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FAQs on Tap/Source Water Use for Marine Aquariums, Treatment
Techniques & Tools Related
Articles: Treating Tap water for Marine
Aquarium Use, Water Purification
Using Reverse Osmosis,
Related FAQs: Treating Tapwater 1,
Treating Tapwater 2, Treating
Tapwater 3, & FAQs on New Water Treatment:
Rationale/Science, Chemicals (Chlorine,
Chloramines, Trihalomethanes...),
Filtrants, Testing,
Troubleshooting, Products by
Manufacturer/Brand, DIY Treatment
Chemicals/Tools, &
Reverse Osmosis Filtration, Specific
Gravity, Water Purification Using R.O 1.
RO/DI 2, RO/DI
3, Nitrates, Water
Changes, | .JPG) Mmm, may be that nothing is called for in using your source water...
maybe storing it ahead of use... perhaps dechloramination...,
contactor/s. Maybe RO, DI...
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Water Preparation, 3/11/09
Hi guys, <Hello> I have a quick question about water preparation. I read
on your site that water should be aerated for a while before using it to make
salt water. I leave a pump in the fresh water container, which I circulate for
at least 24 hours. Then, I pump the water (using same pump) into the salt-water
container, which has a heater, another pump and an air stone all running. I add
my salt and leave for about 2 weeks (basically until my next water change). Is
this acceptable? <Sounds fine to me.> Is there a reason why an air stone
is better than a pump? <Not really, just looking for water movement.> Do I
need an air stone in both containers? <Not unless you like the bubble and
related salt creep.> Thanks so much for all of your help. Jason
<Welcome> <Chris> Awesome! Thanks so much! <Welcome> <Chris>
RO/DI vs. Alkaline Water Ionizer
3/7/09 Good morning - thanks in advance for answering my
questions... <Welcome in advance, hello Jeff.> Is there any benefit to
using Alkaline Water Ionizers instead of RO/DI units? Which would you recommend?
<The RO/DI, no benefit to the ionizer.> If I go with a RO/DI for my 75 gallon
Reef should I also get a unit with UV? <No reason to, you do not have a need
to sterilize the water afterwards.> If RO - what GPD production would you
recommend to keep up with top-offs and water changes. <Not much, of course it
depends on your tank size and configuration, but the smallest units are more
than capable of keeping up with 99% of the home tanks out there.> Is there an
under the sink unit that can also serve for drinking water you'd recommend? A
Seller or website? <Check out Reefgeek.com. They sell nice units you can add
a drinking water kit to for little money.> Again thank you very much!
<Welcome.> Regards, Jeff Wagner <Scott V.> RO/DI vs.
Alkaline Water Ionizer Oh, a bit more to add I mean to. These water
ionizers are not at all the same as RO filters...they alter the water chemistry
at best. Many claim they are just "snake water" filters. They in no way purify
the water anything like an RO filter. Scott V.
Hand Held TDS Meter 1/6/08
Dear WWM Crew, First let me thank you for the knowledge and unselfish time
you donate to aquarist in need. I read this website every day to gain knowledge,
the books help too. <Thank you Sue.> I just thought I would pass along
some information. For everyone who says they can't afford or don't have a TDS
meter. Go to Walgreen's Drug store and located by the Britta Water Filters you
will find a hand held TDS Meter for $14.99. It is made by HM Digital and is
factory calibrated and adjust for temperature. Armed with this knowledge
everyone can afford to have a TDS meter. I know that this hobby is expensive
and can strain the pocket book so I wanted to let everyone know about a low cost
and accurate solution. Happy Reefing! Sue Marietta, GA <Thank you
for sharing this information. It will be passed along! ScottV.>
Purified Water 12/4/08 Hello Crew: <Hello Tom> Great
site with a wealth of information! <Thank you.> I am trying to
understand what I really need to be sure the water I add to my tank is
correct. What I have is: 47 gallon saltwater bow tank 3 fish
(pair of clowns & yellow tank) various hermits & snails 2 pieces
of candy cane coral 1 frogs spawn coral some purple & some red
mushrooms green polyps Yellow polyps To purify my well water I
use single cartridge system called "Tap Water Filter" by API. <It
works, but gets expensive.> What I would like to know is which system
will provide the best water? Some have 1, 2, 3, or 5 different style
cartridges and stages. I email one company and asked them a similar
question and the answer I received was "this one seems to be our best
seller". I was not looking for an answer like that. Anyways I hope
you can help. <What you are using now is just a deionization filter.
