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FAQs about Giant Clam Lighting Design, Fixtures
Related Articles:
Got Tridacna? A beginner's guide to keeping Tridacnid clams
by Laurie Smith,
Example Chapter from NMA Reef Invertebrates book, on Giant Clams,
Tridacnids,
A Brief Guide to the Selection and Placement of Tridacnid Clams
by Barry Neigut,
Bivalves, Mollusks,
Lighting Marine Invertebrates,
Related FAQs: Tridacnid Lighting 1,
Tridacnid Lighting 2, & FAQs on Tridacnid Lighting:
Science/Application, Lamps/Bulbs,
Duration, Quality and Intensity,
Trouble/Fixing,
Makes/Models/Manufacturers, &
Tridacnid Identification, Tridacnid
Selection, Tridacnid Compatibility,
Tridacnid Systems, Tridacnid
Placement, Tridacnid Feeding,
Tridacnid Disease, Tridacnid
Reproduction, Tridacnids 1,
Tridacnids 2, Tridacnids 3,
Tridacnids 4, Tridacnid Clam Business, Bivalves,
Bivalves 2,
Lighting Marine Invertebrates, |
Mmm, choices depend on species used, position, depth of tank, "other
factors".... |
Tridacnid sys./lighting 9/12/09
<Hi Eddie, James replying for Mike who will be out a few weeks.>
Well would you consider a clam for being light hungry. I just want to
make sure that the 150watt would be able to penetrate to the bottom
where I would place a clam(not sure yet on which one). Thanks for
helping me. I was really surprised at how fast you replied considering
the amount of emails you probably get.
<The T. Maxima, and crocea are considered light loving clams, twin 150
watt HQI lamps in your 72 gallon bowfront should be just fine. James
(Salty Dog)>
Blue Clams And Lighting/Clam Lighting 8/18/09
I've a 50 gallon. acrylic LPS Reef setup with 192 watts of PC - 1/96
watt dual daylight/ 460nm actinic and 1/96 watt actinic 460/420 nm
lighting. Do I really need metal halides or will my lighting do? Also,
the 50/50 is timed for 8 hours and the actinic for 10 hrs a day. If
halides are required would a small Nano Viper 150 watt metal halide
clamp-on, at one edge of the tank, work? And if so, how should I time my
new PC/Halide setup?
<Both the Tridacna maxima and crocea require high light levels to
survive, and with that being said, I would recommend using the 150 watt
halide clamp-on with your current lighting photoperiod. Derasa,
squamosa, and gigas clams are much less light needy and can be
successfully kept in tanks 12-14 inches in depth under power compact/T5
lighting.>
Best wishes,
<Regards. James (Salty Dog)>
R. Gene Hayden
Re Blue Clams And Lighting/Clam Lighting 8/18/09
Thanks James;)
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Best wishes,
R. Gene Hayden
Clams I have a few questions first off I was wondering if there
are any butterfly fish that a reef safe? Second I wanted to know what
kind of lighting is needed to keep clams alive? >> IMO yes... some
of this family (Chaetodontidae) are largely zooplanktivorous (though, of
course there are gradations to almost absolute coral polyp feeders).
Some examples: The longnose butterflyfishes of the genus Forcipiger...
Chelmons, Chelmonops species, the Bannerfish genus members: Heniochus,
the Raccoon butterflyfishes, Chaetodon lunula and C. fasciatus... There
are others, and the family, it's uses detailed in articles stored at
www.wetwebmedia.com Clams? As in giant clams (family Tridacnidae)
require bright/intense, full-spectrum lighting to optimize their growth
and color... most folks use Very High Output Fluorescents on the low end
to Compact Fluorescents and Metal Halides on the high... depending on
tank depth, desired effects. Bob Fenner Crocea Clam
lighting 3/15/03 I would like to buy a Crocea Clam and would like
to know how close to the lights it would need to be. Its a 55 Gallon
tank 20 inches deep with 4 36inch VHO's 2 Super Actinic URI 1
Actinic White URI 1 Aquasun URI <within the top 12" of the water
surface will be fine, my friend. Have you read the sample chapter on
Tridacnids from our new book, by the way? Click on the chapter link on
this page:
http://wetwebfotos.com/store/nma-ri.html best regards, Anthony>
Clam Lighting How many hours per day of high intensity lighting
does a 2-3 inch maxima clam need if it is placed in a 20 inch deep tank
with 2-175W metal halide bulbs suspended 12 inches above the surface of
the water? <<Hi Jacqueline, Craig answering while the
WWM crew is attending MACNA. Clams are light hungry and require the
highest intensity lighting. Even with 175 watt MH's I would still place
this clam close to the top of the tank. The very minimum would be six
hours a day with the best of light but I would about double that to ten
to twelve hours for your clam to grow and thrive. I personally use 12
hours. Small clams do well placed in a removable container so they
can be target fed with phytoplankton. Feeding is actually more
important for small clams than light at this stage, although they need
the best of both to thrive. Cheers, Craig>> Clam
lighting for a 75 gallon Hello there, I have a 75 gallon tank
with two of the 48 inch Aqualights, which total 520 watts of light.
Split it would be 4 10,000k bulbs and 4 actinics, which are 65 watts
each. Anyway, would this be enough light for 1 or 2 clams if kept in
about the middle of the tank or closer to the top? Jim >>Wow,
Jim! First, have you gone through this section on our site?-->
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm Here is some more
information specific to lighting questions-->
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm >>Part of the issue
is species of clam, for instance Tridacna derasa and Hippopus can do
well with lower lighting. I'll assume that you would like to know which
species you can keep with the lighting you have available for them, and
I see no reason why you couldn't keep either of these species. If you
wanted to get something like T. crocea, then I would be sure to place it
higher up. >>>>Ok guys, I'd like to bump this to someone who REALLY
knows their stuff on the clams. I've spent about an hour reading
through old FAQ's and as many articles that appear to be related, but I
feel I can't give a very complete answer regarding which species will do
well with his lighting, or which might be better, as I've not had
experience with every species. Also, because of this lack of
experience, I can't tell him which species *can* be placed up on
rockwork, and which others will do better on the tank bottom. Nor can I
advise him on specific bulbs, and I don't want bad information to slip
by or to have left something important out. Thanks!<<<< Maxima
Clam light 4/22/03 I've read through the FAQ's and the link to
the chapter in your new book, but I am still unsure as to whether or not
I can successfully keep a T. maxima. <OK> I have a 75 gallon tank
and run two separate PC fixtures and a twin tube fluorescent
fixture. One PC fixture has two 50/50, 65 watt bulbs (130 total) and
the other has two 50/50, 55 watt (110 total) bulbs. These two fixtures
are at the front of the tank. The dual tube fluorescent fixture sits at
the back of the tank and has a 10,000k and an actinic bulb that amount
to 70 total watts. Do you think I could keep a maxima if I place it
on a rock about 6 inches under the lights at the front of the tank
(under the pc's). <yes... easily> I believe I have the perfect
spot for one, that is, if the lighting is adequate... <agreed> Oh
one more thing... will it be bothered if I place it next to Xenias?
