FAQs about Giant Clam Lighting Design,
Fixtures
Related Articles: Got Tridacna? A beginner's guide to
keeping Tridacnid clams by
Laurie Smith, Example Chapter
from NMA Reef Invertebrates book, on Giant Clams, Tridacnids, A Brief
Guide to the Selection and Placement of Tridacnid
Clams by Barry Neigut,
Bivalves,
Mollusks, Lighting Marine
Invertebrates,
Related FAQs: Tridacnid Lighting 1, Tridacnid Lighting 2, &
FAQs on Tridacnid Lighting: Science/Application, Lamps/Bulbs, Duration, Quality and Intensity,
Trouble/Fixing, Makes/Models/Manufacturers, &
Tridacnid Identification, Tridacnid Selection, Tridacnid Compatibility, Tridacnid Systems, Tridacnid Placement, Tridacnid Feeding, Tridacnid Disease, Tridacnid Reproduction, Tridacnids 1, Tridacnids 2, Tridacnids 3, Tridacnids 4, Tridacnid Clam Business, Bivalves, Bivalves 2, Lighting Marine
Invertebrates,
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Mmm, choices depend on species used, position,
depth of tank, "other factors"....
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LED Spot lighting
10/29/11
Hello, it has been a while since I have asked a question directly. Most
of the time I find the answers to my questions in the vast amount of
information you have built over the years on your website. It truly is
an asset.
<Ah yes>
My question today has to do with leds for a sparsely populated reef
tank. I have a crocea clam that is about 5 years old now and has
increased in size considerably over time under 175 watt 10k halides. It
is by far, the most light demanding specimen in the tank. I have
recently moved into an Incorporated town with ridiculous electric
rates! I am an avid diyer so want to try my hand at an led fixture.
Using known, quality products to create a light that fits my needs. My
tank is a 180 with the clam in the middle and just a few other, less
demanding corals, throughout the tank. My thought is, why buy 110 leds
to light the whole tank when I only need the intense light in specific,
permanent spots. I can use high quality leds with a more focused lens
where needed, and light the rest of the tank with a lens that spreads
the light more evenly, to less than normal reef standards. It would
save energy, and look pretty neat in my opinion. I would always be able
to upgrade in the future as well. I guess my question is, how much
should I be using to focus on the clam?
<A good deal. In other words, I do think some simple reflectoring
about the Crees will do it here>
It is 10" below the surface, I would think maybe 2 or 3 focused 3
watt daylight Cree leds should do the trick?
<Try this out... w/ a PAR meter to test>
I am certain there will be some adjustments, but want to shock the clam
as little as possible.
Thank you for any input!
Rob
<Please do report back your observations. Bob Fenner>
Metal Halide Vs T5 HO
5/28/11
Hello guys and gals! John here. I hate to add to the large amount of
questions you receive and answer. I also know that reef lighting is an
open for debate topic. I am currently using a Current T5 HO Nova
Extreme fixture on a 90 gallon (48" long) Mixed reef with clams. I
am wanting to use that fixture for a propagation tank of LPS. My
consideration for a replacement is either an ATI 36" 8 bulb
fixture, with individual reflectors, or a 48" Ice Cap MH. I have
read The Book Of Coral Propagation. I am reading the Conscientious
Marine Aquarist but I can't find the answer I am looking for.
I guess I am looking for someone more knowledgeable than myself ,that
is not trying to sell me something, to give me advice. Thank you so
much for all of your help in the past and future.
<Mmm, well all three fixtures could/would work... a bit of an
equation/expression is the amount of energy and time you're
interested in investing in for the amount of growth you'd like...
the MH fixture here will get you the most growth in shorter time, but
with more operational cost (a few tens of percent)... the HO an
intermediate time frame/growth... and your present fixture last... Is
this response satisfying? Bob Fenner>
Re: Metal Halide Vs T5 HO
5/29/11
Yes and no. I guess I should have been more specific. Lighting is such
a tough topic. I have Crocea and Squamosa clams but I would like to add
Maxima. according to Anthony Calfo, Crocea clams are the most light
demanding. everything else I read and hear says Maximas need MH.
<Not necessarily... but as you state, high intensity...>
I am a bit confused, since my Croceas are doing well. I don't want
light overkill but I would like the maximum light for growth, health
and aesthetics of my invertebrates. Would Metal Halides be
overkill?
<Mmm, better to have you search WWM re PAR, metering... How to put
it/this... it's not the technology or means of producing photonic
energy that is important, but the cost of production, application
(depth, water clarity, colour....) that's important>
I suppose that is really what I was after. My tank is 48x24x18.
<... and so sometimes Maximas, Gigas clams are "placed up
higher" in the water column>
Thanks again for your quick response
and helpful info.
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Metal Halide Vs T5 HO 5/30/2011
<Hello John. Bob has asked me to respond to your query as I had
reviewed the Orphek PR 156 LED
fixture.>
Well, to either confuse or simplify matters, While I was on WWM
researching PAR metering, I ran into the article by James (Salty Dog)
on the Orphek PR-156.
Would one of these fixtures work for the dimensions of my tank? That
would be a great alternative if I could use just one fixture.
<My test of the PR 156 showed that it would easily cover an area of
about 30" x 24" with the lens placed about four inches above
the surface of the water. The fixture I tested incorporated the 90
degree reflectors.
Since that time a new model was released dubbed the PR 156W which uses
120 degree reflectors which spread the light out even further at the
cost of some intensity. My advice before laying out the cash would be
for you to contact Douglas at Orphek as to the ability of the PR 156W
to effectively
light your tank dimensions while still providing enough intensity to
satisfy your light loving animals. He can be reached at usa@orphek.com >
Thanks again.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Metal Halide Vs T5 HO
Thanks James. You folks are invaluable.
<You're welcome John, and thank you for your kind words. James
(Salty Dog)>
Tridacnid sys./lighting
9/12/09
<Hi Eddie, James replying for Mike who will be out a few
weeks.>
Well would you consider a clam for being light hungry. I just want to
make sure that the 150watt would be able to penetrate to the bottom
where I would place a clam(not sure yet on which one). Thanks for
helping me. I was really surprised at how fast you replied considering
the amount of emails you probably get.
<The T. Maxima, and crocea are considered light loving clams, twin
150 watt HQI lamps in your 72 gallon bowfront should be just fine.
James (Salty Dog)>
Blue Clams And Lighting/Clam Lighting
8/18/09
I've a 50 gallon. acrylic LPS Reef setup with 192 watts of PC -
1/96 watt dual daylight/ 460nm actinic and 1/96 watt actinic 460/420 nm
lighting. Do I really need metal halides or will my lighting do? Also,
the 50/50 is timed for 8 hours and the actinic for 10 hrs a day. If
halides are required would a small Nano Viper 150 watt metal halide
clamp-on, at one edge of the tank, work? And if so, how should I time
my new PC/Halide setup?
