Worried about my RES 1/31/08
Hello Crew,
<Hiya Amanda - Darrel here tonight!>
I have looked over almost every question on your site and haven't found the answer I need.
<let's see if we can't fix that here tonight>
I'm not sure how old my sliders are but I have two one male one female, Both about 6 inches long.
<Respectable size for a female .... HUGE for a male. Does he have the elongated front claws that males get?>
The female had an eye infection a few months ago so I did what I was told and separated them, and gave her a sulfa- dip 3 hours a day for 7 days. The infection seemed to be gone and she was more then ready to get back in her bigger tank. A couple days ago I noticed she was spending extra time on the basking platform under her light. Every time I come near the tank she stretches her neck out, puffs it up and starts opening and closing her mouth. I called the store where I got (they helped me with the eye infection) and all they said was she is going blind.
<Perhaps they are turtle psychics?>
That doesn't make sense to me.
<Nor to me ... in the first place, if the turtle is going blind how would it see you to puff up and snap at you?>
Do you have any idea what she is doing? Her eyes are clear and not puffy, the tank is clean and running well. She has a basking lamp, filter and a heater which is set at 76 degrees. Please help me.
<I'd like to see the temperature under the basking lamp to be 88-92 degrees and no heater at all in the water (unless you live in Alaska or keep them in an unheated room. General rule, no heater for turtles!>
<Now down to Miss Snappy. Let's start simply -- is she active and eating? Swims well? Has no trouble hauling out to bask and regardless of how often ... does eventually dip back into the water all by herself? If the answer to all of these is "yes" then my guess is that each time you walk up to the tank she puffs up & gapes at you as if to say "I'M NOT GOING BACK INTO THAT ICKY SULFA WITHOUT A FIGHT, MISSY!!!!" If that's the case, giver her time to get over the feeling of being threatened>
<If any answer is "no" then write back and give us more information>
Thank you very much.
Amanda

PLEASE HELP!! RES hlth.  1/31/08
Dear Crew,
<Hiya Ed>
My girlfriend decided to buy a poor little Red Eared Slider that was slightly larger than a quarter and had me take care of it.
<One of the many drawbacks to having a girlfriend is that they are ALWAYS bringing their turtles over ... day & night ....>
I've only had it for 4 days and today when I got home he stuffed himself in a corner. When I moved him out to see him he had a huge blister between his head and his right claw. The blister was easily bigger than his head and the skin had completely peeled off. It was a clear blister with red blood I assume pooled at the bottom of the blister. It looks horrible. As soon as I saw I made some calls to the local vets but all the reptile vets where closed for the day and the emergency center told me to wait till tomorrow to call a rep vet. I tried putting him in a sulfa dip but the E.R. vet said not to because of the blister. I took him out put him in a 10 gallon tank with a heater set to 78 degrees with clean water only an inch and a half deep with a basking rock and a heating lamp. The rock is far enough out of the water where he can stay relatively dry and still have easy access to the water. What should I do? Put him back in the dip or what kind of meds should I get him.
<He doesn't need to be in the water at all right now, Ed. Take him out and place him somewhere warm and dry. If you CAN ... coat the blister with Betadine (Iodine solution) if you can coat the blister without getting it into his eyes, nose or mouth -- just a drop or two -- and wait to see the Vet>
I'm planning on visiting the vet but am afraid its going to cost me a lot. I don't mind paying but if its an excessive amount I'm not sure if that's an option for me at this point.
<I understand. Most people don't realize that a veterinarian goes through the same length of training as a human doctor (MD) and has to deal with dozens of different types of patients, none of which can even tell him or her where it hurts. Often a Vet visit is even more costly that a human visit.>
I really want this turtle to live because I already have another Red Eared Slider in a similar tank that is already 4 inches big. I've never had a single problem with him so that's why I'm so shocked about what happened to this little guy. Please help.
<I hope you can arrange a visit with the Vet, Ed. The cost will be well worth the piece of mind for the office visit and I doubt that actual treatment will be that complicated. My guess is the vet will aspirate the blister, coat it with a topical antibiotic and tell you to keep him warm & dry for 8-9 days.>
Ed

Red Eared Slider - Black Lines  -01/30/08
Hello!
<Hiya Samson, Darrel here>
I have a quick question about my Red Eared Sliders. They are about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter. Recently, I have noticed that the lines between their plates are getting black and becoming thicker. I was wondering if this is natural, because when I see other turtle pictures, their shell has no black lines between the plates and it appears shiny. Could it be from my turtle's diet? My turtles are in a 20 gallon tank with a UVB light, heat lamp, and heater. I used to feed them a few pellets a day, feeder fish (once in a while), and veggies (once in a while). After reading your help tips I plan on feeding them a larger amount, because before, I did not feed them a lot since I feared they would get fat :] Anyways, I am worried about the black lines on their shell. Is there any way I can make their shell look better? Thank You!
<So far, everything seems just fine. The black lines in the margins (between the scutes) is completely normal in juveniles and that fact that you can see it clearly is a credit to your efforts as a pet keeper. Keep up the good work!!! one thing -- skip the feeder fish, OK? When it's treat time, feed them a couple night crawlers (earth worms) from the pet store -- they usually come in a container of a dozen, so feed them a couple and put the rest out in a garden.>
Samson

