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FAQs about Commercial & Custom Tanks for Marine Systems: Shape &
Size Related Articles:
Size Doesn’t Always Matter! Thoughts on the Desire to Create
Bigger Marine Aquariums By Scott Fellman,
Making Your Own Tanks, Sumps, Designer
Marine tanks, stands and covers,
Aquarium Repair, Marine
System Components, Canopies,
Covers & Lighting Fixtures,
Related FAQs: Tanks, Stands, Covers,
Custom Aquariums, Stands, Covers..., FAQs on Commercial,
Custom Tank: Design,
Materials: Acrylic, Glass, Other... Tools,
Location, By Make/Brand/Manufacturer
Name, & DIY Tanks, Sumps 1,
DIY Tanks/Sumps 2, DIY Tanks/Sumps 3, DIY
Tanks/Sumps 4, & FAQs on DIY Tank & Sump :
Design, Shape/Size,
Materials, Tools/Construction/Sealants,
Plumbing... DIY Acrylic Tanks,
DIY Glass Tanks, DIY Wood Tanks,
DIY Other Material Tanks... |
Remember... you'll have to get inside whatever shape, size... to
aquascape, do maintenance, chase livestock... And to consider how
high on the stand... (will you be sitting, standing... more of the
time?)... and to leave some room above the tank to haul up,
otherwise remove the canopy/top to get into the ding dang thing. And
will the floor take the weight? RMF |
Marine Set-Up/Tank Depth 1/27/09
Hello all at
wetwebmedia.com,
<Hi Richard>
Is there a minimum tank depth? I'm
doing research for my first saltwater setup and see that the "standard"
90 gallon tank size is 48" long x 18" wide x 24" deep. According to my
reading so far I want to maximize the footprint of the tank for gas
exchange purposes and so forth. So, wouldn't a tank that's 48" long x
24" wide x 18" deep make more sense?
<Yes, more gas/air exchange per
gallon of water would be the way I'd go. I'd opt for a 70 gallon tank.>
Would it make a difference to the fish if they only had 18" of depth
instead of 24"?
<They will be quite happy in 18 inches of water.>
I assume it would either be a custom tank or a DIY (my preferred route
to be honest, I love working with my hands).
<You may be interested
in reading here and related articles and FAQ's posted above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm>
Thanks for your time and
the wonderful work you all do at WetWebMedia.
<You're welcome. James
(Salty Dog)>
Richard Feldman
Re: Trigger Flashing/ Goatfish Quarantine 12/18/08
Thanks again bob,
Regarding the eminent overstocking issue... Is
there one particular fish in this system that puts it over the edge?
<Mmm, no... not one animal in particular>
I'm guessing the Grouper
<The Chromileptis will be the growth winner here... but is actually a
pretty mellow Serranid for its size>
or the Puffer (within the next
year). We all have the tendency to default to the "future upgrade"
justification...
<Ah, well-stated>
But, within the next few
months, I have been given permission (for lack of a better word) to get
a substantially larger system.
<Heeee!>
Ironically, from my
girlfriend's perspective, this is not so much for the welfare of the
fishes... Nope. We have a few unsightly scratches on the acrylic that
are beyond my capability to buff out. If I'm going through the trouble
of replacing... Might as well get a bigger one.
<I like the way she
thinks!>
After all, what's the difference if we designate 5 feet of
wall space or 8 feet?
<Yeah! You don't need that couch! Or the TV for
that matter if you have a fab tank>
While we're on the subject, I
notice that 300g seems to be about the largest tank available without
having something custom made.
<Yes, this is generally so>
Typically 96" x 30" x 24", I think. The 240g is the same dimensions,
less 6" in height...
<Mmm, yes...>
Do you think the extra 60g
makes a significant difference?
<Indeed it does... aesthetically,
particularly if folks will be seeing the tank more often while standing,
walking by, versus seated in the area...
And maintenance wise, in
terms of getting ones ding dang arms in and about... Though I have
unusually long arms for my height (from carrying oceans of water about
in buckets for most of my youth), I can't reach the bottom of such tanks
AND see what I'm doing at the same time. Good to invest in some
all-plastic tools for this...>
I'm concerned with the weight issues
here... I live in a duplex in Los Angeles, with a raised, wooden
foundation. There is a small crawl space, accessible from outside. I
rent.
<Mmm, do think re getting underneath the floor, in this crawl
space... putting in at least some 32 pound cinder blocks and wood
shims... under the floor joists to the wall where this tank will go>
Other than hiring a structural engineer and further investing in
reinforcements, any suggestions? Strategically placed hydraulic floor
jacks?
<Mmm, likely just the blocks and shims... IF you owned the
place, I might pour some footings... have done this digging... not hard
if the ground
isn't too bad... but takes a good long while with such
restricted space>
I was toying with the idea of using my 100G as a
refugium... What's the ballpark weight on 340-400g total?
<Mmm...
about 7.8 pounds per gallon of seawater, and the tank itself... best to
count on about ten pounds per gallon used... Filled half way, uh... 500
lbs.>
Am I nuts?
<If so, so am I... If nothing else, we can start
a club>
I'm hoping, with this size, to have your blessing to keep my
existing fishes and add a few more. Any comments?
<Am giving you my,
arf, arf! Seal of Approval... am getting good at balancing a ball on my
nose... Hey, where's my chunk of mackerel?>
And, finally... The real
reason I was writing... When you mention attempting to strike a balance
with potential parasites, specifically crypt... I get that means, for
the most part, maintaining water quality and boosting immune systems.
But, I was also wondering if you were perhaps hinting at biological
assistance... I would love to see a Cleaner Shrimp in action.
<Mmm,
too likely to be inhaled here... in pieces... by the Trigger, Puffer...
all will have to get in line>
I have enjoyed a You-Tube video of a
Skunk Cleaner working a large Dogface. I know that nothing is etched in
stone when it comes to compatibility... And I know that I would be
playing Roulette with a $20 resident and/or snack... I guess I'm curios
what my odds are... Thanks for everything.
<Thank you, Bob Arf
Fenner> 240 Gallon
FOWLR Compatibility
Big Tank/Big Plans/Big Tradeoffs (Stocking a 240
FOWLR) 12/4/08
Hey Ya'll!
<Hiya! Scott F. in
today!>
I am in the early stages of planning a Fish-Only/Live-Rock
tank probably shooting for 240 gallons. I normally wouldn't want to
waste your time, but some of the stocking possibilities will play a big
role in the amount of money I want to put into the project.
<I'll
bet!>
Besides that, I have seen a lot of information about
compatibility and requirements of space for the fish I am considering,
but I have had a hard time finding anything that gives me a
comprehensive answer about the big picture. One thing about the aquarium
shape/size itself: I have this crazy notion that somehow a deeper, more
square tank gives fish a greater feeling of freedom when swimming. For
example, is there any reason to think a 48x48x24 240 gallon as opposed
to a 96x24x24 240 gallon would allow creatures like a Koran Angel,
Lunare Wrasse or Zebra Moray Eel to feel like they have more open space
in which to roam? Or, am I just crazy? It seems like the longer,
narrower tank would be more cost effective so that's where I would
probably lean if it doesn't change things much.
<Good thought. I'm
all about wide, low aquariums, but in the case of fishes that "range"
over large territories in the wild, I would prefer a longer aquarium.>
My biggest question is about the compatibility of fish but even more so
about a sequence of introduction. The fish I am most desiring to house
are the following ordered from most wanted to least:
Koran Angelfish,
Dragon Wrasse, Harlequin Tuskfish, Zebra Moray Eel, Lunare Wrasse,
Dogface Puffer, Naso Tang, Niger Trigger, Antennata Lionfish. I am
guessing that the Lunare Wrasse is the most likely to be incompatible
with something else on the list even if added last. I also feel like the
Lionfish and the Trigger could be particularly aggressive towards some
of the others especially if they are still small, right?