<Both the Tridacna maxima and crocea require high light levels to
survive, and with that being said, I would recommend using the 150 watt
halide clamp-on with your current lighting photoperiod. Derasa,
squamosa, and gigas clams are much less light needy and can be
successfully kept in tanks 12-14 inches in depth under power compact/T5
lighting.>
Best wishes,
<Regards. James (Salty Dog)>
R. Gene Hayden
Re Blue Clams And Lighting/Clam Lighting 8/18/09
Thanks James;)
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Best wishes,
R. Gene Hayden
Clams I have a few questions first off I was
wondering if there are any butterfly fish that a reef safe? Second
I wanted to know what kind of lighting is needed to keep clams
alive? >> IMO yes... some of this family (Chaetodontidae) are
largely zooplanktivorous (though, of course there are gradations to
almost absolute coral polyp feeders). Some examples: The Longnose
Butterflyfishes of the genus Forcipiger... Chelmons, Chelmonops
species, the Bannerfish genus members: Heniochus, the Raccoon
Butterflyfishes, Chaetodon lunula and C. fasciatus... There are others,
and the family, it's uses detailed in articles stored at
www.wetwebmedia.com Clams? As in giant clams (family Tridacnidae)
require bright/intense, full-spectrum lighting to optimize their growth
and color... most folks use Very High Output Fluorescents on the low
end to Compact Fluorescents and Metal Halides on the high... depending
on tank depth, desired effects. Bob Fenner
Crocea Clam lighting 3/15/03 I would like to
buy a Crocea Clam and would like to know how close to the lights it
would need to be. Its a 55 Gallon tank 20 inches deep with 4 36inch
VHO's 2 Super Actinic URI 1 Actinic White URI 1 Aquasun URI
<within the top 12" of the water surface will be fine, my
friend. Have you read the sample chapter on Tridacnids from our new
book, by the way? Click on the chapter link on this page: http://wetwebfotos.com/store/nma-ri.html
best regards, Anthony>
Clam Lighting How many hours per day of high
intensity lighting does a 2-3 inch maxima clam need if it is placed in
a 20 inch deep tank with 2-175W metal halide bulbs suspended 12 inches
above the surface of the water? <<Hi Jacqueline, Craig
answering while the WWM crew is attending MACNA. Clams are light hungry
and require the highest intensity lighting. Even with 175 watt MH's
I would still place this clam close to the top of the tank. The very
minimum would be six hours a day with the best of light but I would
about double that to ten to twelve hours for your clam to grow and
thrive. I personally use 12 hours. Small clams do well placed in a
removable container so they can be target fed with phytoplankton.
Feeding is actually more important for small clams than light at this
stage, although they need the best of both to thrive. Cheers,
Craig>>
Clam lighting for a 75 gallon Hello there, I
have a 75 gallon tank with two of the 48 inch Aqualights, which total
520 watts of light. Split it would be 4 10,000k bulbs and 4 actinics,
which are 65 watts each. Anyway, would this be enough light for 1 or 2
clams if kept in about the middle of the tank or closer to the
top? Jim >>Wow,
Jim! First, have you gone through this section on our
site?--> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm
Here is some more information specific to lighting questions-->
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm
>>Part of the issue is species of clam, for instance Tridacna
derasa and Hippopus can do well with lower
lighting. I'll assume that you would like to know which
species you can keep with the lighting you have available for them, and
I see no reason why you couldn't keep either of these
species. If you wanted to get something like T. crocea, then
I would be sure to place it higher up. >>>>Ok guys, I'd
like to bump this to someone who REALLY knows their stuff on the
clams. I've spent about an hour reading through old
FAQ's and as many articles that appear to be related, but I feel I
can't give a very complete answer regarding which species will do
well with his lighting, or which might be better, as I've not had
experience with every species. Also, because of this lack of
experience, I can't tell him which species *can* be placed up on
rockwork, and which others will do better on the tank
bottom. Nor can I advise him on specific bulbs, and I
don't want bad information to slip by or to have left something
important out. Thanks!<<<<
Maxima Clam light 4/22/03 I've read
through the FAQ's and the link to the chapter in your new book, but
I am still unsure as to whether or not I can successfully keep a T.
maxima. <OK> I have a 75 gallon tank and run two separate PC
fixtures and a twin tube fluorescent fixture. One PC fixture
has two 50/50, 65 watt bulbs (130 total) and the other has two 50/50,
55 watt (110 total) bulbs. These two fixtures are at the
front of the tank. The dual tube fluorescent fixture sits at
the back of the tank and has a 10,000k and an actinic bulb that amount
to 70 total watts. Do you think I could keep a maxima if I place it on
a rock about 6 inches under the lights at the front of the tank (under
the pc's). <yes... easily> I believe I have the
perfect spot for one, that is, if the lighting is adequate...
<agreed> Oh one more thing... will it be bothered if I place it
next to Xenias? <not likely at all... Xenia is quite passive>
Thanks <kindly, Anthony>
Clam lighting recommendations Thanks now for
my lighting what would you recommend for my 24" cube, I would like
to keep a clam or two. I am looking at MH & PC lighting. Thank Dave
<Hi Dave, For clams and high light demanding inhabitants, a 175 watt
MH (or 250 watts) perhaps with two VHO or PC actinic bulbs to
supplement the blue spectrum would be ideal. I would favor the 250 watt
for the depth and they are available in a "radium" which may
do away with the need for actinic lighting. The color
rendition is a personal choice, you may want to look at clams under
different types of lighting to "see" the difference. The blue
light will definitely help "fire" the colors of clams and
corals. For PC's try to find "true" actinic
blue bulbs. I prefer VHO myself, with Ice Cap ballasts very flexible.
(Can drive PC/NO/HO/VHO). Have Fun! Craig>
Maxima clam lighting - 9/3/03 Greetings WWM
Crew! <Hello Kev. Paul here to help> Thanks for your dedication,
expertise, and this website. <Yes, indeed. Thank you
Bob!> It is an invaluable resource. <Agreed and always
much improving thanks to your query!> I would like to add small
Maxima clam to my 10 gal reef, but fear my current lighting is
insufficient. It is a 28W, 10,000K 50/50 that stands on legs
such that the bottom of the light fixture is 2.5" from the water
surface. The spot I would like to place the clam is about
2" below the water surface and there is no lid on the aquarium.
<Hmmmmm. I think this is grossly insufficient.> Is
this enough light? <Unfortunately this is unsuitable for any clam.
This is quite a small tank for such an inhabitant (it can be done
though), but more light is definitely needed before adding such a
beautiful animal. Lower light clams are more along the lines of the
Squamosa clams but again there just isn't enough light here. Give a
call to Barry at www.clamsdirect.com. He is super knowledgeable and
offers great advice on what you will need to keep clams o plenty!
-P> Best Regards, Kevin.