VERY sick little turtle 12/20/07
Hi guys hope you can help me with this.
<Hello again>
I'll try make it short -I have a sick 5gm red eared slider-symptoms are gasping for air /not eating since 3 months/wasting/tilt in water/doesn't like water anymore/swollen eyes/red marks between scutes [looks like blood]/bones are becoming softer lately. She still passes urine ,sometimes stool. There is absolutely no vets familiar with turtles here N.B. I just graduated from medical school and I can give her IM injections in hind limb
<The first thing to say here is that a 5 gram baby turtle that has been ill for 90 days in usually in very bad shape and at this point the odds don't favor her. This is not to say we won't give it a try>
My attempts for treatment:
1-a course of Chloramphenicol 50mg/kg for 11 days---->made the neck swelling nearly go away till reaching a point of no further improvement then I stopped it
<You've written about this before, Ahmed and I'm going to tell you the same thing again -- Chloramphenicol is an antimicrobial used mainly in treating amphibians and certain fungal infections and not normally prescribed for turtles>
<*>
<*>
<OK everyone, listen up and pay attention. As I've told you all and Ahmed on previous occasions, I'm not a veterinarian nor, as far as I've been told, is anyone here on Wet Web. Consequently it is not our position or desire to recommend drugs, dosages, courses of treatment that IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM is to be taken as a substitute for actual veterinary medicine, OK?>
<*>
<When you have an animal that is noticeably ill, it is my advice and the advice of WWM that you seek out proper medical advice from a trained professional and that you follow that advice.
<*>
2-after about weeks of the first course Lincospectin for 4 days [I wasn't sure about the dose and there was nearly no improvement so I quit it ] +3 injections of {vitamin A, C and E} with a day or 2 interval between each other
<Continue the vitamins and add calcium unless you're sure she's getting enough in her diet, otherwise her body is leeching the calcium from her bones to keep her heart pumping>
3-then I tried putting dissolving Oxytetracycline in the water {a fish vet told me to} I did that for 5 days and today is day 6------>not sure if there is an improvement
4-tank water is dechlorinated and I change it everyday ,temperature is about 27C/UVB she is quarantined N.B: these were not the conditions before she gets sick {was worse}
<Take her out of the water and keep her warm and dry. Continually being wet when she's unable to properly regulate is an invitation to a secondary infection and/or fungus even in the best of cases. Put her in water for 5 minutes a day to hydrate and perhaps eat and then out again. warm and dry!>
5-the site of injection I use is indurated and shows swelling after injections wonder if the antibiotics get absorbed -
what I am asking for is:
1-what do u think about the condition and about what we can do?
2-Shall I use another course of antibiotics? if so----PLEASE mention the names and their doses the antibiotics that I can get are:
1-enrofloxacin
<This is generic Baytril, which I've recommended to you in prior emails. 10 mg/Kg once a day for 15 days. You'll have to dilute it with sterile water in order to bring the dose down AND because it has a tendency to burn the skin at the injection site -- and you already have a problem with finding useable sites now.>
hope u can help me
waiting for your reply
thanks for your time
<That's all I have for now, Ahmed -- I hope it helps -- Darrel>

Turtle Egg Problems   12/9/07
Hi there,
<Hello - Darrel here>
A few weeks ago I got my red eared slider from a cousin, who kept her in poor conditions (no UV light, water often dirty, fed raw chicken). She now has proper environmental conditions here.
<Glad to hear that>
For the past week she has been in nesting mode and has laid several eggs but is unable to lay the rest (at least 5, as seen in x-ray at vet). She seems satisfied with nesting conditions (access to potting soil, plenty of warmth, light etc) and her appetite is still robust. She is unresponsive to Oxytocin and calcium injections.
<OK, she's having access to good veterinary care as well, congratulations. Are you giving the injections or the vet? The only reason I ask is that I ran into someone once who'd been sent home with Oxytocin that was administering the injections in the front limbs as you would an antibiotic when it has to be injected in the rear of the animal to be effective. Just a double check on that detail>
Instead, she is excreting stringy material, some bright yellow, some pinkish or red, from 1 to 3 cm in length. The yellow ones are more common. They are curly. What are these? Embryos and yolk strings? Dead parasites (they do not move)?
<It's likely that they are the crushed/destroyed remnants of some eggs as well as some dried blood from the process. This would indicate that the Oxytocin IS working but that the eggs were just too old to move smoothly. Without examination that would be my best guess.>
I'd rather try everything before we move on to surgery. Suggestions? Could an infection be to blame? Does she just need more time? Problems from poor nutrition at her prior home?
<All of the above can be playing a role. Many of the attributes from poor conditions and diet linger and a few never go away. What you could do (in this case ask the Vet to do) is to irrigate & flush the ova tract with fluid once a day for a few days. Dried eggs stick to the tract as if they were glued in place yet they will soften just a bit and it reduces the tearing of the duct walls. Whether this will be any real benefit remains to be seen. If it were me, I wouldn't delay the surgery because at this point there's nothing to be gained from letting those eggs remain in place. Eventually they'll calcify and become so attached to the duct walls that surgery would leave her unable to lay more eggs>
Your comments are much appreciated!
<Let us know how it works out>
 

A swollen turtle needs examination  11/12/07 Hi, <Hello> I have a Red Eared Slider, I have had him for a while now and he has been doing fine. I'm not to sure what's wrong with him now, this morning he was swimming around and looked healthy, but when I came home from work he doesn't want to move, his eyes stay shut, and he looks swollen on his legs and around his tail (butt). It's very swollen looking and it looks like a clear skin... is he ok? <I'm sorry to hear this, Angela. I'm not sure what's wrong either but it sure doesn't sound good.> <First, let's get him out of the water. If he's in distress at all, he doesn't need the added work of trying to swim or regulate temperature. Put him somewhere warm (around 90 degrees, no hotter) and dry and allow him to rest. When you say he's swollen you mean everything, correct? The skin seems puffy and the spaces inside where the legs go and the skin attaches to the shell seem inflated? These can be signs of internal gas build-up brought on by an infection, but also from a number of other sources. The best thing to do, of course, is have him seen by a competent veterinarian.> What can I do? <In this instance, your turtle needs to be physically examined by someone with experience possibly, if there is a store near you that specializes in reptiles, someone there might give you better advice than you'd get from a regular pet shop. Also, look on the Internet for a turtle or tortoise club near you. Usually they have a phone number for someone who can get you in touch with an experienced keeper that can examine him and help you determine the cause. Until then, keep him warm and dry and place him in water for just a few minutes each day to drink and possibly eat.> Please help!! <One of the more frustrating elements of keeping fish and reptiles or almost any 'exotic' animal is that they're very stoic -- which is to say that they hide any and all signs of their weakness or illness very well. In the wild, it makes sense to never let the predators see that you're weak or injured -- it's a viable survival technique. But in captivity, they also disguise their conditions from us ... until they are so ill or so weak that they can't hide it anymore. So to us, our fish and reptiles often look healthy and then very suddenly they appear very, very sick. I hope you can find a veterinarian or experienced keeper in your area to help you examine him and find out what's wrong.> <Regards, Darrel> Re: A swollen turtle needs examination 11/19/07 Thank you so much!! He is already starting to look better and his legs are starting to get back to normal. I have a very small amount of water in the tank right now with the rock he sits on.. he finally jumped off the rock and back in the water :) speedy says thank you.. and so does my daughter) thanks again for responding!!! <We're always happy to help, Angela!>

