Water Quality... source, /potable and SW use  11/20/09
I got my well water tested by a lab for minerals, to help set up my filter system for drinking and for my reef tank.
aluminum 0.299 mg/l
antimony <0.500 ug/l
arsenic <0.500 ug/l
barium 0.039 mg/l
beryllium <0.003 mg/l
boron 0.867 mg/l
cadmium <0.100 ug/l
calcium 3.31 mg/l
chromium <0.010 mg/l
cobalt <0.020 mg/l
copper 0,010 mg/l
gold <0.040 mg/l
iron 0.394 mg/l
lanthanum <0.020 mg/l
lead 1.54 ug/l
magnesium 0.332 mg/l
manganese 0.59 mg/l
molybdenum <0.020 mg/l
nickel <0.050 mg/l
phosphorus 0.096 mg/l
potassium <0.050 mg/l
scandium <0.050 mg/l
silicon 3.48 mg/l
silver <0.010 mg/l
sodium 247.0 mg/l
strontium 0.102 mg/l
titanium <0.010 mg/l
tungsten <0.050 mg/l
vanadium <0.010 mg/l
zinc 0.018 mg/l
hardness 9.63 mg/l
ph 7.56
What elements should I target for filtering for my reef tank? I will be filtering iron, manganese and sodium to meet the guidelines for Canadian drinking water quality. RO/DI filters produce to <too> much waist <waste> water, I worry about the waist <waste> because the well is my only source of water.
<Most of the elements you list are found in seawater, although not in the same proportions. I'd consider making up an additional water purification system using the same type of canisters used on RO systems. Three canisters containing a 5 micron filter, carbon block, and a mixed resin bed, should provide you with good drinking water by using the output water from the filtering methods you state above to feed the canisters. In your reef system use a Poly Filter, this will remove most heavy metals including copper, and is also a great media for increasing water quality in fresh and marine systems. You may want to read here.
http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyfilter.html>
thanks Miles
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Top off water and Testing for RO Water TDS 4/27/09
Bob and the Gang,
<Hello Joe>
Hope all is well.
My 135 G Reef tank loses a lot of water due to evaporation.
I add a fair amount of RO water to top it off weekly.
<Am I to understand you top off the tank once a week? Or do you mean you lose a lot of water over the course of a week. If you are topping off only once a week I suggest you try to do it more often, the longer you wait before topping off the tank, the larger the swings in the specific gravity of the water your tank will experience>
<There are auto top off devices available to top off the tank for you and provide a more consistent environment for your tank inhabitants. Search “ATO” on the Google search box at the bottom of WetWebMedia.>
My question is, should I be adding something to my top off water? Never thought I had too, but I've read a
couple of places where they recommended adding something to keep the PH up.
<It is possible to buffer the water, but not necessary, assuming you are testing and adjusting alkalinity as needed. Just continue adding topping off your tank with RO water, pH swings will be less noticeable if top offs are done on a small consistent scale like with an ATO. You can also aerate your top off water to remove CO2 from it prior to use.>
Also, how can I be sure that my RO unit is working properly (I have the Coralife Pure-Flo)? Is there something I can use to test the RO water? I was reading about TDS testing but wasn't sure if that was necessary.
<I would highly recommend testing the Total Dissolved Solids from the effluent hose of your RO unit. Membranes do lose their potency over time from normal use, but this can be accelerated depending on what chemicals your city adds to the water. Testing TDS is one of the most simple ways of checking the quality of effluent coming from a RO unit, and basic TDS meters can be had at a very low cost.>
Thanks.
Joe
<Your welcome.
Josh>

Re: Top off water and Testing for RO Water 4/27/09
Thanks Josh. Yes I'm topping off roughly every week. I usually lose close to 10 gallons a week! You make a good point about trying to do it more often to avoid larger swings in specific gravity. I'll definitely try to
do that.
I'll also look into a TDS tester.
Thanks again.
Joe
<Your welcome, I think you will come to enjoy not carrying full buckets of water around. Josh>

Hand Held TDS Meter 1/6/08
Dear WWM Crew,
First let me thank you for the knowledge and unselfish time you donate to aquarist in need. I read this website every day to gain knowledge, the books help too.
<Thank you Sue.>
I just thought I would pass along some information. For everyone who says they can't afford or don't have a TDS meter. Go to Walgreen's Drug store and located by the Britta Water Filters you will find a hand held TDS Meter
for $14.99. It is made by HM Digital and is factory calibrated and adjust for temperature. Armed with this knowledge everyone can afford to have a TDS meter.
I know that this hobby is expensive and can strain the pocket book so I wanted to let everyone know about a low cost and accurate solution.
Happy Reefing!
Sue
Marietta, GA
<Thank you for sharing this information. It will be passed along! ScottV.>

What to test for from my well water?
Five years ago I had a 125 gallon salt tank. But used it mainly for carnivorous fish. I have been dreaming of getting into a reef setup. I recently found a great deal. And have just purchased a 750 gallon tank. I now live with well water and want to make sure I know what I'm getting out of the ground. I do plan on getting it tested, but have a few specific questions in regards to the required tests.
My questions are:
1. Which tests do you consider absolutely necessary since their seems to be and endless amount of things to test for.
<I would consider Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Chlorine, Copper, pH, and Hardness to be necessary tests when determining whether or not well water is suitable for use in your reef tank to be.>
2. I would like to know what certain elements in my water would dictate either my using RO, or RO/DI, or just Kold. I really do not want to tax my well with what I understand to be a wasteful RO system. Unless absolutely necessary.
<I, personally recommend that everyone uses an RO/DI system for their reef tank. Many units have lower waste water to clean water ratios. However, if you feel so inclined to use your well water, discovering traces of Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Chlorine, or Copper would serve as a red flag, and should deem the well water unsuitable. Low pH and low hardness are not make-it-or-break-it factors, but can cause many headaches down the road.>
PS. Your site seems to be the most complete I have found for information.  After reading a ton of previous questions I see their are endless possibilities with how best to set up systems.
<You've hit the nail on the head.>
I thought I had a plan until finding this tonight. Now I know I better spend a little more time gaining some knowledge before setting it up.  Thanks for your time and expertise.
<Glad I could be of assistance, Mike G>

What to test for from my well water? - II
Wow, what a great/quick response. Thank you.
<You're welcome.>
Would it be sufficient to just use my RO when preparing to do a water change? Or is it recommended that you also leave it running 24 hours a day to aid in filtering the tank? Can you recommend any manufactures?
<What do you mean by "filtering the tank?" An RO/DI unit takes tap water, or, in your case, well water, and converts it into a much more reef-appropriate water. You use it to prepare water for water changes and for top-off, but hooking it up to a reef as a filter, which I assume you want to do, would convert the saltwater to freshwater, and waste much of the water. Before you knew it, your 750 gallon tank would be half full of near fresh water.>
I was told to buy Aqua Medic products.
<Which products to buy is completely your choice.>
I'm considering buying:
1. Aqua Medic Turbo Floater 5000 @ 975 GPH skimmer.
2. Osmotic 4 stage R/O 300 GPD
3. Riff 2000 Wet/Dry
Any feeling on these in particular?
<1 and 2 look good to me, but I would never personally recommend a wet/dry unit on a reef tank. It serves only as a nitrate factory.>
Thanks again, I will hold on the questions until I further educate!
<No need. This is a place to get answers and to help you. We don't mind answering your questions at all, Mike G>