Goldfish... sys.  11/25/2007
Hi WetWebMedia,
About six months ago, I rescued three goldfish from a county fair. The goldfish started out about 3/4 of an inch a piece. They are currently living in a 10 gallon tank with a GREAT filter. However, my goldfish are rapidly growing and are now about 1 1/2 inches a piece. (One is closer to two) I realize that even with great filtration, a 10 gallon tank is not enough, however, my goldfish are still somewhat small. I am in the market for a new tank, but I don't know what size to buy. I was considering a 30 gallon. Would this be enough to house my goldfish? I really don't have room for anything larger, and I read that 10 gallons per adult goldfish should be adequate. I'm not quite sure on the species of the goldfish, they're just the regular kind they give away at fairs. Do you think a 30 gallon would be good? Also, what size filter should I buy, because goldfish are quite messy? (Right now I have a 20 gallon filter for my 10 gallon)
Thank you for your help!
-Carly
<Hello Carly. A 30 gallon tank would be perfect for your Goldfish. 10 gallons per Goldfish is too little space: these fish get to at least 20 cm in captivity, and potentially more than 30 cm. So A good rule of thumb is to set aside 30 gallons for the first Goldfish, and then another 10-15 gallons for each additional Goldfish. Some people would recommend more space than that, and I certainly wouldn't disagree with them. Goldfish are schooling fish and like to be kept in groups, at least a pair. The more is definitely the merrier. Instead of the fish just sitting there, as tends to happen when a single specimen is kept, pairs and trios will constantly play around, chasing each other. To some extent it depends on the variety; fancy goldfish (i.e., fish with twin tail fins) are less active than regular goldfish (i.e., fish with a single normal tail fin). Comets and traditional Goldfish are active swimmers, and the more space you give them, the better. Length of the tank is more important than depth, so if that's a factor when choosing between tanks of identical volume, go for the longer tank. As for the filter, ignore what's written on the box: manufacturers are often rather vague and/or optimistic when writing that stuff! Instead, look at the turnover of the filter. This is a measure of how much water goes through the filter. You want something that provides a turnover of not less than 4 times the volume of the tank, and ideally 6 times. So if you had a 40 gallon tank, then a filter that was 4 x 40 = 160 gallons per hour in size would be the minimum, and a filter 6 x 40 = 240 gallons per hour would the ideal. Simple as that. This number will be printed on the box somewhere, and is usually provided by retailers on their web sites as well. You don't have to use just one filter, you could simply buy another filter to go with the one you have. So long as when added together they provide enough turnover, you're fine. Cheers, Neale.>

Goldfish shut off the undergravel filter? Eats shoots and leaves...  7/14/06
Hello,
<<Hi. Tom with you.>>
I read on your web site that undergravel filters are not recommended for goldfish.
<<Goldfish in particular because of their "messiness" but the recommendation holds for other species as well. I, and others, have addressed this one before but it may bear repeating. We don't recommend against this style of filter because it doesn't work. They can/do work quite well, in fact. The two primary causes for concern, however, is that these MUST cover the entire bottom of the tank and they MUST be maintained properly. When the first admonition is ignored or misapplied, pockets of detritus/mulm can build up in the "unfiltered" areas leading to potentially toxic levels of nitrates in the tank. Also, when not properly maintained, the same situation may arise should the filter plate(s) become clogged and left untended. This one may sound like a case of "pilot error" rather than the fault of the filter and, while we wouldn't argue that point, there are just too many good alternatives available to aquarists to justify the use of a style of filter that has led to a great many problems including otherwise "mysterious" deaths of livestock.>>
I have a 46 gallon tank with 2 medium Orandas and 1 Ryukin. Currently I have an undergravel filter and a TetraTec PF500 power filter. I am considering shutting the undergravel filter off. I have a hot magnum filter that I could use to clean the gravel with prior to shut down and then reload with carbon to assist filtration during the transition. Do you have any advice or feedback?
<<Your plan sounds fine and will eliminate potential problems down the road. Why run the risk?>>
Thanks!
<<Any time. Tom>>

