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FAQs about Commercial & Custom Tanks for Marine Systems:
Materials Related Articles:
Size Doesn’t Always Matter!
Thoughts on the Desire to Create Bigger Marine Aquariums By Scott
Fellman, Making Your Own Tanks,
Sumps, Designer Marine tanks, stands and
covers, Aquarium Repair, Marine
System Components, Canopies,
Covers & Lighting Fixtures,
Related FAQs: Tanks, Stands, Covers,
Custom Aquariums, Stands, Covers..., FAQs
on Commercial, Custom Tank: Design,
Shape, Tools,
Location,
By Make/Brand/Manufacturer Name,
DIY Tanks, Sumps 1,
DIY
Tanks/Sumps 2, DIY Tanks/Sumps 3, DIY
Tanks/Sumps 4,
& DIY Tanks, Sumps 1,
DIY
Tanks/Sumps 2, DIY Tanks/Sumps 3, DIY
Tanks/Sumps 4,
& FAQs on DIY Tank & Sump : Design,
Shape/Size,
Materials,
Tools/Construction/Sealants,
Plumbing... DIY
Acrylic Tanks, DIY Glass Tanks,
DIY Wood Tanks,
DIY Other Material Tanks...
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Pros/Cons to using all materials... Ask... how long will the
material last, the seams stay strong? How easy does it scratch, fatigue? How
simple is it to repair this? What is the difference in cost now, versus resale
value later? What about clarity? Thermal insulation? |
Tempered Glass Panels…Just On
The Bottom? – 03/18/08
Hi Eric,
<<Hey Linda!>>
If a glass tank reads on the bottom: "the bottom of this tank is tempered glass
- do not drill" - does this mean the sides are not?
<<In my experience, yes…especially if this is an ‘All-Glass’ tank. Most any
non-custom glass tank produced today of 75g or more will have a tempered bottom
panel, at the least. And as I understand it, tank manufacturers are required to
label all panels that are constructed of tempered glass. So if the tank is new,
and the side panels are not labeled as “tempered-glass,” then it’s a good bet
they are not. But (here comes the disclaimer [grin]), the best assurance is to
contact the manufacturer re>>
Thanks – Linda
<<Any time. EricR>>
DIY FRP Panel- tank
construction 12/23/07
Hello to all, I enjoy the website as do many others.
My question for today ; I am in the planning stages of a fish room. I am
planning a 500 gallon reef 32" tall as well as 16, 14" tall, fish holding tanks,
coral grow out tanks, sumps, refugiums, etc...
<Wow, nice!>
I was planning on plywood / glass front tanks, but I am now trying to find info
on the use of FRP panels with glass fronts.
I can't seem to find any info on bonding techniques for FRP.
<Specialized FRP adhesives, basically fiberglass them together.
Ultimately I would check with the manufacturer of the specific panel you intend
to use for recommendations. These panels sometimes use different composites in
them. Some will not yield a good bond (such as polypropylene).>
I would like to learn more about this method so I can build bigger tanks this
way in the future possibly using acrylic sheet for the front panels in the
future.
Thanks for your time!
Thank You
Mark Collier
<I have never seen or heard of FRP panels being used in this application, could
work. It will be very expensive for the thickness you will need. For my money I
would stick with the plywood. Check out the link below for more info.
Hope this helps, Scott V.>
http://books.google.com/books?id=44hO4PM-gegC&pg=PA156&lpg=PA156
&dq=frp+bonding&source=web&ots=mex75TdwrM&sig
=l9FEUVlMd2nHM7mAJUcPm6YL64Q#PPA145,M1
Fiberglass tank 11/28/07
WWM crew,
<Hello Mark>
I apologize for asking a question that might be somewhere in your vast vault of
knowledge, but to no prevail I could not find what I was looking for. I will be
opening my own coral business featuring LPS, SPS, Clams and inverts.
I was wondering whether or not I could use fiberglass cloth with epoxy/resin as
a sealer for a 10'x6'x12" tank made out of wood, of course properly supported.
<Sure can, once completely cured.>
This will hold only LPS, SPS and clams. Inverts will be placed in tanks. I'm not
quite sure whether using ozone and calcium reactor and
general additives will break down the resin. Or, would a liner be just as good?
<Personal preference here, the wood/resin can incorporate a viewing pane.>
I also worry that the ozone and U.V. sterilizer will degrade the liner.