Hatchling Slider with odd behavior 10/21/07
I wrote you recently about a hatchling Red Eared Slider that was exhibiting some strange behavior; spinning in circles as it swims, flipping on it's back and stretching it's neck up and back over it's shell. It has a great appetite, basks regularly and spends equal time in the water. I keep the water temp around 80 deg. and the air temp in the aquarium basking area at 90. The turtle cannot swim below the surface. It spins in circles as it swims because it is trying to get to the bottom and cannot. When it wants to go to the bottom it clings to objects in the aquarium and descends them holding on with its claws. The flipping on it's back is also a result of it's struggle to get to and explore the bottom. I have even held the turtle to the bottom for a sec. or two and then let go and it quickly rises to the top like a fishing bobber submerged and then released. The Slider's' appearance is healthy and maintains a good appetite. It is fed a balanced diet 3 times a week. Could the turtle have underdeveloped lungs, one working lung, or some sort of equilibrium imbalance?
<Those are all possibilities, Lorie. In addition to those sometimes a pocket of gas can be generated from an internal infection and I've actually seen turtles act this way temporarily because they simply had ... gas!>
<At the moment, your best course of action and treatment is to pay SCRUPULOUS attention to detail regarding habitat, water quality and hygiene. Read and re-read the article here: (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm) and compare your keeping to the suggestions. First off, I'd lower the water temp to something around 72 degrees (That's around 22.5 for those of you living in the developed world) and give him a wider "choice" for his thermoregulation pleasure. Next I'd make sure that he's getting unfiltered UV lighting when he is basking.>
It seems to have poor judgment skills; when it eats, it attacks the food but often misjudges and misses them. <One of the endearing traits of turtles is their often comical behavior -- but let's stay away from terms like "Poor Judgment" unless you catch him ordering products from late night TV infomercials or sending money to a Nigerian lawyer.>
I'm searching for answers about its condition have been unsuccessful.
<It's difficult TO answer because what you're describing is a consequence of some condition -- much like seeing someone with a limp and trying to guess how he got it>
I wonder if it is a permanent condition, or will it grow out of it.....or worse, die?
<Once again, yes -- it could be any of those things. GENERALLY speaking ... if an animal is thriving, which is to say "active, alert, feeding and growing" then they will either grow out of or learn to compensate for any handicaps they may have. Once in a while an animal can exhibit every trait of thriving and compensating and then one day, suddenly and unexpectedly, succumb to a condition or disease that they've been carrying almost since birth. Technically, a trip to an experienced Herp Veterinarian and the resulting $698.20 medical bill would yield a guess from an expert ... but still only a guess ... with the likely result being that you're told to pay attention to habitat, water quality and hygiene until a more clear-up symptom appeared. When the responsible pet keeper does his or her part in providing a superior habitat, Red Eared Sliders can be amazingly hardy.>
<regards -- Darrel>

Re: Slider in crisis - past? 10/30/07
Thank you guys you are the best
<We try>
I didn't reply earlier as I was waiting to see what happens next
<Story of MY life, too>
I have some good news and some bad news 1st bad news: about the injections, I couldn't do it she is too tiny (5gm)
<I'm not sure I get the connection there, but O.K.>
I went to the reptile specialist of the zoo (shockingly he didn't know much more than I did)
<Not as shocking to me, either>
Good news is someone told me about applying cod liver oil drops to her eyes I did and it improved dramatically (she became awake nearly all day) I got her some worms and she seems to love them she now eats exclusively worms and she moves (she was not moving freely for about a month)
<There's nothing particularly about Cold Liver Oil that would clear up a respiratory infection, but there's a saying that dates back to the earliest medical treatment in the cave man days: Nothing succeeds like success -- if she's up & eating and we're not merely disguising a bigger problem, then we just be happy! >
SO MY FIRST QUESTION IS :IS THIS AN IMPROVEMENT??
<You're there with her and we're all WAYYYYY over here ... so you tell us>
Anyway later I stopped applying the oil drops to her eyes instead I was putting it on the worms (dried) then after about 4 days she closed 1 eye then the other
<Off hand I'd say this doesn't seem like an improvement>
Q.2: SHALL I USE IT AGAIN AS EYE DROPS??
<I'm not as convinced as you are that they did anything other than provide her some comfort>
I noticed something else though through out the period when she opened her eyes its color was white (other than the pupil) not greenish as it used to be
<The Iris is white? Or the eye is surrounded by a fungal coating? I'd need a much deeper description to discern anything meaningful here, but it's beginning to sound like an eye infection, which I would treat with topical Neomycin OR the Chloramphenicol you keep mention.>
3rd:IS THIS DUE TO AN INFECTION???
CAN I USE ANTIBIOTICS FOR IT??
<I think we covered antibiotics earlier, didn't we? You couldn't use them>
About the calcium deficiency which is increasing she doesn't eat other than worms she doesn't want to eat cuttlefish bone I tried spraying calcium carbonate on the food but I guess I do it wrong (doesn't seem to work) I read about getting the worms gut loaded with calcium but I don't know how
<Let's try to get her off of a diet that's not healthy for her in the first place, OK? Obtain some Repto-Min food sticks and feed her one or two of those soaked in water. Sliders are omnivorous eaters and it's highly unlikely that she'll refuse them if she's really hungry. You can dust the sticks with ReptiCal for a general-purpose vitamin supplement.>
4th: How can I supply calcium or get the worms gut loaded with it?
<See above>
About the antibiotics I don't have except Chloramphenicol and I read that its dose for turtles is 50mg/kg I might try doing it again if it's the only way
<The advice I gave you in the past letter was an emergency situation that included the possibility of imminent death. If that isn't the case then I repeat that you need to seek competent veterinary advice>
Q.6: Is there an antibiotic that CAN BE GIVEN ORALLY? IS THE DOSE THAT I MENTIONED RIGHT?
<There are no oral forms of the common antibiotics used to treat internal infections in turtles that can be administered to such a small animal, Ahmed. The oral forms are enclosed in HUGE pills including 99.97% inactive ingredients to protect the animal's stomach (usually a horse, llama or camel) from the caustic active ingredients -- just not terribly appropriate for your needs. Your case presents as an indication of injectibles.>
<1 Make sure she's warm and dry and access to very CLEAN water>
<2 Make sure she has access to very direct (completely unfiltered even by window screen) sunlight -or failing that- direct exposure to UV light>
<3 Moderate amounts of food>
<4.Address [possible] the eye infection, any fungal patches and/or skin ulcerations individually>
<Best of luck - Darrel>

