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FAQs about Freshwater Puffer Behavior
Related Articles:
The Nice Puffer: Colomesus
asellus , the South American Puffer
by Neale Monks,
Freshwater Puffers, Alone
But Not Lonely: The Importance of Keeping Puffers Individually by
Damien Wagaman,
Freshwater to Brackish Puffers,
Puffers in General,
True Puffers, Family Tetraodontidae,
(Big) Pufferfish
Dentistry By Kelly Jedlicki
and Anthony Calfo
Small Puffer Dentistry By Jeni Tyrell (aka
Pufferpunk),
Puffer Care and Information
by John (Magnus) Champlin,
Things That My Puffers Have
Told Me by Justin Petrey,
Related FAQs: FW Puffers 1, FW
Puffers 2, FW Puffers 3,
FW Puffer Identification,
FW Puffer Selection, FW Puffer Compatibility,
FW Puffer Systems,
FW Puffer Feeding, FW Puffer Disease,
FW Puffer Reproduction,
BR Puffer Identification,
BR Puffer Selection,
BR Puffer Compatibility,
BR Puffer Systems,
BR Puffer Feeding,
BR Puffer Disease, BR
Puffer Disease 2,
BR Puffer Reproduction,
Puffers in General, True Puffers,
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In a word, "nasty"... picky, mean, biting...
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YouTube / Short clip of DOT, our Pustulatus / Cross River
Puffer - 10/01/2009
Hi Bob,
<Hey Lars!>
hope you´re well!
<Thank you my friend>
After cleaning the tank yesterday I´ve decided to come up with another
clip of DOT today.
Feel free to watch it right here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJe8tysOVc8
Hope you like!
Best,
Lars
<Very nice videography, sound... Can't believe the fish doesn't eat the
Cardinals! Will share. BobF>
Re: YouTube / Short clip of DOT, our Pustulatus / Cross River
Puffer - 10/01/2009
Hi Bob,
<Lars>
thanks for your immediate feedback.
In general, Dot is dangerous but does not kill its tankmates (except
when they're ill or lethargic). But he would eat fingers if on the meal
table ... ;)
Nevertheless he's a real great and symphatic guy ...
Best,
Lars
<Heee! Keep your eye on your fingers in his tank! BobF>
South American Puffer
Problems 05/23/09
Hi,
<Hello,>
I was wondering if someone could give me an answer on what to do with my
South American Puffer (approx 1.5 inch long)---he's acting 'strangely'
but does not appear to have any diseases. He paces back and forth all
day long across the back of the tank chasing his reflection (my F8 did
this too but wasn't so focused on himself---this puffer does it so much
he ignores food etc type thing and am worried about his mental health)
<Sort of normal -- this is a GREGARIOUS and highly active species; keep
in groups (at least two) and provide ample swimming space (more than 1
m/3 feet swimming "length" in the tank, plus strong to very strong water
circulation). This is a highly migratory species in the wild that
largely ignores plants, caves, etc. but does want, need swimming space
and water currents.>
I am a rather experienced fishkeeper and have kept other 'oddballs' and
bred/kept most of the big cichlids so am familiar with water chemistry
etc. In my early days I kept what I now believe was a figure eight
puffer, and as I (now) know his water conditions weren't perfect I lost
him (but he was a very eager eater and very personable, unlike this
puffer).
I have had the SAP for a couple of months and noticed steadily that he
is becoming more and more picky with his food because he's so busy
zooming over the back of the tank. When he finally stops to eat
something his attempts are rather half-hearted and it seems like his
mouth is too small to bite the krill bits effectively (he can however
eat a Colorbit whole) and spends a lot of time taking little bites and
then spitting it out... he used to eat bloodworm but stopped but he
likes shrimp pellets. At first I
was worried about his teeth but I checked them too and he can really
gorge himself when he feels like it... so I don't think they're the
problem yet.