<Ozone, if used properly, will be out gassed by the time the water returns to
the tank. As for a calcium reactor and U.V., they will not affect the materials
of the tank.>
I appreciate any help. I would like to get this right the first time.
Also, may I ask at another time some general start up questions, and also share
some of my ideas? <Sure> Thanks crew!!!
Mark
<There is a good page on building a tank just as you describe, check it out.
http://garf.org/ in their DIY pages. Fact of
the matter is we put resin materials in our tanks all the time. Even the acrylic
that is used so extensively in aquarium products starts out this way. Some are
more appropriate and durable than others, a quick Google search of plywood tanks
will show you what people are using out there. Your welcome and good luck, Scott
V.>
Was curious. Old metal-framed
aquarium for SW use... 8/9/07
To whom it may concern....
Thanks for all the great info on your website. I have been reading for the last
two days and realizing I still have much more to learn. I have a 220 gallon
(approx.) tank set up as freshwater at the moment and want to switch it over to
reef with a DSB of 6 inches or so and build a 55 gallon refugium. The 220 main
tank is an older tank and has the steel frame and slate bottom and I was curious
if there is any precautions or ways that you guys know of to make a steel framed
tank saltwater safe from corrosion besides getting it reframed?
<Mmmm... well... you might well be okay coating the metal, esp. the bit that
hangs over the top... with an epoxy-based material to prevent its corrosion, and
poisoning of the system.... But I would rather you sell this "antique" (perhaps
at a good price!) and get/use an all-glass or acrylic (new) tank...>
I asked around the local fish stores and they tell me nobody does it anymore.
Everyone tells me I can't set it up saltwater because of the steel frame and you
guys seem to know a lot more than the local fish stores I talk with. Or if there
are any do it yourself modifications I can do to prevent the accelerated
corrosion or to reinforce the frame that is on there. Or will this be actually
pretty safe for saltwater?
<Not w/o coating... which will/would negate its resale...>
Also another quick question about the upstream refugium. If you place your pump
to push the water back into the main tank then does the intake line to the fuge
work as a siphon?
<Mmm, an upstream sump relies pumping up and on gravity return... You've got
this mixed up>
If there is a power outage wouldn't it empty your main tank or overflow your
fuge? Or am I just confused? LOL....
<The latter here>
Please let me know at your convenience...
thanks,
Todd in Wisconsin
<BobF, bleary in S. Cal.>
Juwel Vision 450 for marine
use? – 08/08/07
Hi all, Jay here from the UK.
<Hello Jay,>
First of let me please say that your website is the best aquatics site on the
net by far.
I have decided to start a marine aquarium, I have kept fresh water tropical fish
for over ten years, but am totally new to marine. My question is that I have
purchased a Jewel Vision 450 set up, it will be used as a FOWLR to start with
and then I may try my hand at a full reef set up. The tank came with a two stage
biological filtration system that contains the following:
<I'm going to take a pass at this question, if you don't mind. While not exactly
a marine fishkeeping guru like some of the others here, I'm familiar with the
Juwel tanks and have friends who use them for marine systems.>
1. Filter wool pad.
2. Active carbon sponge.
3. Nitrate removal sponge.
4. A coarse sponge.
5. A fine sponge.
<Sounds about right. I'm not a fan of nitrate and carbon sponges, but that's
perhaps because I'm a freshwater guy at heart, and those things serve little
purpose in freshwater fishkeeping.>
Would you leave this filter system in the tank ( its run by a 1000lph power
head) or would you take it out to free up room in the tank ( 5ft x 2ft x 2ft,
100 gallons) and go with another form of filtration, such as an external power
filter (Fluval FX5)?
I wanted to add a sump but my cabinet is no designed to take one, plus drilling
holes in my tank will invalidate my 3 year guarantee.
<The short answer is you should do both. The Juwel filters operate at ambient
water pressure, which is why such a small pump can push so much water through
the media. An external canister filter is pressurised and has to work against
gravity, and hence needs a bigger pump to get the same flow of water. Anyway,
the Juwel filters have their good points and bad points. Because they are open
to the air, oxygen is not really a limiting factor, and this combines with the
huge sponges to give massive biological filtration. They are also very easy to
clean, and because they contain the heater, there's no risk of fish burning
themselves. On the downside though, the low water pressure means they have very
poor mechanical filtration. Crud basically collects at the bottom of the tank,
and siphoning out every week is essential in messy or heavily stocked aquaria.