Small fantail goldfish with big filter  2/12/07
Hi,
<<Hello, Quang. Tom with you.>>
I am a beginner and I learned a lot from your web site.  Thank you.
<<You’re most welcome and I’m glad to hear we’ve been of help to you.>>
I have a 30 gallon tank (cube), and I plan to use Fluval 305 for it: since goldfish can be quite messy.
<<Very true. 30 gallons is a good size, by the way.>>
I also plan to have 2 to 4 small fantail goldfish in it.  I wonder if the filter is too much for small goldfish.  
<<Keep the number of Goldfish to two, Quang. The filter you suggest will be fine for these fish. The flow from the output tube can be regulated by the shutoff handle if you feel that it’s too much for the fish. Simply lift it up a little to slow the flow down. (I have the 304 model and this works very well.)>>
Or should I go for 205 model (which is recommended up to 40 gals)?
<<I’d prefer that you use more filtration rather than less. Small Goldfish won’t stay “small”. It’s better to have the larger filter.>>
Thank you very much,
Quang.
<<You’re very welcome. Tom>>

Filters--question in general then specific to goldfish  - 2/11/2006
Hi WWM,
<Katie>
I'm planning a 29-gallon goldfish tank (2-3 fancies).  I read in your goldfish care article that wet/dry and trickle filters are not recommended, that power filters are recommended.  What category does a BioWheel fall  into?
<An outside, hang-on power filter...>
I kind of thought it was a wet/dry (I guess I thought it was a  trickle too, since water "trickles" over the wheel!), but the Penguins are in  the power filter category in online stores, so I'm confused.
<The BioWheels are basically Penguins with a wheel added>
Also, would  you mind recommending a particular filter for 2-3 goldfish in a 29-gallon  setup?
<The Penguin would be close to ideal>
  Having only an Eclipse right now, I'm not very filter-savvy, and  would appreciate your advice.  I was thinking of just getting the 29-gal  Eclipse and calling it a day, but I don't want to make that decision based  on my "fear of the unknown"!
Thank you,
Katie
<The Eclipse can be made to work here... with limiting feeding, keeping low stocking level as you propose, and weekly water changes in conjunction with gravel vacuuming... Bob Fenner>

Goldfish Filtration - 03/18/2006
I would like to take the best possible care of my treasured Orandas. These fish are like members of the family to me. I would die if anything bad ever happened to them. I just have a few quick questions.
1.)What brand of filter and size is the best for my goldfish since they produce so much waste? Currently I have a 29 gallon with two power filters on it. One is a 40 gallon TopFin and the other is a Marineland 40 gallon Bio Wheel. I add the Ammo Chips to it to absorb ammonia. I also have a 20 gallon tank with a 30 gallon Tetra Whisper Power Filter. By the way, I did have a Bio Wheel on the 20 gallon, but it was too noisy in my bedroom, and I also didn't like it as the only filter because I can't add media to it. The other tank is in the living room so it doesn't matter. I heard that Bio Wheels are the best and to get double the gallons of what your tank actually holds. If Bio Wheels are the best, then I will go buy one and get used to it because I want the best for them. Also, how much aeration is recommended for goldies?
Each tank has a foot long bubble bar.
< The best filter is the one that is the easiest to service. Filters collect waste from the system but you need to remove it from the system. I really do like the Bio-Wheel technology on the Marineland filters. The Marineland Penguin Model 200 pumps up to 200 gph and has an additional basket for adding filter media. Take the cartridge out once a week and give a good shot from the nozzle of a garden hose and you are back in business in no time. With these filters you do not need a additional bubble wand.>
2.)What is the best goldfish food? I feed mine Hikari Gold and HBH brand both sinking pellets. I read really great reviews on a food only available from Goldfish Connection called Pro Gold and I want to order it.
What do y'all think?
<  There are lots of foods out there. Breeders may use foods that are higher in protein to promote spawning and increase egg production. Many foods are very messy and are designed for fish kept in large systems. I am always trying out new foods all the time. Order the smallest quantity you can and try it. You can always go back.>
3.)What is the best ammonia removing chemical? I am using Amquel, but I have read a lot about AmmoLock on your site.
< Bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrites and then to nitrates are the best way to go. They work all the time and are never exhausted or quit. I use White Diamond from Marineland but really don't use or need it that often. The other products work very well too. I just have a preference for a product that works well for my particular water and fish.>
4.)I test my water at least once a week at PetSmart and my ammonia is always safe, but the nitrates are high. How can I keep nitrates down? Are there any good chemicals? I change 20% of the water about every 10 days. I plan to increase water changes to 25% every week after doing some research.
The pH was also only 6.0 in the 30 gallon tank! I think that's bad, what do I do? I was going to buy the pH up by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, but I don't know if that's the best. Will a sudden increase in pH shock them?
< Reduce nitrates with water changes. Clean the filter, change water and vacuum the gravel more often. I have not found any chemicals that really work over a long time to reduce nitrates. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with tap water and test it. Bring the ph up to 7 in the bucket and let it sit for 24 hours. Check it again the next day. If it is still at seven then you can use this water for changing water. Never change the pH directly in the aquarium with fish. Always change it in a separate container first and make sure it is stable. After a few water changes the pH will gradually move up to 7 and stay stabile.>
5.)Are there any scavengers that eat poop? I know that sounds gross, but I would like to keep the tanks as clean as possible. I do vacuum my gravel once a month.
< Vacuum the gravel more often. Snails and weather loaches will eat any leftover food and may keep the sand cleaner.>
This is nothing urgent. I have had my 30 gallon tank very successfully for about a year. The 20 gallon is only about 6 weeks old. I have always wondered if I am taking the best possible care I can of my goldies. If there is something I could be doing better, I would love to know. I greatly appreciate your time and your website. Happy St. Patty's Day! Thanks so much,
Adrienne N. Duque
< If all aquarists were like you we would probably not be needed here at WWM.-Chuck>