<not likely at all... Xenia is quite passive> Thanks <kindly,
Anthony> Clam lighting recommendations Thanks now for my
lighting what would you recommend for my 24" cube, I would like to keep
a clam or two. I am looking at MH & PC lighting. Thank Dave <Hi Dave,
For clams and high light demanding inhabitants, a 175 watt MH (or 250
watts) perhaps with two VHO or PC actinic bulbs to supplement the blue
spectrum would be ideal. I would favor the 250 watt for the depth and
they are available in a "radium" which may do away with the need for
actinic lighting. The color rendition is a personal choice, you may
want to look at clams under different types of lighting to "see" the
difference. The blue light will definitely help "fire" the colors of
clams and corals. For PC's try to find "true" actinic blue bulbs. I
prefer VHO myself, with Ice Cap ballasts very flexible. (Can drive
PC/NO/HO/VHO). Have Fun! Craig> Maxima clam lighting - 9/3/03
Greetings WWM Crew! <Hello Kev. Paul here to help> Thanks for your
dedication, expertise, and this website. <Yes, indeed. Thank you
Bob!> It is an invaluable resource. <Agreed and always much improving
thanks to your query!> I would like to add small Maxima clam to my 10
gal reef, but fear my current lighting is insufficient. It is a 28W,
10,000K 50/50 that stands on legs such that the bottom of the light
fixture is 2.5" from the water surface. The spot I would like to place
the clam is about 2" below the water surface and there is no lid on the
aquarium. <Hmmmmm. I think this is grossly insufficient.> Is this
enough light? <Unfortunately this is unsuitable for any clam. This is
quite a small tank for such an inhabitant (it can be done though), but
more light is definitely needed before adding such a beautiful animal.
Lower light clams are more along the lines of the Squamosa clams but
again there just isn't enough light here. Give a call to Barry at
www.clamsdirect.com. He is super knowledgeable and offers great advice
on what you will need to keep clams o plenty! -P> Best Regards,
Kevin. Clams under PCs? 9/1/03 I think this one is for
Anthony or Bob. I was reading the Reef Invertebrates book and there was
a section that stated you could keep certain clams under PCs. <you
can keep even the most demanding SPS corals and clams under standard
fluorescent lighting as long as the bulbs are properly close to the
water (no further than 3" off surface) and the invertebrates are kept
shallow enough (less than 10" of water)> My tank is a 125 gallon
(72x18x20), actually 112, but sold to me as a 125 :-( Anyway, I'm in
the process of upgrading everything on my tank. I'm adding a
sump/refugium, live rock, more lighting. I currently have 2 96W
Smartlites, but am going to add two more 96W fixtures. I was planning
on having 2 10,000K and 2 Actinics. Would these be enough to keep
clams? <indeed... no worries. Do keep your most demanding creatures
like clams with the top 16" of the surface under PC.s> Thanks, and I
love the book. I just purchased the BOCP. <thanks kindly... will
have it posted promptly tomorrow! Anthony> Clam Lighting
Questions Dear WWM crew, I hate to make a nuisance of myself,
but I have a couple more questions (several of them are probably stupid,
but, hey, I won't know if I don't ask, right?) <Truly, the only
stupid question is the one not asked! Especially if lack of asking
kills animals.> I went back to the store, and the Crocea was gone
(big surprise) but they now have a beautiful purple maxima for the same
price. I was talking about getting it when a friend and fellow reef
keeper jumped down my throat for dooming a clam to certain death by
trying to keep it under VHO's when all clams MUST have MH. <Tell your
friend to settle down and “don’t believe the hype!”> He even pulled a
reef-keeping handbook off the store shelf at random (hardly the most
responsible method, I know) and showed me that it says they require
MH. Even your own FAQ's seem to mention MH a lot. But then other
articles say they can be kept under normal fluorescents! I know it has
a lot to do with depth and distance between bulb and water, but aren't
there some sort of guidelines? Can a med-large purple maxima be kept
under VHO's? <MH is certainly recommended. As a general rule, the
more light they get, the better clams do, however, as long as you exceed
their minimum requirements, they will do fine. Growth may be a bit
slower, but they will do fine. In your tank, under 3xVHO's, I would
certainly keep a clam in the upper 8-12 inches.> In the same vein, I
also looked at (and ended up purchasing) the most beautiful
Frogspawn/Octobubble I have ever seen. It had been there for a month,
under 3x4' VHO's, and was doing great. I also know your website says
these corals need moderate light and current, and I would have thought
my system about perfect, but again, my friend and his handbook both
insist they require bright MH light and very brisk current. <The
level of reef keeping has been raised since most current available
references were published. What was considered brisk current then,
would be moderate at best now. Your system sounds quite ideal for
Euphyllias.> I must admit that I've not had luck with these before,
but after reading your website, I was thinking it had more to do with
the large numbers of soft corals (many of which I have removed to their
own tank), and not inadequate light. I placed the Frogspawn at the
opposite end of the tank from the overflow/return, about halfway
down. It gets good indirect flow but no strong direct current. Does
that seem reasonable? <Sounds very reasonable. Overly strong current
will prevent the coral from opening, and you certainly have plenty of
light. Euphyllias are quite sensitive to water quality in general, and
the presence of soft corals in particular. Water changes and carbon
will help ameliorate these effects.> One thing I would find extremely
helpful is if your descriptions of each coral/clam/animal said something
about light/current/placement requirements. I know that I read something
about different clams having preferences between rocks and sand in the
FAQ's somewhere, but now I can't find it, and the species descriptions
don't say. Same for corals. <Any clam or coral can be kept on the
sand as long as it can’t bury itself. As a rule, Crocea, maxima and
Squamosa clams are rock dwellers, but all can be kept on the sand as
long as they get enough light.> Okay, I am sorry for the length, but
I have two last questions: <No worries! Ask away.> In your
descriptions of placing VHO tubes 3-6 inches above the water, I am
assuming this is without a glass canopy in between? I still had one on
my tank until recently. I grew up with them and never really thought
about removing it until I was thinking seriously about lighting.
