.
<Rats!>
I could hardly wait to
go home from work to try your advice. I had already tried gingerly
tilting the tank from side to side and squeezing the sides to create
some pressure to force air out, but had been wary of manhandling the
canister with the motor running.
<Yes... is heavy, clumsy to
move about... and the worry of hose disconnection...>
With added
confidence, I followed your advice. Some air did come out, but the
filter did not spring into action. I noticed that while tipping the
unit, I got minor leakage from the seam of the motor housing
compartment, and when I took the top off it had water inside. I
don't know if that should be, but I guess if there is a route for
water to come out, there is a route for air to get in?
<Mmm,
shouldn't be, no>
After that I got rid of the air in the outlet
hose, by removing the quick disconnect, opening the valve with my
thumb over the inlet and siphoning down the outlet hose.
<Good>
I also filled the canister to the brim and carefully put the top
back on, to exclude air. That did not work either, but I noticed
that when I ran the motor, new air bubbles appeared near the top of
the canister and an air pocket forms where the motor unit sits
inside canister box.
<Mmmm>
I'm fairly convinced that it
should not be this difficult, and that I have a defective unit with
an air leak through the top of the canister that is stopping it from
operating. Nothing left to do I think, but to go back to the vendor
and ask for a replacement.
<Yes... but first...>
Will let you
know what happens and look forward to posting about a working and
stocked community aquarium in the future. Meanwhile I will browse
your excellent articles demystifying cycling.
Cheers,
Dave
<I would try taking all the hose sections apart Dave... re-fitting
them (pushing all back together hard)... and with the ding-dang
thing basically empty... try starting it all again... with the
intake line siphoning while you use the disconnected discharge line
(as you state above) discharging into a bucket... with the pump
running. Am pretty sure this is an "air lock" situation (about the
impeller) still... that just needs to be purged... IF there is an
air leak on the intake side though... this does need to be
remedied... Wish I was there physically to aid you... BobF>
Re: Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem solved 10/2/07
Hi Bob,
<Dave>
To tie off this thread I finally found out what was wrong
with the filter.
<Ahh~!>
The unit I purchased was supplied
missing a small black cap that covers off one of the ports in the
top motor housing unit (not shown in the manual),
hence no
pressure. The LFS replaced the unit, so I will soon be up and
running.
<Great!>
Thanks for your tips, which mean that I now
know what to do if I have any problem with the filter in future when
the tank is stocked.
Dave
<Thank you for this useful
follow-up. Will post for others edification. Cheers, BobF>
Re: Rena Filstar xP4 setup problem solved 10/3/07
No worries
Bob,
<Dave>
Actually this problem was a blessing in disguise,
otherwise I would probably not have discovered all the wonderful
information at WetWebMedia until I had a more serious problem with a
tank full of fish.
<Ahh!>
Just to add that the Rena Filstar
xP4 really is very quiet, and had it not been for the missing part,
would have been simplicity itself to set-up and operate, so despite
my problem I would happily recommend it to others.
<Good>
I'll follow up on the QC with the manufacturer (now Mars Fishcare)
Dave
<Real good. BobF> |
Rena filter improvements 7/24/05
I just wanted to write to say
thank you for suggesting I get rid of my Penguin 170 and upgrade to a
larger filter. I have a 37 gallon salt water system with 2 clowns, 1
six-line wrasse, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp, 3 snails, and 3 crabs. I
decided to upgrade to the Rena xp3. I really liked how easy the
instructions were to follow. I was able to get it setup in less than an
hour. I however have three minor things to gripe about. First I wish
the holes in the spray bar were drilled to a larger diameter.
<You
can enlarge them... best with a Dremel tool>
When I went to test
the system the spray bar made a constant whining noise. I went ahead a
drilled the holes a little wider and it fixed the problem. Second I
wish the tubes that came with the filter were more flexible or a little
bit wider. I had the hardest time putting them on the pipe assemblies
even after warming them up in hot water. The last thing was the
impeller. After turning on the system the impeller made some rattling
noise.
<Likely air caught about it... best to turn off, wait a few
seconds, turn back on... to clear>
I've read some
reviews from
people saying these filters are noisy. I now know why they write
this. The impeller was not fully seated. I do hope the upgrade I made
will help a little with my algae problem. The only thing I have left to
do with my tank is smash my SeaClone 100 with a sledge hammer.
<Heeeee!>
Thank you for having such a great site and for writing a
great reference book.
