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FAQs on Tap/Source Water Use for Marine Aquariums, Testing
Related Articles: Treating Tap water for
Marine Aquarium Use, Water
Purification Using Reverse Osmosis,
Related FAQs: Treating Tapwater 1,
Treating Tapwater 2, Treating
Tapwater 3, & FAQs on New Water Treatment:
Rationale/Science, Chemicals (Chlorine,
Chloramines, Trihalomethanes...),
Filtrants, Techniques/Tools,
Troubleshooting, Products by
Manufacturer/Brand, DIY Treatment
Chemicals/Tools, &
Reverse Osmosis Filtration, Specific
Gravity, Water Purification Using R.O 1.
RO/DI 2, RO/DI 3,
Nitrates, Water Changes, | 
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Water Quality... source,
/potable and SW use 11/20/09
I got my well water tested by a lab for minerals, to help set up my
filter system for drinking and for my reef tank.
aluminum 0.299 mg/l
antimony <0.500 ug/l
arsenic <0.500 ug/l
barium 0.039 mg/l
beryllium <0.003 mg/l
boron 0.867 mg/l
cadmium <0.100 ug/l
calcium 3.31 mg/l
chromium <0.010 mg/l
cobalt <0.020 mg/l
copper 0,010 mg/l
gold <0.040 mg/l
iron 0.394 mg/l
lanthanum <0.020 mg/l
lead 1.54 ug/l
magnesium 0.332 mg/l
manganese 0.59 mg/l
molybdenum <0.020 mg/l
nickel <0.050 mg/l
phosphorus 0.096 mg/l
potassium <0.050 mg/l
scandium <0.050 mg/l
silicon 3.48 mg/l
silver <0.010 mg/l
sodium 247.0 mg/l
strontium 0.102 mg/l
titanium <0.010 mg/l
tungsten <0.050 mg/l
vanadium <0.010 mg/l
zinc 0.018 mg/l
hardness 9.63 mg/l
ph 7.56
What elements should I target for filtering for my reef tank? I will be
filtering iron, manganese and sodium to meet the guidelines for Canadian
drinking water quality. RO/DI filters produce to <too> much waist
<waste> water, I worry about the waist <waste> because the well is my
only source of water.
<Most of the elements you list are found in seawater, although not in
the same proportions. I'd consider making up an additional water
purification system using the same type of canisters used on RO systems.
Three canisters containing a 5 micron filter, carbon block, and a mixed
resin bed, should provide you with good drinking water by using the
output water from the filtering methods you state above to feed the
canisters. In your reef system use a Poly Filter, this will remove most
heavy metals including copper, and is also a great media for increasing
water quality in fresh and marine systems. You may want to read here.
http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyfilter.html>
thanks Miles
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Top off water and Testing for
RO Water TDS 4/27/09
Bob and the Gang,
<Hello Joe>
Hope all is well.
My 135 G Reef tank loses a lot of water due to evaporation.
I add a fair amount of RO water to top it off weekly.
<Am I to understand you top off the tank once a week? Or do you mean you
lose a lot of water over the course of a week. If you are topping off
only once a week I suggest you try to do it more often, the longer you
wait before topping off the tank, the larger the swings in the specific
gravity of the water your tank will experience>
<There are auto top off devices available to top off the tank for you
and provide a more consistent environment for your tank inhabitants.
Search “ATO” on the Google search box at the bottom of WetWebMedia.>
My question is, should I be adding something to my top off water? Never
thought I had too, but I've read a
couple of places where they recommended adding something to keep the PH
up.
<It is possible to buffer the water, but not necessary, assuming you are
testing and adjusting alkalinity as needed. Just continue adding topping
off your tank with RO water, pH swings will be less noticeable if top
offs are done on a small consistent scale like with an ATO. You can also
aerate your top off water to remove CO2 from it prior to use.>
Also, how can I be sure that my RO unit is working properly (I have the
Coralife Pure-Flo)? Is there something I can use to test the RO water? I
was reading about TDS testing but wasn't sure if that was necessary.
<I would highly recommend testing the Total Dissolved Solids from the
effluent hose of your RO unit. Membranes do lose their potency over time
from normal use, but this can be accelerated depending on what chemicals
your city adds to the water. Testing TDS is one of the most simple ways
of checking the quality of effluent coming from a RO unit, and basic TDS
meters can be had at a very low cost.>
Thanks.
Joe
<Your welcome.
Josh>
Re: Top off water and Testing
for RO Water 4/27/09
Thanks Josh. Yes I'm topping off roughly every week. I usually lose
close to 10 gallons a week! You make a good point about trying to do it
more often to avoid larger swings in specific gravity. I'll definitely
try to
do that.
I'll also look into a TDS tester.
Thanks again.
Joe
<Your welcome, I think you will come to enjoy not carrying full buckets
of water around. Josh>
Hand Held TDS Meter 1/6/08 Dear WWM Crew, First let me
thank you for the knowledge and unselfish time you donate to aquarist in
need. I read this website every day to gain knowledge, the books help
too. <Thank you Sue.> I just thought I would pass along some
information. For everyone who says they can't afford or don't have a TDS
meter. Go to Walgreen's Drug store and located by the Britta Water
Filters you will find a hand held TDS Meter for $14.99. It is made
by HM Digital and is factory calibrated and adjust for temperature.
Armed with this knowledge everyone can afford to have a TDS meter. I
know that this hobby is expensive and can strain the pocket book so I
wanted to let everyone know about a low cost and accurate solution.