<Give up the glass! Glass covers really do attenuate the light a lot,
particularly if they aren’t very clean.> Second, does my colt coral
pose a major chemical warfare problem, or is that mostly a leather coral
issue? Can I keep just a few green star polyps and/or frilly mushrooms
in my reef tank without doing any harm, if I thin them regularly?
<All softies will produce allelopathic chemicals. Sinularias (finger
leathers) and mushrooms are among the worst. Your colt and star polyps
are more dangerous in direct physical encounters. When you rule out all
other causes of ill health in a coral and suspect chemical warfare, you
will have to remove the aggressor or the victim. In the mean time, keep
up the water changes and frequently changed small amounts of carbon.>
Thanks again for all the advice and help. Jim <Glad to! Adam>
Clam Lighting Hello <Hey Robert> Thanks for providing a
great web site and valuable advice. <I will pass your thanks along.> I
have a 50 gal reef tank with 4, 36" VHO lights 2 AquaSun and 2 actinics
driven by a icecap 660 ballast. The lights are about 4" above the water
and the water depth is about 15". Is it possible to keep a Tridacna
Crocea or Maxima clam? Will it be ok or slowly die? <In all honesty
Robert I'm inclined to say a Derasa would probably do well under those
lights but it might not be enough for the Crocea or Maxima as they start
to grow.> I am thinking about upgrading my lighting to MH but can't
decide what wattage to go with 150,175 or 250. <If you wish to keep more
clams and more SPS corals then I would suggest the 250 or even a 400
light.> I do have a Montipora Digitata about 8" below the surface that
is thriving under this lighting. <Wonderful. Sounds like a very lovely
tank.> Thanks, Robert Walz <Good luck Robert, It sounds like you are
well on your way. MacL. >
Tridacnid under Power Compacts -
2/24/04 Hi, crew from fish heaven. <Howdy> Can one keep Tridacna
clams under PC lights? without MH. <Some clams can adjust better than
others. Squamosa and Derasa do a bit better than Crocea and Maxima. Be
sure to keep 'em a little higher in the tank once acclimated.
(acclimation and feeding is very important)> I'm thinking of putting
them 10-12" under the PC's. <Check out the Forums at
www.clamsdirect.com. Proprietor Barry Neigut is knowledgeable (one of
the nice guys in the biz) and is extremely helpful. Lots of info to be
had. Oh, and check out our FAQs and articles on clams. ~Paulito> Thanks,
Bernd from Honduras. Clam placement under halides
- 1/27/04 You guys rule! <Thanks> Got a 150W DE MH over a 38
gallon (22+" deep). Got 4-5" of sand. Would it be acceptable to place a
T. maxima or T. crocea on or near the substrate (approx. 17-18" deep)?
<Well, 150 is a little on the low side but I would go for it. Watch the
clam and see how it looks. Maybe slowly move it towards the mid part of
the tank or higher over time. Feel free to drop by
ClamsDirect.com and ask the experts there in their forum or maybe
even call Barry (the owner) and see what he says. Let him know I sent
ya. ~Paul> Or is this too deep for my lighting. <Might be a little
deep. Try it and watch the clam for signs of stress (i.e.. gaping
extended mantle far beyond normal, extreme recession of mantle, not
reacting to movement to name a few.) Good luck. ~Paul> Thanks!
-matt Clams under power compact lighting - 11/17/04 Hi.
<Hello, Sharon> I was wondering if a squamosa clam or any other clams
can be kept under 400 watts of power compact lighting. <Well, based on
your tank depth and size I wonder..... The answer is a bit complicated,
but I would like to say "yes!" if some other points of interests are
addressed and the clam is placed midway to high in the tank. You just
might get away with it on the bottom as well. The tank has to be fully
"aged" and by that I mean it must have been set up for a minimum of
eight months, plenty of coralline algae growth, water chemistry within
the suggested parameters, and have done your research on your particular
species of clam as far as habitat and feeding requirements. It is
important to note that clams do not get 100% of their nutritional needs
from photosynthesis alone. They also need to pull food from the water. A
live phytoplankton might go a long way to help in this endeavor and
there are lots of quality live phytoplankton feeds on the market. I
prefer Reed Mariculture's Phytofeast or DT's Live Phytoplankton. Also be
sure to get your clams from a quality dealer. This is very important in
that you get clams that are properly cared for in the interim holding,
and also are responsible in their selection. I prefer captive bred over
wild clams. As for a purchase place, I prefer Barry Neigut at
www.clamsdirect.com. Period! The guy knows his stuff, extremely
knowledgeable, consults with us here, at WetWebMedia and other sources,
often, has a great selection of captive bred clams (WYSIWYG), good
prices, really a great resource. I don't get paid to state this, this is
just where I have most recently heard lots of good things, seen him at
various reef gatherings, presents at them too! Do your own research and
find your own source and let us know about it.> The tank is a 135 and is
18 inches deep. thanks a lot <Thanks Sharon for asking your question
here at WetWebMedia. We really appreciate your participation. ~Paul>
Collegiate Crewmember Wants a T. maxima - Lighting? + Anthony's
Response Hey Anthony, and\or anyone else willing to chime in: I'm
going to have to downsize to a smaller aquarium when I go to a dorm,
and I'm looking at a "nano" type aquarium with an enclosed hood,
retrofitted with PCs and T5's. I know someone who mods them, and gets
9200Lux @ 1ft depth (about where the clam would be) using PC and T5
lighting. I have a 7" teardrop (gold\purple\maroon) maxima, and I'm
wondering if this will be enough. I'm very wary about not keeping it
under halides - think that this would cut it? If not I'll just go with a
halide pendant, I was just hoping I could get away with a hood to help
prevent beer in the aquarium! :D Thanks, Michael <Put that tank in
front of the window, and add phyto and I think you'll be just fine.
