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| FAQs on Freshwater Environmental Disease 4
Related Articles: Environmental Disease,
FW Disease Troubleshooting,
Freshwater Diseases, Choose
Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease Treatment Options
by Neale Monks,
Related FAQs: Environmental Disease 1,
Environmental Disease 2,
Environmental Disease 3,
Environmental Disease 5,
Cycling Trouble-Fixing,
&
Toxic Situations,
Popeye/Exophthalmia,
Nutritional Disease,
Aquarium
Maintenance, Establishing Nutrient Cycling, African Cichlid Disease 1,
Cichlid
Disease,
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Fish dying right and left, FW, env. 1/24/07
Hi Bob,
<Jason>
Been a while since I have written you, but here I am again.
So here's the story
First the tank and the water quality.
55 Gallon,
Water 20 PPM on Nitrate, 0 nitrite, 300 very hard, Alkalinity 180,
<Units please... am an old ex H.S. chem. and physics instructor... no units, no
credit>
ph 8 to 8.4 9 (hardness and ph symptoms of the local tap water in Arizona). Temp
80 to 82 Ammonia 0.
Several weeks ago, I tried Mollies again (which I have had very bad luck with in
the past) and sure enough I had one go vertical on me again.
<Environmental>
Took the water to be tested at a PetSmart, told me the salt was too low.
I added salt and cured the Molly, yea! Also, I killed some a live plants (which
I later learned adding salt will do). The tank got cloudy as the plants died.
<Bacterial et al. decomposition>
I removed the plant and stated doing small water changes every other day trying
to clear the cloudiness. This was about 3 to 4 weeks ago. I still have some
cloudiness (white).
Fish
2 Plecos (going to remove one, they are getting big)
Had 9 neon tetras, now down to 4
Bought 4 sward tails, all have died
3 Black skirt tetras
4 guppies (one dying)
2 scissor tails
<Most of the above are pretty salt-intolerant>
3 fish I don't remember the name off, they are silver with red over their eyes
and a wide black stripe on their tail (one has a mouth fungus but still feeds
will, one has what appears to be a tumor on it's side but also feeds well)
2 Mollies male and female (on a side note, I literally just put four fry in a
separator, so the female is having babies, pretty cool).
The female molly is clearly pregnant, but with only one male in the tank he
harasses her all the time. So I changed the tank around adding more fake plants
trying to give her hiding space. I want to add more females, but not until the
water situation straightens out. I also removed one air pump as I had three and
I wanted to make one side of the tank less circulated than the other as they
told me this would also help.
I used TopFin water clarifier twice in an effort to clear the rest of the
cloudiness in the tank (I suspect that helped kill two more Neons and the
guppy). It made no visible change over 48 hours. On a side note, I have isolated
the guppy and one of the eyes is definitely popped out.
I have a two filter system, both filter were pretty dirty. I cleaned one and
replaced the other. I'm trying to do as little as little as possible, but I'm
loosing fish right left. I have lost 9 fish in one week???? I'm definitely doing
something wrong.
The remaining fish feed well are do not appear to be stressed. I'm thinking that
the multiple water changes were also not good for them? I did clean the rocks
significantly, not just skimming the top. Do you think I removed too much
bacteria?
Suggestions or other questions? Please help!
Jason
<Have just skipped down... Your system is under- biologically filtered, and you
have added salt, killed off or stalled the metabolism of your bio-filter... You
really need to go back to proverbial "square one" here... and first figure out
what you want to do... that is, what sorts of organisms you want to keep... What
you list is not compatible chemistry/physics wise... Bob Fenner>
Re: Fish dying right and left, Tom's much better go 1/24/07
<<Bob,
Sorry I was slow with this one. Should have moved it to my in-box before working
on it. Might answer some of Jason’s follow-ups, however. Tom>>
Hi Bob,
<<Hi, Jason. Tom with you this time around.>>
Been a while since I have written you, but here I am again.
<<Not a “social” visit I take it?>>
So here's the story:
First the tank and the water quality.
55 Gallon.
Water: 20 PPM on Nitrate, 0 nitrite, 300 very hard, Alkalinity 180, pH 7.8 to
8.4.
<<Holy Mackerel! 7.8 to 8.4 on the pH scale is a pretty big swing and with your
alkalinity at 180 ppm, it’ll stay there, too. Ever considered keeping African
Cichlids? :) >>
9 (hardness and pH symptoms of the local tap water in Arizona). Temp 80 to 82;
Ammonia 0. Several weeks ago, I tried Mollies again (which I have had very bad
luck with in the past) and sure enough I had one go vertical on me again. Took
the water to be tested at a PetSmart, told me the salt was too low.
<<Good for PetSmart! (I’m not above “chastising” this store when they screw up
but I’ll give credit where and when it’s due.) As an aside, keep an eye on how
much salt you put into this tank. If you go beyond one tablespoon per five
gallons of water, your Plecos are not going to be happy with you and other than,
perhaps, the Guppies, neither will your other fish. Scaleless fish like Plecos
don’t tolerate salt well. The ratio I’ve mentioned can be used as a
“maintenance” level but a higher ratio than this isn’t advisable.>>
I added salt and cured the Molly, yea!
<<Good advice and I’m happy to hear this, Jason.>>
Also, I killed some live plants (which I later learned adding salt will do).
<<Yep.>>
The tank got cloudy as the plants died. I removed the plants and stated doing
small water changes every other day trying to clear the cloudiness. This was
about 3 to 4 weeks ago. I still have some cloudiness (white).
<<This one falls under the heading of “Things I Picked Up While Researching
Other Things”, Jason. Most of us understand, to a degree anyway, that plants
will take in (absorb) dissolved organic compounds from the water. So far, so
good. The problem arises when a plant dies because it releases these organics
back into the tank particularly if the plant isn’t quickly removed. On the same
side of the coin, a sudden infusion of these compounds can/will spur a bacterial
explosion (bloom) which is most often seen as ‘white, cloudy water’. Because of
the “nature” of the cloudy water, small changes won’t do it for you. As long as
the organics remain substantially intact, the bacteria will simply propagate and
negate the small water change.>>
Fish:
2 Plecos (going to remove one, they are getting big) Had 9 neon tetras, now down
to 4 Bought 4 sword tails, all have died 3 Black skirt tetras 4 guppies (one
dying) 2 scissor tails 3 fish I don't remember the name of. They are silver with
red over their eyes and a wide black stripe on their tail (one has a mouth
fungus but still feeds well and one has what appears to be a tumor on it's side
but also feeds well).
<<Red-Eye Tetras, no doubt. Have kept these in the past myself. Nice little
fish. As to the mouth fungus, note that this also may be Columnaris which is not
a fungal infection at all but a bacterial infection. It presents itself
(unfortunately) like a fungus and is usually (also unfortunately) treated for as
such without success…for rather obvious reasons.>>
2 Mollies male and female (on a side note, I literally just put four fry in a
separator, so the female is having babies, pretty cool).
<<Very cool I’d say.>>
The female molly is clearly pregnant, but with only one male in the tank he
harasses her all the time. So I changed the tank around adding more fake plants
trying to give her hiding space. I want to add more females, but not until the
water situation straightens out.
<<You’re using your head on both counts.>>
I also removed one air pump as I had three and I wanted to make one side of the
tank less circulated than the other as they told me this would also help.
<<Okay.>>
I used TopFin water clarifier twice in an effort to clear the rest of the
cloudiness in the tank (I suspect that helped kill two more Neons and the
guppy). It made no visible change over 48 hours. On a side note, I have isolated
the guppy and one of the eyes is definitely popped out.
<<Skip the “clarifier”, Jason. Stressed fish don’t need chemicals thrown into
the system with them. Will potentially do more harm than good.>>
I have a two filter system, both filters were pretty dirty. I cleaned one and
replaced the other. I'm trying to do as little as possible, but I'm losing fish
right and left. I have lost 9 fish in one week???? I'm definitely doing
something wrong.
<<You’re on the right track, Jason, just not doing enough of it. You need to do
a massive water change (at least 80%-90%), rather than small ones, to rid the
tank of the organics and, therefore, the bacteria. If you don’t already use a
clean, 5-gallon bucket for your water changes, I highly recommend getting one.
Makes measuring out the salt far easier (one tablespoon per bucket) and not a
bad workout – though guys like us don’t really need it. :) >>
The remaining fish feed well are do not appear to be stressed. I'm thinking that
the multiple water changes were also not good for them?
<<Typically not but I’m letting you off the hook here. One concern with changing
water too frequently is that we can, under more typical water conditions, create
unwanted shifts in pH levels and overall water stability. In your case, I doubt
we could do that by dumping battery acid in the tank based on your alkalinity
readings. (That’s a joke. Don’t do that.)>>
I did clean the rocks significantly, not just skimming the top. Do you think I
removed too much bacteria?
<<Depends on how you “cleaned” your filter, Jason. Hopefully, the media was
rinsed in water removed from the tank. Tap water is a big (actually HUGE!) no-no
for cleaning the filter media. As to your question, specifically, you really
don’t want to vacuum more than one-third of the substrate at any given time. If
you were doing small changes (10%-20%) you couldn’t have gone too far wrong on
this count. You might look into purchasing BIO-Spira (Marineland) to jump-start
the filters/tank if you’re concerned that the bio-colonies have been adversely
affected by the cleanings. In fact, I recommend that you do this, anyway.>>
Suggestions or other questions? Please help!
<<Think I’ve given you enough to keep you busy, Jason. You know where you can
find us if there are other questions. Best of luck to you.>>
Jason
<<Tom>>
Re: Fish dying right and left... and no effort put into learning
1/25/07
Bob, appreciate the reply.
<Okay>
Follow up questions.
What are my options?
<...>
I had intended to build an all community fish tank,
<More to such an assemblage than their temperaments... read on WWM,
fishbase.org... elsewhere re the physical and chemical needs/ranges for the
species you list... They don't overlap in some (stated) cases>
don't care about plants. I understand that you can balance the salt requirements
of the mollies with the other fish, may be not?
<Not>
Should I back off the salt content slowly and gauge the reactions of the other
fish?
<Mmm, no. Really... you should READ... decide then what you want to do...
arrange a suitable habitat for truly compatible species>
And what do you suggest about clearing up the remaining cloudiness, time, water
changes?
<Posted...>
The Molly gave birth to about 40 fry which I have isolated and will do my best
to keep. They seem to be doing fine at this point.
I have a fairly large tank, 55 gallons. I just want to have a fair number of
healthy pretty fish, and I don't get very good advice at places like PetSmart or
PetCo.
<Then read>
Everything was fine until the plant stared to die from adding salt and I started
doing water changes in an attempt to clear up the cloudiness.
But adding the salt is what saved the Molly.
<...>
If I go with salt tolerant fish like Mollies, what other fish are compatible?