Submersible pumps, goldfish sys.    3/31/06
Dear Crew,
  I have a 29 gallon Wal-Mart tank that used to house a variety of fish.  Due to a bit of a catastrophe, I am down to 4 goldfish.
<This is or will be too many for this volume...>
I have an undergravel filter that is powered by a noisy pump that vibrates the shelf it is on, and also the wall the shelf is on.
<There are quiet/er pumps available... you may want to look outside Wal-Mart>
  There are two air tubes leading from my pump to my filter.  I purchased a Rio 600 submersible pump to power my filter and please my husband (who keeps unplugging the pump because it annoys him.)  Unfortunately, I cannot figure out how to hook the Rio pump up to run my filter set up.  
<Mmm, it may not be able to... but you might ask that annoyed spouse to look into flexible tubing that will fit on the discharge of the Rio, a "tee" to split the flow and tubing and small/er pieces possibly to adapt to the (currently) discharge pipes of the UG filter... to make this a "reverse flow" set up... do make sure to screen the pump intake, as goldfish et al. can be sucked up against these>
Do I need an adapter of some sort or a different pump?  Thank you for your time, Kathy
<Can adapt the Rio... or look for another less noisome air pump... but really, for goldfish, and this tank, a hang-on power filter with removable sponges, pockets for using/changing activated carbon, regular/weekly water changes is about ideal... I would look into this and change all myself. Bob Fenner>

Re: Submersible pumps, goldfish sys.    4/4/06
> Dear Crew,
>  I have a 29 gallon Wal-Mart tank that used to house a variety of fish.  Due to a bit of a catastrophe, I am down to 4 goldfish.
> <This is or will be too many for this volume...>
> I have an undergravel filter that is powered by a noisy pump that vibrates the shelf it is on, and also the wall the shelf is on.
> <There are quiet/er pumps available... you may want to look outside Wal-Mart>
>  There are two air tubes leading from my pump to my filter.   I purchased a Rio 600 submersible pump to power my filter and please my husband (who keeps unplugging the pump because it annoys him.)   Unfortunately, I cannot figure out how to hook the Rio pump up to run my filter set up.
> <Mmm, it may not be able to... but you might ask that annoyed spouse to look into flexible tubing that will fit on the discharge of the Rio, a "tee" to split the flow and tubing and small/er pieces possibly to adapt to the (currently) discharge pipes of the UG filter... to make this a "reverse flow" set up... do make sure to screen the pump intake, as goldfish et al. can be sucked up against  these>
> Do I need an adapter of some sort or a different pump?  Thank you for your time, Kathy
> <Can adapt the Rio... or look for another less noisome air pump...
> but really, for goldfish, and this tank, a hang-on power filter with removable sponges, pockets for using/changing activated carbon, regular/weekly water changes is about ideal... I would look into this and change all myself. Bob Fenner>
>  Thank you for all your help and information.  I may try to set up the Rio, or just find a quieter outside pump.  I have a hang on filter on the tank now and had recently added the undergravel because the hang on couldn't keep up with the load.  But then I forgot that my son had played with the plants in the dishwater and put them back in and killed most of my fish. I still run the pump for the air stone if I'm not running the undergravel just to keep some circulation, so  I will need to find a quieter solution!!  I appreciate all the assistance!!!!  Thank you, Kathy
<Do look into hang-on power filter options here... Bob Fenner>