Adam> <Your concern for not keeping it under halides is wholly
unfounded. This clam and a majority of zooxanthellate creatures we see
in the hobby can easily be kept in shallow water under good fluorescent
lighting. No worries. Anthony >
Discrepancy on the Tridacna FAQ page Sat, 19 Mar 2005 On
this particular archive of FAQs:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridaclgtgfaqs.htm there are some
major differings of opinion in the lighting Q and A's. In one
question, Anthony is saying to me that clams can be kept under PCs
just fine, and on another Q and A Jim is saying never try maximas
under anything but a 250w halide. <Interesting> I know that
lighting is probably the fuzziest area of our hobby, and everyone's
opinions are contributed to this site, but this is one heck of a
differing opinion! Just wondered what everyone else thought about
this. It just made me say "whoa!". <Thanks for this Mike...
Antoine? BobF who is of the opinion/stance that all Tridacnids can
do "well" under both types of lighting>Re: Discrepancy on the
Tridacna FAQ page - Jim Responds I pasted my reply below for
clarification - you might want to read it again. There is NO
hard and fast rule, and it's more a question of intensity rather
than type for starters. I have seen very intense maximas dull
down a bit under less than adequate lighting, although they grew and
thrived despite this. I've also pulled maximas out from behind
rockwork where they had fallen and been pretty much without light
for months on end and were none the worse for wear. What I said was
If you want a "can keep anything I want with no worries setup" go
with a 250W double ended (HQI) fixture, or a 400 watt mogul setup."
This will enable you to keep ANY clam, maxima or otherwise without
worrying about whether or not your lighting is adequate, or whether
or not it will retain the colors you see when it's shipped to you.
Regards Jim "175 watts is not enough light for the more
colorful Maximas - at least if you want it to retain it's vibrant
colors. Tridacna maxima is actually a very adaptable species, but
under inadequate lighting, they tend to lose their vibrancy. He
should live and grow in your setup though, and I would recommend you
place him in the top third of the tank. Also keep in mind that these
animals are filter feeders throughout their lives, despite what you
may read to the contrary. Add phyto every other day or so. I've
kept and grown T. Maximas with great success under 150 watt double
ended fixtures, but those are brighter than your 175 watt single
ended setup. Brown Maximas, or even T. squamosa should do fine with
your light. Again, the blue ones will live, but it's not ideal.
If you want a "can keep anything I want with no worries setup" go
with a 250W double ended (HQI) fixture, or a 400 watt mogul setup.
20k looks better too, IMO. If you upgrade, you can simply start the
fixture fairly high off of the water, and lower it a bit each week
until it's 10" or so above the water. Cheers Jim"
Re: Discrepancy on the Tridacna FAQ page - Anthony Responds
<Thanks for this Mike... Antoine? BobF who is of the opinion/stance
that all Tridacnids can do "well" under both types of lighting.>
Agreed... all clams can be kept under any lighting. To be
finessed as needed. Shallow placement under weaker configs, deeper
placement under more intense... considerations for ones water
clarity (or not), etc. Some of my nicest maximas and Croceas
through the years have been kept under hardware-store bought
daylight (6K) lamps with some old Phillips O3 blues for good measure
:) 20 and 40 watt lamps ta'boot... shoplights. Ahhh... the 80's :)
|
Lighting for maxima Dear WWM Crew, Let me begin by thanking
you for this wonderful site! <Thank you> I have a 29 gallon
glass tank with approximately 25 lbs. of LR, a clown goby, an ocellaris
clown, a cleaner shrimp, several dwarf hermits, and a mandarin. PH is at
8.2, ammonia is almost zero, same for nitrites, and my nitrates are
pretty low. Calcium is about 440 (I'm trying to encourage coralline
algae, it's been spreading well lately). I have wanted to keep a
Tridacnid for some time now, preferably a blue/purple maxima. I really
don't have the money for a metal halide setup, and I've heard that it's
possible to keep them under PC's, as long as they're higher up in the
tank. Could you give me your feelings and suggestions on this? Thanks so
much for all of your time and effort. This site is a lifesaver.
<Anne, PC's can be used to keep clams, but the wattage level would still
have to be high...six to seven watts per gallon. You would still be
looking at a 4x65 watt fixture. Orbit does make a 280 watt combo, one
150 HQI and two 65 watt PC's, but you are looking at $430.00. I would
look at HQI DIY fixtures. Either way, if you want to keep a maxima,
there is no cheap way out in the lighting department. James (Salty Dog)>
Clams, lights, Feedings - 7/31/05 Hi <Hi Steve, Ali here...>
I was reading you site about T. Clams and got mixed information about
lighting and feeding T. Clams. Here's my question can an adult T. Maxima
survive and thrive in a 60 aquarium with 260 watts of PC lighting.
<That won't cut it Steve, you need halides, preferably 2 x 250watt
bulbs. P.C. just aren't intense enough to keep the clam happy
long-term.> My second question is do T. Clams over 5 inches still
need to be feed live phytoplankton, My last is question will a T. Clam
eat copepods and such. <No and no. Intense lighting along with
stable (moderate-high) calcium/alk. parameters will be enough to keep
him healthy and growing> Sorry about all the questions but I really
want one but don't want it to die a few days later. Thanks <Good
luck and keep reading Steve! - Ali>
Tridacnid clams need intense lighting 8/5/05 Hello Crew,
Dr. E here.<<Hello Ethan, Ted on this end>> Thanks again for the
help. This is a quick one....I have 2 Tridacnid clams, I have 130W
daylight and 130W actinic light is this adequate?<<Probably not.>> I
have looked all over the site and haven't found a good answer
concerning actinic lights and clams.<<Tridacnid clams need intense
lighting. It is possible to keep Tridacnid clams under PC lighting
by keeping the clams closer to the light source (place them higher
on your reef) and/or compensating for the lack of light by feeding.
However, in my opinion, you are better off upgrading to metal halide
lighting. It gives you more options with respect to placement of the
clams as well as the option of adding SPS corals to your system.>>
Thank you. Ethan H. Morris DVM <<Cheers - Ted>> |
Re: Clams and Upgrading PC Lighting 8/6/05 Thanks
for the response. I am not sure what is available to me so that
I can use metal halide lighting with the setup I have. I have a
Current Dual Lamp light. Do they make bulbs to replace the
actinic and day light I currently have? If they do which one do
I replace?<<You're welcome. MH lighting and PC lighting use
different ballasts and fixtures so that simply replacing bulbs
is not an option. You will need to research MH lighting and
determine what is suitable for your tank. Considerations
include the dimensions of your tank, what livestock you
currently have and what you would like to add, hardware
aesthetics (using a canopy vs. pendants vs. fixtures). Also, you
will need to determine what MH bulb(s) you want to use. My
friend, you have a lot of reading! The good news is that WWM
has a lot of information to offer.>> If they don't make a
metal halide bulb how do you suggest I add one (I have enclosed
a photo of my tank). Would adding a halide light be too much for
my corals?<<After determining what MH fixture, bulbs, etc. you
are going to use, please search WWM on "acclimating corals to MH
lighting" and read through the FAQs. Good luck - Ted>> |
Re: Clams and Upgrading PC Lighting 8/11/05 Hello
Crew, <<Hello again Ethan. Ted here once again>> Thanks
again for the response. <<You're welcome>> I am going to add a
metal halide light to my system. I have 120g with 130W actinic
and 130 Daylight, would adding 175W of Metal halide be too much?
