Basking concerns, RES  10/17/09
Dear Crew
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I am a fairly new owner of two red eared sliders. They are active, seem to eat well and generally seem to be doing well. I'm concerned that I do not see them out basking and know this is essential to their health. They are in a 55 gallon aquarium set up where they have both water and land, as well as several other areas they can get out of the water to bask. I do have a calcium bone in the water that I can see they are using. I have pellets that I feed them, as well as some dried shrimp occasionally and some soft meaty food. I have tried to give them some romaine lettuce, but they do not eat it.
<Nor should they. Koi pellets or Repto-min turtle sticks (either one) are a completely balanced diet for Red Eared Sliders. That and an occasional earth worm as a treat (maybe one or two a month) is all they need.>
They also will only eat food if I put it in the water, they will not come out to get anything from the dish in the dry area.
<Sliders are water feeders, which is to say that they primarily eat what they find in the water. The will, from time to time, climb up on a bank and snatch something and then drag it back into the water in order to eat it. You should hand feed them>
I have a basking lamp over the dry land area and a UV light over the water area. It's possible they could be out basking when I am not around, as they are still pretty skittish when there's movement around the tank.
<possible>
Should I be concerned and/or is there something else I should be doing to encourage them to come out of the water? Also, I have the basking lamp on a timer and do not use the night heating lamp, is that night lamp necessary?
<You should always be concerned .. just not worried. The first thing to do is make sure you have a temperature gradient. If the water is warm enough they won't feel the need to bask even though they need it. The water should never be above room temperature and the basking area around 85-90 degrees. This way they have clear choices..>
<No lights or heat at night ... let everything cool naturally and then it will all cycle again in the morning. Here's a care guide we have -- check your conditions against the guide and correct anything that's not quite in order: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Question about Turtles, RES gen. reading     9/20/09
Dear Crew,
<Hiya -- Darrel here>
2 weeks ago I bought a Red Eared Slider from a local pet shop.
<I hope it wasn't an impulse buy....>
He's a little over 4 inches. I have him in a 10 gallon tank for the time being .....
<A 10 gallon tank is quite small for a turtle that size, so you'll need to start thinking of a bigger one. When you do, remember to think wide and long more than deep. A "larger" tank that is a "show tank" isn't much value to a growing turtle>
.... with a UVB heat lamp .....
<Normally we get our UV from one type of bulb and our heat from another.
He needs the UV-B wavelength and the temperature on the basking platform should be between 92 and 95 (f) degrees -- make sure he has both>
..... and a submersible water heater set at 72 degrees F.
<Bad idea for a couple of reasons (1) Unless you live north of the Arctic
Circle, any room comfortable enough for YOU is find for his water. The whole point of a basking light is so that he can choose to warm up under the lamp or cool off in the water. (2) Turtles can break them .. and then you have broken glass problems. I suggest you remove the heater>
At first he was very shy but had lots of energy, always swimming around.
Lately I've noticed that he doesn't have as much energy as he did in the beginning.
<Probably because his environment isn't quite right yet>
Also I've tried to feed him Guppies, Strawberries, and Romaine leafs but all he really seems to care about are his turtle sticks.
<Well, that's good -- because guppies, strawberries and romaine aren't really good for him and not part of his natural diet anyway. Repto-Min turtle sticks are a perfectly balanced diet for a Slider. They are
essentially identical to Koi pellets, just a lot more expensive. Forget the other foods and just make sure your turtle sticks are a high quality brand that offered balanced nutrition.>
He won't go after anything that does not float at the top of the water and he does not bask!! Ever!! I have a small floating dock for him under the UVB lamp but he never gets on it!! He's always in the water and does not
want to come out of it!!!
<This is a problem. A turtle's natural habitat is the land surrounding the surface of the water. If he's not basking, then he's not maintaining proper body temperature, he's not getting the UV light necessary to manufacture essential vitamins and he's opening his shell and skin to a multitude of bacterial and fungal infections.>
So I'm just wondering if that's a bad thing?
<yes>
How can I get him to eat other things because I know he needs it!!
<Not our worry right now>
And should I be forcing him to bask in the light or just let him be in the water??
<Little Spirky needs to be warm and dry MORE than he needs to be wet and cool and you have to find a way to get him to bask. Possibly, if it's not warm enough on the platform he won't bother. Does it float around and
perhaps too hard to climb on? Fin the problem and fix it.>
<If necessary, take him out of the tank and place him in a box or tub with high sides and the basking & UV lamps shining on one end. If you place him in his tank, or even a shallow bowl of water, for 15 minutes a day in order to eat, drink and poop -- he can stay in the box/tub for months if needed -- but he NEEDS the warmth and the UV.>
<Here is a link to basic care. Check every part of your care against the article -- and correct anything that's wrong>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Re: Question, about RES gen.  – 9/22/09
Hi Darrel, thank you so much for your help!!!
<Not a problem!>
He wasn't an impulse buy, I've wanted a turtle for a long time now, but I guess I didn't do enough research!!!
<But you came to the right place>
But just so I have all of this correctly...
I need to get him a bigger tank, so I'm thinking 20 gallons??
<That would be fine .. for now>
Right now I have one of those floaty foam ramp things for him to bask on but he doesn't seem to like it, I'm guessing because maybe it's not stable enough for him??
<That would be my guess, yes. They like their basking areas to be stable>
I have been feeding him HBH Turtle bites, he likes them but the question is are those okay for him? Should I be feeding him something better? And is that all he needs? I don't need to try to feed him anything else??
<I've never used that particular product but it seems fine from what I read about it. Just remember that a good quality Koi pellet is essentially the same thing and usually MUCH cheaper. I raise hatchling Sliders to
breeding adults on nothing more that Koi pellets and an occasional earth worm.>
And with the heat lamp how many volts would keep his basking area warm enough?? It doesn't seem like the water heater is making the water warm enough, it feels very cold to me.. so I was thinking of getting rid of it anyway!!!
<Yeah - get rid of the heater. A basking lamp and a UV lamp are usually different things. In my simpler setups, I use a 15 watt VitaLite UV bulb in a cheap florescent fixture and then just a 75 watt regular light bulb suspended over the basking area using a cheap "clamp-lamp". Both the clamp lamp with a reflector hood and the cheap 18 inch florescent fixture are available at most home supply stores for very little money>
Sorry for the million questions!! I just want him to be happy and have a safe healthy environment!
<No sweat -- we LIKE questions because questions lead to knowledge and that's what keeps our wet pets safe & happy!>
Thank you so much for your time and knowledge!!
<Yer Welcome.>