<Can be a picky species, but a little starvation works wonders; my
specimens don't eat Mysis and Krill if given Bloodworms earlier that
day, but if not given Bloodworms for a day or two, they build up quite
an
appetite and will eat anything. A combination of Bloodworms, Mysis,
Krill, Chopped Cockle and Chopped Prawn should provide ample nutrition;
also offer snails regularly, ideally Physa species and other small
varieties.>
His colour is fantastic (nice bold black/yellow with a nice white
belly), he shows no signs of ich etc and is always swimming around, fins
nicely intact. He exhibited this frantic pacing when I first brought him
home (he had come down with Ich) but I treated him and the white spots
cleared up. I thought this might be a second episode so I netted him
this morning and looked him over---nothing.
<Is a nervous species...>
He lives in my SA community tank (40 gallon long) that runs at between
82 to 84 (usually stays at 84) I know this is very warm but every time I
try to adjust it someone gets ill so I've left it alone. The tank is
filtered by a Rena xp3 that is crammed with sponges, ceramic rings etc.
(possibly xp4) which I clean every month (never have I ever changed any
of the media-- I just rinse it in a bucket of tank water, refill the
filter with new dechlorinated water) and then hook it up again. I change
at minimum 25-30% percent of the water every two weeks, (I'll do more if
they've eaten more etc.)
<Isn't an ideal community species, but given the right tankmates, can be
kept with other fast-moving fish; will nip Corydoras, Platies and other
slow/stupid fish.>
The tank has a plain sand substrate that is home to god knows how many
Malaysian Trumpet Snails. It is planted with Bacopa moneiri, wisteria
(some floating), some plant I cannot identify and hornwort (which
basically just floats around) and there is a single Zoo Med Flora-Sun
Bulb on the tank which runs for about 10 hours a day. There is plenty of
green algae on the walls of the tank but I leave it be except to clean
it off the front.
The water straight out of the tap is ammonia-less and nitrate-less, with
very little chlorine and it's very soft (I don't know how soft but
that's what the LFS said) with a PH of about 7. At last check (two days
ago) the tank water tested at 0 ammonia and the nitrates between 5-10.
<South American puffers will adapt to Rio Negro type soft water
conditions through to slightly brackish conditions at the Amazon
estuary; on other words, provided not exposed to sudden changes, are
largely indifferent to water chemistry.>
The tank inhabitants are as follows:
-1 female blue ram
<A poor choice, but more because Mikrogeophagus ramirezi is difficult to
maintain at anything other than very soft, very acidic, very warm
conditions.>
-1 SAP
<Add at least one more, ideally two more.>
-12 Serpaes
<Should be fine; similar temperament in some ways.>
-6 bronze cories (5 regular, 1 albino)
<Pufferfish food... have tried to keep SAPs with Corydoras multiple
times, always the same nipped fins.>
-2 new juvenile Uaru (1 is about 2 inches the other appx 4.5 and both
are happily eating my plants)
<Oddly perhaps, robust cichlids can work well, but Uaru might be nipped,
so observe.>
No one appears to be getting harassed to the point of stress (occasional
chasing between the non-puffer residents but no one appears to be
bothering the SAP)
<Most fish ignore puffers.>
I am guilty as charged with having an overstocked tank but a new much
larger aquarium is in the plans very soon. In the meantime I figure the
water is good and everyone seems happy.
<Fine.>
In the next couple of days I plan to add on another filter for increased
oxygenation and turbulence plus filtration, I will also purchase a spare
tank to set up as QT/hospital tank. I will pick up some live ghost
shrimp and whatever other goodies I can find to tempt him to eat.
<Would concentrate on water turnover where SAPs are concerned; eight
times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour is a good starting
point.>
I have read that SAP's are a rather 'social puffer' and are nervous when
kept singly. If so, would adding more SAP's once the larger tank is
running a good idea? Will this calm him down?
<Yes; when kept in "swarms" they are significantly less nervous.>
Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
<Do see my other thoughts, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/ColomesusartNeale.htm >
Thanks,
Ashley
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: South American Puffer
Problems 05/23/09
Hi again,
<Hello,>
I just have a few follow-up questions about creating a suitable tank for
the SAP. Regarding the female ram she is in very good colour and lays
eggs regularly and is from a local source rather than imported, but
should I remove her anyway?