Clams under PCs? 9/1/03 I think this one is
for Anthony or Bob. I was reading the Reef Invertebrates
book and there was a section that stated you could keep certain clams
under PCs. <you can keep even the most demanding SPS
corals and clams under standard fluorescent lighting as long as the
bulbs are properly close to the water (no further than 3" off
surface) and the invertebrates are kept shallow enough (less than
10" of water)> My tank is a 125 gallon (72x18x20), actually
112, but sold to me as a 125 :-( Anyway, I'm in the
process of upgrading everything on my tank. I'm adding a
sump/refugium, live rock, more lighting. I currently have 2
96W Smartlites, but am going to add two more 96W fixtures. I
was planning on having 2 10,000K and 2 Actinics. Would these
be enough to keep clams? <indeed... no worries. Do keep
your most demanding creatures like clams with the top 16" of the
surface under PC.s> Thanks, and I love the book. I just
purchased the BOCP. <thanks kindly... will have it posted promptly
tomorrow! Anthony>
Clam Lighting Questions Dear WWM crew, I
hate to make a nuisance of myself, but I have a couple more questions
(several of them are probably stupid, but, hey, I won't know if I
don't ask, right?) <Truly, the only stupid question is the one
not asked! Especially if lack of asking kills animals.> I
went back to the store, and the Crocea was gone (big surprise) but they
now have a beautiful purple maxima for the same price. I was
talking about getting it when a friend and fellow reef keeper jumped
down my throat for dooming a clam to certain death by trying to keep it
under VHO's when all clams MUST have MH. <Tell your friend to
settle down and 'don't believe the hype!'> He even
pulled a reef-keeping handbook off the store shelf at random (hardly
the most responsible method, I know) and showed me that it says they
require MH. Even your own FAQ's seem to mention MH a
lot. But then other articles say they can be kept under
normal fluorescents! I know it has a lot to do with depth
and distance between bulb and water, but aren't there some sort of
guidelines? Can a med-large purple maxima be kept under
VHO's? <MH is certainly recommended. As a general
rule, the more light they get, the better clams do, however, as long as
you exceed their minimum requirements, they will do
fine. Growth may be a bit slower, but they will do
fine. In your tank, under 3xVHO's, I would certainly
keep a clam in the upper 8-12 inches.> In the same vein, I also
looked at (and ended up purchasing) the most beautiful
Frogspawn/Octobubble I have ever seen. It had been there for
a month, under 3x4' VHO's, and was doing great. I
also know your website says these corals need moderate light and
current, and I would have thought my system about perfect, but again,
my friend and his handbook both insist they require bright MH light and
very brisk current. <The level of reef keeping has been raised since
most current available references were published. What was
considered brisk current then, would be moderate at best
now. Your system sounds quite ideal for Euphyllias.> I
must admit that I've not had luck with these before, but after
reading your website, I was thinking it had more to do with the large
numbers of soft corals (many of which I have removed to their own
tank), and not inadequate light. I placed the Frogspawn at
the opposite end of the tank from the overflow/return, about halfway
down. It gets good indirect flow but no strong direct
current. Does that seem reasonable? <Sounds very
reasonable. Overly strong current will prevent the coral
from opening, and you certainly have plenty of
light. Euphyllias are quite sensitive to water quality in
general, and the presence of soft corals in
particular. Water changes and carbon will help ameliorate
these effects.> One thing I would find extremely helpful is if your
descriptions of each coral/clam/animal said something about
light/current/placement requirements. I know that I read something
about different clams having preferences between rocks and sand in the
FAQ's somewhere, but now I can't find it, and the species
descriptions don't say. Same for corals. <Any clam or
coral can be kept on the sand as long as it can't bury
itself. As a rule, Crocea, maxima and Squamosa clams are
rock dwellers, but all can be kept on the sand as long as they get
enough light.> Okay, I am sorry for the length, but I have two last
questions: <No worries! Ask away.> In your
descriptions of placing VHO tubes 3-6 inches above the water, I am
assuming this is without a glass canopy in between? I still
had one on my tank until recently. I grew up with them and
never really thought about removing it until I was thinking seriously
about lighting. <Give up the glass! Glass covers really
do attenuate the light a lot, particularly if they aren't very
clean.> Second, does my colt coral pose a major chemical warfare
problem, or is that mostly a leather coral issue? Can I keep
just a few green star polyps and/or frilly mushrooms in my reef tank
without doing any harm, if I thin them regularly? <All softies will
produce allelopathic chemicals. Sinularia (finger leathers)
and mushrooms are among the worst. Your colt and star polyps
are more dangerous in direct physical encounters. When you
rule out all other causes of ill health in a coral and suspect chemical
warfare, you will have to remove the aggressor or the
victim. In the mean time, keep up the water changes and
frequently changed small amounts of carbon.> Thanks again for all
the advice and help. Jim <Glad
to! Adam>
Clam Lighting Hello <Hey Robert>
Thanks for providing a great web site and valuable advice. <I will
pass your thanks along.> I have a 50 gal reef tank with 4, 36"
VHO lights 2 AquaSun and 2 actinics driven by a icecap 660 ballast. The
lights are about 4" above the water and the water depth is about
15". Is it possible to keep a Tridacna Crocea or Maxima clam? Will
it be ok or slowly die? <In all honesty Robert I'm inclined to
say a Derasa would probably do well under those lights but it might not
be enough for the Crocea or Maxima as they start to grow.> I am
thinking about upgrading my lighting to MH but can't decide what
wattage to go with 150,175 or 250. <If you wish to keep more clams
and more SPS corals then I would suggest the 250 or even a 400
light.> I do have a Montipora Digitata about 8" below the
surface that is thriving under this lighting. <Wonderful. Sounds
like a very lovely tank.> Thanks, Robert Walz <Good luck Robert,
It sounds like you are well on your way. MacL. >
Tridacnid under
Power Compacts - 2/24/04 Hi, crew from fish heaven. <Howdy>
Can one keep Tridacna clams under PC lights? without MH. <Some clams
can adjust better than others. Squamosa and Derasa do a bit better than
Crocea and Maxima. Be sure to keep 'em a little higher in the tank
once acclimated. (acclimation and feeding is very important)>
I'm thinking of putting them 10-12" under the PC's.
<Check out the Forums at www.clamsdirect.com. Proprietor Barry
Neigut is knowledgeable (one of the nice guys in the biz) and is
extremely helpful. Lots of info to be had. Oh, and check out our FAQs
and articles on clams. ~Paulito> Thanks, Bernd from
Honduras.
Clam placement under halides - 1/27/04 You
guys rule! <Thanks> Got a 150W DE MH over a 38 gallon (22+"
deep). Got 4-5" of sand. Would it be acceptable to
place a T. maxima or T. crocea on or near the substrate (approx.
17-18" deep)? <Well, 150 is a little on the low side but I
would go for it. Watch the clam and see how it looks. Maybe slowly move
it towards the mid part of the tank or higher over time. Feel free to
drop by ClamsDirect.com and
ask the experts there in their forum or maybe even call Barry (the
owner) and see what he says. Let him know I sent ya.
~Paul> Or is this too deep for my lighting. <Might be
a little deep. Try it and watch the clam for signs of stress (i.e..
gaping extended mantle far beyond normal, extreme recession of mantle,
not reacting to movement to name a few.) Good luck. ~Paul> Thanks!
