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FAQs on Callichthyid Catfish Selection Related Articles: Callichthyid Catfishes, Summer
loving: cats in the garden, kittens in the kitchen by Neale Monks,
Related Catfish FAQs: Callichthyids
1, Callichthyids
2, Callichthyid Identification,
Callichthyid Behavior,
Callichthyid Compatibility,
Callichthyid Systems,
Callichthyid Feeding,
Callichthyid Disease,
Callichthyid Reproduction, Catfish: Identification,
Behavior, Compatibility,
Selection, Systems,
Feeding, Disease,
Reproduction,
Almost all Callichthyids, Corydoras are social animals...
Must be kept in groupings to be happy, healthy. |

A golden albino Corydoras aeneus at the 08 Interzoo.
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6 Cory Cats, comp./sel.
4/13/08
Hello WWM crew,
Thank you for your wonderful site and service to the community.
We have a "community" 125 gallon tank working fine.
Our tank has a total of 9 Corys: 2 albinos, 5 bronze, 1 peppered, 1 c. metae,
along with the usual swords, mollies, and platys.
Specific question on the usual advice to have 6 or more Cory cats. I use six as
an example only.
Please clarify whether this means they must all six be the same type (say, 6
emerald or 6 peppered); or does it mean 6 of any type Cory, as we have?
<While a few Corydoras species will mix in the wild, for all practical purposes
they should all be treated as different things when it comes to forming schools.
So six bronze Corydoras, six peppered Corydoras, and so on. While they may all
look the same to us, to one another they are completely different things. The
sole exception is the Albino Corydoras, which is (usually) Corydoras paleatus,
i.e., the peppered Corydoras though sometimes it is alternatively the bronze
Corydoras, Corydoras aeneus.>
We ask because none of the Corys (including the 5 emerald cats) hang out
together as a "shoal" like the photos on www sites.
<Precisely so. You need a reasonable number, generally six or more.>
Ours are all independent critters. Is this normal or is it due to our large tank
(5' long, 18" wide) ?
<Bit of both. Corydoras don't normally swim as a single group all the time. They
often cleave off into subgroups, often a couple of males escorting a mature
female. Mine do this all the time, and periodically you'll find eggs laid on the
glass as evidence. Remove the eggs, rear the fry (comparatively easy) and add
them to your group of Corydoras!>
One observation is that the new (this week) C. metae immediately paired off with
the 1 peppered Cory; but neither of these "hang" with the albinos or emeralds,
and the albinos do not associate much with the emeralds. Does this mean we have
stocked wrongly?
<"Wrong" is perhaps too strong a word, but perhaps not "ideally". It's a lot of
fun to watch Corydoras doing the social thing, and if you feel you have space in
your community tank, I'd heartily recommend bumping up the numbers. In 125
gallons, you could easily keep ten of each and not have problems.>
We want to do the right thing by these very nice fish.
<Indeed so!>
Many thanks,
Rosemary
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: 6 Cory Cats
04/14/2008
Neal, brilliant reply in concise terms. Off to the LFS Monday for
some albino and bronze Corys!
Many, many thanks!
Rosemary
<Happy to help. In theory at least, Peppered and Albino catfish should
school together; if they don't, then the chances are you have Albino
Bronze catfish rather than the more common Albino Peppered catfish.
Enjoy your fishkeeping! Cheers, Neale.> |
Cory Help... sel., hlth.
2/1/08
Hi! I have recently bought one albino Cory for my 20 gallon aquarium. Along
side the Cory in the tank are 3 marble mollies, a balloon molly, 2 white fin
tetras, and a zebra tetra.
<No such thing as a "zebra tetra" -- do you mean a Zebra Danio? Small minnow
with longitudinal gold and purple stripes.>
My problem is my Cory is acting extremely weird. He swims up and down radically
and never stays in one spot too long. Sometimes he just frantically swims around
and around in the aquarium. I feed him using fish flakes and sinking pellets.
But it seems as though he doesn't eat this food. I have had him for 4 days now.
Could he be acting strange due to the presence of the other fish? Or is there
something else that could be a contributing factor to this?
<He's lonely, scared, and miserable -- and likely wondering why he was bought by
someone who doesn't research their fish first, usually an omen of doom for
unfortunate fish. Corydoras are *schooling* fish, and have to be kept in groups.
Four is the minimum really, and you need six or more to see them at their best.
So go to your retailer and buy some more. Albino Corydoras are usually Corydoras
paleatus, so you can mix them with regular Corydoras paleatus (known as
"peppered Corydoras" in the trade).>
Sincerely,
Michael
<Cheers, Neale.> <<Well done Neale. RMF>>
Corydoras... sel.