Or do I replace my current lights? <<If your 120g tank is
the standard dimensions of 48x24x24, then the 175W MH lighting
will work fine.>> Thank you. Dr. E <<Cheers - Ted>> |
Re: Clams and Upgrading PC Lighting 8/12/05 Sorry
just to be clear is that 175MH + my current lights or the MH
alone?<<Sorry for the confusion. The current lighting (130w PC
actinic and 130w PC daylight) together with the new lighting
(175w MH) will work fine.>> Ethan <<Cheers - Ted>> | 
|
Tridacnid Lighting 9/24/05 Hello everyone, <Hello
Tyler, Adam J with you.> I currently have a 135 gallon reef with
mostly LPS, Mushrooms & Zoanthids. My tank has 420 watts of VHO
lighting. I am planning to upgrade to 760 watts of VHO lighting. Is
there any type of clam I could keep with this setup? < A few
actually, the two larger clams in the Tridacnid family (T. squamosa and
T. derasa) should be fine in your set-up as they are the most tolerant
as far as lighting (Compared to their smaller cousins T. crocea and T.
maxima). Just make sure to keep Calc. Levels high (350+). Another thing
to keep in mind with these clams is their sizes. T. squamosa tops out at
around 12” with T. derasa at around 24”. See here for more detail
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm . Hippopus hippopus
would be a good choice too, requirements are about the same but I find
the Tridacnids to be more eye catching.> Thanks. Tyler
<Glad to have helped. Adam J.> Re: Tridacnid Lighting round 2
9/24/05 Wow, that was a fast response. Could I keep a Crocea if
it was in the upper part of the tank? <I would rather you try a
Squamosa or a Derasa first (especially if you have never kept Tridacnids
before). The T. crocea is in my experience the most demanding Tridacnid
as far as lightning goes and the most finicky as far as water quality
goes. Some clam enthusiasts will only recommend keeping these critters
under Metal Halide lighting, I won’t go that far but I will say I have
seen the best success with these under MH. Many of the Croceas sold as
“ULTRA” may not hold their color under the intensity of VHO, if you wish
to try it, is to place the clam in the upper 1/3 of the tank and monitor
it for signs of bleaching, browning and gaping. If you see these
symptoms its care is lacking in some area.> Is 760 watts overkill?
<Depends on what type of light and targeted specimens (not enough for
some too much for others), but for what your keeping this wattage of VHO
should be sufficient and then some.> Tyler <Adam J.>
T. crocea Lighting and Placement 11/30/05 Hi, <Hi
Dustin.> I have read though most of your articles and learned a ton
of information for when I set up my next tank, but in the meantime, I
have a few questions that I could not find answers to. <Ok.> I
would like to purchase a T. Crocea Clam (~1-2”), <I would go for one
in the 2+ range maybe even a little larger.> and have a question
about the lighting. I currently have a 40g tank, that is 36”x18” x 12”
deep, with a 175w 14000k MH light 5” from the surface of the water,
along with 3 – 24w 6500k mini-PC’s, and a 65w 50/50 ( ½ 10000K, ½
Actinic) PC. The MH is in the back-right side of the tank, the 3
mini-PCs are in the back-left side, and the PC is along the front of the
tank. I leave the MH and mini-PCs on for 11 hours a day, and the PC on
for 15.5 hours a day. I currently have 2 hammer frags under the MH and 4
candy coral frags under the mini-PCs. The hammers open up more than they
did at my LFS, and the candy coral seems to be doing OK, although the
heads aren’t opening as much. <I don’t think the lights or to blame
for that, the PC’s are efficient enough for this specimen, maybe water
flow?> My questions are: 1) Is 14000k MH okay for a T. Crocea
clam, or should I buy a 10000k replacement bulb? <I would rather see
10,000K for this specimen.> 2) Where would the best placement for
this clam be (which area of the tank, and at what elevation)? I would be
inclined to say at mid-depth under the MH, but I hear they need a more
full spectrum (mixture of my bulbs). <I would place it in the
rockwork, upper ½ of the tank as close to the MH bulb as possible. T.
Crocea is the most light demanding of Tridacnids. Also as far as
spectrum, most animals hosting zooxanthellae prefer Kelvin ratings of
6,500K to 10,000K. Actinics and bulbs in the 15,000K to 20,000K are
mainly for aesthetics.> 3) Is my MH lights left on too long (11
hr/day) for this clam? (I read here that some people leave theirs on for
6-8 hours per day) <11 hours is a bit long, I won’t say that it will
hurt the clam but it is unnecessary.> <<Where did these clams
evolve? The equatorial tropics. Anyone know what the
photoperiod of equatorial regions is? 12 hours of light, 12 of
dark. The goal is to mimic natural conditions. Marina>><Mmm,
gets "dark" much quicker underwater than above... due to angles of
refraction, and reflection. RMF> 4) What lighting is best for the
candy coral? I have read that they do not like direct MH lighting, so I
placed them under the mini-PCs, IYO, what is best? <There placement
as far as lighting needs appears fine.> Thanks, and keep up the good
work <You are welcome and thank you.> Dustin <Adam J.>
Lighting Upgrade for Tridacnids 12/12/05 Hi, <Hello.>
Thanks for having this website, it has increased my knowledge of how to
properly take care of my tank. <Thank you, I'm glad we
have helped.> I just wanted to ask you for a
recommendation/suggestion as to this question. <Sure.> I
currently have some shrooms, hammer coral, frogspawn, xenia, and a Monti
cap in my tank which is approx. 15inches deep. My question is I
currently have A 4X65 (260 WATTS) PC and want to get one crocea clam?
