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FAQs About Red Ear Slider Turtles 2

I need your help! RES care, humanity 3/30/08
Ok, I need some help convincing my mom that my red eared slider turtle is important enough to have all of the right habitat stuff. I don't want my little Jimmy-Hendrix to die!!!
<As always review water quality, diet, and basking environment before panicking. Almost all reptile deaths come down to not observing these rules. RESs need a large aquarium with a filter (certainly no less than 30 gallons for an adult, plus a filter with a turnover of not less than 4, and ideally 6, times the volume of the aquarium in gallons per hour). The diet should be 50% green foods when young, and 75% green foods once more than half grown. Finally, these reptiles MUST have a UV-B source to bask under. The tube or lamp WILL need to be replaced periodically; check with the manufacturer on the recommended interval, but typically its something like once a year.>
My turtle is only one and a half inches both long and wide, I have a 10 gallon tank, two basking spots, some Zoo-Med Reptisafe Water Conditioner, Zoo-Med Turtle Treats, Zoo-Med Aquatic Turtle Food.
<Too small, wrong food.>
I also have another kind of food witch he seems to like better, it's called Tetrafauna ReptoMin, is that as good for him as the Zoo-Med stuff?
<Neither is what you need. These turtles are HERBIVORES, like sheep and cows. They want lots of plants to eat. Pellets can be used once or twice a week. Suggested plant foods include Elodea (pondweed) and curly (not iceberg or red) lettuce.>
This is all that I have for him, no special lights or anything. Are those necessary?
<Yes.>
Anyway, my question is what other stuff do I need, habitat wise, to keep my little Jimmy-Hendrix healthy?
<A heater is also important unless you live somewhere it rarely gets below 18C/65F. Because these reptiles are super-destructive, get a heater with a plastic guard. Over here in England these are standard on many of them anyway. When I kept turtles, it seemed to me I was replacing the heater once a year!>
And do I need to add anything to his diet besides the turtle pellets and treats?
<Yes.>
I need you guys to help me prove to my mom that turtles are important enough to spend a few extra bucks on. So please help me be a good turtle owner/pal.
<Start by telling your Mom you need a book. There are plenty at the library, book shop or pet store. Read, my friend, so that you can do the right thing. These turtles get VERY BIG, VERY QUICKLY, so be forewarned! Cheers, Neale.>

A gift turtle, RES gen. care 8/10/07
Hello crew,
<Hiya right back! Darrel here>
Me and my wife just took ownership of a little Red Eared Slider. It was given to us in a little plastic container and we were instructed all we had to do was drop in a little turtle food pellets and he's fine...
<This person didn't have a bridge for sale did they?>
So we agree to take care of her. After visiting 2 different pet shops is when we found out that they were illegal
<They're not terribly illegal -- they're fine to have for educational purposes and as far as I can see, you're getting an education.>
.... and was not being properly taken care of. So we purchased a 10 gallon tank, a 10 watt heat light, a UVB light, a water filter and a floating log for her. We feed her the little turtle pellets and tried lettuce, she only likes the lettuce. What else do you recommend to feed this small Red Eared Slider? I use Koi Pellets and/or Repto-Min food sticks. The koi pellets are cheap and a balanced diet that contains a lot of vegetable matter -- perfectly good basic diet. The Repto-Min is a bit pricey, but at least you can buy it in small containers. That's just about IT in the food department. Maybe an occasional earthworm for a "treat" but you're a long way from worrying about that right now. Here's a link about general care
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>
We noticed that through out the day she has been keeping her eyes closed a lot. We never have taken care of a turtle before, so we were not sure if she they were ALWAYS that tired or if she was sick? Then yesterday night we notice little white stuff between her eyes, I know it has to be an infection so, how do we cure that? And so far what I have read from the WWW it has to do with the water. But we bought a filter, and clean out the "poop" every time, and I mean we keep it clean and about 75 - 76 degrees, are we missing something?
<The most important thing right now is to make sure that she can get warm and dry. The eye infection almost always comes from being too cold and too damp for too long. A week of basking under the UV lamp combined with an ordinary bulb for heat (it's in the link) may snap her right out of it. If not, write back and we'll go into more detail>
Thank you for your help and by the I LOVE this website and what you guys are doing.
<Thank you -- we kinda like it too!>