10/27/07
I'm trying to decide how many Corydoras (trilineatus) I could put in a 55
gallon tank. It will have only a 6" passive female Severum in there besides the
Corydoras. The Severum has been living with 6 Cory Cats for quite some time now
and they do excellent together in a 45 gal tank. I really want more Cory's (such
gentle & sweet little fish!). I do daily partial water changes and the 55 gal
will have 2 Emperor 400 Bio-wheels on it, my water quality is great.
Would I be over-crowding 'space-wise' if I had a total of 20 Corydoras in this
55 gal along with the Severum? I value the opinion of all your volunteers very
much but am scared enough of crowding them that I'd love to have your opinion.
Thank you so much for your time and efforts.
Mitzi
<Mitzi, what you propose should be fine. The thing to do is add them a batch at
a time though, so the filter can adjust. Maybe 5 at each go, wait a few days,
and then add 5 more. While you're waiting, check the nitrite level to make sure
the filter has adjusted, and if necessary, wait for nitrite to reach zero before
adding any more. Realistically though, mature filters adjust to extra fish
within a day or two. You also want to optimise each filter; i.e., remove
pointless stuff like carbon and zeolite, and make sure you're using the best
quality biological media available. One problem you will have is feeding this
number of catfish without the tank getting over-polluted. Check the nitrate
level every week or so for the first month or two, so get an idea of how quickly
the nitrate level rises and how often you need to do water changes. While
Corydoras are fairly indifferent to nitrate, Severums, like all other cichlids,
are very sensitive to nitrate over the long term, developing things like
Hole-in-the-Head. Good luck, Neale>
Re: Corydoras, sel. –
10/28/07
Neale,
<Mitzi,>
Thank you for your opinion and (as always!) good suggestions. I'll do as you
suggested. One of the Emperor 400 Bio-wheels is already cycled so that should
help a lot.
<Indeed. A mature filter will mature an immature one connected to the tank very
quickly, especially if you divide out the mature filter media between the two of
them.>
It's funny you mentioned carbon as being "pointless". Carbon in filters is one
of my personal 'pet peeves' and I never use it. I slit the blue 'carbon'
cartridges that come with the filters and fill them with those little rough
stones they sell for filter media.
<Sounds ideal. The cartridges are basically a marketing ploy, like razor blades,
to make you spend more for something cheap purely because it "fits" the device
you have. In reality, practically any filter can be fiddled around with to
accept generic media, be it ceramic hoops, filter floss, crushed coral or
whatever.>
My water stays crystal clear.
<Water quality has very little to do with carbon. Water changes will dilute the
organic acids that stain the water, while water changes and careful siphoning
will remove solid wastes and silt. No fuss, no muss. Water changes really are
the KEY to fishkeeping, hence my argument that fiddling about with softened
water and the like if you live in a hard water area is pointless if it means you
can't afford to do large, regular water changes.>
It's so much easier to cycle a new tank by just taking a cartridges out of one
of the filters on a cycled tank and putting it in the new one.
<Indeed. It's called "cloning a filter" and works very well. Once you have one
mature aquarium, you never need to cycle any of the new ones you buy
afterwards.>
I've been feeding the current Corydoras those sinking carnivore pellets plus
they eat the crayfish chunks, bloodworms and the variety of food the Severum
gets. I couldn't ever get the Severum to eat her 'greens' until I put the Corys
in there. Since then she shoots right over there and snatches veggies up like
she thinks the Corys are going to eat it :-)
<Sounds like typical Cichlid behaviour. Cichlids are like children: they want
whatever is on someone else's plate, on the assumption it's better than what
they have on theirs! I think its this sort of quirky behaviour than makes
cichlids so popular with aquarists.>
The Cory's will pick at veggies every once in awhile but I seriously doubt the
Severum has anything to worry about.
<Corydoras, in the wild at least, actually eat substantial amounts of algae and
decaying vegetation. It's certainly a good idea to use vegetarian flake and
pellets periodically. Both the Cories and the Severum will benefit from this.>
Thank you! I'll be looking forward to my little "Cory Community".
Mitzi
<Sounds good. Enjoy. Neale>
My poor catfish!! Corydoras
dis., use 8/22/07
Good morning, we are fairly new aquarium owners, we have 2 gravel cleaner
Corydoras and one of them has a very swollen belly, we thought it might be
pregnant but today it is finding it very difficult to swim and keeps going to
the surface. Sometimes it falls back down to the bottom like its dead but then
will swim back up. Not keeping it's balance very well. The other one looks fine
and is sat on the bottom as normal. Please could you give me some advice on what
to do. I can't seem to get a clear enough picture but will try if you really
need one. They are a grey colour with a pinkish tone, about 2 inches long.