They work great, but get expensive to feed raw tap water to. The media
just gets exhausted too quickly for the cost. Look at a 3 stage RO,
sediment/carbon/RO or a four stage RO/DI, sediment/carbon/RO/DI. Either
will suit your purpose fine, with the RO/DI it adds the deionization
stage you are using now at the end. By feeding it water that has already
gone through the RO filter first it lasts much longer, much more cost
effective per gallon. There is really no functional difference from one
brand to another, nearly all use the same universal 10" cartridges. This
all assumes your tap water needs any treatment beyond dechlorinating.>
Regards, Tom <Have fun, Scott V.>
Re: Purified Water Hello Scott: Thank you for the
clarification. I knew on of the crew would be able to help. Regards,
Tom <Welcome my friend, have a good night. Scott V.>
Tap Water for Reef 8/22/08 Hi all, <Marc> I have a question
to do with treating tap water. I have a 75 gallon saltwater tank with
some soft corals, and want to add a few LPSs corals. I do a 15% water
change every Friday. I was just mixing the water right before adding it
to the tank. I use Reef Crystals, and I was using Prime for a
conditioner. <I personally would steer away from using any
conditioner.> It was going fine for a while, then when I was at my
LFS, I mentioned I wasn't getting much coralline algae growth, and I
keep the calcium and hardness up where it needs to be. I was told it's
cause I use tap water, so I started using RO water. But between weekly
changes and top of water, it's been tough to keep making trips to the
LFS. <Tap water is not necessarily a bad thing. Were there any test
to justify the switch?> If I fill up the buckets, and use Prime, and
let them set for the week prior uncovered, should I be all right at that
point? <I would skip the Prime and just let it sit for a few days to
a week. Do some basic tests on the water to see if it is suitable, most
those for a reef tank. Phosphate, nitrate, nitrite, etc.> Or do I
really need to add powerheads to the buckets? Also should I use
something else to get rid of the chlorine? <The aging will rid the
chlorine. I do urge you to actually test the water to see if there is
reason to switch. If there is, your own small RO unit will be more
economical and easier in the long run. Do also test your magnesium and
phosphate levels in your mixed water, these, along with lighting can
have an impact on coralline growth.> Thanks for the help, Marc
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Tap Water for Reef 8/22/08 Scott, Thanks for the help.
<Welcome.> I'm going to test for everything right now, if everything
is ok other than the chlorine, I'm just going to continue to use the tap
water. If I let it sit for a week, do you think it would be ok without a
powerhead? <The chlorine will dissipate, although it will faster
with a powerhead. The powerhead will also help in oxygenation and mixing
in the salt. Maybe just run it the last day or two of the aging.>
Also, how do you feel about Purple Up? <A product not worth using
IMO. If your Ca is low, raise it. If your Mg is low, raise it. Adding an
"all inclusive" product will eventually lead to disaster.> Thanks
again, Marc <Welcome, Scott V.>
Tap Water Treatment – 12/07/07 Hey Eric what's up? <<Hiya
Don!>> I have a tap water question, my tap has 1.0 ppm ammonia, no
nitrite or nitrate or phosphate. <<Okay>> If I were to fill a 90
gallon can and throw Amquel + a power head and salt for a week, would
all bad stuff dissipate and would it be ok to use for water changes?
<<The Amquel+ will remove any Chlorine/Chloramines/Ammonia, and may
detoxify other elements, but will not remove “all bad stuff”…if present.
That said, I see no reason not to give this a try. How your tank
responds will answer your question>> I don't have a RO unit and
getting tired of carrying buckets. Or anything you can think of…would be
grateful. <<I do prefer RO/DI for water prep…but give your idea a
try>> Also my fish that had Crypt are clear and the 22nd will be 6
week protocol to go back into 210 tank. <<Excellent>> Plus I went
out and bought a 90 gallon hospital/quarantine tank <<Ahh…lots of
room!>> Thanks again for all the help; it's been fun even through the
rough times. <<Am looking forward to your (good) progress reports.