>>>>>
And can I kick start the metabolic processes that I have killed? Should I be
changing my carbon filters more/less often? Should I add the bacteria they sell
to help start new tanks? Should I continue to do 10% water changes fairly often?
You certainly have told me how I have killed everything. But I could still use
your help understanding what my options are and what suggestions you have.
Appreciate your help.
Jason
<All of this is archived on the site... learn to/use the indices, search tool.
RMF>
Re: Fish dying right and left (follow-up) 1/25/07
Bob,
<<Tom again, Jason.>>
Thanks so much for the reply, this is a huge help and makes perfect sense. I
left the plant in the tank much too long after it started losing leaves.
<<Do it to you almost every time, Jason.>>
On a side note, I have noticed decreased activity from the Plecos, although they
are still feeding. I believe I need to reduce the salt level slightly (and
slowly).
<<The large water change will allow you to get this squared away. Don’t
dilly-dally, though. We’ve got enough on our plates already.>>
My Molly had about 40 babies last evening, we captured all of them, so doing an
80%-90% water change will be tough but with my wife to help, we'll do it.
<<All you can do is your best. Not to sound cold about this but the fry are
expendable relative to the lives of the adults right now if “push comes to
shove.”>>
I know you are going to chastise me for this, but I have indeed been cleaning my
filters with tap water. :( I will immediately stop!
<<Consider yourself chastised. On the upside, you’re our one-millionth writer to
get caught doing this! There’s no prize for this, however. Sorry.>>
Thanks again for your help and I will let you know what happens over the
next week or two.
<<I’ll look forward to hearing from you, Jason. Direct your correspondence to my
name if you would. I’ve got poor Bob confused enough with this one. Good luck
with this. Tom>>
Re: TO TOM PLEASE - Re: Fish dying right and left (follow-up)
1/25/07
<<Hi, Jason.>>
So clearly I am getting responses from two sources, one nice, the other not so
nice, nor helpful.
<<Two sources, Jason. I have the luxury of long responses and the other source
knows more than I ever will...even given three lifetimes. :) >>
I wrote the attached diatribe because it pissed me off so much.
<<Happens, Jason. (Shake it off. You'll feel better.)>>
I don't want to create drama.
<<None created. Just men talking...>>
On the other hand, I'm trying desperately to save what I have as quickly as
possible and although READING (as he puts it) clearly makes sense, it's not the
quickest plan of attack.
<<Understood. I, and the others, try to handle the "quick" fixes. Mr. Fenner
wants you in this for the long haul, hence, his admonition to read/research. We
lose too many aquarists due to lack of information.>>
This thread has now become quite lengthy, but with the large water change last
evening, I think I have made some progress. We were able to handle the fry well
and they seem to be doing fine. There must be 40+ and I keep finding one here
and there in the tank.
<<Skampy little devils, aren't they?>>
Let's see if I can go a week without losing a fish and I will start cleaning the
filters in tank water.
<<Sounds good, Jason.>>
In any case, I appreciate your responses, they have been helpful.
<<I'm glad for this. As I told you, you know where to find me. Tom>>
Re: Fish dying right and left 1/25/07
<<Jason. Tom with you.>>
Wow, okay.
It seems like I got two replies yesterday to the same email.
<<You did. Sometimes happens that two people end up responding to the same post,
primarily because one nincompoop didn’t move the post to his in-box as he should
have. Guilty as charged.>>
One was filled with substantial information that was quite helpful and gave me
some good direction. The other was rather curt and quite frankly not very
helpful, very similar to this email.
<<When we overload the Boss with unanswered requests for help from our readers,
he becomes “terse”. Not his fault but ours.>>
This email appears to come from the first responder.
<<Yes.>>
Rather than offer me advice and help, you have essentially told me exactly what
you told me yesterday. That is, that I basically don't know what I'm doing and
that I should either go back to square one or give up. You also emphasize
READING which clearly makes sense. Although reading will obviously give me
substantially more information, in the short term, I am hoping to save what fish
I have and to improve the habitat as quickly as possible. That being the case,
my plan of attack was to ask someone whom I believed to be an expert and who in
the past has taken the time to give thought to my questions and respond with
genuine concern. I was hoping for a similar response this time. Instead, you
have directed me back to the site and tasked me with research and homework.
<<I won’t “defend” the response but I will defend Bob here, Jason. No one cares
more about the hobby, and life, than Bob. No one. And, no one is more involved
in helping folks with problems, whatever they might be. I understand your
reaction but, believe me, it’s misplaced. Gotta be on the “inside” to completely
understand, I’m afraid.>>
And although this might surprise, I have done a fair amount of reading. I have
also talked to many people. This may or may not also surprise you, but I tend to
get different information from just about every resource I explore. So figuring
out who is right and who and what sources are best appears to be extremely
difficult. As you have said, I need to READ.
<<Trust me, Jason, you’re singing our song! There isn’t one of us who doesn’t
“research” virtually every question. This ain’t “off-the-top-of-your-head” stuff
in many cases. Lots of it is, of course, but, in more cases than you might
think, we’ve got to dig. Just too many aspects of the hobby to have it all at
your fingertips. The trick is that we’ve learned “how” to research and, with
experience, weed the “bum” information out of the “good”.>>
I suspect that you get a lot of email from inexperienced and (probably sometimes
less intelligent) people who ask obvious questions. But what confuses me is the
fact that I got two replies to my initial email, one nice, the other not so
nice. Are there multiple people responding to emails? One email appears to be
from Bob the other from Tom???
<<There are many volunteers on our site, Jason. I’m just one of them.>>
Bob Fenner, who I believe is the first person I exchanged emails with over a
year ago was very helpful in helping me save one of my Mollies way back then.
<<I’m not the least bit surprised.>>
In any case, I will go back to your site and continue to explore. I will also
continue to READ and learn as much as I can. I certainly do not enjoy watching
my fish suffer and die. I would much rather have an attractive healthy tank that
is conducive the health of the fish.
For what it is worth, the second email I received yesterday suggested that I do
an 80 to 90% water change to clear the tank (and on a side note, the second
email also explained to me why I had caused the tank to become cloudy in the
first place). I did the water change last evening and it appears to have solved
the cloudiness issue. I also slightly reduced the salt content a bit making sure
to have no more that one tablespoon per 5 gallons. The Plecos were already more
active this morning.
<<Glad to hear this, Jason.>>
Finally, for your own information I have pasted below the two separate responses
that I received yesterday from the same initial email.
<<I saw both, Jason. Thank you.>>
I do appreciate you responses and your willingness to take the time to read and
think about the issues that people reading your site encounter. I have read many
threads that reference similar issues. My only concern I suppose is that it
appears that I (and others perhaps?) are getting responses from multiple
sources??
<<You are, Jason. Bob can’t handle it all. Far, far too much for one person.>>
In any case, at the very least the response I got from Tom (the second email)
did indeed give me good information and several suggestions for immediate action
as opposed to the suggestions in the first email which are do nothing, READ,
figure out what type of species I want to have and start over.
<<For what it’s worth, Jason, what you get from me is due to Bob Fenner. We all
“raise the bar” because of this man. Bob doesn’t demand it of us, we demand it
of ourselves because of his guidance and knowledge. We don't get paid, so that
ain't just fact, that's what God knows. ;) >>
Thanks for your time.
Jason
<<Any time, Jason, and I’m glad things seem to be improving for you. You know
where I am. Tom>>
For Jason, re Tom and Bob... Re: Fish dying right and left, encouraging
use of books, reading 1/27/07
Greetings Bob and Crew, I hope you are having a nice weekend.
<Thank you Nicole>
I couldn't help but send you my input on one of Friday's dailies questions.
<Okay>
Jason, a fairly inexperienced aquarist who is having trouble with his fish tank
(Fish dying right and left) mentioned that he was getting mixed information
about fishkeeping from people and the internet.
Might I suggest to him a few books?
<Please do>
"Encyclopedia of Aquarium and Pond Fish" by David Alderton
<A worthy writer in our field>
was checked out to me for something like 47 weeks from the library!
<Wow! A best-seller>
While I have never read it, the book that Jorie always recommends, "The Simple
Guide to Freshwater Aquariums" by David Boruchowitz, sounds right up his alley.
<Also a very nice fellow, good, clear writer>
Far from an idiot is the aquarist who reads Mike Wickham's "The Complete Idiot's
Guide to Freshwater Aquariums" - this is commonly available at libraries.
Jason may not know this, but even a rural library with a tiny collection can
order these and other titles for him through the nationwide Interlibrary Loan
System. So even if one looks in the 639.34 section of their local library and
sees nothing available - a title, an author, or an ISBN number is usually all
that is needed for the librarian to acquire the book of his choice from another
lending library somewhere in the U.S.
<Thank you for this reminder>
Jason, if you read this, think about how one book for $24.95 (that you can
probably borrow for free) has the potential to save you easily twice, three
times that, in unnecessary medication, additives, and lost livestock. You say
your tank is planted? Then all the more reason to educate yourself by having a
quality aquarium reference book around, that you can peruse when and where you
want to, anytime - without electricity, even! Bob and Tom are both helping you
in different ways. Bob urges all of his correspondents to self-educate and
doesn't want to reinvent the wheel by answering questions that he has already
answered, either by answering them previously or by having composed an article
wherein the answer lies. You are, admittedly, missing some basics, and that's
why he tells you to read, instead of giving you a quick fix to your problems in
the form of a set of action verbs.
<You are correct here... in my intention>
On the other hand, Tom appreciates the fact that you may not be able to easily
find the information you need to know without discouragement or delay and gives
you a more direct answer. He is absolutely correct that good information is
outnumbered by "bum information" - which is why reading a book is a perfect
solution, if you are not ready to hone your web research skills to save your
fish. For every bad book written about aquariums, there are probably 100 bad
aquarium websites that, if not misleading, are just plain uninformative.
<I concur>
If Google overwhelms you with hits, and people overwhelm you with conflicting
information - then, get yourself a BOOK! Or better yet, lots of books, for free
even, from your public library. Best of luck to you in your fishkeeping.
Thank you for posting this, if you do, and I understand completely if you don't.
I apologize if my "butting in" here is unwelcome, I do realize that WetWeb is
not a blog! *smile* I couldn't help it, the librarian in me was roused by this
particular correspondence that's been going on for a few days now. Take care,
all of you.
Nicole
<Thank you for your keen insight-sharing, coming forward. Will place in Tom's
in-folder as well. Bob Fenner>
Loading up a Non-Cycled Tank 1/21/07
Hello,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Thanks for taking the time to set up such a well rounded, helpful website first
off.