<Do you? This clam is the most light loving and sensitive of the
Tridacnids so I would research thoroughly, WWM is a good place to start,
and the book Reef Invertebrates has a great clam chapter, Giant Clams by
Daniel Knop is another great book.> Can I get rid of the PC's
altogether and just get two (2) MH pendants. <Yes that would be a
great upgrade to keep this clam.> Also, what bulb should I use? My
tank is 4 feet in length. <If it were me I would use x2, 250 watt
HQI pendants (PFO brand with the electronic ballast) and 10,000K bulbs.
That would give you plenty of light.> Thanks again, <No
problem.> Jose Nunez <Adam J.>
Crocea Lighting 1/9/08 Hello, First off, thank you for
answering mine and the thousands of other emails you must get.
<Hello, it is a collaborative effort, we do answer quite a few queries.>
I have a 125 gallon tank with an attached 30 gallon refugium & 20 gallon
sump. One half of the tank I keep open swimming space and the other half
I have live rock. Currently I have two 72 in blue actinic bulbs powered
by an Ice Cap 660 ballast. I also have a 36 in PC 10k bulb over the LR.
I received a Crocea clam recently and would like to upgrade the PC
lighting to MH. <Good idea.> The tank is 18 inches deep, but I
plan to keep the clam about 6 to 8 inches from the surface after
acclimation to the new lights. Would you recommend 175 or 250 watts for
this distance? <The 175 will work fine at this distance for the
clam.> Also, what type of corals would you recommend keeping with the
clam? <This depends greatly on your taste in corals! Anemones are not
a good idea. With other corals just be sure to give the clam its space,
and that your corals do not shade the clam. Certain corals lend
themselves to be kept with clams, such as Acroporas, simply because they
have similar needs in tank conditions (high lighting and flow needs).
Thank you <Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: New Setup, Clams 1/11/08 Chris, <Hello> Thanks for you
help. <Welcome> Would the T5 system allow me to grow giant clams
as well? <Depends> If I were to go with MH, would 3x175W be enough
or should I go to 3x250W configuration? And finally, for a watt-to-watt
comparison, are the T5HO lights more cost effective than MH? Thank
you very much. Cheers, John <All I know about clams I got from
here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/Tridacna/GotTridacna.htm and
the related FAQs , this article should help with the lighting choices
and livestock placement.> <Chris>
Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not “Really” A
Biotope… Bummer) – 01/16/08 Hello, <<Hiya Barb!>> I am
in pre-setup stages for a 65g (36 x 18 x 24deep, with a brace in the
center) biotope shallow reef clam tank. <<Ahh…I love it when
aquarists use the “B” word! Can/will make “life” so much easier in
the long term>> I am planning on a DSB of approximately 4”-5".
<<Very good…and I suggest sugar-fine aragonite for this>> I have
had lots of different opinions on lighting. <No doubt, and you’re
about to get another>> In my tank I would like a variety of
clams, and some stony corals; LPS and SPS placed mid to high.
<<Mmm, well…so much for the biotope…>> There are some softies I'd
like to try on the bottom, <<So, what you really want is a “reef
garden” style of tank>> and eventually some clowns paired with a
BTA (this is not certain as I know my tank is small and may be cruel
for an anemone). <<Yikes! Indeed…and cruel as well to the sessile
denizens of this tank if this motile creature decides to go for a
stroll>> I am not planning on many fish; a pair of clowns, some
pajama cardinals, possibly some anthias, and down the road if tank
conditions mature as hoped, a dragonet and possibly a blue spot
Jawfish. <<Well Barb, I think you and I have different ideas of
what “not many fish” constitutes for this tank. While this stock
list is not excessive (depending on final numbers of Cardinals and
Anthiines), it certainly isn’t a “light” load for this tank>>
Naturally, this is all up for discussion and will probably change as
time goes by! :) <<Ah good…let’s do bandy back and forth before
anything becomes “permanent”>> I will have lots of flow, and a
50g sump with a remote 20g-long refugium. <<All “pluses” here.
You will also need a good quality skimmer, and some way to provide
chemical filtration (canister filter or media reactor of some kind).
And while we’re talking chemical filtration…while
“researching/reading-up on” the other aspects of reef keeping, do a
keyword search on our site and read-up on “Allelopathy”>> My
canopy is 9" high, but the interior has a shelf where the canopy is
to be placed on the tank, so the inside height for lighting is 6".
<<Hmm, I’m a fan of metal halide for most all marine systems…but
this canopy sounds too limiting/would position the lights too close
to the water I think. I think overheating will be an issue…and water
splashes could easily “do in” the bulbs or if present, constantly
coat/obscure the shields (aside from outright failure, broken bulbs
can also pose shock or fire hazards…and a broken bulb that is still
burning can seriously damage livestock from excessive UV)>> I am
happy to drill the top and sides and install fans for cooling, and
the back of the canopy is open so other fans could be placed there
if necessary. <<Even so…I think you’re best going with T5
lighting if you stick with this canopy>> I live in NE Ohio; hot
in summer and COLD (brrr) in winter. <<Ah yes, luckily winters
are shorter and more temperate here in South Carolina>> My house
is kept cool in both summer and winter; pretty much 72-73 year
round. <<I see…but doesn’t change my opinion re halides in this
canopy…still too close to the water, in my “opinion”>> Here are
some lighting suggestions I've received from other aquarists and
some lighting vendors: 1. 6x39w T5 HO; brand suggested Sunlight
Tek retrofit kit, or fixture, with an assortment of blue to white
bulbs. <<The T5s are a viable option, though since you wish to
keep clams and SPS (Acroporids I assume), I would go with 8 of the
39w lamps…six 10,000K and two Actinic>> 2. Current Outer Orbit
2x250 10k HQI, 4x39w T5 HO, 9 blue/9white lunar lights <<Too much
wattage on the halides>> 3. Current Outer Orbit 2x150 10k, HQI,
4x39w T5 HO, same lunar lights <<This would be my first choice of
any listed thus far…though I would be inclined to search out a
different brand>> 4. Solaris Galileo LED fixture. Not sure how
these are being received yet. <<The systems seem promising and
expectations are high… Though currently, you’ll about have to get a
second mortgage to finance one more than a couple feet in length>>
Company claims that the things I would like to have will do "great"
under the LED's. <<I have heard these clams as well…have even
spoken to folks doing some testing re. I do like the
functionality/adaptability/flexibility of the units…I’m just not
convinced yet that what is currently offered can go “toe-to-toe”
with metal halide lighting. Still, if you can afford/want to go with
one of these units it will likely suffice. Just do be aware; any one
lighting solution is not going to be the “best” solution in a “reef
garden” such as you are planning>> Pricey, too, but again company
claims the fixture pays for itself in relatively short time.
