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FAQs on Sebae Anemone Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles:
Heteractis crispa/Sebae Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones,
Anemones, Cnidarians,
Colored/Dyed Anemones, Related
FAQs:
Sebae Anemones 1,
Sebae Anemones 2, Sebae Anemones 3,
Sebae Identification, Sebae Behavior,
Sebae Compatibility, Sebae Selection,
Sebae Systems, Sebae Disease,
Sebae Reproduction,
Anemones,
Anemones 2,
Caribbean Anemones,
Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and
Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting,
Anemone Identification, Anemone
Compatibility,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, Anemone
Feeding, Heteractis
malu, | 
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Sebae 'success' story 8/6/08 Hey, just wanted to
write in agreeing with Mike Giangrasso's force feeding advice in your
article on sebae anemones
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/heteraccrispa.htm).
Almost a year ago I received a specimen in pretty bad shape from an
online vendor, which I was sure wasn't going to make it (almost
completely extruded stomach, wouldn't attach, deflated with completely
gaping mouth, the works). The animal was completely bleached, wasn't
sticky, and didn't eat on it's own (for probably 2+ months), and had a
gaping mouth (for days). I force fed it with Selcon, Cyclops-eeze, and
minced raw shrimp every other day for about a month, and it recovered to
the point where it ate on it's own. I used a turkey baster inside the
animals mouth, and *slowly* injected the mixture into its stomach. The
animal is now doing well. :)Just an FYI and an update for the article,
perhaps.<Thank you for this>How's sunny CA? Galveston, TX just got a
tropical storm, as you probably know. Mosquito heaven :( What are you
travel plans for mid-August? Take care, Mike <Am out in Hawaii till
the 19th... with SaraM, ScottV et ux... Big Wave Dave and Jamie... and
many other fine friends. Wish you were here. Bob Fenner>
Bleached Sebae Anemone – 3/10/07 <Brenda here to help.>
Reading all the info you have provided. Thanks. <You’re welcome.>
I see that "regular feedings" of a "meaty" substance is crucial for an
unhealthy, bleached Sebae. How often is regular? <Regular feedings
are always crucial for this anemone. Since yours in bleached I would
feed every two days to start with. If the anemone recovers you can feed
twice a week.> And how much of what do you recommend? <Try
feeding silversides soaked in Selcon. Portions should be smaller than
its mouth. Gently drop the food near its mouth. If it is regurgitating
the food, try an even smaller piece.> We have a completely bleached
Sebae that is not looking too good. <I can imagine. Was it bleached
when you purchased it? If not, you need to figure out what caused it to
bleach. It could possibly be caused from lack of lighting or poor water
quality.> We are very new to this hobby and unfortunately were told
this was a "fairly easy" anemone to have. <This anemone is
considered difficult to keep. You have been misinformed. Your tank
needs to be well established to keep this anemone, six months minimum, a
year preferable.> We have had it for several weeks, feeding it
Cyclop-eeze 1-2x/wk. <Cyclop-eeze alone is not
adequate. I personally do not use it for anemones. I would stick to
the silversides for now. Then you can move on to other meaty foods such
as krill, Mysis shrimp, or raw shrimp, keeping silversides as the
primary food.> It hasn't attached to anything yet. It
seems to be trying to attach to the front glass (which is really not
where we want it. <Anemones will go where they are most
comfortable. I recommend leaving it alone at this point.> We have a
65 gal. tank by the way. It changes size almost daily, getting smaller
for the most part. <That doesn’t sound good. Keep your water
parameters perfect.> It shrivels a lot and at one point completely
closed up with no tentacles showing but reopened later in the
day. Please just give as best you can some specific care instructions
to try and save our first attempt at anemones. <What type of
lighting do you have? Metal halide lighting is best.> A little more
info - we also have a blenny, goby, percula clown (that has no interest
in the anemone), and a bright red shrimp. Along with a star polyp and
daisy polyp. Some small snails and 1 large snail. We keep temp. around
79 degrees and water quality is good. We add purple up daily and a
calcium supplement, flakes for the fish. <I would stop
using the purple up. Many have experienced problems using it. Make
sure your salinity is at 1.026, and target a pH of 8.2. Also make sure
you are testing calcium and alkalinity before dosing. Please be sure
you research all of your livestock before purchase.> Signed,
drowning in tank info. <Good luck with your anemone! Brenda>
Sebae Anemone Let me start by saying that your site is the
best site I have seen for aquarium junkies such as myself and I
thank you for that. <Thank you, WE all owe it to Bob> This is
the anemone I purchased at the LFS. I think it is a sebae but not
for sure, I sent along two different pictures to show what it looked
like when I got it and what it looks like now. <Only one came
through> <Judging by the one picture I got to open I would
say you're correct, this is a sebae.> It seems to be doing fine
and is turning a light brown which I read is a good thing. <Yes
it is gaining zooxanthellae algae which are photosynthetic and help
to feed the anemone.> It seems to turn darker brown at times but
stays a lighter brown or tan most of the time. <This is normal
and is fine.> I have been feeding it small silver sides. I
recently asked another LFS what else I can feed it and they told me
to feed DT's Phytoplankton and give a couple drops of Coralife's
Invertebrate Target Food every other day. My question is that when I
feed the target food the anemone opens its mouth real wide and in
the area where I place the drops the tentacles seem to shrink up and
turn dark purple, they only do that for a few seconds and then
return to normal. Does that seem right... <I am not sure, as I
have not used this product. The anemone needs fine meaty foods like
silversides and maybe some shrimp or other meaty foods that are
finely diced or in frozen cube form, let them break apart in a bowl
for the frozen cubes then use a turkey baster, or use a powerhead on
low and put the cube on the intake port and as it break up it will
blow out near the anemone and the current will get it there.>
...or does the anemone not like the target food? My other question
is if I feed the phytoplankton is that enough to support the anemone
or do I still need to feed silver side etc...? <Feed the
silversides every 3-4 days or at least weekly, and you don't need
the phytoplankton. Anemones need meaty foods to survive.> Thanks
in advance for the help... Mike <No Problem. Justin (Jager)> | 
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Sebae Anemone Follow-up Thank you for the quick response to my
email, <No Problem> but I still don't understand the reaction of
the anemone when I give it the couple drops of target food. <Well It
changes color or its reactions when it is stimulated by something on its
tentacles.> I will not feed the phytoplankton anymore and resume the
silversides. Do I still give the drops of Invertebrate Target Food?
