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Arowana and Silver dollars in a big planted tank, sys. 2/29/08
Hi, I have a question that has many different angles to be looked at. I have been reading your website for the past 2 or 3 years and have scoured about 50% of the freshwater info as I have found it invaluable. First off, I have a pretty big L shaped aquarium, 8 ft long, 45 degree angle of 4 feet, then another 45 degree angle of 8 feet with the tank being 2 feet deep and 2.5 feet tall acrylic tank (about 900 gallons +/- 50 from evaporation etc.). Ammonia and nitrites are of course zero, nitrates are between 20 and 40ppm (attributed to nitrate factory type trickle Bioball sump), pH at a steady 6.8 attributed to the large pieces of driftwood I have in their and their tannin releasing ways, hardness is at 80ppm. Temperature ranges from 74 to 76F in the mid to upper levels, 72-75F in the lower levels, due to lighting I guess. Filtration turns the tank over about 5-6 times an hour, though with cloggy filters, maybe only 3 times an hour.
<Does sound like you need to upgrade the filtration a bit; in all honesty jumbo fish need all the turnover you can get. I'd be looking at 6x turnover minimum, and likely 8-10. If water quality is basically sound, you can perhaps get away with just adding a powerhead or two into the tank to keep the circulation of the water even.>
It currently houses a foot long silver Arowana and a school of 11 silver dollars (the smaller 5-6" ones, not the red hooks). I also have 4 fairly young (only 1 foot tall, about 20 leaves) Amazon swords planted in 2 inches of gravel, and a whole bunch of Anacharis that's growing like a weed (for the silver dollars munching pleasures) though it is growing much faster than the fish are eating them.
<Sounds great!>
I also have some powerful full spectrum lighting across the two 8 foot lengths of the tank, nothing in the middle of the L. My more concerning question, or more likely, situation, is that my Arowana (I've had it since it was around 5") recently started taking dives at my silver dollars as they swim on their merry way beneath him. Is this a show of territoriality or is he trying to eat the silver dollars or both?
<Either. Both. Arowanas are territorial and object to anything in "their" zone of operations. This varies with species, and Silver Arowanas are very much at the mild end compared with, say, Scleropages jardini. But on the other hand that doesn't make them friendly community fish! If the Arowana is sufficiently big, it may be trying to eat them, or at least "sample" them to see if they're edible. A 6" Silver Dollar is borderline when it comes to safety with an adult Arowana. Some people have mixed them fine, I know; but look at how big the mouth of an Arowana can get! I wouldn't be 100% comfortable with this combo.>
The silver dollars are way faster than him though so I have not yet scene what happens when he catches them. He is usually just silently sitting beneath a carpet of Anacharis during the day and only moves when fed (Hikari Arowana pellets plus weekly beef heart, plus whatever flakes, crumbles, bloodworms I feed the silver dollars) or when the lights are off. Also, I read that Arowanas generally leisurely patrol the aquarium all day and I figured now that I finally built my uber aquarium (oh that's right, self made... 20% of the retailers price... plus several cases of beer and pizza for friends who assisted in heavy lifting.
<Ha!>
Is it possible that my lights are too bright and the Arowana doesn't feel safe or its hurting his eyes, though he did just swim around normally for about a month until he started to "hide"? They are power compact fluorescents, 525 watts per light fixture, 4 total fixtures. This is a major concern to me as I have been keeping fish for the better part of a decade wanting an Arowana but refusing to get one until I could house it properly and now he just sits there. At night I have moonlighting and he does then move around quite a bit, this is why I suspect the lighting, but I never thought they were nocturnal... more diurnal from what I read.
<Difficult to say on this one. Arowanas are noted for being photophobic, though most fish prefer shade to bright light. Do all the lights come on at the same time? Sometimes fish get alarmed by that, and having the lights come on across an hour makes a big difference. It does sound like he doesn't like the light. Is adding an understory of plastic plants (there are some great 3' plastic plants available now) an option? Something that could drape across the surface and cast some more shade? I suppose the experiment would be to unplug one light fixture for a day or two, and see if the Arowana prefers that end of the tank.>
My next question has to do with the silver dollars and them seeming to enjoy eating the Amazon swords more so than the anarachis. Is there some other large show plant that does well under high lighting that the silver dollars wont want to eat?
<I'd perhaps look at Crinum spp., e.g., C. calamistratum, as these do seem to be left alone by herbivores. They're big and generally hardy. Java fern will do great under bright light, though it does tend to become an algae magnet. Anubias even more so.>
Also, my swords aren't exactly growing as well as they had in past tanks with 4-5 inches of gravel. Does the gravel depth make that much of a difference?
<Yes; also the quality/composition of the substrate.>
I have something like a thousand Malaysian trumpet snails aerating the gravel and what not but am concerned that if I add more, the snails just wont be able to irrigate and aerate all that gravel, and the last thing I want is some anaerobic environment unreachable by plant roots or snail burrowing releasing poisonous hydrogen sulfide and the likes into my tank, plus stinking up my fish room.
<Just doesn't happen. The "anaerobic decay" thing is largely a myth. Happens naturally in ponds and in marine tanks (inside living rock) and no-one fusses. So by all means ramp up the depth of substrate to what worked before. Do also check first that the substrate is adequate though -- Amazon swords want a nice rich soil or laterite enriched substrate, and plain washed gravel just won't work for them.>
Should I consider ditching the silver dollars for a school of tinfoil barbs? They don't eat plants at all do they?
<Tinfoil Barbs can, will eat plants.>
And lastly, as you may have guessed it, I want to add more fish to this tank as it seems fairly empty... Im thinking black ghost knife?
<In theory fine, but you'll be hard pressed finding an adult large enough for this community. Mostly you only see baby Apteronotus for sale.>
I first filled up the tank about 8 months ago, filling it with something like 100 Malaysian trumpet snails and about 20 mystery snails for my tank cycling. I over fed the snails for 3 months in order to obtain the current population explosion of snails I now have,
<Consider adding a group of Clown Loaches or thorny catfishes (Doradidae). These will eat the snails, if sufficiently hungry.>
at the end of month one I added the sword plants, then I added the silver dollars at the end of month 3, all at about the size of, well, silver dollars. They mostly hid in the center decor castles of my tank for the first two weeks but then began to sprint (if you will) from one end of the tank to the center and back (they seemed to never travel into the leftward portion). After having them in there for 2 months, they had grown to about 3" in diameter each and I added my Arowana at 5". After only another 3 months the Arowana (from what I could tell) doubled in size, which I attributed to it having so much space to swim.
<Or simply good maintenance. Arowanas grow quickly if kept well.>
Now I added the anarachis about 2 weeks after the Arowana was added and it was generally ignored by all but a couple of snails. Then a month ago (beginning of month 7) is when the Arowana began to just sit under the anarachis. So yeah, back to the black ghost knife... I want to buy two of these guys (i figure the tanks big enough) and I put two PVC condos with 15 pipes of 2" diameter and 1' length in there, one in each 8' portion. Should I be concerned about the Arowana eating them as I often find the knife fish around 4-5 inches in length max, and it will be some time before they grow to their 2' potential where the Arowana wont (hopefully) eat them. Are the black ghosts fast enough to evade the Arowana if pursued?
<No; sooner or later, if they're small enough to swallow, they'll be eaten. The Arowana only has to get lucky once!>
And for the record, despite clown knives growing huge and not being swallowable by my Arowana, they will probably eat my silver dollars and knock over my plants, and just grow too big for my taste, so that options out.