-matt
Clams under power compact lighting -
11/17/04 Hi. <Hello, Sharon> I was wondering if a squamosa
clam or any other clams can be kept under 400 watts of power compact
lighting. <Well, based on your tank depth and size I wonder..... The
answer is a bit complicated, but I would like to say "yes!"
if some other points of interests are addressed and the clam is placed
midway to high in the tank. You just might get away with it on the
bottom as well. The tank has to be fully "aged" and by that I
mean it must have been set up for a minimum of eight months, plenty of
coralline algae growth, water chemistry within the suggested
parameters, and have done your research on your particular species of
clam as far as habitat and feeding requirements. It is important to
note that clams do not get 100% of their nutritional needs from
photosynthesis alone. They also need to pull food from the water. A
live phytoplankton might go a long way to help in this endeavor and
there are lots of quality live phytoplankton feeds on the market. I
prefer Reed Mariculture's Phytofeast or DT's Live
Phytoplankton. Also be sure to get your clams from a quality dealer.
This is very important in that you get clams that are properly cared
for in the interim holding, and also are responsible in their
selection. I prefer captive bred over wild clams. As for a purchase
place, I prefer Barry Neigut at www.clamsdirect.com. Period! The guy
knows his stuff, extremely knowledgeable, consults with us here, at
WetWebMedia and other sources, often, has a great selection of captive
bred clams (WYSIWYG), good prices, really a great resource. I don't
get paid to state this, this is just where I have most recently heard
lots of good things, seen him at various reef gatherings, presents at
them too! Do your own research and find your own source and let us know
about it.> The tank is a 135 and is 18 inches deep. thanks a lot
<Thanks Sharon for asking your question here at WetWebMedia. We
really appreciate your participation. ~Paul>
Collegiate
Crewmember Wants a T. maxima - Lighting? + Anthony's
Response Hey Anthony, and\or anyone else willing to chime in:
I'm going to have to downsize to a smaller aquarium when I go to a
dorm, and I'm looking at a "nano" type aquarium with an
enclosed hood, retrofitted with PCs and T5's. I know someone who
mod.s them, and gets 9200Lux @ 1ft depth (about where the clam would be)
using PC and T5 lighting. I have a 7" teardrop
(gold\purple\maroon) maxima, and I'm wondering if this will be
enough. I'm very wary about not keeping it under halides - think
that this would cut it? If not I'll just go with a halide pendant,
I was just hoping I could get away with a hood to help prevent beer in
the aquarium! :D Thanks, Michael <Put that tank in front of the
window, and add phyto and I think you'll be just fine. Adam>
<Your concern for not keeping it under halides is wholly unfounded.
This clam and a majority of Zooxanthellate creatures we see in the
hobby can easily be kept in shallow water under good fluorescent
lighting. No worries. Anthony >
Discrepancy on the Tridacna FAQ page Sat,
19 Mar 2005 On this particular archive of FAQs: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridaclgtgfaqs.htm
there are some major differings of opinion in the lighting Q and
A's. In one question, Anthony is saying to me that clams can
be kept under PCs just fine, and on another Q and A Jim is saying
never try maximas under anything but a 250w halide.
<Interesting> I know that lighting is probably the fuzziest
area of our hobby, and everyone's opinions are contributed to
this site, but this is one heck of a differing opinion! Just
wondered what everyone else thought about this. It just made me
say "whoa!". <Thanks for this Mike... Antoine? BobF
who is of the opinion/stance that all Tridacnids can do
"well" under both types of lighting>
Re: Discrepancy on the Tridacna FAQ page - Jim
Responds I pasted my reply below for clarification - you
might want to read it again. There is NO hard and fast
rule, and it's more a question of intensity rather than type
for starters. I have seen very intense maximas dull down a
bit under less than adequate lighting, although they grew and
thrived despite this. I've also pulled maximas out from
behind rockwork where they had fallen and been pretty much
without light for months on end and were none the worse for wear.
What I said was If you want a "can keep anything I want with
no worries setup" go with a 250W double ended (HQI) fixture,
or a 400 watt mogul setup." This will enable you to keep ANY
clam, maxima or otherwise without worrying about whether or not
your lighting is adequate, or whether or not it will retain the
colors you see when it's shipped to you. Regards Jim
"175 watts is not enough light for the more colorful
Maximas - at least if you want it to retain it's vibrant
colors. Tridacna maxima is actually a very adaptable species, but
under inadequate lighting, they tend to lose their vibrancy. He
should live and grow in your setup though, and I would recommend
you place him in the top third of the tank. Also keep in mind
that these animals are filter feeders throughout their lives,
despite what you may read to the contrary. Add phyto every other
day or so. I've kept and grown T. Maximas with great
success under 150 watt double ended fixtures, but those are
brighter than your 175 watt single ended setup. Brown Maximas, or
even T. squamosa should do fine with your light. Again, the blue
ones will live, but it's not ideal. If you want a "can
keep anything I want with no worries setup" go with a 250W
double ended (HQI) fixture, or a 400 watt mogul setup. 20k looks
better too, IMO. If you upgrade, you can simply start the fixture
fairly high off of the water, and lower it a bit each week until
it's 10" or so above the water. Cheers
Jim"
Re: Discrepancy on the Tridacna FAQ page -
Anthony Responds <Thanks for this Mike... Antoine? BobF
who is of the opinion/stance that all Tridacnids can do
"well" under both types of lighting.> Agreed... all
clams can be kept under any lighting. To be finessed as
needed. Shallow placement under weaker configs, deeper placement
under more intense... considerations for ones water clarity (or
not), etc. Some of my nicest maximas and Croceas through
the years have been kept under hardware-store bought daylight
(6K) lamps with some old Phillips O3 blues for good measure :) 20
and 40 watt lamps ta'boot... shoplights. Ahhh... the 80's
:)
|
Lighting for maxima Dear WWM Crew, Let me
begin by thanking you for this wonderful site! <Thank
you> I have a 29 gallon glass tank with approximately 25 lbs.
of LR, a clown goby, an ocellaris clown, a cleaner shrimp, several
dwarf hermits, and a mandarin. PH is at 8.2, ammonia is almost zero,
same for nitrites, and my nitrates are pretty low. Calcium is about 440
(I'm trying to encourage coralline algae, it's been spreading
well lately). I have wanted to keep a Tridacnid for some time now,
preferably a blue/purple maxima. I really don't have the money for
a metal halide setup, and I've heard that it's possible to keep
them under PC's, as long as they're higher up in the tank.
Could you give me your feelings and suggestions on this? Thanks so much
for all of your time and effort. This site is a lifesaver.
<Anne, PC's can be used to keep clams, but the wattage level
would still have to be high...six to seven watts per gallon. You would
still be looking at a 4x65 watt fixture. Orbit does make a 280 watt
combo, one 150 HQI and two 65 watt PC's, but you are looking at
$430.00. I would look at HQI DIY fixtures. Either way, if you want to
keep a maxima, there is no cheap way out in the lighting department.