<Oh, yes!>
A loose plan I had would be to add the Koran and Dragon as juveniles
because I would love to be able to watch them change. I figured the
Harlequin Tuskfish, Naso, and Dogface would probably be next. Would they
be dangerous to add while the first two are still juvi's? After some
time I thought adding the Trigger and the Lionfish. I definitely figured
if it's compatible at all, the Lunare would have to be last and I really
wasn't sure about the best time to add the Zebra Moray Eel. So the big
questions are, of course, are there any glaring compatibility issues in
the list? Would you make any specific alterations to my basic sequence
of introduction? Is this too much fish(&eel) for 240 gallons?
<To be
honest, I'd avoid keeping Naso Tangs in aquariums. They just get so
large and require large amounts of physical space to live anything close
to a natural life span. In my opinion, too many of these magnificent
Tangs die needlessly in aquariums that are too small to sustain them.
Other thoughts: I would pass on keeping both a Trigger and a Lionfish
together in the same aquarium. For that matter, do consider the Puffer
as a potential problem for your Lionfish. I would also consider choosing
either the Lunare Wrasse or the Harlequin Tusk Fish-but not both. They
could get pretty aggressive towards each other.. I would get the Moray
Eel in the aquarium as soon as possible and get it eating before any of
the other fishes are introduced. I would probably avoid small juveniles
of the other fishes, so that they don't become snacks for the Moray.
Stocking involves lots of trade offs, huh? Also, take into account the
amount of metabolic wastes that the fishes you are considering
will generate!>
I had considered a glith upgrade to 300 (96x24x30)
but don't know even how much difference that would make at this level.
<You'd be surprised what a difference it can make. If you're gonna do a
big aquarium, the extra 60 gallons is well worth the additional expense,
IMO.>
Again, I don't think there's anybody out there who I've seen
give better advice so I would greatly appreciate your thoughts!
Scott
<You're too kind. Thanks for the compliment! Best of luck to you.
Regards,
Scott F.>
A big "Thank You!" & Tank Dimensions/Overflows 7/20/08
Dear WWM
Crew,
<Jill>
Thank you SO much for your outstanding commitment and
hard work! The time you put into answering the daily FAQ’s is a
blessing. Thank you!
<Thank you very much, glad the site has helped
out!>
I will be upgrading soon from a 7 gallon (saltwater) to a 75
gallon tank, which will eventually be an LPS dominated reef system. I
have learned that three of the most important aspects of this hobby are
researching, planning, and patience.
<Stick to the above and you
can’t help but to be successful.>
Before I make my large purchase, I
wanted to ask you the following: in your opinion, which tank dimensions
would be “better”? 48”L x 18”W x 20”H or 60”L x 18”W x 16”H. Of course
the word “better” is subjective and dependent on the species being kept,
but for the general overall health of the reef system, which would you
prefer and for what reasons?
<Taller tanks are tougher to work in,
but 20” is not too tall unless you have very short arms. 16” is too
short for my liking aesthetically, but if you like the look, go for it.
The longer tank will technically provide a larger surface area for gas
exchange, but the sump and skimmer will also provide gas exchange. The
big difference I see is lighting. While a deeper tank requires more
intense lighting, 20” is not overly deep. T5/PC/VHO can work fine at
this depth for LPS. The longer tank will require longer and consequently
higher wattage bulbs. Personally I would go for the 48” tank in this
particular case, although, as you said, this is subjective and the next
crew member may say 60”!>
I have also decided on the Eheim 1262
(rated at 900 GPH) for the main pump.
<My favorite pump.>
In your
opinion, would one overflow, or two work better in this system?
<Always two, at the minimum. Three to four drains even in a system this
size.>
My research has led me to believe that one drain is preferable
in a 48” system, while two is better in a 60”.
<Has more to do with
flow than the length of the system. Do distinguish overflow from the
drains that actually provide the flow capacity.>
Finally, do you
believe that the standard overflow and drain pipes (as supplied by
Tenecor reef ready tanks) would be appropriate for this pump?
<You
will want to make sure you have a minimum of two 1.5” drains or a single
2” to handle the flow from this pump. Double these drains if you wish to
provide redundancy (you should).>
Please accept my apologies if I
have not supplied the correct information. I’ve researched the site for
months and have purchased the CMA but still feel like a “beginner” and
have much to learn about this amazing hobby!
<Keep reading, you
will!>
Thank you SO MUCH for your valuable advice! God bless!
Jill
<Welcome and thank you. Enjoy the new setup.>
Aquarium Sizing & Such, Marine Stocking 6/22/08
Hi, I have a kind
of silly question to ask. First, I have 10+ years of freshwater
experience, 4 years of brackish and 1+ years of marine. So my basement
looks like a fish store, lol. Anyway I would like to set up a show tank,
preferably about 200 gallons. Currently I only have damsels and clowns
in FOWLR systems. I've learned not to trust coral. The fish I would love
to have would be
1 Dwarf Zebra Lionfish
1 Blue Dot Puffer
1
Powder Brown Tang
1 Metallic Foxface Rabbitfish
3 Banggai Cardinal
Fish
1 Coral Beauty Angelfish
Now I have friends who keep fish too
but not really of the kind I'm looking for. One problem is some say yes
and some say no. One problem would be that the Blue Dot Puffer would nip
at the Dwarf Lionfish, but one of my friends say that as long as the
puffer is fed, he won't be a problem.
<Not often related to feeding,
more along the lines of general aggression/territorial issues. Depends
on the individual personalities of the fish.>
Is that correct, or do
I owe my friend a smack?
<Smack them anyways.>
Another would be
that the Lionfish would eat the Banggai Cardinals, but again, I've heard
if there is enough rockwork that they are fast enough to not become
meals, and if the lionfish is fed right, there won't be a problem with
him anyway.
<If they can fit in his mouth the lion will most likely
try to eat it, and it only has to get it right once.>
Is that all
correct? I've also looked up how big an aquarium should be, but it only
comes up per fish. If it's all added up, it should be a 350 gallons.
That just seems like it would be too much open space to not enough fish.
<Not really possible in my opinion but I know what you mean.>
So
would it be ok to place them in a 200 or 250 gal?
<This would
probably work, the tang needs the most room here, at least six feet of
straight line swimming room.>
Is 350 the minimum? I want to move my
hobby upstairs, that is why I want a show tank. I'm just afraid a 350
gal (even a 250) might be too heavy
and bust through the floor.
<Definitely a concern.>
I live in a house built in 1950. How do I
test my floors without taking the risk of just filling up a 350?
<I
would call a professional and have them take a look.>
Sorry if this
is just a "duh!" question. Thank you for your time.
<Welcome>
<Chris>
UK water capacity 02/28/2008
Hi Crew,
<<Hello Gaynor,
fellow UK (England) person here, Andrew>>
I am from Scotland and
have been given numerous different answers to this question so I am
hoping you may be able to help as you are more knowledgeable than
some of these Pet/Aquarium shops.
<<Always a problem with people
using different sites / conversions for measuring tank volume>>
I
have a 4 foot by 18 inches by 15 inches tropical fish tank with an
undergravel filter which is covered by approximately 2.5 inches of
gravel, I have tried to find the water capacity of the tank so that
I know the exact amount of treatment I need to put in the tank if
and when required.
<<Your water capacity of the tank alone is 46
UK gallons (208.84 litres), the workable volume of the tank when
taking substrate, equipment and decor into account will be about 42
UK Gallons (190.68 litres). So, when you have a need to know total
volume of the tank for medication purposes etc, use the 42 gallon
(190.68 litre) figure>>
I am new to keeping tropical fish
although my husband kept them over 25 years ago but he says he has
forgotten so much. I would be grateful
if you could advise me in
U.K. gallons and litres what the water capacity is in my tank.