RES question, sys., gen...  7/21/2009
Hello. I just got two RES today as a gift. Along with the turtles i received a "Zilla deluxe aquatic turtle kit".
<Interesting product. The 20 gallon tank should hold in you in good stead for a few years, but do bear in mind Red-ear Sliders get to dinner-plate size eventually, and will outgrow that vivarium.>
It cam with 2 8.5 dome fixtures and a 75W day blue light blub and a tropical 25 13W UVB fluorescent Coil bulb. i was just wondering if at night do i turn off those lights or should i keep both on?
<Switch them off at night; indeed, a timer set to 12 hours on, 12 hours off would be ideal. You can pick one of these for a few quid (or dollars, or whatever) from most hardware stores, and a two-way adapter stuck into the timer would mean you could control both lights from the same timer.
Easy-peasey.>
I have no idea on how to take care of these adorable turtles and i hope you can help me.
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/RESCareBarton.htm
Red-ear sliders are pretty easy to keep, but there are some things to watch for. You've got the UV-B issue covered, and presumably warmth too with the daylight bulb, but the other issues are regular water changes, a greens-based diet, and a regular source of calcium so that they develop their bones and shell properly.>
Thank you,
Kelsey
<Good luck with your new pets! Cheers, Neale.>
RE: RES question
Thank you so much. You were a huge help! I'm sure my turtles would thank you also.
<Glad to have helped. Cheers, Neale.>

slider turtles... sys., gen.    7/18//09
Hi,
<Hiya - Darrel here>
I recently became the owner of two red slider turtles. I sort of inherited them. I was a teacher at a middle school in mid-Michigan. I got laid off at the end of the year. I had two turtles in my classroom the entire year that have been there for about 7 years. They were extremely mistreated by students, the former teacher did not seem to care too much about them, and the janitor informed me he was responsible for caring for them only because he felt bad that they were so poorly taken care of. They were in a tiny tank, no filter, and most of the time the students threw food, gum and candy in the tank. After a few breaks, when I returned, the tank smelled and looked like an outhouse. So, needless to say, at the end of the school year, I brought them home with me.
<Thank you -- on behalf of them!>
Now, having said that, I currently do not have any intentions of returning them to the school at the beginning of the year. However, I do not have the accommodations for them at my house. I do have a small fish pond that I was setting up in my back yard that I have sort of placed them in for the time being. I will keep them there if it is the best option.
<Over wintering becomes a problem in your climate and then we have to protect them from predators (raccoons, etc.) as well. You'll have to do that with fish as well, but fish are in some ways 'easier' than turtles.>
I do not have the money to buy a tank, filtration system, chemicals, and all of the other things I have read about on your website.
<You don't need much money. We'll get to that in a minute>
My first instinct was to release them in my backyard, which leads to a small creek. But, given that they have never been in the wild, I was not sure how they would survive.
<Survival skills would be a small issue, but climate, predators and diseases are. Believe it or not, captive turtles can carry respiratory infections that they can deal with quite well but that can be devastating to wild animal populations.>
<This is an important note to all pet keepers>
<Never ever EVER release a captive animal, fish or reptile into the wild.
It's almost always fatal to the fish or animal you're trying to help and when it's not it's devastating to local populations of all kinds of different animals, damaging to the ecosystems ... and ALMOST ALWAYS ILLEGAL!!>
They were able to survive in a very bad school environment for so long with students that do not have much care for human life, let alone that of a reptile.
<Tell me about it>
They have been in my back yard for a little over a month and seem to be enjoying it. But, my concern is that when winter comes, will instinct take over and they will automatically know to hibernate, or are they going to just freeze?
<The hibernation is instinctual, yes. But on the other hand, not every animal that hibernates lives through the winter and even fewer animals that over-winter in a freezing pond survive it. These animals CAN survive -- it's technically possible -- but by no means all DO survive it>
I had them in the classroom and know that they were active the entire school year. When I inquired to the former teacher (now principal) what to do with them over the summer break, she informed me that she never took them home and they were always fine when she returned in the fall. Of course, the janitor informed me that he was feeding them over this period of time and periodically changing their tank water.
<Red Eared Sliders are remarkably hardy animals but what that means is that they can SURVIVE a remarkable amount of mistreatment and neglect. That's not at all the same as saying that neglect or mistreatment are in any way 'good' for them!>
I have never had turtles before, but want to do right by them. I think I have a male and female (one has a longer tail than the other) and I know they were both babies when they were given to the former teacher. Okay, one last concern I have, since I have put them in my back yard, their back claws have seemed to wear down to nothing and periodically bleed. I think it is because they are constantly trying to escape (which also makes me think I should just let them go).
<Again .. NO!>
There were rocks on the bottom of the pond (a plastic pre-form), but I have since removed them and have not noticed the bleeding since then, about 3 days ago.
<My guess is that they're bleeding as a result of metabolic bone and tissue problems stemming from long term diet issues. Let's fix that first. Go find a high quality Koi pellet at your local fish store. They're inexpensive and are a completely balanced diet. Second, assuming they're outside I guess they're getting lots of natural sunshine? And they have a place they can haul out and completely dry off? If so, we're covering the basics. Enough of this and they'll start to heal themselves>
Okay, I know this is a lot, but I just want to help these little guys out the best I can. I would hate for me to try to do them right and end up harming them more than when they were at the school.
<Here's a link to a basic care article that will help you cover the basics.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
<the important thing to know is that you don't HAVE to spend a lot of money. For example, turtles of any size will almost always outpace a filter system. Eventually, even with the best filters, the water has to be siphoned and changed. So ... if you can't afford a filter, then you simply siphon and change more often (This goes for ponds as well as in-home setups). When they come inside for the winter, a simple Rubbermaid tub of sufficient size in your garage, laundry room or enclosed porch will be fine. Suspend an ordinary 60 w light bulb over the basking area and you've covered the basics. Proper UV lighting is suggested, but if they've been outside all summer and fall they'll be able to tolerate a few months with minimal environment. Keep the setup simple so that it's easy to break down and drain the water, etc. When things start to heat up in the spring .. be patient. Don't jump at the first warm spell -- let the weather stabilize, maybe late spring and THEN put them outside for the summer.>
<It really doesn't take much money to give a good home to a few turtles ... it just takes someone who cares!>

