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FAQs About Red Ear Slider Turtle Behavior

Related Articles: The Care and Keeping of the Red Eared Slider, Trachemys scripta elegans by Darrel Barton, Red Ear Sliders, Turtles, AmphibiansRed Eared Slider CareShell Rot in Turtles,

Related FAQs: Sliders 1, Sliders 2, Red Eared Slider Identification, RES Compatibility, RES Selection, RES Systems, RES Feeding, RES Disease, RES Reproduction, Turtles in General: Turtles, Turtle Identification, Turtle Behavior, Turtle Compatibility, Turtle Selection, Turtle Systems, Turtle Feeding, Turtle Disease, Turtle Disease 2, Shell Rot, Turtle Reproduction, AmphibiansOther Reptiles

http://forums.kingsnake.com/forum.php?catid=32
http://www.turtletimes.com/Forums/default.asp

RES with weird behaviors, hlth. issues, reading  – 03/18/08
Hi WWM Crew,
<Doris>
This is my first time writing to a webpage with a question so I'm not quite sure if I'm doing it right or not. I have 4 RES. One RES is older by two years. About 45-50 days ago I purchased 3 baby RES. I've recently changed the 20 gallon tank to a 40 gallon tank, with a floating island and a basking light. When I came home I noticed that one of my turtles weren't moving in the water. I took him/her out to see if anything is wrong, it seems that the right eye isn't fully opened kind of like a lazy eye. I placed it on land and realized it stretched out its neck and opened its mouth like it's trying to take in oxygen. After taking oxygen the RES "lazy eye" opened like before. Is my RES not ready to be in such a big tank with that much water?
<Reads like it is having troubles... with both breathing and its eyes...>
Or could it be lack of oxygen? Is my RES sick?
<The latter>
I hope you have an answer to my questions. By the way this is a great site. Thanks for having this site for people who have questions like me.
Sincerely,
Doris.
<Please make use of it. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm
toward the bottom... on Turtle Diseases. Bob Fenner>

Weird behavior, RES      2/13/08
greetings...
<Hiya Viki -- Darrel here>
I have 2 young Red Eared Sliders about 2 ". Boris is perky but doesn't eat pellets...likes chicken and crickets...
<Would you eat what's good for you if you could eat snack food instead? Those foods as a staple diet will lead to malnutrition, starting with vitamin deficiency. If you can't get them on Reptomin or koi pellets (same food, just cheaper) then feed them night crawlers (earthworms). Start feeding the worms three times a week - to build up their diet .... then after a month, reduce to once a week while offering pellets the other two times. The idea is that once they're healthier we let them get hungry enough to finally accept the pellets.>
Natasha doesn't do much except some BIZARRE neck stretching and opening her mouth and making a sort of clicking noise. She doesn't eat, doesn't really swim
<If she does that frequently it is usually a sign of metabolic bone debilitation (probably brought on by the bad diet) but it can be easily and quickly treated. She needs vitamins and calcium and hopefully she'll get both in the worms and eventually the pellets if you can get her to eat. Raise the temperature of her environment a few degrees and see if that helps get her appetite back. Also, short (5 minute) soaks in 85 degree water can also help stimulate the appetite, Failing that, you'd need to see a veterinarian about vitamin and calcium injections>
I got a new light to intensify the basking scene...
<Basking & warmth is good, but are they getting UVA/UBV as well?>
any other suggestions?
<FIRST, WE SET TRAP FOR MOOSE AND SQUIRREL!
[psst! Did y'all know that Rocky (Rocket J Squirrel) was a girl squirrel?]>
She seems sort of , I dunno, handicapped.
<Not handicapped ... debilitated -- on her way to becoming ill. But hopefully we caught it in time and can get her back on track in a hurry>
thanks for your help.
<Yer welcome -- read this link for a quick refresher course>
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Re: weird behavior... Chelonian f's     2-14-08
Oy sad to say that Natasha expired this evening. very sad. it got to be that every time she stretched her neck tonight she would tip over.
oy oy oy.
OF course she was debilitated, she never ate from the moment she arrived here...We're working on Boris' diet. earthworms for breakfast. thanks for your time and help.
V
<Dear Viki,
On behalf of Bob Fenner and the entire crew we're truly sorry for your loss. Please keep us updated on Boris and don't hesitate to let us know if we can be of further help>
<Kind Regards, Darrel>

Re: weird behavior... Boris the chelonian    2/27/08
Hi Darrel...Boris is doing really well. He always seems hungry now - he eats pellets and earthworms greedily. How often do you think they should eat when they're this little?
<Less than we eat, Viki -- I feed mine every other day in the summer and every three to four days in winter. As long as WHAT they eat is healthy for them, then our next big problem is obesity. Believe it or not, more of our pets die of over feeding and the complications that brings than pass from insufficient diet. Glad everything is working out!>

Young Slider with shell color changes   2/13/08
Hi WWM,
<Hiya SB!>
Thanks for being here and having such a great site.
<Thank you, too. We like being here!>
I couldn't quite find what I was looking for with the search engine because I'm not too familiar with the terminology and the structure of turtle's shells. I have a very young Red Eared Slider turtle (slightly bigger than a 50 cent piece). I've been taking care of it since November and things have been going pretty good. I have a 20 gallon tank, a hang-on filter (I know they're not very good, but I can't afford a canister right now)
<Actually, hold up there. It's just fine for a tank that size, it's easier to clean than a canister and for that reason you'll do it more often -- if it's working for you, don't change it!>
A UVB/UVA bulb directly overhead, an ample basking area, and I feed the turtle a diet of ReptoMin pellets and occasionally a krill as a treat (maybe three times a week). I also completely clean out the tank every Friday unless I'm especially busy.
<Sounds good so far. Better than good. Great actually.>
Lately I've been noticing the colors of his shell changing. The area between the sections (I suppose they're called scutes?)
<They are called scutes and the area between the scutes are called margins ... but mainly called ..... The Area Between Scutes>
of the carapace has been becoming darker and darker, until now it's almost black. Although the turtle is still acting normally and very energetic (constantly tries to bite me during feeding), this has me very worried. What are the possible causes of this and what should I do?
<That's normal as the grow, SB. As he/she ages they bright green is replaced by a duller green and then a darker color that helps them blend in to their surroundings and the margins become dark & then black. SO ...... IN OTHER WORDS ... the cause for this is that your Slider is growing and thriving because you're being such a good care giver!!!>
Thanks in advance for your help.
<Once again, you do the work ..... and I take the thanks. I LOVE THIS JOB!!!!!!!! -- Darrel>

Strange fanning behaviour on red eared sliders 1-22-08
Hello,
I have read through your behaviour answers and have learned that the fanning of the front feet signify an attempt to attract the attention of a female.
<Correct. They also do it when they're mating. I had two terrapins of different species, and yet the male would "mount" the female (hardly the correct word, but you get the drift) and it would seem like he was scratching her eyes out.>
All good. However, I have to sliders, one is about 2" and one about 2.5" large (I can't tell if they are male or female because they are too small still.) They are the same age. The larger one is swimming up to the smaller one and starts fanning the front arms then the smaller ones sits and does it back. Are my turtles just confused or is it also an aggressive show of dominance? Is there something I should be worried about here?
<Quite normal, and nothing to worry about. It may be pre-mating display, or a dominance display, or merely some sort of reptilian chit-chat. Provided the terrapins don't start biting each other, they're fine.>
Thank you very much
Suzy
<Cheers, Neale.>

Red Eared Slider Question, shell colour    1/1/08
Hi,
I have had an unusual occurrence with one of my red eared sliders. We have raised them from hatchlings and they are currently in a 30 gallon tank (they are three). They have uv light, heat lamps and a basking area. The water and filter are changed regularly. They both seem healthy and energetic, but the larger one's scales have taken on a reddish tint. This is both on the top of his shell and the bottom. His skin appears normal in color, and their are no soft spots or fungus growth. Any idea what we might be dealing with?
Thanks so much!
Lori
<Hmm... difficult to say without seeing them, but do bear in mind that old scales (or scutes, to be more precise) at the top of the shell eventually flake off the shell. Before that happens they tend to become semi-transparent and more horny-looking rather than the green/brown they normally are. In addition, as the Sliders grow, their overall colour becomes less bright green and more green/brown. Provided your Slider is otherwise healthy and shows no sign of infection, then I'd not be too alarmed just yet. Cheers, Neale.>

Is an over-active Slider too hot? – 11/16/07
Hey Crew!
<Hiya Jamie!>
I read through your Faq's and I really enjoyed the site. Thank you for the great info!
Well onto my questions...
My first question is about my female RES that I bought about 6 months ago, she's been very healthy and always active and friendly. We keep her in long 20 gallon tank, with a heater/filter, heat kept around 78 degrees, basking platform that she can easy climb on, and a UVA/UVB lamp. She's about 4 inches now, maybe slightly bigger.
1) First problem encountered with her was that she refuses to eat any kind of pellets, we tried 3 different kinds and even soaked tem in tuna to entice her. She dislikes them so much, she even acts like they aren't there. After many tries, we finally decided to try to keep a balanced diet (as best as we can) with veggies and extra stuff (usually feeder fish, crickets, krill..etc.) Any suggestions on how to keep a good stable diet?
<The first problem is that the water is too hot. Water temp should be around 65-73 and the dry land/basking temp between 85-93 -- She needs to have a choice as to be warm & dry or wet & cool and so far you've taken that choice away from her. -- I'll address the feeding concerns a little later on>
2) For some reason lately she has become extremely active and loves to climb onto her basking platform and then attempts to climb out of her tank, sometimes getting too close for comfort. She even ends up back flipping into the water and one time got stuck. Any explanation as to why she is doing this and how we can prevent it?
<My guess is that she's active because she's a bit over heated and her behavior will change when you provide her the proper temperature gradients. Also, you'll find that the water stays a bit cleaner and clearer at the lower temperatures>
<Now, as far as diet and diet fixations go ... Sliders are not usually very picky. If she's otherwise healthy and after about 3 months of correcting her temperature situation ... you can just stop offering her any other kind of foods .... and offer the Koi pellets once a week, scooping them out if she hasn't eaten in 15 minutes, and after about three weeks, she'll wake up & smell the writing on the wall (to mix metaphors) and start eating the pellets. If she's otherwise healthy, 3-6 weeks in nothing to HER ... but you'll be beside yourself with needless worry. Just for comparison, I've had a box turtle so fixated on strawberries that she refused any and all other food. When I finally started offering her a proper diet or nothing at all ... she went for TWO YEARS and three months!!!! It was a real test of wills with an animal that will likely outlive me.>
<Start by correcting her environmental issues and read the link below -- check all your husbandry against the guidelines and then ... when it's all perfect. Just out-wait her ... and she'll come along.>
Thank you again, and I hope to hear from you soon.
-Jamie in Chico, Cali.
<Nice town, Jamie -- my son went to college there! -- Darrel>
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >

Hatchling Slider with odd behavior 10/21/07
I wrote you recently about a hatchling Red Eared Slider that was exhibiting some strange behavior; spinning in circles as it swims, flipping on it's back and stretching it's neck up and back over it's shell. It has a great appetite, basks regularly and spends equal time in the water. I keep the water temp around 80 deg. and the air temp in the aquarium basking area at 90. The turtle cannot swim below the surface. It spins in circles as it swims because it is trying to get to the bottom and cannot. When it wants to go to the bottom it clings to objects in the aquarium and descends them holding on with its claws. The flipping on it's back is also a result of it's struggle to get to and explore the bottom. I have even held the turtle to the bottom for a sec. or two and then let go and it quickly rises to the top like a fishing bobber submerged and then released. The Slider's' appearance is healthy and maintains a good appetite. It is fed a balanced diet 3 times a week. Could the turtle have underdeveloped lungs, one working lung, or some sort of equilibrium imbalance?
<Those are all possibilities, Lorie. In addition to those sometimes a pocket of gas can be generated from an internal infection and I've actually seen turtles act this way temporarily because they simply had ... gas!>
<At the moment, your best course of action and treatment is to pay SCRUPULOUS attention to detail regarding habitat, water quality and hygiene. Read and re-read the article here: (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm) and compare your keeping to the suggestions. First off, I'd lower the water temp to something around 72 degrees (That's around 22.5 for those of you living in the developed world) and give him a wider "choice" for his thermoregulation pleasure. Next I'd make sure that he's getting unfiltered UV lighting when he is basking.>
It seems to have poor judgment skills; when it eats, it attacks the food but often misjudges and misses them. <One of the endearing traits of turtles is their often comical behavior -- but let's stay away from terms like "Poor Judgment" unless you catch him ordering products from late night TV infomercials or sending money to a Nigerian lawyer.>
I'm searching for answers about its condition have been unsuccessful.
<It's difficult TO answer because what you're describing is a consequence of some condition -- much like seeing someone with a limp and trying to guess how he got it>
I wonder if it is a permanent condition, or will it grow out of it.....or worse, die?
<Once again, yes -- it could be any of those things. GENERALLY speaking ... if an animal is thriving, which is to say "active, alert, feeding and growing" then they will either grow out of or learn to compensate for any handicaps they may have. Once in a while an animal can exhibit every trait of thriving and compensating and then one day, suddenly and unexpectedly, succumb to a condition or disease that they've been carrying almost since birth. Technically, a trip to an experienced Herp Veterinarian and the resulting $698.20 medical bill would yield a guess from an expert ... but still only a guess ... with the likely result being that you're told to pay attention to habitat, water quality and hygiene until a more clear-up symptom appeared. When the responsible pet keeper does his or her part in providing a superior habitat, Red Eared Sliders can be amazingly hardy.>
<regards -- Darrel>

Odd behavior, RES  – 9/29/07
To Anyone Who Can Answer:
<Whew! As long as you didn't clarify that to an HELPFUL answer, I'm IN!>
I have two male red-eared sliders who have been together since they were just babies. They are about three years old. Both are healthy and in a clean environment. One is a bit smaller then the other, but not by much. They have a set of bricks to lay on and I have a basking light on all night and also a UV lamp on all day. The rest of the environment ( an old toy box cut down) is water.
<Sounds good so far>
There is plenty of room for both to swim and to bask. I have observed the flipping of the claws that the males do for some time. It never amounts to much and they have never bitten each other. They do tend to follow each other around the tank at times and seem aggressive, but nothing much has ever come of it.
<So far all is normal>
Just recently on several occasions we have found the two stuck together. The smaller one has his head and part of his shell caught in-between the larger ones top and bottom shell. His head is completely out of sight. We thought at first the smaller one was biting the larger one, but they seem actually stuck. We have pulled them apart several times, but last night I heard a splashing and a lot of noise coming from their tank and went to investigate. I found them stuck once again. I placed them both on the bricks and was trying to remove the rack that the light sits on so I could pull them apart when they somehow got themselves unstuck.
<Sounds a bit comical, doesn't it?>
There was a loud like suction noise when they parted.
<Complete with sound effects!>
I am afraid that the smaller one will drown if he can not get unstuck from the larger one while they are in the water. I think the brick gave them traction to get apart from one another. They can't get on the bricks while they are stuck together and they don't seem to be able to get unstuck in the water. Have you ever heard of something like this and do you think the little one can unstick himself if he wants too, or is he really stuck and likely to drown?
<I've never honestly witnessed to turtles STUCK like that. I've seen positions and behaviors that are similar, but never exactly THAT -- and it's not covered in the literature, either. My guess is that little Bobby can get himself out of any place he gets himself into, but I wouldn't take that chance, either.>
I hate the thought of separating them as they really have never gotten that aggressive with each other and finding space for another set up would be a real headache, not to mention a big expense. What should I do?
< I'd separate them. As much as turtles seem to "enjoy" being together, they do fine individually as well. I wouldn't look to a whole new setup, just possibly rearranging the existing enclosure so that you could put a clear plastic divider between the two running right down the center of the basking brick. A few months apart and you could reintroduce them again and expect to find their behaviors have changed, hopefully including this "edge play" (everyone get it??? Edge play? As in the EDGES of the shell??? Bwahahahaha). Like I said, I doubt this is a serious problem for THEM, but I agree it's a serious worry for US, so let's make the effort.>
Thanks, Laura
<Welcome, Darrel>
<<Great... RMF>>

Red Eared Slider help  7/21/07
Hello guys,
<Hiya Christopher -- Darrel here with you tonight>
I wanted to know how to take care of an Red Eared Slider in the winter. For example, how much should I feed him, how often should I change the water and should I still give it sunlight or UVB lighting.
<These are very good questions, but the answers are a bit muddy & not very concrete.>
<Let's keep it simple. Sliders will respond to the TEMPERATURE CHANGES of winter much more strongly than the subtleties of altered photoperiods (shorter days) and all that science-type stuff. So as long as the Temperature holds, it's not really "winter" as far as the turtle is concerned. If your turtle is inside the house in an aquarium and there is a normal basking light (there should not be a water heater) then for your turtle, it's just another day in the swamp ... No winter to speak of. If it's outside, in a pond .... it's way too small to BE in a pond ... so set up a tank indoors like I described above and -- presto -- no winter. Now ... if it gets a LITTLE bit chilly where you have her, then cut back the feeding just to be sure. It never hurts for them to be just a little bit hungry.>
My turtle is 2 inches and is a female.
<A bit of a disagreement here, Chris. If it's only two inches and assuming you haven't probed it, she's too small to determine the sex yet. Notice I didn't say too "young" because for turtles, like most reptiles, sexual maturity (and with that the visual differences between the boys & girls) comes with SIZE, not age.>
Also, do you know the average growth rate of an RES. Just the approximate average.
<That is SO totally dependant of heat, food and environment that anything I say could be wrong (and at the same time right for someone else) -- 3/4 to an inch each year for the first year to year & a half and then slower after that .... but if it's warm enough and she's fed enough, it could almost be double that>
Last, do turtles in fact hibernate or not?
<Sliders do, depending on where they are. In some Northern states wild sliders have been known to over-winter at the bottom of a pond that's frozen solid at the top. Now ... to anyone reading this who has sliders that can be subject to winter conditions ... PLEASE keep in mind that while they do hibernate and CAN survive a cold winter .... MANY wild turtles do not survive. Some perish outright and many are so damaged that they barely survive the next year. Mother Nature sees that 1,000 hatch so that ONE can live to lay another set of eggs. The odds do NOT favor a turtle wild ... so please don't try it -- as responsible pet keepers it's our job to improve Nature's odds, not duplicate them.>
Thanks for all your help.
<No charge!>

Turtle's basking habits– 09/17/07
Hey,
<Hiya>
I have a question about my Red Eared Slider. I have a female and doesn't really bask a lot.
<Some will bask less than others, but it's good and healthy for her to bask and there's always a concern that it's a sign of sickness or distress. Check your water temperature and make sure it's not too warm (room temperature is fine) since the primary reason for basking is to warm her body. If the basking area is available and warm -- and she's otherwise healthy and active and it seems that it's just her CHOICE not to bask, then don't worry about it.>
Also, she will only eat pellet foods. I have tried feeding it insects, vegetables and fruits but it will only eat the pellet foods I give her. Is this normal for an slider?
<Again, not really normal - They're omnivorous and usually will eat or at least sample anything and everything offered. But with that said, a quality brand pellet food, especially commercially available Koi pellets are a perfectly balanced diet for a slider and there's not really any reason to feed them anything else.>
Any additional information would be helpful.
<then here ya go: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
Thanks,
A concerned owner.
<Your welcome -- Darrel>