<<Hope the above helps>>
Many thanks, Gaynor
<<Thanks for the
questions, any more info required, then ask away. A Nixon>>
Re: water capacity 02/28/2008
Hi Andrew,
<<Hello again>>
Many thanks for your assistance, I have checked with numerous pet
shops and they all gave different volumes but none of them have ever
mentioned the equipment and decor in the tank.
<<Well, when we
think about it...We have the aquarium which is of a fixed volume
with nothing in it.. As soon as we start adding substrate, plants,
equipment, this will then take up that volume, thus reducing the
actual water volume in the tank.. Some people completely forget to
take this into consideration>>
You say you are from England,
whereabouts in England do you live.
<<I live in Staffordshire>>
<<Hope this helps and thank you for the follow up. A Nixon>>
Regards,
Gaynor |
Tank division 2/21/08
Hi there everyone
Love your
website!
<Okay!>
I have recently purchased a 10ft X 1.5ft X
2.5ft tank and I was toying with the idea of dividing the tank with
a piece of glass/acrylic with holes (water to pass through), or egg
crate, or live rock (not sure what to use) in it and have a reef
setup on the one side and have FOWLR on the other e.g. large
angelfish.
The partition would prevent the non compatible reef
fish from entering the reef section and the predatory fish from
eating my shrimps etc... Yet, I would be able to run the same (reef)
filtration. This way there would be no need to setup a separate
FOWLR. Have the best of both worlds on one tank.
Any thoughts?
<Can be done... I'd read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
for
some input re>
If you agree would three feet be enough for the
reef section?
Regards
Shaamiel
<Sure. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tank division 2/21/08
Thank you very much. Really great
article.
Is it safe to assume that you are recommending I divide
my tank with the baffle theory? If so, would you recommend I drill
holes in the acrylic divider or have an overflow over the top of the
divider for water flow.
<I just like the design ideas of the
article referred... the barrier should definitely be perforated>
Any recommendations on water circulation in the tank with the
divider present?
<Yes... here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm>
Much appreciated
Regards
Shaamiel
<Please learn to/use the search tool, indices
on WWM. BobF> |
Hexagon tank size 02/09/2008
Hello. How are you today???
<<Hello, Andrew today...Very well thank you, a lovely Saturday evening>>
I have a hexagon-ish tank and I wasn't sure what gallon size it was. Do
you think you guys could help me out?? My hexagon tank has a height of
about 1 foot 10 inches. The width is 1 ft. From one corner to the other
corner of the tank is about 2 feet and from one side to the other is
about 1 foot 10 inches. Attached I have a file showing you the
dimensions of my tank. Please help me. Thanks a bunch.
<<There was no
picture attached to this email. I would need to know the exact height of
the tank, and the width of a side panel, and then I shall be able to
give you the gallonage>>
<<Thanks for the question. A Nixon>>
Re: tank size, figuring 2/9/08
Hi Neale, the only problem
is that there are fishes in it already and it is a cycled tank. Thanks
for your quick reply.
<Still not a problem. Half empty it. Count the
amount of water needed to fill it back up again. Double that number. A
logical mind solves every problem! Cheers, Neale.>
re: tank size
Thanks. Hahaha, I should have thought of that.:)
<Ah, well, not everyone is as smart as I am. Glad I could help, Neale.>
Tank shape, Selection 2/6/08
Hello WWM crew...
<Hi Rick>
My question is regarding tank shape. Intent on getting back into the
marine hobby. Will be setting up the filtration and lighting for a reef
tank so I have that option, but leaning towards starting with a FOWLR.
Due to space issues in an apartment, I have been looking into the
prospect of a custom made corner tank. Of the options, I like the bow
front, but am open to a pentagon, triangle, or L shape if you guys
thought one of them was a better choice? Now to the question: I know
corner tanks are not ideal and that a longer rectangle tank is best, but
since I probably don't have a choice here, is there a general equivalent
rule of thumb I could use here? For example my old rectangle tank was
75gall. The corner tank I'm looking at now is 92gall. Because of the
shape would I stock it as if it were a 75? Less? Thanks so much for your
time.
<Rick, with limited choices, is best to go with the tank that
has the largest surface area (LxW=A). If the 92 gallon corner tank has a
smaller surface area than the bowfront, go with the bowfront. The extra
gallonage of the 92 won't help too much in regards to increased stocking
levels. James (Salty Dog)>
Rick
Length vs. Width vs. Height of Tank 1/28/08
Crew:
<Hello.>
Here's a non-emergency, fact-finding, opinion-seeking question! (We know
you have lots of opinions!)
<Yes, many found here.>
As you may or
may not remember, we have a 120-gallon tank that's 4x2x2. The tank has
been up for 14 months and is finally stable, fully cycled and beautiful.
<Great.>
It's home to a Sailfin Tang, two Yellow Tangs,
<Likely
territoriality issues here.>
two Clarkii's Clowns, two Yellow
Chromis, one Fairy Wrasse, one Coral Beauty, one Algae Blenny, one
Engineer Goby and (in the sump because they jumped and we can't get them
out) two very small Snowflake Eels.
<They won’t be small for long,
your are rightfully seeking a larger tank.>
We also have a Torch,
Plate, Trachyphyllia, Button Polyps and various and assorted Zoos.
Here's the question: Our LFS has two other tanks on sale. One is 125
gallons in a six-foot-long configuration, the other a 180 in a 6x2x2 set
up. Putting aside that the 180 is 60 gallons more stable, which is
better? Length? Width? Depth?
<Length and width as opposed to
depth.>
If we upgrade, the biggest expense by far is a new lighting
setup (will probably cost us in the $800 range to get what we want).
<Your lighting upgrade you propose will likely cost the same for each of
your proposed new tanks. Given the livestock you have and their
potential size grown, I would opt for the 180, larger if the opportunity
arises.>
Thanks!
Michael and Dianne
<Welcome, good luck, Scott
V.> Re:
Length vs. Width vs. Height of Tank 1/31/08
Scott:
Thanks for
the answer. So just to make sure we understand .... You would choose a
125-gallon tank at 72x18x24 over a 120-gallon tank at 48x24x24?
<Hmm, no. The width and length are more important than depth. That is
not to say that you want a tank six inches deep either! The greater
footprint, the more surface area there is for gas exchange. Also, deeper
tanks are more difficult to work in and require greater intensity
lighting.>
No hesitation?
Thanks,
Michael and Dianne
<For
swimming room/distance as far as the tangs the six foot tank would be
better. If you can get the 180 mentioned in our previous correspondence
you will have the best of both and more room/water volume for your fish
as they grow larger. The 120 is a great shape for aquascaping, but you
simply need more room with your fish you have listed. Welcome, I hope
this clarifies this for you, Scott V.>
Tank size, Marine 10/30/07
Good Afternoon,
As always,
thank you for the wonderful website, as well as for taking the time to
answer all of our questions. I know I speak for everyone when I say that
it is much appreciated!
<Hi Kim, glad we could help you.>
I have
one quick question. I currently have a 4ft 55 gallon marine tank that I
would like to upgrade to something larger. I was thinking either 75 or
90 gallons. (I would prefer to stick with the 4 foot length). A used
tank has become available to me, but it is larger than I had planned on.
It is a 110 gallon, 48"x18"X29" tall. It has custom dual
overflows.......... four one inch drains, and two one inch returns. It
comes with a 38 gallon sump, but my question pertains to the tank. I
understand that taller tanks are not the most sought after sizes, but
this seems like an opportunity to take the next step in this hobby.
Would this setup be something that is workable, or would I be better to
not touch it with a ten foot pole??? I'm concerned about gas exchange,
as well as adding volume that is not really "valuable" since the volume
is in height rather than width.