Now, if you add a canister filter, you will get the best of both worlds:
excellent biological filtration from the Juwel filter, and then
mechanical/chemical filtration at high pressure from the canister. Works like a
charm. With a bit of fiddling, you can use the water outlets from each system to
provide two different currents in the tank, and that's good for any aquarium.
I've set up tanks where the canister filter outlet was on the bottom, for
example. The main thing is to figure out how much turnover in litres/hour you
need (I'd go for 8-10 times the volume of the tank, minimum) and then add extra
filters accordingly.>
thanks very much. Jay
<Hope this helps, Neale>
Acrylic vs. glass tanks 12/19/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Well, you've got Jorie here instead of Bob- I'll try my best to help you out!>
I read your article, "Tanks, Stands & Covers for Marine Aquarium
Systems"
<Great article written by Bob...>
I am about to purchase a relatively large (280 gal) aquarium
which will serve as a room divider in our new home. I have been
struggling greatly with my attempt to decide between acrylic or glass
(Starphire). I have read so many differing opinions on the two choices. Most of
the criticism surrounding acrylic is related to its ease of scratching. Others
have stated it becomes opaque. Can you speak further to this matter? I simply
do not wish to buy a tank of this size and for a significant amount of money and
regret my purchase. I wish for a tank to last many years.
<I applaud you for putting so much thought into this decision - always best to
research before buying, doing; the same holds true for when you're ready to
stock your new tank as well! With regards to glass vs. acrylic tanks, well,
like many things, there are pros and cons to both. The concerns you mention
about acrylic are valid - indeed, it is quite easy to scratch an acrylic tank,
and I have seen some become cloudy with age. Our personal experience reveals
that the former is more likely to happen than the latter - indeed, all of our
acrylic tanks are scratched in places. However, there are algae-scrubbing pads
and such made especially for acrylic tanks. The benefits of acrylic, in
contrast to glass, are its strength and flexibility. Also, it's much lighter
than glass (weight-wise). Ultimately, it becomes a matter of personal
preference; these concerns generally balance each other out.
The one personal suggestion I would give you with regard to investing in a new
tank is to not get a bowfront (or any non-rectangular shaped tank, for that
matter). Our saltwater tank is a 46 gal. acrylic bowfront, I can honestly tell
you that the viewing is greatly distorted by the curve. All other things being
equal, I (we - it's really my boyfriend's tank!) wouldn't purchase that same
tank again. I also have a 44 gal. pentagon-shaped glass freshwater tank - that
one creates its own problems (e.g., proper lighting and being able to reach the
bottom, both due to the height of the tank). This was my first tank purchase,
and I thought it was great, since it was "unique". Of all my tanks, I'm
happiest with the "standard" 29 gal. rectangular tank which houses my brackish
fish.>
The broad spectrum of information is very hard for me to digest and make my
decision. Can you help me any more than your article already did as far as your
preference for acrylic?
<That would be Bob's preference, it seems! I think the glass vs. acrylic
decision results in very personal opinions. I do see some merit in going with
acrylic for the larger-sized tanks (again, for strength reasons, if nothing
else), but I won't lie - you will ultimately seem some scratches. Not the end
of the world, but they will inevitably happen.> <<I do prefer acrylic for most
applications... but only have two glass tanks presently... with some
scratches... RMF>>
Thanks, Keith
xxx.xxx.xxxx
<Hope I've helped a bit, Keith. No concrete answer here, all you can do is lots
of homework, then weigh your options. Either choice will be just fine, in all
likelihood! Best regards, Jorie>
Tanks and earthquakes
Hello everybody,
<Howdy>
I'm sitting in my leaving room 3 meters away from my 60 gallon glass tank and
about 20 kilometers away from the north Anatolian earthquake fault line in
Istanbul, Turkey. The fault line is told to be very similar to the Californian
quake fault line. About 4 years ago a big earthquake hit the region and we wait
for the next big one to happen, closer to the city of Istanbul this time, with a
60% chance if I recall correctly within the next 30 years, hitting 6.5 -7.4 on
the scale. It may just happen next minute. Can you tell me anything about how to
secure an aquarium against earthquakes? So far I have an anti-slip sheet between
the tank bottom and the tank stand, and that's it. I want to upgrade to a 100
gallon 80" tank but the idea of 900 pounds of water and rock pouring
on me as the earth tries to shake us off it's back scares me a
little. So, any ideas or experiences will be highly appreciated.