Please help, RES hlth., Neale chimes in  10/16/07
I seriously need help and hope somebody replies.
<we'll see what we can do - Darrel here>
I have a baby Red Eared Slider. It has been my pet for about 7 months now.
She has been sick over the past month through which she ate only 2 bites of fish.
About the nutritional history she didn't like any kinds of food except cooked chicken and meat and fish and egg white.
She was the best in health and was too active all the time she used to like basking in the sun (than the other) at 1st it stopped eating at all then her eyes were swollen and kinda white and maybe I saw her sneezing or coughing and having a nose bubble a few times all that disappeared except not eating and swollen eyes.
<There are some nutritional issues here, but we'll get back to them>
Then I took her to a vet (the most popular I know) and he looked very not experienced with them he said its the disease of the eye its herpes and its fatal and its non treatable I kinda wasn't convinced) but its really kinda difficult here to find a vet who is good with turtles.
<True>
Anyway after that she started GASPING FOR AIR and making noise from time to time while breathing and her neck is swollen too (ears) I suspected a respiratory infection I raised the temperature of the water to 30 C for two weeks now with no improvement and now she always stands on the hind limbs (as if standing on legs )while she is leaning on the walls of the container NOW maybe the swelling around eyes is not that much instead the skin around the eyes is darker and she kinda cant open them the neck is swollen she is very wasted doesn't eat anything the most posterior part of the shell (the part she stands on) is going soft she sometimes does an EXAGGERATED gasping that looks scary but goes away if I make her stand as she likes.
<I see ...>
IS THERE ANYTHING I CAN DO I want 2 give her antibiotic injections but I don't know how or where exactly in the forearms and I don't know about the dose and we don't have Baytril so I was planning to give her either Ampicillin or Chloramphenicol wish somebody can help me with that.
<I'm truly sorry for your troubles, Ahmed. Your turtle is truly sick and there may be not all that much that can be done. I'm not sure about a Herpes diagnosis and your guess about upper respiratory infection seems more in line -- certainly more typical. Baytril would be the treatment of choice but it's expensive, hard to administer and strange as it may seem, is very stressful to an already stressed animal.>
<The first thing I'd do is remove her from the water except for a few minutes each day to bathe, drink and eat. Other than that, keep her warm (around 31-32 C) but not cooked under a heat lamp. Natural sunlight is a very potent ally in this fight, but getting enough without overheating her is going to be a challenge. I'd like to hear more about what treatment the veterinarian gave her. I'd also like a second opinion here. Neale?>
<Darrel,
I agree with you the Herpes diagnosis sounds dubious. The description is much more like a standard bacterial infection of the respiratory tract (essentially pneumonia-like infections). Pretty common among reptiles when kept in less than perfect conditions. Anyway, the only way to cure this particular little terrapin is for the owner to find a vet experienced in treating reptiles. Most are not, and such vets will be a complete waste of time and money. In the short term the owner must take special care to avoid chilling the reptile. But without antibiotics it isn't going to get better, and only a vet can decide the precise antibiotic to use for this particular infection. In fact because the infection is probably caused by multiple bacteria, the vet is likely going to have to use a cocktail of drugs. Your correspondent could point their vet at the following page of the Merck Manual for more. http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/171407.htm
Hope this helps,
Cheers, Neale>
<So there's your second opinion and he brings up a good point. If you can't find a good reptile vet in your area, it is certainly reasonable to print out some information for him.>

Re: please help: RES hlth.  – 10/18/07
First of all
Thanks for your reply Darrel
<You're welcome>
about the vet he didn't suggest any treatment he said either she is going to live or die and there is no treatment for viral infection. I suggested that if he was sure we can use antiviral (acyclovir) which is used in human and iguanid herpes he said its not effective (but he looked like he didn't know).
<Neale and I agree that a viral cause is not likely. Hoof beats=horses, not zebras. Think URI>
I searched up the net and I found a little about herpes except for sea turtles and it looked awful (fibropapillomatosis) and I found a lot about pneumonia and that if I had these symptoms I should see a vet which is useless in our case.
<My friend Doug Mader DVM does a significant amount of surgery for the Sea Turtle Rescue program in Marathon Key, Fl and I can assure you that your turtle doesn't have that.>
SO if I am going to do something its going to be done by ME even if it was injections I know its going to be difficult as she is sooo tiny (about an inch and half) but if I can do something its better than watch her die
<Welcome to the club Ahmed. We routinely spend ridiculous amounts of time and money on our pets -- often way out of proportion to our budgets -- for that very reason>
The 2nd problem here is that in case it is bacterial not viral, there is no "Baytril" that's why I suggested Chloramphenicol
<Well, the vet IS right about one thing. If it is viral there is little to be done, but it's not. Everything you describe sounds bacterial.>
The 3rd is the dose and site of injection I read in an article that it should be 2 mg/kg (mine is in grams) about the site I read that it should be in the front legs (but which part???????!!!!)
<*>
<READERS Please note: The following is an emergency condition under which I am violating a basic principle of responsible pet care. I am giving specific medical advice without myself being a medical professional or even examining the patient. I am doing this based on an ongoing communications with the pet owner and after consultation with a colleague in which we both believe that (A) there is no other path available to the pet owner and that (B) doing nothing will result in certain death for the pet and that (C) - read below - the pet owner has a reasonable chance of being able to obtain and administer the required treatment.>
<*>
<This is NOT to be taken even REMOTELY as standard advice or even worse, to be thought of as a reasonable standard of care: A reasonable standard of care in cases such as this is to find a responsible and experienced Herp (reptile) veterinarian and follow his of her advice to the letter! PERIOD!>
<*>
<I'd have no problem doubling that dose to 5 or even 8mg/kg for a case that's been going on this long. The injections may be given intra-muscular (into a thick part of a muscle) or subcutaneous (just under the skin.) Evidence suggests that it's quite irritating to the animal, so diluting it 50/50 with sterile saline AND then injecting that half in each front leg is acceptable. Reduce to 3-4 mg after 3 days for the balance of 21 days.>
There is another problem though which is she doesn't eat (it's been a month now) and she doesn't open her eyes except if I keep bothering her till she only opens one eye but they're not much swollen now but their skin is dark.
<A tiny bit of liquid calcium and liquid vitamins orally (grimace - or even injectable) wouldn't hurt>
About the condition I am keeping her in 12x6 inches with little water only enough for her to walk not swim (she usually even doesn't walk she just stands on 2 back legs resting on the wall) the water is always clean and dechlorinated and the temp is 30 C is this enough????!!
<At the moment, I'd rather see her dry & warm and only hydrated (bathed) a few minutes a day.>
If you can help teach me about the injection thing or tell me what to do that would be great
<That's the best we can tell you right now, Ahmed and we're all hoping it helps>
N.B: I am in medical school (last year) so um kinda familiar with scientific talk an injections but not to turtles of course
<Ahmed the sad truth about reptile and fish medicine is that by the time we keepers notice their illness, it's usually in a very advanced state. The reason so many exotics (which in this case includes turtles and fish) are lost under veterinary care has as much to do with the fact that only very advanced cases are even noticed by us as it does finding a qualified vet. Never in the history of the world has the phrase "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" been more a reality than in animal husbandry. We're doing everything we can do for your little girl and we're all hopeful, but at the same time, as I think you realize, the odds do not favor us. Still, move ever forward with hope as our light>
Thanks again
<Best Wishes. Darrel, Neale, Bob & everyone else at WWM>