<Possibly; ample reports that Mikrogeophagus ramirezi do not do well
under "ordinary" conditions from Baensch onwards.>
I have seen her chase the SAP away from food sometimes.
<Seen similar.>
Also, the cories are getting nipped pretty good but being a cichlid
keeper I'm used to catfish being in less than excellent condition
appearance wise so it didn't occur to me that there might be a problem
(they're not hiding... just look kinda like they've had a buzz cut)... I
may well take them to the LFS tomorrow and trade them in, so my question
is what other SA catfish/bottom feeder inhabitant would be a good
replacement for them?
<My own SAPs work well with Synodontis nigriventris, Panaque
nigrolineatus, Garra cambodgiensis and Acanthocobitis rubidipinnis.>
As far as turnover tank-wise, is it simply a matter of how much water is
circulated through the filter (.i.e a question of numbers of gallons per
hour) or active current in the tank or a combo of both?
<The first should determine the second; a decent filter with a high
turnover rate should provide sufficient water current. May help either
having one internal or hang-on-the-back filter at each end, or otherwise
an external canister with the inlet at one end and the spray bar at the
other end. SAPs are not a difficult species, and will adapt to almost
anything, so work around your budget and preferences.>
I definitely will be adding at least two more SAP's as you suggested...
if I can find them, the one I have now was a lucky find and the last one
in the tank.
Thanks again for all your help
<Happy to help! Neale.>
Pea Puffer Black Eyes Sits on
Bottom 5/8/2009
Hi!
<Hello,>
I have one little pea puffer in a 2.5 gallon tank
<Too small... While it's often said that Dwarf Puffers only need 2.5
gallons each, that ignores the fact you need a certain amount of space
simply for an aquarium to be stable and easy to maintain. Unless you're
prepared to set up a tank 8-10 gallons in size, don't bother keeping
Dwarf Puffers. They're very sensitive, and when crammed into these tiny
tanks, rarely live long.>
with a PH of 7.8 that is heated and filtered. He does not seem to be
eating, and lurks around the bottom of the tank, swimming around VERY
occasionally. In the off chance that I am able to find him, I have
noticed that his eyes are much darker than they were when I first bought
him.
(I've had him for about 2 weeks).
<Not a good sign; check the water quality (at least the nitrite). Buy a
bigger aquarium. I can promise you that in a 10 gallon tank this little
guy will pep right up. Now, you're going to tell me the pet shop assured
you this aquarium would be fine. They were wrong. Any aquarium book
would tell you what I'm saying, and especially books about pufferfish!>
He has lots of live plants and I used AquaSafe, Nitraban, and a small
trace of aquarium salt in the water.
<Doesn't need salt.>
I feed him frozen brine shrimp and dried blood worms. Any suggestions?
<Bigger tank. Failing that, take the pufferfish back. A 2.5 gallon tank
is useless as far as keeping fish is concerned, but you could keep some
Cherry Shrimps in there if you wanted. One reason we tell people to read
before
they spend their money is precisely because of this problem: the money
spend on 2.5 gallon tanks is money poured down the drain.>
Thanks for all you do!!!!
Christine
<Cheers, Neale.>
Weird Puffer/No Info 10/22/07 Hi, <Hi, Pufferpunk here> We just
noticed today that one of our puffers has rolled up into a ball and is ignoring
everything we do. Its mouth also looks really white and it isn't opened like the
others. It still swims around when bothered a lot though. Any idea what is wrong
with it? Is it just being stubborn or is it just because it hates me?