<As far as gas exchange, you will
still have the same surface area as a standard 90 gallon tank, more when
you consider the sump and overflow capabilities. As far as the space
being “valuable” that is really up to you and what you consider
valuable. I personally like tall tanks. They allow for a DSB without
taking up what feels like the entire height of the tank, as well as
leaving open swimming space at the top for your fish. The drawback can
be lighting a taller tank, but one approach would be to create different
zones in your tank. The more light intensive corals could go near the
top and the less intensive towards the bottom. It really depends on what
you want and how the tank fits into what you have planned for your next
tank.>
You're thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Kim
in Boston
<Thank you, I hope this helps you decide. Scott V.>
Set up... FO SW, reading – 9/24/07
I have been reading the
articles ontop articles
<?>
this website has to offer and I am
truely amazed and thankful to all of You who make it easy to find the
knowledge we need to make sure our creatures of the sea are cared for in
the best possible way!
I am currently in the process of deciding
between a 360 gallon tank (8'LX3'WX2'H) or a 392 gallon tank
(7'LX3'WX2.5'H) for a FOWLR set up. The tank inhabitants will be a
trigger (clown or niger),
<Not the Clown...>
an Emperor Angel,
Sohal Tang, Guineafowl Puffer, Harlequin Tusk, Blue Hippo Tang and a
Clown Tang. Which tank dimensions would you recommend?
<The choice
twixt these two is more ornamental than functional... I would choose the
former>
To filter the system I will be employing the use of ATI
Bubble Master 250 protein skimmer and a 50 gallon refugium
<I'd go
much larger>
filled with a 4-6" deep sand bed, Live Rock and
Caulerpa.
<I'd choose other algae>
All housed in a 6ft long sump.
Would you recommend a wet dry filter for a FOWLR system?
<Sometimes>
I was thinking of using Vanuatu live rock. My local fish shop told me
that it is less dense and is filled with lots of hiding spots for the
fish. What type of live rock would you recommend?
<Posted...>
How
many pounds of live rock should I buy?
<Ditto>
I heard that
1-2lbs per gallon is suggested but wanted to double check just in case.
For water circulation I will be using 2 EcoTech marine Vortech
powerheads along with 4 Hydor Koralia 4 powerheads. Will this be
sufficient water circulation?
<Likely so>
Thank you for your time
in answering my questions.
Brad
<Keep reading, gathering useful
data, opinions... Bob Fenner>
Tank Size...Space vs. Volume – 09/17/07
Good afternoon Bob &
Crew,
<<Greetings Mike...Eric here>>
I trust this finds you all
well.
<<Can only speak for myself, but yes, thank you>>
It is
always a pleasure to write to you when it is not regarding sick fish
because it usually means I am progressing with my new hobby as opposed
to playing catch-up on something I missed.
<<Ah yes>>
This
question is regarding the size of my next tank that will replace my
72gal. bowfront.
<<Okay>>
First to my current stock:
Corals: 2
Finger Leathers, a Gold Crown Leather (Toadstool?), 1 Glove Polyp, 1
Starburst Polyp, a Green Star Polyp, a Colt and a Frogspawn (oops! -
tucked it away in the corner for safety)
Inverts & Misc.: Sea Urchin,
Serpent Star, 3 Nassarius Snails, 3 Trochus Snails, a small Conch, some
MIA Hermits (just found one), 2 Feather Dusters (one just popped and
went MIA)
Fish: A 4" Purple Tang, a Coral Beauty, a Pixie Hawkfish,
two 2" A.O. Clowns, 6 Blue Green Chromis and a new 5" Sargassum
<<Triggerfish?>> in QT (what a fish - and here comes the expense to
accommodate it). For my next tank, I'm trying to evaluate the importance
of "room to swim" vs. "sheer volume".
<<Mmm...”both” need be taken in
to consideration, in my opinion...with the former being overlooked all
too often>>
I know both are advantageous and beneficial, but
sometimes one just can't have everything.
<<Yes...and thus the need
to research/objectively choose fishes for the available environment>>
Option 1: 180gal. W72"xD24"xH24" because I really want the 72" of length
for the larger more active fish to swim in.
<<When matching fishes to
the environment (or vise-versa!), the tank’s depth is of as much
importance...and maybe the more limiting factor. It doesn’t do a fish
much good if the tank confines don’t allow it to “turn around”...though
in this instance it shouldn’t prove to be a problem>>
Option 2:
135gal. W72"xD18"xH24" - this one fits better in the room at 18" depth.
I lose approx. 45gals of volume but without giving up much swimming room
- is this a fair statement?
<<Mmm, not in my opinion...re my previous
statement>>
Is the 24" depth (front to back) that big an advantage,
useable space wise, over the 18"?
<<It is>>
Option 3: 175gal.
W72"xD18"xH30" - I gain back some volume of water but without really
adding back room to swim.
<<Not true...fish don’t just swim “left to
right”... But in your case I would opt for added depth over height. A
deeper tank such as this would be an ideal display for a species of
Flasher Wrasse where low piles of rock rubble provide refuge while the
open water volume allows the wrasses to dart about and “display” above>>
With the exception of the Chromis, the rest always seem to swim near the
bottom of the tank so adding height will add volume but without the
benefits of additional useable space to swim (fair statement?)
<<This
is possibly just a swimming behavior adapted to the environment...as in
the placement of powerheads in the upper reaches of the tank spewing
laminar streams of water making swimming uncomfortable...along with
sending food quickly to the bottom where the fishes learn to look for
it>>
How important is it to just add pure volume (beyond a certain
point, and I can't say I know what that point is for sure) if it doesn't
benefit the fish in terms of (what I perceive to be) useable space for
my fish?
<<Mmm...larger volume means increased dilution/slower
degradation/greater stability...all “of use” and “important” to the
fishes>>
The other problem I see is that these thirty-inch high tanks
look like they will be a pain to work in (although I haven't had one).
<<This is true>>
Otherwise I could even get the 180gal. tank in a
height of 30" and the volume jumps to 220gal. I understand larger tanks
will accommodate more/larger fish, but what if they are still "in each
other's face" so to speak?
<<Then it is a “stocking” issue>>
Am I
really helping with extra height, or does it just benefit system
stability?
<<Depends on the fishes...but as stated, in your case I
would opt for the deeper tank over the taller tank>>
Therein lies my
dilemma. Volume vs. what I perceive to be useable space for movement.
Just looking to make a well informed decision here (and at these sizes,
I don't want to have to make it twice).
<<My vote is for the 180g
display (of course [grin])...but any of the three will serve with the
stock-list you present, given proper thought to the aquascaping>>
Thank you for your time and any words of wisdom you may have to offer.
<<Hope I’ve been of help>>
Mike from Canada, eh.
<<Regards,
EricR>>
Tank size? & shape, SW... – 07/23/07
Thanks guys, my
question is simple and complex. I have a 45 Gallon Hexagon--tall tank. I
was told that this tank is not ideal for saltwater fish and may play a
role in why my tank is not cycling and why also my fish are dying. I
cannot get my nitrates up and my nitrites down. I don't have a lot of
live rock and plan to get more but was concerned if the tank size is
keeping me from getting enough oxygen in the tank?
thanks.
>>>Greetings, Jim here.
How long has your tank be set up? Every tank
cycles differently, and your tank being a hex has nothing to do with
anything. Banish whomever told you this from the list of people you'll
listen to about aquaria - immediately.
For one thing, you need to let
the tank cycle before you add fish.. your fish are dying from nitrite
levels. I'm a little short on info here, how much life rock to you have?
Give me a volume or "stack size", not poundage.
Cheers
Jim<<<
Upgrading from 20gal to 56 gal.
Marine Set-Up 7/13/07
Hello Crew,
<Hello Eric.>
My birthday
is coming up, and I have a fantastic girlfriend who is considering
buying me a 56 gal "column" tank. (close to the dimensions of a large
square box, not a hex tank) (How great is that?!)