Thanks,
Husnu
<I share your concern. Please take a leisurely read through the marine
sections of our site (WetWebMedia.com) under "Set-Up", particularly
"Tanks" "Stands"... and the accompanying FAQs files. We like
acrylic tanks (over glass) where the ground shakes but good... and to build
stands that are braced in three dimensions... wedging them into corners, between
other heavy furniture... even attaching them to walls. Many other ideas apply.
Bob Fenner>
Glass or acrylic for commercial lobster store
Good evening crew.
<good evening>
We `are adding 7 tanks to our saltwater system. 4m long, 1m wide and 600 to 900
high. We will have lobster and shellfish in plastic cases. Water temp,
13oCelsius (Fahrenheit?..) Air conditioning in the room at 21o Celsius. We have
been given mixed advice about using glass or acrylic. Is glass strong enough,
will it crack, will it have condensation running down it. Your thoughts please..
Regards, Cameron
<lets play it safe here and consult the specs sheet for a glass and acrylic
manufacturer. Glass can easily do the job (has done so for many years in public
aquaria easily up to 1000 gallons). But it is a poor insulator and sweats
terribly when holding chilled water. Either way, seek tolerances of
"deflection" (ability of pane to bow without breaking) to confirm that
your expected capture of the panes is consistent with mfg
recommendations/expectations. Anthony>
Concerns about tank thickness
Hello Wet Web Crew,
<Hi there>
Wanted to first mention how great your site is, I've learned so much from
browsing the FAQs.
<Glad you have benefited>
Quick question regarding minimal thickness on an aquarium tank. I've recently
had built a 48x24x24 clear for life aquarium - unfortunately this was before I
found the info on your site. They used 3/8" thickness, as opposed to
1/2" recommended by your site. Should I be concerned?
<Mmm, minimally. There may be a bit of bowing but the system won't fail>
I am somewhat paranoid that I'll come home to a swamp of 120 gallons in my
living room floor slowly seeping down to my neighbors apartment. I hope that the
only thing I should be concerned about is a little bowing. Also, anything I can
do to prevent that (I was thinking of adding a strut in the back of the tank,
but am fearful that this may make bowing more significant in the front!).
Thx,
Tom
<This won't happen, unless there's a sizable earthquake... or a poor stand
support. No worries. Bob Fenner>
Glass vs. Acrylic- The Tough Decision!
Hello all out there, this question is to all of you, as I would appreciate as many opinions as possible.
<Scott F. chiming in today>
I am going to upgrade to a 180 gallon reef. I am going to be using the Aquamedic
AquaSpacelight for lighting my LPS-dominant reef tank with 2-150w 10k MH's on the ends and 1-150w 20k MH in the center. I cannot decide
whether to go with acrylic or glass.
<Ahh...a common cause of consternation!>
I would have 3 cut-outs on top where the light would be penetrating the most. I'm wondering if the
existing acrylic top would interfere with the light getting into the tank, as I currently run my all-glass reef without any top.
<Well, the acrylic will definitely reduce some of the light. On the other hand, with high intensity halide lighting, you're not loosing all that much. If it were me, and I were ordering a new tank (as I am about to, myself!), I'd opt to go with a "Euro Brace" configuration, which is essentially a completely open top, with just a perimeter of several inches around the sides. This allows maximum light penetration and circulation. It can be a bit
pricey to do in acrylic, though, as I am finding out. Extra-thick acrylic is generally used in these types of situations, as the acrylic can bow if not braced, unless sufficiently thick acrylic is used. Glass tanks do have similar issues in terms of thickness, but they are generally much more commonly found in this configuration>
Also are there any other factors that would make me lean either towards glass or
acrylic besides scratching? (Is it really that bad?)