Thank you so much
Sharon
<Hello Sharon. Corydoras aren't "gravel cleaners" -- that's your job. Indeed,
forcing catfish of any kind to root about dirty gravel causes infections to set
in, typically associated with eroded barbels (whiskers) and, in serious cases,
reddish sores on the belly. A photograph will help, but my assumption without
one is that your catfish are suffering from poor water quality. In a new
aquarium the ammonia and nitrite levels quickly reach toxic levels. Catfish will
try and mitigate the problems by gulping air, which is the dash to the surface
your catfish are doing, but eventually the ammonia and nitrite cause damage to
the fish, which is the odd behaviour. Even in the short term, prolonged exposure
to nitrite and ammonia will kill them. Using your test kits (which I hope you
have!) ensure the ammonia is 0 and the nitrite is 0. If this is not the case, do
a 50% water change. Repeat the water test and, if required, 50% water change
every single day until you get 0 ammonia and nitrite for two or three days on
the trot. At that point, you can scale things back to 50% water changes per
week. Cheers, Neale>
Re: my poor catfish!!
8/22/07
Thanks for the reply, the poorly one has got a red sore on his belly. The
other one is fine, sorry about the gravel cleaner thing, that's what we were
told at the shop we bought them in and we certainly don't force them to feed
from the bottom and we clean the gravel with a suction thing (haven't quite got
the hang of that task properly yet!!) Can't get a decent photo as he is laying
on his back at the back of the tank but is still moving. Water test levels are
as follows ammonia and nitrite are at 0ppm ph levels are slightly high at 7.4
and nitrate is in between 0 and 5 ppm. Tank is about 3 months old now and we
have a variety of fish including mollies, tetras, a betta, Plecos, silver shark,
clown loaches and one of our guppies has just given birth to 18 fry ( which are
in a nursery tank) all other fish are fine we have only lost two Tetras (one
zebra tailed and one gold) since we started.
Thanks Sharon
<Water chemistry/quality sounds fine. pH 7.4 is perfect for Corydoras. Your
selection of fish is a bit random though, and likely to cause problems in the
long term. I personally don't like keeping Corydoras in tanks with gravel; they
are much happier in tanks with sand. But clean gravel shouldn't cause Corydoras
to die. Do check the water quality once or twice more today. Ammonia and nitrite
can "spike" after feeding, while dropping down to zero a few hours later. Also
check the other fish for signs of problems. If they're all healthy, I'd be
tempted to just sit back for a month and not add anything new to the aquarium.
Leave things be. Only afterwards, once you're happy the sick Corydoras was "just
one of those things" consider adding more fish. Cheers, Neale>
Re: my poor catfish!!
8/22/07
Hi again, I think the poor little thing has finally given up the ghost and
has passed away, i have read these are social fish so should i go and get
another partner in case the one left gets lonely!! Any other advice would be
greatly received.
Thanks again for all you help so far
Sharon
<Corydoras do indeed need to be kept in groups, but I personally wouldn't add
anything else to your tank for another month. Let things stabilise, and get a
sense of how the tank is working out (or not, as the case may be). Ultimately,
keep at least four Corydoras, preferably six. Ideally all one species, but they
do often mix quite well, so you could get three of one kind and three of
another. Cheers, Neale>
Unsure of fish choices - 4/7/07
Hey everyone!
<Hello!>
I love the website and it has been very beneficial in helping me set up my 45
gallon tank... thanks for all the info! I have a few questions I was hoping you
could answer for me.
<Okay...>
First off, I understand the importance of a quarantine tank but does it have to
be a tank or can it just be a bowl?
<No; really. A quarantine tank has to be a reasonably healthy environment. If it
makes the fish more stressed and more sickly, it isn't really doing its job.>
See, I'm back to college and inherited the tank after my grandparents moved
(it's a fairly new tank) and can't really afford to go out and purchase a large
tank. Would a quarantine bowl be sufficient or no?
<Fair enough. Lots of people are stuck with using just one tank. It's not
optimal, but its workable. Just choose stock carefully, don't take risks, look
out for the first signs of sickness or aggression, and be prepared to implement
a "Plan B" if things go wrong, i.e., have some anti-whitespot remedy to hand,
and check with your retailer if you can return aggressive fish.>
Secondly...
<Yes...?>
My tank has been running for a few weeks now and I have slowly been adding fish.