<<Mmm, will still be measured in “years”>> I understand the heat
involved with MH so I'm not sure my canopy is high enough for this.
<<Agreed…and can cause more than heat issues, as explained>> I
don't want to damage the life in my tank, my canopy, or my electric
bill (not too much anyway :) ). I also like the option of 24hr
lighting in one fixture. <<Are we still talking about the LED
fixture?>> The T5 lighting option does not leave much room in the
canopy to add lunar lighting, as the canopy is hinged halfway
through the top...there is 10" available space in front of the
hinges, and 10" behind the hinges. <<Should be plenty… The T5s
can be mounted individually with individual reflectors…thus allowing
you to use the full measure of the canopy lid>> Please offer
opinions and suggestions on these different options, and please be
happy to add other suggestions as well! <<Have done so [grin]>>
Thank you for your time! Barb M. <<Feel free to write back for
further clarification/discussion on any of these issues. Regards,
Eric Russell>>
Re: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not
“Really” A Biotope… Bummer) – 01/18/08 <<Hi Barb…FYI- I’ve
taken the excerpts of my responses you included from our previous
exchange and placed them between double asterisks (**)>> **Ahh…I
love it when aquarists use the “B” word! Can/will make “life” so
much easier in the long term** This is what I thought! <<Yes,
but you’ve strayed to the dark side [grin]. Not that reef-garden
tanks can’t be kept…the majority of hobbyists do…but putting some
thought toward choosing a particular “niche” on the reef to
replicate, and limiting livestock selections re can pay big
dividends in the long-term>> ** Very good…and I suggest
sugar-fine aragonite for this** Yep! Planned for. <Excellent>
** No doubt, and you’re about to get another** That's why I
wrote! :) <<Hope you found it useful>> **Mmm, well…so much for
the biotope…** I'll say the dreaded phrase; "from what I've
read". I read about this style of tank in John Tullock's Natural
Reef Aquariums; Simplified Approaches to Creating Living Microcosms.
<<Hmm, my reference/hobby books are currently packed-up (in the
middle of renovations)>> But, as I've just opened the book I see
I've mis-stated myself! Oh, geez. <<Oh?>> Well, here goes: It
appears I have mixed up my purposes (but you knew that! lol)... this
approach is called in the book "An Inshore Aquarium for Clown-fish".
<<I still gotta say, I just don’t think mixing corals/clams with an
anemone is good practice unless the tank is very large (hundreds of
gallons) and the other invertebrate life well established
(hardened), and the anemone is suitably isolated/separated from the
sessile animals…and even then, best left to experienced hobbyists.
If you really want to have that “symbiotic” experience…I recommend
you study up on the species of anemone you want to keep (some are
easier/better suited to captive life than others) and set up a tank
just for this…along with a pair of the proper species of Clownfish>>
I think with all the studying I'm doing my brain has become very
confused. <<Perhaps a quiet moment with a glass of wine is in
order…>> Here's what he suggests. Let's see if you agree with the
approach: "for a smaller system" he suggests a pairing of
tank-raised Amphiprion clarkii clownfish and a Macrodactyla
doreensis. <<Good choices…though there are other suitable; and in
my opinion more attractive, Clownfishes that can be kept with this
anemone>> Other fish he recommends: Mandarin fish- Synchiropus
splendidus or Synchiropus picturatus (added after the tank is very
mature), <<I think your tank is too small for these very
specialized feeders, ever…and they are also likely to become
“anemone food”>> Six or Four Line Wrasse, <<Do be cautious
here, these can become quite the little terror… Definitely the
“last” to be added in the stocking order>> Anthias, Cardinals,
Damsels, grazing Tangs (obviously I would not have all these fish,
but choose from the list). <<Indeed… But this tank is too small
for a Tang as well>> Sabellid worms, Giant clams such as Tridacna
squamosa, T. gigas, T. crocea, Hippopus hippopus. SPS corals, with
careful placement to avoid interaction with the anemone.
<<Mmmm…>> No softies to mess with the anemone, <<Wise>> of
which there would be one. What do you think? <<Have stated my
opinions [grin]. And I still think the SPS and a clam or two would
make for a great display…>> **Well Barb, I think you and I have
different ideas of what “not many fish” constitutes for this tank.
While this stock list is not excessive (depending on final numbers
of Cardinals and Anthiines), it certainly isn’t a “light” load for
this tank** I'm still learning! And, I'm teachable! << Very
good, Grasshopper (imagine my best Chinese accent here). Do keep
reading/researching your choices re environmental requirements,
compatibility, et al… And if/when necessary…you know where to find
me>> **Ah good…let’s do bandy back and forth before anything
becomes “permanent” ** Yes, definitely, lets! <<Cool>>
**All “pluses” here. You will also need a good quality skimmer, and
some way to provide chemical filtration (canister filter or media
reactor of some kind). And while we’re talking chemical
filtration…while “researching/reading-up on” the other aspects of
reef keeping, do a keyword search on our site and read-up on
“Allelopathy” ** I have an ASM G2 skimmer with a Sedra 5000 pump.
How’s that? <<Should do nicely>> I will read up on
Allelopathy, which I believe has to do with chemical warfare between
corals in tanks? <<Indeed, but more than just corals… Algae,
sponges, many types of organisms can/will employ chemical means of
defense>> The chemical filtration will help with allelopathy, I
presume? <<And more…>> **Hmm, I’m a fan of metal halide for
most all marine systems…but this canopy sounds too limiting/would
position the lights too close to the water I think. I think
overheating will be an issue…and water splashes could easily “do in”
the bulbs or if present, constantly coat/obscure the shields (aside
from outright failure, broken bulbs can also pose shock or fire
hazards…and a broken bulb that is still burning can seriously damage
livestock from excessive UV) ** The rests for the canopy could be
lowered about 1-1/2in, would that make a difference? <<...?