<Does she have a
sister? I'm happy for you, but I'm not a fan of column tanks. You may
have more gallons, but the surface area is small for the volume of water
it contains. Much less room for air/water exchange, and not much
horizontal swimming room for the fish. You would be much better off with
a standard 55 gallon.>
I am contemplating moving my current setup
(20gal high) into the 56 gal.. but am a bit unsure about how to do it.
The 20 gal is about 3 months old.
My tank is as follows:
20gal
high tank
Aquaclear 30 filter
standard florescent lighting
Fission Nano Skimmer (not a fan of AT ALL-- way too many modifications,
too many bubbles, not enough skimmate being removed (hardly anything)
not large enough collection cup, etc.)
<Not familiar with this
product.>
Maxi Jet 600 powerhead
1 inch very fine (sugar) grade
sand bed
About 10 lbs live rock, all small pieces with purple algae
and a ton of surface area. I do plan on adding more.
ammonia,
nitrite, zero, nitrate about 10ppm
ph is 8.3
-SG is 1.025
Fish:
1 small (1 inch) false Percula Clowns
1 Bicolor Blenny (2 inches)
1 Firefish (2 inches)
My question is this: If I get a new tank and
add about 35 gals of fresh saltwater and aerate the water, etc for a few
days, (along w/ new skimmer, bigger filter, and extra sand, eventually
more live rock) then add the sand, water, filtration, etc from the 20
gal setup, will that be enough to cycle, or should I cycle on its own
and wait?
<I'd put the sand in first, then the rock, and let this run
a couple days. You shouldn't lose your biological filtering.>
Also, I
have read about skimmers a ton, and have found that there are mixed
reviews for the Berlin Airlift 60. I found one nearby, and am
interested.
Any thoughts on this skimmer?
<My opinion is you get
what you pay for. Most air operated skimmers aren't going to be
efficient in terms of amount of water processed per hour.>
Thank you
for your quick response, you are always very helpful.
<You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Eric Saltwater Fishtank
Construction Questions 6/8/06
Crew:
<Paula>
First, let me start off by saying thanks to James, Bob, and Tom for
helping me.
<You're welcome.>
Being a newbie to the site, I knew
only the basics. You guys have helped me expand my knowledge and think
about my options. So
thanks again for that.
My first question
relates to a marine article I read on your site. It says that if I am
thinking about having a marine aquarium, bigger is better. It also says
that the minimum size I should have is about 40 gallons to allow for
plenty of "cruising" room for the fish.
<Not only cruising room, but
the larger tanks offer better water stability, fluctuations in specific
gravity and pH aren't as drastic.>
The tank I wish to remodel is
from 40-50 gallons. How many marine fish would this comfortably house,
along with one or two decorations?
<Depends on the size of the
fish. Keep in mind a 40-50 gallon tank is not large. I'd say five
smaller fish would be safe.>
My second question is about the same
article on marine aquariums. As I said, I have that large tank that is
40-50 gallons. I also have a 10 gallon tank that is about the same
height as the larger one. Is there a way or device to connect the two so
my fish would have some more room? Or is it just better to go with the
40-50 or a bigger model?
<Bigger would be better. No way to
actually connect the two tanks offering one display area. I would use
the ten gallon as a sump. An overflow and return pump will be needed to
do this. This will give you more total gallons in the system which will
improve the carrying capacity. It also allows for much better aeration
and CO2 removal and a place to put your heater and skimmer, yes, a
skimmer is very beneficial to good water quality. When the time comes,
do research what you want to buy before buying as to needs/requirements
of the animal and your ability to meet these
requirements. Compatibility is also something to look at.>
Thanks
for the help!
<You're welcome and good luck. James (Salty Dog)>
Paula Second Floor Tank Size 8/21/05
Hey guys,
<Howdy,
Ali here...>
I am a budding marine aquarist who is planning to set
up a 55 gallon tank in my 2nd floor apartment. A concern I have, being
on the 2nd floor, is the weight-bearing capacity of the floor. I've
heard from other credible sources that you could basically put a 55
gallon tank anywhere and that the weight shouldn't be an issue. What do
you guys say.
<Shouldn't be of too much concern as long as your
apartment building has met all the building flooring codes>
I really
appreciate your help. Should I get a smaller tank, a 45 gallon or
less. My other question is are glass tanks more prone to leaking than
acrylic? I'm leaning towards getting an Oceanic glass tank or an AGA
tank. Again, I truly appreciate your help. Gary
<The standard 55
gallon tank has horrible dimensions for a saltwater or reef tank (way
too narrow). Consider setting up a 40 gallon breeder or a standard 50
gallon (the 50 will be a better choice if you plan on utilizing a 3-5"
fine grain sand bed). Both have great surface area and are easy to work
with along with being very reef 'friendly'. I personally prefer glass
tanks and have never had any leak on me. AGA and Oceanic both make solid
products, I highly doubt you will have issues with yours, especially if
you stick to a 40 or 50 gallon sized aquarium. Good Luck Gary!-Ali>
General Advice re size/shape of tank for SW Tank Setup
11/5/06
Hey Crew,
<Jeremy>
I just need some general
advice regarding Tank Size and an Emperor Angel. I am about to buy a
fully setup 120 gallon system from a co-worker to upgrade from my 55
gallon setup. As it happens, I was at the LFS the other day and saw a
different sized 125 gallon tank. It was very long (7ft I think, about
as long as the 215, just not as wide or tall) and not like the show tank
style (only 4 ft long) that I would be buying.
<Shows how things
change... the "stock" 125's I was familiar with were six feet long>
I am thinking of selling the show tank to a friend and using the
filtration, LR, Lighting, etc. for the longer 125. I remember the
argument Bob made in his book about surface area vs. volume. I can't
see the 4ft 120 being better than the 7ft 125 for the angel.
<Agreed>
I am really upgrading tanks because of the emperor angel I
currently have in the 55. He is still a small juvi (about the size of a
flame angel), but I want him in a bigger tank ASAP. Would he be well
off in the longer 125 or should I hold off, save up and get the 215
later on and just use the show 120 for now?
<Mmm... what time frame
are we talking about here? If it's only a handful of months, I'd hold
off and get the larger system>
The LFS guy said the emperor would be
fine in 125 but I keep reading that I will need a 200 gallon system.
<Eventually even larger>
If both tanks are 7ft long, would 6" extra
depth and height matter that much?
<Could>
I don't want to sound
ignorant, but just trying to think ahead.
If I buy the 125, I
wouldn't have to upgrade the skimmer, wet/dry, add more LR, etc.
again. I have to think about cost too.
<Yes>
Also, I was at a
different LFS the other day and saw a really beautiful tang. It had
similar markings of an Achilles tang, but instead of orange, it was a
mix of bright blue and yellow highlights. The sign said Goldrim, but I
thought they looked similar to Powder Brown Tangs.
Any ideas what it
was?
Thanks,
Jeremy
<Likely either Acanthurus
glaucopareius or A. japonicus. Both are written about and pictured on
WWM. Bob Fenner> Tank shape, maker reliability
I am
thinking of buying an All-Glass bow shaped tank, but my son warns me
that they are unreliable in terms of leaks and/or breakage. Has that
been your experience with them or are they just as reliable as a
"standard" tank? I am considering a 75 gallon for cichlids.
Thanks!
Alice Marshall
<This shape is just as, if not more "strong" than
rectangular aquariums... and this manufacturer has an excellent
reputation (IMO) for quality and consistency. Bob Fenner> Size
DOES Matter! (Choosing A Tank Size)
Hi, my name is Kristine and I
am in the planning stages of a FOWLR set up with aspirations toward
corals waaaay down the line.