Re: Turtle's Basking Habits– 09/17/07
Thanks again for your reply. So just to clarify everything, if I feed my RES koi pellets I don't need to feed it anything else or is it best to give her different types of food along with the koi pellets. Thanks again.
<No, koi pellets alone aren't enough. You need to feed red-eared sliders a mix of foods; it is generally recommended that adults receive about 75% of their diet from plant foods. Clover, alfalfa, dandelion leaves, green lettuce (not iceberg!), Sushi Nori, ripe tomatoes, plums, etc. all work well. They will also happily eat cheap aquatic plants such as Elodea, often sold as "oxygenators" for ponds and goldfish aquaria. Cheers, Neale.>

Can a turtle outgrow it's shell? 9/13/07
Hello again
<And a hearty hello, howdy & Hiya right back!>
So we've both established my Red Eared Slider turtle is growing too fast. :( I'm trying to only feed 2 times a week now, adding more leafy veggies and less pellets/dried prawns/bloodworms. Does that sound ok?
<The ONLY thing I feed mine are Koi pellets ... it's a vegetarian-based healthy & balanced food>
I'm now wondering if Its possible for a Slider to outgrow it's shell?
I keep reading conflicting information online.
<Funny how the Internet has allowed any dufus with a web site the ability to give advice, isn't it? Um .. wait a second .... that doesn't sound right .... forget I said that, OK?>
His front legs and neck seem to be puffing out of his shell, and he never fully retracts his legs or neck anymore. Perhaps this is because he is comfortable with me and feels no need to protect himself???
<From the sound of it, he probably is relaxing a bit but fundamentally he sounds obese! Keep on the diet and remember, they have VERY little to worry about or run from in captivity -- they don't need very much to eat.>
If he is too big now, will his shell ever catch up to the body, even with more restricted/varied diet ....
<In time, yes. The shell grows through a much slower process than the skin and other organs ... it will take a LOT of time ... so please be patient>
... and more exercise? ...
<I want to make a point about this ... EVERY YEAR ... hundreds if not thousands of people buy tiny little TurtleGym 1000's for their sliders based on infomercials from Chuck Tortoise and ALL of them end up folded up & shoved under a little corner of their hot rock gathering dust.>
<Ahem. OK .. I'm having one of those days. Or perhaps an "episode"><<Darrel you're really out/in there today! RMF>>
<Pay attention to habitat, diet and temperature gradients and try not to over-stress yourself or your little turtle.>
Thanks for all your help!
<Write back & send pics of him!>
<Regards, Darrel>
PS: Here's a link about the simple yet effective care for Sliders -- it was written by a charming man who is outstanding in his field.>
<out ...>
<Standing is his field!>
<rimshot!>
<
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Red Eared Slider Question, beh.   8/13/07
I have been successfully raising our female turtle Barney for 5 years, from pond to tank and now have a new baby named Ruby, but got stumped by a question from my grandson: How long can Red Eared Sliders stay under the water without coming up for air? I have been searching the web for an hour and have come up with zip. Can you help?
<Yes we can. A healthy Slider can stay underwater longer than you've been searching for that answer! In any case, 15-20 minutes. I've seen active sliders submerge and sit on the bottom for an hour before surfacing, but my adult sliders are submerged all night while they sleep. It all depends on their temperature, metabolism and amount of activity.>
Thanks,
Jane
<welcome, Darrel>

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question – 07/26/07
Hi Neale,
<Hello Ryan,>
I will get a picture tomorrow night of their shell and, hopefully, the Growth Rings.
<Cool.>
I have noticed one new thing with my Babies. They seem to be eating a lot! they never ate this much before. one would wait for you to leave the room before it ate. Now it comes out and eats like there is no tomorrow.
<Normal. These are greedy animals. But the problem is likely a lack of fibre in the diet. If "filled" with green foods containing lots of fibre, they feel satiated more quickly. Just like humans really: we might crave fatty and sugary foods but neither "fills us up". Besides, green foods are where some of the essential vitamins are, like vitamins B and C, so take advantage of their seemingly endless hunger to give them some greens.>
Is it possible to feed them too much?
<Not really, but water quality obviously suffers.>
All I have been feeding them lately is their baby floating pellets but if You put 20 or 30 in the tank between the 2 of them they are gone in a matter of minutes! Is this too much?
<If they eat them, then its fine. But I'd only use pellets only once or twice a week; go raid the kitchen for green and invertebrate foods for the rest of their diet. Blanched lettuce, tinned or frozen peas, courgette, soft fruit like melon (with the rinds) and so on. Really, just try anything not obviously risky (chili peppers and onions would perhaps be unwise!). Once these reptiles become adults, their diet needs to be nearly 100% vegetarian if you want them to have good health. In terms of meaty foods, once or twice a week offer frozen prawns, mussels, and other bits of seafood. Don't use meat from warm blooded animals: the fats congeal in cold blooded animals, causing problems.>
I heard it is possible for them to grow too fast for their shell.
<Garbage. When these terrapins show things like shell deformities, they are either genetic or down to poor care, specifically a lack of UV light and not enough of the right vitamins and minerals (especially calcium).>
Thanks Again!,
Ryan
<Cheers, Neale>


Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question  7/28/07
Hi Neale, I got those pictures of the turtles shells, Notice the brown in between the plates that was never like that it was either black or green. Any feedback on this is appreciated. I'm going to pick them up some Peas and lettuce tomorrow, are blood worms good for them? I have been throwing them in there too. Thanks again for all your helpful information! Thanks Again, Ryan
<Hello Ryan. I'm afraid those photos are too small/blurry to really pick out anything useful. If you can try again, zooming in on the brown stuff that would help. At first glance, the image with the terrapin over the red/black gravel looks as if it has been painted! The brown stuff seems to be metallic, like gold paint. This isn't a silly idea on my part: it used to be quite common to see terrapins and tortoises sold with simple paintings and patterns on their shells. Anyway, since you said this brown stuff has recently appeared, it can't be paint. So what I'm interested in is whether the stuff is smooth or textured. Fungal infections can happen on terrapin shells, and is revealed by a furry or fluffy texture. Since the shell grows from the insides outwards, the each "plate" on the shell is a stack of modified keratin scales, with the oldest ones at the top. If your turtle is suffering from [a] malnutrition or [b] lack of UVB light then the scales lower down the stack will be deformed. So it would be interesting to see if the brown stuff is actually a sign of deformed scales. It is extremely common for these terrapins to be kept without sufficient UVB light, or with the light but no space for them to bask underneath it. So remind me again what lighting system you are using. It's also worth mentioning that as the terrapins grow they lose their green colour and turn a muddy greeny brown. The bright green plates at the top of each stack eventually fall off, and you're left with a terrapin much less brightly coloured than it was on purchase. Cheers, Neale>

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question  7/29/07
Hi Neale, It is a 75 Watt Halogen UVA Light, do I also need a UVB light or maybe? The discoloration in the shell feels just like a shell and it is metallic. Here are some better pictures for You, also are the blood worms good for the turtles? Thanks Again, Ryan
<Hello Ryan, The terrapins in your pictures look fine to me. The dark bands between the green scutes are the new, duller, scutes underneath them. As we discussed earlier, these terrapins change colour as they mature. I think that's what you're seeing here. There are no obvious signs of malnutrition or disease as far as I can tell. Now, I'm not sure why you have a UVA light. To synthesize the vitamins they need, these reptiles must have access to UVB lighting. So if you can, swap the bulbs in the fixture, or else add a UVB light to the system over their basking spot. Bloodworms are a fine treat for your terrapins, but don't get them hooked on them -- remember, a healthy slider is a (largely) vegetarian slider. Just like people, these beasties may prefer the "meat" even though its the "vegetables" are actually good for them! Take a read of this: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm . Hope this helps, Neale>

Red Eared Pond Sliders Male Attacking Female   7/25/07
Dear Crew,
<Hiya! Darrel here>
We have had the male for 5 years and the Female for 3 years. The male had been abused by his previous owner who allowed his dog to use him as a play toy, he was completely white when we got him and he is healthy now. The problem is that when we put him in with the female outside he attacks her. He has almost completely removed her tail, today I had to physically separate them. If we put them in the bath tub together he doesn't do this, it is only when they are in the pond outside. Can you please help us they are wonderful pets and we would hate to have to part with one of them but I am very scared that he is going to do a lot more damage or maybe even kill her.
<That's a real possibility, Tammi. It sounds like you have a naturally aggressive animal there.>
<When you take them out of their natural element and place them somewhere new, their natural instincts for survival (combined with stress) override their natural aggressive and territorial instincts. In the wild she'd have virtually unlimited space to simply get away from him, so if your pond isn't big enough for her to get away and stay away, you can either fence them off from each other or find another home for him.>
Thanks Putzakitty
<I've been called MANY things, Tammi, but never Putzakitty. I'll have to think about if I like it.>
Tammi