James (Salty Dog)>
Clams, lights, Feedings - 7/31/05 Hi <Hi
Steve, Ali here...> I was reading you site about T. Clams and got
mixed information about lighting and feeding T. Clams. Here's my
question can an adult T. Maxima survive and thrive in a 60 aquarium
with 260 watts of PC lighting. <That won't cut it Steve, you
need halides, preferably 2 x 250watt bulbs. P.C. just aren't
intense enough to keep the clam happy long-term.> My second question
is do T. Clams over 5 inches still need to be feed live phytoplankton,
My last is question will a T. Clam eat copepods and such. <No and
no. Intense lighting along with stable (moderate-high) calcium/Alk.
parameters will be enough to keep him healthy and growing> Sorry
about all the questions but I really want one but don't want it to
die a few days later. Thanks <Good luck and keep reading Steve! -
Ali>
Tridacnid clams need intense lighting
8/5/05 Hello Crew, Dr. E here.<<Hello Ethan, Ted on this
end>> Thanks again for the help. This is a quick one....I
have 2 Tridacnid clams, I have 130W daylight and 130W actinic light
is this adequate?<<Probably not.>> I have looked all
over the site and haven't found a good answer concerning
actinic lights and clams.<<Tridacnid clams need intense
lighting. It is possible to keep Tridacnid clams under PC lighting
by keeping the clams closer to the light source (place them higher
on your reef) and/or compensating for the lack of light by feeding.
However, in my opinion, you are better off upgrading to metal
halide lighting. It gives you more options with respect to
placement of the clams as well as the option of adding SPS corals
to your system.>> Thank you. Ethan H. Morris DVM
<<Cheers - Ted>> |
Re: Clams and Upgrading PC Lighting 8/6/05 Thanks
for the response. I am not sure what is available to me so that I
can use metal halide lighting with the setup I have. I have a
Current Dual Lamp light. Do they make bulbs to replace the actinic
and day light I currently have? If they do which one do I
replace?<<You're welcome. MH lighting and PC lighting use
different ballasts and fixtures so that simply replacing bulbs is
not an option. You will need to research MH lighting and determine
what is suitable for your tank. Considerations include the
dimensions of your tank, what livestock you currently have and what
you would like to add, hardware aesthetics (using a canopy vs.
pendants vs. fixtures). Also, you will need to determine what MH
bulb(s) you want to use. My friend, you have a lot of reading! The
good news is that WWM has a lot of information to offer.>> If
they don't make a metal halide bulb how do you suggest I add
one (I have enclosed a photo of my tank). Would adding a halide
light be too much for my corals?<<After determining what MH
fixture, bulbs, etc. you are going to use, please search WWM on
"acclimating corals to MH lighting" and read through the
FAQs. Good luck - Ted>> |
Re: Clams and Upgrading PC Lighting
8/11/05 Hello Crew, <<Hello again Ethan. Ted here once
again>> Thanks again for the response. <<You're
welcome>> I am going to add a metal halide light to my
system. I have 120g with 130W actinic and 130 Daylight, would
adding 175W of Metal halide be too much? Or do I replace my current
lights? <<If your 120g tank is the standard dimensions of
48x24x24, then the 175W MH lighting will work fine.>> Thank
you.
Dr. E
<<Cheers - Ted>> |
Re: Clams and Upgrading PC Lighting
8/12/05 Sorry just to be clear is that 175MH + my current
lights or the MH alone?<<Sorry for the confusion. The current
lighting (130w PC actinic and 130w PC daylight) together with the
new lighting (175w MH) will work fine.>> Ethan
<<Cheers - Ted>> |
|
Tridacnid Lighting 9/24/05 Hello
everyone, <Hello Tyler, Adam J with you.> I currently have a 135
gallon reef with mostly LPS, Mushrooms & Zoanthids. My tank has 420
watts of VHO lighting. I am planning to upgrade to 760 watts
of VHO lighting. Is there any type of clam I could keep with
this setup? < A few actually, the two larger clams in the Tridacnid
family (T. squamosa and T. derasa) should be fine in your set-up as
they are the most tolerant as far as lighting (Compared to their
smaller cousins T. crocea and T. maxima). Just make sure to keep Calc.
Levels high (350+). Another thing to keep in mind with these clams is
their sizes. T. squamosa tops out at around 12' with T. derasa at
around 24'. See here for more detail http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm . Hippopus
hippopus would be a good choice too, requirements are about the same
but I find the Tridacnids to be more eye catching.>
Thanks. Tyler <Glad to have helped. Adam
J.>
Re: Tridacnid Lighting round 2 9/24/05
Wow, that was a fast response. Could I keep a Crocea if it was in the
upper part of the tank? <I would rather you try a Squamosa or a
Derasa first (especially if you have never kept Tridacnids
before). The T. crocea is in my experience the most
demanding Tridacnid as far as lightning goes and the most finicky as
far as water quality goes. Some clam enthusiasts will only
recommend keeping these critters under Metal Halide lighting, I
won't go that far but I will say I have seen the best success with
these under MH. Many of the Croceas sold as 'ULTRA'
may not hold their color under the intensity of VHO, if you wish to try
it, is to place the clam in the upper 1/3 of the tank and monitor it
for signs of bleaching, browning and gaping. If you see
these symptoms its care is lacking in some area.> Is 760 watts
overkill? <Depends on what type of light and targeted specimens (not
enough for some too much for others), but for what your keeping this
wattage of VHO should be sufficient and then some.> Tyler <Adam
J.> T. crocea Lighting and Placement 11/30/05 Hi,
<Hi Dustin.> I have read though most of your articles and learned
a ton of information for when I set up my next tank, but in the
meantime, I have a few questions that I could not find answers to.
<Ok.> I would like to purchase a T. Crocea Clam
(~1-2'), <I would go for one in the 2+ range maybe even a
little larger.> and have a question about the lighting. I currently
have a 40g tank, that is 36'x18' x 12' deep, with a 175w
14000k MH light 5' from the surface of the water, along with 3 --
24w 6500k mini-PC's, and a 65w 50/50 ( ½ 10000K,
½ Actinic) PC. The MH is in the back-right side of the tank,
the 3 mini-PCs are in the back-left side, and the PC is along the front
of the tank. I leave the MH and mini-PCs on for 11 hours a day, and the
PC on for 15.5 hours a day. I currently have 2 hammer frags under the
MH and 4 candy coral frags under the mini-PCs. The hammers open up more
than they did at my LFS, and the candy coral seems to be doing OK,
although the heads aren't opening as much. <I don't think
the lights or to blame for that, the PC's are efficient enough for
this specimen, maybe water flow?> My questions are: 1) Is 14000k MH
okay for a T. Crocea clam, or should I buy a 10000k replacement bulb?