Chris Swanson
<Thank you for writing...
and do consider penning a brief note to Rena, their distributor re your
concerns... does help. Bob Fenner> Resun Cy-280U Canister
Filter 8/13/05
Hi
<Hello>
Just found your site & thought
I would ask a stupid question.
<... not stupid... but you
mis-spelled the name of the manufacturer... it's Resun... as in here:
http://www.dagua.com.br/index_arquivos/Page9442.htm>
We have
recently bought the above canister filter but are having trouble of
water leaking all over the place when we try to disconnect to clean. Do
you know this model at all & are we doing something fundamentally wrong
when we disconnect it.
<Mmm, don't know the specific line, though
saw it at the InterZoo trade show in 04...>
We turn off the power
turn the valve on the tube to off. Then this is where I think we go
wrong, we unscrew the Tube & attachments from the lid.
<Don't need
to do this... just take the top off... with the lines in place>
and
this is when there is water all over the place. Should we just unclip
the top of the canister instead???
<Ahh, yes... though, due to poor
design, there is still going to be some water (between the valves and
the top) that overflows onto... a towel or bucket that you might place
under the unit. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
regards Kerrie How do I
set up a Jebo Odyssea CFS4 - no instructions were included
11/10/05
I recently bought a Jebo Odyssea CFS4 canister filter on
EBay. When it arrived, there was no instruction booklet. There was a
brief description of how to use it on the outside side panel of the box,
which referred to the instruction manual. I found no instruction manual
of any kind in the box. There is no contact information (address,
website, or phone) on the box. I'd love to contact them as I'd like to
find out how to set up, run, and maintain my canister filter.
Or,
alternately, is there a good source I could turn to for canister filter
installation basics?
Many thanks,
Laura Schofield
<Here's
Jebo's site: http://www.jebo.com.cn/.
I'd contact them re... if this is taking too long, you can read through
WWM's archives on canister filters. Bob Fenner> Re: How do I set
up a Jebo Odyssea CFS4? 11/12/2005
Thanks Bob - you guys
have compiled a goldmine of information. Unfortunately there is so much
information. I've been in this hobby for almost 2 years now, and the
more I learn, the more I realize that I have to learn!!!
<Heeee! Lots
of good help>
I've been looking through your WWM archives on canister
filters in general (don't see much mention of Jebo Odyssea - mainly
Fluval or Eheim) and will try your suggestions on priming my filter.
<Real good... should work... they're a newer co., brand... but about the
same principles>
In addition to writing to you, I also wrote to the
EBay store I bought this from. They replied today that as this is a
direct import from China, the instructions are in Chinese. They referred
me to the brief instructions on the side of the box (which I've already
followed - aside from pre-filling the filter with water, would you
recommend this as well?). I plan on doing a water change tonight - this
might be a good time to start my canister filter.
<Yes>
I'll let
you know a bit about my system. It's a 40 gallon FOWLR, although my live
rock is only a 5 lb piece, and its been decimated by my fish - maybe
there's some life left inside though. My fish mostly started off as
brackish, and now I have them in full salt water and they seem to be
doing well - very nice color and no problems after about a year of full
salt
water conditions. I have: 3 mono sebae; 1 green scat; 1
yellow-tail blue damsel; 1 yellow tang; 2 peppermint shrimp.
<<Neat mix! MH>>
My substrate is 40 lbs of CaribSea
aragonite, which I seeded with 5 lbs of live aragonite from my LFS. For
filtration, I run a Skilter 250 (yes, I know its a dinosaur - but its
all I could afford at the time). I currently have to change the filter
pads about once every 3 weeks, so I hope the canister filter will help
with this.
<Should>
Also, I do weekly 25% water changes and have a
dozen mangroves in the tank for additional denitrification.
<Neat!>
<<Have you seen the lagoon/brackish display of the Long Beach Aquarium
of the Pacific? Rather similar, really interesting display. MH>>
I keep the SG at around 1.022 - and will now start adding calcium,
iodine, strontium & molybdenum for the peppermint shrimp (recently moved
from my reef nanocube to the big tank due to the disappearance of an
ocellaris clown, I now think the ocellaris died of causes other than
being hunted by anything, and my peppermint shrimp ate him very quickly
- no trace of him whatsoever - gone in less than a day!)
<Happens...
the shrimp didn't kill the Clown though...>
Anyways, I put the
peppermints in my big tank as a knee-jerk reaction and don't fancy
trying to catch them, so here they'll stay. After I get the canister
filter going, I want to add a UV sterilizer that I bought last spring.