<Fish don't hate people, no matter how we mistreat them. I have absolutely
no info here to go on. Water parameters: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH? I don't
have any idea what species of puffer this is or even if it's fresh, brackish or
marine. Tank mates? Tank size? Water change schedule? Please throw me a bone
here. ~PP>
Nile Puffer losing color and becoming
listless 9/16/07
We've had our Nile puffer for about a month. Tupac was doing great in the 20
gallon tank he calls home, until we did a water change two days ago. We emptied
out about a third of the water, replaced it with water and conditioner and
biological treatment. Since then he's been pale, appears to be ?breathing? in a
labored fashion, hangs out at the bottom of the tank behind the décor, and
doesn't interact with us as he usually does. We had the water tested yesterday,
and there's a slight trace of ammonia, although (we've been told) not enough to
bother him. Because of the ammonia's presence, we added a bit of a different
conditioner yesterday and today, and plan to do the same tomorrow. But Tupac
still remains unhappy. What can we do? Please help. We have very little
experience with this type of fish and have become very attached to him.
<Greetings. Tetraodon lineatus are -- like all freshwater puffers -- very
sensitive to ammonia. The reason yours is "out of sorts" is almost certainly
because of this. In the long run, the fish will die. A pufferfish aquarium
should have consistently zero levels of ammonia and nitrite. There's no safe
levels of either other than zero, this point cannot be stressed too strongly.
Let's recap the basics. This is a big pufferfish (around 30-40 cm in captivity)
that needs a suitably large aquarium (around 300 litres, 75 US gallons being
about the minimum). Filtration should be appropriate to the size of the fish,
producing not less than 4x the volume of the tank in turnover. In other words,
for a 300 litre tank, the filter should have a turnover of 1200 litres per hour
or more. Water changes must be generous, around 50% per week, if not more. A
suitable dechlorinator should always be used, and if your local water board uses
chloramine in the water supply, choose a dechlorinator that neutralises
chloramine as well. Water chemistry is relatively unimportant as this species is
found in a variety of fresh (and to a less extent brackish water) habitats, but
ideally you want neutral to slightly alkaline, moderately hard freshwater. These
are difficult to look after, and I'm afraid failure to cover any of these bases
inevitably ends in the death of the fish. I hope this helps. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Nile Puffer losing color and becoming listless 9/20/07
Very helpful info. Thank you so much for your help. It appears we were
overfeeding poor Tupac. We cleaned the tank and filter and have cut him back on
the munchies. Your quick response was reassuring and helpful.
<Cool. Just keep on top of water changes, and make sure ammonia and nitrite stay
at zero. Do that, and your fish should recover quickly. They're nice fish, but
difficult to keep. So do things "by the numbers". Cheers, Neale>
Mixing Puffer
Species 1/2/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have in a 29 gallon, 2 green spots, 2 figure 8's, 1 dragon fish, and 1 dwarf
puffer. All are juveniles except dwarf.
A few days ago I found and brought home a "Samphong" (?) puffer (guessing a
female red eye red tail) from LFS that did not have much or actually any info
on. I added this little devil to my happy community of peaceful friends and have
had nothing but regrets and troubles since. The Samphong immediately bit both of
my greens, killing 1 within 12 hours and 1 figure 8. Needless to say the hell
raiser was quarantined as soon as i could get the net in my hand. The deceased
within 30 minutes of the attack was swollen on entire side of bite. My figure 8
victim is doing ok.. Now to my main problem. My other green spot has become
lethargic and not eating. As of this morning, 3 days since attack, he is now
getting fin and tail rot. I am now treating with Anti-Fungus, a product of
Aquarium Products and Mela-Fix by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. I am wondering if I
am doing the right thing or if you have any other ideas of how to treat.