<Thanks a bunch!>
I have a 55 gallon tank which has been set up around two weeks. In that time
I've lost a ropefish, an angel fish, a blue Gourami and 2 rainbow fish. I was
thinking that it may just be the water cycling, so I did a 50% change but now I
have a serious problem. My female ropefish, Roxanne, refuses to eat. I've had
her in the tank for about a week and she has not ate one time. I feed everyone
else in the tank tropical flakes (there are currently 7 other fish: pink kissing
Gourami, 2 blue gouramis, one swordtail, one plec sucker fish and 2 rainbows)
and I feed her frozen bloodworms. I took the advice of others and fed her at
about midnight with the tank lights off but she just showed no interest. I
really don't want to lose her as I did my other, whom I might ad I never saw eat
anything either. Thanks for your help.
<You are definitely having a problem because you have fully stocked a non-cycled
tank. A big no-no in aquarium keeping. Here is some info for you to read:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library.php?cat=4
As for now, I suggest doing a huge (90%) water change & again tomorrow. Add
Bio-Spira to your filter ASAP. Be sure to use dechlorinator--I suggest
Prime. No other product, other than Bio-Spira, contain the live nitrification
bacteria (mentioned in the above link) that keeps your tank cycled. Fish do not
eat when they are unhappy. I think once you get the cycling issue straightened
out, they will be much happier. You can try live blackworms, if she still won't
eat.
Buy yourself a test kit & keep track of ammonia & nitrites (VERY toxic--should
be 0 at all times), nitrates, (should be <20) & pH (around 7.2). I also suggest
researching the adult size of some of your fish, especially the gouramis. I've
never been able to keep a ropefish for long--they can escape through the tiniest
hole in your top. ~PP>
Another question ... FW issues, no useful info. 1/21/07
Thank you so much for all of your help before. Our situation in my daughters
tank is now that the other platy has died also, with similar behavior. I went
and got some parasite treatment for the tank, but the blue platy seems to have
tons of energy and pep still, so I am not planning to treat the tank unless he
starts to show signs of lethargy and hiding like the others did. They also had
small red spots on their body. I thought that was coloring, but now I wonder if
it was a symptom.
<Too likely so... I would go ahead with the parasite treatment here>
I have added some water plants to her aquarium. One of the plants grew a large
clearish jelly blob by the roots. It looked like the stuff that grows on lily
pads and smelled like old flowers in a vase. (stinky!) My reaction was to wash
this off the plant and get it out of the tank but now I am wondering if I
destroyed a "good" bacteria colony!
<Mmm, no... Highly likely this was a snail egg mass... not useful>
The roots are brownish by where the blob was. The plants have only the aquarium
gravel (not natural, hot pink, my daughter is 7 and picked it out) and the pet
store woman said that would be fine. What do you think?
<Should be fine... likely the plant can/will derive some nutrition from
processed fish wastes, uneaten food...>
Also the plants are not looking great, some of the leaves are turning brownish.
Are they OK in the saltier waters that platys need or do you need more brackish
plants?
<Some plants are more tolerant than others... posted on WWM>
I have no idea what types of plants they are, the pet store only has a tank
called "live plants" and they don't know anything about them.
<How would I/we know then?>
Thank you so much again for all your help!
Best,
Mary Mathison
<More information, please... See WWM re FW water quality, env. disease. Bob
Fenner>
Ammonia Spikes Stress Goldfish
Hi, I will try to keep this short. I bought a 10 gallon tank and overloaded
it with 5 goldfish.
< Not a good idea.>
The evident happened with ammonia, so I went and purchased a 46 gallon. I lost 2
of them. Now the 10 gallon finished cycling (this is in a 2 month perimeter) the
46 kept having huge ammonia spikes like 8ppm for a week and I noticed one of my
favorite black moor's was doing poorly in the 46 gallon (clamped fins, laying at
the bottom of the tank just moving her lips to breathe). So I put her in the 10
gallon. She quickly picked up and was swimming all around the tank. Now this is
the second day and she is back to clamped fins and lying at the bottom of the
tank. She lays there until I come over and then she acts like she just woke up
from a dream and is trying to shake it off, and then goes back to the bottom.
Did I poison her possibly and is there anyway to help her? Or is she doomed to
die? She has been my little trooper through all the ammonia spikes and problems
I have had. I would hate to lose her. Thank you
< These ammonia spikes weaken fish and promote disease. I would recommend that
you do a 50% water change, vacuum the gravel and clean the filter. After that
add Bio-Spira from Marineland. Your tank should be stable in a couple of
days.-Chuck>
Overfeeding A Community Tank
Thanks for your reply. I have a few further questions.
I wrote this all up and it was forever long, so now I’m going to try to be
short, but it still isn’t very short. Sorry. We’re having feeding problems in
our 37 gallon tank (guppies, Neons, ADFs, angelicus Botia loaches). I think the
guppies are gorging themselves on our plants. Some of the plants are suffering
(mostly because some of the guppies enjoy grabbing the end of the plants and
literally jerking them while swimming backwards, which pulls some up), but
overall they’re bearing it. The guppies all have enlarged their stomachs since
joining the planted tank. They’re slowing down on their nibbling somewhat and
are mostly picking algae off. Since they’ve starting picking more at the algae
on the plants, they’ve also not appeared as interested in the flakes. If it was
just the guppies, I think we could get away with not feeding flakes at all, they
eat enough plant material, but I don’t think the Neons are eating the plants as
much and they still eat the flakes, which means the guppies eat those, too. I’m
almost afraid that the guppies are overeating, though none of them appear
constipated and they’re still having good, uh, bowel movements. Should we only
feed flakes once a day instead of twice? Would the Neons be alright? If they
don’t give any other indication of feeling ill, just have large stomachs, should
we not worry?
< The guppies feeding on the algae is normal. Feed your fish once a day and only
enough food so that all of it is gone in a couple of minutes. The other fish
will be more hungry and begin to come up to the flakes more aggressively. The
more they eat, the less flakes are available for the guppies.>
We feed our ADFs once a day, the frog/tadpole food, and they don’t appear to eat
them, but I’m assuming they’re eating something because they’re still alive
after about a month. We had problems with the guppies eating the frog food but
they don’t do that so much anymore since they’ve been gorging themselves on
plant material. We give half the flakes, let them eat those, then add a few
more flakes and add the frog food in another spot in the tank. But I’m not sure
that the frogs are eating them. I find leftovers occasionally, and I see fish
eating them an hour or so after I’ve dropped them, but again, the ADFs seem to
be doing well. They mostly hide during the day, probably because of our plant
lights, but they’re always out at night. They loved the brine shrimp. Is the
frozen brine shrimp nutritious enough for them to eat all the time? (See below
for more about our brine shrimp plans.)
< Feed them sinking pellets after you turn out the lights. At first drop in only
a couple until they begin to get use to them as food.>
We have three loaches. They mostly hide, but two come out and play pretty
often. The third, however, I have only seen once (other then his tail sticking
out of his hiding place). When I saw him, the other two loaches were swimming
circles along the side and he was sitting in the bottom. As soon as he saw me,
he ran and hid. There are quite a few hiding places, the ADFs use a lot of
different ones, including piling in with the loaches, but we’re adding more just
in case he doesn’t feel secure enough. We bought shrimp pellets, but they won’t
touch them. They just sit at the bottom and the guppies pick at them. Our tank
is heavily planted and it’s next to impossible to vacuum. I pick them out
sometimes, but I have to stand on the arm of the couch to do it and it’s still
hard. Will they deteriorate all right and act as fertilizer, or should we look
into a shrimp for cleanup?
< Leftover food with rot and increase the nitrates. Change food to one they will
consume while you are watching.>
We talked to the LFS last night and they said to drop them with other food they
like to teach them that it’s food. We tried white mosquito larvae last night
with no interest from them. The only thing we get them to eat is frozen brine
shrimp, which we’ve read isn’t the most nutritious for them, more like chips.
< Correct>
My husband’s working on a brine shrimp hatchery for more nutrition with the egg
sacs. But even then, only the two came out and I don’t think the third did. My
husband is up for most of the nights and he said he hasn’t seen the third loach,
either. Should we be worried? We saw him more in their quarantine tank and
didn’t see anything unusual (besides that they wouldn’t touch their food).
<Many loaches are shy and only come out at night. You have a heavily planted
tank so it may be awhile before you see him.>
Also, a few of our guppies fins almost look clamped, but not quite. We just
noticed this yesterday afternoon. My husband had added CO2 with a homemade soda
bottle thing and apparently our pH has dropped almost a point. It’s at 7.2
now. We were monitoring the pH and it dropped over a 24 hour period and has now
held constant (between 7.2 and 7.4) for a little over 24 hours and we think this
is where it’s going to stay. Was that too quick of a drop?
< Guppies like hard alkaline water with a little salt added to it. Plants
usually like soft acidic water with no salt. You have a conflict. Many plants
don't need CO2 although almost all will benefit from it. The pH drop is from the
CO@ adding carbonic acid to the water. When the CO2 is gone the pH should bounce
back up.>
I did a 30% water change after noticing the halfway clamped fins and they do
look better this morning.
< Probably diluted the CO2 and raised the pH.>
(There are only 5 of the 17 guppies we have doing this, but one is the male
lowest on the totem pole and usually has his fins low. All the rest are
females.) But if the pH of our tap water is higher, and it’s being lowered in
the aquarium because of the addition of CO2, is adding the water going to change
the pH of our system and then change as the new water is infused with CO2?
< You will have pH fluctuations when doing water changes.>
Is that going to be a shock?
< Big changes in pH are not tolerated well by many fish.>
Our water is filtered with a Living Water filtration system from EcoQuest and so
we don’t have to add anything to it and would really hate to add chemicals to it
in order to change the pH, but I don’t want to shock the fish. Would the drop
in the pH have caused the clamped fins, or should we look to another source?
< When fish are stressed they become susceptible to diseases. Try more frequent
but smaller water changes.>
Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate barely registering, probably 2 or 3, alkalinity
300. The same before and after the water change. With CO2 calculations, my
husband says this is a perfect amount of CO2 addition and doesn’t want to take
away any and won’t be adding any.
Thanks for your time*.again. Celeste
< CO2 is needed by many stem plants like Bacopa. Plants like Cryptocorynes and
swords will benefit from CO2 but I have found it is not needed.-Chuck>
Aquarium problems, FW, env. 1/11/07
I have a ten gallon tank running for the past three months and have lost
eight guppies in the course of a month.
<From?>
My ammonia and nitrate levels are at 0 and my ph is 7.0 I change my water and
vacuum once a week.
Since the loss of my fish I have started changing the water and vacuuming the
gravel twice a week.
<I'd reduce this to just once per week... What is it you're attempting to
accomplish by more frequent changing?>
My Cory catfish is not doing well now. I have one guppy left and him in my 10
gallon. The catfish is laying on his side and breathing heavy. He has no spots
on his body and was eating yesterday. Don't know what I am doing wrong with this
tank.
Please help.
<... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwmaint.htm
and the linked files above... I suspect you have fallen into the "cleanliness is
sterility" mind-frame... Not valid. Bob Fenner>
Lynda Williams
Re: FW high pH, Corydoras beh... need to find, match in the FW Dailies
1/12/06
Thanks for the speedy reply, but have another question.
<... please include prev. corr....>
You said the PH of 8.0 was a bit high, but its constant and never
shifts. Should I alter it a bit lower with chemicals?
<Possibly... I would just mix in some water (reverse osmosis likely) that has
less/no alkaline component to dilute, lower the pH>
Just mix in chemicals in the storage water of 7.0 PH and pour in to the tank?
<No... need to allow such pre-made water to set for a few days>
Also you think the high PH contributes to the Corys being pale?
<Yes, could very likely do so>
Thanks for your time, patience
<Do take a read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwph,alk.htm
and the linked files above where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>
Freezing Tank 12/20/06
<Hey Amanda, JustinN with you today.>
Hello I have an Ornate Bichir and recently had a power outage in the area.
Long Story short the water got very cold in the tank and I lost two of my Clown
Loaches and now it looks like I will lose my Bichir.
<I'm sorry for your losses>
He has one eye that is cloudy and half his face is white.
<Yes, does not sound good>
I did a water change to warm up the water to a normal temp and have gave him a
remedy that helps a multitude of things but nothing seems to be helping. Please
help if possible because he looks horrible and I feel horrible.
Thank you,
Amanda
<Well, Amanda, first things first: Run carbon, do water changes, get that
medication out of the water! Whatever it is, its not needed right now. Your
course of action may have been a bit too quick with the temperature adjustments,
but what's done is done. For future reference, you should bring up the
temperature difference gradually for the sake of your fishes. However, you were
doing well enough up until you added the unnecessary medications. The conditions
you speak of are due to the water quality issues that you already knew about,
and simply correcting them and waiting is/will be your best course of action.
Get those meds out of the water, feed foods treated with vitamin supplements and
possibly garlic extract to enhance feeding reaction, and keep up water quality.
Good luck, Amanda! -JustinN>
High Nitrites in FW Tank--Good Time to Add More Fish? 12/7/06
Okay Crew, I need some serious help!
<Hi Ashley, I'll do my best!>
I have a 55g tank, 14 "feeder" goldfish and now two small keyhole cichlids.
<You were full-up with the goldfish. In addition, GF require much cooler temps
than the cichlids & carry many diseases tropical fish can't handle.>
Before we put the cichlids in, the nitrites were already on their way up
<Ummm... so you bought MORE fish?>
and so we got some all over "cleaner" to get rid of it, since we can't seem to
find just a nitrite remover.
<No such thing as an "all over cleaner" or a nitrite remover. The only way to
remove nitrates is with huge water changes or by adding Bio-Spira, to cycle the
tank. Do not let someone sell you any different product, claiming it will do
the same thing.>
We've barely had the tank over a week and we're going to do a 50% water swap
(I'd do more but I don't want to cause more stress on my poor fishies).
<Water changes done regularly, no matter how large (I do 80% weekly on all my FW
tanks), will not stress your fish, as long as you use dechlorinator (I suggest
Prime) & fill with the same temperature water.>
Today was also the day we didn't feed the fish to allow for
digestion as suggested and we're also considering giving some of the fish a "new
bowl" to swim in as much as it breaks our hearts.
<You can only keep either the GF or cichlids. Not both together.>
We don't want them all to die though.
<Me either!>
How often should the tank be cleaned?
<Most serious GF keepers, do 90% weekly water changes on their tanks, because
they are messy, high-ammonia/waste producers. Eventually, your GF will require
30g each, as they grow to around a foot. They can also live 25+ years, if kept
properly.
What can we do!
Can you get just nitrite remover?
<Repeat after me, "The solution, to pollution is dilution!"
Please read this:
http://www.thepufferforum.com/forum/library.php?p=9
Please help, the test strip says the nitrite's are at high stress - low danger,
so please, please please, save my fish.
<You are getting sleepy... you only hear the sound of my voice... you must do
water changes... water changes... water changes... water changes... (I feel like
a broken record.) Please do yourself & your fish a favor & read all the
articles in the Aqua Science & Water Filtration sections of that Library. Great
info there! ~PP>
Thanks so much, Ashley
Yikes! Induced, env. disease, toxic treatments, the value of knowledge in
action 12/5/06
I know you probably get a billion e-mails a day about fish diseases, but
I've been looking for the better part of an hour and I can't seem to find a
concrete answer. You guys (and gals) seem like a really great group, I was
wondering if you could help me out. I recently bought a ten-gallon aquarium with
a Top Fin filter and a heater and stocked it with a few guppies, two balloon
mollies, a regular old black molly, and a two baby Plecos, with plans to buy a
bigger tank once they grow.
<This tank was... established/cycled ahead of the livestock placement?>
I probably bought them earlier than I should, not knowing that it took so long
for a tank to cycle.
<Mmm, the process/es can be sped up...>
But they all seemed fine, until four weeks later when one guppy died. I put in
extra aquarium salt
<The Pleco doesn't "like" salt/s...>
to reduce the stress (but wasn't aware of the ammonia problem).
<Yikes... oh, I see we're using the same expression>
Still, everything was fine, weeks went by and I was doing 25% water changes
every week and a half. But this afternoon I took the gravel out to clean
<? Out... to clean? Not a good practice... better to gingerly vacuum on a
regular basis, along with partial water changes>
because it was getting messy, put the fish in another tank, put them back,
checked
the water, everything was fine. Later this evening I went up to check on them
and my cobra guppy was dead on the top. So I checked the ammonia levels with a
test strip and they were at 10.
<Yeeikes! One ppm is deadly... ten?!>
Did an immediate 30% water change, checked it again and it was still high but a
little better. I put in more aquarium salt not knowing what else to do and then
noticed that my black balloon molly had white spots. I checked it out and I'm
pretty sure that it's Ich, not Velvet.
<Likely so... Oodinium is hard to make out on dark-colored fishes>
I know it's not treatable until the white spots fall off and go into the next
stage,
<Mmm... well... most treatments are "proteinaceous precipitants"... along with
other possible action, they irritate the fish hosts to secrete more mucus, shed
the not-too embedded encysted stage/s>
so I quarantined her
<Ahh... the system is infested... all fishes need to be treated>
in a little bowl with some gravel and a few grains of salt to help her cope with
the stress. My question (after all this) is do I still treat the whole tank with
QuickCure,
<Not my first choice... the Formalin component is too toxic... see WWM Re...>
since I don't see white spots on any of the other fish, or do you think they
might already be cycling in the tank and I'm screwed?
<Your washing the gravel likely bumped off the biological filtration...>
I'm really worried about the Plecos, who don't show any signs yet. Do you think
it would be ok to move them in
with my fancy goldfish, who are in a separate tank? Or is that too risky for
them, too?
Please help, I feel so bad for letting em down,
- Kim V.
<You need... to read... your answers to these and a myriad of necessary
information you're not yet aware of is posted on WWM... Please start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
and on to the linked files at top, in-text... and soon. Bob Fenner>
Sudden High pH Fish are Dying 11/16/06
Hi Crew.
<Corianne>
I am so appreciative of this website and all your experience.
<On behalf of all here at WWM, thank you!>
There are times I even travel to the LFS only to find they don't hold a candle
to your knowledge! Such as is the case with me in the last two weeks.
<Not trying to say we at WWM know everything, but I can tell you that the vast
majority of LFS owners have competing interests (e.g., selling fish, dry goods,
etc.) and don't always give the most objective advice. I highly recommend doing
your own independent research through books, websites, forums, etc. prior to
relying solely on any LFS' advice.>
My tank is Eclipse 3, 26 gallon fresh water with 0 ammonia, trace (less than .5)
nitrates and normally a PH of about 7.6-7.8.
<A bit confused by the "Eclipse 3" label - I have two of those tanks that
contain, well, only 3 gallons of water! You specifically say 26 gallons of H20,
so I will presume this to be the size tank you have. Your water conditions look
fine; you may want to periodically check nitrites in addition to ammonia and
nitrates, though, just to be sure.>
I am pretty anal about my water conditions and perform weekly 25-30% water
changes with gravel vacuum.
<Wonderful!!>
My livestock consists of 7 Serpae Tetras, 5 zebra danios (long-finned), three
green Corys and until recently 2 dwarf golden gouramis. My tank has-been
established since July of this year.
<Sounds nice - sorry for the recent losses>
My gouramis developed what looked like a parasite infection on their side. It
started as a sore and then began to be covered with white cotton-like substance.
<Mmmmmm, sounds like fungus, rather than parasites. Do an image-search for
"cotton-wool" or "fungus" and "freshwater aquarium" and see if you can match
pics to what you discovered in your tank. Also, could have been an injury that
became secondarily infected?>
After research of your site and trip to LFS, it was felt it was
something that Pima Fix would help. I had read what you had written on the site
about this product and decided to try it. After removing carbon filter and
treating with 2 tsp daily for 5 days, both Gouramis were healing. Then, one of
my zebra danios began to exhibit what looked like a curved spine and eventually
died. I performed a water change and lost:
2 Gouramis
1 serpae tetra
1 zebra danios
All yesterday.
<For all your fastidiousness in keeping the tank water so clean, you likely
killed your nitrogen cycle by adding medication directly to the tank. Never,
ever EVER medicate the main tank - EVER. Even when all the fish are sick - you
still want to use a hospital tank to medicate, and allow your main tank to run
fallow) The only thing I can and do recommend doing to the main tank is
installing and running a UV sterilizer - and there's mixed views of that.>
I checked water again and readings are as above EXCEPT, all of a sudden my PH
went from 7.4 to 8.8+. I am assuming this is due to the Pima Fix but I am
frantic that my remaining livestock will suffer or die.
<I agree with your assessment. Get that medication out of the main tank, ASAP,
through water changes. Put the carbon filtration back in. The remaining fish -
are they visibly ill? If so, then you will need to isolate into a hospital
tank. Since you've described a couple of various symptoms affecting fish
(fungus or bacterial infection in the Gourami, and what sounds to be "neon tetra
disease" in the danio (this is caused by parasites, but unfortunately, there's
no known cure), I might recommend starting with a broad spectrum antibiotic like
erythromycin, if medication is still necessary. With regards to the main tank,
make sure the water conditions are very clean, and you want to reduce the pH,
obviously, which I think will be accomplished by removing the medication. Try
enhancing the food you feed with vitamins or garlic oil to help boost the
remaining fish's immune systems. Keep a watchful eye, best you can do right
now.>
Any advice?
<As per above. Hope I've helped.>
Corianne Durkee
<Jorie>
Re: Sudden High pH Fish are Dying - PART 3 11/16/06
Hi Jorie, so sorry about caps, was frantic!
<That's OK - I understand!>
Yes, my tank is 26 gallons Eclipse II.