My Red Eared Slider is sick! 10/16/07
Hi,
<Hiya -- Darrel here>
I found a baby Red Eared Slider turtle in a dry plastic container 1 year ago. It was the size of a toonie.
<You're Canadian, eh?>
I rescued the poor little turtle and I noticed that his shell was really soft and there was a slimy white guck around his mouth. I would remove it with a q-tip everyday so he could eat and I would brush his shell with soap. The slime disappeared after treating him with a fungal medication and his shell became hard. I always had to hand feed him because he wasn't able to do it by himself. I have a feeling he is blind due to the fungal infection he previously had. He has no sense of directions and he keeps knocking his head in the glass. He panics all the time and splashes the water everywhere.
<While it sounds like he has some problems, YOU seem to be doing a great job>
Today after I cleaned his tank, I noticed that his mouth was open under the water. After examining him for a couple of minutes, some orange stuff came out of his mouth. He puked like three times. I don't know what's wrong with him. I noticed that there was some green spots on his floating bridge. I wonder if that's making him sick. Is there anything I can do? How do I make him eat on his own? I was also wondering about how to keep his tank clean. I seriously need to wash his 15 gallon tank once a day because it stinks so badly. I tried three different kinds of filters and none of them worked. Any info would be great.
<The first thing is that you're right -- one turtle under three inches (7.6 cm) should not be fowling a 15 gallon tank in a day. Put him in a different container for a day or two, scrub this one thoroughly with bleach (take safety precautions) and kill any and all kinds of organics. If there's gravel, wash it in beach as well. Filters, filter tubes, logs .. everything that comes in contact with the water. I suspect that you have some waterborne parasites, fungus and/or mold.>
<Meanwhile, let him stay dry and warm, clean the shell and mouth area as you have been doing and see that he gets ample amounts of sunlight or UVA/B lighting. When you finally put the tank back together (after rinsing 3 or 4 times and letting it sit for a day or two) don't feed him in there. Take him out to a small container, bowl or whatever and feed him there. My guess is that keeping his habitat cleaner will go a long way to keeping him healthier.>
<Now, as to the regurgitation, you could be looking at a severe parasite infestation or even an advanced infection. Without a trip to the vet you won't know for sure, but being dry and warm for a few days will help both possible conditions.>
Thank you for your time.
<Hope it helps>

Turtle Care - 10/08/2007
Dear WWM Crew,
<Greetings,>
I have emailed you previously regarding to a sick turtle of mine. Thank you very much for your reply, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately, the turtle died on the fourth day after purchase. I suspect her death was caused by pneumonia. Frankly, I'm still feeling very sad about it.
<Hmm... pneumonia relatively uncommon, and without access to a microbiology lab, not something you can prove. Mostly turtles die from not enough warmth, poor water quality, lack of vitamins, wrong diet, etc. Review basic care before justifying your conclusion here.>
The other turtle, Alphonse, is quite healthy. He's grown to about 1.5 inches. I've noticed that he likes to bite a lot. When the other turtle was alive, I noticed that he bit her feet and shell for a few times. Is that normal?
<Yes.>
I thought about getting another turtle, but I am afraid that Alphonse might attack, so I did not.
<Red-ears are basically tolerant, but males at least will try and establish a pecking order. No harm is done, provided there's enough space. They don't *need* friends though, so if you don't want to buy another specimen, don't.>
Currently, I have a 10 gallon tank, a floating dock for him to bask on, UVA and UVB lamps, and a submersible heater. I change his water and clean the tank every 3-4 days.
<Too small... these animals need a 20 gallon tank from the start simply to maintain good water quality, and once a few inches long you need something closer to 55 gallons. Please bear in mind these are BIG animals. You also don't mention a filter. A filter is more useful that water changes, because a filter removes ammonia in "real time", while water changes merely dilute it periodically. Of course, you need to do water changes *as well*. When shopping for filters, look for one providing 5-6 times the volume of the water in turnover per hour. So in a 55 gallon tank, let's say half-filled with water, you want at least 5 times 22.2 gallons = 112.5 gallons per hour. You'll find the turnover rating on the filter pump and/or packaging.>
Also, I was wondering how long could RES babies go without food.
<Many days, even weeks. Reptiles are very good at fasting, especially when the temperature drops. But this isn't an issue for Red-ears. When you're away on holidays, simply stick a couple of bunches of Elodea or Cabomba in the aquarium. You can buy these plants in bunches from any aquarium shop, very cheaply (around here, they're around £1/$2 a bunch). The Red-ears will happily eat them while you're gone, and being plants, they don't pollute the water. They also stay alive until eaten, so can be used indefinitely.>
Currently, I feed him everyday in the morning (ZooMed aquatic turtle food + shrimp treats). But I need to travel in December, and I am quite concerned about leaving him by himself for 3 weeks. Should I find someone to take care of him while I'm away?
<Add more greens! Red-ears should receive about 50% their diet as green food when young, and 70%+ when adult. This is ESSENTIAL for their vitamins. Dried turtle food is best used as a treat: it lacks moisture, and many reptile keepers believe causes problems with constipation if used as the exclusive diet. So, try this, alternate between green and meaty foods each, i.e., one day they get greens, the next day dry or frozen foods.>
Thanks!
Allison
<Cheers, Neale>

Illegal Turtle, RES not on the lam, but sick-env.    – 08/26/07
Hi Crew,
I got my Red Eared Slider in Chinatown and later found that he was illegal.
<Hi Amanda -- First, you need to understand that your turtle is NOT illegal. He has done nothing wrong, broken no laws and is not subject to any penalties. Please make sure he understands this, OK? I'd hate to have him go through the rest of his life looking over his shoulder. Same goes for you. Nothing illegal about having him. It's illegal to sell or offer for sale any of a group of turtles with a carapace length of less than 4 inches except for a few purposes, one of which is educational. Are you learning? Then everything is fine -- so tell him it's OK!>
I've had my Red Eared Slider for about 6 months and it hasn't really grown. It's a hatchling about 1.5-2 inches in size. It's shell has gotten really soft and slightly deformed one side is caved in a little the other side is rounded), and he has pyramiding. This is probably due to not getting his UVB rays so I've begun taking him outside more and have ordered a UVB ray bulb. But lately he's been acting really strange, he's slow and lethargic and hasn't eaten much in the past few weeks, and within the last few days he's stopped eating all together. He also gets really stiff and doesn't always move when he is touched, even if his head gets touched. I don't know what is wrong with him or what to do, please help!
<I'm sorry to hear that, Amanda. And I agree with you, it seems like a lack of proper lighting, maybe diet and general conditions, too. I'm enclosing a link that I'd like you to read and really REALLY measure your care against this outline. Heat, light and proper diet is all it should really take. I'd like to think that if you read the enclosed guide and adhere SCRUPULOUSLY to what it says, you can help your little guy out and get him back on the right track.>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
--Amanda
<Regards -- Darrel>