Well, that's all for now. I literally read all over the web for months and abstained from just writing you guys since I know how annoying it can be to be asked simple questions that have their answers everywhere... but I just cannot find anything like this Arowana diving at silver dollars thing while not swimming anywhere else. I am a student of the sciences, my job being that of a biochemist, therefore I was cocky, stubborn, and reluctant to ask for help (a character flaw repeatedly pointed out by many over the years)... but there are just some things you cannot learn in books. I'll likely have another question or comment in a couple of months after the knife fish are added... if they are compatible. Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide.
With Best Regards,
Matt
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Arowana and Silver dollars in a big planted tank (RMF, please comment) 2/29/08
Well It looks like Im going to be upgrading my sump pumps using some pond pumps to get that water flowing up to the 10 times over level. I currently have four overflow filters going into four 55 gallon tanks... I guess I will just have 4 extra pumps to sell on aquabid.com as I replace them with the pond pumps. The pumps I have looked at are reporting 1800 gallons an hour (Danner Supreme Mag Drive Aquatic pumps, I currently own the 1200 gph pumps)... am I going to need larger sumps or will this push through the 55 gallon tanks just fine?
<No idea; RMF, any thoughts?><<I would definitely be reading, making careful choices here... There is much to be saved in the way of electrical cost, pump noise, waste heat, service life, by making good decisions re pumps... The Sequence series/Baldor motored lines are some faves for the size, application here. Other fractional horsepower pumps are ably reviewed here on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/pumpselmar.htm
and the linked files above. RMF>>
This company also sells a 5000, specifically designed for large ponds and waterfall displays which reports 5000 an hour. Is that overkill or should I add one or two of those in too? I guess two 1800 and two 5000 gives me 13600 gallons an hour claiming about 15 times an hour for the whole tank... realistically maybe 11-12 times an hour turnover?
<Probably overkill. 8-10 times turnover should be adequate.>
As for the silver dollars not being fully compatible, I will look into giving them a new home. I have just been keeping silver dollars for 7 years now and figured I was pretty good at it. My last batch of 7 didn't die, with the oldest being 5 years old starting in a 55 gallon and moving up to a 120 gallon for the remainder. I just gave them to the LFS before I moved halfway across the country for the job that would allow me to have such a lavish aquarium. What other fish come to mind, that would be an attractive school of 15-20, that could be raised in one 8 foot section (separated by a divider) until large enough to not be eaten by the Arowana? Im thinking Bala sharks?
<A good choice. But also Semaprochilodus taeniurus look amazing in large groups, and are nice Amazonian fish.>
I read they get to 12-15" and from my limited experience, are very fast.
<Oh yes.>
Do they eat plants because I cannot find info saying that they do, but then again, I was wrong about the tinfoil barbs.
<Balantiocheilos melanopterus generally ignores plants. It eats green algae and invertebrates, and may nibble on tender shoots, but that's about it.>
Maybe 6 months separated, grown to 7-8 inches then set to survive with the Arowana?
<You may also be able to get adults via Fish Forums, fish clubs, etc. Lots of people buy them, and then have to rehome them when they get too big.>
Are their any other fish you could recommend as I have limited experience with large schooling fish.
<There are a lot of nice big barbs. Severums would also look quite nice, and occupy the midwater. They're territorial when spawning, but your tank is big enough that shouldn't be a problem. What about catfish? Sorubim lima is a nice big (45 cm/18") schooling catfish. It's very peaceful, pretty, and quite easy to obtain. It famously likes to swim vertically leaning against plants and rocks, so is definitely fun.>
As for the lighting, the timer IS set to go on all at once come 10am and turn off at 8pm. Some sunlight does come through the one window and glass door to wake the fish up, but I guess that is nothing compared to a full 2000+ watts blazing into their eyes all at once. I can turn on the actinics at 10 am, then 2 of the other full spectrums on at 11, and the rest at 12... and then shut them off in the same manner (off to Home depot again for more electric timers). I assume this will still be ample light for the anarachis and Amazon swords.
<Should be. Try it, and see what happens!>
And I do have two 3 foot plastic plants draping across the top of my tank which cover an area of maybe 4-5 square feet each. They are located in between the Amazon swords as to not rob them of light. I don't really want to put much more over the plants, but there are still many other places in the tank to add another 4 to 5 of those 3 footers without disrupting light to the live plants. I will give them a try since they are cheap and fairly realistic looking. As for the other plants, I do have an Anubias growing on a piece of driftwood, though the plant is 3 years old, started as 3 leaves, has maybe 30 now, and has only moved about 1 foot across the driftwood (3 foot long driftwood). It used to be house with a Pleco so perhaps his constant sucking of the driftwood would constantly cull the Anubias... or maybe the thick film of algae growing on its leaves is inhibiting it?
<I've tried Anubias with my Panaque, and it gets turned into a Swiss Cheese Plant, so I agree with you here!>
Ill try out the C. calamistratum when I find it. If nothing else the LFS can order it for me.
<Mail order plant distributors abound, and this is a fairly common species, at least here in the UK.>
I do have a Sailfin Pleco in there too. He's only about 8 inches long though so he is having a problems stopping all the algae as of yet, though I have faith in him (or her, I cant tell yet).
<Once they mature they aren't really algae eaters, so don't hold too much store by this. Plecs generally are omnivores, and algae is only a part of their diet.>
As for my substrate, it is just painted black artificial gravel. I add trace minerals for the plants, but I guess that's just not gonna cut it.
<Indeed.>
It will take some time to clean all 200+ lbs of gravel out, but I would say in half a years time I should have 4 inches of laterite enriched substrate in there.
<Can't begin to tell you how much I sympathise! Anyone who has grown aquarium plants (or tried, at least) will have been through the mill of changing substrates.>
I guess I wont be getting the black ghost knife anytime soon, if ever, aw well.
<Again, look out for "second hand" specimens.>
Maybe I'll get some water in my 120 and raise him in there until he's big enough for the show tank.
<Quite.>
And perhaps I misspoke about the snails as a pest, as I want them in their. I have never been able to keep a tank as clean as I do when I have snails in their.

I once had a tank with 4 yoyo Loaches in there that cleaned out the snail population, there was a gradual decline in water quality, and an increase in detritus and algae that I fought for a year... I removed the loaches to the LFS and my tank recovered to crystal clarity in 3 months time.
<Not impossible.>
Therefore, largely based on this single experience ( I know, that's poor scientific form) I like to always have snails. And despite the appearance of (now about 100 mystery snails) snails crawling all over my tank with about 1 snail on every 4 square feet of glass (or I guess acrylic), I find it more peaceful and artful than an eyesore.
<Indeed.>
It looks to me as though your experience in the trade has done it again. Thank you very much for your assistance.
Matt
<Good luck, Neale.>