<Excellent.>
Water stats this AM are:
Ammonia 0ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 10 ppm
PH 7.8 ppm
Temp 80
<All good. Keep a close watch, though, as your cycle will likely have to
re-establish itself, as a result of the PimaFix (as discussed before).>
This is after the 25% change last night.
<Great.>
So far, remaining livestock look OK, swimming actively and eating.
<Sounds very good - with proper immune systems, fish can be quite resilient. Do
be sure to feed quality food (frozen bloodworms, mysis, pellets, alternatively)
to keep everyone healthy.
Thanks again for all your help, will update you.
<You're welcome. Hopefully you're over the worst of it and things will continue
to improve!>
Corianne Durkee
<Jorie>
Basics of setting up a new freshwater aquarium
– 11/15/06
My 11 year-old son has had a ten gallon freshwater tank for two years. He has
had severe difficulty getting fish to survive more than a few months.
<Sounds like water quality issues - has he/you ever tested the water for
ammonia, nitrite and nitrates? My guess is that the tank never "cycled" and the
fish were poisoned from one or more of the toxins listed above. If you don't
have a quality liquid test kit, I recommend investing in one prior to adding any
more livestock - I use the one from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals and find it
reliable, easy to read, etc. Read here for some basic info. on establishing a
nitrogen cycle and setting up a successful freshwater aquarium:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
Another helpful resource is "A Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums" by David E.
Boruchowitz - I recommend reading these, plus other sources, prior to adding any
more fish to the system.>
He has had swordfish, barbs, zebras, Neons, glass cats, plecostomus, a beta, an
iridescent shark, gouramis and Corydoras catfish.
<Hopefully not all these fish at the same time?! Do be sure to research fish
prior to adding them, to ensure their requirements can be and are met. The
beta, for instance, likes very warm water (80-82 degrees F) and doesn't fare
well with "nippy" tankmates such as barbs, and the Pleco, if one of the "common"
ones, can grow up to 18" long! Best to pick one fish that you want in the setup,
then plan the rest of the tank around what other fish are compatible with it. Of
course, you must always keep the size of the tank in mind- a 10 gal. is not a
sufficient home for either a Pleco or the iridescent sharks...>
The filtration system is a "Whisper filter" which has cartridges that you
replace every few weeks. We recently added an air stone since I felt there
wasn't enough oxygenation and aeration with the filter alone.
<The airstone certainly can't hurt, and the filtration should be fine, so long
as the tank isn't overstocked. In a 10 gal., you could perhaps keep three
emerald Corys, for instance (they like to be kept in groups) along with a few
barbs; alternatively, a beta, with other peaceful tankmates that also enjoy warm
waters. I again recommend the "Simple Guide" book for a helpful look at what
species do well together and some sample stocking schemes (do be aware, though,
that I personally think the author overstocks his tanks...best to err on the
side of caution and have fewer fish, to avoid pollution of the water...>
At the moment the tank is empty as the last fish has died. Can you recommend a
course of action for restocking the tank (what
type of fish, how many, when to add them, etc.)? Many thanks in advance.
<I recommend establish a cycle without fish, as per the article linked above. I
simply use a bit of fish food and monitor the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate
levels until each has spiked, then reduced. You can search for "fishless cycle"
and "aquarium" on google and find lots of info. there. While the tank is
cycling, read and research, determine what fish you want to keep and come up
with a stocking scheme. Then, once the tank has cycled, you can add your first
fish/couple of fish (same species, if you are going that route). You then allow
those new fish to settle in, all the while monitoring the ammonia, nitrite and
nitrates, doing regular water changes, etc. After a couple of months with no
problems, you can then purchase your next fish - always remembering to
quarantine the "newbies" so that they don't bring in any disease. Never
overfeed (only what the fish can eat in 3-5 minutes, once or twice per day), do
regular weekly water changes (once the cycle has established). There are lots of
useful articles here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsetupindex.htm
, as well as other places on the 'net, plus bookstores, libraries, etc. Lots
and lots of info. out there - best to read first, have a well-thought-out plan -
will minimize fish suffering and deaths.>
Stephen DeFilippis
<Good luck and enjoy the hobby! Jorie>
Gold fish problems (obviously)... BiOrb metabolite poisoning incident/s
- 11/13/06
Hi
I hope you can help me. I have a Biorb tank
<These tanks are unsuitable for keeping goldfish... too small,
under-filtered...>
and have 1 gold fantail and I just bought a black googly( not a technical term!)
fan tail yesterday. I did all the usual introductory procedures and it was
happily feeding and swimming last night. When I came down this morning it is
lying on some of the tank weed on it's side and just flopped over. It is very
strange.
<Mmm, define "strange"... is actually quite common... to the point of being
expected>
The other one is perfectly fit and well.
<Not for long>
I have had fish in this tank for many years successfully and cannot understand
why this has happened. I had another back fan tail in there last week but he
died of swim bladder disease. I did a water change before I put the fish back
into the tank just in case.
Can you please tell me what to do I don't want to lose another one my daughter
will be devastated.
I am eagerly awaiting your reply.
Thank you
Carole
From England
<Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm
and the FAQs files linked above.
Tank Going Bad - Wrong Fish Combination - 11/13/06
Hey there, I am having problems with my fish tank and I am unable to
determine what the problem is. I was hoping you might be able to help. Let me
preclude this by saying that we have never had any problems with water quality
and test if regularly to make sure.
I have had to Orandas, 2 panda Cory catfish, on Pleco and some snails in a tank
for the past year and all have thrived. About 2 months ago we had a catfish die
- it looked like it may have been injured (I thought probably by the Pleco who
will whap the others when they get too close sometimes). Now I wonder if it
might have been sick.
We added a plant to the tank that week - Elodea or something like that...
One month ago one of our Orandas who we had had for 3 years (was in a smaller
tank for 2 years alone before adding the other fish a year ago) started having
trouble swimming and started bumping into things and had buoyancy issues. It
started having trouble digging through the pebbles for food, and lacked the
motor control to even get the food when it was floating down towards the
bottom. The fish started turning black around it's bum and we put it in a nurse
tank. I emailed for advice and was told it was probably congenital or
recovering from an injury. The fish, originally all orange, continued to turn
black (not a healthy black) and 3 days later was mostly black and dead. We
removed the plant when the fish died as it wasn't doing very well.
The others in the tank were doing great and a week later we added a new panda
Cory catfish and 3 small goldfish (all together not as big as the one we had
lost) with plans to get a bigger tank in a few months as they reached a bigger
size.
Yesterday, our other mature Oranda started acting funny - less mobile than
normal which is funny because he has always been a very mobile and aggressive
fish. Today we found him going the way of the last Oranda - floating on his
side at the bottom of the tank, poor mobility and trouble getting food. Also,
he is turning orange/red at the bass of his dorsal fin and his tail fins are
getting frayed. Also, we found our Pleco - who seemed fine yesterday - dead.
All 3 small remaining goldfish and the 2 catfish seem fine.
Water quality is still great, so it must be some sort of bacteria or
infection... right??? We want to get some sort of medication for the fish in
the nurse tank though I don't think he has much hope at this point. What type
of medication should we get though? And should we be adding medication to the
tank of the healthy fish to try to prevent this from happening again? It seems
that once this infection hits it kills them pretty quick and it has been hard to
catch in the early stages. Thanks for your time. Matt
< The goldfish are cool water fish and prefer water temps in the upper 60's.
The catfish and Pleco are tropical fish and prefer water in the upper 70's to
low 80's. Sounds like your tank was on the cool side and it was just a matter of
time before the catfish and Pleco would die. When they are getting sick they can
spread diseases to the other fish and make them sick. When a fish dies there is
a big spike in the ammonia which further stresses the fish, making them more
susceptible to infections. Try using weather loaches instead of Cory catfish next
time.-Chuck.>
Molly environmental disease? - 11/02/06
Dear Crew
<Kyleigh>
My red wag molly is losing her color. Would it be ick? Could it be something
else?
<Could be either/neither/both>
What are common reasons why they lose color?
<Most often unsuitable environment... but due to social dynamic, general
stress...>
She sometimes swims horizontally and has a hard time swimming up. My dad put in
Mollie Bright and Melafix that contains Melaleuca today so not sure if there has
been enough time for it to help her. The water levels are all fine, we had them
checked today. The other fish seem fine. She's in a 10 gal tank with 3 neon
tetras and 3 danios that were added 1 month ago.
<Mmm, molly species like very different water than Neons... hard, alkaline of
moderate temperature:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mollysysfaqs.htm
You may need to choose which type of environment... or two you want to
provide... and choose suitable/suited livestock from there. Bob Fenner>
Thanks in advance
Kyleigh
Cracked Tank Tragedy 10/27/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
The unthinkable happened a few nights ago to my tank that held a suckerfish,
blue eyed cichlid about a year old), three tiger barbs and two foil barbs. The
bottom of the tank had cracked and by the time it was discovered it was
completely drained.
<Oh my, what a nightmare!>
It was discovered that the tank had a fault in it to begin with and the stand
improper. All the smaller tropicals were found dead, the sucker fish and cichlid
barely alive. They were transported by the building manager to a small bowl of
water without a heater for about 2 hours before we got the message, unsure of
how long they had been there without water already.
<Nice manager!>
We quickly set up our emergency 10 gallon for the cichlid and sucker and then
bought a replacement tank (72 gals) with a suitable stand which is being
prepared now. We're cycling it quickly by using treated tap water, water from
another tank, the ten gallon, the old filter and a few small healthy fish. Is
this the right thing to do? The sucker fish was already moved over last night
with the few smaller fish (danios) from another tank and are doing fine in the
new tank. The cichlid will be transported shortly once we set up adequate hiding
spaces and test the water.
<With Bio-Spira, you can instantly cycle the tank. After adding it to your
filter, you can safely add your fish. If you can't find it locally, these guys
ship to CAN:
http://fishstoretn.com/bio_spira.html >
The cichlid has hardly eaten since the trauma. She has accepted a few bloodworms
but most have gone untouched. Her stripes are really dark and she hasn't moved
from her hiding spot in the 10 gallon at all today and is paddling her fins very
quickly.
<Can you blame her? She's really been through quite a trauma!>
We are used to seeing her colours bright, having her greet us. Yesterday, she
had expressed some normal behaviors, such as digging and exploring the tank,
although still terrified of the sight of people after the trauma. Today she
suddenly seems to be more stressed out and hasn't made any effort to eat or move
around the tank. My question is how can we help her de-stress and get
nutrition?
<Sounds like she'll get better with time. Be sure to keep her water
pristine
(lots of water changes) & the traffic by the tank to a minimum--maybe not even
turning on the light for a few days.>
Is it okay to move her now or will that create too much stress for her to handle
right now? Are there adjustments we can make to the water in regards to
temperature to promote healing and appetite?