Wouldn’t this just place the bulbs even closer to the surface of the
water? Or perhaps I have misunderstood>> Or, I could call the LFS
and see if they will let me return it for a store credit. <<This
would be my first choice>> **Even so…I think you’re best going
with T5 lighting if you stick with this canopy** Okay. I think I
may be inclined to return it or sell it so I can get the most
effective lighting for the tank. **Ah yes, luckily winters are
shorter and more temperate here in South Carolina** My son lives
in NC on Topsail Island. His winters are nice, too! <<Likely a
bit cooler this weekend!>> **The T5s are a viable option, though
since you wish to keep clams and SPS (Acroporids I assume), I would
go with 8 of the 39w lamps…six 10,000K and two Actinic** Okay,
gotcha! **Too much wattage on the halides** That's what I
figured when this was suggested! 'X'ed off the list. **This would
be my first choice of any listed thus far…though I would be inclined
to search out a different brand** Can you recommend any brands?
<<Hmm, I generally “build my own” from DIY components. I suggest you
visit the reef forums (ReefCentral.com/Reefs.org) and query folks
there re a quality fixture>> This configuration would be good,
though, for the "new" biotope I outlined above? <<Yes>> **
Mmm, will still be measured in “years” ** This is what I figured,
and I am NOT considering it. **Agreed…and can cause more than
heat issues, as explained** Yes, I understand. <<Ah good>>
**Are we still talking about the LED fixture? ** No, the Current
USA 2x150 fixture I mentioned above has 24 hour lighting... it was
attractive to me for that reason. <<I see>> **Should be
plenty… The T5s can be mounted individually with individual
reflectors…thus allowing you to use the full measure of the canopy
lid** Okay, I will look into measurement information this
evening. **Have done so [grin]** Yes, you have, Thank you!
<<A pleasure>> **Feel free to write back for further
clarification/discussion on any of these issues. Regards, Eric
Russell** And, this is my reply... Thank you very much, Eric!
Barb M. <<Be chatting! EricR>>
R2: Lighting For 65g Biotope Shallow Reef Clam Tank (But Not
“Really” A Biotope…Bummer) – 01/19/08 <<Hi Barb!…just like
the last…excerpts of my responses you included from our previous
exchange placed between double asterisks (**) for clarity (I hope)>>
**Yes, but you’ve strayed to the dark side [grin]. Not that
reef-garden tanks can’t be kept…the majority of hobbyists do…but
putting some thought toward choosing a particular “niche” on the
reef to replicate, and limiting livestock selections re can pay big
dividends in the long-term** I feel I’ve been pulled back to The
Light. <<Ah! A convert…>> I do want to do the safest thing for
the living beings under my care (insert Grasshopper voice here) :)
<<Hee-hee! You/your livestock will be better for it in the long
term>> **Perhaps a quiet moment with a glass of wine is in
order…** A nice Merlot? <<A fine choice…though I’ve become
partial to the fuller-bodied, woody flavor of a good Shiraz>>
**Good choices…though there are other suitable; and in my opinion
more attractive, Clownfishes that can be kept with this anemone**
Please do tell what these other Clownfishes are. <<Listed here,
along with a good article on Macrodactyla doreensis…
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm >> **Do be cautious
here, these can become quite the little terror… Definitely the
“last” to be added in the stocking order** I understand that
Wrasses can be troublesome. <<Some species more than others,
yes>> I did read they can be helpful in keeping nasties from
bothering clams. Is this accurate? <<It is>> Is there another
suitable fish that could take the place of said Wrasse? <<It is
my opinion that a suitably-sized Halichoeres species would be a
better selection for your tank than “any” of the Pseudocheilinus
species. A couple of my faves are H. ornatissimus and H. chrysus…
Have a look here… http://www.wetwebmedia.com/halichoeresbestart.htm
>> **Indeed… But this tank is too small for a Tang as well**
Yep, I know that about Tangs; they need way more swimming room than
this tank can provide. Wasn’t considering. <<Encouraging to
know>> **Mmmm…** A murmur of agreement, or disagreement?
<<Of concern…re the inclusion/addition of the anemone>> **Wise**
Told you I was teachable! <<Ah, putty in my hands [grin]. But
seriously, as much as I like my own opinions, do seek out
information from other sources as well, and use your own good
judgment to make your decisions>> **Have stated my opinions
[grin]. And I still think the SPS and a clam or two would make for a
great display…** I agree, and it sure makes it more simple to
know what my goal is. <<And more simple to research>> I know I
will need to wait probably a year (if the tank matures correctly) to
actually bring an anemone home. I've read differing opinions;
whether to add the clowns to the tank ahead of the anemone, or
vice-versa. What would you recommend, and why? <<If you do this
(add an anemone), I recommend allowing the Cnidarian to become
acclimated/hardened before introducing the clowns as they can be
pretty rough on a newly acquired, and therefore stressed, anemone>>
Once I have cured my LR and I am ready for a CUC, what makeup of
crew would you recommend for my little niche of clownfish land? Are
there things you can recommend, or suggest things to stay away from?
<<Indeed… Do read-up on our site re “cleanup crews”…but when
utilizing a DSB I am partial to the small burrowing and detritus
feeding snails such as Cerith and Nassarius species. The smaller
Brittle and Serpent stars are very good detritivores, but can become
hazardous to smaller fishes if/when they become large…and do avoid
the Green Brittle Star altogether (genus Ophiarachna). Many folks
also employ supposedly reef-safe crabs (“hermit” or otherwise), but
I don’t, as I feel they are “too” opportunistic in their feeding
habits>> **Very good, Grasshopper (imagine my best Chinese accent
here). Do keep reading/researching your choices re environmental
requirements, compatibility, et al… And if/when necessary…you know
where to find me** Allelopathy is on the study menu for the
weekend. <<Excellent my friend>> **And more…** Which I'll
learn about this weekend... probably be back with some questions.
<<Looking forward to it>> **...? Wouldn’t this just place the
bulbs even closer to the surface of the water? Or perhaps I have
misunderstood** If I lower the ledges in the canopy, it will ride
higher on the tank…giving about 7-1/2" for the lights instead of 6".
<<Ah, I see now…still marginal for halides I think>> **This would
be my first choice** They <<LFS>> will take the canopy back for
store credit. However, I've decided to go with T5 lighting retrofits
as you suggested to use with the canopy. <<Okay…do fit “as many”
bulbs as you can. And keep the addition of bulbs in the short-wave
(Actinic) spectrum to the very minimum>> Thanks once again, Eric,
for your guidance (said in my best Grasshopper voice) :) Barb
M. <<LOL! Quite welcome, Barb! Cheers, Eric Russell>> |
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