Tell me everything you know about red eye sliders... 8/9/07
Hi I just purchased two red eye sliders. they are about an inch and a half long. I have lots of questions. How long does it take for them the grow. Also how do I ask you questions on the forums. thank you.
<Seek and ye shall find. Go to this page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm and then scroll down to the "turtles" section. Lots of stuff there. You should probably start off with "Red Ear Slider Care" by Gage Harford and "The Care and Keeping of the Red Eared Slider" by Darrel Barton. As for the Forum, go to http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ and then Register, and then follow the instructions. Cheers, Neale>

Re: Tell me everything you know about red eye sliders... 8/10/07
Hi I was just wondering under what forum do I ask post questions regarding my red eye sliders? They are very small and I need lots of questions answered. You already gave me the web site page but I cant seemed to find the forum for turtles. Thanks again Christine
<Hello Christine. There is no specific sub-forum for turtles/terrapins. But it's hard to imagine you can't find the information you need in the turtle articles at the main web site. Pretty well everything is covered there. What size tank they need, what food is best, why they need UV lighting, what temperature to keep them at, etc. etc. Also, use the "Search" box on Wet Web Media to find information. It's a standard Google search box. But if there's something really obscure you can't find information on, feel free to send a message. Cheers, Neale>

Red-Ear Slider How To's 5/23/07
Hello,
<hello, Samantha & welcome!>
I am one of the many who purchased a couple of red-ear sliders to only find out that it is illegal to buy/sell these under 4 inches.  Mine are the about 2 inches long, if that.  I bought them in very poor conditions and got home and purchased them a 10 gallon tank with rock substrate, a floating basking rock, a reptile filter that hangs off the side of the tank, and a 50-watt basking light that gives UVA rays.
<You're doing all the right things!>
They love the basking rock and hang out there just about all day.  Their eyes are a little puffy and from what I read I'm sure it is because of malnutrition.
<Malnutrition and generally bad conditions, yes>
One is slightly smaller than the other,  and the bigger one is more aggressive, always crawling over the other.
<that's not aggression, that's just activity.>
I have fed them some Turtle Treats Krill, chicken, beef, tomato, they don't eat the romaine lettuce.  I am looking for some how-to's in my situation.  What should I feed these turtles at this age?  Everything I read seems to be for when the turtles are a bit older.
<Not everything on that list is of any value to them, so let's simplify the menu first.  Please get a small package of Koi pellets from your local pet shop.  They usually come in large or small pellets and try to get the small size if you can.  An alternative is Reptomin feeding sticks by Tetra.  It's basically the same as the koi pellets, just a lot more expensive.  On the plus side, you can buy it in small size containers.   At feeding time, offer about 8 or 10 pellets floating in the water and let them eat as much as they want and then scoop out the remaining pellets after they lose interest - this will help keep their water clean and that food is all they need to eat.  Period.  I raise hatchlings to adult breeders on just that!>
However, the smaller one is the only one that eats. But I can't get the bigger one to eat.  It seems as though he is always more concerned about trying to get out of the tank or swimming away to notice there is food there.
<You don't say how long you've had them or how long the big one has gone without food, so it's hard to say.  But for now, if he's active and otherwise seems healthy, let's give him a little longer to get hungry.>
The bigger one that doesn't eat is always under the light, and he does get in the water sometimes.
<That's what we want!  He chooses his environment as he sees fit -- that's perfect>
My light is UVA, do I need a UVB?
<Yes, they need both UVA & UVB so maybe you can add a fluorescent fixture over the tank with a good quality reptile bulb.  But they are very tolerant of lighting issues so don't fret over that at the moment>
Also, is it okay to leave on all day?  I have been keeping it on about six hours a day.  Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
<Try leaving the lamp on 12 hours a day for now.  Monitor their eyes for puffiness, they noses for bubbles, their shells should be hard like fingernails and they should be active.  Then let's wait another week or so to see if the big guy eats.>
Thank you!
<You're being a great Turtle Mom, Samantha!  Good work!>