Red Ear Slider Turtle Question, beh.   7/22/07
Hello There,
<Ave.>
I have 2 Red Ear Slider babies Barbosa and Moe, One of them is about 1 inch and a half (Barbosa) the other is right around 1 inch (Moe). The bigger one does not seem to have a problem with people around the smaller one though will hide behind the filter while You are in the room with it. The bigger one will occasionally swim behind there as if to scope it out but little Moe looks like He is gonna swim through the glass. Usually when You walk in the room they will both be on the rock sunning underneath the UVA Lamp, they will take off into the water and hide which I can understand.
<Completely normal. In the wild, baby terrapins are food for just about everything, from bullfrogs to alligators. This is typical for the Chelonia generally, which are pretty well predator-proof as adults, but their infant mortality (for want of a better description) is staggeringly high.>
But Barbosa will come swim around while Your around, Moe will come out maybe 8 inches from the filter max and swim back like He is doing laps. I hate to say but the skittish one was dropped from probably 3 feet onto concrete and My Girlfriend and I are thinking this could be the cause of his fears of us.
<Possible. Animals do learn because they have to. If they didn't, they'd never avoid danger.>
He does seem to be ok it happened 5 days ago, He swims fine and does eat. Moe will not eat with people around but the bigger one Barbosa does not have a problem eating in front of You. Is it just a personality difference?
<Likely, yes. Give it time. Train the animal to associate you with good things, like (small) tasty treats. Habituation is also important. Animals love routines. Ever noticed why sheep and cows walk away from a stranger but ignore the thundering noise of high speed trains zipping past their fields? Anything that happens regularly without causing danger is eventually accepted as "part of the background" and stops being scary. What animals don't like is novelty. So if you can locate the vivarium close by where you spend significant amounts of time, you'll see a big difference in their behaviour. I have a Panaque catfish in a tank next to my workspace. Panaque are generally described as nocturnal and very shy. But mine swims about all day at the front of the tank. It does this because it is used to me being in the same place day in, day out at the same time doing the same things. As far as the catfish is concerned, I'm just scenery. So, see if you can put the terrapins by the table where you eat or the sofa where you watch TV or whatever. Someplace they can habituate to you.>
They seem to get along fine always sticking close.
<They're sociable animals when young. The more the merrier.>
I vary there diet I have the baby floating pellets I give them also give them Blood Worms, Yet to get some freeze dried crickets also gonna throw some lettuce in there to mix it up.
<Sounds good. Remember the key thing to keeping red-ears: the older they get, the more plant food they should be eating. Adults are more or less herbivorous in the wild except for the occasional day they luck out at find a dead fish or some insect larvae. There are some good articles here at WWM about red-ear diet.>
Can You also give Me some feedback on the setup we have? We have a 35 gallon tank for the guys or gals about 1/4 to a 1/3 full, a 75 watt Halogen UVA Lamp the water is filtered with a Ph around 7 or 8. Water Temp is about 72-76 Degrees the basking area is 82 to 90 degrees.
<Given their size now, everything sounds fine. Obviously they'll need a bigger tank once they mature, something around the 55 gallon size upwards. I found siliconing glass plates close to the surface to create steps leading to flat basking area worked better than building piles or rocks at one end because you kept more swimming room. So do a little research on what their adult quarters should look like, because there's a bit of art involves. The other thing is the heater. When I kept terrapins I learned the hard way adult terrapins and glass heaters do not mix. They smash them. So invest in some undertank heating if you can, or at least a heater with a plastic guard or better yet a filter with a built-in heater.>
They will be separated eventually when the time comes.
<Mine never needed separating. Males might squabble, but since they're easy to sex (longer claws on the male) it's easy enough to pre-empt this once they reach maturity.>
Thank You for all the helpful information Your website has, also any feedback is greatly appreciated!
Thank You!,
Ryan

Re: Red Ear Slider Turtle Question, beh.   7/26/07
Hello Again,
<Hello Ryan,>
I had Emailed before regarding My 2 Red Ear Slider Babies, Your information was very helpful and I have another question. Both Turtles seem to have brown in the lines in-between there Shell Plates where is was once black or green. Is this a sign of growth? I find it for both turtles to have it at the same time kind of odd.
Thanks Again,
Ryan
<Hmm, not precisely sure what you mean, but all turtles develop obvious "growth rings" on the shell plates as they grow. That's probably what you're seeing. If you want to send a photo, we can double-check. Cheers, Neale.>

Turtle shell... shedding?  – 6/19/07
Dear Crew
<Hi. Darrel here>
I have a baby turtle.
<Just guessing a Red Eared Slider?>
A tiny part of its shell looks like it shed a little bit.
There's just a tiny light brown spot now... is this from the turtle growing... its shell expanding?
<As the shell grows, the outside edges of the individual scales (they're called scutes) can turn a dirty sort of brownish/translucent -- like a dirty fingernail. Is that what you mean?>
It's just a total guess...I'm just curious.
<It's hard for me to visualize what you're describing without more detail. I'd be pleased if you write back with a more detailed description of what you're seeing. Also ... is his shell hard? Is he eating and active?>
Thank you.
<You're welcome>
<Good Night, Irene>

Turtle growth – 06/13/07
How you guys doing over there?
<We guys and girls are doing just fine over here, David, thanks for asking>
As for me and my Read Eared Sliders, we are doing great! I was wondering does it depend on how often I feed them, that's why my turtles shed or is it that they grow that fast?
<What you feed them, how much you feed them and their normal temperature are all conditions that affect growth, David. When they shed a semi-transparent shell-like scute, that's a sign of normal growth as long as the shell underneath looks healthy and normal>
My Turtles are about 3 inch from head to tail. The turtle shell is about 2 and a quarter inch. Is this a normal size for them going on about 3-4 months?
<That's actually pretty large for that age, David, I'd bet they are a bit older than you thought - maybe even a year or even a year and a half old -- but they sound healthy, so you're being a good Turtle Dad. Just remember that over feeding makes health problems for them, so when in doubt, just feed less>
Thank You,
David
<You're welcome - Darrel>

Emergency! Turtle lost in pond     6/5/07
Hello,
<Hi>
I purchased 2 red-ear slider turtles, Their shell was about 6 inches. We put them in our pond in backyard. They seemed to be fine for the first week. They looked healthy and would bask on the rocks. Then after a week one was missing. I searched my yard and couldn't find him. Then one late afternoon I saw the turtle floating in the water. He was dead. Now the other turtle is missing too. My question is, could he be trying to hibernate too early.
<I'm very sorry for your loss :( I doubt he's trying to hibernate, but it is most likely too cold for him at this stage.>
I live in Long island, New York and the weather at night had been about 54 degrees for 3 nights. Before this disappearance, I noticed he wasn't going in the water. He was always on the rock. I don't think he got loose. After doing research, I'm beginning to think my pond was too cold for him.
<I agree, Sliders don't normally live that far north but they can survive winters cold enough that the water freezes -- but there are two important things: 1) Their instinct to hibernate comes on slowly with the season changes and they have MONTHS of preparation in putting on fat stores, they stop eating so that there's no undigested food in their stomach, etc. all in preparation for winter -- this is quite different than an animal that's been in pet store conditions and suddenly put into an outdoor situation. 2) And this one is important for any future turtles you have .. not all Sliders survive their winter hibernation.>
Maybe he thought it was hibernation time? The temperature in pond was about 68- 70 degrees most of the time.
<There could be many reasons, Annie. The lower temperatures would cause his metabolism to slow down and slow or even stop his digestion. If he had food in his stomach it can start to rot and become toxic to him. He could have been sick right from the store. Is the pond 100% safe as far as them getting caught in filters, pumps or under rocks until they suffocate? What about wild animals like skunks or raccoons that got a hold of your little guy?>
Please respond soon- My pond is dark in water color so I can't see if he's in there. If he is in hibernation would it be alright to wake him? Or is he going to die, like I think the other one did.
<My suggestion is that you do whatever you can to find him, drag the bottom of the pond with a net, search at night with flashlights and look for the outline of his shell ... whatever you can ... and then bring him indoors where it's easier to control with environment and easier to observe him. Here is a link of quick care instructions:
http://www.xupstart.com/wwm/quickturtleguide/index.html
this document is just a start but it will get you and your turtle going.>
I feel so bad cause we should of did the research first. Today is second day, that I haven't seen him.
<Our best wishes are with you and your Turtle, Annie>
Thank you for any help soon.
-Annie

Reservations about a Slider's travel?   5/23/07
I have searched your Q & A section and have not seen this question.  We built two small ponds last July and just recently noticed a very large RES has taken up residence in them.  She is about 11" to 12" long.
<wow, how neat is that??  And that is a respectable size for a slider, too.>
Our ponds are rubber lined, each about 400 gallons.  She is living among our small Koi quite nicely even though she does, seem to like nibbling on some of our plants.
<Turtles with koi can be O.K. especially if the turtle is well fed. With time she should be happy to feed on the same koi food as the fish get unless she's already performing a service for you by eating worms and snails.  And even in the best case their ability to chase a fish is limited and they're almost comical to watch.  But with that said, wild things are wild things and a turtle taking a nip out of a sick or weakened fish isn't unheard of.>
My question is how far do these turtles normally travel?  We can't figure out how she traveled so far.  The nearest large pond is 1/3 of a mile from our house through, wood fences, baseball fields and streets.
<they can travel great distances in search of a perfect pond and as often as I've seen it, I've never learned what makes one pond better than another.  But, is it possible that someone saw your beautiful ponds and decided to make a late night contribution?>
She is fun to watch sunning on the rocks. It seems she travels from one pond to the other during the night, they are about 10' from each other.  If she causes to much damage to our plants we will have to relocate her.  Do you think she will return if we have to move her?
<probably not.  They explore a lot but rarely show a homing instinct so if you relocate her and she decided to leave that place, she'll as likely as not move off in a new direction.  But please .. if you DO decide to relocate her,  please take the time to make sure that the new location is suitable.>
Thanks, Lisa
<you are MOST welcome!>