<I'd get that Bio-Spira, so you can put her in the larger tank. That will be
less stressful for her & keep the water parameters in check.>
She seems to have sustained little physical trauma except for a scratch on one
eye, is there something to help that?
<Melafix should help heal that.>
What is her ideal temperature?
<78-82F>
Are there any additives, medicines or supplements we can put in the water to
help with distressing, healing and to get her nutrition while she isn't eating?
<In addition to the Melafix, you could soak her food in garlic juice, to enhance
appetite.>
Do three day fish feeders provide enough nutrition to sustain her for a while?
<I am totally against feeding fish to other fish. They can carry diseases to
your fish & there are much more nutritious foods to feed your fish. Worms,
krill, plankton, flake foods, pellets & even crickets.>
We've grown quite attached to this smart, interactive and friendly fish and
don't want to lose her. The other survivor seems strong and healthy but this one
seems to be struggling, although still holding on. Please help with any
suggestions.
<Good luck, I think they'll pull through. ~PP>
Christal and Trevor
Regina, SK, Canada
Goodness me... bring in another victim of FW Env. Dis.! 10/26/06
I have one small silver dollar in a 30 gal tank that seems to have tail and
fin rot starting...
<Usually caused by poor environmental conditions. What are the ammonia, nitrite
and nitrate readings on this tank's water? Ammonia and nitrite MUST be at ZERO;
nitrate can be as high as 20 ppm, but ideally lower. Do you regularly perform
water changes on this tank and when was the last time you did so?>
...what can I treat him with (2 silver dollars, 2 gourami's
and a Pleco in the tank)? Do I need to remove my carbon filter when I treat
the tank. I just bought these fish yesterday.
<OK - first things first. Did you buy all these fish yesterday? Do you have any
experience with tropical fishkeeping? Read here for important beginner's
information:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/taptrtmnt.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm
I suggest you separate the sick fish from the rest - you NEVER want to medicate
your main tank, and you don't want to proactively medicate fish that aren't
ill. Read the info. I've provided - my guess is that the problem will resolve
itself with proper water quality and other environmental conditions...
Also, I highly recommend a book by David E. Boruchowitz entitled "A Simple Guide
to Freshwater Aquariums" for beginners - very useful, easy-to-understand
information about establishing the nitrogen cycle, keeping fish healthy, and
treating if/when necessary.>
Thanks for your help
<You're welcome. Now it's time for you to read and research, and help yourself
and your fish! Best of luck, Jorie>
Kelli
<And further, when medicating, yes, you do generally need to remove carbon
filtration, as it will only "suck-up" the medication. Please note that since you
say the tail/fin rot has just begun, I don't recommend medicating at this stage,
just improving water conditions as per the articles attached below. Best,
Jorie>
Betta and Synodontis Catfish 10/23/06
Hi guys,
<Well hello there, this is Jorie>
I've had a good read but cannot find what I
need, I'll try and be specific: 6 months ago inherited a 15L tank
containing 2 Synodontis Petricola Cats, 1 Peckoltia and 1 Banjo Cat.
<Far too small for the inhabitants listed...I believe 15 litres equal
approx. 3.9 U.S. gallons...this is a small tank!>
I have recently upgraded to a 75Ltank with heater, mechanical/bio filter
with trickle bar across the top of the tank.
<Outstanding improvement, but still under 20 U.S. gallons...still not a
huge tank.>
This does not create too much aggressive water movement but good
aeration. My tank has been running for a few weeks with filter media,
plants and water introduced from 15L to help cycle.
<Good.>
I introduced the cats a week ago and water quality had been consistently
nitrates& nitrites 0, pH 7 temp 78-80.
<Sounds good.>
Yesterday I bought an awesome Betta, some neon tetras and platies.
<How many of each? Hopefully not too many...also, if you introduced all
these at once, hopefully you are carefully monitoring the ammonia,
nitrite and nitrate levels...this is a significant increase in the
bio-load.>
After discussion with the woman in the pet store (very reputable have
bought many goldies safely from there) I bought this particular Betta
as she said he was very active. After acclimatizing all fish over 1
hour he seemed fine not aggressive towards any other fish, and yes,
very active.
<No matter how reputable the store, you should *always* quarantine new
arrivals...just learned this (again) myself the hard way
recently...destroyed an entire tank I had set-up for over a year...>
I checked all fish this morning no one looked bitten; however when I
came home from work tonight I notice that the Betta looks a little
nibbled and VERY listless compared to his performance yesterday. He also
seems to have lost a patch of colour on his back (see photo) which seems
to be spreading albeit slowly.
<Check water parameters ASAP if you haven't already - a water change is
likely in order...>
I have also noticed the Synodontis taking an interest in his tail but
they do not seem to be terrorizing him (as far as I can see).
<Define "taking an interest"? Livebearers, including platies, can
sometimes be aggressive...just had an experience where I had to move a
female molly to a tank all by herself, as she is a holy-terror...>
Parameters are all still the same, N's 0, pH7, temp 78 -80
<OK good...>
I have added aquarium tonic (King British salt solution) after reading
up on your pages but is there anything else I can do?
<I presume this is similar to aquarium salt? Am not familiar with the
product, per se...>
He's such a beauty I really don't want to lose him so early on!!
<I understand.>
I should have QT'd the fish, I know, but I've never had a problem with
this store before (however, am a bit new to the tropical thing).
<We all make mistakes - as an almost 5-yr. veteran, I made a pretty
stupid one myself not too long ago...all you can do is learn from the
past at this point.>
Should I move him to another tank? Haven't got a set up tank so would be
uncycled, if so?
<I would suggest putting the Betta into his own tank, yes. I myself
give both my male Bettas his own 3-gal. Eclipse tank...complete with
filtration, heater, etc. It sounds to me as though your water
parameters are good, and the problem is that the Betta is being
harassed...could be the cat you mention above, could be the
platies...hard to say for sure. What I can almost positively say is
that someone is picking on him...best to isolate, keep warm (at least 80
degrees F), feed quality food and monitor for any signs of further
illness. When a fish gets stressed, it lowers its immune system, making
it more susceptible to disease...>
Sorry for the bombardment of info just a bit panicked!!
<No worries - the more info. the better...>
Many thanks for any help you can give me!
<You are welcome! Jorie> |
|
 |
Aquarium Help... Killing fishes in uncycled FW systems
10/1/06
I bought a 5 gallon tank (four weeks ago) to make a nicer home for my son's
Betta fish. Long story short I bought additional fish - ended up overstocking
the tank and lost six of the fish. I bought an another identical 5 gallon tank
(3 weeks ago) and transferred the Betta - which
has since died.
<...?>
I am down to three fish (a molly, a tetras, and a catfish) in the original tank
and none in the second. My problem is, my ammonia levels in my tanks refuses to
go down.
<Cycling takes time...>
My molly just had babies -
I'm not sure how many she originally had but I am down to one now. (I don't
have a net and I'm not sure what the baby is eating but the petstore said my
tank was too small for a net and to let it alone.) I have aquarium salt (1 tsp
in each tank once a week), I have a bacterial balls in each tank,
<These could very well be forestalling the establishment of cycling...>
I use Cycle
<Not a consistently useful product... Marineland's BioSpira is far superior>
(one capful per week) and I treat the tank with fish for ick every day. I have
done 100% water changes in both tanks
<Also a poor idea>
and 50% to 80% subsequent changes in the last two weeks since. Every time I do
any type of water change my fish get ick.
<Bingo...>
I am afraid to do it too often for fear I may suck up the baby or create too
much ick (plus the petstore told me to let the tanks be so they could run the
cycle).
<Ah, yes... good advice>
I don't have a testing kit
<A worthwhile purchase>
but I take my water to the petstore once a week to be tested.
<Water changes in transit...>
My ammonia levels are not going down and my nitrate levels are only increasing
slightly. Both tanks have whisper filters in them and I haven't rinsed off the
good bacteria. In the beginning I know I was overfeeding but have since learned
my lesson and only feed a few flakes a day once a day. Is there anything
additional I can or should be doing to lower the ammonia level?
<Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above. Your answers and more that you need to know are
posted there. Bob Fenner>
Clown Loach and Bristlenose Troubles... Actually iatrogenic problems,
ignorance, lack of self-reliance... in killing freshwater fishes 9/25/06
Hello WWM helping elves,
<Where's Santa?>
I am having some troubles with my fish. I seem to have a slow but steady
mortality rate. I have a 28L tank (sorry, not sure what that is in gallons).
<... dismal. Look it up...>
It has been up an running with fish for 5 months now,
<... in six-seven or so gallons...>
but there seems to be a consistent pattern that has evolved in regards to my
fish and their lifespans.
We started with 2 goldfish, to get the tank cycled and happy.
<A poor idea>
When our LFS man gave us the all clear (he is strict with us) he allowed us to
get some tropical fish.
<With pathogens already installed by way of your goldfish adventure...>
We have been gradually adding to the tank till now to get a nice community
tank. The 2 goldfish have been given away as there was not so much room as
before. We have 1blue and 1 golden gourami, a smallish angel fish, a bristle
nose catfish and 2 clown loaches.
<These are too much, way too much for this small volume>
The trouble with the fish is that we are now onto our 3rd catfish, and as of
this morning I only have 1 clown loach. For all 3 fish that have died, there
has been a similar pattern. All have stopped eating, then after 3 days of their
hunger strike their tummies bloat, then this goes away the next day, then they
die the day after. Both the catfish only lived for 3 weeks, and the clown loach
died 3 weeks after my last catfish.
<Ultra dismal... I'm changing my mind, opinion>
For the catfish, they just stopped licking the glass, and the clown loach took
to swimming upside down near the spray bar pipe - constantly.
<Environmental...>
I have had my
LFS man check my water for everything (I think he dreads every time I walk
through the door),
<I would as well...>
and he says that my water is perfect for the fish that I have and commented that
if my latest catfish died it was a factor he cannot test for. To make me feel
better, he has given me a slightly bigger catfish this time in the hopes that it
is more hardy.
<... the opposite here...>
I feed them a combination of dried food, blood worms (once a week), algae wafers
and a little piece of zucchini every now and then. I do monthly water changes
of 10% with good water, and keep check on the basic water condition weekly.
I am aware that a 28L tank is not very big,
<Bingo>
and am wondering if clown loaches are the best choice with the other fish.
<Nope... poor choices...>
I purchased 2 as they are social fish, but have read that odd numbers are
better. At this time the remaining one I have is small. Should I get 2 friends
for it, or should I change the type of fish, or will one more be enough. I will
eventually get a bigger tank, so the fact that they grow has been accounted for,
however I would like to know what is best for now and would first very much like
them to stop dying.
I don't know where I am going wrong, and would like some help before I replace
my little one.
Ta, from Cian
<... Let's see... your real problem is rooted in the too-small world for the
species you list. It cannot support this type of life, density... The
Bristlenose Loricariids need volumes of three, four plus size to survive... Tiny
volumes of water are too inherently unstable to provide proper environments...