Filtering and Tank size  12/24/05
Hi there, I have a small white fantail goldfish but am having some difficulty with his tank.
The tank is a 18x9x10.
He's a year old now and sadly his tank mate died after having swim bladder problems so he's all alone.
<No worries. Goldfishes don't get/feel lonely...>
I take a pint of water out and replace it with a fresh pint each week and feed him once a day.
<Mmm, better to change a bit more out, feed twice daily. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm>
My problem lie's with the filter I bought a few months ago. It is  what the pet shop recommended me for the tank size but when I got is up and  running it was blowing him about everywhere. In the end he just swims against  the current
or hides in his treasure chest. I went back to the pet shop and  explained what was going on and was told that it was quite normal and the fish  would get used to it.
<Mmm, am not so sure here... some current, circulation is useful, but there are limits>
Its been quite a few months now and I only switch it on for a hour or  two each day because I can't stand the sight of my fish swirling about. It's  just a shame.
Is this ok?
<No...>
The pet shop said his filter should be on 24 hours a day  but I really don't think he could handle that all the time. The filter is the smallest I can get and is on the lowest setting. Is it possible to not use  it at all?
<I would trade this filter in... talk with someone else at the shop... perhaps the owner or manager... there are small/er hang on units that do a good job for this size (about ten gallons) and type system>
I was told that all fish need a filter whether you change the  water on not, did they only say this to sell me it?
Thank you, Steff
<Do speak with someone else at your LFS. Bob Fenner>

Filtration for Big Pond Fish in a tank
Hello, I bought a used 150 gallon tank for over-wintering my pond fish, a 12 inch goldfish and a 15 inch koi. The tank came with a UGF, a Magnum 350 and an Emperor 400. I have been using 3 400gph powerheads on the UGF and am running a HOT Magnum with bio media. I vacuum the gravel once a week and change 30% of the water, but cannot seem to stay ahead of the accumulation of waste.
<Good protocol... but these are messy fishes... I would cut way back on feeding... especially if the water is cool>
I had hoped to be able to rotate cleaning the filters so they were cleaned every four weeks, but they have been clogging in just 2 weeks.
<I would clean one or the other every week, when you do your gravel vacuuming/water changes>
These fish will go into a 400 gal stock tank with my water lilies in another 6 weeks, but I would appreciate suggestions to help me next winter. Do I need more, or different, filtration? Should I vacuum the gravel and siphon water more often? Or do I need another approach altogether? Thank you very much. Kerry
<You might want to add a couple of large size in-tank air-driven "corner filters"... with "wool" (Dacron floss) and activated carbon... otherwise, your set-up is about ideal... Some folks would caution you against the UG use... but if you're changing water as you state, and your source water has sufficient alkaline reserve (buffer), I think this is fine. Bob Fenner>   

Filtration for Big Pond Fish in a tank - II
Hi Bob, Thanks for the quick reply, the suggestions and the encouragement. What is the concern about using the UGF?  For several years I kept a 75 gal tetra tank and used the UGF plus 2 HOT Magnum Filters, so I assumed I should use the UGF on this tank. 
<Ah, times change... am still a big fan of this technology... for some applications. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/ug5proscons.htm >
I will purchase corner filters for use next year, thanks for that idea. I am using AquaClear powerheads and they make a Quick Filter attachment for them. Would it be feasible to disconnect the powerheads from the UGF and use them with the Quick Filters stuffed with floss? 
<Mmm, not practically... much better to use air... added benefits of aeration... Look at the Tetra Luft pumps for best value here>
Once the fish go outside I will have the summer to play with the setup. Thanks again,
Kerry
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>   

