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FAQs on the Rainbowfishes Systems
Related Articles: Rainbowfishes, Fishes
at the rainbow’s end; An
introduction to the Atheriniformes, the rainbowfish and silversides
by Neale Monks
Related FAQs: Rainbowfishes
1, Rainbowfishes 2, & FAQs on:
Rainbow Identification,
Rainbow Behavior,
Rainbow Compatibility,
Rainbow Selection,
Rainbow Feeding,
Rainbow Disease, Rainbow Reproduction, |
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"Water changes. Rainbowfish REALLY like water changes. I typically perform
50% water changes on my fish (weekly suggested but at least 1x every 2
weeks) and they really enjoy this. 10-20% weekly changes really just
doesn't get the job done.
Hardness, pH On the GH side anywhere between 100 ppm - 250 is fine for them.
Harder is ok too but they get tougher to breed and the eggs sometimes don't
hatch at the higher hardness values. On the KH end I feel that it is
extremely important to get at least 3-4 degrees of carbonate hardness here.
If you have softer water supplement it by adding baking soda, sodium
bicarbonate. In my water a tablespoon in ~ 55 gallons increases by about 1
degree KH. pH bounce is something that really stresses Rainbowfish and if
present can cause them to get TB. Most of the Rainbowfish people have
pretty well discounted the other wasting diseases. TB is not easy to test
for but when it has been done - skin ulcers, mouth ulcers, bloating (shot
kidneys) and wasting have all been positive for TB."
Excerpted from a note in by Gary Lange |
Neale re: threadfins (Rainbows)
4/24/08
Hello again Neale,
<Hello Aileen,>
I have been fish keeping almost a year now and it amazes me how much I learn
every time I look through pages of this site. Sometimes too much and the
information gets all jumbled in my head (could be age too) and other times I
learn enough to lead me to ask more questions.. it really is a wonder resource.
<Thank you!>
You mentioned some time ago that if I wanted threadfins I should consider
another tank. I thought you were nuts at the time but...I am going to look at a
used 40g tomorrow. Actually somebody had a 100g I can have but I think two
monster tanks might be a bit much. My thinking is leading me to include in this
tank: threadfin rainbows, wrestling halfbeaks, Corydoras and then I was
wondering about bumblebee gobies or something with some colour. I was reading on
WWM that most bumblebee gobies are considered brackish except one species, which
may or may not, tolerate fresh water better?
<BBGs are complicated: you cannot possibly identify species; even scientists
have trouble doing this under a microscope, let alone with live fish! Most BBG
species seem to be found in a variety of habitats, from blackwater streams to
brackish water. But in aquaria they are temperamental, and slightly brackish
water does seem optimal. This is a lot like Mollies for example, which may be
freshwater fish in the wild, but unquestionably are easier to keep in brackish.
Because BBGs are very difficult to keep well fed, I'd not keep them in a
community tank.>
My water is liquid rock. What are your thoughts on this community and any
numbers you may think appropriate? Are there any other species you might include
instead?
<Almost anything that doesn't explicitly need soft water should thrive. pH
stability is more important than pH value in most cases, and people routinely
keep all sorts of things in hard water conditions. With Threadfin Rainbows, I'd
be looking at Corydoras (and their relatives, like Aspidoras and Dianema) in
terms of bottom dwellers. Kuhli loaches and small Loricariidae such as Whiptail
Catfish would also be appropriate. You might also opt for some surface fish like
Halfbeaks. Tetras and Barbs are best avoided because of potential problems with
fin nipping, but Rasboras and other small Rainbowfish are certainly an option.
Livebearers are certainly a possibility, though some Goodeidae are fin nippers
so choose with care.>
And since I have your attention, I was reading on here some time ago about
separating swordfish fry before the appearance of the sword to prevent
inbreeding. So I immediately set up another 10 gal to do so. But I realized when
I was trying to sex them that they appear to be all female! Is this a
probability?