Baby silver Arowana constantly terrified? 2/16/08
Hello,
I am writing to you out of concern for my silver Arowana. Guess I should start with the details:
1 baby silver Arowana, 4 inches long (nose to tail-tip) 1 inch "tall"
Tank size: 55 gallons (long) currently, once he gets larger he will be moved to a 200 gallon
Tank mate: 1 Siamese algae eater, 1.5 inches long (nose to tail-tip)
Temp.: 75 - 80F
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: usually <10
I add a bit of aquarium salt (the marine salt variety, not the cheap boxed stuff at Wal-Mart) with each water change (10-20% at the end of each week)
<Arowanas don't need salt, and in fact few species naturally occur in brackish water. So unless you have some overwhelming reason to add salt, I'd tend to skip this.>
I have had my Arowana for about a month and a half (The tank used to contain gouramis and has been fully cycled for a year.) About a week ago, when I woke up, I found my Arowana, Percival, darting frantically against the side of the tank, like he was trying to swim through the glass. The tank has a hood, of course, and a light which I don't really use at all (sunlight during the day, no light at night.) He looked absolutely terrified, but he was not "gasping" or breathing any faster than normal. He kept swimming at the glass, darting up and down, trying to get "through." He has not stopped since that morning a week ago. He darts up and down the same side of the tank, wearing himself out.
Sometimes he rests on the gravel at the bottom of the tank, hiding in his fake plants. This is very scary to see, since Arowanas are supposed to glide gracefully at the surface. Since his snout has been rubbing against the glass for so long, he's got a white "scab" built up. It's not a fungal infection, since it's not strand-like or fuzzy. It only appears on his snout where he has been rubbing it against the tank. I am adding the aquarium salt and a little Melafix to hopefully prevent any infection, though the wound isn't open.
<Not a big fan of Melafix, though perhaps useful enough as a preventative. If the wound does go bad, do turn to a "proper" medication.>
What could be causing this behavior? He swims like he's terrified, like something is chasing him. I don't know what to do for him, I've tried covering the tank for a day to block out any light, but this hasn't helped. I tried to do more frequent water changes, but he only becomes more terrified and I'm afraid he'll have a heart attack or knock himself unconscious! I hate to see my once majestic baby so utterly frantic for no apparent reason. Please help, and thank you so much for your time.
-Amber
<There are two likely issues. The first is the size of the tank. Arowanas are open water fish, and they can be easily spooked in small tanks. They will often try to jump, and in doing so, damage their snouts, which is likely the cause of the physical damage you're seeing. The second issue could be the placement of the tank. Things like loud TV sets, banging doors, or simply people constantly moving past the tank can make fish nervous. This varies of course, and some fish settle down quickly, but others do not. In any case, I'd think about whether the tank is in the best place in your home. Do also add some big floating plants to create shade. This will help inhibit its jumping behaviour. Do also review water chemistry; while Arowanas are definitely adaptable, extremely hard or soft water won't be appreciated. Fish tend to be nervous when water quality or chemistry aren't in their "comfort zone". Check water quality an hour or two after feeding, just to make sure that the zero ammonia/nitrite levels you report actually hold 24/7. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: My story and questions... Arowanas, CITES & Ammonia 11/22/07
Neale,
<Andy,>
Thank you very much for the quick reply. That's what I really like about you guys. Quick and straight forward. Some people may take your advice the wrong way, but you're just being honest and I take it as constructive
criticism.
<Good oh.>
Your reply really gave me a wake up call. I should really stop bringing home fish that attract me from the LFS and start planning a goal for the tank.
<Exactly.>
That's not something many others would say.
<Perhaps not.>
I always had the mentally of aggressive fish with other aggressive fish would be a balance but I guess not.
<Doesn't work like that.>
I will be trying to find good homes for my fellow friends since I am not
capable of providing tanks for all the different individuals. I really hate to
see them go, but it must be done.
<Quite possibly.>
Just a few more quick questions, and I'll try to stay out of your hair as much as possible. As of current, do you know if/are freshwater stingrays and Asian Arowanas still illegal in CA/USA. I'm getting contradicting information on this issue and can't find it in Department of Fish and Game web site.
<They are NOT legal in the United States. The situation is this: Scleropages species (Asian arowanas) are listed on the CITES appendix 1. This allows for trade only if the animal in question is captive-bred or otherwise certified to not be reducing wild populations by its sale. So in Europe, you certainly can buy Asian arowanas. It costs thousands of dollars, and there's paperwork to sign and electronic chips in the fish, but there is at least a trade in captive-bred fish. In the US, Scleropages are further controlled by the Endangered Species Act in addition to CITES, and this prohibits any sale of any listed species regardless of whether captive-bred or wild-caught. Until such time as the ESA is amended to exclude captive-bred specimens of listed species, Asian arowanas will not be legal within the United States. You can read an FAQ on the topic of pets here: http://www.fws.gov/international/permits/pets.html and specifically on Scleropages here: http://www.fws.gov/permits/faqs/FaqB.shtml#bonytongue >
As for the 170 gallon tank, does one Jardini or Flowerhorn and a Scarlet Pleco
(L-25 Pseudacanthicus sp.) sound reasonable to you?
<Sounds fine. If you find this works and all your fish are happy, you might well be able to add another catfish, just not a Plec. Arowana tend to be more tolerant of bottom dwellers than midwater or upper-level fish. In any event, start with a few fish, see how things work in terms of nitrates and social behaviour, and then act accordingly.>
As for the 55er, what's my best way to correct the circulation issue. Due to it being a concealed tank with pre-cut slots on the top, I am unable to add another hang on filter or external power filter. Should I just modify the Emperor 400 with extended intake tubes to the side corners?
<I'd simply add two or three marine aquarium powerheads. There are some nice units with magnetic holders so you can attach them wherever you want in the tank. A friend of mine has some of these called 'Hydor Koralia' in her reef tank and they seem to work very well.>
I suppose internal power filters or wavemakers/water pumps might work, but are very distracting when viewing the tank.
Another step would be to do some cutting/drilling work, but I want to leave that as a last resort due to the disturbance it would do to the tank.
<Indeed.>
What's your recommendation here?
<If all else fails, add another canister filter. No single addition to your hardware will have so many benefits: water quality, aeration, circulation, and current for fish to swim into. Powerheads and airstones make viable alternatives, but they don't improve filtration.>
Another question is for human ingestion of ammonia
in drinking water. Reading many FAQ's from WWM crew (mainly BF) dislikes the
idea of ammonia in our tap water.
<Ammonia is toxic and we certainly don't need to consume it, and adding it to aquaria is obviously A Bad Thing. On the other hand, as with everything, it's the dose that matters. Trace amounts won't do humans any harm.>
Yet, recently I received another e-mail from my water company stating, "There are no current standards for California for Ammonia.
Health Implications
Ingestion of large doses of ammonium chloride has been shown to cause headache, nausea, diarrhea and failure in glucose tolerance. However, ammonia is not an immediate health concern, and there appears to be little risk to humans from the ingestion of ammonia in drinking water. There is no evidence that ammonia is carcinogenic. However, ammonia is a source of nitrates and may compromise disinfection efficiency and filter performance. Ammonia is not currently regulated by USEPA. Canada has no guideline for ammonia. WHO has a non-health-based guideline based on avoiding consumer complaints."
<Standard answer really. What they're saying is since there's no provable connection between low ammonia concentration and health problems, they aren't going to get sued, and so aren't bothered either way. Given the other problems California has to deal with in terms of water (i.e., actually getting enough to serve the population) I'm certainly sympathetic to them not sweating over the small stuff.>
From what I get of this, our water if fine for ingestion? What do you think?
<I'm not a doctor (well, I am, a PhD, but what I mean is I'm not an MD!) so I can't really give advice here beyond saying ammonia isn't a good thing to have in water at least from a fishkeeper's perspective. Ammonia is definitely toxic to fish and has been comprehensively proven to be so in laboratory conditions. Even as little as 0.5 mg/l causes death in some species and weakens others to the extent of reducing resistance to diseases such as Finrot. On the other hand, if you have human health worries about your water supply, that's something to discuss with a medical practitioner rather than an aquarist!>
Welp that's it for now. Thanks a lot for your time. Reply is greatly
appreciated. Andy.

Very Sick Arowana! HELP!
Hello WWM crew. First off, your time is greatly appreciated! I have searched all over your website and all over the web and can't seem to find what I am looking for. Hopefully one of you will have an answer. One of my silver Arowanas is very sick. First here are some of the details of the tank, setup, and water parameters. I have a website for my tank on myarowanatank.googlepages.com so you can check out the basics of my tank. 4 months ago I received 7 baby Arowanas. 4 jardinis and 3 silvers. They are currently range from 5 inches for the smallest jardini to 11inches for the biggest silver. They are in a 150 gallon tank
<... not altogether...>
with a sump operating volume of 42 gallons. I know it is small but that is for a reason. I am keeping them in that small of a tank so they do not get territorial.
<This won't happen...>
I have had zero fights because of it. I have 430 gallon tank ready for them when they get a little bigger.

I will eventually have an even larger tank for them when they need it. So despite the size it
is setup to handle the bio load for all of them right now. I am OCD about my tank water. I do 10% water changes by gravel vacuuming daily which is automatically replaced by the RO/DI and auto fill system. I maintain KH with baking soda. There is also a 36W UV before the input into the tank. Ok so the water during the day is at.
pH = 6.8 - 7.0
Ammonia = 0 always
Nitrite = 0 always
Nitrate = always less than 5, usually zero
GH = 60 always
KH = maintained between 20 - 40
PO4 = 0 -.5
<All look good>
Now one of my silvers is very sick. 3 weeks ago I noticed white scratches on is head and white around his lips. It looked like damage from hitting stuff which they occasionally do and not like cotton mouth.? I added a little salt and the head mark went away in about 4-5 days. However after a few more days the lips were still not healed and I noticed his appetite dropping off. (All 7 eat 1000 crickets a week right now!)
<Need more nutrition than this>
I hand feed them and pet them so I knew something was wrong. He would only take food if I held it in front of his mouth for awhile and was very slow and not aggressive when he would finally eat it. But appetite dropped from 20 to maybe 4 crickets a day. He is know pretty skinny and still has white lips and has lost all of his appetite yesterday. Last night I caught him vertical tail on bottom head straight up. I took him out of main tank and put him in the plant refugium. Added aeration, salt, stress coat, and some extra minerals to the water. After an hour he
was back horizontal and is also ok this morning. But still weak and no appetite + plus is breathing a little slow still. Now I have carefully inspected him from head to tail. There are no white lice or spots anywhere on his body. His head itself is healed and looks good. But his lips are still white both lower and upper. However the lips are not hairy or fuzzy. It doesn't look like cotton mouth or ich but I am no expert. Any ideas? I usually feed crickets but occasionally give them feeders. I believe it came from a batch of rosie minnows several weeks ago. Although they were quarantined for a week with no deaths or apparent problems first. So any recommended medications or treatments? Also none of the other fish have shown any problems after 3 weeks now. I want this fish to live at all costs! I can take pictures if needed. PLEASE HELP!
Sincerely,
Robert Bledsoe
<Again... better, wider nutrition and move the Osteoglossum bicirrhosum to the larger system... they will fight there in time as well... the real issues here are diet and stress. Bob Fenner>

Very Sick Arowana PLEASE HELP! Neale's much more thorough go 11/11/07
Hello WWM crew. First off, your time is greatly appreciated!
<You're welcome.>
I have searched all over your website and all over the web and can't seem to find what I am looking for.
<Ok.>
Hopefully one of you will have an answer. One of my silver Arowanas is very sick. First here are some of the details of the tank, setup, and water parameters. I have a website for my tank on myarowanatank.googlepages.com so you can check out the basics of my tank.
<I'd sooner you summarised this here. Kind of a pain to have to open up another browser window and trawl through a whole bunch of stuff to find what I wanted. All I really care about is water chemistry, tank volume, filtration and diet. But nice tank though.>
4 months ago I received 7 baby Arowanas. 4 jardinis and 3
silvers.
<You do realise the Jardinis will pulverise the poor South American Arowanas?>
They are currently range from 5 inches for the smallest jardini to 11 inches for the biggest silver.
<Quite a selection. There are, as I hope you know, territorial, non-schooling fish. Unless the tank is the size of a pond, it's one to a tank.>
They are in a 150 gallon tank with a sump operating volume of 42 gallons.
<Way too small for this number of Arowana. Two compatible South Americans might coexist, but even a single Jardini is going to own that space, and treat anything else in there as either [a] dinner or [b] target practise.>
I know it is small but that is for a reason.
<Indeed...?>
I am keeping them in that small of a tank so they do not get territorial.
<You're joking, right? These aren't Mbuna or mudskippers, where this sort of idea makes sense. Each of these fish gets to around a metre in length, and most of that is solid muscle. The sheer bio-load on the filter alone is reason enough NOT to keep them all in a tank this size. If you want to stock multiple South American Arowana, it's something around 150-200 gallons per fish. With Jardini, it just isn't viable because of their incredible aggression.>
I have had zero fights because of it.
<No, you've had no fights because they're babies. Give 'em a few more months. Once the Jardini are half-grown, the males will be causing a LOT of problems.>
I have 430 gallon tank ready for them when they get a little bigger.
<Ah, that tank will house two, maybe three South Americans. Or one Jardini. Your choice.>
I will eventually have an even larger tank for them when they need it.