My res came home 2yrs later 7/1/09
Hello,
<Hiya -- Darrel here>
I really like your website.
<Why thank you! We're pretty proud of it too, but it's always nice to hear adoration from our fans>
I have 2 Red Eared Slider turtles. On mother's day, my husband picked up a Slider heading back to our house.
<Was your HUSBAND heading back to the house when he picked up this turtle or was the TURTLE heading back to the house when your husband, presumably out picking up other things ... happened to see him?>
I really believe it is Squirt, my turtle that ran away 2 years ago to the day. I believe this because I could always pet Squirts head whenever I would take her in and out of the house to her pool.
<It happens to me, too. Turtles are amazing climbers and eerily fast why no one's watching. I've "lost" a turtle or two and given up after searching everywhere ..... only to have them show up again months or years
later ... often in EXACTLY the spot they were last seen.>
I scrubbed off the algae, and took a stool sample to a qualified vet, followed by a visit. I brought to his attention, her underbelly, it had a sort of rubbed off area, a little redness but not so much soft. He gave us
silvadine ointment, and injections to take care of it on the inside and outside. One question I have is, is this contagious to my two other turtles? We have been doing both cream and injections for 2 weeks. There
is not anymore redness on her belly. I would like to know if this is still contagious to my other turtles.
<NO, you should be fine. For the most part, infections that affect reptiles are commonly occurring in their environment and don't affect a turtle until that particular turtle is debilitated by something else.
After the redness is gone the infection is pretty much in check.>
We want to integrate both in our pond. We have a beautiful 700 gal. But we are also afraid that our female "TIM TIM" will be territorial and not allow another turtle. We also have another 2yr old waiting to attend the pond. Tim Tim and our Squirt that came back are both 4yrs old.
<Sliders are usually affable enough in groups. They can be snappy and a little territorial from time to time, but if the pond is big enough that they can get away from each other when things get tense, then yes, by all
means put Squirt in with Tim Tim. It will, of course, take some time to adjust and just like any other mom, you should resist the urge to interfere when they first start to get to know each other. One suggestion is that
you make sure there are two different basking areas, so they can haul out separately if they so choose. Another is to rearrange what you can (rocks, branches, etc.) to make it a little unsettling for Tim Tim. If Tim Tim is even a tiny bit unsure of her surroundings, she's less apt to get nippy with a newcomer. This way, they both reestablish themselves at the same time.>

Newbie Guppy and Turtle Raiser... reading  3/16/2009 Hi, guys. This is my first time ever raising fish of any kind, and I am absolutely totally ignorant of what to do. I have a 1.5 gallon tank for my 5 male guppies and 1 female (yes, I know if I want to breed I should have gotten more females), and I'm kind of worried that the tank is way too small (after reading all I possibly could on that subject). <It is way too small... such little volumes of water are just inherently too unstable to be healthy> My mom wants to save as much money as possible, but I just want the advice so that I can save up to buy stuff for my fish. <I agree with your plan> I also have a really tiny turtle (I think it's a red eared slider, not completely sure) <Appears to be...> that I don't know it's gender of. <... not easily sex-able at this size... but see WWM re...: So here are my questions (I have a lot, is that ok?) 1.Do I need to have a heater? <Likely so... and posted... Start reading here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm and then the linked files above> 2.What does Ph stand for, and why do I have to measure it? <... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwph,alk.htm and the linked files...> 3.Is it likely that my female will kill the males that aren't 'good' enough for her? <Keep reading> 4.Can I play with my guppies(i.e. put my fingers in the water and stroke them after scrubbing my hands)? <Not a good idea... too likely to scratch them, wipe off necessary body slime, perhaps introduce pollution...> 5.How often should I clean the cage? <Reading...> 6.Can I put in my really small turtle(about 2" to 2 1/2" from tip of head to tip of tail) with them in their cage, or will my turtle attack the guppies(or vice versa)? <and more reading...> 7.According to the pictures, is my turtle a female or male? If you can answer these questions, that would be awesome. Thanks in advance! From Janny P.S. Sorry for the bad quality of the pictures. <Please, learn to/use the search tool, indices on WWM ahead of writing us... What you ask, and much more, need to know is already posted/archived for you/all's use. Bob Fenner>