You might look into much smaller (ultimately) species... Next, your system is
very likely infested with some sort/s of disease organisms from the goldfish
period... Next, your reliance on others for the care you can only provide is
short-sighted to use a kind term... Lastly, the answers to the "present
situation" you find yourself the maker/keeper of are of your own ignorance and
lack of research... Consider what you want to do, educate yourself, then act...
BobF>
Hot Weather + No AC = Tank Problems 9/20/06
Good afternoon everyone. Around noon, air conditioning was
restored to my apartment here in FL. I first discovered the A/C had
given out when I came home from work
yesterday, around 6. Someone came to investigate a couple of hours
later, but function was not restored to the unit until today.
I have a 29 gal African cichlid tank with 3 large cichlids and an
algae eater, and a community tank (CT) of the same size with a few
tetras, two brilliant rasboras, two cories (one big, one little) and
a Bristlenose pleco. The only misfit here is a Boesemanni rainbow.
I did everything I could yesterday to bring the water temperature
down. I added an extra airstone. I blew a fan across the open top of
the tanks, dropped an ice pack in each tank - the kind that can be
either frozen for ice or microwaved for heat. I could feel that the
tanks were the temperature of tea that had been allowed to cool...!
The thermometer in the CT read 90 degrees (the hottest room, facing
the sun)... I was completely panic stricken!
When the air came back on, I turned the lights on and looked
closely...I thought everyone looked bright, had that healthy, glossy
look. The cichlids seemed lethargic but are acting normally now.
Everyone ate heartily. Unfortunately, as I was doing a water change
in the CT, I noticed my Synodontis nigriventris had expired. He was
always hard to spot, usually camouflaged with the driftwood,
identical in color to himself. I was horrified to see him bone white
and beginning to spoil...I felt so guilty for not noticing him until
just now! I changed 3 gallons of water (more to come tomorrow, I
don't want to stress the fish further) and added the recommended
dosage of Melafix as a prophylactic measure. Should I add this to
the cichlid tank as well?
< I would not recommend it.>
Nothing seems out of the ordinary in there.
Is there anything else I can do?
< High water temps causes stress and stress may lead to disease.
Keep a close eye on things for a couple of weeks. You may not be out
of the woods yet.>
I am certain no one else is dead, but the cories are not their usual
poking around selves. The two of them have spent hours hanging out
in their favorite corner. The top fin of
the big one might be a little frayed, but it could just be my
imagination. I hate to think of the way the upside down catfish
perished, but I can only imagine how uncomfortable a 12 degree
increase in temp was for everyone in both tanks. Could I have done
anything else to "keep cool"? (Hurricane season still isn't over.)
<When the power goes out the tanks tops circulating. The oxygen
carrying capacity of the water goes down as the water temps
increase. You need more water circulation but without power you
can't do anything except to do a water change to keep the
temperature under control. You can go to a computer store and get an
emergency battery pack. These are used to keep computers powered up
in case the power goes out. They work very well to power an airpump
for awhile too. Check online or at bait shops for battery powered
air pumps.>
The community tank is filtered with peat, and an Aquaclear power
filter with a carbon/resin pouch and a ceramic ring/sponge combo.
Any filtration I should add or remove to help my tank get back to
normal?
< Keep things as is. the peat will keep the water acidic and retard
bacterial growth. watch for ammonia spikes because the bacteria that
break down the fish waste may have been affected by the warmer
waters.>
As you can see I am very worried and determined to act in some way!
I believe everything will be fine, I just want to make sure I am not
remiss somehow.
Thank you so kindly for your help. Nicole
< Watch things closely for few days.-Chuck>
Fish Concern During Cycling 9/12/06
Hello Crew, I have made the ignorant mistake that other beginners
have made. I did not let the aquarium do its cycle before
introducing fish. I have 10 fish and 3 mystery snails in my 28gal
bowfront tank. I have read the fish will start to die near the end
of the 'Cycle'. It has been about a week and no fish have died yet
and ammonia levels are about 1.5mg/l. My question is, as the
ammonia increases throughout the cycle should I remove the fish from
the tank and place them in smaller containers of freshwater until
the chemical levels are normal. I have performed 2 - 25% water
changes and added the product "ACE" (ammonia chlorine
eliminator). Thanks for your time
< Add Bio-Spira by Marineland. Tank will be cycled within a day. Or
keep fish in tank and continue to dilute ammonia with water
changes.-Chuck>
Re: Measuring Bio-Load II 9/5/06
Update...10g Fry Tank - 1 of my otos died and so did my other panda
Cory. As per your advice, I will not be adding any more Cory cats to this
tank.
35g - I did my water testing and here are the results:
pH = 7.6
Ammonia = 0 ppm
Nitrite = 0 ppm
Nitrate = 7 ppm
Phosphate = 0.5 ppm
After getting these results, I did a 50% water change. I haven't retested
the water yet, but it still cloudy with a green tint. Help please! Donna
< The pH is a little high for wild fish from South America like Oto's. The
panda Cory could have been wild or domestically bred. South American fish in
the aquarium hobby usually come from warm acidic water. Your nitrates look
fine. The phosphates may be contributing to the algae. At this point I would
try adding a good activated carbon. It will remove organics and usually does
a fine job or removing tannins and other organics.-Chuck>
FW low/no alkaline reserve, env. dis. 7/26/06
I have kept saltwater aquariums for a couple of decades. But I cannot keep
Neons/cardinals alive!
<Mmm, not what they used to be... nor is water quality most everywhere...>
I have a 45 gallon freshwater tank. I tried gravel only on the bottom with a
BioWheel for filtration. no luck. I then placed an undergravel filter with a
powerhead. the pH always drops from 7 to 3.7 within a week.
<Yeeikes! Too much...>
I do a 20% water change monthly. I cannot figure out why the ph keeps
dropping Ideas ? Thanks!
Ron
<Lack of buffering capacity (aka alkalinity). Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwph,alk.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Please help! FW trials... - 7/25/2006
Hello
<<Hi. This is Lisa.>>
I have been reading your site and I am so so so confused. I just got a 10 gallon
tank and I have two filters going, one on top that came with the tank and one
that is under the gravel.
<<Did you cycle it?
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm.>>
We first put two mollies, two glow fish
<<Oh god, glow fish. Please refrain from buying these, and dyed fish.>>
and one iridescent shark all together in the tank.
<<That iridescent shark grows to over 50”! That’s right…over four feet long, and
needs a school to be best. That fish doesn’t belong in most fish stores, let
alone in a 10-gallon tank. That’s horrendous. Please take the fish back to
point of purchase, tell them how horrible it is that they sold it to you for
your 10-gallon, and please, please research your pets before buying them.>>
For one week they all were doing great!
<<A whole week…>>
Then the unexpectedly one molly had babies. SO much fun! Still... all doing
well. Then the shark came down with ick. We treated the entire tank for a couple
of days and all seemed back to normal. Now... our mollies are all dying. We are
very sad and SO confused. This may seem like a really dumb question... how do I
test the water and for what?
<<Get test kits for at least ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.>>
What else can I do?
<<Return your fish to the store, read about cycling, perform a fishless cycle on
your tank, then think about buying appropriate fish.>>
We are planning on moving the tank to another room, any suggestions? How often
do we need to change this type of tank water?
<<Right now that is unimportant. You have bigger ‘fish to fry’. Get your fish
back to the LFS.>>
Will a snail help the overgrowth.
<<Overgrowth of what?>>
Oh... I am really sorry. I have been reading all your Q&A and I am SO confused.
PH.. Nitrate.. ammonia.. so confused.
<<Cycling in a very quick nutshell: Fish secrete waste in the form of
ammonia. This is deadly to them and builds up quickly. There is a bacterium
that will develop in the tank that will eat the ammonia and turn it into
nitrIte. This is also a very toxic substance. There is another bacterium that
will eat the nitrite and turn it into nitrAte, a far less toxic substance at low
concentrations, which is most easily removed by water changes. Fishless cycling
is done by adding ammonia (with NO fish present) or decomposing fish food to the
tank for a few weeks until you see ammonia, then nitrite rise, then see those to
go to 0, and nitrate show up. You must keep feeding the bacteria or it will
die. Do not be fooled by products claiming to have bacteria in a bottle, except
for Bio-Spira. It is refrigerated, and is the only product that works at all.>>
I really really really appreciate any advice you could offer me!
Many blessings ~ Rachel
<<Please get your fish back to the store Rachel. DO the right thing and learn
before you buy. Lisa.>>
New Aquarium With Old Problems ... env. dis. 7/7/06
My husband and I got a new aquarium over the weekend. We bought a total of
10 fish including a betta who is in a separate fish tank. Today we have
two, yes TWO of the 9 fish that we put in the big tank and the betta is doing
fine.
We have had a terrible time with this fish tank. First, the Glass Fish had a
fungal infection, so I took it back to PetSmart. 2- A Ghost Catfish had a
bacterial infection and died. 3- My son dumped the ENTIRE container of fish food
into the aquarium Tuesday morning. I spent a couple hours skimming the
tank to get out all that food, cleaning the tank, and attempting to save the
fish. No luck. Our Mono Sebae died, then a Long-fin Red Minor Tetra
(beautiful) died. Yesterday morning I found one of the Guppies and my beautiful
beautiful and EXPENSIVE Angelfish dead. And the Molly is dead.
The two we have left- a Guppy and a Platy. And they don't look too good.
Oh, and the betta...but he's doing fine in the other tank. I am quite upset. The
water in the tank got very cloudy. It never seemed to get any better. So
I took the fish out, drained the tank, cleaned everything and started over. I
let the tank cycle before putting the two fish back in this morning. I've
been watching them closely today and they both seem to have a dull and patchy
cloudy color with damaged tail and fins. Their gills are pinkish and
very pale. I was wondering if this could have been caused by the water quality
being very poor before I drained the tank or if they could have some
kind of infection or disease.
Also, I am very confused as to what type of salt to use in the tank. One pet
store told us to get freshwater aquarium salt (bought the kind he showed
to me) and another told me that wasn't the right kind to use in a brackish tank.
What is the right kind?? And which should I put in the Betta's tank,
if at all? Thank you so much for your time!!! Melissa Hall
< Wow what a mess. Too many fish too soon. Many of your fish are not even
brackish! It takes a month to get your tank fully cycled unless you use
Bio-Spira from Marineland. To recap what has happened. First you had too many
fish in a new tank with no biological filtration. This means the deadly ammonia
from the fish waste started to build up. That is the grey cloudy water you
observed. This ammonia is deadly to fish. Even if it does not kill them out
right it burns their skin and gills. It also stresses them out to the point that
they become very ill. When the entire can of fish food fell in the ammonia
levels went over the top. What to do now? Your guppy and platy have been damaged
by the ammonia spike and currently have a bacterial infection. If you medicate
the tank the antibiotics will probably kill off any good nitrifying bacteria
too. I would try doing daily 25% water changes and see if the fish get any
better on their own. If you don't see any improvement over the next couple of
days then treat with Nitrofurazone or Kanamycin. Follow the directions on the
packages. Now you are probably back to square one. Use the Bio-Spira to get the
biological filtration going. Please check out the WWM website for tank cycling
and brackish water fish. You made some poor fish choices and need to do some
research before you purchase any more fish.-Chuck>
Mickey mouse & neon tetras... for a short while in a three gallon bowl
6/18/06
Hi everyone,
<Sarah>
I wonder if you could help me.