<If you're like most hobbyists, I'll bet
that "waaaay down the line" comes sooner than you think it will! LOL>
Ultimately, I would like to have a 100 g tank. HOWEVER, I was thinking
I would start very small (10 g's perhaps) with a small amount of LR and
maybe 2 fish. Maybe even 2 fish (1-2" each) is too much, I
dunno... My idea was to eventually move up and I'd still have a
nice QT when it was needed.
<A good thought!>
Anyway, I had kind
of decided against this idea since I understand that generally speaking,
it is more difficult to achieve and maintain good water quality on a
smaller system. So, I considered even starting out bigger.
Obviously the amount of money involved is a huge consideration, which
makes me a bit leery of doing this. SO, I'm back to toying with
the idea of a 10 gal or so system just to start, just so I can learn as
much as I can and get the basics down (H20 chemistry, maintenance,
etc...) before moving' on up. I am a voracious reader and I value
your opinion and have read info on your site as well as anything else I
can get my hands on.
<Me, too! And I'm a voracious eater, too! And,
on occasion, voracious spender on aquarium stuff...been accused of being
a "voracious wave hog" by my surfing pals, and a "voracious fish geek"
by my significant other! I know the meaning of voracious, man!>
This
is something I've wanted for about 16 years and I am willing to wait
until it's right to "launch out into the deep", so to speak. I
want to take it slow and do things right the first time to minimize
casualties (to both my small charges and my pocketbook).
<Agreed. If
you take a little more time to plan it right, you'll reap the rewards
down the line- and, more important, so will your animals!>
My real
question is twofold: 1) is a 10 g set up as described above
(including inhabitants) a good or bad idea and 2) if
it IS a good idea for me to start small and use this arena as an
experiment of sorts, what equipment would you recommend to set it all
up?
<Well, I really think that you should consider a larger tank...a
minimum of 40 gallons. To be honest with you, a small, or "nano" tank is
not as easy to keep as you might think. In my opinion, The environmental
fluctuations, maintenance demands, and lack of a margin for error make a
small tank very difficult to maintain. There is a seemingly harsh, but
possibly correct school of thought which suggests that, if you cannot
afford the equipment for a 40 gallon tank, you can't afford this hobby!
Now, that really is a bit harsh...but it may be true. Yes, larger tanks
are more expensive to outfit properly, but I'd rather see you save your
money and slowly assemble the equipment that you need for a larger
system. We receive soo many emails from people who'd like to keep that
"one extra fish" or invert in their small tank, and it can be
frustrating to discourage them from adding that animal! However, a
tremendous amount of restraint is required when you keep small tanks-
something many of us don't have! Try to go with a larger system, and
you'll think yourself many times over in the future! Really, in the
end-"more is less!">
The wealth of experience and information you
have all provided have been priceless. Many thanks for your time
and this wonderful resource! Kristine
<Thank you so much for visiting
the WWM site! Let us know if you have any questions or concerns
regarding your setup and future plans! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>
- Metric Conversion -
Dear Crew:
Just an FYI regarding the
questioner who thinks that 600 liters is "close to 300 gallons US." This
is not so--it is only "close to" 160 gallons: 600 L times 1.06
Q/L divided by 4 Q/G equals 159 gallons. <Doh!> More simply: 600 L
divided by 3.79 L/G equals 158G. The discrepancy between these two
formulas comes from rounding 1.057 Q/G to 1.06 Q/G.
If one does not
want to memorize conversion factors, here are three great links to
online automatic converters for all sorts of
measurements: <This is
exactly what I do.>
http://www.convert-me.com/en/
http://www.admiralmetals.com/metric_conv.htm
http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html
Thanks for al
your advice since I started this great hobby last Christmas,
Steve
Allen
<Thanks Steve, will post on the dailies and hopefully everyone
in the crew who can't convert metric will see it. Cheers, J -- >
Does Size Matter? Tank Size that is...
Hey guys,
I currently
have a 45(36x12) gal I am thinking about setup for FOWLR. I only have a
space large enough for a 36" tank. I have thought about getting a 65
Gal(36x18). I know that the additional depth will help far aquascaping.
<It can, depending upon the biotope that you are trying to replicate...>
My question is, will there be a great difference in water stability due
to the larger size, to off set the cost of the new tank, stand, and the
loss taken on the 45 gal that I have no use for otherwise. Also what
fish cannot go into the 65?
<Well, when you take into account the
amount of water displaced by sand, rocks, etc. that 20 gallons can make
a difference. Even the 65 gallon tank will probably hold less than 40
gallons of water once it's ultimately stocked and aquascaped, so there
is some validity to buying the largest system that you can. And, by the
way, you could always use the 45 as a sump/refugium for your 65 or
larger, which will effectively increase your system's capacity! Just a
thought!>
Dwarf angel, trigger, tang, puffer, will they be to large
and work against my bio on the LR?
<Well, I'd personally hold off on
any trigger, tang, and some puffers in anything less than a 100 gallon
tank. That's my personal bias, but it is mainly based upon the ultimate
size that these fishes can achieve, their need for physical "space", and
the quantity of metabolic wastes that they are capable of producing. A
well-stocked 65, or even 45 gallon tank can be every bit as impressive
as a much larger tank if a few simple rules are followed concerning
bioload, equipment and aquascaping. If 45 gallons is what you have to
work with, then try to assemble a system and animals to compliment a
tank of that size. Have fun! Regards, Scott F. >
Thanks again for a
great site and service you provide to our hobby. -Randy
Maximum Reef tank height? 11/2/03
Hi Crew,
<howdy>
What
is the maximum height you can make a reef aquarium before you run into
problems? I am considering a 48" tall tank.
Thanks, Greg
<for
the very generic/vague nature of your question, I am not sure how to
respond. By problems, do you mean from poor light penetration )mp
worries here... scale lighting appropriately with metal halides for
punch)... or do you mean "problems" regarding adequate gas exchange with
water at depth (can be tempered by aspirating skimmers/reactors and
ozone). Is this a DIY tank? If so, you cannot build safely over 30"
without a laminate or 4-sided capture. You need to do much more research
here my friend. Do browse our archives on big tanks. Anthony>
Tank volume or area
Bob,
I'm just starting out researching and
reading a lot on your site and through books (just purchased Reef
Invertebrates yesterday). I'm at the stage of deciding on the size of
the tank. I want a tank that will fit an alcove in our family for
built-in look. I'm looking at two bowfront reef ready tanks made by
Oceanic to fit in the space: a 72 gallon (48Wx18Dx23H) and a 90 gallon
(48Wx18Dx28H). My question is whether its worth getting the larger
tank, the 90 gallon, even though the added volume is due to the greater
height of the tank, 28" versus 23". Is the additional 5" going to
require significantly more lighting and be more difficult to
maintain? Thanks.
<Good questions... if the lost space at the top
doesn't present maintenance/access challenges to you, "bigger is
better"... more stable chemically and physically, more pleasing
aesthetically. You are correct that the other dimensions (length, width)
would be better made large rather than height... for your livestock as
well as you functionally... but I would go with the larger system, and
not be overly concerned re lighting. Bob Fenner> Is Bigger
Better (Large Tanks)
Are large aquariums better than small
aquariums? And if so, explain how? Thanks
<Well- that is a pretty
broad question, and it may not be as cut and dry as you might think! One
of the big (no pun intended) advantages of large tanks is that they
provide significant water volumes, which assist in the dilution of
organic wastes. Larger water volumes tend to be more environmentally
stable, more forgiving, and, if well-managed, create more optimum
conditions for fishes and invertebrates. Additionally, larger aquariums
give fish more "physical space", which affords them the ability to
establish territories and engage in more natural behaviors.