So despite the size it is setup to handle the bio load for all of them right now.
<Well, they're not "all right" at all. You have one dying Arowana. This is what happens when you have too many mutually aggressive fish. I've seen it with Archerfish, halfbeaks, angelfish, Mbuna, and so on ad nauseum. One fish gets sick, and dies thanks to stress and an inability to get enough food. A few weeks or months later, another fish dies. And then another. And then another. Until there is one left, the dominant male.>
I am OCD about my tank water.
<Good.>
I do 10% water changes by gravel vacuuming daily which is automatically replaced by the RO/DI and auto fill system. I maintain KH with baking soda. There is also a 36W UV before the input into the tank. Ok so the water during the day is at.
pH = 6.8 - 7.0
Ammonia = 0 always
Nitrite = 0 always
Nitrate = always less than 5, usually zero
GH = 60 always
KH = maintained between 20 - 40
PO4 = 0 -.5
<All seems fine.>
Now one of my silvers is very sick. 3 weeks ago I noticed white scratches on is head and white around his lips.
<Skin damage. From fighting or jumping. Quelle surprise.>
It looked like damage from hitting stuff which they occasionally do and not like cotton mouth.?
<Treat as per Finrot.>
I added a little salt and the head mark went away in about 4-5 days. However after a few more days the lips were still not healed and I noticed his appetite dropping off. (All 7 eat 1000 crickets a week right now!) I hand feed them and pet them so I knew something was wrong. He would only take food if I held it in front of his mouth for awhile and was very slow and not aggressive when he would finally eat it.
<Likely stress. This is what happens when fish are stressed. They go into a "retiring" modus to avoid contact with aggressive fish, I suppose. In any case, the best (only) cure is to remove the fish to another tank and allow it to rest and feed peacefully.>
But appetite dropped from 20 to maybe 4 crickets a day. He is know pretty skinny and still has white lips and has lost all of his appetite yesterday. Last night I caught him vertical tail on bottom head straight up.
<Nichts gut.>
I took him out of main tank and put him in the plant refugium. Added aeration, salt, stress coat, and some extra minerals to the water.
<Wasn't aware that salt was beneficial to Arowana. They naturally inhabit fairly soft water. I'd be looking for more specific treatments here, in particular to deal with secondary bacterial infections, which are likely the cause of the skin problem.>
After an hour he was back horizontal and is also ok this morning. But still weak and no appetite + plus is breathing a little slow still. Now I have carefully inspected him from head to tail. There are no white lice or spots anywhere on his body. His head itself is healed and looks good. But his lips are still white both lower and upper. However it lips do look like they are getting fuzzy or hairy so it could be cotton mouth but I am no expert.
<It's just secondary infections setting in. As I say, treat as you would Finrot and/or Fungus and be done with it. Salt isn't really helpful, and neither is Melafix-type stuff.>
Any ideas? I usually feed crickets but occasionally give them feeders.
<Crickets are fine, but they are pretty monotonous and unless you are gut-loading them then hardly a balanced diet. Mix it up, and use either a range of insects or a mix of crickets with carnivore pellets. Feeder fish are an incredibly bad idea with Arowanas. Goldfish and other Cyprinidae are right out, because of their fat content and Thiaminase, but any feeders you didn't personally breed yourself should be treated as parasite/bacteria time bombs. I'm not sure why so many fishkeepers can't grasp this: they spend $1000 on an prize Arowana, and then feed it a 10 cent goldfish taken from a tank with billions of other goldfish many of which are quite obviously sick and all of which are nutritionally incredibly bad for most predatory fish. It's insane.>
I believe it came from a batch of Rosie minnows several weeks ago.
<Even better. Did you breed those Minnows yourself? And gut-load them? And de-worm them? And treat them with a systemic antibiotic? If the answer is "No" to any of those questions, why on earth were you feeding them to fish you purport to care about? Feeder fish -- unless you breed livebearers or something safe yourself -- are nothing more than disease time bombs. Don't use them.>
Although they were quarantined for a week with no deaths or apparent problems first.
<Indeed.>
What would be the best thing to do for treatment?
<Finrot/fungus medication of a type safe for use with Arowana. Quite possibly their is an internal bacterial infection as well, given the odd behaviour of this fish. An antibiotic or antibacterial may help.>
Any specific medications or treatments? Also none of the other fish have shown any problems after 3 weeks now. I want this fish to live at all costs!
<In which case, consult a vet. Largish fish like Arowana can respond quite well to prescription medications better than those offered by pet stores.>
I can take pictures if needed. PLEASE HELP!
<Certainly, a photo of the head of this fish would help pin down the precise infection. But I'm fairly sure it's some sort of secondary infection caused by [a] being bitten by a more aggressive fish (they fight jaw-to-jaw and jaw-to-tail) or [b] hitting its head on the roof of the tank while trying to escape from something. My money would be on one of the Jardini throwing its weight around. While your plan might work with South American Arowanas, and maybe even some of the Asian Scleropages, in my opinion Jardini are just too mean.>
Sincerely,
Robert

Re: Disease Identification On Arowana 11/12/07
Hi Crew,
<Alan>
Possible to identify the disease (see attached pic.) that's on my Arowana's head. Currently it's in a hospital tank with aquarium salt and heater set to 32°C. Will this do? It's already a week and doesn't shows any sign of improvement. Any other remedy that'll speed up the cure? Thks. In advance.
Regards.
Alan
<... is the physical trauma Neale and I have told you about... No "treatment" recommended... other than what's been stated re the dire need to separate these fishes. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bonytongfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re:... Disease Identification On Arowana... still not understanding... 11/13/07
Hi Crew,
Thks. for the reply. Sorry for being in doubt, but it looks fungus (whitish film over certain top scales) to me. Will adding of antibiotics helps? If it's really caused by physical trauma, then is it advisable to put it back into the main tank with the rest of the fishes? Thks. in advance.
Regards.
Alan
<... not worth treating... can't be put back in... RMF>

Re: Very Sick Arowana update! 11/16/07
Thanks for the response! First off let me say I am taking your advice and all the Jardinis are going! The largest Jardini is getting very aggressive and herding the 3 smaller ones to the bottom of the tank.
<Indeed. This is what they do.>
The largest jardini is being sold to the owner of a LFS in 3 days.
<Good. They're lovely animals -- but one to a tank!>
The others I will get rid of ASAP with care of course.
<Good. You will find that the largest male left behind will become aggressive, and so on as you remove them.>
Then the silvers (hopefully 3 not 2) are going to be moved to the 430 gallon until they grow a little bigger.
<OK.>
Now as for the sick silver. I isolated him for 5 days in the plant refuge and treated him per instructions with 2 packets of 200mg Erythromycin, aeration, and a daily 25% water change before each daily redose. The mouth wound or infection has healed considerably and has lost its fuzziness and just left the slight erosion on the end of the lip.
<This will heal in due course, but some scarring may remain. Often the "new" skin has a different colour to what was there before. This is particularly commonly seen in fins, but can happen on the body as well.>
He appeared to be swimming fine and a lot more active but will not take food.
<Not a problem in the short term. More important he heals.>
So I placed him back in the main tank hoping it would encourage him to eat.
<Which he won't if he's being bullied there. I'd keep a sick Arowana on its own. Really, they're best kept alone anyway, and if you going to mix them, they all need to be healthy.>
He has not eaten for about 7 or 8 days now. How long can they go without eating?
<Several weeks. Do try alternate foods. South American Arowanas have a great fondness for insects, so try offering a variety of different insects. Beetles are apparently their favourite food. River shrimps, if you can get them, are also excellent, and few predatory fish ignore earthworms. Don't worry too much though. When the fish is healthy, it will eat.>
Now back in the main tank I watched him closely for several hours. During the day he was horizontal and swimming with a slight waddle. After the lights turned off at night I found him vertical again. He would curve or coil his tail up and try to touch his body. At one point he was swimming in a out of control spiral. After a while he would be back up top swimming normal. Then back on the bottom head up again. I have looked him over very closely. His fins look perfect! The only thing I can see is a small red tinted spot approx 1/8 -3/16" in diameter which u can barely see. When he was still I looked closely at it with a flash light. It appears to have a pin head little spot in the middle of it. This is the only thing I can see on his body. I have attached a few large pictures now if that helps.
<Please next time send smaller photos -- it takes forever to download 14 MB of photos via an e-mail client. We do explicitly ask for photos no larger than a few hundred KB each.>
The first picture is when I placed him in refuge for treatment. The other night time photos where just taken (last 2 show red spot on lower jaw / gill area. What do you think?? Should I treat for fungal, parasites, or different bacteria? Again thanks for your time.
Sincerely,
Robert
<He needs to be moved back to his own tank and kept there, end of story. Get the fish settled down and healed. I don't think there's any seriously wrong with your fish. It's noticeably underweight, yes, but that's easy enough to fix with a mixture of live invertebrates and good quality pellets. The antibiotics or antibacterials will take care of the secondary infections. My guess would be this fish is at the bottom of the pecking order, and putting it into the big tank is simply futile. It's a fish that needs its own tank where it can swim about and feed naturally. Ultimately you can't medicate this problem away -- it's a question of husbandry. Arowanas are not schooling fish in the wild and they are not sociable fish in aquaria. They are territorial loners, and the males especially are pretty nasty towards one another. What you're trying to do is fight against nature, and that's a battle I don't think you can win. If you happen to get a few specimens that coexist, that's great, but there will likely be specimens that will not coexist, and they will HAVE to be re-homed. Cheers, Neale.>