My red ear sliders are shedding   5/20/07
I read somewhere if I over feed them that can lead to skin and shell shedding is that true?
<Not exactly,  David.  Shell shedding is what naturally happens as the turtle grows, but over feeding leads to obesity just like with people and with that comes looking fat & pudgy and a whole host of internal health problems.>
I notice that they can consume a good 10 pellets, this is for two turtles. What is considered overfeeding them?
<David, this is a really good question.  Over feeding & Over eating are the among the top health problems in captive reptiles.  Without having exact size and weight on each animal we can't say that any arbitrary number of pellets is good or bad.  The rule of thumb I use is  "all they can eat in five minutes,  three times a week."   A rule of good health for turtles and people is "leave them a little hungry."  In the summer when it's hot, every other day.>
.. Because what ever I throw in the tank whether its lettuce, pellets, treats and even slice cooked meat they will eat it.
<yes, but lettuce and cooked meats aren't healthy for them.   Many people feel that lettuce is exactly like candy to humans -- very good tasting but no nutrition at all.  My advice is to stick to the koi pellets and limit the amount they eat.>

Re: Red Eared Sliders shedding?   5/23/07
My Read Eared Sliders  are still shedding I was wondering how long it takes them to fully shed it all off cause that stuff looks nasty just hanging from their neck
<David, Sliders don't shed very much skin and it usually comes off in very small pieces that are hardly noticeable.  If what you're seeing is a gray mucky-looking stuff that hangs on for a long time, that may be dead skin mixed with a bit of fungus.   Make sure they're getting enough natural sunlight (not filtered through any glass, clean water and a good diet.  If it lingers for another week I'd mix a tablespoon of salt into an inch of water in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket and place them in it, one at a time, for 15 minutes.>

Re: Red-Ear Slider Follow-up   5/23/07
Hello!
<Howdy!>
Thank you so much!  
The Tetra feeding sticks worked beautifully!  
<See?  You caught me on a good day.>
Should I feed them once or twice daily?  
<once daily -- actually about 6 times per week,.  Remember, they have very little to do except relax and eat, so they don't need a whole lot of food.  Overfeeding is a health problem for them>
Also you said to watch for bubbles around their nose, do you mean to make sure they are breathing or something else
<It's a sign of respiratory problems and a fairly easy one to spot.  Just something to look for -- not worry about>
Thank you again
Samantha
<Back atcha>

Shedding Turtle Gets Brighter Colored Shell  – 5/5/07
I just got a RES about a month ago I am sure he is an adult b/c of his size about 4 1/2-5 in.
<If he is a male then this would be getting close. A female can get up to 12 inches.>
Well he eats every 2 days. I read you were only suppose to feed adults every few days.
< Too much food that is high in protein will create a very thick hard shell that is difficult for a turtle to expand as it grows.>
He also gets out of the water and basks during the day.
<This is what he is suppose to do to remain healthy.>
When I am not home and at night while I sleep I think he is shy :)
< As time goes on he will learn to recognize you and not be so skittish.>
Anyhow, I would like to know if there shell changing color is normal? He is shedding as well his shell around the edge and some places on the top are turning lite green
yellowish is this normal? Amanda  
<When turtles shed the scutes on their shell, the old faded  scute is pretty dull and colorless. The new scute that is revealed is usually a brighter color. Over time this will get dull until he sheds again.-Chuck>

Shedding Red Eared Slider  – 04/29/07
Hey, I have a question about my red eared slider.
He seems to be constantly shedding his skin and am not sure if its because he's constantly growing or if he's sick he has a place to get out of the water and warm himself and get dry and he does if you have any advice it would be greatly appreciated. Thank You
< Young turtles grow rapidly under good conditions and shed often. As turtles age their diet changes from a meaty diet to one with more vegetable matter. This slows down the growth rate a little bit but allows the shell to develop normally. Your turtle may be getting too much protein, so vary the diet with some vegetable matter.-Chuck>

Turtle Age   4/23/07
Hey there.   A coworker found a RES at work. I think it is a male turtle.  We are curious as to how old he is. His shell measures about 4" in length.  Also, his back legs seem to be shedding or peeling.  Is this normal, or could he have some type of skin condition? Thanks for a response.  Pam
< RES's are normally found wild in many parts of the country. Assuming that the turtle you found is wild and is a male it could be from three to five years old. Turtles in the north grow slower than turtles in the south because the have a shorter warm season to eat and grow.-Chuck>

Smallest Turtle In The Group With Problems  4/10/07
Hello. I have three RES turtles. I'm not sure of their ages, but I have had them for about two years now. I would guess that they are about five years old. Two of them love to bask. They bask all day long, only leaving their rock at meal times and when the basking lamp is off. The other RES hardly ever basks. It will lay its head up on the rock and sleep sometimes, but I rarely see it actually fully out of the water. The other two seem to neglect it. They aren't mean to it; however, the other two swim together and play together while the little one is off by itself. Should I be concerned with their behaviors?
<I would separate the third turtle for awhile and see if he gets more active. If he does then he is clearly not happy in the existing situation.>
When I first got the turtles, one was twice the size of the other two.
The other two were relatively the same size. They have been very healthy since I got them and have been growing wonderfully. In the past three weeks, one of the smaller turtles (the one who does bask) has been growing rapidly.
It is now the same size as my larger turtle. It is beginning the shedding process and its shell looks as if it is caving in in sections. Is this normal?
< The turtles shell should be round and smooth. Irregularities in the shell are usually caused by diet. As turtles grow they need more vegetable matter in their diet and less protein. I would recommend an adult pelleted commercial turtle food as a staple, supplemented with veggies such as kale and spinach.>
Also, today, I noticed a small brownish- red spot under its neck. It seems fine, but the spot is a little abnormal, so I am concerned. Also, my smallest turtle doesn't seem to be growing at all. It's half the size of the other two. Could this be because it rarely basks? It eats normal, just as the other two. How quickly should they grow? Thank you for all of your help,
Denise
< Turtles can grow at different rates depending on their sex. Male turtles don't get as big as female turtles. If the smaller turtle is eating fine and seems active then this may be the case. If it acts shy, doesn't eat, doesn't bask, then I think you have a problem and the turtle needs his own set up for awhile. Turtles should grow a couple inches a year in the first couple of years and then start to slow down to about an inch a year. -Chuck>

Turtles always acting hungry/begging   3/29/07
Hi there!
Thanks so much for your incredibly informative website!  It has really helped me learn how to properly care for my two Red Ear Slider turtles. I've had them about a year and a half and they are 3.5 inches long and 3 inches wide (they were silver dollar size when I got them) they are now growing fast and shedding skin.  They are active swimmers and like to bask under the heat and UVA/UVB lamps.
<Sounds like you have a great set up!>
I have a couple of questions though...
<Fire away.>  
My turtles constantly want food!
<Normal for most people and animals.>
They are always begging when I come by the tank, swimming up to me and poking their heads out of the water.  I currently feed them once a day, a rounded teaspoonful (approx. 50-60 pieces) of Nutrafin Max Turtle Gammarus medium pellets which I pre-hydrate before feeding in a little water mixed with ReptoCal supplement and they eat them up SO FAST!
<Sounds good, but be sure and augment the pellets with other foods, perhaps alternating each day to get variety. Pellets one day, veggies the next, earthworms the third, and so on. Besides being more fun for the turtles (or terrapins as we call them here in the UK) variation prevents animals become either addicted to just one food or else turned off by it all of a sudden.>
If I give them more, they eat more - no food ever goes uneaten.
<Suggesting their appetites are good, always a positive sign with reptiles.>
They gobble up earthworm and mealworm treats and try to swallow them whole as snakes do.
<That's how reptiles eat -- they can't chew.>
I usually cut up the worms because I'm afraid the turtles will choke.
<Most animals can't choke; humans choke largely because of where the larynx is, an evolutionary adaptation that provides a benefit (speech) at the cost of greater risk of choking. But I digress...>
I've read on your site that overfeeding is bad and can lead to the turtles growing faster than their shells.
<I'm not sure they grow faster than their shells, but it is certainly possible for turtles to get insufficient calcium in their diet (or insufficient UV light) and therefore develop improperly formed shells as they grow. Provided the diet is rich in calcium as well as the other nutrients, I wouldn't worry too much.>
I don't want to feed too much or too little, so how much food and how often should I be feeding?
<Tricky question because it depends on the nutritional value of the food being used. The pellets should state on the packaging what amount to give per day. Vegetables can be really be give at liberty, because they can't really overindulge in them, since most of the plant material is water and indigestible cellulose. What matters in the plants are vitamins and minerals. Meaty foods are more serious. But I'd not give a turtle a bigger food item at one time than was the size of its head. Not very scientific, but at least easy to estimate! It is actually much easier to overfeed a turtle than underfeed it (just as with fish, or for that matter humans).>
Also, I've read that older turtles need veggies such as spinach and kale in their diets - but exactly how old is an "older turtle"?  When should I introduce the veggies?  I would appreciate your advice.
<Indeed correct, as red-ears mature they become more herbivorous in the wild. Presumably their size and bulk makes it less easy for them to catch prey. Anyway, there's no harm in feeding some greens straightaway. If nothing else, you'll be training your young turtles to accept a variety of foods. Greens also provide essential vitamins as well as roughage, which prevents constipation, a common problem with captive turtles. Be sure and use a variety of plants. Dandelion leaves and round (not iceberg) lettuce are particularly good. Obviously, thoroughly clean anything used to avoid pesticide residues. As mentioned earlier, these can (perhaps should) be available 24/7 so that the turtles can graze when they're feeling peckish.>
Thank you,
Gina
<Cheers, Neale>
 
Sitting Turtle  - 03/20/07  
I have 4 sliders in one tank and recently my oldest one is no longer active and just sits on the bottom of the tank. Also has a white spot on his nose, other than that appears to be in good health. I don't know what to do, my other turtles show no sign of illness but don't seem to be eating as much as they do normally. I changed the water and filter with new and also checked the water temp. enclosed is a picture of my sick turtle. Thanks, Robert
< A turtle's activity is somewhat based on the surrounding temperatures. Increase the temp. of the basking site and see if it makes any difference.-Chuck.>

Turtles Acting Strange  - 03/20/07  
OK, I think I got some good info from you guys but still feel like I need to be sure here.
I have two RES.  We found them in our driveway about two days after a big rain about a year ago.  They were so small, about the size of a quarter.
They are growing well and doing fine together but recently they started what I read as some sort of mating thing.  Tucking their heads in a bit and extending their front legs out, flapping them at each other's face.  Both of them are doing it and they have been swimming all over, like they were racing or something.  I cooled the water some but it still continues and has been for about four days now. If they are trying to mate now what do I do?
< Sounds like you have a couple of young males that are trying to express their dominance. Probably still too young to mate and just going through the motions.>
And when do they actually start doing this?
< The actual mating is usually reserved until they get up to about 4 inches. They must be well cared for and feel like they have gotten "spring fever".-Chuck>
I mean, they are only about a year old, maybe 14 months.
  Thanks ahead of time for your help because I am completely lost here.