EricR>> Re:
Tap Water Treatment - 12/09/07 Eric, <<Don>> Ok, bad stuff
can mean a lot and I thank you for the quick response. <<Indeed…and
quite welcome>> What exactly bad stuff would I be worried about
without getting into all sorts of crazy water chemistry. <<Much of
what may be in your tap water can not be tested by you/hobbyists, though
you can contact your water company and ask for a written analysis…and
you might be surprised at what you find (heavy metals, pesticides,
etc.). And though these will likely be in miniscule amounts, what is
deemed safe for “us” does not hold true/can still be problematical to
your marine system>> I do know Kordon makes a few water conditioner
products beside Amquel +. <<But of little to no use to you/your
purpose. There are no magic elixirs out there… It is my opinion you and
your system will be happier in the long run with some type of filtration
unit (RO/DI) to pre-filter your tap water before use. Do let me know if
you wish to discuss these further, and/or read here and among the
associated links:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/h2opurifiers.htm . EricR>>
R2: Tap Water Treatment - 12/09/07 What about adding things like
carbon to premix? <<Can’t hurt/will help to prefilter your tap water
through carbon…but is still no replacement for a good filtration unit>>
I'm really not trying to be lazy because I’ve been traveling for RO
water, but my health is on a decline and carrying 12 buckets 2 times a
week is rough. <<Mmm, sorry to hear…and yes, much agreed. I automated
my own system so a 50 gallon water change takes about 15 minutes. A turn
of a valve to drain…a push of a button to fill…fantastic…>> I am big
into water changes 10-20 %. <<Excellent…is the single best thing you
can do for your system>> If not, if you know of a great company that
has RO unit at reasonable cost send the link please. <<Ah yes…check
these guys out…http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_di_systems.htm >> I
really don't know much about them. <<Do let me know if I can help
with this>> Thanks Again. <<Cheers, Eric Russell>>
R3: Tap Water Treatment - 12/10/07 Eric, <<Don>> Nice RO
filter. . $124.00 - OCEAN WAVE SHELL FOUR STAGE 75 GPD REVERSE OSMOSIS
SYSTEM... <<A nice unit, agreed...though for $10 more you should
consider the five-stage unit with the DI cartridge>> How the heck do
you install it? LMAO <<The units are fairly easy/straightforward to
install. You can either “tap in” to a cold water line much as you would
to install an ice-maker feed line (make sure you have a valve in-line to
shut-off flow when not in use), or, if a faucet is within reach, you can
use a faucet adapter to connect the infeed line (adapter may come with
the unit, else will have to be purchased separately). You can check with
the vendor to be sure, but the unit will likely come with written
instructions for installation. Also, I am familiar with this vendor and
I know they will do all they can to assist you with the install or to
troubleshoot any problems that may arise. EricR>>
Dechlorinators 12/10/05 Hi, <Hello.> I was wondering
if using a water conditioner is important when doing a water change on a
saltwater tank? I use to use one as a safe guard against chlorine but
never really knew if I was wasting my money or not. <Depends on the
source water. If you are using tap, then yes a dechlorinator is
necessary, if this RODI water, other than aerating it, nothing is
necessary.> Thanks, <Welcome.> Scott <Adam J.> Boiling
Water For Aquarium Use 01-01-06 Hi crew. <Hello>
Just a quick question about water treatment. I have a 38-gallon reef
system with various pieces of coral, live rock and crushed coral for
substrate. The system has been running for over 6 months. Every thing
in the tank in thriving including a bunch green hair algae that’s been
growing on my live rock for a while now. The algae never really
bothered me, as a matter of fact; it kind of made the reef system look
better. But it’s getting to the point know where it’s beginning to grow
very tall and I have to keep trimming it every week. I’ve been saving
my pennies to buy an RO water filter. Hopefully that will remedy my
algae problem. My LFS suggested that I boil my tap water and store
it. They stated that boiling tap water works as good as an RO
unit. What do you think? <That is completely false. RO
units remove organics and heavy metals from the water. Boiling your
water will actually concentrate those elements as the water evaporates.
