
|
|
FAQs about Canister, Cartridge Filters For Marine Systems, Plumbing
Related Articles: Physical Filtration, Review
of the ViaAqua Canister Filter,
Related FAQs: Canister Filters 1,
Canister Filters 2, Canister Filters
3, Outside Power Filters, &
FAQs on: Rationale/Use,
Placement, Media,
Maintenance, Troubleshooting/Repair,
By Manufacturer: Eheim,
Fluval, Other Brands, | 
|
Canister Filter intake inside Overflow Box 4/2/09
Hi!
<Hello Jim.>
I spoke with someone at Glass-holes.com about getting an overflow box
that would surface skim using a canister filter. They recommended that I
write to you regarding this - he said ask for Scott V.
<Here with you.>
I'm currently running eheim pro3 on a 55 gallon cichlid tank. I wanted
to know if a surface skimming box is able to be made to be used with
canister filters.
<Well, this is a common question at G-H.com (I am part owner, have been
gone for a bit of time here). Most ask how to put a closed loop intake
in the overflow box.
It is the same basic principle, fueled by a short passage in a common
reefkeeping book. Basically the main issue is air is brought in with the
water and will be taken in by the closed loop or the canister. With
freshwater this is much less of an issue. With a deep enough box (quite
deep, with the filter intake near the bottom of the tank) you can do
this, but you will not be collecting what is from the surface...
neither here not there in this case. You would be far better off just
drilling for the canister intake and/or output if you want a cleaner
look.>
Thank you for your help.
Jim
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Canister filter application 7/6/08 hello WWM crew, i <...
the beginning of sentences, titles, the pronoun "I" H.N. are
capitalized... Please heed our instructions if you want our help>
have a question concerning the possibility of a modification to my Rena
Filstar xP2 canister filter. My fish tank is 36"x18.5"x17" ~55 g. I have
two 1 3/4 holes drilled in the back left side of my fish tank; one being
3"x3" away from the top left corner about to be used as a 3/4" inlet to
a refugium I'm building, and another being 3"x3" away from the bottom
left corner. <Good description... I wonder why the opening in the top
left is so large diameter... and re the placement of the one in the
lower left> What i would like to know is if i can attach my inlet
tube from the canister filter to the bottom hole and let it drain
through a 1" inlet into the filter. <Mmmm> I'm worried about
possibly overworking the filter since i believe the pressure would force
more water to run through the filter normally. <No... not if all is
sealed, the discharge is about where you propose... the overall pressure
in the unit will/would be about the same> Here are the specs of the
filter: flow rate=300 U.S. gph, aquarium vol.=up to 75 g, canister vol.
1.4g, power=16w, amps=0.368, max. water head 55 in.(1.40m), and water
flow of 160 g (with media and accessories). No other accessories except
the foam, micro-pads, and activated carbon. The filter will sit 4ft.
below the hole. If i set this up correctly, would the filter be degraded
in any way? <No, but...> Just as well, are there any problems
with this set up if i used a 2" in. sandbed? <See WWM re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm Scroll down to "Marine
Substrates"...> And would there be any flooding i have to worry about
if the power shuts off?? <Not this, but...> Thank-you for your
time, H.N. <Am very concerned, VERY re issues of the placement of
the bottom left cut-out... what if the canister somehow has
"troubles"... the water will (quickly) drain down to this level... where
will the water be? And when you want to work on the unit... do have
valving installed... If it were mine, I'd run the canister plumbing
lines over the top of the tank... use the present through-puts perhaps
for closed-loop circulation. Bob Fenner>
Plumbing 4/10/07 Hi guys, <Hello Tim> I have a
120-gallon All Glass aquarium w/dual mega flows. This was initially set
up to feed a homemade wet dry w/ a 75-gallon sump. All was well until I
had to move from a house into a Manhattan apt. Without the additional
space of a house I do not have the room the wet dry requires. So I am
forced to switch to a smaller solution. I went out and purchased an
Eheim Professional 3 canister filter that I had planned on hooking up to
one of the mega's. Upon opening the box I quickly realized that the two
were not a match made in heaven. Do you have any suggestions on how to
reduce the large bulkhead into the small Eheim intake? I have just
returned from the local Home Depot and the didn't seem to have a reducer
suitable for the task. <I'd try here, should be able to conjure
something up. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=13670&utm_source=google&gclid=CKy66-SXuIsCFRKPgQodGmj8yQ&cookie%5Ftest=1>