 I mportant question  3/14/09
Hi,
I got two baby turtles from a street vendor while shopping on canal street. I did a lot of research on them when I got home and I believe them to be RES turtles. I was sure to care for them at first I put them in a tank with a couple o finches of bottled warm water and a big floating rock.
I poured some food in. They refuse to eat the turtle food and now one of the turtles has swollen eyes and is breathing with an open mouth. I think they may be too cold with no heating lamp so I am going to the pet store now. I am afraid the one turtle will die and I don't know what to do to keep him alive he looks very stressed and close to death he barely is moving besides his mouth and his eyes are so swollen he cant see. the other turtle is much better looking swimming and looking healthy,
HELP!!!
-Erin
<Greetings. Red-ear Sliders are difficult and expensive to maintain, and buying them from a street vendor wasn't the best idea you've had this year.
But saying that, if you're prepared to buy the equipment required, and to take the sick turtles to the vet, not all is lost. The turtle with the swollen eye is very sick and in pain; see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turteyedisart.htm
Respiratory tract infections are common when they are kept badly, and could easily explain the open mouth behaviour:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtrespart.htm
A vet can treat both conditions; but without veterinary assistance, the turtle will die a miserable death. You also need to review maintenance. You can't keep these animals in bowls or small tanks, and they absolutely must have filtration, heating, and a source of UV-B light. Expect to pay at least $100 for all these bits and pieces. On the upside, kept properly, these animals are hardy, fun and quite long lived. There's a great summary here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm
Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Important question  3/14/09
Neale,
Thanks for your help. I went to Petco today and got a bigger tank with a UVB clamp lamp and some meal worms which they recommended. To try feeding to the turtles.
<These may be eaten, but wouldn't be my first choice. Turtles are HERBIVORES in the wild, so like sheep and giraffes, most of their food is green and leafy. Juveniles, it's about 50/50 animal protein and plant material, but for adults, more like 75% of the diet is greens. Clumps of cheap aquarium plants (Elodea, Canadian pondweed) last a week or two, and do the trick very well. Provide earthworms or small pieces of seafood once or twice a week, or even the odd mealworm, and that's it. Feeding the, at
least, is cheap and easy. The problem with mealworms is they drown in water, and then the turtles ignore them, and you're stuck with water pollution. Pointless really. Not sure why PetCo thought they would help?>
I know it wasn't the best ideas to get the turtles in the first place but I knew they would die sitting on the street corner in the freezing cold at least if we took them they had a chance.
<Yes and no. The problem with "mercy buying" is you create a market, so the guy selling them goes round to his supplier, and orders some more.>
Do you know of anywhere a little cheaper then Petco I can order more accessories from?
<Depends where you are. I'm in the UK, so my knowledge of the market is biased in that direction! Second hand stuff is worth considering: Craig's List and the like. Many online pet forums also have buy, sell, swap sections. Darrel's article pretty well sums up the bits you can economise on, and the bits you can't. Heat, water changes, and UV-B are the essentials.>
I will need to order a better heating device then just the lamp.
<If money is tight, take care to get a heater they won't break! Seriously, my turtles broke 2 glass heaters in a row before I got the hint. Look for the ones with the plastic guard that goes on the outside, so that the turtles can't knock the heater off the wall of the tank, cracking it if it hits the bottom too hard. Fish shops should have these in stock. They're no more expensive than the regular kind of heater. In the UK for example, the 'Superfish Aquarium Heater' brand comes with a black plastic guard as standard. Even better are heaters that go underneath the tank. Reptile shops can kit you out with this kind of stuff.>
I am calling the vet to make an appointment to have them both checked out.
<Cool. Treatment shouldn't be expensive, and your vet may be able to put you in touch with reptile clubs or animal welfare trusts in the area that can help out.>
thanks !
<Once settled in, these are fab animals to keep. They can become very tame.
But getting started is the tricky bit, but it looks like you're making all the right decisions. Good luck, Neale.>

New Red eared sliders   1/11/09
Hello,
<Hiya Najah, Darrel here tonight>
This Christmas my dad was given five Red Eared Sliders and gave them to my son for Christmas.
<Generally speaking, I discourage people from giving live animals as gifts, especially unexpected ones -- if the receiver isn't a fan of that animal, he or she only inherits an unwanted responsibility -- Just mentioning that....>
The family loves the new addition --
<But in this case, all works out!!!! Yaaaaaaay!>
-- but I am becoming worried. I have had them for about a week now and I haven't seen any poop. They all appear to be healthy.
<It may take a while for their digestive systems to get into gear, Najah. This by itself isn't worrisome.>
All but one are scared of us.
<Again, nothing unusual. It takes all of them a while to adjust and even then one of the nice things about these guys is they have individual personalities. Some are friendly and others may well be a bit standoffish all the time. >
They generally hide when I come near to the tank. I think that the car ride from Philly to DC may have shaken them a little.
<I can't say as I blame, Najah -- I took a train from DC to Philly over 18 years ago and I'm still shaken up by it. Rearranging anyone's whole world stresses them and it takes them a while to acclimate.>
I am having a hard time feeding them lettuce, but they seem to really like carrots. I've read some info sites that says to feed them carrots often is ok and others say to use carrots moderately, which one is true?
<Well, to be candid, you won't find many Red Eared Sliders eating carrots in the wild. Any site stating that the Pseudemys need a vegetarian diet are far better than the ones that claim they eat fish and meats ... but still, I can't see how someone can expect that foods they buy at their local Kroger are suitable for turtles.>
<I've said this before and I'll say it again: Koi Pellets! Cheap, easily found at virtually any pet store, 99.5% vegetable matter and -- A COMPLETE DIET for Sliders and their families. I use Kay-Tee brand myself and I raise them from hatchlings all the way up to breeding adults on just that, with a very occasional (once a month) Earthworm tossed in just for variety.
Tetra's Repto-Min food sticks are good too. They're virtually identical in makeup to the Koi pellets and a bit more expensive, but if it makes you feel better feeding your turtles something labeled as turtle food, this is the stuff.>
<This is a link to a wonderfully written article covering all the basics of Slider care in captivity. Please compare your situation against the guidelines... and remember, Turtles don't need very much at all, but they absolutely NEED what they need.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
Thanks for your help.
<You're welcome, Najah -- and we're glad to have you in our world. Enjoy>