<I would rather see 10,000K for this specimen.> 2) Where would
the best placement for this clam be (which area of the tank, and at
what elevation)? I would be inclined to say at mid-depth under the MH,
but I hear they need a more full spectrum (mixture of my bulbs). <I
would place it in the rockwork, upper ½ of the tank as close
to the MH bulb as possible. T. Crocea is the most light demanding of
Tridacnids. Also as far as spectrum, most animals hosting zooxanthellae
prefer Kelvin ratings of 6,500K to 10,000K. Actinics and bulbs in the
15,000K to 20,000K are mainly for aesthetics.> 3) Is my MH lights
left on too long (11 hr/day) for this clam? (I read here that some
people leave theirs on for 6-8 hours per day) <11 hours is a bit
long, I won't say that it will hurt the clam but it is
unnecessary.> <<Where did these clams evolve? The
equatorial tropics. Anyone know what the photoperiod of
equatorial regions is? 12 hours of light, 12 of dark. The
goal is to mimic natural conditions. Marina>><Mmm,
gets "dark" much quicker underwater than above... due to
angles of refraction, and reflection. RMF> 4) What lighting is best
for the candy coral? I have read that they do not like direct MH
lighting, so I placed them under the mini-PCs, IYO, what is best?
<There placement as far as lighting needs appears fine.> Thanks,
and keep up the good work <You are welcome and thank you.> Dustin
<Adam J.>
Lighting Upgrade for Tridacnids
12/12/05 Hi, <Hello.> Thanks for having this website, it has
increased my knowledge of how to properly take care of my
tank. <Thank you, I'm glad we have helped.> I
just wanted to ask you for a recommendation/suggestion as to this
question. <Sure.> I currently have some Shrooms, hammer coral,
frogspawn, xenia, and a Monti cap in my tank which is approx. 15inches
deep. My question is I currently have A 4X65 (260 WATTS) PC
and want to get one crocea clam? <Do you? This clam is
the most light loving and sensitive of the Tridacnids so I would
research thoroughly, WWM is a good place to start, and the book Reef
Invertebrates has a great clam chapter, Giant Clams by Daniel Knop is
another great book.> Can I get rid of the PC's altogether and
just get two (2) MH pendants. <Yes that would be a great upgrade to
keep this clam.> Also, what bulb should I use? My tank is 4 feet in
length. <If it were me I would use x2, 250 watt HQI pendants (PFO
brand with the electronic ballast) and 10,000K bulbs. That would give
you plenty of light.> Thanks again, <No problem.> Jose Nunez
<Adam J.>
Crocea Lighting 1/9/08 Hello, First off,
thank you for answering mine and the thousands of other emails you must
get. <Hello, it is a collaborative effort, we do answer quite a few
queries.> I have a 125 gallon tank with an attached 30 gallon
refugium & 20 gallon sump. One half of the tank I keep open
swimming space and the other half I have live rock. Currently I have
two 72 in blue actinic bulbs powered by an Ice Cap 660 ballast. I also
have a 36 in PC 10k bulb over the LR. I received a Crocea clam recently
and would like to upgrade the PC lighting to MH. <Good idea.> The
tank is 18 inches deep, but I plan to keep the clam about 6 to 8 inches
from the surface after acclimation to the new lights. Would you
recommend 175 or 250 watts for this distance? <The 175 will work
fine at this distance for the clam.> Also, what type of corals would
you recommend keeping with the clam? <This depends greatly on your
taste in corals! Anemones are not a good idea. With other corals just
be sure to give the clam its space, and that your corals do not shade
the clam. Certain corals lend themselves to be kept with clams, such as
Acroporas, simply because they have similar needs in tank conditions
(high lighting and flow needs). Thank you <Welcome, Scott
V.>
Re: New Setup, Clams 1/11/08 Chris,
<Hello> Thanks for you help. <Welcome> Would the T5 system
allow me to grow giant clams as well? <Depends> If I were to go
with MH, would 3x175W be enough or should I go to 3x250W configuration?
And finally, for a watt-to-watt comparison, are the T5HO lights more
cost effective than MH? Thank you very much. Cheers, John <All I
know about clams I got from here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/Tridacna/GotTridacna.htm
and the related FAQs , this article should help with the lighting
choices and livestock placement.> <Chris>
Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam
Tank (But Not 'Really' A Biotope'¦ Bummer)
-- 01/16/08 Hello, <<Hiya Barb!>> I am in
pre-setup stages for a 65g (36 x 18 x 24deep, with a brace in the
center) biotope shallow reef clam tank. <<Ahh 'I
love it when aquarists use the 'B' word! Can/will make
'life' so much easier in the long term>> I am
planning on a DSB of approximately 4'-5". <<Very
good 'and I suggest sugar-fine aragonite for
this>> I have had lots of different opinions on lighting.
<No doubt, and you're about to get another>> In my
tank I would like a variety of clams, and some stony corals; LPS
and SPS placed mid to high. <<Mmm, well'¦so much
for the biotope'¦>> There are some softies I'd
like to try on the bottom, <<So, what you really want is a
'reef garden' style of tank>> and eventually some
clowns paired with a BTA (this is not certain as I know my tank
is small and may be cruel for an anemone). <<Yikes!
Indeed'¦and cruel as well to the sessile denizens of
this tank if this motile creature decides to go for a
stroll>> I am not planning on many fish; a pair of clowns,
some pajama cardinals, possibly some Anthias, and down the road
if tank conditions mature as hoped, a dragonet and possibly a
blue spot Jawfish. <<Well Barb, I think you and I have
different ideas of what 'not many fish' constitutes for
this tank. While this stock list is not excessive (depending on
final numbers of Cardinals and Anthiines), it certainly isn't
a 'light' load for this tank>> Naturally, this is
all up for discussion and will probably change as time goes by!
:) <<Ah good'¦let's do bandy back and forth
before anything becomes 'permanent'>> I will have
lots of flow, and a 50g sump with a remote 20g-long refugium.
<<All 'pluses' here. You will also need a good
quality skimmer, and some way to provide chemical filtration
(canister filter or media reactor of some kind). And while
we're talking chemical filtration'¦while
'researching/reading-up on' the other aspects of reef
keeping, do a keyword search on our site and read-up on
'Allelopathy'>> My canopy is 9" high, but the
interior has a shelf where the canopy is to be placed on the
tank, so the inside height for lighting is 6". <<Hmm,
I'm a fan of metal halide for most all marine
systems'¦but this canopy sounds too limiting/would
position the lights too close to the water I think. I think
overheating will be an issue'¦and water splashes could
easily 'do in' the bulbs or if present, constantly
coat/obscure the shields (aside from outright failure, broken
bulbs can also pose shock or fire hazards'¦and a broken
bulb that is still burning can seriously damage livestock from
excessive UV)>> I am happy to drill the top and sides and
install fans for cooling, and the back of the canopy is open so
other fans could be placed there if necessary. <<Even
so'¦I think you're best going with T5 lighting if
you stick with this canopy>> I live in NE Ohio; hot in
summer and COLD (Brrrr) in winter. <<Ah yes, luckily winters
are shorter and more temperate here in South Carolina>> My
house is kept cool in both summer and winter; pretty much 72-73
year round. <<I see'¦but doesn't change my
opinion re halides in this canopy'¦still too close to
the water, in my 'opinion'>> Here are some lighting
suggestions I've received from other aquarists and some
lighting vendors: 1. 6x39w T5 HO; brand suggested Sunlight Tek
retrofit kit, or fixture, with an assortment of blue to white
bulbs. <<The T5s are a viable option, though since you wish
to keep clams and SPS (Acroporids I assume), I would go with 8 of
the 39w lamps'¦six 10,000K and two Actinic>> 2.