On the
other hand, larger tanks require more equipment, can be more expensive
to operate, and physically more challenging to clean, because of their
larger dimensions. Some fishes, such as Seahorses, are often kept more
successfully in smaller aquariums, as they can be "closer" to their food
sources. There is so much more to this debate than I could possibly
mention here, but I think that these points can give you a good basis
for your own further analysis. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>
Tank size query
Dear WWM Crew!
I might have to move my
tank!!! I just see an opportunity to upgrade here. I have my fiancée
convinced that I cannot safely move the tank in one day that I need to
have a second tank setup in the new house and have it running for a
while and then transfer all the live rock and live stock slowly over a
month’s time!
>>Nice work!>>
BTW, rather than moving my DSB, I’m
going to set a new one up in the new tank and seed it with sand from the
current one!
>>That's the way to do it.
I even have permission
to retain my existing 72G bow-front as a second tank!!!!
>>Nice!>>
And now to the question… The tank will not be on a concrete slab and
so the weight does matter. Do you think a standard 90G tank of
dimensions
48X18X24 inches is better or an oceanic 77G tank that is
60X13X23 inches is better? Volume versus length? The 77G may end up with
a 15G sump, while the 90G may be sumpless or have a 10G at the most…
>>Well, it depends on what you are keeping. If you are doing a reef I
would go with the 90 - the depth allows for better aquascaping. If you
are going with fish, the length may be better - although that 13 inch
dimension worries me. So scrap what I said. I thin the 90 is better!>>
I’m concerned most about the 13 inch width of the 77G tank. Live stock
includes a Kole tang (currently 4”) which will be my largest ‘guest’ by
far!
>>Although the 4 foot length of the 90 isn't really enough for
a tang. Why not go with a 150? 60x24x24?>>
Also I’m worried about
the lack of width limiting my live rock aquascaping options.
>>Me
too!>>
Narayan
>>Rich>> Re: Tank size query
Thanks
Rich!
Nothing is final right now, but the house is not likely to
have a finished basement and so the tank may be on the 1st or second
floor. The weight of the 150 gallon tank will require strengthening the
floor. I'm concerned for my Kole tang who is currently 4" and maybe 2-3
years old. I want him to be around for the next 15-20 years at least and
don't think my current 72G BF is going to be enough. The tank will not
be a full-blown reef, but will contain a few colonies of mushroom coral
etc. I really am looking for a setup that will be under 1000 lbs and the
77G is the longest tank I can get with that restriction. As for
aquascaping, I'll just have to do my best with what I have, so will a
Kole tang be happier in a 60X13 inch area or a 48X18 area?
>>That's
a toughie. If it were me I would go for the longer tank and leave as
much swimming room as possible.>>
Thanks,
Narayan
>>Rich>>
Re: Tank size query
Thanks Rich!
Based on your reply it
sounds like either solution is not acceptable. I was hoping to stay with
glass aquariums, but I guess acrylic may be the way to go. Tenecor has a
90 gallon flat back hex that is 60" on the back side, 48" on the front
side, 18" wide and 20" tall. This is almost twice the price of the
oceanic 77G. In your opinion, is this worth an extra $600? Will it make
enough of a difference to a Kole tang?
Narayan
>>I don't know
about the hex. My gut tells me the 90 would be better because the extra
panels reduce the swimming space. What about a 100 glass - I think they
are pretty standard at 60x18x20 (or close to that).
Rich>> Re:
Tank size query
Rich.
Tenecor, Tru Vu and SeaClear make
acrylic tanks in a 100G 60X18X20 size.
Unfortunately all-glass,
oceanic and perfecto don't! Do you know who might make a 100G 60" GLASS
tank?
Thanks in advance,
Narayan
>>Sorry, I don't! I hardly
ever say this but I think your best bet is to go to a couple LFS and see
what they have to say - they have the catalogs right there.
Let me
know what you find out.
Rich>>
A weighty question
How much does a 65 US Gallon Fish tank weigh
when filled with water and regular fish.
Thanks
Teresa Martin
<Mmm, well, about ten pounds per gallon... including gravel et al... so
approximately 650-700 pounds overall. Do read on WetWebMedia.com re
stands, spreading out this mass on your floor. Bob Fenner>
Tank Dimensions
Hi there. I hope everybody is well! I am buy a
new tank and I have the following 2 options when it comes to size:
a)
70" x 23"(w) x 23"(h) - 155 Gallons
b) 78" x 18"(w) x 23"(h) - 125
Gallons
Option (b) is the one that I really want to choose, because I
like long tanks, but 30 gallons seem to be quite a significant amount of
water and I'm not sure if the tank would be wide enough. If you had to
keep a FOWLR setup with some "big" fish of say 8 inches in size, would
the 18 inches be wide enough? The only problem I have with option (a) is
that it looks "smaller", despite the extra gallons.
<If you intended
fishes have a maximum adult size of 8 inches, either tank would work
fine. I would get what you want.>
I have ready through many of your
articles and FAQ's and it looks like you generally suggest the "long and
low" approach, so would "long and narrow" be better than "short and
wide" in this case?
<In this case, neither tank is of the high
variety and either would serve you well.>
Thanks in advance, Chris
<Have a nice day! -Steven Pro> How tall is too tall?
Hello Bob and the rest of the crew,
<part of the rest of the crew
says Hi! right back at you. Anthony Calfo in your service>
Thanks for
all your hard work. What an exhaustive amount of very helpful
information!
<a labor of love>
I am considering buying a new tank
from a guy who builds custom tanks for a living. For whatever reason, he
has a new tank that did not get sold, so he is trying to get rid of it
at a great price. The only problem is that it is a little taller than I
would prefer. The dimensions are 48"long by 18"wide by 36"tall.
<if
built out of half inch glass this should have sealed stringers (glass
braces) or a meta capture (banding) if it is structurally sound. Is the
tank maker a professional or a local with a caulking gun?>
120-125
gallons I think. I plan on doing a reef system with sand, LR, soft
corals and a select few fish. I foresee myself getting into LPS, maybe
SPS, and a clam or two in the future.
<the clams and SPS will be
great together and in your case you might luck out with the LPS too in
such a nicely deep tank (they will be kept in lower half of tank). Do
resist too much mixing of these groups for long term success with either
though>
I am going to build the rock up in height as much as is
practical to get the corals closer to the lights. <necessary for
the SPS and Clams> Do you feel this tank is too tall for a reef?
<not at all... a very nice tank with lots of lighting options for corals
at various depths>
I know, I know, what kind of lights am I going to
use? Good question. I have been reading the articles and FAQ's
extensively and I will most likely go with either PC's or VHO.
<this
will make it rather difficult unless you can keep most of your corals in
the top 12" of the tank. Halides are more cost effective in terms of
cost of power vs. light produced>
I don't want to get in MH (too many
other issues to deal with).
<heat and expense of operation shouldn't
be factors... marketing misrepresentations>
Concerning lighting, I
have a question. Reading through the lighting FAQ's, I noticed that Bob
tends to recommend a mix of 75% full spectrum and 25% actinic blue
whereas some of the other contributors recommend a
50/50 mix. Is this
just a matter of opinion?
<nope... really a matter of the animals
you keep. Emphasis on daylight for shallow water species (SPS and blue
clams)... or 50/50 for deeper water animals (LPS, Zoantharians)>
What
would be better for my future setup?
<2-175 watt 10K halides at
minimum. If you will go mostly for SPS corals, then you are a candidate
to 2-250 watt halides. Please don't let anyone talk you into 400watt
halides unless you can rule out LPS and will go hardcore on shallow
colored SPS corals>
Thanks, Mark Miami, FL
<kindly, Anthony>
Minimum Tank Sizes
Mr. Fenner,
<Steven Pro at your service.>
I'm setting up a 75 gallon aquarium, 48x18x24. I'm doing things right in
that I'm researching and researching and researching.