Question about "rescued" RES 9/13/08
My daughter was given a RES and a smaller (possibly painted turtle or another type of slider with a red-orange plastron?
<Quite possibly another species, but they're all very similar in terms of care, and most species get to around 20-30 cm in length, so count as quite sizeable animals.>
Really looks like the slider except for the markings) from a friend of hers. They had been ?rescued? from a drying up pond by her father. I admit I am not much of a reptile person, but they had about 8 turtles in a 10 gallon tank (stupid!) and I knew enough to want to help a couple of them. They had them for about a month. I would like to know whether it is best to let them go somewhere? or how long is too long in captivity before they really should be kept.
<Releasing unidentified animals into the wild is never a good idea, and quite possibly illegal. The issues are multiple. For a start, these animals may have lost the instincts that would allow them to find food, escape from predators, and plan for winter. Then there's also the issue of what impact they would have on the local wildlife. While these turtles may be native to your country, they might not be native to your region, or to the particular lake or river that you'd take them to. Many amphibians deliberately seek out waters that don't have certain animals -- including turtles -- as being safer places to lay their eggs. Acts of human kindness can actually end up being disastrous in the natural world: A few decades ago some Animal Rights people released Mink from a fur farm in England, and since that time the Mink have prospered and systematically wiped out lots of native water mammals, particularly Voles. So, if you decide against keeping these animals, instead contact a local turtle rescue charity. There are many of them in the US and UK and likely elsewhere. Do a Google search for "turtle rescue" and you'll get a bunch.>
Please help me, I am really torn. The bigger RES paces back and forth along the inside of the tank for most of the day ?I am going to guess he is older. His shell is about 3 ½ inches long and the smaller is only about 2 ½ inches long.
<He's still a youngster! Before deciding to keep these animals, it's a good idea to pull out a side plate from a cupboard (something bigger than a saucer but smaller than a dinner plate). That's how big the average slider gets. Realistically, they need tanks around the 150 litre/30 gallon size. While rewarding pets in many ways, when turtles get sick they're expensive to treat. So you need to invest a certain amount of money up front in terms of heating, UV-B light (unless the turtles live outdoors), and filtration. On the other hand, diet is simple and cheaper than most folks realise: they don't need turtle food much, but rather greens of all sorts, but especially things like cheap aquarium plants. Stick a bunch of Elodea in the tank, and that's their food for a week!>
They are doing well? the smaller one basks a lot and seems really content but I am not so sure about the larger (older?) one. If we need to keep these little guys I need to be purchasing a 55 gallon tank at least? and that means an upgrade in filter as well (of course).
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/redearsliders.htm
Once you've got the kit, these animals are actually very easy to look after. They're fun to watch, and can become very tame. The main problems people make are to give them the wrong food, not enough warmth, and no source of UV-B light. None of these things is difficult or expensive to supply (by pet standards, anyway) and once taken care of, these turtles will thrive. But do always train your children to wash their hands after handling them: turtle tanks, like fish tanks, can culture Salmonella bacteria. The risk of serious harm is small, but it's a good habit (and good advice) to treat *any* animal as a potential source of infection and have the child wash up afterwards.>
Before making this kind of commitment I need to know what is best for the
turtles? should they stay or should they go?
<It's your call. On the plus side, learning the responsibilities of caring for animals, plus learning about basic biology, are useful things for any child. I say that as someone who's been a biology teacher in a girls' school and often observed the difference between those girls who are comfortable around animals and aware of how they work, and those girls who know nothing more than TV and computer games. Learning to care for animals and to take care of their needs are life skills that become essential through their adult lives, whether at work or in their own families. But on the other hand, reptiles generally require a certain amount of effort to stay healthy, and some expenses when setting up their enclosure can't be neglected. Few reptiles genuinely like to be petted or handled, so these aren't animals for children that want something to play with. While not expensive pets by any means, they are long lived and consequently require a commitment from their owners likely to last 10+ years.>
And if they were to go ?where should they be released?
<See above; contact a turtle rescue.>
I am ready to do whatever needs to be done. I have been doing lots of reading and research to find out exactly what they need to be happy and live a long time, but do NOT want to do the wrong thing. Please help!
<I hope this helps. These are great animals and lots of fun, but as a parent you want to be cognizant of the demands they place on you relative to how much responsibility you can leave on your child's shoulders.>
G Nelson
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Question about "rescued" RES 9/13/08
I just wanted to than you so very much.
<You are most welcome.>
I believe we will take them on...I may just be a reptile person after all!
<Ah! Before you know it there'll be a Boa in the bedroom and an Alligator in the kitchen! But seriously, yes, reptiles are fascinating animals, and once you start learning about them, they can become a very enlightening hobby.>
I just wanted to make sure that was the right thing to do...and I really believe it is. We are going to get our 55 gallon tank and 100 gallon filter this weekend!
<Sounds great. Rather than worrying about the "100 gallon filter" rating (which is often a bit of marketing rather than based on anything sensible) do review the TURNOVER. This is how much water passes through the filter. Turtles will do best with filters that turnover at least 6 times the volume of the tank per hour. That's about 300 gallons per hour in your case. The minimum would be 4 times the volume of the tank, i.e., around 200 gallons per hour. You'll find these numbers of the box and/or the pump. Don't waste your time with "hang on the back" things; these filters lack the oomph to really keep the water clean. Turtles are very messy, in particular when they're moulting, and you have bits of skin floating about. So if you want a nice clean tank, invest in the filter. I'd recommend an external canister filter, but an internal canister filter would be just as good. The argument between them comes down to internal filters being more expensive in terms of turnover but a bit easier in terms of maintenance. If you're on a budget, an undergravel filter with a couple of powerheads would be a perfectly serviceable alternative.>
I just needed some info from someone who really knew what they were talking about! ;) (Oh, and I am so impressed at how my girls will ask to hold the turtles...and just reach right in there and pick them up! These can't possibly be my daughters!! They know very well about Salmonella and how it can make you sick. They are great teachers for their friends!)
<Absolutely! This is the best way for kids to learn science -- to actually do it! When science is fun, they absorb the stuff like sponges tank in water. For someone like me, who teaches science, this is wonderful to watch and really helps kids to make the leap from simply appreciating the natural world to truly understanding it.>
-Thanks Again, Genny
<Good luck, Neale.>

I luved ur site!, RES gen. husbandry    9/6/08
Hi, Everyone
<Hello,>
I have a few Questions. But first let me tell you a little bit about me. I luv turtles (manly red eared sliders) , I had 2 but Just 2 days ago one died and I don't know why. For the longest time he would just float, he could not swim down, but he floated with a slant I did not think much of it until I found out he was dead. And the one that's still alive was 2 inches bigger than the little 1 that died. And I am 13.
<Turtles are difficult, expensive pets to keep. They need a number of things to survive. So make sure you have all these things: A big tank (20 gallons for babies, but much more for adults. They also need warmth, from a heater of some kind. The water temperature must be 18-25 degrees C all year around. They need a basking spot on dry land under a UV-B lamp. Without this they cannot grow properly. They need a filter, to keep the water clean. Be under no illusions here: the correct set up for these turtles will cost $100-200. If you can't budget that, then please, return the remaining turtle before it dies. Part of being an "animal lover" is knowing when you can't keep that animal. Animals can't make allowances because you like them; they have a bunch of demands that absolutely must be met. If you don't do that, they'll die. It doesn't matter whether it's a turtle or an elephant.>
#1. was he sick? #2. did the big one beat him up?
<No.>
These questions are not related.
#1. what size tank should I have for when he grows to be an adult?
<20 gallons for a baby, at least twice that for an adult. Adults are almost the size of dinner plates, easily 8 inches across the shell.>
#2. if when I get a new turtle and they lay eggs in the water do I leave them or take them out?
<The eggs rot under water. If you have a female turtle, you need to provide it with a sandy box to put its eggs in. Sometimes females become "egg bound" if they can't lay their eggs, and this leads to a painful death without surgery done by a vet.>
#3. how many eggs does a female lay?
<Couple of dozen, maybe more. Varies.>
Thank Everyone, Ty
<Please do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebindex/RESCareBarton.htm
And follow through the linked articles at the top of the page. If you're serious about keeping these animals, buy or borrow a book about them too.
Cheers, Neale.>