Swimming Problem... need info. 10/23/07
Hi Crew,
<Alan>
One of my fish can't seem to "dive down" no matter how hard she try and the back is always expose above the water level. She's swimming in a horizontal position and not those with head tilted downwards. What's the cause? Should I start to isolate and medicate her or will most likely recover on its own? Pls. advise and thanks in advance.
Regards.
Alan
<Mmm, is this saltwater, fresh? What species of fish? Such disorientation can be the result of trauma, poor nutritional conditioning, diseases of various sorts... And their resolution a reflection of cause... If a goldfish... a good guess... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Swimming Problem, Osteoglossid 10/24/07
Hi Crew,
<Alan>
Sorry for missing out the type of fish, it's an Arowana. Should I take her out and into the hospital tank with medication? Pls. advise and Thks.
Regards.
Alan
<I would NOT move this fish... much more likely trouble in doing so than not. Likely the root cause here is either a physical trauma (highly likely from jumping) or "trapped gas" inside from a blockage... In time this should pass. I would leave this fish where it is, be careful re feeding only small amounts of cut up food. Bob Fenner>

Scleropages jardinii, repro. info./input – 06/18/07
Mr. Fenner,
<Well, it's Neale.>
I have owned a jardinii for two years now.
<Very good.>
I would like to know if there is a definitive way to sex my fish.
<No. Hobbyists sometimes refer to "longer fins" and "brighter colours" but there's no evidence at all that this is valid. Australian fish scientists simply maintain these fish have no reliable sex differences.>
I learned the female of the species carries the fertilized eggs unlike the other types of Arowanas where the male is the one that does so.
<Didn't know that. Thanks for sharing.>
If this is the case, is the female jardinii the one with a more protruding lower jaw (is that a valid way of sexing)?
<Apparently not.>
Your assistance is appreciated.
<It's a bit academic really, because these are by far the most territorial Arowanas, and you'd need a gigantic (i.e., public) aquarium to keep more than one specimen. Nice fish though.>
Thank you,
Adrian Espiritu
<Cheers, Neale>

Arowana with Anchor Worms 3/16/2007
Hello Crew,
 I tried to email you thru the website but it would not go thru. I have a 5 inch Silver Arowana and I noticed it had a few Anchor Worms on him. Well I looked it up on the internet and found several ways to treat Anchor Worms, and I am not sure of the best way to go. So I was wondering if you could help?
<Gladly>
 I have him in a 55 gallon tank with 2 Leopard Plecos (3 inches each) and 2 Sun Catfish (3 inches each). The Plecos and Cats look fine. I do have a Hospital tank set up and running as I type (35 gallon long), but I am not sure what to do. What treatment method should I use and what Medication? Do I have to treat the 55 gallon even if I move him?

I am just lost right now and do not want to lose my Aro. If you have any ideas on how I should handle this issue please let me know.
<Do get some help... as I suggest you carefully net out and hold this fish down (gently) and use tweezers to remove the adult worms/crustaceans from the Arowana (pull near their points of insertion, away from the fish (toward the tail)... daub the area where they're removed with a Mercurical (e.g. Mercurochrome) on a cotton swab (e.g. "Q-Tip")... and treat the water for intermediate forms with an Organophosphate... (e.g. Fluke Taps, Dylox, Masoten...) Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/contrpdparasit.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner> Thanks in advance, Sara N.

Arowana compatibility, sys. 12/28/06
Hello there, and happy holidays!
<And to you and yours>
My family currently has a lovely Arowana at about 19" in length. He's been living in a 46g tank,
<!>
but we're getting a 100-125g tank soon.
<And larger soon afterward I hope/trust>
It's about 60" in length, would that be a suitable length for him, since he's the only Arowana?
<Not really... may/might I ask, would you like to live in a world that is four times your length?>
I've read in other sources that they may develop eyes that turn downwards from being overfed. Is that true?
<Mmm, not really from being overfed, but more as a consequence of captivity period... living in small containers, looking downward... running into objects...>
He does have a slightly bulging eye (his other eye was damaged & it's blind),
<...>
but I don't believe we overfeed him. He's on a diet of Hikari Food Sticks, a random assortment of flake foods, bloodworms, and random bugs/earthworms.
<ditto...>
As far as other fish for the new tank goes, we're a bit uncertain as to what he'd take kindly to. Our local retailer says that teacup rays are suitable (we'd buy only one),
<... well... found in S. America... this is... a start... and do tolerate/appreciate similar water quality>
and since they're both from the same region, their preferences for water types and everything are similar.
Is this true?
<Truth? Scarce can I name but fearful thunder echoes in mine ears...>
What kind of gravel/sand substrate should we use, is there a recommended type?
<Most anything that fosters biological filtration... Covered on WWM>
Also, for the simple fact that they have barbs... how likely is it that they might injure the Arowana or us?
<Barbs? Osteoglossid fishes? Mmm... not to worry>
And also, how much should we expect to pay for a teacup stingray in NJ, USA?
<Perhaps a few tens of dolares per unit>
Another fish we considered was the Silver Dollar (a group of 6, at about 4-5"). Though I think they seem a bit small because of the Arowana's presence,
<Agreed>
the store owner assured us that because they're so round and fast, they're safe.
<Getting past time to look for/at other LFS's>
However, if they are so fast, would they stress the Arowana out?
<Yes>
And wouldn't he still bite at them, perhaps not to kill, but still causing a sufficient amount of damage?
<Too likely in a small volume>
As for the tank itself, I tend to stock mine heavily with plants.
Would the ray uproot it all, and the silver dollars devour them that quickly?
<Very much so...>
What sort of balance should we aim for?
<My friend! That is beyond me... perhaps yourself!>
Thank you,
Christina
<Thank you, Bob Fenner>

Jack Dempsey vs. Arowana 9/19/06
Hello, Best site I've come across!!!
< Thanks for your kind words.>
I'm a new aquarist, so this may seem like a silly question. I have a 30g freshwater tank with a 6 in. Jack D. that is quite interesting. I feed him all sorts of food & he is aggressive when feeding. I really want an Arowana, but have read how aggressive they are. I plan to start a 150g in about 6 months. Do you think this might work? Thanks for any info-Joe
< Am afraid the Jack Dempsey may not tolerate the Arowana and may harm him. This will be up to the individual temperament of the Jack Dempsey.-Chuck>

Greetings
Halo Mr. Fenner Robert,
<Greetings>
I would like to introduce myself, my name is Dendi Sjafriadi, I live in Jakarta Indonesia.
<Ah, I have been to many parts of your country and am visiting there (the Gilis, Lombok) this May...>
I've been keeping animal mostly fish for about 15 years.
I do this for hobby.
After I seen your writing here I would like to know more about Asiatic Arowana ( Scleropages formosus ).
At the moment I have 3 Asiatic Arowana which in Indonesia we called it Arowana. The colour is still dark gold ( maybe if it is older it will
become red ).
<How nice!>
I raise it hoping I can breed them.
<A worthy goal>
But until know I don't have a writings which tell the different sex.
<A bit hard to judge in Scleropages... but the "dissimilar jaws" measure still holds... go look at some mature individuals with an expert to help you.>
In your writing above I don't get it clear. And for the picture you
put above is the Silver arowana.

Thank you for the attention.
Regards, Dendi
<Bob Fenner>

Asian Arowana mouthbrooding
I found a webpage that said that male arowanas mouthbrood. I was not aware of this.
<This is so.>
Would it be possible for you to send me a couple of references that describe the parental habits of arowanas (scientific journals if possible)?
Thank You
S. Daly
<Hmm, all I have on Bony Tongue fishes is cited (mainly "pet-fish") on the section of that name on the Freshwater part of the site: www.WetWebMedia.com... But there are also works on the site that detail how to "do" computer searches for bibliographic work (like Fishbase.org, BIOSIS, The Zoological Record...). Do read these over and seek help with a Reference Librarian in the Life Science section of a college library.
Bob Fenner>

Arowanas?
Hey, I'm trying to help my mom out because she wants to put an Arowana or two into her 400 gallon tank as a show fish for her restaurant. I would like to know if you could give me any links to good breeders or retailers of Arowanas.
<Mmm, I know of some breeders of Scleropages in the orient... but there are none in the U.S. as far as I'm aware... If you have the time, patience, it's better to grow one up yourself... or barring this, make an exhaustive search through local to not-so-local fish stores in your area... leaving your business card for them to call you should someone come in looking to trade theirs>
Please send me an e-mail back soon, she would like to get started as soon as possible. Also, is it possible to keep more than 1 male and 1 female Arowana together in a 400 gallon tank? Thank You.
<They can be kept together... but getting them to do when they're larger... is tough at times. Lastly, for sure do make sure the top is completely covered... great jumpers. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/osteoglossiforms.htm
Bob Fenner>

Arowana and Ray Biotope Tank
Hi,
I'm setting up a 225 gallon Arowana tank with Rays.
<Even though 225 gallons in rather large, it is still a rather small tank in comparison to the fish you selected. I do not think you could safely stock more than two of each.>
I would like to use a few live plants to make them a little more comfortable.