Re: Illegal Turtle – 08/27/07
thanks for responding but its already too late, he died today. thanks anyways i appreciate the time you took to respond.
<On behalf of everyone here, Amanda, we are truly sorry for your loss. As responsible pet keepers we all have a responsibility to learn everything we learn and do everything within our power to see that our little friends get the best lives possible, but sometimes it's not enough or we're too late or we just make a mistake.>
<I think that a very good way to honor the time you had with him is to read the links and learn more about what is to be done and to make yourself ready and more prepared just in case another opportunity comes along.>
<All the best from all of us.>
<Darrel>

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question, sys., hlth.  – 08/26/07
Hi Neale,
I had another question about our Red Ear Slider Turtles, They are doing really well. I still need to get them a UVB light for them but money is tight. There was just one thing about there shell, I don't know if it is because they are growing but it seems almost as if the shell has a sandpaper type feel to it as to before it was smooth. That is it for now.
Thank You,
Ryan
<Hello Ryan. Glad the turtles (or terrapins, as we say here in the UK) are doing well. Yes, a UVB light *is* essential, and not something you can skimp on for too long. So while I appreciate economy, sometimes it's easier to spend a little up front than have to deal with the expensive problems of a sick turtle down the road. Now, as for shell texture. This can mean a variety of things. Healthy shell should buff dry and smooth when you wipe it with kitchen roll, so that it feels like fingernail to the touch. If the shell doesn't feel like that, you have a problem. Shell-rot is one problem, caused by bacteria and/or fungi. It's essentially identical to finrot on fishes, being caused by poor water quality and/or physical trauma. Treatment is similar too, using antibacterial or antibiotic medications. Shell-rot is usually associated with cracks, scratches, sores, smelly pus, etc. Left untreated, just like finrot, it can turn into septicaemia. Another common problem is "soft shell". The shell will feel pitted, as if it is dissolving away, and in places the shell will feel softer than in others. The two factors behind soft shell are UVB and calcium: your turtle needs both. The lamp provides the one, the diet the other. I hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question – 08/26/07
Hi Neale,
Going to go pick up a UVB light first thing tomorrow morning, I just have some questions. If I get a UVB light will I have to have an open top? Will the glass filter the UVB? Also the new growth on the turtles is smooth like a fingernail, it is the old stuff that has the sandpaper texture could it be the UVB not getting to them before when they were younger? They do not have any scratches, cracks, sores or smelly pus. So I think we are ok there.
Thanks,
Ryan
<Hello again Ryan! Yes, glass cuts out UV light, so the lamp needs to go under the hood, if you have one. Realistically, terrapins aren't that good at climbing, so assuming the vivarium is reasonably deep, you probably don't need a hood during the day. Put the hood back on at night to keep them warm. As for the shell, provided the new growth is sound, then the texture of the old growth is relatively unimportant. Old shell plates flake away eventually. I suspect you are on the money about the UVB being an issue with shell growth; problems with diet (calcium) and UVB are at the root of most problems people have with terrapins. Good luck, Neale.>

Red ear slider fishing accident – 07/30/07
I don't really have much of a question but I would still like to share this. Earlier today, me and a couple family members decided to go fishing at a public pond. We were not catching much of anything until my dad hooked a red ear slider. He struggled with the hissing critter to try and dislodge the hook which was embedded in it's tongue. After a couple of minutes the hook snapped in half and after realizing part of it was still in it's mouth I turned to my dad. "We need to take it in, We need to take it in!" I told him. After he figured it would be okay he tossed it back in. I feel horrible about it. I could have done more to help it. I expressed this to my father but by then the turtle was long gone. What baffled me was that this was the second time he hooked one just not in the same day. I don't think the turtles in a public pond could be hungry enough to go for bait. I do think they are used to the company of people and a little too friendly for their own good. This whole situation is really bothering me and I just need to let someone know. Maybe you can use this and if so I hope it can help some other people. Thank you for listening.
<Hello Saundra. Well, it's hard to know how the terrapin your captured will do with half a hook in its mouth. It may fall out by itself eventually; or it may remain in place for the next 30 years of its life; or it may turn septic and kill the turtle slowly (and painfully) over days or weeks from blood poisoning. Take your pick and pray to the Turtle Gods. If this was me, I'd have taken more care about removing the hook, but if the hook had snapped, then this was perhaps a time to take the terrapin to the local humane society animal sanctuary for first aid. As for the fact a red-ear slider took the bait, that's not real surprising. They're omnivores that snap at anything. They've become established in some ponds here in England, and periodically eat ducklings, much to the consternation of parents trying to console distraught children who've just seen cute little yellow bundles of feathers being dismembered by a "Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle"! So the fact they have a go at something as easy as fishing bait doesn't surprise me one bit. Cheers, Neale>

Slider surprise, dis.   7/31/07
Hey guys,
<Hello.>
You helped me out with a question about my two little slider hatchlings back in June, I was hoping you could shed some light on this strange occurrence. As I said, I've got two small hatchlings, one about two inches long and the other about three. I have had to keep them apart for awhile since the one has had a respiratory infection. After extended Baytril treatments, she seems to be recovering and gaining weight. Just very slowly getting over the injection site blister.
<Cool. Reptiles can be slow to recover from diseases, partly because we know so little about the pathology of reptile diseases. Optimal diet, ample UVB light, and lots of warmth are the three keys though.>
I felt it was time to put them into a common tank and get them used to each other again. The tank is very clean with just some water and floating dock for now since I am only putting them in there for a few hours a day while I monitor their behavior towards each other. But the first couple of times I put them in, the smaller slider started growing this long (4-5"), thin, white, ribbon-like substance out of its rear end. It didn't take long to get long. And it finished and came free after about 10 minutes. The turtle doesn't seem to have any ill effects.
But it has happened several times and it hasn't ever happened to the other slider who has always been healthy. Any ideas what this substance is?
<This sounds a lot like intestinal worms, possibly a type of flatworm given your description of the worm as "ribbon-like" though flatworms are more typical of predatory reptiles than herbivores like red-ear terrapins. Not uncommon among farm-reared terrapins, especially if the conditions on the farm were less than perfect. Treatment is tricky because some of the common de-worming drugs used on mammals and fish can be lethal to terrapins (such as Piperazine). Instead, drugs like Fenbendazole are used instead, dosed at 2/3rds the body mass of the terrapin (the other 1/3rd is taken to be shell). Because of the complications involved with diagnosing the type of worm and choosing the appropriate drug, it is an extremely good idea to consult a vet before doing anything else. The terrapin *won't* get better by itself, so doing nothing isn't an option. Obviously the main problem with worms is that they prevent the terrapin from putting on weight. In the longer term, they can end up killing the terrapin.>
Thank you for your time,
Kevin
<You're welcome. Neale>