<As someone who has scratched up his acrylic tank pretty badly, I think it is a big issue. You need to be aware of the scratch potential when scraping algae, or performing maintenance and aquascaping
tasks in the system. The other consideration that you should think about is what I call "DIY-ability". Acrylic is much more forgiving in this regard, and almost any reasonably competent and well-equipped DIY'er can drill acrylic (notice that I said "almost any"? And, by the way- I do NOT place myself in that category! That's what my reef-geek friends are for!), whereas glass really requires skills and equipment that most people just don't have. It's best to order any tank (IMO), especially a glass tank, pre-drilled to your specifications at the manufacturer. You also have to consider the possibility of accidents and, for us So Cal people, earthquakes. I have seen a 48 inch long, fully-filled acrylic aquarium shift right off of the stand, with absolutely no damage following an earthquake. Glass tanks can be downright
disastrous in these types of situations. Even if you don't live in earthquake country, do think about other possible issues with breakage, including shipping and transport>
I have to make my mind up soon so I could order my tank and get it cycling. Thanks
<Gee.. I wonder if I was more of distraction factor here? Well, do make the decision based on your own set of pros and cons, and go from there. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Glass, Acrylic, etc 11 Aug 2004
Good Day Crew!! <Hi Corey nice to meet you, MacL here with you tonight>
This may not be a question that can be answered but I thought I would give it a
shot. <I promise to do my best Corey.> From all of the opinions and information
I have gathered on the glass vs. acrylic tank debate, I have concluded that
acrylic is far superior to glass in every facet except the one obvious detractant,
its propensity to be easily scratched. <I think that there are people who would
argue that point with you. I personally fine acrylic to be best for me and
that's what I tell people. Look into both and figure out what works for you the
best.> I believe in the Today's FAQ's yesterday or the day before, one of the
crew members mentioned that he had a 300 gal. acrylic tank that was so scratched
up, he would never buy one again. <I haven't seen that one but doesn't surprise
me. Let me just tell you that I have a 20 year old acrylic tank with no
scratches on it whatsoever. Acrylic can also be polished and the scratches
removed. If you get a scratch in glass its there permanently. But another option
is that Starphire glass which is quite lovely.> My question is have any of you
read or heard of existing or developing material for tank construction that has
all the benefits of acrylic but the scratch resistance of glass or
better. <There are some stronger types of plexi glass such as Lexan but its very
cost prohibitive.> I know I am looking for the utopian tank, but thought it
wouldn't hurt to ask. <Never hurts to ask and don't forget there are those
innovators who are making takes out of wood and other materials and lining them.
I guess my point here is find what works best in your world. Yes be careful with
plexi it does scratch. I have a scratch on the inside front of my tank right now
that I need to take out but it was my fault. I dropped a piece of rock and it
ran down the front. BIG mistake. I do think with plexi that you have to be very
careful. But like I said for me the benefits outweigh the costs.> Thank you for
time and knowledge <Hope that helps. MacL>
Corey
Hard aquarium questions
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Lisa>
I was wondering if you could answer some of my questions about the way
aquariums tanks are currently made. I have seen the debate between using glass
or
using acrylic for the tank but I rarely see any mention of polycarbonite which
has been used at Walt Disney World in the living seas.
<Mmm, me neither. I know of the use of this impact resistant material in
greenhouses... its order of magnitude strength greater than acrylic...>
I rarely see it
mentioned at any of the website businesses making aquariums. It's much stronger
than
acrylic and so it doesn't scratch. Why don't they use it more often?
<Don't know... have you investigated internet sources of information re this
materials properties? Perhaps it bows badly in small thicknesses...>
Also why
are the stands often made out of wood when they could be subject to water
damage? Why don't they use a design more waterproof?
<Mmm, cost of production, materials... legacy of using wood>
I also have a question about
how breeders advertise mailing people certain fish and corals. I wonder if
that is safe, or will the sea creature be killed in the process?
<Sometimes>
Also is it truly
possible to help the environment through the captive bred programs?
<Not necessarily... I have asked friends/associates in the trade similar
questions. What sense does it make to construct artificial "live rock" that
utilizes cement made from... corals and their reefs?>
Thank you
for taking the time to read my e-mail.
Lisa
<Thank you for writing>
Shaken, Not Stirred
Hi, I'm a devoted fan from Fairbanks, Alaska. As you may or may
not know, we recently experienced a 7.9 earthquake.
<Yikes! Hope that you're okay!>
Until recently, this type of experience has been a rare occurrence, at least at
that magnitude. This last quake left me with saltwater drenched
floors and electrical components. Obviously, I feel fortunate to have
sustained such little damage, but the swaying tanks during the quake immediately
made my mind race. With such great interest in the aquarium trade,
especially in California, are there measures commonly taken in earthquake prone
areas to prevent the toppling of tanks and other associated damage? Thanks in
advance, Andrea
<Well, Andrea, as someone who lives in LA, and has been through a few quakes,
I can certainly understand your concern! Some of the measures that I have seen
aquarists do include actually strapping stands and tanks to the walls(!),
utilizing acrylic tanks exclusively (That's the #1 reason why I swear by
acrylic, having had one shift completely off the stand by about 18", and
still not crack!), GFI outlets, and lots of different bracing methods. I'd
recommend doing a search on the internet under "earthquake safety",
and you may come up with some ideas (not always for aquariums, but nonetheless
applicable) that can help. Do also visit our WetWebMedia chat forum for some
feedback from fellow hobbyists. Good luck and be safe! Scott F.>
Glass Aquarium
Dear sir,
I recently acquired a 105g Oceanic Aquarium w/stand. It is an all glass
tank and therein lies my problem. I would have preferred acrylic but am
not complaining as I got the tank at a very good price.