Goldfish System Filtration
Hello There!
Wondering if you guys can steer me to the proper canister filter for our 75 gallon bowfront aquarium. This aquarium has been up and running for 4 months. It houses 5 Fancy Goldfish ranging in sizes 2-5 inches. The aquarium has cycled. Yes, I know that Goldfish are messy :-)  The problem lies with the fact that I am now having to change the water (this is a 70% change) twice a week in order to have anything resembling clean water for these fish. We are presently using a Fluval 404 canister filter.
<Just one? I would have used at least two for a standard community tank. For goldfish, I really like to use trickle filters if possible.>
Filter media (floss) is changed on a rotating schedule a day after the water change. Half of the media is changed, sponges are squeezed out in the tank water.
<The water changes are helping, but removing and disturbing your filtration is not. Even tough you are under filtered, all of this "maintenance" has got to be wreaking havoc on your nitrifying bacteria.>
Tank is vacuumed every water change! I truly have stopped over feeding, as I did at first. Lights are on about 9-10 hours daily.  So, we are figuring that the Fluval filter is not the proper filter for our setup.
<I agree.>
To be fair, I understand it is made to work below the tank, and we have it set up beside the tank. Our tank sits on the hearth about 5 inches off the floor, with the canister beside it.
<This is both a plus and a minus. The reduced head pressure should make the pump's work easier and increase the flow, but it will make it harder to clear the air out of the canister.>
With the tank covering the fireplace opening, there is no type of hang on filter we can use. There is A LOT of air trapped constantly in the Fluval, although we are constantly messing with it. We were thinking of switching to an Eheim canister, the biggest they make! It would be another enormous expense, and as much as we are enjoying the fish, the every other day chores (water change or filter change) are getting exhausting and I don't want to put money into something else that is not going to work out. Sorry if this is so long!
<No worries>
Do you have any recommendations on what we are doing wrong,
<Yes to the water changes, with perhaps being able to cut back to one per week of about 50%, but with 5 goldfish in a 72 you are going to have to perform large frequent water changes. It is the filter itself and your cleaning of it that is hurting you. I would add a second canister filter, as that is all you could add due to placement, and I would clean each filter less. Once per month for each, one every other week on alternate schedules.>
and if the Eheim would work for us?
<Yes, in combination with your Fluval.>
Thanks much for your time! ~Robyn~
<I do want to mention that you should be applauded for your incredible efforts thus far. Few people are willing to put in the amount of time and effort you have done. -Steven Pro> 

Fun with Your Goldfish - Revisited
Hi!
<Hello again, Eitan!>
I have two Veil-Tails and two Shubunkins in an aquarium, <Still in the same size tank (8gUK)?  I cannot stress how much these guys need large volumes of water....>
I have heard that you can teach goldfish to follow your finger along the glass. Do you know of any methods that I would be able to teach them to do this?
<Indeed.  Just get them to start accepting food from your fingers during feeding time, and get them to the point where they'll take the food from you even when your fingers are mostly in the water.  Soon, they'll associate fingers with food, and will follow your fingers quite gladly, hoping to get some food out of 'em, even through the glass.>
In addition, I have made a (fish-safe) hoop for them to swim through but they seem to be ignoring it! Are there any ways to tempt them to go through it?!
<I hate to break it to you, but goldfish really aren't that bright.  In fact, they're pretty dumb.  If it doesn't involve food, they're not interested.>
Also, the Veil Tails sometimes swim to the top and it looks like they stick their mouth's out of the water and breath the air.
<Very likely they're just looking for food - but it could be due to a lack of oxygenation, as well.  If in doubt, add an air stone to the tank.>
I use a Fluval 1 plus filter
<Regardless of your tank size, this is vastly under-filtered for four goldfish.  As I said in our previous email, these are MESSY fish.  Simply said, they poop a lot.  Weekly water changes (or more often than that, even, in such a small tank with such a heavy bioload), infrequent feedings, and heavy filtration are a very serious must.  Goldfish really need to have 10-15 US gallons per fish to be easily maintained.>
and add a biological supplement and an Easy Balance product to neutralize the pH and reduce ammonia and nitrate levels every week, so I think the water should be clean.
<Adding chemicals without doing water changes really isn't a good idea.  When you do water changes, you should use a dechlorinator.  Goldfish are tolerant of a very large range of pH, so keeping it steady at whatever comes out of your tap is more important than trying to keep changing it to 7.0.  Please do very frequent water changes, vacuum the gravel when you do them, and get a much stronger filter - I prefer the hang-on-the-back types, myself, and I believe you'd find them very easy filters to use/maintain.  And most of all, I cannot stress how important it is to aim for a much larger aquarium soon.>
Thank you very much for your help and I am sorry to take up your time, Eitan, London
<No prob.  -Sabrina> 