Current Outer Orbit 2x250 10k HQI, 4x39w T5 HO, 9 blue/9white
lunar lights <<Too much wattage on the halides>> 3.
Current Outer Orbit 2x150 10k, HQI, 4x39w T5 HO, same lunar
lights <<This would be my first choice of any listed thus
far'¦though I would be inclined to search out a
different brand>> 4. Solaris Galileo LED fixture. Not sure
how these are being received yet. <<The systems seem
promising and expectations are high'¦ Though currently,
you'll about have to get a second mortgage to finance one
more than a couple feet in length>> Company claims that the
things I would like to have will do "great" under the
LED's. <<I have heard these clams as
well'¦have even spoken to folks doing some testing re. I
do like the functionality/adaptability/flexibility of the
units'¦I'm just not convinced yet that what is
currently offered can go 'toe-to-toe' with metal halide
lighting. Still, if you can afford/want to go with one of these
units it will likely suffice. Just do be aware; any one lighting
solution is not going to be the 'best' solution in a
'reef garden' such as you are planning>> Pricey,
too, but again company claims the fixture pays for itself in
relatively short time. <<Mmm, will still be measured in
'years'>> I understand the heat involved with MH so
I'm not sure my canopy is high enough for this.
<<Agreed'¦and can cause more than heat issues, as
explained>> I don't want to damage the life in my tank,
my canopy, or my electric bill (not too much anyway :) ). I also
like the option of 24hr lighting in one fixture. <<Are we
still talking about the LED fixture?>> The T5 lighting
option does not leave much room in the canopy to add lunar
lighting, as the canopy is hinged halfway through the top...there
is 10" available space in front of the hinges, and 10"
behind the hinges. <<Should be plenty'¦ The T5s
can be mounted individually with individual
reflectors'¦thus allowing you to use the full measure of
the canopy lid>> Please offer opinions and suggestions on
these different options, and please be happy to add other
suggestions as well! <<Have done so [grin]>> Thank
you for your time! Barb M. <<Feel free to write back for
further clarification/discussion on any of these issues. Regards,
Eric Russell>>
Re: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But
Not 'Really' A Biotope'¦ Bummer) -- 01/18/08
<<Hi Barb'¦FYI- I've taken the excerpts of my
responses you included from our previous exchange and placed them
between double asterisks (**)>> **Ahh 'I love it
when aquarists use the 'B' word! Can/will make
'life' so much easier in the long term** This is what I
thought! <<Yes, but you've strayed to the dark side
[grin]. Not that reef-garden tanks can't be
kept'¦the majority of hobbyists do'¦but putting
some thought toward choosing a particular 'niche' on the
reef to replicate, and limiting livestock selections re can pay
big dividends in the long-term>> ** Very good 'and
I suggest sugar-fine aragonite for this** Yep! Planned for.
<Excellent> ** No doubt, and you're about to get
another** That's why I wrote! :) <<Hope you found it
useful>> **Mmm, well'¦so much for the
biotope'¦** I'll say the dreaded phrase; "from
what I've read". I read about this style of tank in John
Tullock's Natural Reef Aquariums; Simplified Approaches to
Creating Living Microcosms. <<Hmm, my reference/hobby books
are currently packed-up (in the middle of renovations)>>
But, as I've just opened the book I see I've mis-stated
myself! Oh, geez. <<Oh?>> Well, here goes: It appears
I have mixed up my purposes (but you knew that! lol)... this
approach is called in the book "An Inshore Aquarium for
Clown-fish". <<I still gotta say, I just don't
think mixing corals/clams with an anemone is good practice unless
the tank is very large (hundreds of gallons) and the other
invertebrate life well established (hardened), and the anemone is
suitably isolated/separated from the sessile
animals'¦and even then, best left to experienced
hobbyists. If you really want to have that 'symbiotic'
experience'¦I recommend you study up on the species of
anemone you want to keep (some are easier/better suited to
captive life than others) and set up a tank just for
this'¦along with a pair of the proper species of
Clownfish>> I think with all the studying I'm doing my
brain has become very confused. <<Perhaps a quiet moment
with a glass of wine is in order'¦>> Here's
what he suggests. Let's see if you agree with the approach:
"for a smaller system" he suggests a pairing of
tank-raised Amphiprion clarkii clownfish and a Macrodactyla
doreensis. <<Good choices'¦though there are other
suitable; and in my opinion more attractive, Clownfishes that can
be kept with this anemone>> Other fish he recommends:
Mandarin fish- Synchiropus splendidus or Synchiropus picturatus
(added after the tank is very mature), <<I think your tank
is too small for these very specialized feeders,
ever'¦and they are also likely to become 'anemone
food'>> Six or Four Line Wrasse, <<Do be cautious
here, these can become quite the little terror'¦
Definitely the 'last' to be added in the stocking
order>> Anthias, Cardinals, Damsels, grazing Tangs
(obviously I would not have all these fish, but choose from the
list). <<Indeed'¦ But this tank is too small for a
Tang as well>> Sabellid worms, Giant clams such as Tridacna
squamosa, T. gigas, T. crocea, Hippopus hippopus. SPS corals,
with careful placement to avoid interaction with the anemone.
<<Mmmm'¦>> No softies to mess with the
anemone, <<Wise>> of which there would be one. What
do you think? <<Have stated my opinions [grin]. And I still
think the SPS and a clam or two would make for a great
display'¦>> **Well Barb, I think you and I have
different ideas of what 'not many fish' constitutes for
this tank. While this stock list is not excessive (depending on
final numbers of Cardinals and Anthiines), it certainly isn't
a 'light' load for this tank** I'm still learning!
And, I'm teachable! << Very good, Grasshopper (imagine
my best Chinese accent here). Do keep reading/researching your
choices re environmental requirements, compatibility, et
al'¦ And if/when necessary'¦you know where to
find me>> **Ah good'¦let's do bandy back and
forth before anything becomes 'permanent' ** Yes,
definitely, lets! <<Cool>> **All 'pluses'
here. You will also need a good quality skimmer, and some way to
provide chemical filtration (canister filter or media reactor of
some kind). And while we're talking chemical
filtration'¦while 'researching/reading-up on'
the other aspects of reef keeping, do a keyword search on our
site and read-up on 'Allelopathy' ** I have an ASM G2
skimmer with a Sedra 5000 pump. How's that? <<Should do
nicely>> I will read up on Allelopathy, which I believe has
to do with chemical warfare between corals in tanks?
<<Indeed, but more than just corals'¦ Algae,
sponges, many types of organisms can/will employ chemical means
of defense>> The chemical filtration will help with
allelopathy, I presume? <<And more'¦>>
**Hmm, I'm a fan of metal halide for most all marine
systems'¦but this canopy sounds too limiting/would
position the lights too close to the water I think. I think
overheating will be an issue'¦and water splashes could
easily 'do in' the bulbs or if present, constantly
coat/obscure the shields (aside from outright failure, broken
bulbs can also pose shock or fire hazards'¦and a broken
bulb that is still burning can seriously damage livestock from
excessive UV) ** The rests for the canopy could be lowered about
1-1/2in, would that make a difference? <<...? Wouldn't
this just place the bulbs even closer to the surface of the
water? Or perhaps I have misunderstood>> Or, I could call
the LFS and see if they will let me return it for a store credit.