<Good to hear.>
I am going to have fantastic filtration through an AquaC EV-180 and a
Lifereef Berlin sump. I am going to have a refugium about 20 gallons.
This will give me approximately 110 gallons of water, counting tank,
sump, and refugium. However, that's not including liverock volume.
<Correct, I was just about to mention that.>
When a fish such as an
angel, is listed at 100 gallons minimum, does that mean you tank should
have the length dimensions of a tank that would be about 100 gallons, or
are you looking at volume of water including from all sources listed
above?
<Actually both. They need the swimming room (dimensions) and
the water volume to dilute pollutants.>
I certainly don't want to
crowd any animals, as I will not have very many in my tank. However,
could an angel, or a butterfly like semilarvatus, listed at 100 gallons
be happy in a 75 gallon as I have described?
<No, not in the long
run.>
A very respectable marine fish retailer mentioned that most
fish, if introduced to a tank when they are only a few inches long won't
outgrow the tank. Is this true?
<Yes, but that is because they will
die prematurely.>
I hope this wasn't too confusing.
<Not at all.
FYI, when in doubt, under stock. You and your fishes will be much
happier and healthier.>
Thanks for the help! Brandon Wilson
<You
are welcome. -Steven Pro> Tank Height
My tank will be
72" long. I'm trying to decide how high and how wide it will be.
<More of both!>
The prevailing opinion seems to be that 24" high
is ideal, both for purposes of cleaning and with respect to light
penetration. I think, however, from an aesthetic point of view, a 30"
high tank will look nicer. Can another 6" really make it that much more
difficult to light and clean?
<Mmm, yes... unless you're a basketball
playing body plan... it's tough to reach down that far... and light
intensity does drop off badly with depth... however, there are tools...
and brighter lights!>
With respect to width, Tullock's book
recommends at least 18" because the aquascaping potential at 12" is too
limited. Will another 6" -- that is, a 24" width -- materially improve
the aquascaping possibilities? I suppose the wider width also means
better side views.
<Yes>
Is this all just a matter of personal
taste or is there a right answer?
<It's... a combo! A blend/mix
between function and esthetics... I do think that 30" is a practical
maximum for a six foot length system both-wise. Bob Fenner>
Tank Size 3/22/03
Hey Phil,<Hey Tyler>
how's it goin<It's
going good> i have a few easy questions for ya again.<Shoot>
if you
had to choose between two tank that held the same amount, would you pic
the one that was 72x18x22 or the one that's 48x22x26.<I like tanks that
are wider. To me it's better for the fish.> i prefer the longer one but
what would the fish prefer.<Depends on the fish> Would it be better to
have two hippo tangs in this tank or a hippo and then after the hippo
gets a little larger ad a smaller yellow tang.<In this size tank, you
can only keep one Hippo Tang. Head over to
www.wetwebfotos.com/talk and talk to "Freckleface" on our forums. She
will tell you all about her little (well not anymore) Hippo Tang.> also
how come on a lot of people web sites their hippo tang look purple., It
could be the lighting on the tank, types of foods that are fed, could be
from a different part of the South Pacific.> thanks a lot again your
really helping me out (i will hopefully have my tank this
weekend)<Sounds very sweet... please keep me updated.. p.s. pictures
would be nice!! :) Phil> New tank and no clue where to
start...
I just got a new, used tank for Christmas and am
interested in setting it up as a reef tank. It is a 61 gallon Plexiglas
tank with a divider down the middle which has 2, 2 inch holes in it. The
dimensions are roughly 4 feet side to side, 1 foot back to front, and
about 3 feet top to bottom. There is a Plexiglas rim all around the top
of the tank that is probably an inch or so wide which would, I think,
prevent me from putting any hang on filter systems without cutting away
some of this rim. There are 2 spouts on either of the 2 top corners
which I am told are to be used for gravity filter systems but they are
broken and will need to be replaced if I intend to use them. My
questions for you are first, does the aforementioned description seem
like a viable tank for a reef tank? Further, what type of filtering
systems and lighting would you suggest to get the tank up and running. I
am really lost as to where I should go from here so any help would be
great. Thanks.
<<Well, the shape of this tank is a bit
problematical... better to have something more flat and wide... rather
than tall and narrow... for looks and functions sake... the more surface
area the better.
Be this as it maybe/is, the tank you have is...
well, the tank you have... and it can be made into a working reef...
but, if you haven't kept marines before, I strongly encourage you to try
just keeping a "Fish Only" system for a few months (much easier, more
forgiving).
Take a look around at different filter possibilities. A
"hang on" system or components like a skimmer are still possibilities,
even if the lip of the tank must need be cut (not all the way to the
edge... minimally). Or better still, much flexibility and safety can be
gained by situating a sump/reservoir under, behind or to the side of the
main tank, and placing much of your water conditioning gear there, using
a pump to move the water back to the display tank.
You need to
consider how best to route this water exchange, but don't be dissuaded
from the possibility of drilling, cutting the top or back to fit through
hull fittings. Scan the net, visit other hobbyists who have tanks, read
the books on marine aquariums you can lay hands on, and contact an
acrylic fabricator in your area if possible (look in the phone et al.
directories under "plastics").
And do "ring me back" if you have
specific queries. Bob Fenner>> First Tank, What Size?
I'm kicking around some ideas about my first salt water tank. I was
wondering what you suggest I get as far as size and what animals to put
in there. I was going to try to start with clowns but am interested in
breeding them. Are they an easy fish to breed and what species do you
suggest as a first attempt at both care and breeding?
<<Thanks for
asking! As far as size, "the bigger the better"... at least a forty
gallon... for stability and flexibilities sake... the tank can't be too
big. Measure up your space available and wallet, make a list of all the
gear, livestock you'd like... and put in as large a system as you think
you can handle... Trust me.
Clownfishes are an excellent breeding
start... As are some types of Cardinalfishes (family Apogonidae)... the
males of the latter are mouthbrooders...
Be chatting, Bob
Fenner, who will risk the chance of sounding self-serving (as a pet-fish
writer/photographer), but do read about the hobby as much as you
consider prudent before plunking down the big bucks...>> Tank
Capacity Formula
How do you estimate how many gallons are in a
tank. Mike Williams
<<A few ways... mainly by multiplying the inside
dimensions in inches and multiplying the length, width and depth
together, dividing by 231 (cubic inches per gallon)... to yield the
gallons... If it's a real big tank you can do the math in feet: L X W X
H divided by 7.48... gives gallons... Or if it's a real big, irregular
tank, or has a lot of stuff displacing the water in it... and you need a
better idea way... you can use a watch with a second hand, a bucket of
known volume and a garden hose to gauge (by measuring how long it takes
to fill the bucket per whatever volume it is) how many "bucket-fill
equivalents" it takes to fill your tank... Bob Fenner>> Tank
size?
Hi:
<Cheers, Anthony Calfo in your service>
I'm going
to be able to move soon, so I'm considering to a larger tank, I'm going
for a 300 ltr (80 g) tank, Can you tell me the best dimension for the
tank ( I want to have different tangs)?
<for fishes...low and long
(for gas exchange, territorial dispersion, etc) is recommended. Hence, a
six foot long 80 gallon would be better than a four foot long 80 gallon
tank. Mixing tangs is difficult in such a small tank. Many are not
tolerant of each other and most have adult sizes that are way too big
for an 80 gallon tank. Please research your fishes adult sizes and
husbandry well before you buy them>
Also can you give me any
suggestions, the best sump dimension/system? skimmer? the stand? Rene
<much information has been written about this in the WWM archives... an
enormous resource. Please browse the FAQs and articles on the topics you
desire. In a nutshell though... I'd say a wet/dry system with bio-balls,
a Euroreef skimmer and a reliable auxiliary filter for carbon, backup
and QT fixes like an Eheim. Best regards, Anthony>
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