<The 1st issue I see, is that you are mixing fresh, low-end-brackish & high-end
brackish water species. The 2nd problem I see, is that you have several species
of different aggression & sizes, all in the same tank. The dwarf only grows to
1", while the F8 (low-end BW fish) grows to 3" & the most aggressive of the 3,
the GSP, grows to 6" & requires high-end BW (preferring marine conditions as an
adult). By keeping these exotic fish in conditions other than what are best for
them will compromise their immune systems, causing the least bit of stress to
make them sick. I would get these fish into separate tanks with the proper
parameters ASAP. The DP can live in a 5g tank. F8s are best with 15g for the
1st one & 10g for each added. You can keep the dragon & the F8 in the
29g. GSPs need 30-50g each, as adults. I would separate them ASAP or you will
witness more deaths. If you need to cycle new tanks, you can add Bio-Spira, for
an instant cycle. As you have seen what can happen when you don't research a
species 1st (all new fish should be quarantined also), you can check out puffer
profiles at www.pufferlist.com. There is great info & excellent articles at
www.thepufferforum.com. Be sure to read the F8 & GSP articles in The
Library. For the Dwarf puffer, you can go to www.dwarfpuffers.com. After
moving your GSP, start raising the SG (specific gravity, measured with a
hydrometer or refractometer) by .002/week. You must use marine salt. Aim for
1.008-1.010 for the GSP (raising it higher towards adulthood) & 1.005 for the
F8. Keep using Melafix & Pimafix on the sick fish. ~PP>
Thank you, Philip
Sulking Mbu Puffer 6/29/05
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Hi, I wondered if you can help me? I have had my Mbu for about a month and is
about 2 inches long. When I first got him, he seemed quite happy swimming
around at the front of the tank and was eating every day. The last couple of
weeks he has retreated to the back of the tank and wont come out, he still eats
but only if I put the food at the back with him. I have checked the quality of
the water myself and also had my local fish shop do the same and everything
checks out fine with the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate being 0.
<If the tank is established (cycled), you should be seeing some nitrAtes. How
was the tank cycled? How large is the tank? How large of a tank are you
expecting to put that monster in, in a few years?>
I was told that he might be lonely as he was in the tank on his own so I put 5
zebra danios in with him but nothing's changed. The only other change I have
noticed is that he was darker in colour when I got him but is now a lot lighter.
<Many puffers change hues as their moods change or to match the colors
surrounding them. What foods are you offering him? Please read:
http://www.thepufferforum.org/viewtopic.php?t=150 There are several Mbu
owners at that site. ~PP>
I'd appreciate it if you could help. Matt
Puffers and acrylic
tanks? 7/14/04
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I currently have my 3 inch Porcupine Puffer house in a 90 gallon glass tank. I
am curious if he will need a bigger (125 gallon) down the road? if so, I have
heard that Puffers can TRASH acrylic tanks by "glass surfing"? do puffers need
to be in glass only to prevent them from scratching acrylic?
<I have never heard of this "glass surfing" you speak of. I know of many people
keeping puffers in acrylic tanks with no problems. ~PP>
Puffer "Glass Surfing"
P-punk-- 7/15-04
Thought I'd respond to your response. As a longtime LFS worker and salt
service dude, I can tell you this does indeed happen. Though infrequent, it
seems to be primarily due to the puffer's aggressive reaction to its own
reflection in the acrylic (and thus is usually a temporary problem, though in
some of the cases I'm familiar with, it has gone on long enough to produce ample
scratching to the tank in question).
<Thanks of informing me of this. I had no idea this could happen. You learn
something new every day... ~PP>
Best, Derek Milne
P.S. Hi to Scott F. too-- hope my Bodianus is thriving in his reef!
Green Spotted Puffers--Won't Slow Down 7/18/04
Hi,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I was just wondering if you knew why one of my spotted green puffers constantly
goes up and down against the glass of the fish tank. He will stop to eat but as
soon as he's done he's right back at it like he wants to get out. I also have
two other puffers the same as him but a little younger who never did it but
there slowly starting to copy and follow him right next to him going up and down
fast then slow. Its starting to drive me nuts seeing all three of
them do this none stop. I have plenty of caves and coverings for them. I don't
know what to do to make them stop doing this behavior. Would appreciate it if
you could help me out in any way.
<If you do indeed have enough decor in your tank, then I'd check the water
parameters. How big are the fish & tank? Have you read their article on them
here? ~PP>
Thanks, Jessica
Re: GSP Wont Sit
Still 7/18/04
The puffers are in size? Well, two are still real small but the one who goes
up and down in the tank he is about an inch long or a little more but I got him
also when he was real small. The tank they were in was a 95 gallon tank but I
moved them into a 35 gallon because I thought the up and down could be because
of the other fish that where in the tank. But no still kept doing it.