Female Turtle Biting Off Male Turtle's Nails  – 2/25/07
Hi! I have 2 RES who are 3.5 yrs old and have always lived together happily.  One is a male with .5 inch long nails and considerably smaller then the other one.  Recently I noticed that the little guys was missing a nail and his hand looked a little pink.  Tonight i noticed another missing from the other hand so I decided to take a good look at him.  During his mating dance the female took a snap at him and took off another nail!  My little guy doesn't seem to be in any pain and there is no blood etc.  My questions are:
1.  Is this normal?
2.  Is there anything I should be doing to treat the missing nail.
Your help is much appreciated!
< These are just a few of the problems people have when they keep more than one turtle together. The male wants to mate and his showing off to the female. In nature she would just swim away. Unfortunately in an enclosed space like an aquarium she has nowhere to go so she tries to discourage him by biting at him. The nails may grow back. Keep the water clean so they don't get infected. Add a Dr. Turtle Sulpha Block by ZooMed to inhibit any bacterial grow.-Chuck>

Aggressive Female RES  – 2/25/07
For the past several years I've owned two red-eared sliders.  I  believe from what I've read one is female and one is male.  In the past, the  female tended to be a bully, but on the whole they coexisted nicely in the  same 50 gallon tank for years until now.  I just noticed what I  thought to be a sore on the foot of the male.  I attempted to brush  it, thinking it was fungus or such, however it started to bleed and I realized  that it was a healing wound.  When I returned them to their tank I watched  for a while and noticed the female attacking the male, particularly the healing  wound area and the other foot.  
She was actually attacking the foot of the  male.  Why all of a sudden?
< Could be pregnant.>
Is she suffering from PMS?
< It is getting to be spring in some parts of the country. A pregnant female turtle doesn't want anyone around when she lays her eggs.>
Do I  have to keep them separated all of a sudden?  Which will be a problem due  to space limitations. Thank you. Trish
<Get a tank divider but supply a basking site for the male too. Try putting them back together in a couple of months. Sometimes the female like her space and will continue to harass the other turtle.-Chuck>

Turtle Not Acting Normal - 02/11/2007
Hello all, I've been reading your site for a few hours now and I still can't find what I'm looking for.
< Thanks for trying.>
My Red Eared Slider, Manny, was 'rescued' from Chinatown, NY on Christmas about a month and a half ago.  Everything was going fine, he was eating well (not too much, a few pellets and some freeze dried shrimp once a day), and basking a good deal.  Things changed, however.  Manny stopped eating about a week ago.  He stopped basking about 4 days ago.  I have a 5 gallon tank for now (I plan to get another temporary 30 gallon tank when he grows a little more and becomes a stronger swimmer).  I keep his water at between 80 and 85 degrees and his basking site between 85 and 90 degrees.  I clean his tank once every 1 or two weeks.  I forced him to bask (placed him in a container with no water under the basking light) for a few hours yesterday.  Today I took him to the vet today and he gave him a shot of vitamins but he's still not eating or basking.  I read somewhere on your site when they are sick to turn the water temp down to 70, which I did, but now he's still staying in that 70 degree water and not coming out to bask and I feel bad chilling the poor guy.  I only noticed yesterday that he was breathing with his mouth opened when I went to feed him (I feed in a separate tank). He's mouth breathing today too.  There is no discharge or anything seeming wrong with his nose.  The vet said he looked healthy-a good color and there was no chipping cracking or peeling on his shell.  I was just wondering if there's anything you could add to clarify poor Manny's situation.  Thanks so much for your time and help, -Jill
<This is a difficult situation. None of the symptoms you have mentioned really stand out as anything in particular but lets cover the basics. The tank set up sounds good. I recommend that the tanks water temp always be set at 70 F. The temp change between the basking site and the cooler water make it difficult for pathogens to survive. The open mouth breathing could be a respiratory infection but that usually is seen with a nasal discharge and the turtle's inability to sink while swimming. Many times these rescue turtle are starved nearly to death. The rescuer tries to put weight back on the poor turtle and they get over fed. The food rots in their gut and the gas and bloat expand the digestive system and starts to displace the other vital organs like the lungs. Turtles are trapped in a shell and cannot expand their waistband when they eat too much. Turtles die from being overfed. I think you have done all you can for now. Keep the water clean and don't try to feed him again until he gets more active and acts like he is hungry.-Chuck>

Turtle Wants In The Water    2/2/07
Hi.  I read thru the FAQ but didn't see an answer to my concern.  We got a red slider (slagmar) for Christmas for our pond...it has a basking rock that we are pretty sure he can get on and it has a beach area that we are certain he can get to.  We are in AZ and was told that he would be fine in the pond but the temp dropped recently (30 at night / 60 in the day).  Well, slagmar seemed to stay under water forever in one spot and when we put him on the basking rock he jumps right back into the water.  We have also placed him on the beach area (tail facing water) and he goes as fast as he can right back into the water.  We broke down and brought Slagmar indoors into our 10 gallon tank (threw the little goldfish into the pond) and he is now swimming around and as happy as can be.  We would like to put him back into the pond when it warms up, hopefully in a week or two but are concerned that Slagmar will go back to just sitting in one area at the bottom of the pond.  Do you think he will be fine once the weather warms up or should we just break down and purchase a larger tank and keep him indoors? Thanks for your help! Kathy
< Winter is a poor time of year to start a turtle outdoors. Keep him indoors for a few months and when the weather warms up he can be placed outdoors and kept year round.-Chuck>

Little Turtles Not Moving   1/23/07
Hello, I was wondering if you could answer my questions. I believe that my baby red ear sliders are either sick or malnourished. I have had them for about a month now and they have been pretty active, and now all they do is sit under that basking lamp all day. They are in a ten gallon aquarium with two pumps and a basking area with a UVA bulb that gets about 90 or so degrees. I have gravel and some big stones so they can relax in the water. There basking area is completely out of the water it’s like a turtle tree house. I also have a heater and change the water at least once every two weeks with a nice rinse of each filter. I also bought them bait fish. I take them outside at least for 2 hours a day if not more and they just are not staying active. I have not seen them eat in about 4 days and all the fish are still there. They refuse to dive and one sleeps upside down in the water belly up. Their shells are also really soft and when you put a little pressure on the outside
of the shell it will bend. It is almost like bending leather yet it is still supportive. They are only babies so I was wondering if there was something wrong. They both also have a brown spot on their head, it’s like a discoloration or it could be normal I’m not sure. I use a sulfa block in the water and the brown spot was not there when I got the turtles. Thank you so much! Kyle
<Your little turtles are overfed on the wrong food. Little turtles need a varied diet of insects, fish, worms and vegetable matter. You have let them stuff themselves on bait fish. Bait fish have almost no nutritional value. These fish are barely maintained to stay alive. When you let the turtles eat the fish at will, they overate, and now the fish in their gut has started to rot causing gas and all kinds of intestinal problems. Stop feeding the turtles. Remove all food items from the tank. Allow them to bask and heat themselves up. Turtles die from being overfed. Hopefully the heat can generate enough digestive enzymes to move the rotting food through the turtles digestive tract. If your turtle do survive and act hungry, feed them three times a week. Feed them pellets made especially for baby turtles. Watch them eat. When they start to slow down they are getting full and should not be fed any more and the remaining food removed from the tank.-Chuck>