A good example would be the ring inside a coffee pot, usually a
calcium/lime build up. Boiling your water will do nothing for your algae
issue. RO will help, but you will also need to make sure your tank has
undetectable nitrates and phosphates to "snuff" out the algae.> Your
advise will be greatly appreciated. Elvin – Milwaukee, WI
<Glad to help, Travis> Dechlorinators etc.
Hi, <Hello!> I was wondering about the chemicals used to detoxify
tap water. I have a marine fish/reef tank and I use the chemical such
as Amquel to detoxify the chloramines and chlorine for the water I use
for changes and topping off. Now I heard these are not good and contain
some type of polymers and other bad chemicals, is this correct? <To
my knowledge, dechlorinators do not contain anything harmful. However,
you could achieve the same result by aerating the water in a container
for a week or more. If you give the water oxygen and turbulence, the bad
chlorine and chloramines will dissipate on their own. Dechlorinators
don't remove anything from the water...they simply neutralize it. For
more information, do a word search containing the word "dechlorinaters"
at Wetwebmedia.com For a reef tank you will likely need RO/DI water.>
And another question I have is with the bio-balls in my wet/dry filter.
Do these cause the nitrates to raise? <Yes> I've heard of people
taking the bio-balls out if so what do I use? <Live rock inside the
main display to the tune of 1-2 lbs per gallon and/or continue to use
the wet/dry. Just submerge the balls instead of allowing the water to
trickle over them. Thank you, Tim <You are most welcome! David
Dowless> Definitive answer on chloramine? As I have
learned on your site (along with a multitude of other things...thanks),
I have been aging my water in a trash can for about a week before using
it for water changes. Because of the chloramine in tap water, I have
also been using a product to detoxify it. I know I have read that such
products are unnecessary if water is aged for about a week; however,
being a novice aquarist with a sponge for a brain I'm reading everything
I can. What I have read is: ["1) Chloramine is present in toxic
quantities in virtually/actually all city water supplies, 2) It takes a
good week or so to "dissipate" by "setting", "aeration", "hopeful
wishing", or other such means"...] but also I have read ["chlorine will
dissipate in open air but chloramine never will... a chemical bond that
must be broken (with a de-Ammoniating product.. most conditioners)"]
What is the definitive answer on this? Thanks. --Charlie <All are
"so" except the last statement. Chloramine will/does dissipate with
exposure to the air, aeration in a week. You can get/use a
chlorine/chloramine test kit (colorimetric assay) and check this out for
yourself if you'd like. Bob Fenner> Re: he says...she
says...know a good divorce lawyer? (Water Changes) Greetings!
Please settle a dispute before we go to blows. =) We're planning a
water change for next weekend on our 90g reef. I had planned to go to
the store and buy about 15g of purified water and mix it with Instant
Ocean and aerate it the night before we do the water change. My husband
says to save the money on the purified water...he's saying if we fill up
2 5g buckets of water on Thursday and leave the tops off, that all the
impurities and chlorine and garbage will "burn off' in time for the
water change. I've read your faq but haven't seen this argument
before. I guess the other option would be to go to the LFS and buy some
of their water? Any ideas are appreciated. Can you come out here to
California and help? heh heh <For the most part your hubster is
partly right this time. Most everyone can "get as much benefit" as
they're going to by pre-mixing and storing their synthetic... made with
simple tapwater... by mixing, circulating it for about a week before
use. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water4maruse.htm and the linked FAQs (at
top, in blue) beyond. Bob Fenner> Have a great weekend...go raiders!
mo Garden hose use Any reason why I should NOT use a new
clean garden hose (with the ends cut off) to transfer salt water to my
display tank when I do a water change? Thanks, Michael <Some
have a "funny" vinyl smell and taste to them when new, but all I've ever
seen were labeled as safe for moving water for human consumption, so I
don't see a difficulty. Bob Fenner>
Garden hose toxicity
Thanks Bob! I noticed that most garden hoses have a Calif Prop65
warning that they contain chemicals known to cause cancer in
humans. But I suspect I would have died as a child if that were truly a
big issue. Michael <Ha! I suspect I would as well. Also, if one
reads, writes on the Internet (long enough), am very sure they will die!
Bob Fenner>
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