Red Eared Slider Turtles, reading  -09/03/08
Hi, I have recently acquired two baby RES, they are both about an inch and a half long. They are in a ten gallon tank with a wet and dry area and a 75 watt heat lamp over it. Is this adequate?
<Mmm>
One of the turtles spends absolutely all of its time in the water; it will only briefly stick its head out of the water on the edge of the dry area. The other spends all of its time basking in the dry area. Should I be worried about them not spending time in both environments?
<Not unless there is apparent trouble...>
And if so what can I do to get them to go in both? Recently the turtle that spends all of its time in the basking area has not been opening its eyes.
<Like this>
It does every once in a while but very, very rarely, not even when I place it in the water and it swims around. Should I be worried about this? One last question, how often should I be cleaning out the tank? Any help is much appreciated.
<... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Red ear slider turtles, gen. and esp. fdg.    8/14/08
Hi!
<Hiya!!>
I have 2 red ear sliders--they are both about 4 inches, in length (this is shell length, and shells are thick). We got them in April of 2007, and they were quarter size, at that time. They are best friends, we have no problems.
<No jobs, school, property taxes OR alligators trying to eat them (I have all the above) -- they have easy lives!>
My question is I think I have one female, and one male? One has longer tail, the other has shorter, stubbier tail. Claws look to be about the same size. They won't cooperate long enough for me to check under tails. They have started to do the "mating dance" (I think). They get nose to nose and one will start fanning the face. Just for a few minutes, and then they continue on their way. They are only in a 10 gallon aquarium with the lighting, the basking rocks, and gravel, etc. We live in Buffalo, and on nice warm days, I fill up the baby pool outside with driftwood, and let them hang there for a few hours. With supervision, due to cats and kids in the neighborhood.
<I was born in Niagara Falls. Nice summers!>
Since they are only about 1 1/2 yrs old, isn't it too soon for them to breed?
<It's not the age, it's the size. Although 1 1/2 years is early, 4 inches is barely about the size that males start to mature, so while it's not likely, it's POSSIBLE ... and the fanning behavior is typical male slider courting behavior ... so if you're not there yet, you're getting close>
How old are red ear sliders before they breed, and do I have a male and female, since too, they are about the same size? We bought them together in Myrtle Beach. Maybe female isn't mature in size yet?
<That is correct. The male matures at a smaller size while the female keeps growing and gets bigger before she's mature. The male will get the nice, long nails (a girl I know sites that as one more reason that life just isn't fair). Once the male starts courting behavior this just "bugs" the female for a few more years because she's not interested yet,>
They are extremely happy all the time, love to eat, people and kid friendly, love to greet people as soon as anyone walks into the room.
<Really? That Warner Brother's Dancing Michigan J Frog comes to mind>
They'll come a running to side of the tank, when they spot anyone. Oh, one thing I noticed (from having turtles when we were kids), is they LOVE raw hamburger, and RAW turkey burger. We feed them that off our fingers, (so they are not being overfed, and leaving raw burger in they're tank), but every so often they grab the finger and OUCH!!
<You deserve to hurt for that. No. NO.... NOOOOOOOOOOOO! No Hamburger!! No Turkey!! No Hotdogs, chicken, pot pies, pork chops, steak, Cheese Doodles or ANY other people food. PERIOD!! And no wine or cocktails either (they have no self control!)>
<Diet --- bad diet and overfeeding are the #1 health problems in turtles and most pets -- and what you're feeding them isn't good for them, OK? Koi Pellets, Repto-min food sticks (exactly the same as the koi pellets only more expensive) and a rare and occasional earthworm>
They pinch and pinch hard.
<Another reason not to do that. It won't be long before that pinch becomes a skin break and then it's tetanus shots and antibacterial ... for them -- humans can be infectious to reptiles>
Need too know, though, if I should start a nesting area, or anything. All we are seeing at this time is we think the "mating dance". Could you let me know?
<She needs to be around 5 inches minimum straight carapace length before she's even remotely ready ... so.... not yet.>
<BUT FIX THE DIET IMMEDIATELY PLEASE!!!!>
Thanks kindly----VaLinda
<Pretty name!!!!!>
<Darrel>
<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Re: Red ear slider turtles - diet    8/16/08
Thank you for getting back to me so soon.
<Happy to do it!>
Glad to hear its a little early for baby turtle making too. Not ready for that.
<I feel the same way about my kids.>
Thanks too, for the input on no raw meats. It wasn't their main diet though, they mainly eat variety of turtle foods. It was just a treat here and there for them. I should of specified that. But, I'll make sure no more raw meats.
<The problem is that they can "fixate" on something like that and then refuse to eat the balanced diet and then you're in for problems.>
They will be sad, though:(
<They'll get over it -- and they'll be healthier, too. Now make sure they have proper temperature gradients and UV A&B lighting:)>
Thanks again for your great advice, I'll keep making sure I keep well read on your columns.
<We respond well praise!!!! Thank YOU!!!!>
Thanks again--VaLinda
<Darrel>

Re: Quick Question About Turtles and One Comment  05/19/08 Sorry the pictures didn't come through - I'll send as files. Thanks for your quick response. Jen <Hello Jen. They all look happy and healthy! Nice set up. Cheers, Neale.>