Undergravel filtration, and funky water quality
Dear fish saviors,
<Good afternoon, Kaz - Sabrina here with you this lovely (rainy) lunch hour>
I've had a long and generally successful fishkeeping career but this year 2 of my goldfish died (at ages 19 and 17 years old).
<Oh my.  What a loss.  I'm so sorry to hear that.>
Only one sad survivor was left. I was away, the water went 'off' and they died :( Anyway, I worked hard to stabilize the tank with the Lone Black Moor (who had some scars, general poor condition, floating prob.s etc). He came good and after a few months I got LBM some friends - a small comet and a small fantail. My problems came back. The new guys were hungry all the time and I am guilty of giving in to their shameless begging.
<Just say 'no'! to fish obesity ;) >
Also I changed fish food on advice of LFS (sinking pellets, 34% protein) and am not sure if this has contributed to the instability.
<And what were you feeding with before?  Do your guys get any vegetable matter?>
LBM seemed happier and with more energy but developed two little white spotty bits on his head. These then seem to have gone away (I treated with fungal cure) but he has a new one further back on his head.
<Can you describe this in a bit further detail? Do the spots stick out? Or are they pits?  Are they fuzzy looking?  Waxy looking?  Look like cauliflower?  How big are they?>
After uncontrollable pH problems I checked with LFS and changed my filtration system (from charcoal and wool type filter to undergravel filtration).  
<Filtration isn't very directly related to pH swings (except as far as organic materials building up), I can't imagine why they told you to switch....>
But my question is (I know it’s very naive but..) how do I keep it clean? I have used the gravel siphon cleaner thingee and have done a 25% water change since I got the UGF two weeks ago but my plants are disintegrating.
<Argh.  UGF and live plants do *not* play well together, and there's not much of a way to make 'em work out.  Your only plant species is elodea, correct?  Perhaps try letting it float only, and see if it grows any better.>
We work in centimetres and litres here in Australia
<I wish we did, too!>
so I'm not sure of how many gallons but tank is 24inches x 12inches x 12inches. It is certainly not overcrowded, with the LBM and his two new little friends and the plants are (or were) Elodea.
<Okay, I do believe that's about 15 US gallons.  I usually recommend goldfish to be kept in tanks where they'll have 15-20 gallons per fish; they are hefty waste producers, and can foul the water very, very quickly.  Three goldfish in a 15g aquarium with an undergravel filter.... well, I can guess that in short order, you'll have some serious nitrate problems, possibly other water quality issues, even with the best maintenance possible.>
How do I clean the crud which I assume is collecting under the plastic UGF tray???
<Wonderful question.  I've heard using silicone air hose fed down the lift tube(s) and siphoning from there will help get some of the grunge out.>
Should I go easy on the gravel siphon thingee?
<Gosh, no.  Vacuum like a madman.  And slap that wet/dry filter back on the tank, too.  Then when you vacuum your gravel, let the filter cartridge stay in the filter so you've got plenty of bacterial life still around. Probably only vacuum about half the tank each time, as well.>
Did another partial change today and the fish are happy and starving but there are lots of floaty bits of plant matter still in there. Should I siphon these out?
<Yes, absolutely.  Dead, decaying plant matter will contribute to ammonia problems just as will fish waste.>
When I do water changes I use Cycle, ammonia treatment,
<Skip the ammonia remover, unless you're registering ammonia on your ammonia test - oho, I should mention/ask that you should be testing for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH - if you don't, please do get yourself a kit, so you can have a better grip on your water quality.  And far better than using ammonia remover schtuff is to simply do more frequent water changes.>
pH stabilizer,
<What's the pH out of your tap?  It's far more important to keep pH stable than to keep affecting it chemically; goldfish are very pH tolerant, so if your tap water’s anywhere close to decent, they'll be fine without pH altering chemicals.>
StressZyme, Tristart chlorine and chloramine remover. I let the water sit for 24hours, make sure the temp is the same etc.
<Wonderful.>
My main concern is that I found out from your site that UGF require lots of work but what type of work? Can you let me know what I need to do to keep my friends happy?
<Mostly the weekly vacuuming of gravel, jamming air hose down lift tubes.  UGFs must be cleaned thoroughly and religiously, lest all that waste building up in the gravel begin to poison the fish.  If it is in any way possible whatsoever, please, please try to get a larger tank for these fellas.  Believe me, they'll thank you for it.  Wishing you and your scaly pals well,  -Sabrina>
Cheers, Kaz 