<Are they in brackish water?>
But today the bigger puffer actually stopped and laid down on a rock for a
while, but the little ones still continue.
<More importantly, water parameters please? Ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte, pH?>
Yes, I have read the article on them here and I have tried everything I have
even read the article on them on PufferNet which has something about puffers
acting like they want to escape from the tank but that philosophy also has not
seemed to work as well.
<I'd stay away from Puffernet. That site hasn't been updated in many years &
has a lot of misinformation there.>
Was hoping you would have any suggestions on this.
Thanks, Jessica
<Test your water & get back to me. If nothing is wrong there, then I think they
are just still adjusting to their surroundings. To see if there is enough decor
in your tank, check out mine:
http://wetwebfotos.com/Home?actionRequest=userview&userID=1918 BTW, nothing
of the decor in there is real. ~PP>
Puffer question
Mr. Fenner,
I have two green spotted puffers and two figure 8 puffers in a 25 gallon
tank with live plants, and two filters. There are places for the puffers to
hide and they are fed bloodworms, freeze dried plankton, ghost shrimp (when
they can catch them), and sometimes snails. Several times now (once in the
early morning and another time during the day) I have observed the green
spotted puffers tucking their tails tightly around their bodies (looking like
a little green ball) and floating at the bottom of the tank. Both times, I
have been concerned and have touched the fish with a gravel rake. Each
time, the fish has unwound and gone about his business like nothing ever
happened. Is this how these fish rest?
<Yes, particularly if/when well-fed>
Is this a defense mechanism?
<Perhaps... many predators key on movement... if you're still, maybe your
chances of discovery are lessened>
Are
they sick?
<Doubtful>
I want to be able to help them if they are.
On another note, One of my figure 8's is much lighter than the other (he
always has been) and eats tons of food when I feed the fish. When he eats,
his little stomach balloons up. Can he overeat and hurt himself?
<Not practically... this species can really gorge if/when the opportunity
presents itself. Just be careful not to add too much>
(if so, how
would I stop this) and second he sometimes just sits at the bottom of the
tank slightly off the rocks. Sometimes he moves back and forth against the
rocks as if he is itching or something. What can I do?
<Enjoy them>
How often should I feed these little guys?
<Once a day is fine.>
Thank you!
Matt
<You're welcome. Bob Fenner>
Puffer Color Change
Hello,
I enjoy the WWM site a lot...lots of good content.
<excellent>
I have a question...I have a green spotted puffer (Pepito). About a couple of
months ago, he started turning kind of blackish/greyish colored. What might it
be?
<Have you tested your water quality lately? Are you adding salt? What is the
spg? These puffers are ok in fresh water while young, but as they grow older
they should really be kept in brackish water. It could also be related to mood,
diet, or just a normal color change with age. Check out the link below and
related FAQs for more information. Best Regards, Gage
http://wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/fwbracpuffers.htm
>
Thank you,
Kristine
Spotted puff with changeable belly barometer...
<Ananda here tonight....>
Thanks for the reply,
I'll try to move around their furniture, but I had another question referring to
the water conditions...if it was water conditions wouldn't it affect both
puffers and not just one? Also last night he seemed real healthy swimming around
and it color really good...both eat really good...one just seems to change
colors from a darker to lighter all the time.
<How long have you had the puff whose belly changes color all the time? If you
just got him fairly recently, it's possible he's still adjusting to the
conditions in your tank. --Ananda>
Puffing puffer 12/12/03
Hi,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I am forever searching online for answers to this question:
What freshwater/brackish Puffers Actually puff up like the saltwater ones do?!
<All puffers puff when frightened, threatened or stressed.>
My husband and I adore puffers but are not ready to take the plunge into a huge
saltwater tank,
so we are trying to find puffers for our fresh/brack tank that actually puff up!