Needs to go after a canister filter though, as solid particles in the
water would break it apparently. I know my current setup leaves a lot to
be desired, but it is a work in progress. I did weekly water tests for
several months, but am now a bit lazy on this and only test about
monthly. The parameters are always excellent though, with ammonia,
nitrites and nitrates always at zero. Do you have any
criticisms/suggestions for me? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Many thanks.
<Mmm, no advice... but to keep on keeping on! Bob
Fenner> HOT Magnum ... air entrainment- 2/28/2006
First I
have to say that I love your site and refer to it all the time (and
usually find the info I am looking for).
<Okay>
That being said,
I could not find any reference to the HOT Magnum releasing bursts of
microbubbles.
<Yikes... trouble>
I spent ½ hr on the phone with
Marineland and they didn’t seem to be able to help me.
<Unusual>
Their suggestion was to “burp” the canister.
<Mmm, would help if
this situation was temporary... that is, only bubbly for a short while
(a day let's say at the most), but then all aire removed that was
entrapped by opening...>
To leave it running and lift it horizontal
while making sure that the intake tube stays in the water. This is
supposed to get the air out.
<Will... if the amount of air is
finite...>
But it didn’t seem to work. I still have bursts of
microbubbles every 20 seconds or so. When I first set it up about 2
weeks ago, I don’t recall
seeing any bubbles. I have since pulled
it apart for cleaning (lots of algae at the moment) and since then I get
these bursts of bubbles. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Donna
<Yes...
there is an area where air is "getting in"... and this is dangerous...
for a couple of reasons... Emphysematosis ("gas-bubble disease"... you
can read re on WWM), and the possibility of leaking... Somewhere about
the tubing, connections, the actual closure of the Magnum, there is a
way for air to get in (and possibly water to get out...). A few ways can
be employed to detect and fix this leak... First, hand-tightening all by
twisting the tubing, hard fittings together may "do it"... Turning the
unit off, and swiping a bit of toilet paper along the junctures (the
intake lines outside the tank, the top/seal of the filter, and the
discharge lines) may reveal a bit of water seeping out where the air is
getting in... This/these should help... but do write back if you are
still unable to find/fix the leak. Oh, and you did lube the o-ring? Bob
Fenner> Equipment/Magnum Hang On - 03/05/06
Crew,
<Donna>
I wrote to you about a week ago about a problem I was having
with my HOT Magnum filter and constant bursts of microbubbles. The
advice I had gotten from Bob, I think, was to make sure I had lubed the
o ring. I used up the whole little tube that they sent and it did seem
to help for a while. Then it started up all over again. My tank
glistened with bubbles all over everything.
I finally solved it. I
brought the Magnum back to the store and got a Rena Filstar XP1 (tank is
only 30 gal). Best investment I ever made!!! My tank is cleaner and
clearer then it ever was. I would have not given that filter a second
thought because I had never heard of it except that I had read in a few
places on this board about what a wonderful filter it is.
Thank you for having such a great board with so much information. I
finally have a tank that I can't take my eyes off of. <Thank you for the
info Donna. I too have a Magnum HOT I no longer use for the same reason
as yours. Marineland did mail me new gaskets, "O" rings etc, but didn't
help any. Did mention that to them but have heard nothing from
them. We are both stuck with them I guess. Too bad because they are a
nice filter, easy to clean, etc, but tank isn't much to look at with
microbubbles every five seconds.>
Thanks again, <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Donna Rena Filstar Issue... air
leak 1/31/07
Hi Guys-
<Howdy>
I have a 300
gph Rena FilStar canister filter which has been functioning beautifully
for about 6 months. Over the last few days the water level in the
canister has dropped and every 2-3 minutes, there is a sucking sound and
a whoosh of aire entrapped in water is jettisoned out through the out
let hose. It creates quit a horrendous sound.
<Yes... you have an
"air leak" somewhere on the intake side of your plumbing>
Have I
lost my seal on the filter?
<Yes>
How is air entering the
canister? Whats the remedy, new o ring, or a new canister filter?