Shell is Dark and my thoughts are cold - 06/27/07
Hey,
I have had my RES for a few months now got him from the pet store everything was fine until a few weeks ago my turtle's shell is dark and around the right side the shell is its normal color the shell has been dark for quiet some time was hoping it would turn back to its normal color The turtle eats about every four days turtle bites i try to not feed it so much a few bites at a time and he swims around sometimes but usual he stays in one spot however i have noticed that he is not basking like he used too the water is at 70-72 and its warm here so i know the basking area is a lot warmer i am just unsure of what i should do please advise
Amanda
<Amanda, I hate to seem unduly fussy here. I usually run people's letters through a spell checker and often I'll clean up the sentence structure just a bit -- so that our kind readers might better understand. In THIS case, Amanda, the problem is that I, your intended helper ... don't even understand. Your email is one long run-on sentence with only the occasional capitalization to guide me in picking out sentence fragments from a morass of seemingly random words. With that said, it's not my intention to punish the turtle or even you -- but I'd like you to understand that as I repeat your letter below, my answers are based on a GUESS of what I think you said ... and it would be so much better for your turtle if I knew more exactly. OK? So here goes:
Hey,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I have had my Red Eared Slider for a few months now.
I got him from the pet store.
Everything was fine until a few weeks ago when his shell began to turn dark.
<A Slider's shell will darken with age, but since it happened so quickly we should be concerned that water quality, sunlight (UVA & UVB), temperature and diet can all be problems that will cause the shell to darken.>
My turtle's shell is dark and around the right side the shell is its normal color. The shell has been dark for quite some time was hoping it would turn back to its normal color.
<This is a problem, Amanda -- I just don't know what you mean. The entire right side? The rim of the shell? You've only had the turtle for a few weeks, so did this begin right away?>
The turtle eats about every four days.
<That's fine. Probably best if he ate every other day, but it's best to underfeed than to over feed>
turtle bites
<what?>
I try to not feed it so much {just} a few bites at a time
<That's fine, too. Tell me, WHAT do you feed him?>
and he swims around sometimes but usually he stays in one spot.
However I have noticed that he is not basking like he used to.
The water is at 70-72 and its warm here so I know the basking area is lot warmer.
<Warm to you may not be warm to him>
I am just unsure of what I should do.
<My very first guess is diet - that he's not eating the right THINGS and so he's not digesting them properly. Koi Pellets. Tetra-Min food sticks are good ... lettuce, hamburger, veggies, brine shrimp, etc. are not good.>
Please advise.
<Please write back with the following things:
1)How big is he?
2)What do you feed him?
3)How do you keep the water clean?
4)The top shell (called a carapace) is divided down the center ridge and into little plates called scutes. Is the darkening all over the shell, or all over just a portion of the shell? If so, what portion? I want to help you but I need a clearer explanation of what you are seeing.
5) Add some punctuation, please.>
Amanda

Re: Turtle -- progress report– 7/10/07
Hey guys...
<Hiya right back>
Hope all is well in your worlds.
<In general, yes - thank you for thinking of us>
I wanted to let you know that my lil guy is great now! Warm water was the key to the appetite thing...now he is a chow hound, and seems to have all his instincts kicking in. He has a couple of temporary tank mates for this month and he seems to be more at home with some friends. I think the calcium thing could be great but won't it just float off into the water since they eat underwater?
<A little bit will, some will stick to the worm -- and it's just something to try>
Well, it's worth a shot!
<Yes, but if he's eating and active then just keep up a balanced diet and he'll be fine without supplements>
Thanks for the time and the consideration that you put into your replies, his shell no longer has the striation thing and though he is still a bit soft around the edges he is doing quite well. Once more thank you for all the information.
<You're more than welcome -- we're here to help!>
<Darrel>

Turtle in trouble 6/22/07
Wish I had a picture of my little guy, but when I caught him on my fishing trip (too curious for his own good...I think he'd have been bird food) He has 2 big black spots on his belly, and from what I've read that could have been healed shell rot?
<It could be, or just physical damage>
...but since I've had him he hasn't eaten very much that I can see, but he adapted pretty well to captivity....
<Well, eating well is more or less the first sign OF adapting to captivity>
I've had a Red Eared Slider before and he was a great guy with lotsa spunk and I never had any issues with him - he was killed by a hit and run driver when my friends little girl was playing with him in the front yard.
<As always, a hard lesson learned -- reptiles are not the kind of pets to let children (or adults) "play with)
I've used salt to clean strays that were brought to me to rid them of leeches, and w/this guy I soaked him in a warm vinegar water to rid the white algae/fungus thing that he had going on with his little feet.
<Inventive and resourceful>
But recently I noticed his belly was looking a bit sunken in and now the carapace (trying to sound like I know turtle talk) part of his belly that separates his front and back legs on the right side has developed light brown striation (lines) and they are only on these 2 sections on one side...but there might be gaps developing in the belly side of his shell, or I can just have an overactive imagination....but I do know that the center of his belly is very soft and I feel that if I scraped at it I could dig right through. So, if there is anything other than sunlight (which I was able to start this weekend) like home remedy style - something to help him out...he seems OK but I do hope to find a way to feed him better and get him more interested in food...
<Sunlight, vitamins and food are needed here, and quickly. You've started on the sunlight, which is good. Now let's add warm baths (not HOT) to perhaps stimulate his appetite. If you can, visit a local pet store and get some night crawlers (a kind of worm) and a Calcium supplement such as Repti-Cal. Put a small sprinkle of the calcium on a newspaper and then roll a worm in it -- then offer it to him after a few minutes in the warm water. This may take a few attempts to get him started. It's possible that he's too emaciated to eat and a trip to the vet may be in order.>
and also I had my first turtle death and it was a shocker... My friends nephews and nieces "rescued" a very healthy seeming fellow, ate all my plants, very active. Well - I went outta town and yesterday for no reason I could find he was a stiff little fellow, no sign of foul play or disease, though my original fellow seems relieved that he is no longer a lounge chair for his tank mate.
<It could be that the "intimidation" of a tank mate could be part of he feeding problem, but turtles are fairly durable and resilient animals -- a "Sudden Death" of a seemingly active and healthy animal could be an indication of something very serious in the husbandry... or a disease/infection.>
So, please just let me know what you can
<If it's at all within your means, I'd suggest a trip to the vet. We have too many different things going on here to be sure of anything. But failing that, the most important thing to try to do is stimulate his appetite. He needs Calcium and Vitamin D, both of which we can supply more easily once he starts to eat.>
...I understand the temp./light but don't know the reasons for this problem.
<Here's a link for a few quick turtle keeping hints
http://www.xupstart.com/wwm/quickturtleguide/index.html>
Thanks for your time
<I hope it helps, Yolanda>
whew I'm long winded, huh?
<Not at all, we here at WWM like to have details because they help us to help you. Regards, Darrel>