Turtle, RES Care – 5/14/07
Hello: My name is Rachel. Our neighbor found a wild, very small RES trucking down the road here last summer and brought it to our house and left it. At first I
really didn't want him but I decided to keep him and give it a whirl. After a year of sickness, bad advice and wrong setups, my husband and I have finally found the setup that appears to make this little guy happy (this is the 3rd setup). We have him in a 40 gallon aquarium with a 305 Fluval canister filter, small river rock and a log with a basking lamp and a water heater.  I have the temp set for 80 degrees but it is usually around 77 degrees.  The water is about 8 inches deep. He is very active and begs for food all the time. We have a calcium block floating in the tank and he chases it and bites it.  This seems to be a favorite past time. He spends much of his time on his log basking.  Sometimes he's all tucked in and other times
he will have one or both of his rear legs sticking straight out.
We have grown to love him and consider him a life long pet.
Here's what my questions are:
Does the setup sound okay? I've read conflicting articles about whether or not RES's should have access to small gravel. I read a few weeks ago that they need to ingest small rocks for health.  Is this true?
<Sand or gravel is not required for health reasons.>
We had much trouble with the local pet stores telling us the wrong things.
I finally just did a mix and seem to have found the right thing.
What types of veggies and fruit should I feed him?
< Kale and spinach are best.>
I've tried butter lettuce, cucumber and peeled grapes. He likes the grapes but everything else he hates. Right now he eats pretty exclusively pellet food with some occasional crickets. He does not eat feeder fish.  I currently have three very lucky feeder fish living the high life.
Should he have a companion and if so, do they need a larger aquarium for a while?
< Your male RES will not get lonely so a tankmate is not recommended.>
Our turtle is only about 4-5 inches across the widest part of his shell, so he's pretty little yet. I'm pretty sure he/she is a he. He is very aggressive when eating live crickets and he has very long claws.  I've also occasionally seen what appears to be male genitalia from his upper tail region. Should we trim his claws?
< I would recommend leaving them alone.>
His shell is peeling alot. Is this normal?
< Young growing turtles seem to shed alot. As he gets older and starts eating more vegetable matter and less protein his growth rate and sheds should start to slow down.>
The shell underneath appears to be healthy. We were having alot of shell problems with him but we've gotten all that cleared up. He was having shell problems when the neighbor brought him to us. It took me a while to figure it out because I was frankly so inexperienced.
I had never even seen a turtle except in the zoo.  I washed his shell in Betadine scrub (being careful not to get it in his eyes/mouth), soaked him in sulfa dip and then coated his spots with iodine. I made a little newspaper nest for him in a little tub and would put him in it for a few days.  Then I'd allow him back in his enclosure.  He would usually eat well right away.  It took a while and alot of Betadine washes, etc., but it seems that all the infections he had on his shell cleared up.  I'm not sure if I used all the right stuff, but it worked.
His shell hardly peeled at all up until about 2-3 months ago when we finally got his problems cleared up and got him into a setup that he likes.
We are having problems with green algae. My husband cleans the tank at least once per week, but we still can't seem to combat this. What should we do for this? I really prefer not to use chemicals. His tank is not directly in front of a window.
< Algae is a result of too much nitrogenous wastes in the water. Feed the turtle in another container that can be easily cleaned out. Turtles are messy eaters and their fecal matter with foul a tank very quickly. When they are done eating they will soon defecate. Put the turtle back in the main tank and dispose of the dirty water. The filter will require cleaning more often too.>
What about hibernation? Are you supposed to allow them to go into hibernation at certain times of the year? If so, how do you do this?
< I would not recommend hibernation unless you are serious about breeding turtles. They don't need it and it can be dangerous to the turtle if he is not properly prepared.>
What about vitamins? I know they need them, but by what source?
< If you feed a varied diet with lots of veggies then vitamin supplements are not needed. I might try a piece of cuttlebone to supply some calcium and to allow the turtle to sharpen his beak.>
Shell sprays, powder, food variety?
< A varied diet with pellets, insects, worms and some veggies will be all that he needs.> I've been using shell spray but probably not enough.
< Shell sprays are not needed.>
How many hours per day should we keep the basking lamp on and what wattage should it be?
< The basking lights should be on during normal daylight hours, 10-12 hours a day should be all that is needed. The lamp needs to be hot enough to get the basking site up to at least 85 F. If the area is too cool then move the source closer or get a bigger heat source.>
I believe the one that's in his tank is a 65 watt.
Thanks for answering all these questions for us. We and our turtle really appreciate it. Rachel
< The tank lights needs to be replaced every year to keep the UVB and UVA rays within the proper lighting spectrum. These are separate from the basking light.-Chuck>