Happy Reefing! Sue Marietta, GA <Thank you for sharing this
information. It will be passed along! ScottV.>
What to test for from my well water? Five years ago I had a 125
gallon salt tank. But used it mainly for carnivorous fish. I have been
dreaming of getting into a reef setup. I recently found a great deal.
And have just purchased a 750 gallon tank. I now live with well water
and want to make sure I know what I'm getting out of the ground. I do
plan on getting it tested, but have a few specific questions in regards
to the required tests. My questions are: 1. Which tests do you
consider absolutely necessary since their seems to be and endless amount
of things to test for. <I would consider Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate,
Chlorine, Copper, pH, and Hardness to be necessary tests when
determining whether or not well water is suitable for use in your reef
tank to be.> 2. I would like to know what certain elements in my
water would dictate either my using RO, or RO/DI, or just Kold. I really
do not want to tax my well with what I understand to be a wasteful RO
system. Unless absolutely necessary. <I, personally recommend that
everyone uses an RO/DI system for their reef tank. Many units have lower
waste water to clean water ratios. However, if you feel so inclined to
use your well water, discovering traces of Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate,
Chlorine, or Copper would serve as a red flag, and should deem the well
water unsuitable. Low pH and low hardness are not make-it-or-break-it
factors, but can cause many headaches down the road.> PS. Your site
seems to be the most complete I have found for information. After
reading a ton of previous questions I see their are endless
possibilities with how best to set up systems. <You've hit the nail
on the head.> I thought I had a plan until finding this tonight. Now
I know I better spend a little more time gaining some knowledge before
setting it up. Thanks for your time and expertise. <Glad I
could be of assistance, Mike G> What to test for
from my well water? - II Wow, what a great/quick response. Thank
you. <You're welcome.> Would it be sufficient to just use my RO
when preparing to do a water change? Or is it recommended that you also
leave it running 24 hours a day to aid in filtering the tank? Can you
recommend any manufactures? <What do you mean by "filtering the
tank?" An RO/DI unit takes tap water, or, in your case, well water, and
converts it into a much more reef-appropriate water. You use it to
prepare water for water changes and for top-off, but hooking it up to a
reef as a filter, which I assume you want to do, would convert the
saltwater to freshwater, and waste much of the water. Before you knew
it, your 750 gallon tank would be half full of near fresh water.> I
was told to buy Aqua Medic products. <Which products to buy is
completely your choice.> I'm considering buying: 1. Aqua Medic
Turbo Floater 5000 @ 975 GPH skimmer. 2. Osmotic 4 stage R/O 300 GPD
3. Riff 2000 Wet/Dry Any feeling on these in particular? <1 and 2
look good to me, but I would never personally recommend a wet/dry unit
on a reef tank. It serves only as a nitrate factory.> Thanks again, I
will hold on the questions until I further educate! <No need. This is
a place to get answers and to help you. We don't mind answering your
questions at all, Mike G> Water testing
This question is more for Steve and Anthony (sorry Bob) being from
Pittsburgh do you know where I can take my tap water to get it tested? I
live near Cranberry and would like to know if my tap water is ok to use
straight for filling my tank or not. <actually... your water
authority publishes an annual report and weekly (perhaps daily) ones are
available as well. Usually available just for their asking... do give
them a call. They must lawfully disclose such information I believe. Do
consider that all tap water changes seasonally though... as such, for a
truly tweaked tank... you may still want to consider purified/buffered
water to employ a consistent quality of water for tank use>> Thanks
You all are great and Bob your book is like a bible to me and doesn't go
far from me. Lunch breaks and everything else are spent reading and
rereading trying to soak it all in. but still here I am on the site
trying to learn more. Colleen Thanks in advance Pittsburgh, PA <best
regards and thank you! Anthony> What's On Tap?
(Source Water Testing) Hi guys, <Scott F. your guy today!>
In an effort to get to the source of my nuisance algae problem (brown
slime on live rock and substrate) which seems to be either brown diatom
algae or Cyanobacteria. I am getting my tapwater and tank water
professionally tested. My hobby grade test kits (Hagen and Red Sea) all
say my phosphate, silicate and nitrate levels are really low yet my tank
says otherwise! <Yep- you'd be surprised what happens in an aquarium.
It is entirely possible for a test kit to read undetectable levels of
these undesirable substances, yet still have a tank full of
algae-covered rock and sand. Many of the compounds that fuel nuisance
algae growth get bound up in substrates and rocks, and provide a
continuous nutrient source.> I am taking two samples ( in sterile
containers sent to me by the water consultant) , my tap water alone and
my tank water. I am asking him to test for Phosphate (should it be
for organic, inorganic or total phosphate ??) <Well- could be all of
the above...I'd look into organic phosphate, myself> , silicates and
nitrates. While I am doing this baseline testing is there anything
else I should test for which is important for my FOWLR tank. <Well, I
think that you're covering most of the major nutrients for nuisance
algae outbreaks that are found in source water> His pricing is very
reasonable and I need to know the source of my Cyano slime so I can act
accordingly. THX. <Well, source water is an important source of
these substances, but don't rule out some of the more basic things, such
as your husbandry practices (i.e.; water changes), protein skimming,
feeding habits, etc....All are potential contributors to nuisance algae
blooms...Look beyond the obvious, but don't forget to look at the
"basics" yet again. I'm sure that you'll get to the bottom of your
problem! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
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