T
Joe Tremper
<Mmm... a careful examination (possibly with a length of
tubing against your ear, other noise turned off... and/or a squirt
bottle with "just water"... to try and detect the leak... starting from
the intake from the tank... to the canister itself... Perhaps a
systematic disassembling, trimming of "old" flexible tubing, re-fitting
to the hard plastic couplers/els... maybe the addition of a bit of
smears of pure Silicone lubricant to seal all a bit easier... including
the top/O-ring... Good hunting! Bob Fenner> Worth the
money (marine aquarium filtration)
I have a 70gal saltwater tank
fish only with live rock
<Okay>. The filters are red sea protein
skimmer, wet dry trickle system and a UV sterilizer. My water is pretty
clear, but I always think there is room for improvement, so do you think
that the Ocean Clear Canister Filters (model 325) is really worth the
money and would you really get a get improvement in your tank?
<If
memory serves me correct, Ocean clear filters do not have an automatic
siphon. Jeez...these things are a real pain to maintenance...and very
messy! If I were going for an inexpensive filter, I would get the Fluval
404 or spend the real bucks for an Eheim. If your water tests are almost
perfect every time you test (never even a trace of ammonia or nitrite),
your fish are living for years (not months or weeks), and you're not
having any identifiable water quality problems including cloudy or
discolored water, you may not need a new filter. But redundancy in
equipment is sometimes a good thing to
have...>
MIKE WHITE
<David D.>
Marineland Magnum Filter
Please comment on Marineland's reply to
my original message. The Magnum 350 pumps 350 gallons per hour which is
more than most canisters. How come other brands of canisters pump the
same or less and are rated for 150+ gallon tanks?
<I generally don't
like any of the Marineland filtration products. IMO none of them perform
efficiently, all are expensive to run, they offer little or no
flexibility in use/setup, and because Marineland has proprietary
equipment, you can only replace media/parts with other Marineland items.
Why do they do this? Because it creates a permanent customer base!
Pretty smart...Huh? The discrepancy in ratings that you sight is due to
the fact that the filtration you will get with the micron filter is less
than the filtration you would get with other types of media or
combinations of media. Remember that flexibility issue? The only thing
that you can do with this filter is run the micron sleeve. Other filters
you can use various media types or combinations; an important thing to
consider. Before purchasing this item, please look closely at the cost
of replacing the micron filter (about $8.00) and how often this will
need to be done (probably weekly depending on bioload). I had an Eclipse
system for about 3 years and it got expensive buying those filter
cartridges...and the y didn't really provide much quality filtration>
It seems the Magnum 350 with the fluidized bed should be plenty of
filtration without needing to supplement with another filter.
What do
you think?
<If you use a good filter the fluidized bed will
actually be overkill IMO. However, there would be no harm in using both
methods (other than nitrate production) and redundancy is good in
aquaria. Do yourself a favor...Check out either a Fluval 404 (about the
same price as the Marineland item), or Eheim (more expensive).
DrsFostersSmith.com have really good prices on these items. As always,
all of the above is my opinion but...I am speaking from experience!
David Dowless>
Please email reply. Drew - Magnum Canister
Question -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
I have a 90 gal tank
with 90 lbs Kaelini rock that has been curing for 4 weeks. my numbers
seem fine.. sg 1.023..ph-8.5? I do not have any fish yet but should in a
bout a week. have been doing weekly 30-40 gal changes...last week my
water had a yellow tinge to it. the crew suggested might be high in
nutrients that will explode when lighted finally go on. I bought a
magnum 350(have a protein skimmer giving at least 2 cups per week) and I
am using carbon. how often should I change the carbon? <I like to keep
in a batch of carbon no more than two weeks. You don't really need to
run it constantly, and should perhaps go two weeks on and two weeks
off.> should I leave this running permanently with carbon or should I
use it as needed to let skimmer/rock/1.5 inches fine sand do its work?
<As needed.> if I use carbon as needed can I use the same carbon after
it sits/ also with this filter they give a micron filter for polishing.
<No, the 'active' quality of carbon is typically spent in a week or so,
sometime less.> how long do you run this? <No more than two weeks.>
instructions say to clean cartridge you mix 1 part bleach to 3 parts
h20, immerse overnight, rinse until chlorine smell disappears and
reuse...is this wise to do? <Unless you like to purchase replacement
filters all the time, it's really your only choice. I would also leave
it out in the sun for a day or two.> ...thanks for your help!
<Cheers, J -- > Magnum 350 10/5/03
I recently acquired
a used Magnum 350 canister filter. How do I set it up? Thanks, Cherie
<hmmm... I'm not sure I/we can best serve you by a less than clear and
long explanation of this product via e-mail. Let me ask you to help
yourself (better) by archiving the manufacturers website... and seeking
a local aquarium society (excellent source of such information and
advice to see and work hands-on). You might also try out
www.wetwebmedia.com forum for fellow users that can share insight.