<Define "few weeks" and define "slowly".>
Currently, I have 5 zebra danios and 4 sunburst Mickey mouse platys.
<A pretty safe combo.>
I would like to add more but am unsure about what fish to add.
<I tend to go with one inch (or centimetre, if you're metric) of fishes that
live at the top to every two inches of midwater swimmers to every one inch of
bottom dwellers. This gets a nice balance of activity at all levels of the tank
without making things to crowded. In this case, I'd recommend Corydoras catfish
as being about the right size to fit in nicely with your fish as well as being
easy to obtain and coming in a variety of colours. Peppered and bronze Corydoras
are "old reliables", but you might go with something a little more elite like
Panda Corydoras or Leopard Corydoras if funds allow. There's a nice intro here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/callichthyids.htm and you will find
any number of books and web sites about "Corys" if you look for them. Corydoras
vary in ease of maintenance, but most are pretty robust and all are peaceful and
happy to eat dried foods. Some species will spawn in aquaria, and if you remove
the eggs and place in another tank (or even a breeding net) rearing the fry
isn't all that hard but extremely rewarding. Baby catfish -- "kittens" -- are
truly adorable. Keep in groups, ideally at least 3, but preferably six or more.
They don't like deep tanks: no more than 30 cm/12", because they are
air-breathers and cannot swim up too high. Keep the sand/gravel clean because
dirty conditions at the bottom of the tank can cause problems such as eroding
whiskers. One last thing: contrary to popular belief, these fish won't live on
leftovers, they need their own food. Ask your retailer for catfish food, and use
according to the label.>
It seems like every fish comes with a problem... either too aggressive or too
high reproductive rates. I don't want to end up with a tank full of 60+ guppies!
What fish should I purchase from here?
<Corydoras are about as problem-free as any aquarium fish can be. Small (most
are around 4-6 cm in length), utterly benign towards other fishes, and generally
resistant to disease, they even wink at you! Personally, I'd recommend peppered
Corydoras if you've never kept catfish before. Peppers are usually cheap and
easy to find, and probably the most forgiving of all Corydoras in terms of water
quality and other problems.>
-Victoria
<Cheers, Neale>
Looking For Pygmy Corys 6/27/06
Hello crew, Where can one obtain a pygmy Cory in America? The links I have
found are only in the UK. Thanks in advance, Lisa S. Immarco
<They come in to the US. I saw some at a wholesaler a few weeks ago. They are
very inexpensive and so not too many breeders work with them. Check out
Aquabid.com or try the chatroom at planetcatfish.com.-Chuck>
Cycling, timing, and Endler's
Dear WWMites,
<<Kewl. I'm an official Mite!!>>
Well, thanks to the rest of your site (and I thought I'd read nearly everything
before), I've answered my own questions. Wow, y'all have a lot of stuff for us
to read! I backed out to the home page and found more links to more info a bit
farther down. Unfortunately, the intense absorption of so much info knocked
most of the third grade out of my head to make room. Ah, well, third grade was
a bust anyway... To recap:
We'll get the Otos much later in the process rather than earlier, and our
earlier decision on five (one per ten gallons) is apparently a good
population. Also, my bride and I decided we're going to replace several of the
silk plants with live plants, both for the beauty and the Otos.
<<Excellent idea :)>>
We'll stick with making larger batches of tweaked water, and go get a cheapy air
pump to aerate it (at least overnight) before we use it. We're also talking
about increasing the water changes to 20% a week rather than every two weeks,
especially after reading about the sensitivity of Otos and Corys to nasties in
the water.
<<It would be a good idea to vacuum your substrate regularly, Corys are prone to
bacterial infections of the barbels. Nasty stuff can accumulate in gravel beds,
and Corys are always sticking their noses into...it. :P>>
We're going to have to decide which Corydoras to get, since they prefer being
with their own. I'd had the impression that it wouldn't quite do to mix based
on genus rather than species. (Now if I can just convince my wife to go with
the paleatus...)
<<My favorite Corys are melanistius melanistius and adolfoi. You can check out
pics of any species of Cory cat at www.planetcatfish.com/ Maybe you will both
see something inspiring there that you agree on :)>>
As I said in an earlier message, the little speed demon is, indeed, an Endler's. He's started getting a stronger hint of green on his caudal fin, and
a more definite green tinge on his rear half. We're looking forward to getting
a group of them after New Year's.
<<Nice fish. Easy to keep and not a royal pain like so many livebearers can
be...Belonesox spring to mind.>>
Again, thanks for the wonderful site, and I hope I haven't chewed up too much of
your time.
Glen
<<You are most welcome. Happy Fishing. LOL.
-Gwen>>
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