Thanks, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Tim
Multiple Canisters on a Reef Tank. 9/28/05 <Hi, Adam J with
you.> I have a 44 Gal Pentagon Salt Water reef tank and I am
currently running a Fluval 204 canister and I want to add a Fluval 404
canister to the filtration of the tank. Is it possible to daisy chain
the 2 filter in line together? <I would run them independent due to
the different flow rates and incase one of them fails to operate. In my
opinion “combining” them would only add more complication.> I would
prefer to use the 204 as the mechanical and chemical and the 404 as the
mechanical and biological. Or would it be better just to run the 2
independent of each other? < I would much rather add a larger/more
efficient skimmer than your current prism to the system rather than
another canister filter which have been known to be, dare I say, nitrate
factories. Looking into refugiums would not be a bad idea either.>
The inhabitants of the tank are as follows: about 30 lbs. live rock
with some hitch hikers crushed coral bed Giant Blue Carpet
Anemone <This anemone will eventually outgrow your tank, and
possibly eat some of your inhabitants.> Torch Coral Blue Crocea
Clam 2 Peppermint shrimp 30 Astrea Snails 30 Blue leg
hermits <Far to many snails and hermits for this size set-up, make
sure they are all getting adequate food.> 2 Green chromis 2
Yellow Tail damsels 1 Blue Devil 1 Yellow Tang <This fish
will very quickly outgrow your current tank.> 1 Black Perc (I think
it’s a Black Saddle back) Fluval 204 Filter Prism Protein
Skimmer 2 Maxi Jet Power heads 230 Wt Lighting on for 12 hours
(150wt MH, 80wt PC) Thanks !! , Joe Piazza <Anytime, Adam J.>
Equipment/Pumps/Plumbing 5/2/06 Hello Crew,
<Hello John> I've Google'd this topic and haven't found any hints or
answers, so it is time I ask you...I'm setting up a 90g AGA with the
Megaflow overflow kit. I have an Eheim 1262 for the return from my
sump/refugium. My problem is plumbing the Eheim, with metric
connections, to the 3/4" Megaflow bulkhead. If I use Eheim/metric
tubing, it won't fit on the bulkhead, but if I use 3/4" tubing it won't
connect to the Eheim. Any hints or ideas? BTW, the Eheim is rated
for higher flow than the Megaflow, but I plan to bleed off some of the
return via a T into the refugium. <You might want to dip the tubing
in boiling water to soften it, then try to slip it onto the barbed
fitting. I have done that a few times with good results.> Thank
You <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> John H. Which
Option For Plumbing A Separate External In-Line Filter? - 01/18/07
I have a 142 gallon aquarium that drains through a 12" x 12" central
overflow via a 2" Durso standpipe into a 30 gallon sump. <<Ok>>
A Reeflo Barracuda then pumps the water back into the tank at about 1500
GPH. I want to run a second loop through a Nu-clear 533 filter,
primarily for additional circulation and chemical filtering with Purigen
and PhosGuard. <<I see...excellent>> I have a Little Giant
4MDQ-SC for this purpose, although I would like to eventually replace it
with something cooler and quieter. <<One of the small Iwaki or GRI
pumps would do nicely...even BlueLine or PanWorld for a bit less
dosh. Choose the smaller models without the cooling fan for less
noise...would still be plenty of flow for the purpose of the filter>>
My question is, how should I supply this second pump? <<Preferably
with its own throughput/bulkhead fitting from the tank>> I have
three available options. The first is to feed it through a 1" bulkhead
in the bottom of the overflow. <<Mmm...only if the overflow can take
the extra volume...I believe RC has a 'calculator' for this>> The
second is to use the currently plugged hole in the side of the overflow
near the bottom, and then through the 1" bulkhead in the bottom of the
overflow via 1" tubing. In that way, it will draw water from the tank
outside of the overflow, not from within the overflow itself where it
may compete with the 2" drain. <<Indeed...this is a much better
option in my opinion. The bulkhead in the side of the overflow can
easily be fitted with a screen to protect livestock>>>> The final
option is to feed the pump from the sump, but will that be too much for
the sump or drain to handle? <<You'll be pushing, maybe even
exceeding the limits of the drain...at the least this will create more
noise/turbulence, and the associated plumbing hassles to resolve same>>
Thank you very much for any assistance that you can provide! <<Best
to go with option two in my opinion. This is the approach with the
least hassle and the best chance for success...you will in effect be
creating a closed-loop with an in-line filter. Regards, EricR>>
Using A Manifold With An Eheim Canister Filter 1/10/07 Hi crew!