<<This would be my first choice>> **Even
so'¦I think you're best going with T5 lighting if
you stick with this canopy** Okay. I think I may be inclined to
return it or sell it so I can get the most effective lighting for
the tank. **Ah yes, luckily winters are shorter and more
temperate here in South Carolina** My son lives in NC on Topsail
Island. His winters are nice, too! <<Likely a bit cooler
this weekend!>> **The T5s are a viable option, though since
you wish to keep clams and SPS (Acroporids I assume), I would go
with 8 of the 39w lamps'¦six 10,000K and two Actinic**
Okay, gotcha! **Too much wattage on the halides** That's what
I figured when this was suggested! 'X'ed off the list.
**This would be my first choice of any listed thus
far'¦though I would be inclined to search out a
different brand** Can you recommend any brands? <<Hmm, I
generally 'build my own' from DIY components. I suggest
you visit the reef forums (ReefCentral.com/Reefs.org) and query
folks there re a quality fixture>> This configuration would
be good, though, for the "new" biotope I outlined
above? <<Yes>> ** Mmm, will still be measured in
'years' ** This is what I figured, and I am NOT
considering it. **Agreed'¦and can cause more than heat
issues, as explained** Yes, I understand. <<Ah good>>
**Are we still talking about the LED fixture? ** No, the Current
USA 2x150 fixture I mentioned above has 24 hour lighting... it
was attractive to me for that reason. <<I see>>
**Should be plenty'¦ The T5s can be mounted individually
with individual reflectors'¦thus allowing you to use the
full measure of the canopy lid** Okay, I will look into
measurement information this evening. **Have done so [grin]**
Yes, you have, Thank you! <<A pleasure>> **Feel free
to write back for further clarification/discussion on any of
these issues. Regards, Eric Russell** And, this is my reply...
Thank you very much, Eric! Barb M. <<Be chatting!
EricR>>
R2: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam
Tank (But Not 'Really' A Biotope'¦Bummer) --
01/19/08 <<Hi Barb!'¦just like the
last'¦excerpts of my responses you included from our
previous exchange placed between double asterisks (**) for
clarity (I hope)>> **Yes, but you've strayed to the
dark side [grin]. Not that reef-garden tanks can't be
kept'¦the majority of hobbyists do'¦but putting
some thought toward choosing a particular 'niche' on the
reef to replicate, and limiting livestock selections re can pay
big dividends in the long-term** I feel I've been pulled back
to The Light. <<Ah! A convert'¦>> I do want
to do the safest thing for the living beings under my care
(insert Grasshopper voice here) :) <<Hee-hee! You/your
livestock will be better for it in the long term>>
**Perhaps a quiet moment with a glass of wine is in
order'¦** A nice Merlot? <<A fine
choice'¦though I've become partial to the
fuller-bodied, woody flavor of a good Shiraz>> **Good
choices'¦though there are other suitable; and in my
opinion more attractive, Clownfishes that can be kept with this
anemone** Please do tell what these other Clownfishes are.
<<Listed here, along with a good article on Macrodactyla
doreensis'¦
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm >> **Do be
cautious here, these can become quite the little
terror'¦ Definitely the 'last' to be added in
the stocking order** I understand that Wrasses can be
troublesome. <<Some species more than others, yes>> I
did read they can be helpful in keeping nasties from bothering
clams. Is this accurate? <<It is>> Is there another
suitable fish that could take the place of said Wrasse?
<<It is my opinion that a suitably-sized Halichoeres
species would be a better selection for your tank than
'any' of the Pseudocheilinus species. A couple of my
faves are H. ornatissimus and H. chrysus'¦ Have a look
here'¦ http://www.wetwebmedia.com/halichoeresbestart.htm
>> **Indeed'¦ But this tank is too small for a
Tang as well** Yep, I know that about Tangs; they need way more
swimming room than this tank can provide. Wasn't considering.
<<Encouraging to know>> **Mmmm'¦** A murmur
of agreement, or disagreement? <<Of concern'¦re
the inclusion/addition of the anemone>> **Wise** Told you I
was teachable! <<Ah, putty in my hands [grin]. But
seriously, as much as I like my own opinions, do seek out
information from other sources as well, and use your own good
judgment to make your decisions>> **Have stated my opinions
[grin]. And I still think the SPS and a clam or two would make
for a great display'¦** I agree, and it sure makes it
more simple to know what my goal is. <<And more simple to
research>> I know I will need to wait probably a year (if
the tank matures correctly) to actually bring an anemone home.
I've read differing opinions; whether to add the clowns to
the tank ahead of the anemone, or vice-versa. What would you
recommend, and why? <<If you do this (add an anemone), I
recommend allowing the Cnidarian to become acclimated/hardened
before introducing the clowns as they can be pretty rough on a
newly acquired, and therefore stressed, anemone>> Once I
have cured my LR and I am ready for a CUC, what makeup of crew
would you recommend for my little niche of clownfish land? Are
there things you can recommend, or suggest things to stay away
from? <<Indeed'¦ Do read-up on our site re
'cleanup crews''¦but when utilizing a DSB I am
partial to the small burrowing and detritus feeding snails such
as Cerith and Nassarius species. The smaller Brittle and Serpent
stars are very good detritivores, but can become hazardous to
smaller fishes if/when they become large'¦and do avoid
the Green Brittle Star altogether (genus Ophiarachna). Many folks
also employ supposedly reef-safe crabs ('hermit' or
otherwise), but I don't, as I feel they are 'too'
opportunistic in their feeding habits>> **Very good,
Grasshopper (imagine my best Chinese accent here). Do keep
reading/researching your choices re environmental requirements,
compatibility, et al'¦ And if/when
necessary'¦you know where to find me** Allelopathy is on
the study menu for the weekend. <<Excellent my
friend>> **And more'¦** Which I'll learn about
this weekend... probably be back with some questions.
<<Looking forward to it>> **...? Wouldn't this
just place the bulbs even closer to the surface of the water? Or
perhaps I have misunderstood** If I lower the ledges in the
canopy, it will ride higher on the tank'¦giving about
7-1/2" for the lights instead of 6". <<Ah, I see
now'¦still marginal for halides I think>> **This
would be my first choice** They <<LFS>> will take the
canopy back for store credit. However, I've decided to go
with T5 lighting retrofits as you suggested to use with the
canopy. <<Okay'¦do fit 'as many' bulbs as
you can. And keep the addition of bulbs in the short-wave
(Actinic) spectrum to the very minimum>> Thanks once again,
Eric, for your guidance (said in my best Grasshopper voice) :)
Barb M. <<LOL! Quite welcome, Barb! Cheers, Eric
Russell>>
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