If I am only using a few plants how much fluorite should be used

and what kind of plants.
<Perhaps you could grow some Java Fern attached to something. There would be little danger in it becoming up rooted.>
Thanks, Dave
<Good luck! -Steven Pro>

Re: Arowana and Ray Biotope Tank
Thanks for the info and the 225 is only for 2 years until we build our dome home where there new tank will be the circumference of 30' by 3' wide 4' tall with a main tank connected at one end 10' x 4' x 4'
<Wow! Truly impressive concept. Do send us pictures when done. -Steven Pro>

Arowana with a Moray Eel
I have recently purchased an Arowana and a Fresh Water Moray Eel( looks just like the one in the picture).
<Not a good choice to mix these two very different fish from very different environments.>
After reading through the articles on the Eel, I understand that it prefers a brackish water more. Right now I have a 55 gallon fresh water tank.
<The 55 is way too small for the Arowana, my friend. Your LFS did you a disservice by selling you a fish that needs a standard 180 as an absolute minimum.>
PH is between 7.6- 8.0, Nitrate is fine and the there is no Ammonia, at a temp. of about 80 degrees. What should I do, will adding some salt water to accommodate the Eel effect the Arowana?
<You are not going to be able to strike a happy balance for these two. My best recommendation is to return the Arowana and turn your 55 into a brackish tank.>
For this tank what would you recommend everything should be at. Thanks for your time.
<Further info can be found here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/osteoglossiforms.htm here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwmorayeels.htm and here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bracsetup.htm -Steven Pro>

STI News: Fish farmers going all out to stop thieves (Arowana Rustling)
This message was forwarded to you from Straits Times Interactive (http://straitstimes.asia1.com.sg) by perrychong@hotmail.com
<Thanks Perry. Will post for our Arowana keepers. Bob F>
Comments from sender:
Pet fish trade in Singapore
Fish farmers going all out to stop thieves
by Ginnie Teo
SOMETHING fishy's going on in the ornamental fish scene, and fish farmers here are not taking any more chances.
One fish farmer who lost $20,000 worth of arowana recently is installing a $5,000 security system.
Another is putting up a surveillance camera that enables him to keep an eye on his prized fish even while he is at home, via his computer.
Other farmers are also beefing up security by carrying out more patrols of their farms or keeping a closer watch on suspicious characters who enter their shops.
This comes after a recent spate of thefts which saw over $140,000 worth of ornamental fish being stolen.
Arowana specialist Goh Kok Gan was one of the unlucky victims.
He lost seven of his precious charges on March 22 when thieves walked out of his Jalan Bukit Ho Swee shop, Dragon's Home, with them while the attendant was busy talking to customers. The fish were worth close to $20,000.
Mr Goh has since installed surveillance cameras.
He said: 'We already have a security system in place at night to detect intruders, but we didn't have one to watch over shoppers.
'This should help deter thieves. Hopefully, we won't become victims again.'
Mr David How, 50, of D'Koi Universe at Farmart Centre in Choa Chu Kang, has linked his surveillance camera to his home computer.
He couldn't have timed it better. Just last week, he caught a student stealing an expensive guppy from his shop.
He said: 'He took the fish from my shop and was already at another shop trying to steal again. Luckily, my brother caught him.'
The 14-year-old boy was released with a warning.
Over at Qian Hu Fish Farm in Jurong, over $100,000 was spent on hiring security guards, training guard dogs and installing a surveillance system before it opened in 2000.
And it is not a one-time cost. The system costs $2,000 to $3,000 a month to maintain.
Qian Hu has also embedded microchips into its arowanas. These contain electronically-coded information such as the farm producing them.
This means that stolen arowanas can be tracked down.
But some fish sellers say that, sometimes, simple precautions are the best.
Mr Benjamin Wee, 26, who runs PetMart at Serangoon North, suggests keeping expensive fish out of people's reach.
He said: 'Just put the expensive ones higher up so that people can't reach them.
'Or install covers over the tanks. That should keep thieves away.'
On where the stolen fish were ending up, Mr Kenny Yap, executive chairman and managing director of Qian Hu Corporation, believes a black market for ornamental fish has emerged.
He said: 'There are more thefts now because the ornamental-fish business is a booming industry at the moment. There are people out there who will pay for the best fish.
'The thieves know this. They are opportunists cashing in on the times.'
The export of ornamental fish, which includes guppies, goldfish and the iridescent dragon fish, was worth more than $70 million for Singapore last year.
IP Address:192.169.41.36

Freshwater link
Hi,
Would be grateful if you could put a link to us on your freshwater links page... to http://www.arofanatics.com .
It's an Arowana community for Arowana collectors from around the world, with forums, galleries and much more! Useful help and advice on all types of Arowana (from S. American and Australian to highly prized Asian Arowanas).
Your link is already up on the site :)
Thanks.
<Will do. Bob Fenner, back from "the land down under">

Arowana rubbing on things
own jardinei Arowana that is about 10 inches, right now my fish didn't eat anything for a whole week, it's skin begin scratch and all the skin lost its color, can you help me some ways to prevent this problem, thank!
<Arowanas are often times quick to turn off of food. Usually it's because of declining water conditions or illness. Since you mentioned it's scratching, then it most likely has a skin infection which will need to be treated immediately. If you have a large enough tank to separate it and medicate it than please do so. It most likely has a parasite like Ich, and is rubbing on things to help remove the parasite from it's body. I would suggest medicating the fish with something like Maracide from Mardel. That should help the fish. Good luck. -Magnus>

Arowana problems
Hi, I am wondering if anyone can help me, I have two arowanas. One has started to swim with his head up with his rest of his body vertically down. I waited for a while thinking he had died but realized that he was still alive? He is swimming normally now, but has done this a few times! What is he doing??
Thank you for your time and I hope to hear from you soon.
Hello John. You will need to give us a bit more information. What size tank is he in? What filtration do you use? Do you add any products, and if so, which ones? How often do you do partial water changes? Do you know your ammonia, nitrite, nitrate levels, and what are you feeding your arowanas? Arowanas are prone to Internal gas bubble disease. Make sure your tank has good circulation and surface movement. Here are some links which may help you understand what gas bubble disease is: http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/GBD.shtml and http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/gas-bubble.html -Gwen

Will this work for my Arowana setup?
Hi, I have a few questions I would like to ask today. (again) First off, I currently have a 75 DAS aquarium <I'm not familiar w/that> for a 9 inch black Arowana to live in for "a while." I understand that DAS have very poor filtration systems, so I recently purchased a magnum 350 canister filter to aide in the filtration. But I hear that the magnum 350 doesn't have biological filtration.
<Biological filtration is exactly what a canister filter is for.>(also I have bare bottom tank so no
substrate bacteria)
<Why? I would definitely put some substrate in there. In addition to the huge surface area for bacteria, the Arowana will not feel comfortable w/o it & may get freaked out by this.>
So I wonder, will this suffice as far as filtration goes? Another question regarding equipment setup is....the magnum 350 pumps around 300 gallons per hour back to the tank, (I think) will this be enough for circulation for Arowanas? Because as of now, I am having the DAS system return the water at 600 gph plus the 300 gph the magnum is returning, is this to much for black Arowanas? <no> is to much circulation bad? <no> should I lower the water return on my DAS? <no>
<I would add a HOB filter, like an Aquaclear 500 to act as mechanical & extra biological filtration. I like to stack them: (bottom to top) sponge, 1" filter floss (polishes water) & Bio Blox. I rinse the sponge & floss at every water change, leaving the Blox & canister to do the biological thing.>
My last question is regarding the black Arowana itself. At what pH level should I have it live in?
is 7.5-8.0 ok? <Not really a concern> and are there any special concerns I need to know about keeping them? Please advise...
<As you know, they need lots of horizontal swimming room & a good sturdy cover, as they are excellent jumpers. Try not to feed them feeder goldfish, as they are usually starved & very crowded in holding which causes them to be diseased & not very nutritious.>
Thank you
<You're welcome & good luck--Pufferpunk>
Thank you.