<I would not unless you notice a difference without it. that target food
is probably too small to really feed the anemone. I'd just stick to the
silversides and lots of light.> Thanks Mike <Justin (Jager)>
Sebae Anemone won't eat 1/30/05 Morning, I've read here that when
fed finely diced ocean meats anemone will sting and gather it into his
mouth. My sebae won't. It will wrap around it but let's it go. <no
worries... just experiment with different sized meats (finer or more
coarse) and different varieties. Also try some Cyclop-eeze. Cnidarians
like your anemone are often very picky about exact prey and particle
sizes and textures/types> We also made the ignorant mistake of
getting a yellow one (I know now). <this is common my friend. I
understand> It has regained some brown. <ooh, very good to read!>
This morning it was upside down after staying in one place for a week.
It is the only anemone in the tank with some polyps and a coral
beauty.70 lbs live rock and sand with lots of copepods. <the latter
will help this anemones indeed> Nitrates are coming down as I slowly
remove bio balls, other parameters are OK. <all good... and no
worries about a small amount of nitrates - this will feed the anemone a
little bit> It now is about 12 inches from the light which is 335
watts PC. Is there anyway to help add beneficial zooxanthellae
algae? <persistence here mostly. And feeding at the same time every
day is quite helpful for getting the creature into a feeding rhythm>
Any other care tips? <adding a bit (a teaspoon) of thawed frozen pack
juice (or tuna juice) to the water 15-30 minutes before feeding meats
may help stimulate a better feeding response> Thank you , this is a
great help esp. to us rookies. <it is our purpose for being here my
friend. Kudos to you for your efforts to save this anemone. Best of
luck! Anthony> Sebae anemone Hi, I have a 125
tank with LR,300 Watts (HQI MH) it has white color. Is that good? <if
the lamps are between 6500K and 10,000K in color, yes> I will add a
sebae anemone next week . <brown with dark purple tips only... not
white or yellow specimens (very unhealthy).> I was wondering is it
possible to feed him a frozen dried food (brine shrimp). <not at all
recommended... ideal foods are very finely minced meaty foods of marine
origin Mysids, shrimp, krill, etc. Please do research more about this
anemone in the FAQs and articles on this our site www.wetwebmedia.com>
I have a very good water condition. Is there any thing else I should
worry about? Thank you. <so much info here on this anemone... read
articles on feeding, lighting, dyed specimens, etc. best regards,
Anthony> Sebae & clown fish follow up Hi Anthony, it's
Kathy again, <Greeting! Anthony> Just thought you'd like to know
that my Sebae anemone seems to be improving. <Outstanding!> It
has embedded itself in the live sand that I have in my tank and seems to
be coloring up a wee bit now. It is turning light beige, hopefully brown
later. The base has a dark color, like there is something dark inside.
(Zooxanthellae, hope this is how you spell it) <all very good signs
that the zooxanthellae <wink> are returning> When I said it moved in
my last E-mail to you I meant that it would open and close it's
tentacles and puff itself up when it eats. It only moved to find it's
spot in my tank when I first got it. At present it has fluffed out its
tentacles so it is a nice shape, NO mouth gaping thankfully.
<ahhh...very good> Bozo, my clown is very protective of it. He is
like a cat with catnip, I swear!! It is so funny how he loves this
thing. I have noticed that when I feed the anemone with a baster full of
minced food that my clown will steal some of it. Any ideas on how I can
prevent Bozo from taking my anemones food? <probably no great
harm...I suspect the anemone will get enough (please don't overfeed to
compensate)...the anemone will eventually get it anyway when the clown
passes waste> I have tried to feed the anemone at the same time I
feed the fish, but the anemone is a bit slow to close around it and Bozo
is right there to pluck it out. I feed the anemone once every three
days, for now anyway till I see how it is doing. Hope this is not too
much. <not at all...perhaps a little more even> I am curious too,
how long should I leave my lights on for the anemone each day? I leave
them on for 8 hours is this enough, too much? (minimum for
fluorescents 8-12 hours and keep bulbs fresh (changed every 6-10 months
for photosynthetic animals> Thanks for all your help :) I am learning
so much!!!! <keep learning and pass your wisdom on to others in kind.
Anthony> Kathy
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