Unhappy Turtle  1/19/07
Hello,
<Hi Michelle, Pufferpunk here>   
I just got a RES and spent numerous hours researching to make sure I provide him a proper environment. I have noticed that he seems to spend much of the day rapidly swimming against the edges of the tank. Is this normal, is he just following a reflection or is he in distress??? Thank you for your time and any response would be greatly appreciated!!
<It could be a few things: Tank is too small. Toxins in the water (are you using dechlorinator?). Water too cold/hot.  Does it have any land to rest/bask on?  Could just be adjusting to his new surroundings...  Check out this site for more turtle info:
http://www.turtletimes.com/  ~PP>   
~~~Michelle E. Olson~~~

Weird Turtle Dance  - 1/18/07
Okay so I have a Red Eared Slider and he is about 6 years old.  I adopted him about two years ago, he was living in really poor conditions with his previous owner and now he is doing extremely better with the exception of his shell being turned up, damage he will never recover from.
< Over time he shell may eventually flatten out during molts.>
I recently took him to the vet just for a check up because he was constantly on basking spot, seemed very lethargic and was not really eating, but it was chalked up to being the season for this sort of behaviour.  It was a week ago that he went to the vet and now he has done a complete 180 and is so obnoxious wanting attention all the time and never going on his dry spot except to dive off and splash.  I let him out to roam around a lot, he seems to enjoy it but the last week when ever I do he tends to gravitate to our hardwood floor area and he does this l call it  "weird" dance.  The best way to describe it is he has his back legs sprawled out so he would be balancing on his knee area and completely raises his front off the ground and goes into a trance mode and wiggles around.  You can't distract him from it and it's almost automatic for him to go to that same area and start doing that same little dance whenever he is out.  Any ideas as to what is going on? Steph*
< On land, turtles tend to gravitate toward the safety of the water. I suspect that your hardwood floors are very shiny and the turtle may be confused that the shiny floor may be the reflection of water. Once on the floor I have no idea what is going on and can only guess. The floor may be very cold and he is trying to suspend his body off the cold substrate so he will not lose any body heat.-Chuck>

Little Turtle Sunning Himself All The Time
Hi, I have had a res since about October. He used to be energetic and swim and run off his log where he suns when someone would come into the room. Now he won't eat, just suns himself all the time, he also has diarrhea, and I have noticed the bottom of his shell is soft but the top is fine. He doesn't want to swim or do anything he just stays up and suns him. I know his water is warm because we put in a heater at about 78 degrees and he lives in a 10 gallon tank. We feed him ReptoMin with vitamin and calcium in it and romaine lettuce. We don't know what's wrong or what we should do. Thanks
AO
<Check the temperature of the basking site . It should be at least 85 F. Stop feeding him. If he is not eating then the food is just polluting his tank. When he does start to move you should only feed him three times per week. Watch him eat and stop feeding him when his eating slows down. He is full and does not need to be stuffed. Your turtle may already be "Too" full and needs time and heat to digest his food. Especially if he is not warm enough. Many little turtles die from being overfed. The food rots in their gut causing some of the problems you are describing.-Chuck>

Turtle Won't Bask
Hello, I have a very important question. My red ear slider turtle is about 4 months old I guess (shell is about 5 inches long, maybe that helps for age determination)
<He is much older than 4 months.>
, Since I have had him, he never wanted to bask. I have a 55 gallon long tank, usually filled about half way, with a landing pad from pet
smart (can be seen here  :
http://www.petsmart.com/media/ps/images/products/detail/standard/March04/5974_36757.jpg). The only times he has gone up there is when I lured him up there with some food. But then he took the food and dove back in the water.
He never wants to sit up there. What can I do? Thanks in advance.-Joe Garite II
< Basking helps the turtle develop vitamins needed for good growth. The heat from the lamp helps him digest his food. Check the temperature of the basking spot with a thermometer. It should be at least 85 F. If it is too cold then get a bigger light or move the existing one closer.-Chuck>

Turtle Getting Lighter
Hola...I have 2 baby RES... I got them about a month and a half ago.
They're in a 10 gallon tank with a filter, heater and basking spot.
One of them seems to have been getting lighter and lighter in color as the weeks go by. They were both originally the same color. I could barely tell them apart at first besides looking at their size and shell pattern. As the weeks have gone by, one seems to be getting lighter in the shell and on its skin.
He is healthy as far as behavior goes He goes out to bask in the sun often, he is the more aggressive turtle and very social with people.
These are my first turtles so I don't know if it's because of shedding, rot or if it's just normal. Help pleeeeease.
< If it was something your were doing or environmental factors then I think it would be affecting both of them. At this point I would just assume that it is genetics unless you observe anything abnormal.-Chuck>

Female Turtle Very Active  - 09/13/06
Hi there, I have two red eared slider turtles, a male and a female. Lately the female (the larger of the two) has been acting strange and, every time I walk into the room that the tank is in, she starts splashing around with her legs really aggressively and make water go everywhere. I thought the problem might be because she's hungry and excited that I'm there too feed her, but even when I've fed her heaps she'll do it continually, so I'm out of ideas and I was wondering if you could help me out, thanks!
< A number of things could be going on here and we will address them one at a time. Older turtles need more vegetable matter in their diet. Try adding some greens like spinach and kale. The additional fiber will make her fuller, longer and she will not seem as hungry. As fall approaches the days are shorter and winter will not be too far behind. Many turtles use this time to fatten up before hibernation so they can survive a long winter on stored fat. Lastly, she could be pregnant and wants out or a dry sandy spot so she can lay her eggs.-Chuck>

Was: Female Turtle Very Active, Now: Pregnant RES Turtle  - 09/14/06
Hi there. Thanks for replying so quickly! My turtle is only  3 years old so she probably is pregnant due to the circumstances (she also has vitamins and things in her food) and I was wondering if you knew of any other characteristics and signs turtles show when they are pregnant and if she is pregnant how do I set up the tank?? thanks again!!
< We got a couple of questions similar to yours this week. I consulted with a real turtle expert and he seems to think that the females may be gravid with eggs and are indeed looking for a place to lay them. Turtles lay their eggs in soft sand. The female excavates a shallow 4-6 inch hole and lays her eggs. They are then covered up and the female has nothing more to so with them. You will find a few websites with very detailed information on setting up and hatching turtle eggs.-Chuck>

Turtle May Be Wanting to Lay Eggs  9/9/06
I have two Red Ear Sliders. One male and one female.  They are in a 40 gallon tank with 20 gallons of water.  There is a platform for basking with a heat lamp. The last few days the female has been trying to climb out of the tank.  I feel that there is plenty of room for both turtles.   Do you think she is trying to find a sandy area to lay eggs??
< The male could be harassing her wanting to breed or she could be looking for a place to lay eggs. Usually they lay their eggs in the late spring, but they are known to lay eggs during almost any month it is warm. After a while she will lay her eggs in the water and the turtles will eat them. If you really want to breed them then you will need to provide a sandy are for her to lay her eggs. Then incubate them for a few months .-Chuck>

Turtle Growth Rates  8/8/06
I have read various articles on the internet about red ear sliders (RES) and I know that they grow quickly, but I haven't been able to find out how
quickly.  I understand that it depends somewhat on their care.  I am looking into getting a RES for the first time and I would like to know how quickly I
should expect them to grow.  I am looking at getting a 40 or 60 gal. aquarium to start, but I would like some idea about how long those tanks
will be big enough.  I am looking to start with a turtle that is about 4 inches. Thanks, Troy
< Turtle growth rates as you know depend on a few factors. Males stay smaller than females. A very large old female may get up to 12 inches over many years. Males may get up to 8 inches but that would be pretty rare. When turtles are small they eat a lot of meat. This protein promotes an very quick growth rate. Older turtles like yours actually change their diet to a more vegetarian one. Vegetables have less protein than meat so they don't grow as fast. Turtles kept outside in the southern portion of the U.S. are growing year round while others kept outside in the north hibernates in the winter and don't grow at all during that time.  A 40 to 60 gallon tank would probably  keep your turtle going until it got to be about 8 inches. Under normal conditions this would probably take another 5 to 10 years if it is a female.-Chuck>

Turtles Getting Older   7/28/06
Hello. I like your site.
<Thanks>
A family I knew was a typical "turtles are cute let's get turtles" family and they ended up giving their pair of red-eared sliders to me. Well I wanted to be responsible so I read up on care, bought a bigger tank (twice now), and have tried to give them a reasonably good home. They seem happy, except for the occasional bullying. They act like they are well acclimated to my home, I've never noticed any health issues (spots, mucus, etc that would be obvious concerns). They swim around a lot, they bask, they shed, they are growing so much every time I have guests they say they are huge. I think they are about 3 or 4 now. One is about 6 inches long and the other is about 4. Both lower shells are flat and I see no difference in tails or claws, so I figure they must be the same sex, aside from the whole size thing.
I had thought they were both female until suddenly the big one had a wound on the neck so I separated them. Since I only have one light and one filter, I put the other one back in under supervision so he can not be too deprived and they both started fluttering their front claws at each other (so now they are both males?). Is there any chance that a female will do the dance as well or because I saw both of them doing it at the same time, is that proof-positive that they are both males?
< This fluttering is usually associated with males but I guess females could do this too.>
I don't want to see either of them get hurt or have a bad home. I live alone so I enjoy having the company. They beg for food when I come home from work, which is fun at first but they will do it for hours (I put a blanket up in front of the tank if it bothers me). They like to watch TV and they have distinct personalities. I've seen the big one trying to bite the tank wall before (presumably trying to attack his own reflection) but he gives up after a short time and it seems no harm is done. It's amusing to say the least. He also learned to eat from my hand and now won't leave my hands alone whenever I have to put my hands into the tank to do maintenance on the filter (also amusing - I know it's my fault for playing around with teaching them to eat out of my hands, so I don't blame him for it).
Any way, I doubt I can keep up two separate tanks for the next 40 years, any tips on how someone who lives in a very rural area can find a good home for a turtle?
< Give to a pet shop, place an add in the paper, county animal rescue or even a school.>
I think the littler one lost the battle for dominance and is now afflicted with a sort of "short man's syndrome" and has become more aggressive. The big one is bolder but gentle with humans and likes to explore but the littler one will bite people, although not hard enough to hurt anyone, I worry about children and won't let them touch him, much to their disappointment (and no worries, I insist on thorough hand washing if any kids do get near the turtles).