Best regards, Anthony>
Magnum 350 Manual 10/5/03
For
the person who bought the used Magnum 350, the owner's manual can be
downloaded from this link:
http://www.marineland.com/products/manuals/magnum_manual.pdf
Steve Allen
<outstanding follow-up, Steve. Thanks kindly :) Anthony>
Wanted: Clear, Clean Water!
Hey all, thanks for running such a
great site.
<You're quite welcome! Scott F. here today!>
I have a
quick question for you. I haven't set this tank up yet, but it is a
60gal, and I have a Seaclone 150 skimmer, and a Penn-Plax Cascade 1000
canister filter for it. I plan on using around 50-60 lbs of live rock in
this thing, with only fish in there. And was just curious as to what
filter media you would recommend me putting in the canister??
<I'm a
big fan of activated carbon. It excels at removing a variety of organics
and nutrients from water. If you change it regularly, you can be assured
that the media will be at its peak absorptive capacity. Choose a good
grade and follow the manufacturer's instructions concerning the amount
to use, etc. As an aside, make sure that your skimmer is pulling out a
few cups of dark, yucky skimmate every week!>
Do you think I will be
able to keep the water really clear with this form of setup?? Thanks for
your time. Rob
<Rob, if you don't overstock, feed carefully, change
small amounts of water regularly, and pay attention to filter
maintenance, you'll have a system that will have high water quality and
be as clear as you envision! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Odd
brand canister filter parts
I have a Hailea WL-504 canister
filter. I am in need of a part I need the intake & output tubes base. Do
you have any idea where I can get one? I am desperate I have about a
hundred babies in my tank. Thank you Sherleen
<Did a quick search
for Hailea WL-504 on the Net... as have not heard, seen this line... and
no luck (other than e-Bay... Do you have the instructions, packaging for
this filter? Do they list an email address? I'd call or email some of
the larger etailers here: Marine Depot, Dr.s Foster & Smith, Big Al's...
hoping they've got parts for this unit. Good luck. Bob Fenner>
Canister Filters
Hi Gang!
<Hi John>
Looking for a little
advice here. After reading all of the posts on this subject, I still
want to run something by you - thanks for the patience.
My setup is
as follows:
55 gal FOWLR tank, 5" sand bed, 50lbs rock, AquaC Remora
Pro hang-on skimmer, FilStar canister filter, Teclima chiller, 1 clown,
1 goby, 1 Foxface, 1 small puffer, 1 royal Gramma, 1 damsel, 1 medium
anemone. Chemical levels are all good except Nitrates which remain at
around 35ppm. Water is changed by 10% every week and the canister is
cleaned monthly (contains pads, carbon and something called Bio-Chem
Zorb...
<Yes, it is similar to Chemi-Pure but IMO Chemi-Pure works
better>
... that is supposed to reduce nitrates). I have a feeling
that my current canister filter is generating the nitrates but am not
sure.
<Don't think so. Do you clean/rinse the coarse filter and
replace the micron pad weekly? If not, you should. I use a Filstar on my
tank and the micron filter is pretty dirty after a week. We have to
export waste/nutrients to keep nitrates low.>
My FilStar filter has
developed a leak and I feel it is time to replace it.
<Do you have
the XP series? Contact the manufacturer, I'm sure they would make it
right.>
I am looking at the Eheim line of canister filters for this.
Due to small space availability, a sump is out of the question. For the
Eheim, there are mechanical (2026 or 2028) and wet/dry (2227 or 2229)
models. Keeping in mind that I am fighting to get nitrates, do you have
any suggestions on which way to go? I have seen many times over that
canister filters can produce nitrates...
<Canister filters produce
nitrates if the pads aren't cleaned replaced weekly. I have a unreadable
nitrate level but I'm fussy about excess nutrients and maintenance. You
mention a 5" sand bed. Do you have sand stirrers etc? If not, you have a
nitrate factory right there.>
... but do not know what other road to
take for filtration given my constraints. If there are any other tips
for filtration here, please shout out! Additionally, if the Eheim is a
good choice, I was wondering the difficulty in the cleaning process - I
would love a filter that is as easy to clean as possible.