Arowana tank: Crushed coral substrate? No substrate? (11/10/03)
Hi crew of WWM, thank you for having so much resources to learn from.
<Hi! Ananda here tonight...I'm going to answer both of your emails in this message.>
No doubt in a year or two the tropical fish business will bloom more than it already has in
part because of you guys.
<Hmmm, likely to keep going, anyway, but not necessarily due to us...>
Well today I just have one quick question that I can't seem to find any where else. I plan to care for two silver Arowanas in a 100 freshwater tank and I wonder if I can use crush coral substrate because I have a lot left after setting up my 180 gallon marine tank.
<Two problems with this. One, a 100g tank is too small, long-term, for most Arowanas, some of which can get up to 40" long. Even the "small" ones can reach 28". Either way, they deserve a full-blown indoor pond. The second problem is that these fish prefer slightly acidic conditions, and crushed coral is going to raise the pH to something quite alkaline.>
Will it effect the water hardness to suit the Arowanas' life? What about other fishes? Can I have other fishes with crush coral substrate?
<While definitely not suitable for Arowanas, there are fish that will happily accept crushed coral as a substrate. African cichlids and most brackish fish come to mind.>
Thank you very much for your assistance
<On to part 2>
Hi, I have a really quick question today. I plan to have two silver Arowanas in a 180 gallon tank and I wonder if it's best I don't use any substrate?
<Hmmm... Even in a 180, I wouldn't want to keep one Arowana, let alone two. It's akin to living your entire life in something the size of a jail cell.>
Would having a bare bottom better than having gravel?
<It might be, and you get a mirror effect from the bottom glass.>
Will that effect that biological filtration of any kind?
<Maybe, but you're going to need a lot of filtration for Arowanas anyhow... think pond-level filtration for an indoor pond.>
Because I hear that having a deep substrate produce nitrifying bacteria which is beneficial.
<Well, the substrate itself doesn't produce bacteria; rather, it can be a place for bacteria to live.>
But I also hear that having bare bottom will be easier to clean the water.
<Definitely easier to clean the tank when it has a bare bottom.>
What is the best way to go? Please advise.

Thank you very much.
-PHT-
<You're welcome. --Ananda>

Arowana Problem
Greetings! We have an Arowana. He has been swimming real low to the bottom of the tank and he is not eating. We have cleaned out the tank, done water treatments with ick disease medicine. Some days he is more active than others, but he is still not eating. What can we do? Please respond as soon as you can. Much Appreciation, Lisa
<<Dear Lisa; How long have you had him? I recommend putting the carbon back into your filter to remove any leftover medication for the time being. Because unless he actually has external parasites (which you will see as small white spots that look like salt on his body) you are just stressing him for no reason, meds can be very hard on sensitive fish like Arowanas. Also, you will need to take a sample of your tank water to your local pet store and have them test it for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Make sure they test all three, and make sure they explain what the results mean...your Arowana is probably needing more frequent partial water changes. What are you feeding him? Perhaps you can try an alternate food, like dried bloodworms, Tubifex, or anything else that floats. Some Arows can be trained to take floating pellets. Make sure he gets a varied diet for the best health, but avoid feeder goldfish. -Gwen>>

Arowana Problem
Our Arowana had cotton mouth disease. We got medication for it and followed all instructions. He always eats feeder fish, but lately since the cotton mouth disease he has stopped eating. What should we do? Please respond.
<<Hello. Exactly which medication are you using? What is the name of it? You said you were treating with an ich medication, this will not cure your fish of cottonmouth disease! You need a good antibiotic for Mouth rot. Go to your local fish store and ask for one. While you are there, is there any way you can get your water tested? Please test your water and email me the results for the following: ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Thank you. Also please note that "cleaning out the tank" can cause more problems than regular PARTIAL water changes done weekly, which is what you should be doing. -Gwen>>

Arowana Problem III
Thank you so much for your immediate response. The medicine we gave Barnabas, our Arowana, was FURAN 2. FURAN 2 for the treatment of cotton mouth disease. Today he is swimming around more and this weekend we will try some dried worms or some of the other foods you suggested. Thankfully, he is appearing to be more active. Do you have any more suggestions? Are they're drops we can put in the water that will give him some nutrients until his appetite comes back? What about vitamins? Please respond. Once again, THANK YOU for all of your help. Lisa Sanchez
<<Hi Lisa; yes, there are vitamins you can add to the food he is eating, you can find Selcon at your local fish store, also VitaChem will do the trick. Just follow directions on the packaging. The Furan 2 should help as well, just remember to test your water! Sounds like things are looking better! :) Good luck, -Gwen>>

Arowana Setup
Hi There, I already have a 125 gallon fish tank for my 6 inch Australian Arowana (jardini). I have 2 emperor 400 power filter, two 250 watt titanium heaters, and two 15 inch bubble wand at each end of the fish tank. I replaced the activated carbon of the cartridges...with Marineland's diamond crystal for removal of ammonia and the extra cartridges now contain SeaChem's matrix bio. The heaters are set at 85 degrees Fahrenheit. <Loose the white diamond and allow a natural bio filtration to become established on those four big bio-wheels. That's what they're for. Far more effective and no need to replace. Do water changes to correct spikes until you are cycled. You are testing, I hope. If not, please start>
My questions are:
1.) Any comments with my set-up? All the stuff I mentioned adequate enough for a healthy and safe environment of my baby arowana? <Will be OK while he's a baby and alone in the tank>
2.) Are the power filters enough? Or I need to add another emperor 400? Because I read an article that the flow of the filters should have a total of 10 times the amount of gallons of the aquarium per hour? Since I have 125 gallons....I need to have around 12000 of water flowing thru my power filters? Is two enough right now. since only one fish is in the tank. and it is still small? <Fine for now>
3.) Does those water agitation on the surface caused by the power filter will be bad for the arowana ....since supposed to be on the surface of the water all the time......and the water agitation might annoy my arowana? <He might get blown around a little. But IMO he can handle it>
4.) if changing water, ...can I use tap water...and go straight to my tank....then I add salt, and Amquel plus , and Novaqua.....safe? or do I need to age my water first? I am just worried about the chlorine that goes to my tank........they might harm my arowana.....before the Amquel plus and Novaqua.....gets the chance to completely eliminate them. What do you recommend to my problem?
thanks, Antonio
<Hi Antonio, Don here. For my water changes I use only dechlorinator. I have several 5 gallons bucket which are each treated, but not aged any longer than it takes to draw out the old water. But then I'm blessed with soft, pH 7.0 water. And I stocked with fish that like, or can adapt, to my conditions. I would suggest the same for you. The more your conditions are chemically dependant, the more chance for mistakes/problems. BTW, all this is based on your arowana being only six inches. He's going to end up over 3 feet long. At some point he will need a bigger tank and a lot more filtration. Do not give him feeders! At some point you will introduce Ick, at least. This tank/fish will be a "bear" to treat>

Cramped Aussie
Hi there,
this will be my set-up in a month:
1 golden jardini (five inches)
1 Pleco (four inches)
30 gallon tank (36 inches long)
bare bottom
air pump
8 inch air bubble band
250 watt digital titanium heater w/ thermometer
emperor 400 power filter
do I still need the following to have a healthier tank?
1.) UV sterilizer
2.) protein skimmer
3.) power head
what are pros and cons of these?
thanks,
Antonio
>>>Antonio,
Are we talking Scleropages jardini here? This fish gets to be 3 feet long, and REQUIRES a tank of *AT LEAST* 135 gallons. Forget UV sterilizers and protein skimmers (the latter of which we don't use on freshwater tanks anyway) you need to get rid of the fish, or get a MUCH larger tank. If you mean a different species, please clarify.
Jim<<<

Cramped Aussie - part 2
Hi there,
thanks for your reply.
yes....it is a Scleropages jardini. It is still very small (5 inches).
I am just wondering why you were suggesting that I should get rid of my fish??? It is my pet...and I love him.
Anyways.....I really don't think that putting a 5 inch Arowana....into a 135 gallon at the moment is wise. A small Arowana will not be very comfortable when placed into a very big container. Maybe once the Arowana becomes 12 inches.....is a better time to transfer to a 135 gallon.
sincerely,
Antonio
>>>Antonio,
Most of the time when someone puts a fish such as this in a small tank, it's because they are completely ignorant of the fish's needs, either now or down the road. This fish grows fairly fast, so unless you plan on providing larger quarters VERY SOON, then you will need to get rid of him. There are lots of "loved" pets that are abused, neglected and by extension killed every day.
I hope you plan on providing him with the home he needs. Keeping him in such a tank too long will stunt his growth. Also, an Arowana will NOT be uncomfortable in a large tank, this is silly. They don't occur naturally in small glass boxes, but in spacious rivers much larger than 135 gallons. Best of luck to you with your fish!
Regards
Jim<<<