I need your help! RES care, humanity  3/30/08
Ok, I need some help convincing my mom that my red eared slider turtle is important enough to have all of the right habitat stuff. I don't want my little Jimmy-Hendrix to die!!!
<As always review water quality, diet, and basking environment before panicking. Almost all reptile deaths come down to not observing these rules. RESs need a large aquarium with a filter (certainly no less than 30 gallons for an adult, plus a filter with a turnover of not less than 4, and ideally 6, times the volume of the aquarium in gallons per hour). The diet should be 50% green foods when young, and 75% green foods once more than half grown. Finally, these reptiles MUST have a UV-B source to bask under. The tube or lamp WILL need to be replaced periodically; check with the manufacturer on the recommended interval, but typically its something like once a year.>
My turtle is only one and a half inches both long and wide, I have a 10 gallon tank, two basking spots, some Zoo-Med Reptisafe Water Conditioner, Zoo-Med Turtle Treats, Zoo-Med Aquatic Turtle Food.
<Too small, wrong food.>
I also have another kind of food witch he seems to like better, it's called Tetrafauna ReptoMin, is that as good for him as the Zoo-Med stuff?
<Neither is what you need. These turtles are HERBIVORES, like sheep and cows. They want lots of plants to eat. Pellets can be used once or twice a week. Suggested plant foods include Elodea (pondweed) and curly (not iceberg or red) lettuce.>
This is all that I have for him, no special lights or anything. Are those necessary?
<Yes.>
Anyway, my question is what other stuff do I need, habitat wise, to keep my little Jimmy-Hendrix healthy?
<A heater is also important unless you live somewhere it rarely gets below 18C/65F. Because these reptiles are super-destructive, get a heater with a plastic guard. Over here in England these are standard on many of them anyway. When I kept turtles, it seemed to me I was replacing the heater once a year!>
And do I need to add anything to his diet besides the turtle pellets and treats?
<Yes.>
I need you guys to help me prove to my mom that turtles are important enough to spend a few extra bucks on. So please help me be a good turtle owner/pal.
<Start by telling your Mom you need a book. There are plenty at the library, book shop or pet store. Read, my friend, so that you can do the right thing. These turtles get VERY BIG, VERY QUICKLY, so be forewarned! Cheers, Neale.>

A gift turtle, RES gen. care   8/10/07
Hello crew,
<Hiya right back! Darrel here>
Me and my wife just took ownership of a little Red Eared Slider. It was given to us in a little plastic container and we were instructed all we had to do was drop in a little turtle food pellets and he's fine...
<This person didn't have a bridge for sale did they?>
So we agree to take care of her. After visiting 2 different pet shops is when we found out that they were illegal
<They're not terribly illegal -- they're fine to have for educational purposes and as far as I can see, you're getting an education.>
.... and was not being properly taken care of. So we purchased a 10 gallon tank, a 10 watt heat light, a UVB light, a water filter and a floating log for her. We feed her the little turtle pellets and tried lettuce, she only likes the lettuce. What else do you recommend to feed this small Red Eared Slider? I use Koi Pellets and/or Repto-Min food sticks. The koi pellets are cheap and a balanced diet that contains a lot of vegetable matter -- perfectly good basic diet. The Repto-Min is a bit pricey, but at least you can buy it in small containers. That's just about IT in the food department. Maybe an occasional earthworm for a "treat" but you're a long way from worrying about that right now. Here's a link about general care
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
We noticed that through out the day she has been keeping her eyes closed a lot. We never have taken care of a turtle before, so we were not sure if she they were ALWAYS that tired or if she was sick? Then yesterday night we notice little white stuff between her eyes, I know it has to be an infection so, how do we cure that? And so far what I have read from the WWW it has to do with the water. But we bought a filter, and clean out the "poop" every time, and I mean we keep it clean and about 75 - 76 degrees, are we missing something?
<The most important thing right now is to make sure that she can get warm and dry. The eye infection almost always comes from being too cold and too damp for too long. A week of basking under the UV lamp combined with an ordinary bulb for heat (it's in the link) may snap her right out of it. If not, write back and we'll go into more detail>
Thank you for your help and by the I LOVE this website and what you guys are doing.
<Thank you -- we kinda like it too!>

Tell me everything you know about red eye sliders...   8/9/07
Hi I just purchased two red eye sliders. they are about an inch and a half long. I have lots of questions. How long does it take for them the grow. Also how do I ask you questions on the forums. thank you.
<Seek and ye shall find. Go to this page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm and then scroll down to the "turtles" section. Lots of stuff there. You should probably start off with "Red Ear Slider Care" by Gage Harford and "The Care and Keeping of the Red Eared Slider" by Darrel Barton. As for the Forum, go to http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ and then Register, and then follow the instructions. Cheers, Neale>

Re: Tell me everything you know about red eye sliders...  8/10/07
Hi I was just wondering under what forum do I ask post questions regarding my red eye sliders? They are very small and I need lots of questions answered. You already gave me the web site page but I cant seemed to find the forum for turtles. Thanks again Christine
<Hello Christine. There is no specific sub-forum for turtles/terrapins. But it's hard to imagine you can't find the information you need in the turtle articles at the main web site. Pretty well everything is covered there. What size tank they need, what food is best, why they need UV lighting, what temperature to keep them at, etc. etc. Also, use the "Search" box on Wet Web Media to find information. It's a standard Google search box. But if there's something really obscure you can't find information on, feel free to send a message. Cheers, Neale>