<I use the
Rena Filstar XP1 and I think it is one of the easiest to clean filters
I've used, and I've been through plenty. Getting back to Eheim, they do
make a good dependable product. I have one in storage that still works
good after 20 years. Your other option would be a hang on mud filter by
Ecosystems. They are known for reducing nitrates and a great place for
growing pods, etc. If you decide on a Eheim Wet/Dry, go the Wet Web
Forum first and post a question there concerning operation, likes,
dislikes about this particular Eheim. I haven't heard anyone praising it
yet. James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks!
<You're welcome>
Canister Filters - II
Thank you for the reply and excellent
information James.
<You're welcome>
You triggered another series
of questions though. I'll make it as brief as possible:
- I do use an
XP2 FilStar filter and will contact the manufacturer for the leak issue
- thanks. However, I only clean it once per month so maybe this has
something to do with it.
<The pads are cheap enough to replace
weekly, especially if you get them online. The coarse pad just requires
rinsing.>
I will try weekly cleanings.
<Good>
It contains 2
coarse pads, 2 fine pads, 1 bag of Bio-Chem, and 1 floss pad. On weekly
cleaning, should I clean the whole filter, including all pads, and
replace the floss as usual? I have heard that the bottom pads build a
bacterial colony that one might want to keep but I always wash it away.
<I fill the sink up with a little water and keep squishing the coarse
pad and draining/adding water till no color appears to be coming from
the pad. I discard the water in the filter, rinse the filter box out,
rinse my Chemi-Pure bag, and replace the micron pad. If you are
concerned about the bacteria colony, you can rinse in discarded
saltwater.>
- If I decide to experiment with the mud system, would
this be in place of or in addition to the canister filter?
<John, go
to ecosystems.com. They have
quite a bit of FAQ's on their product.>
- Additionally, I will try
Chemi-Pure. I am used to packages that are easy to place in the filter.
This looks like loose material. Do I purchase a baggy of some type to
put it in?
<Chemi-Pure comes with its own bag, just requires rinsing.
I also has more scavenging resins than the product you're using.>
- I
think that you got something with the sand bed being an issue. I stir it
with my hand, at least in the front, every week at cleaning. Other than
that, some fish have taken to scooping it up with their mouths or moving
it with their tails in an effort to dig some kind of hole that I keep
refilling. The sand in back, however, gets little movement - accounting
for about 50+ percent of the bed. Any recommendations for sand stirrers
that would be appropriate for the size and stocking of the tank?
<Sand sifting stars are good, but I wouldn't put more than one in per 50
gallons. Some gobies also do this quite well. Do a Google search on the
Wet Web for sand sifters.>
Again - thanks for the wonderful service.
As usual, I've tipped the kitty.
<You're welcome, John. James (Salty
Dog)> Re: Good Morning. (Marine set-up... choice
in canister filters)
One last question, I hate to bother so much,
but I am really contemplating going with the bigger tank actually this
weekend. Hey you only live once!
<As far as we know...>
Anyways, I
have the Red Sea PRIZM protein skimmer which is rated to tanks up to 90
gallons, so that's not a problem.
<Hmm, actually... I rate this
product at no more than half that maximum>
Will a Magnum 350 be
enough for filtration or something more like Eheim 2026?
<The Eheim
is a MUCH better choice... but what else? Live rock? Any room for a
sump?>
I know you prefer the Eheim brand, whets the difference?
<Initial cost only on the negative side... the Eheim will last you
literally a lifetime... uses very little power, very quiet, holds its
value as a superior product should... better all the way around>
I
hate thinking about how much money I am going to have to spend on live
rock!
<Shop around... look on the www.WetWebMedia.com Links Page...
deals on whole boxes to be had.>
Well thanks for your help.
Alfredo
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Filter Problems
(canister, marine)
hey... I don't know if you guys are familiar
with filters... but my filter won't suck up water anymore.... can you
tell me what the problem is... its a magnum filter... the old ones.. not
the new 350... but yeah... it won't suck up any more water... I checked
it many times.. the only thing wrong with it is the rubber band which is
on the cap... I asked a man about it and he said that the because the
band has little breaks on it that it would let in air.. would air affect
the filter's ability to suck the water... I mean at first it works...
but only for a few seconds.. the water level in the filter starts to
lower, then at about halfway emptied it stops sucking in anymore
water... can you help me out... I know it's not a fish problem but.. any
help is fine... thanks... Sokha
<You should replace your gaskets.
-Steven Pro>
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