<Nothing wrong with glass tanks... and definitely nada bad about a good deal>
Anyway, here it is: I wanted to set it up with the water going down to
a sump or refugium underneath the stand and place much of the filtration
etc. there out of sight. However, as the tank is glass and is not
drilled for that setup in tank, I would have to use an over the edge
overflow or whatever. Now that that is my option, I have heard several
horror stories about these malfunctioning and flooding the room when the
siphon breaks etc.
<Hmm, well... the tank can likely still be drilled if you want to investigate the possibility... but for the money, time, hassle, I'd get/use an overflow box... these are about foolproof... and you could always rig up two... if you're fearful that one might fail... take a look at the
spec's of the ones offered on
www.cprusa.com>
So, my question is there any way to accomplish the under tank refugium w/o a great risk to my mothers carpet (and thence to me!) or
should I do something else. How would you set up a nondrilled glass tank? I had planned to setup a fish and hardy invertebrate system w/live rock,
sand-then later perhaps convert to a full blown reef system.
When I decide about a year ago to get into this hobby, I thought that I should first read up on it-so have spent the last year buying and
reading books on the subject, and I will have to say that your book is the most well worn of the lot. (smile)
<And a very big grin here>
I feel I have a decent understanding at least enough to get started-I hope! However, the
plethora of gizmos and doodads has me somewhat confused anything more technical that a can opener confuses me I must admit!) So if you have any
recommendations as to a best setup for my glass tank, I would be eternally grateful...(smile)
Regards, Kim
<I'm here to help if you get stuck, would like another opinion or three. Bob Fenner>
Aquariums: Glass/Acrylic?
I would like to know what are the price difference between glass and Acrylic.
<Depending on? Thickness, quality....? Acrylic costs more wholesale and retail... for practical purposes... a rule of thumb so to speak, a good two to three times as much>
I just read your website and you said you like acrylic better.
<For most applications, yes>
I'm trying to buy a tank approx 65 gallons. I don't see any acrylic tanks in the pet store in my town so I might have to order one. So also read that if u scratch the acrylic tank it can be remove. We kind of gauze do u have
to use to get rid of the scratches?
<My favorite simple remedy involves pastes of different grits... very fine scratches can be rubbed out with gritty types of toothpastes... But plastics dealers everywhere offer types of technology for this>
Well I will appreciate if you answer those questions. And thank you for taking time to read my email,
Aaron
<Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Aquarium Material Choices
Bob,
<Steven Pro taking my turn answering a few questions this morning.>
I would like to thank you in advance for all of your help. I am looking to make
a major step in advancing my reef tank. I only have a 29 gal. glass reef, which
I have had for 3 years or so. It is time to upgrade to the 90 gal. range. Do you have any suggestions on glass or
acrylic?
<I am going to give you a pretty lousy answer. Bob prefers acrylic. In
California because of earthquakes acrylic is required. They are also easier to
work with, drilling overflows, carrying do it lighter weight, etc. I prefer the
better scratch resistance of glass, cheaper price, and in this area, glass tanks
are readily available. Acrylic is consistently a special order product.>
I know the pros & cons of each. After deciding to buy a glass tank, I went
to my LFS to price them out. They pretty much told me that glass was a waste
& acrylic is the only way to go. Are they just trying to get $$$$?
<I cannot say for sure as I do not know them.>
I like the durability of glass, but is a 90 gal. more likely to leak than my
current 29 gal.?
<No>
Is the acrylic really worth the extra money?
<To some people, but not to me.>
I think I would prefer a tank with an overflow, do you agree with this idea?
<Yes, very much so, with either material.>
What is your suggested tank equipment for someone who is interested in stony
polyped corals, anemones, clowns, gobies, tangs?
<Sump, high quality skimmer, source of purified water, MH's, DSB, and
liverock filtration. A refugium would be great, too.>
Are wet-dry systems not advised for reef tanks?
<Correct. -Steven Pro>
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