<What's a fresh/brackish tank? Either it's FW or BW, it can't be both.>
We recently went to a local
pet store and they told us that the Green spotted puffer would puff up. Needless
to say, here it is about a month later
and the only time that he puffs is when he eats a lot of food! He is doing well
though, and we love him, but
we are still in search of a Puffer that actually puffs! I don't know if this is
asking too much, but is there any way you
could give me a list of puffers that actually puff, for a fresh/brack tank ?
<Bad idea! It is very stressful for a puffer to puff. Please don't try to make
them puff! It can eventually kill them. Also, you keep mentioning a FW/BW
tank. GSPs are BW fish that prefer high-end BW-SW as adults. They grow to 6" &
need at least a 20-30g tank by themselves. As they get older they get very
aggressive & kill their tankmates.>
I WOULD BE SO THANKFUL! If not possible, could you lead me to the right path to
find it myself online?
<http://biomechanics.bio.uci.edu/_html/nh_biomech/pufferfish/puffer.htm>
Thanks So much for having such an informative website, and so much help!
Meghan~
<I hope you will leave your puffer deflated & happy--Pufferpunk>
Green Puffer
Hi Bob!
My husband and I have 4 Green Puffers. Two adults, and 2 babies. One of the adult puffers fades really
bad in color. Going from his beautiful bright green, to a pale green to where you can barely see his black
spots, and then back to his beautiful green again. Is this a sign of stress? He isn't acting any different
and is eating like the fat boy he is. I am hoping that you have the answer!
Thanks!
Stephanie and Doug
<Thanks for writing. Likely there is nothing wrong with the "flashing" adult
puffer. These fish do shift brightness and markings with their moods... this one
is likely just communicating with its kin. Do take a read over the freshwater
puffer section and FAQs on the www.wetwebmedia.com site for more input on their
care. Bob Fenner>
Puffer Info
Hello again. Thank you very much for your advice before regarding my puffer
fish. I had questions about my 3 green and black spotted puffers in a 6
gallon tank; one of them was starting to turn brown. Well, the one that was
turning brown died the next morning,
<Yes, sorry to learn of this loss>
it was sad, but the other 2 are still
ok for now. I put a couple of rocks in the tank and they seem to like that.
But one is a lot bigger than the other, and is constantly starting to chase
the little one around. The little one spends a lot of time hiding behind
the rocks now. I am afraid that it will die.
<All very typical... need larger quarters to get away from each other>
It is still eating great and
everything. Today I was in a pet store and I noticed that one of the tanks
had little puffers the same as my small one with other bigger fish.
Unfortunately I don't remember what kind of fish they were with. I was
wondering if the little puffer would do okay in a 30 gallon tank that has
about 5 mollies in it, a small guppy sized fish that has horizontal stripes
on it, a Gourami, and 2 fish that look like bleeding hearts but they are
darker shades of reddish orange. They are all pretty lively but docile in
the sense that they don't nip at each other and pretty much leave each other
alone. They are all bigger than the little puffer except for the one with
the horizontal stripes on it. But it's an extremely fast little guy. Would
the little puffer eat him? I would really like to get the little puffer out
of the small tank with the mean big one in it. What do you think?
Thanks! Kari
<Well... the Puffer is not likely to be bothered too much by the fishes you
list... in fact, the Puffer is much more likely to bite bits out of some of the
new tankmates... You ought to check the physical/chemical requirements/ranges of
these fishes to assure that they are mixable... maybe on fishbase.org... many of
the fish species you list tolerate/enjoy hard alkaline, even brackish water, the
"tetras" you tentatively identify do not...
Bob Fenner>
Spotted puffer
Hi I have a question about pufferfish. I bought a spotted puffer about 2
months ago and he acts and looks really healthy. The other day I noticed
something strange, he turned a different shade. He was laying near an ornament I
have and was really dark. When I looked in the tank he came swimming over to me
like always and his color went back to his normal shade. A friend of mine has a
spotted and a figure 8 and he said he noticed the same thing only one of his
turns lighter. Is this normal?
<Yes, normal... but one is freshwater, the other species becomes brackish to
marine with age...>
Do they do this for camouflage? Or is it a mood thing?
<Both as far as I'm concerned. Bob Fenner>
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