<No. While the idea that Swordtails change sex is widely held, there are
actually no scientific studies that backs it up. It is much more probable that
aquarists mistake undeveloped males for females. Male livebearers don't develop
their sexual characteristics until a certain age (usually around 2-3 months
depending on the species). Obviously until the gonopodium is formed they cannot
fertilise the females, so you don't need to separate them until that time.>
Or am I missing something like the triangular fin I am supposed to be seeing on
only the females? Is the differentiation not as great in fry as adults? I ended
up separating by size as it seemed the best alternative at the time. Since I was
having so much trouble purchasing healthy vibrant red swords I decided to keep
the try of a lone surviving, vibrant female. The batch was small but healthy, I
have not lost any and they are about 5 months old. But still, not a sword in the
bunch...I was hoping for some nice deep red males for another long term plan.
<If you have just 5 fry, it is statistically possible, though unlikely, they are
all one sex. But if the fry are less than a couple months old, you can't sex
them anyway.>
Thanks in advance for your help
Aileen
<Good luck, Neale.>
Rainbow-Killies-Planted Tank set Up 9/12/06
Hi, I'm in the process of planning a FW planted 54g corner tank
(38"x27"x22") and was wondering if I could get a second opinion on a
stocking list. Equipment will be an Eheim 2028 can. filter (275gph
output), 300w in line heater, 55w pc light w/6700k bulb, 15g QT tank
and a separate 15g hospital tank. I'm planning on weekly water
changes of approx. 10 gallons, (more if nitrates rise beyond 20ppm.)
Also, the water from my tap tests: 7.2 pH, 3 degrees KH and 6
degrees GH. My current stocking plan is:
1m & 3f threadfin rainbows, I. werneri
1m & 3f Pacific blue-eyes, P. signifier
1m & 3f forktail blue-eyes, P. furcatus
1m & 1f red-lined killifish, A. striatum
1m & 1f rainbow notho, n. rachovi
1m & 3f spotted blue-eyes, p. gertrudae
1m & 1f clown killifish, a. annulatus
1m & 1f blue notho, n. patrizi
My main questions would be... Too many fish?
< Between the filter and the plants you should be able to handle the
nitrate load.>
Any obvious aggression/territoriality problems sure to surface over
the weeks??
< Many of the rainbows are in the same genus. I would expect males
not to get along. The rainbows may be too active for the Killies and
out compete them for food.>
I'd rather have less fish than more problems. Also, should all of
these guys be okay with my tap water?
< Most of your fish would prefer a pH to be lower than 7, but you
are very close already.>
And any suggestion on a temperature that everyone would be happy
with? Thanks in advance for your input and dedication to helping the
hobby, (and hobbyist.)
< Go with 77 F and thanks for your kind words.-Chuck>
Enough already? Adding Melanotaeniids to a largely FW Amazon mix
1/31/07
Hi,
<Hello>
Thanks for running such a fantastic site. It has been a real help with a whole
bunch of questions that I have had. However, I now have one that I am not sure
how to work out the answer to.
<We're in the same boat...>
I'd really like to add a few Dwarf Neon Rainbows to my tank (Juwel Rekord 96l /
25g US). Ideally 2 males and 4 females as I read that you need a 1:2 male
female ratio.
<Better than "even pairs" yes>
The staff at more than one LFS have said that it would be fine, but I suspect
that I am pretty much up against the carrying capacity of my set up. As it has
been healthy (more or less) for the year or so since it was set up, I don't want
to risk messing things up. The current
inhabitants are:
9 x Neon Tetra
5 X Oto
6 x Amano Shrimp
3 x Corydoras
What do you think?
<Mmm, there's room enough, but the Rainbows do "like" different water quality
than the fishes you presently have... likely some "middling ground" could/can be
found to suit all here though>
Enough already, or should I go for the Rainbows? I
guess the alternative would be to wait until some of my fish die off through
(hopefully) old age.
Thanks in advance.
Phil
<Do take a read on... WWM, Fishbase.org re the water conditions of all these
fish species. Bob Fenner>
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