Another question, is it important to feed them a varied diet? It's not very easy to get specialized pet food in my area because mostly we just have your typical cats, dogs, birds, goldfish, and farm animals. They've had a diet of Wardley reptile premium sticks since I got them. I tried feeding them some kind of lettuce-like green early on after I got them, but they acted like they couldn't tell that it was edible. This year I fed them some cherries that I tore into little pieces and they were noticeably more enthusiastic for them than they are for their normal food, so I am thinking I'll do that again. I'm not sure if I can do worms and bugs, though. If I don't vary their diet am I going to have to find homes for both of them instead of just one?
< Try earthworms, insects , kale and spinach. They will try them and eventually learn to eat them.-Chuck>
Sorry for the length and thanks for your enthusiasm for water-loving creatures. Heather

Found A New Turtle   7/28/06
Hi there!  I stumbled on this site today & it’s GREAT!
My teen daughter found a small RES (about 2-2.5”) this afternoon in the middle of our street.  There’s no water in the immediate area, so I’m thinking he was abandoned by a neighborhood kid.
First – he seems very scared of people – normal at such a young age?  How much handling should he be getting?
< Small turtles are very wary of everything that may potentially eat them. Small turtles can inflict a painful bite and may carry diseases. I would recommend that if you plan on keeping him  that you let him get use to his new home before you begin to handle him. wash your hands every time you pick him up.>
Second – I set up a temporary home using a large Tupperware container (about a foot high) with a large baking dish full of water sunk down in a few inches of dirt / pebbles.  There is a large rock that allows him to climb easily in / out of the water & he likes the cave created underwater.  This arrangement seems to work for now because of his size, but I cannot afford a filter for the water for a little while.  I do plan on changing the water daily (I used bottled water and make sure the temp is right) – will the lack of a filter / aeration device cause a problem for a few weeks if the water is kept clean?
< Daily water changes will be fine. feed him first and this will make him defecate . Then clean the tank.>
I live in central FL & plan on keeping this habitat in the shade on the front porch - moving it a bit to receive partial direct sun for a bit each late afternoon – but I’m not sure how hot a hatchling can tolerate.  It gets in the mid 90’s lately.  Do I just make sure the water temp stays cool (75 – 80)?Appreciate all your help – this site has already helped greatly!  T.
< Put a board over some of the tank to prevent full exposure to the sun for extended periods. They can handle water in the mid 80's for awhile but they really need to cool down too.-Chuck>

Is my red eared slider lonely ... Nope . Is your English bunk? Yep   7/27/06
I  had two red eared sliders, we got them when they were little and they been together for about 4 years, recently my other turtle wondered
<And wandered?>
off when she/he  was in the yard and I haven't been able to find it, I need to no
<Doctor?>
if it would be a  good idea to get another slider because my other turtle is not eating like he  use to and he spends most of his time in the corner of his tank. Would a Western  Painted turtle and a Red Eared slider turtle get along in the same tank
<Mmm, about as well as a conspecific>
and if  so if one is bigger or smaller then the other would that be a problem.
<... about the same size is a good match. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rescompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above.>
BobF>

RES After New RES's    6/26/06
We have had our Red-eared Slider for about 4 months and she has grown quite nicely. We had hoped to add another RES to our family but never got around to it until now. We went ahead and purchased a much larger custom made tank with plenty of basking space, and hiding spots for them to explore. Our new arrivals (the g.f. decided to get 3 new additions instead of the one we had planned) have come before the new tank is ready for use. So we decided to add the new babies to the existing tank for the time being. The problem we are seeing is that our existing RES is bullying the much smaller new kids on the block. Her behaviour includes putting her front legs together and vibrating or fluttering them very quickly at the tail end of the newbies, chasing after them from behind,(the newbies do not even know they are being followed and do not pay any attention to their stalker) and even pulling them off the floating basking dock when they attempt to climb aboard. We have even witnessed the old lady attempt to take a bite out of one of the newbies but was surprised when the newbie snapped at her 1st. Do we have any need to fear that the existing turtle will kill, or severely injure any of our new additions, and do RES become cannibalistic? The existing RES is well fed, actually spoiled, and very much larger than her new tank mates.
Any answers would be of great help.
< If you read any of the past FAQ's about turtles you will find that I always recommend only one turtle per container. Turtles view other turtles as competition. The only time they want nother turtle around is for mating. The front claw fluttering is usually associated with male turtles attempting to get the attention of  a female. Hopefully things will settle down over time and the new turtles won't have any bites taken out of them. In the meantime I would prepare to separate the turtles before it is too late. Your older bigger turtle will kill and eat a smaller turtle. RES's are actually very aggressive turtles.-Chuck.

Turtles Shedding  6/25/06 -
Hi Crew - I can read your questions and answers for hours. Great information! I have three red-eared sliders. Two males (Phantom and
Tucker) I adopted about a year ago, both of which are blind. One of them, Phantom, is now shedding his scutes but they are taking there time about
falling off. When he is under water I can see they are transparent and almost iridescent. When he is out of the water I can push on the top
layer and see there is water underneath. He does not have shell rot and his shell is smooth and hard. Should I be concerned?
<To get a clean shed it is important that there is a big difference in temperatures. Very hot from basking to very cool in the water is the kind of temps that cause the explanation and contraction of the scutes and helps them shed. Since they are blind they may not be basking as much as they should. give them a little time to get rid of them.>
Or is there anything I can do to expedite the process? Or should I want to?...
<Check that the basking site is at least up to 85 F and keep the water clean to prevent any infections.>
Now that Phantom is more comfortable in his surroundings he is eating better. He has a great deal of shedding skin that occasionally falls off and floats
in the water. Any suggestions as to how I can get rid of this skin shedding?
< This is normal for a growing turtle.>
Or at least help him loose it faster? I'm not sure if it bothers him but looking at it is driving ME crazy.
< Once again, elevated basking temperatures makes everything go a little faster with turtles.>
My third adopted RES, Francesca, is a large female. I only have her a few months.
She has a mild form of MBD where her carapace turns upward over her head and tail - the sides are normal and her plastron is flat but her
entire carapace is very rough so that you can see each and every scute ring. I am hoping the proper diet she is on now will help. Last week I
discovered two spots of shell rot. One on her plastron and one on her carapace. I removed the necrotic tissue and cleaned the area with
povidone-iodine for a week. Now, every other day I apply gentian violet to the areas. Any advice?
< Keep the water clean and add a Dr Turtle Sulpha Block by Zoo Med to prevent any additional bacterial infections.>
All three of them are in separate tanks. Each tank has two large canister filters/a large "turtle dock"/ and UV spotlights. They are all eating well and bask regularly. I vary their
diet which includes: fresh greens and vegetables/freeze dried krill/freeze dried Tubifex worms/Spirulina disks/shrimp pellets/premium reptile sticks/TetraMin Tablets "The Rich Mix"/gut-loaded crickets/snails/slugs/red wriggler earthworms/vegetarian tropical fish pellets/ carnivore pellets/chicken or beef cat treats/high-end low protein cat kibble/Reptivite powder/liquid vitamins (I add to the water since they are fed in their respective containers - outside their tanks). The water is clean - parameters stable/filters maintained regularly/regular water changes. I can't understand why Francesca would get shell rot and Phantom is shedding so much skin. I appreciate any thoughts you may have and thanks in advance - both for your site and
response. Regards, Thomas (Phantom, Tucker and Francesca)
< Mature turtles need more vegetable matter in their diet. I would reduce some of the animal protein with more vegetation.-Chuck>

Turtle Not Moving, Too Cold   6/11/06
Hi I just got a baby RES turtle, she's a girl, and I went to check on her awhile ago and she was all tucked inside her shell and when I picked her up she wouldn't come out!! After about 10 minutes she had moved from where I had put her but I am concerned that I am doing something wrong! I am buying a thermometer and heater for her tank tomorrow because I am afraid she is too cold but I am not sure!! I hope that u can answer my questions!
Signed, a concerned parent.
< The basking site should be at least 85 F. Check that you have the proper lighting and that the basking site is warm enough. Turtles need to go between hot and cold to stay healthy. Too hot or too cold is not good.-Chuck>

Turtle Outgrowing Shell  5/31/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a very small (~1.5" diameter CL) red eared slider.  
<Wow, that is tiny.  Sounds cute!>
He was given to me one month ago.  I have been feeding him ReptoMin baby mini floating food sticks.  Water temp is 78 degrees F (filtered).  The basking area is the same temperature but I have never seen him use it.  After being gone for a few days (someone came to feed him daily, missed one day) I noticed that his shell has become discolored.  It is whitish and focused at the outside of his plates.  His water was dirty when I got back and is now being changed.  I have included a picture of his shell before (1) and after (2) the discoloration.  
<Thanks for the pics.  Very helpful!>
I have read a lot of entries about shell rot, funguses and shedding but didn't see pictures to identify which problem was the case in each instance.  Any advice would be helpful.  Thanks.
<Yes, your turtle is outgrowing it's shell & getting ready to shed.  You will see the scutes popping off & nice bright green ones underneath.  At your turtle's young age, this will happen a lot.  I'd add a shell conditioner (containing calcium), to be sure the shell remains healthy.  You can also vary the diet with krill, pieces of fish, shrimp or whatever you see for sale in the fish dept of your grocery store.  It's good to soak in vitamins 1st.  The also love crickets & worms too.  ~PP>

Aggressive RES  - 05/29/06
Hi, I have one RES and one painted turtle living together.  The RES is much bigger than the painted and seems to bite and claw at it.  My painted turtle also seems scared of the RES and has sores where its nails should be.  I think the RES is biting the Painted turtle's nails.  The RES is very aggressive toward the painted and I don't know what to do.  Please help me.  Thank You
< As far as turtles go the RES is a very aggressive turtle and is not likely to change anytime soon. They are even this way with each other. Many times people think they get lonely and need the company of another turtle. They actually view each other as competition and need to be separated for good.-Chuck>

Turtle Can't Sink  - 5/18/2006
Hi, I'm hoping you can help me.  I have two little red eared sliders that my brother won at a street fair last summer.  We have them 9 months, in a 20 gal long tank.  Plenty of swimming and diving room in warm water, nice basking area and good filtration.  We take them out to feed them ( feeders, tuna, cooked meat), they would not eat the Reptomin so my husband blended it with some grapes and lettuce and they nibb