New Turtle Questions 3/21/07
Hello, We just purchased 2 Red ear sliders from the pet store a few days ago and have been observing behavior. I have so many questions, I'm afraid that they are going to die.
<The ideal time to ask questions are BEFORE you purchase the turtles.>
1)We have a light / heat lamp for light and basking. Do we turn it off at night?
< A photo period of about 12 hrs per day should be enough.>
2)Do turtles sleep when the light is off and for how long?
< When the lights are off and they cool down, they will sleep until they are warmed up again the next morning.>
3)Is it okay to pour hot water in tank to warm up?
< Ideally you should get an unbreakable electric aquarium heater to make sure the water temp. doesn't get too low at night.
4)Turtles seem very lethargic at times. Is this normal?
< Turtles respond to the temperature of their environment. If it is too cool then they will be slow. They will be more active at higher temps.>
5)We have floating turtle food pellets is this sufficient for now?
<There are many brands of turtle food on the market. Little turtles will eat anything for awhile. For long term care start with ZooMed Aquatic Turtle Hatchling Food. This has all the vitamins and minerals that little turtles need.>
Sorry for all the questions, I want to give the turtles a long & healthy life. Thanks, Kori
<Search on the WWM website for questions already answered on turtles.-Chuck>

Red ear slider question 12/28/06
Dear Crew,
<Paula>
I recently bought 2 baby RES to keep my third one company.
<Mmm, don't need "company"... not really social animals>
One of them was not doing so good with the others (not growing, not eating, basking all day), so I put it on its separate tank, and added some eye drops. Now, the baby turtle eats (only shrimp, does not like the pellets!), but there is a strange white mucous right in between its eyes. I constantly change the water, and I put it right under the heat lamp. What could this be? Thank you so much!
Paula
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/resdisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, and the linked files in-text on turtle health. Bob Fenner>

Blind Hatchling Turtles Given A Chance   12/18/06
I have a question about blind RES. I work with many reptiles, but this is my greatest challenge yet. I take in animals that others can't help, or don't want to help. I just recently received two RES that were born without eyes. Where the eyes are suppose to be, there are two pin-head sized holes. They are both still hatchlings. One even has his egg tooth still. Do you have any tips on how to stimulate their appetite, or to get them to eat in general? I feel like they still deserve a chance at life. I tried to agitate them to get their mouth open, but that didn't work. I also tried to gently pry their mouth open and place a small cricket in their mouth, but I only have two hands. The only thing I can think of is to continue trying this to get them to eat, and turn it into a conditioned response of them eating when something taps them on the mouth. Any tips as soon as you can would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Joe Bob Jamida
< You might have to get them to smell the food under water first. I would try holding a very small piece of liver in front of them under water with some feeding tongs. Liver has a very strong odor and they might be tempted to eat it. Very young turtles are still absorbing their egg sac so it may take them awhile to get hungry. If they start to eat the liver then slowly get them on aquatic turtle pellets/worms and insects by mixing them with the liver. If these turtle do survive they will probably need to cared for up to 30+ years.-Chuck>