Undergravel filtration, and funky water quality - take two
Thanks, Sabrina,
Will head off and get the testing kit today.
<Wonderful!  Try to get a liquid reagent type kit, the test 'strips' that you just dip in the water can be grossly inaccurate.>
I suppose what puzzles me is how come I could keep the same number of goldfish (and same type) in the same tank for 8 years (since the last fish arrived) with little problem - long living and happy fish - and now everything's going wrong??  
<Likely you going away and the water turning south started your problems.  These are really, really messy, waste producing fish, and in such a small tank, missing even one regular water change will result in a buildup of waste toxic enough to kill them.  Hence the major reason I usually recommend 15-20 US gallons per goldfish, there's SO much more room for error in a larger tank.>
The white spots on the remaining old fish are small and very white, about large pinhead size, they seem to stick out and after a few days just fade to nothing.
<This sounds like either Lymphocystis or fish pox, both of which can be found in goldfish from time to time.  Lymphocystis is kinda cauliflower-like in appearance, whereas fish pox looks rather waxy.  Both are viral infections, and there is no treatment.  Fortunately, neither are often fatal.  Just maintain the best water quality you can, with regular water changes and testing, and he should be fine.>
Apart from plants in the tank I don't give them any veggies - should I?  Thanks!  Kaz
<Couldn't hurt.  Mine adore unsalted canned peas (rinse, and squeeze the inside of the pea out of the shell).  Blanched zucchini is another good one.  Lots of goodies out there for them, but just the Elodea will do, if necessary.  Best wishes to you,  -Sabrina> 

Goldfish, meet Filter.
Hey
A couple of days ago my fantail goldfish was partially sucked up in the filter (that filter was replaced so the incident would not happen to the other fish in the tank).  
<Ouch!>
A lot of his fins were sucked off and only the ridges are left of the tail, the small "threadlike" things that run through the tail and hold the webbing I think.  
<The 'rays', yes.>
He's been isolated and seems to be doing better, I know his tail will grow back but I'm not sure how long I need to keep him in isolation (I don't want the others to pick on him while he's still trying to recover).  
<Until he is back to normal, or nearly so, I would keep him separate, for sure.>
By reading some of the FAQs I learned that I should put in some medication to help him heal but I'm not sure what it is or how much.  
<I have found Kanamycin and/or Nitrofurazone to be quite useful in treating fin rot, and preventing/eliminating bacterial infection.  Aquatronics manufactures these as "Kanacyn" (Kanamycin sulfate) and "Spectrogram" (Nitrofurazone/Kanamycin combo).>
Also, I am at college and have to go home soon, I can't leave the fish in my dorm because there is no one to check in on them and all sorts of maintenance work has to be done to the room over the month long break, so I need to take them home with me.  What is the best way to transport all of them and especially the weak one?  Its a four and half hour drive, and I'm not quite sure the way to give them the most stress free ride.  
<I have transported fish long-distance (four days' travel, at the longest) using Styrofoam crates lined with clean, unscented, watertight trash bags, filled partway with aquarium water (and treated tapwater as necessary), and aerated with battery-operated aerators.  For a (comparably) short drive such as yours, you could probably get by quite well with a large bucket with a battery-operated aerator.  A five gallon bucket filled halfway would do nicely; keep it covered so it'll be dark for the fish.  The sick fish, if still undergoing treatment, should be transported in a separate container.  Try to avoid bumps, don't drive like a maniac, etc., etc., and always wear your seatbelt ;) >
Appreciate your advice,  Jessie Howard
<Hope all goes well,  -Sabrina> 

Keeps Killing Biological Filter
I have a ten gallon tank containing three average size goldfish, one large goldfish and an average black moor. For the past several weeks I've found that they've been gasping for air at the top of the tank. Several times, the goldfish have developed red marks on their faces. Each time I've done either a partial or total water change and cleaned the sides of the tank. Afterwards, the gasping stops for two to three days and then continues with a transparent brown film on the sides of the tank and gravel. I've tried parasite treatment, ick treatment, algae treatment and anything else I've come by. Any advice at all would be appreciated. I can't stand seeing my fish like this.
< Check the nitrates. Your filter should be turning the water over at least 3 times an hour. Goldfish in general are pretty messy so you may need more, especially in a ten gallon tank. I suspect that the biological filter is having a tough time keeping up and is slowly converting the ammonia to nitrites. A slow conversion may have led to elevated levels of ammonia and have started burning the gills, thus the red on the face. I would recommend a filter that you can easily service, make sure there is no left over food after every feeding. and to check the nitrates so you can establish a regular water changing schedule and not have to wait until the fish are so stressed that they are gathering at the surface of the water.-Chuck>