Red-Ear Slider How To's   5/23/07
Hello,
<hello, Samantha & welcome!>
I am one of the many who purchased a couple of red-ear sliders to only find out that it is illegal to buy/sell these under 4 inches.  Mine are the about 2 inches long, if that.  I bought them in very poor conditions and got home and purchased them a 10 gallon tank with rock substrate, a floating basking rock, a reptile filter that hangs off the side of the tank, and a 50-watt basking light that gives UVA rays.  
<You're doing all the right things!>
They love the basking rock and hang out there just about all day.  Their eyes are a little puffy and from what I read I'm sure it is because of malnutrition.
<Malnutrition and generally bad conditions, yes>
One is slightly smaller than the other,  and the bigger one is more aggressive, always crawling over the other.
<that's not aggression, that's just activity.>
I have fed them some Turtle Treats Krill, chicken, beef, tomato, they don't eat the romaine lettuce.  I am looking for some how-to's in my situation.  What should I feed these turtles at this age?  Everything I read seems to be for when the turtles are a bit older.  
<Not everything on that list is of any value to them, so let's simplify the menu first.  Please get a small package of Koi pellets from your local pet shop.  They usually come in large or small pellets and try to get the small size if you can.  An alternative is Reptomin feeding sticks by Tetra.  It's basically the same as the koi pellets, just a lot more expensive.  On the plus side, you can buy it in small size containers.   At feeding time, offer about 8 or 10 pellets floating in the water and let them eat as much as they want and then scoop out the remaining pellets after they lose interest - this will help keep their water clean and that food is all they need to eat.  Period.  I raise hatchlings to adult breeders on just that!>
However, the smaller one is the only one that eats. But I can't get the bigger one to eat.  It seems as though he is always more concerned about trying to get out of the tank or swimming away to notice there is food there.
<You don't say how long you've had them or how long the big one has gone without food, so it's hard to say.  But for now, if he's active and otherwise seems healthy, let's give him a little longer to get hungry.>  
The bigger one that doesn't eat is always under the light, and he does get in the water sometimes.
<That's what we want!  He chooses his environment as he sees fit -- that's perfect>
My light is UVA, do I need a UVB?
<Yes, they need both UVA & UVB so maybe you can add a fluorescent fixture over the tank with a good quality reptile bulb.  But they are very tolerant of lighting issues so don't fret over that at the moment>
Also, is it okay to leave on all day?  I have been keeping it on about six hours a day.  Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
<Try leaving the lamp on 12 hours a day for now.  Monitor their eyes for puffiness, they noses for bubbles, their shells should be hard like fingernails and they should be active.  Then let's wait another week or so to see if the big guy eats.>
Thank you!
<You're being a great Turtle Mom, Samantha!  Good work!>

Turtle, RES Care  – 5/14/07
Hello: My name is Rachel. Our neighbor found a wild, very small RES trucking down the road here last summer and brought it to our house and left it. At first I
really didn't want him but I decided to keep him and give it a whirl. After a year of sickness, bad advice and wrong setups, my husband and I have finally found the setup that appears to make this little guy happy (this is the 3rd setup). We have him in a 40 gallon aquarium with a 305 Fluval canister filter, small river rock and a log with a basking lamp and a water heater.  I have the temp set for 80 degrees but it is usually around 77 degrees.  The water is about 8 inches deep. He is very active and begs for food all the time. We have a calcium block floating in the tank and he chases it and bites it.  This seems to be a favorite past time. He spends much of his time on his log basking.  Sometimes he's all tucked in and other times
he will have one or both of his rear legs sticking straight out.
We have grown to love him and consider him a life long pet.
Here's what my questions are:
Does the setup sound okay? I've read conflicting articles about whether or not RES's should have access to small gravel. I read a few weeks ago that they need to ingest small rocks for health.  Is this true?
<Sand or gravel is not required for health reasons.>
We had much trouble with the local pet stores telling us the wrong things.  
I finally just did a mix and seem to have found the right thing.
What types of veggies and fruit should I feed him?
< Kale and spinach are best.>
I've tried butter lettuce, cucumber and peeled grapes. He likes the grapes but everything else he hates. Right now he eats pretty exclusively pellet food with some occasional crickets. He does not eat feeder fish.  I currently have three very lucky feeder fish living the high life.
Should he have a companion and if so, do they need a larger aquarium for a while?
< Your male RES will not get lonely so a tankmate is not recommended.>
Our turtle is only about 4-5 inches across the widest part of his shell, so he's pretty little yet. I'm pretty sure he/she is a he. He is very aggressive when eating live crickets and he has very long claws.  I've also occasionally seen what appears to be male genitalia from his upper tail region. Should we trim his claws?
< I would recommend leaving them alone.>
His shell is peeling alot. Is this normal?
< Young growing turtles seem to shed alot. As he gets older and starts eating more vegetable matter and less protein his growth rate and sheds should start to slow down.>
The shell underneath appears to be healthy. We were having alot of shell problems with him but we've gotten all that cleared up. He was having shell problems when the neighbor brought him to us. It took me a while to figure it out because I was frankly so inexperienced.
I had never even seen a turtle except in the zoo.  I washed his shell in Betadine scrub (being careful not to get it in his eyes/mouth), soaked him in sulfa dip and then coated his spots with iodine. I made a little newspaper nest for him in a little tub and would put him in it for a few days.  Then I'd allow him back in his enclosure.  He would usually eat well right away.  It took a while and alot of Betadine washes, etc., but it seems that all the infections he had on his shell cleared up.  I'm not sure if I used all the right stuff, but it worked.
His shell hardly peeled at all up until about 2-3 months ago when we finally got his problems cleared up and got him into a setup that he likes.
We are having problems with green algae. My husband cleans the tank at least once per week, but we still can't seem to combat this. What should we do for this? I really prefer not to use chemicals. His tank is not directly in front of a window.
< Algae is a result of too much nitrogenous wastes in the water. Feed the turtle in another container that can be easily cleaned out. Turtles are messy eaters and their fecal matter with foul a tank very quickly. When they are done eating they will soon defecate. Put the turtle back in the main tank and dispose of the dirty water. The filter will require cleaning more often too.>
What about hibernation? Are you supposed to allow them to go into hibernation at certain times of the year? If so, how do you do this?
< I would not recommend hibernation unless you are serious about breeding turtles. They don't need it and it can be dangerous to the turtle if he is not properly prepared.>
What about vitamins? I know they need them, but by what source?
< If you feed a varied diet with lots of veggies then vitamin supplements are not needed. I might try a piece of cuttlebone to supply some calcium and to allow the turtle to sharpen his beak.>
Shell sprays, powder, food variety?
< A varied diet with pellets, insects, worms and some veggies will be all that he needs.> I've been using shell spray but probably not enough.
< Shell sprays are not needed.>
How many hours per day should we keep the basking lamp on and what wattage should it be?
< The basking lights should be on during normal daylight hours, 10-12 hours a day should be all that is needed. The lamp needs to be hot enough to get the basking site up to at least 85 F. If the area is too cool then move the source closer or get a bigger heat source.>  
I believe the one that's in his tank is a 65 watt.
Thanks for answering all these questions for us. We and our turtle really appreciate it. Rachel
< The tank lights needs to be replaced every year to keep the UVB and UVA rays within the proper lighting spectrum. These are separate from the basking light.-Chuck>