Turtles Getting Older   7/28/06
Hello. I like your site.
<Thanks>
A family I knew was a typical "turtles are cute let's get turtles" family and they ended up giving their pair of red-eared sliders to me. Well I wanted to be responsible so I read up on care, bought a bigger tank (twice now), and have tried to give them a reasonably good home. They seem happy, except for the occasional bullying. They act like they are well acclimated to my home, I've never noticed any health issues (spots, mucus, etc that would be obvious concerns). They swim around a lot, they bask, they shed, they are growing so much every time I have guests they say they are huge. I think they are about 3 or 4 now. One is about 6 inches long and the other is about 4. Both lower shells are flat and I see no difference in tails or claws, so I figure they must be the same sex, aside from the whole size thing.
I had thought they were both female until suddenly the big one had a wound on the neck so I separated them. Since I only have one light and one filter, I put the other one back in under supervision so he can not be too deprived and they both started fluttering their front claws at each other (so now they are both males?). Is there any chance that a female will do the dance as well or because I saw both of them doing it at the same time, is that proof-positive that they are both males?
< This fluttering is usually associated with males but I guess females could do this too.>
I don't want to see either of them get hurt or have a bad home. I live alone so I enjoy having the company. They beg for food when I come home from work, which is fun at first but they will do it for hours (I put a blanket up in front of the tank if it bothers me). They like to watch TV and they have distinct personalities. I've seen the big one trying to bite the tank wall before (presumably trying to attack his own reflection) but he gives up after a short time and it seems no harm is done. It's amusing to say the least. He also learned to eat from my hand and now won't leave my hands alone whenever I have to put my hands into the tank to do maintenance on the filter (also amusing - I know it's my fault for playing around with teaching them to eat out of my hands, so I don't blame him for it).
Any way, I doubt I can keep up two separate tanks for the next 40 years, any tips on how someone who lives in a very rural area can find a good home for a turtle?
< Give to a pet shop, place an add in the paper, county animal rescue or even a school.>
I think the littler one lost the battle for dominance and is now afflicted with a sort of "short man's syndrome" and has become more aggressive. The big one is bolder but gentle with humans and likes to explore but the littler one will bite people, although not hard enough to hurt anyone, I worry about children and won't let them touch him, much to their disappointment (and no worries, I insist on thorough hand washing if any kids do get near the turtles).
Another question, is it important to feed them a varied diet? It's not very easy to get specialized pet food in my area because mostly we just have your typical cats, dogs, birds, goldfish, and farm animals. They've had a diet of Wardley reptile premium sticks since I got them. I tried feeding them some kind of lettuce-like green early on after I got them, but they acted like they couldn't tell that it was edible. This year I fed them some cherries that I tore into little pieces and they were noticeably more enthusiastic for them than they are for their normal food, so I am thinking I'll do that again. I'm not sure if I can do worms and bugs, though. If I don't vary their diet am I going to have to find homes for both of them instead of just one?
< Try earthworms, insects , kale and spinach. They will try them and eventually learn to eat them.-Chuck>
Sorry for the length and thanks for your enthusiasm for water-loving creatures. Heather

Shipping Baby Turtles - 04/08/06
We are hoping to purchase a few baby RES turtles.  We live in northeast Pennsylvania and are awaiting the warm temperatures.  At what minimum temperature do you think it would be warm enough for us to consider having the turtles shipped? Thank you for you assistance.
< Baby turtles are usually born in the spring when daytime temps are in the 70's. Most reptiles are shipped in insulated boxes so they don't change temperatures during transit. I would not ship anything unless the lowest temp was at least 40 F and well above freezing.-Chuck>

New Turtle Owner Has Questions 3/22/06
Hi WWM,  About a month ago I was given a RES as a birthday  gift.  I have never owned a turtle before and never put much though  into actually being an owner/parent of one.  However, I am obligated  to keeping this one healthy. I have observed "Wurtle" and am trying  to meet his needs.  Initially it was his eating and he did not  want to bask.  It is now that he has begun basking.  A few  things that I have observed....1)He has shiny metallic looking spots on his shell, one of the spots looks like a little hole.
< Keep an eye on it . Could be the start of shell rot.>
2) In the water it  appears that he has some type of filmy white stuff that kind of lingers  attached to him. This is located on his skin, neck, legs etc.
< It is probably nothing more than shedding skin.>
I just  purchased sulfur dip.  I will begin treating him tonight. Then I  noticed when his eyes are closed they do appear to be puffy.  Is  this a sign of an infection?  They appear fine when they are  opened.
< Could be something to be concerned about. Get ZooMed Turtle Eye Drops and treat to be sure.>
Right before composing this, I noticed that when I was  feeding him he was dropping to one side.  He also has sneezing and/or coughing issues.
< Respiratory infections can be deadly and may require antibiotics. Check the basking spot with a thermometer. Should be between 85 and 90 F.>
I have done a major renovation of his tank since he  was given to me.  What am I missing?  20 gallon long  tank, a FLUVAL 2, submergible water heater, basking light-different  for night and day, 1/3 of the tank is filled with gravel and a rock sits  on top for basking.  The remainder of the tank is separated by a  partition and filled 1/3 of the way with water and some gravel at the  bottom so he can kick off. There is a ramp made of rock to access the  basking area. I live in NYC, when changing the water is there anything that I should do?
<If there is gravel in the water section then it should be vacumed while doing water changes.>
Or, should I just use bottled water?
<NYC tap water is fine as long as it is dechlorinated.>
Should I purchase a separate fluorescent bulb?
< A ZooMed ReptiSun 5.0 Florescent lamp is needed for proper shell growth and helps against "soft shell" in turtles.>
I will  admit, I lowered the temp of the water as per someone in the pet shop  hoping to force him to bask. What should the water temp actually be?
<Room temperature of about 60 to 70 F is fine.>
His  diet consist of pellets daily.  I began giving him 10 goldfish at a  pop and he would eat them all in a matter of 15 minutes.  He
refuses  the carrots, lettuce and strawberries.  What else would you  suggest. I would like to assure that he is getting the proper  nutrients.  Please
HELP!
< Depending on the age of your turtle there are commercial foods that are very good. Add occasional live fresh food like washed earthworms, meal worms or king worms. Older turtles require more vegetable matter in their diet like kale and spinach.-Chuck
(http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZS)
(http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZS)
Zena