Red Eared Slider with possible fungus – 06/14/07
I have gotten a 5 inch Red Eared Slider, and recently I've noticed some white spots on his skin and shell. I looked it up and found out about Fungus infections, but I've also read that he could be shedding, which is activated by Overheating or Overeating and is mistaken by a fungal infection. But I'm not sure this refers to the shell.
<White spots on the skin are typical of fungus as are small white spots under the scutes and tiny white lines around the edges of the scutes.>
Also, a lighter portion of his shell has appeared, which makes me think that he is indeed shedding.
<As the scute gets ready to shed, it takes on a milky white appearance, so this could indeed be a shedding of the scute.>
But I still suspect a fungal infection because of the white spots.
White or gray spots or patches on the skin would support that. In normal growth, Red Eared Sliders usually shed their skin in small sections that are barely noticeable. If you begin to see larger patches of dead, gray skin, that's a typical sign of fungus.>
Any suggestions?
<Sure. Air, sun and treatment. First, take him out of the water and allow him to stay dry except for a short bath and feeding (about 5 minutes every third day). Second, try to see that he gets as much natural, unfiltered sunlight as you can. Third, treat the skin condition. Start with athlete's foot remedies such as Tinactin, Lotrimin, etc. or the generic equivalent -- look for the ingredient Tolnaftate or Clotrimazole (or any antifungal ending in "azole"). Apply it once a day to the effected areas and as always, keep them clean and dry and you should see a change for the better after about 5 days and the fungus gone after 14 days. Keep treating for a minimum of 7 days after everything looks fine. For the shell spots, I would wait until the rest of the treatment is started -- if it is the normal shedding of as scute, then no treatment is needed. After everything looks better, please pay close attention to his water quality. Clean water helps prevent infections>
Thank You very much,
<You're welcome, Jay.>
Jay Smith
<Darrel>

Red Eared Slider with Sloughing Skin  6/12/07
Hello,
<Hiya Kevin, Darrel here>
I have a hatchling slider that has just gotten over a respiratory infection. This was treated by subQ injections by a local vet every other day for about three weeks. The slider developed a slight redness on one of it's front elbows/shoulders where some of the injections were administered. This turned into what looks like a smooth round blister.
<There are two possibilities that come to mind, Kevin. The most obvious is a skin infection at the injection site, in which case the turtle should be treated by the veterinarian. The second is simply that some antibiotics such as Baytril have a burning effect at the injection site that can lead to some blisters and scars.>
The vet gave me some creme to rub on it each day. But this does not seem to have helped. In fact the area where the normal skin appears to be missing has doubled in size. Is there anything that can be done to halt the normal skin loss and help the slider to regrow her skin?
<The only thing I would add to the home treatment is to keep him dry except for a short bath & feeding each day. Wet skin promotes the growth of fungus and bacteria and slows healing. Try that and see if it helps. But if it doesn't help, or if the turtle appears in any other way to be SICK, I suggest you have him seen by the veterinarian as soon as possible>
Thank you for your assistance,
<You're welcome!>
Kevin

Re: Red Eared Slider with Skin Problem – 6/12/07
Thank you Darrel.
<You're welcome Kevin>
Baytril was what the vet used. I couldn't think of the name. Do you expect that the skin will grow back over the blistered or scarred area? Do you think Repti Wound would be of any use in this case?
<Kevin, if the turtle is otherwise healthy and active and we're not looking at things getting worse ... just keep him dry (except for a short daily bath & feeding) for a week or so. You can swab the sore with Betadine (or any other similar disinfectant from the local drug store) and let's see how he does. If the wound doesn't look better or begins to look like an abscess, it's time to see the vet again.>
Thanks again,
Kevin
 

Red-Eared Slider shells  6/4/07 Hello, <Hi!> I have searched your forum but have not quite found the information I am looking for. <I'll give you some search tips later> I have inherited a couple of Red Eared Sliders and it has been about 2 months that I have cared for them. I have provided the appropriate environment for them and have changed their diet to include Reptomin and Reptical, plus occasional krill and shrimp. <Excellent work!> Their shells have gradually developed a white area between scutes, around the edges and white spots in places. The color change is gradually doing away with the green color of the shell. Their shell appears to be hard and I clean them with Q-tips periodically. There is no problem with feeding or swimming. Any help would be appreciated. <Sounds like what we call "Shell Rot." It could be a bacteria or a fungus and there are many different treatments we can try. First, keep them out of the water temporarily except to eat and then dry off the shells after they eat -- whatever is growing there grows better in a moist environment so we want them to be basically dry. Don't worry about the turtles, at their small size they can go for a week without even being in water and they'll do just fine. Put them IN to bathe and eat ... then take them OUT & dry them off and treat them.> <Now, we're fighting two different issues (1) What is it? (Bacteria or fungus) and (2) Where is it? (Topical and easy to get to or under the scutes and hard to reach)> <Topical Bacteria is the easiest - You can try cleaning their shells with Iodine (Betadine, Povodine or other brand or type) and letting the iodine soak in and dry. You can paint their entire shell with it if that's more convenient. Just try not to get it in their nose, mouth or eyes but even THEN if you do it's not lethal to them. You should see improvement in 3 to 4 days and gone within 10 to 14 days.> <Fungus is next. If the Iodine doesn't improve things then we'll move to an antifungal agent. Start with the athlete's foot creams at your local drug store. Tinactin, Lotrimin, etc. or the generic equivalent -- look for the ingredient Toflanate or Clotrimazole (or any antifungal ending in "azole"). Apply it once a day to the effected areas and as always, keep them clean and dry and you should see a change for the better after about 5 days and the creeping crud completely gone after about 20 days. Keep treating for a minimum of 7 days after everything looks fine.> <If either condition is underneath the shell enough that our treatments don't reach them, we have to fewer options. Some people claim that Fluconazole, a generic antifungal tablet available in aquarium stores, puts enough concentrated medication into the water to get into a n animal's system and kill the fungus from within. I've never experienced that, but other people say it has worked. My main complaint is that after buying ENOUGH of the tablets for the concentration and length of treatment, you may have paid for a trip to a veterinarian which is always our best, but sadly most expensive, option.> Thank you, <You're most welcome, Nathan!> Nathan P. <OK -- now some stuff about searching our site: Go to our HOME page and scroll all the way down and you'll see a Google Search Box on the left. Click the box labeled www.wetwebmedia.com -- that SHOULD be the default position for that button, I'll have to speak to someone about that. BOB?????) <Unfortunately not Darrel..