<Will try>
I was given a 3 gallon acrylic goldfish bowl from a friend of mine with some
coloured gravel and plastic plants. Last week I purchased a Mickey Mouse
Platy and everything was fine, wasn't eating much though, was feeding early
morning around 6am then again at 6.30pm, and spent most of the time at the
surface, didn't really know why this I am new to all this, but thought it was
just their behaviour and didn't think anything of it.
<Such small, artificial environments are hard to establish, keep stable...>
Recently I purchased a Neon Tetra the man in the fish store said it will be ok
to mix them as they are both peaceful fish.
<Not in this setting...>
The trouble I am having it that as soon as I put the Tetra in the bowl the Platy
started chasing it all around the bowl and now the Tetra is mostly at the top of
the bowl and the
Platy is at the bottom.
Don't know if they are female or males. Would this make a difference?
Should I separate them or just see how it goes.
Thank you for your support.
Mrs. Sarah Ward
<What you and your fishes need is a larger, more established world. Please read
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and elsewhere on WWM re the "Systems" of these two species... need different
water quality than can be maintained in a three gallon system. Bob Fenner>
Problems adding first fish 5/28/06
Hi,
<Hello>
After cycling my new aquarium (38 gal) for about 3 weeks, the ammonia and
nitrite levels were both 0 and nitrate was about 20 ppm. <OK> I then changed
50% of the water, and yesterday I added some fish (3 yellow labs and 2 socolofi,
all juveniles). Well, this morning I woke up to find all of the labs and one of
the socolofi dead. I removed the dead fish and tested the water
again. Ammonia: 0 ppm, nitrite: 2 ppm. I immediately did a huge water change
(about 75%). The other socolofi looks ok for now, but what happened? What
should I do now?
Confused...
<What happened was too many fish to fast. The biological filtration couldn't
keep up with the addition of 5 new fish. The tank had a mini cycle as evidenced
by the nitrite reading. The last fish will probably be fine but give the new
tank time to catch up. Don't add anything for a couple of weeks, then it will
be ok to add 1-2 new fish, after proper quarantining of course.>
<Chris>
Fish Perishing - Toxic Water? - 05/20/2006
Hello
<Hi.>
I was wondering if anyone can help me, I am having a lot of trouble with nearly
all my fish at the moment.
<We'll sure try.>
I am unsure of the volume of the tank as I don't actually know how to work it
out but the size is 3 foot length by 1 foot depth and 13 inches height (if you
could tell me the volume in UK measurements that would be really great).
<In inches, length x depth x height divided by 231 will yield US
gallons. 36x12x13=5616 ; 5616/231=24.31 US gallons. Google has a wonderful
capability for conversions - if you type "24.31 US gallons to UK gallons" in
their search bar, you'll get this result: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=24.31+US+gallons+to+UK+gallons&btnG=Search
. So, your tank holds a bit over 20 UK gallons.>
The tank has been set up since Christmas (fish where introduced in February). I
do regular tests on the water most recent one today being nitrate 0, nitrite 0,
PH 7.2, KH 6 and GH 16
<What about ammonia??>
these results have never really changed so they gave me no indication of a
problem.
<Have you been testing ammonia, as well??>
But everything went belly up (along with a couple of my fish) just over a week
ago.
<Yikes!>
At that point I had 4 Sunset platys, 4 female guppies, 1 male guppy and a baby
Pleccy. I had noticed a couple of the fish flashing and rubbing so I mad my
first mistake of presuming it was just ich
<Don't presume anything.... observe the fish VERY closely, try to understand
exactly what the root of the trouble is before coming to any conclusions.>
and treated them with a white spot treatment along with a 20 - 30% water change,
but within 2 hours of adding the new chlorine treated water
<By this I hope you mean that you treated the water to neutralize chlorine?>
one of my female guppies developed red blotches all over her body and looked
like she had lost all the slime coat on her scales.
<Disturbing.... Sounds like a pretty violent reaction to some sort of a toxin
in the water.>
I put her in quarantine so she didn't rub on the stones and do more damage, and
put a aloe vera stress treatment in hoping this would help.
<I, personally, don't much like these aloe treatments for aquarium use. Nor do
I much like Melaleuca treatments for fish.>
Within 24 hours she was dead and the blotches ended up looking like stripes. At
first I thought it may have been some sort of chlorine burn but the water I put
in was treated the same way I have always done.
<Do you know if the water conditioner that you use neutralizes chloramine as
well? If not, perhaps your township has begun using chloramine instead of
chlorine, and this could be the problem?>
What where these red blotches?
<More than likely a sign of something irritating or toxic in the water.>
Three days later the exact same thing happened to another female guppy. Now a
third guppy is very lifeless just hanging around the bottom with very rapid
breathing, but is showing no sign of the red blotches/stripes. The fourth guppy
is acting the same but her body shape has change sort of bullet shape and she is
finding it very difficult to swim. Then last night one of the platys that was
healthy and showed no signs of illness at all just suddenly flipped upside down
and dropped to the bottom convulsed a couple of times and before I could even
get the lid off was dead.
<Very disconcerting....>
I then noticed one of the other platys who I thought was pregnant was just puffy
and by this morning her scales where sticking out and she was very puffy, now
the male guppy is the same.
<All of these symptoms are pointing at something toxic in the water, I fear....>
I read up about dropsy but don't really understand how to treat it, does it
sound like that is what this is?
<Uhh, actually, "dropsy" is a collection of symptoms, not a disease in and of
itself.... The symptoms of "dropsy" could indicate constipation, bacterial
disease, toxification....>
Are all these things linked or are they all different diseases?
<I very much fear that these are linked.>
What could have suddenly caused all this?
<Again, my fear here is that some toxin or other in the water is harming the
fish.>
Are all my fish doomed?
<I certainly hope not.>
They are all still rubbing on the ground. Everything was fine before I done the
water change. All the fish except the pleccy seem to be ill.
<I would urgently do a very major water change with water from a different
source. I would consider getting reverse osmosis filtered water (even drinking
water from a water store) and using a bit of a buffer to increase the pH and
hardness of the filtered water to match your tank's water.... and see how the
fish react to this new water change.>
On a side note the pleccy has taken to refusing to eat from the bottom of the
tank but instead hangs upside down feeding from the flakes at the surface, I'm a
bit worried that he isn't getting the right nutrients by feeding like this
instead of sucking algae. Is he just showing off?
<This is actually not abnormal. I've had plecs do this before, as well. He may
need more food specifically for him, or you might try using Spirulina flakes for
him if he insists on coming to the surface to eat. One of my plecs in the past
learned to eat upside down at the surface, and I used to pop a couple of skinned
peas right into his mouth by hand.>
I cant quarantine anymore as the small tank cracked (having no luck at all).
<Yikes!>
Any help or advice you could give me would be great. Many thanks.
<Try a water change with known "safe" water, find out about your usual source
water and chlorine/chloramine, find out if your water conditioner neutralizes
chloramine or not, and move on from there. Oh, also, before that big water
change, try to think of anything you might have placed in the tank recently
(rock from outdoors perhaps, decor that you're not sure is fish-safe, etc.) that
could possibly be a source of trouble for the livestock, and pull it out. THEN
do your big water change, and let's see where that brings you. Wishing you
well, -Sabrina>
"Spectacular Background" and Fish Death - Coincidence? Don't Know -
05/17/2006
Hi,
<Hello.>
Three days ago I purchased a ‘Spectacular Aquarium’ background. It’s made from
foam to look like rocks. When we put it in all the fish were fine but I came
home today to find all 8 of my tiger barbs dead! I’ve checked the water pH, KH,
GH, nitrate, ammonia and CO2 levels and there all fine.
<What, specifically, are the levels? And what about nitrite>
All the other fish seem healthy and are eating. Do you know why all my tiger
barbs would have died in the same day? Please help -Alex
<I would recommend contacting the manufacturer and asking if they have any
specific instructions for cleaning or preparation that may have been overlooked
somehow. Beyond that, there's just too little information here for me to go
off. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Re: Freshwater 20g... unexpected surprise... - 5/5/2006
Hello Tom and Mr. Fenner,
<<Hi, Geri. Tom again.>>
I just wanted to thank you again for all your help. I've been doing small water
changes on a daily basis since the last time I emailed and things seem to be
progressing relatively well.
<<Glad to hear it, Geri.>>
As of this morning ammonia is 0ppm, nitrite is .50ppm ( still higher than it
should be but getting lower each time I test ) and my nitrates are at about 10
ppm - sometimes the colours are in between the two values on the card.
<<Not to worry with the nitrates. Your readings are quite good. You're right
about the nitrites but you already know they need to come down. Good for you.>>
Unfortunately one of my mollies died a few days ago but am very thankful it was
just one as opposed to all of them.
<<I'm sorry about your Molly, Geri. We know it happens but it's still a
"loss".>>
Thank you all for dedicating so much time and energy to the website - I haven't
come across another that's nearly as informative and helpful.
<<Speaking for all of us, we appreciate your kind words. It makes it all
worthwhile.>>
Geri
<<Tom>>
NTS, FW compatibility - 5/3/2006
Bob,
<<Lisa this time :).>>
About three weeks ago, I bought a used 55 gallon fish tank to exchange out with
my 15 gallon. The guy I got it from said it was used as a fresh water tank and
sat empty for 2 years.
<<Ok.>>
I washed it up and filled it with city tap water, treated the water with aqua
safe and left it filter for 2 days before I put any fish in.
<<How did you cycle the tank?>>
I had my 15 gallon for 5 years with no trouble at all. I am having a lot of
trouble with the new tank. In the last 3 weeks I have managed to loose 10 fish
and 2 algae eaters. The tank is set up for fresh water for my gold fish, but in
the last round of fish that I bought, I have already managed to lose all of them
in the matter of days.
<<Goldfish are a cool-water fish, and do not fare well mixed with tropicals.>>
They seem to huddle together in one corner of the bottom of the tank. They
rarely even come up to eat. I have emptied the tank twice and treated it each
time I fill it up. I have also treated it with clear water for the smell (it
smells fishy).
<<Your tank is simply not cycled. Please read about fishless cycling on WWM,
and look into purchasing some Bi |