Red Algae, DIY skimmer, and Beautiful black Arowana
Hi,<Hi back, MikeD here> I am some what new to this site but I really enjoy it so far. Couple questions if you can help. I have a 75 gallon reef tank and just lately its starting to get over taken by the bad bubbly red algae I think it is. Any suggestions on how to get rid of it quickly?<IMO "quickly" is always a red flag trouble word. There are many things that will make it go away including 1)increased circulation, 2) RO/DI water,3) increased partial water changes, 4) eliminating "oily" foods and 5) siphoning it off while doing partial water changes. There ARE products available to kill it as well, but use with caution as each has a definite disadvantage to be considered.> I have had it set up about a year. Also I have 2 aggressive salt water fish I am moving to a smaller tank anything you can suggest or a site I can look at for a DIY skimmer that's cheap since I only have 2 fish in the tank?<sure...check the DIY forum here or at Reefcentral.com> One last question, in the 125 gallon I am getting a large black Arowana and a white Oscar not sure what else if anything, (dorado (doratto? catfish, sting ray) anything you can suggest?<Arowanas grow to almost 3 ft and are huge PLYS they are acrobatic jumpers. One will fill a 125 by itself and they commonly kill themselves leaping into the hood/lid....they can jump almost 3' straight up after insects, small frogs and even small birds. their mouth has been compared to a landing barge and their genus name, Osteoglossum, means teeth on the tongue and they consume HUGE amounts of food as they grow.>. These fish are paternal mouth brooders would the bright red gravel take away from his beautiful look or what can you suggest for his aquarium to be set up as.<Almost anything you'd like. The black Arowanas end up silver and almost identical to the silvers. Tankmates can be tricky do to their large size and gaping maws, so I'd suggest caution here....I kept my last one with a Tiger shovelnosed catfish as a tank buddy, that way anything that dodged one was eaten by the other, with NEITHER up nor down safe.> I would rather not have it plain. Thank you in advance for your help. Tim and Kim.<Hope this helps. Use caution if you get a little one and raise it. I lost a small baby by feeding it a live spider. The head shaking was evident that it had been bit inside the mouth and it gradually wasted away from the venom over a period of 10 days or so. This IS rare, but it CAN happen, with most spiders cheerfully just considered more food.>

Arowana foods 12/18/05
Hi, I was just wondering what would be some good live fish to feed a 13" Silver Arowana?
<Not live. Cut fish muscle/fillet, crickets and other insects and their larvae, night crawlers and other worms...>
I also heard that feeding Arowanas live fish is bad for them, is this true?
<Yes... can bring in disease, some cause gut blockage, behavioral anomalies...>
I hear it can make their eyes go down instead of up.
<Actually, this is more a matter of physical damage (in part from pursuing the live food I guess), but the animal jumping, bumping its head but good... Bob Fenner>

Discus with Arowana 10/18/05
Hey, I was just wondering if you could mix Discus's and an Arowana together in a 100gal tank. thanks.
>> You can, if the Arowana is still young. Once the arowana reaches around 16 inches in length it will have to be moved. For that matter, a 100 gallon tank is too small for an arowana at that size. Good Luck, Oliver<<

Arowana fish
Hullo Robert,
This is Ingrid Again!!!!
Could you give me the details about Arowana Fish
e.g.:- Tank temp.
Vicious/docile ??
<Can be, is a bit of both... More like Sid when hungry/feeding, most of the time passive... easily picked on by more aggressive tankmates>
What type of water do they like PH???
<Prefer softer, more acidic, but can/do tolerate wide conditions>
What do they eat?
<Most meaty foods, offered near, on the surface>
Can you put other fish with them?
<Yes>
How big can they grow?
<Two to four feet or so...>
How do they breed.? and are they good parents.?
<Mouthbrooders... yes>
Could you tell me the same for the African Knife Fish?
<Please see WWM and fishbase.org re>
A million thanks for your time!
Best Wishes.
Ingrid Armstrong - -------------[wanted to purchase these fish on
Wednesday-[ SA time] if you could reply soonest!
<Do read on WWM... Bob Fenner>

Arowana fish
Hullo Robert,
Yep, this is Ingrid !
Hoping you are well.
George, my son, has a question for you.
How can you tell the difference between the male and the female arowana?
<Ahh, the males jaws don't meet up evenly... it is the mouthbrooder of the two>
By the way. His Arowana - doing flourishing.
Many Thanx
Best Wishes.
Ingrid
HAVE A LOVELY DAY!
<Ah, good. Will endeavor, allow. Bob Fenner>

Silver Arowana tank size?
My LFS has a very active and nice looking 6" Silver Arowana. The biggest tank they can get for me is a 180 gallon measuring 72"x24"x24". They have assured me that a 180 would be big enough to house this single fish when fully grown, is this true?
>> When it is fully grown, no. The fish will grow to 60" in length. But in a tank of 180 gallons it will grow only to a somewhat smaller size, and it could be ok to live in a tank that size for a good while. At its full size Arowanas are really fish for the public aquarium. Both Black, Australian and African Arowanas are smaller fish and would be better suited to live in a tank that size. Good Luck, Oliver

Compatibility questions & miscellany... Mainly Aruanas... sys. - 06/30/06
Hey there, thank you for the reply last time, it was really helpful.
<Welcome>
Bob had previously helped me identify my Knifefish as Sternarchella schotti, which seemed dead on correct. However, he has continued to
grow past the 8" mark; he's about 11" now... is there perhaps another species that he could possibly be, or is he just an abnormally large example?
<Could be... either possibility>
We also used to feed him various foods, ranging from bloodworms to shrimp and everything in between. However, I've been busy this year
(blahh, junior year of high school is evillll)
<Correction my young friend. Only certain acts are evil... not individuals, school time frames... Though...>
, and my father's rather lax about fancy feeding...
<Careful here...>
so we hadn't given him live food in ages.
When we did start putting in live food again, he showed no interest at all... is there any way we can get him to start again?
<Mix some in with the prepared foods... over time...>
My father also purchased an Arowana (silver) while I was away at school. Since they both like softer, slightly lower pHs, so I left
them together; they haven't fought once. The Arowana is about 13" now.
What are the chances of him bullying the Knifefish, or vice versa?
<Very small... Perhaps if/when the Arowana is large enough to ingest the knife...>
We also have a gold Gourami and Pleco in the tank, both about 5" long or so.
<Oh, the Gourami will be inhaled first>
Recently, the gourami's been somewhat subdued and injured...
Nothing serious, but there's missing scales and slight dents along his back.
<Oh, it's time is coming>
Somehow, an Arowana attack doesn't seem like it would leave those marks, and neither does a Pleco or Knifefish. The water
conditions are the same as always (pH about 6.5, soft water, well planted and shady), and are holding steady.
We have a few cichlids in another tank that are about 5" now, and were wondering if they could get along with the Arowana/Knifefish.
<... depends on species, the size of the tank...>
I think (though I'm not sure) that the salinity and pH and everything are quite different though; would they be able to coexist healthily/peacefully?
<See above>
Our Arowana has a few unfortunate things, though. He's been blinded in one eye (which has made him more docile but slightly jumpier) after
smacking into the floor before we learned to clamp down the top.
<... happens... all the time>
He doesn't swim noticeably different, but most of the time when he lunges for food, he'll just barely catch it or miss. He hasn't lost condition
though... he's still a fat and constantly hungry pig. But...How should we help him compensate for this, if at all?
<Mmm, bigger/est tank, careful feeding of cut foods offered on/with a dedicated "feeding stick"... good maintenance otherwise>
The other thing is that the person who sold us the fish told my dad that he would grow to fit his tank.
<... uh... no>
Disillusioned, my dad thought he'd be fine to stick in a 46gallon tank for the rest of his life,
<Not a very good or long one...>
especially since he was only about 6" long when he bought him.
However... I'd like to know my options for him, just in case. We don't really have the resources for a larger tank, maybe 60g at the most.
<... needs hundreds of gallons minimum...>
I'd be willing to try and sell him back, or send him to another place, but I'm not sure if his eye will affect his ability to do well there,
and I've grown somewhat attached. ^^" If we need to send him elsewhere, are there facilities that we can do so?
<Maybe>
Are there Arowana species that would be able to fit in a 46 gallon tank comfortably?
<No. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/osteoglossiforms.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Thank youuuu,
Christina

Re: Compatibility questions & miscellany - 06/30/06
Eep! I'm sorry, for the 2nd to last question... I live in NJ, USA, if that helps at all. I'm not aware of any public aquariums or NON-commercial pet stores around here, though I'd be more then willing to drive a bit more for him, heh.
<Mmm, give the large/r stores and Service Companies in the "Aquarium" section of your local Yellow Pages a ring re... perhaps they'll know someone with facilities, interest. Bob Fenner>

Wormy Arowana - 02/27/06
I have a 12" Arowana that had a lump on his right side. I tried to treat it with Prazi-pro, and salt but to no avail. I thought he may have developed dropsy but that was his only symptom, so I treated him with Maracyn II after the Prazi and salt but that didn't work either. So, I decided to perform surgery. I used eugenol as the anesthetic (clove bud oil) then made a small incision under the scale at the backside of the lump. I couldn't believe what I saw. I removed a 3-4" pink worm with a white head all curled up in a ball. He is doing fine know and I am using the Maracyn II as an antibiotic. I was wondering if you could identify the worm and give me some tips on how to prevent this again? My water is perfect and I also have a very healthy teacup ray and clown knife. Thanx Mark Galary
< These fish are always wild caught and could have picked up all kinds of intestinal critters like flatworms or tapeworms. Use a medication with Praziquantel in it like Parasite clear, or PraziPro to prevent further problems.-Chuck>

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