<Hello Laura.> I read through the info on the Goodbye Powerheads
article and was wondering if this manifold idea would work if I built it
and ran it out from the return on my Eheim 2028 canister filter (rather
than having to add another pump to my already crowded 55 gal. reef
tank). What do you think? <Laura, the Eheim pump that is
incorporated into the filter will more than likely not develop enough
pressure to use a manifold with it. The Eheims usually come with a
spray bar option, and this is what I would use.> And also, does this
manifold really allow a tank to flourish without the use of all these
powerheads? <It does help to eliminate dead spots in the system, and
yes, can take the place of several powerheads if the pump is sized
correctly. Do search our site on this subject for more info.> I
will admit I am a bit skeptical, but I'd love to give it a try if I can
eliminate them! Thanks so much for this wonderful site and your
expert advice! <You're welcome, and thank you for writing us. James
(Salty Dog)> Laura
Plumbing in a Large Canister Filter Hi Bob, <Steven Pro
this morning.> I am about to embark on my first PVC project, and
I'm stressing. <No need to.> I'm trying to connect an Ocean
Clear canister and Mag-Drive 12 to my tank. If you can you recommend
any websites or articles, or give any suggestions I would greatly
appreciate them. My biggest concerns are "gluing myself in a corner"
so to speak. That is, I'm not sure where in the line I should put
any valves and/or unions. <Before and after anything that may
need cleaning or replacement.> I don't know what types of elbows
to use where. <Schedule 40 PVC is best, if that is what you are
talking about.> Do they make PVC adapters that are threaded on
one side and have a PVC slip on the other? <Sure> Also, how
can I prime the pump once it is "hard wired"? I attached a diagram
of my proposed setup. <I have never used an Ocean Clear canister
before, but you should be able to open the unit up to replace/clean
the micron cartridge. You should be able to simply open it up and
pour some water into it to prime the pump.> Thanks for all your
help, Adam <I looked at your drawing. It appears fine. I would
place true unions right before the canister, between the canister
and pump, and after the pump. -Steven Pro> | 
|
Re: Canister filter (water flow) Hello, I have a 54 gal.
corner tank which I bought with an under gravel filter. I just bought
and installed a Fluval 304 canister filter as well. My question is
regarding the current the new filter creates. How much is O.K.? I have
the filter valve partially closed to slow it down a little for
now. When the valve is open all the way the current is pretty strong in
my tank. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks, Kurt Will
<Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarart.htm the same principles apply
to freshwater circulation considerations. Bob Fenner> Re:
Flow question in a seahorse tank (03/11/03) Thanks for the info
Ananda; <No problem> I like your idea about the Fluval. I checked
some of them out. If I got rid of the power filter and went with the
Fluval would my tank get enough oxygen. <Sure. It's just a matter
of directing the water flow.> The do have a spray bar that you can
get to attach to the Fluval <You could also make one of tubing (bring
the powerhead part of the filter to the Home Depot/Lowe's/etc and pick
the tubing that fits), with suction cups to hold the tubing where you
want it....> and I could run it along the back of the tank, maybe
like, across the top quarter of the back wall. I know as long as you
get a good ripple across the surface of the water, you will be getting
enough oxygen in the tank. Does that sound right to you???? <Yup.>
Thanks again; Kevin <You're welcome. --Ananda> Inline UV
Question Can I run an Eheim 2213 canister filter inline with my
Aquanetics 8watt UV sterilizer? This is for a 37 gallon fish only
marine tank. <You can but it will affect flow rate some. Craig>
Plumbing Dilemma... I just acquired a 70 gallon reef ready tank .
its got 3 holes on the bottom of the tank and 2 on one of the ends
about 2/3 to 3/4 the way up. I have two canister filters and I'm not
sure how to plumb this set up. As of right now I'm not sure if I'm going
fresh or salt but I've got to get this plumbing thing figured out.
<The fun part...LOL> Should the return lines be on the bottom of the
tank with check valves in case power out age? <Frankly, check valves
scare the hell out of me! They are vulnerable to failure...at the most
unfortunate times... I'd prefer something above the water line, like Sea
Swirls, which have the added benefit of oscillating water flow...Neat
stuff...> And the line feeding into the pumps be the ones on the
side? I just can't find any info out for this kind of tank. <Well,
there are about as many approaches to tank plumbing as there are
hobbyists...No real right or wrong answers...Just do what works or you,
and remains reliable and functional...> I'd really appreciate your
help , and maybe I'm way off , any suggestions ? <As above...check
out Sea Swirls for returns...> I'm lost. Thanks. Sean McConnell
<Well, Sean-there are lots of approaches here...you can look into
plumbing on the WWM site...lots of good information here- check it out!
Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Oxygen content Hi, I
checked the search tool for my question with no luck. So forgive me if
this was already asked. My question is about octopi. I'm setting up a 30
gallon cube tank with a canister filter. I have heard that octopi need
higher levels of dissolved oxygen content, but I'm not exactly sure what
that means. How should I keep it high? Or is what I have good enough?
Thanks a lot and again sorry if this was already asked. <Ben, the
canister filter is not going to give you the oxygen level you need. You
really need a wet/dry filter for good air/water exchange. James (Salty
Dog)> Oxygen content Follow-up Hey <Hey here>
Thanks for your quick response. My LFS told me this would be enough so I
spent 200 dollars on it. Is there anything else I can do? <What will
help some is to have the return water break the surface of the tank
water. That is, do not submerge the return line, preferably use a spray
bar. Some filters come with this. If he sold you a Rena or Eheim, it
will include the spray bar. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks Ben <You're
welcome> 100 gallon tank, mainly filtration...
Tank goal: To keep corals, mushrooms, Caulerpa, and slightly delicate
fish like angels, etc. Yes Bob, I have a little more than 500 pc watts
to keep those corals and algae growing. <Okay> I have bought a 100
gallon tank which has been sitting around for several weeks but I just
can't decide on what type of filtration to use. I thought I had it all
figured out but every fish store I go to disagrees with my idea. <As
long as you agree with yourself... that's all that matters> I am
planning to use an Eheim 2060 (500gph) with a large skimmer and plenty
of live rock (60-80 lbs). If I ever find a simple, easy to understand
sump system I may at sometime in the future add a sump but that probably
will not happen immediately unless you think it is a necessity.
<Good attitude... or at least we're in agreement> Four sales people
at different shops and even Petwarehouse have all said "Get a wet dry"
but I don't want the added problems that are cataloged on your website.
<A sump is a sump... you don't need a wet-dry... I wonder how much money
these folks might make by selling such off the shelf systems...?>
These sales people insist that the Eheim won't be enough filtration
because: 1) it won't turn the tank over as many times as I will need for
a quasi-reef/fish tank, <The live rock is/will be the primary
filter...> 2) gph on canisters decrease every day the canister is
used so the gph is constantly decreasing, <Not so much with a
properly packed Eheim... I speak from decades of using them> 3) one
canister will only take the water from one end of the tank therefore not
cycling as much overall water is needed, and other similar complaints.
<Uh, the tank only has two ends... and you can/should use submersible
pumps, powerheads for more circulation, aeration...> I want a simple,
low maintenance filtration system that is effective (performance and
cost) as well as operating quietly and that will be difficult for me to
misuse. <Your insight astounds me!> Eheim with live rock and a
good skimmer sounds like a winner to me but no one else seems to agree.
<Umm, I do.> I have read lots of info and at this point and have
resigned myself to taking whatever your suggestions) is. <My advice
is, of course to only let only your conscience be your guide... You're
on the/a correct path my friend. Bob Fenner> Thanks once again, David
Dowless Film on surface Hello, <Hey there> I have
cycled my 80 gal tank for three months now and achieved no ammonia or
nitrites, etc. <None perhaps detected... they were expediently
converted, absorbed...> I added 6 Damsels last week and thus began
feeding. I now notice a layer of what appears to be oil/film on the
surface of the water. <Ah, good observation!> It also contains
some debris, maybe from the fish/food... I have a Tunze protein skimmer
and an Eheim canister filter. Is my skimmer working properly? <Likely
yes. A very good unit, manufacturer.> Or do I need to get an Eheim
surface skimmer? <Ah! Excellent choice.> What is this film & why
are the debris not being sucked up by the equipment? <Products,
by-products of chemical/physical activity in your (and all) system, and
resultant from feedings, etc.... No real problem if kept to a minimum...
with "scooping" water from the top (like with a pitcher), or skimming
with a clean, unscented paper towel... or best with the proposed Eheim
addition> I have been feeding some jarred zooplankton, could that be
causing trouble? <To some degree, yes... likely a source of the oil
you're so keenly espying. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> -Sarka |
|