Turtle Age And Spawning Green Terrors   3/20/06
Hi crew. Thanks for the earlier help. I have recently purchased a red year slider  turtle.1)! wanted to know how can I calculate its age. Its about 2  inches.
< It is probably a hatchling that was hatched about a year ago last spring.>
  2)My green terrors are not spawning. What can I do to stimulate them to spawn.
   any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanking you
< Feed them heavily with good food like live washed earthworms. The n do big 50% water changes while vacuuming the gravel. Raise the water temp to 82 F.-Chuck>

My baby res - 01/24/06
Hi there. I got my baby turtle in December. It was shipped from turtlesale.com. I have all the lights and the water heated.
I took my baby RES to the vet last Saturday because it hasn't eat since I got it. The first week it ate once,
but that was it. Then it started to get less active every day. Yesterday (after the vet Saturday gave it a
shot with Vitamin B and antibiotics and other stuff to hydrate it) was more active. The vet gave me 5 more
doses of the medicine to be injected on the food, but the turtle doesn't want to eat yet. I don't know what
to do. Also, the shell has some white spots, I was wondering if that is from the water. (enclosed photo for you to see)
<I have kept turtles in the past and do believe that water quality is a very important factor
in keeping them healthy. I would continue to follow the vets instructions and also keep the water
pristine as possible. Make sure you use a dechlorinator such as stress coat. I would also keep the
aquarium lights off to reduce the levels of stress. Try feeding the turtle different types of foodstuff as well. Good luck
IanB>
Please, let me know what can I do. I don't want it to die.
Thanks

Turtle Won't Eat 12/24/05
Hi. My name is Roy and I have a res in a 20 gallon tank , he is about 4 and half
inches long. My problem is that he wont eat the turtle sticks, all he
will eat is chicken and some lean meat, but I read that there diet can't be
just meat because its to fatty for his diet. I'm worried that he might get
sick. What should I do?
< As turtles get older they become less of a meat eater and more of a vegetable eater. Try some washed earthworms, commercial adult turtle food, kale and spinach leaves too.-Chuck>

New Turtle Questions 12/21/05
We just purchased our first RES. My question to you is: Do you leave the basking light on 24-7?
< No, Put it on a timer to go on for 12 hours and then off for 12 hours. I would recommend that it go on at 10:00 A.M. and off at 10:00 P.M. This way when you get home you have a chance to watch him during the week.>
Also, my turtle sleeps underwater. Is this normal?
< When turtles sleep they go into a trance that slows down their heartbeat and breathing. Sleeping underwater is normal for your turtle.-Chuck>
I thought they breathed in O2. Thanks. Tammy, Mesa AZ

Slider behavior 12/17/05
I had a question about my Red Eared Slider and I am hoping you can answer it because I am definitely puzzled. I've had him now for about 4 months and he is in a 10 gallon aquarium with a filter and all...and has been very active and in the water with minimal sunning throughout the day. Now all of the sudden, all he wants to do is sit on the turtle dock and bask, and rarely does he go down in the water. He still eats and everything so I would assume nothing is wrong, just wanted to check. If you have any ideas or anything could you please let me know? I'd appreciate it a lot.
Thanks,
Alex
<Mmm, don't see a mention of a heater... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/redearsliders.htm
and the linked files above, particularly re turtle systems, behavior. Bob Fenner>

New Turtle Questions 12/16/05
Hi there, I have 2 RES's that I purchased at a mall kiosk (my 1st mistake, I know), but I have been able to figure out most everything by now and they are doing well.  However, my 20 gallon tank is being overrun by green algae, and I have been cleaning out the entire tank repeatedly for 3 weeks, but it keeps coming back and just keeps spreading.  Your site doesn't seem big on it, but the people at PetSmart said as long as at wasn't brown algae it wasn't harmful.  But now its spreading onto their basking rocks, and the water is even turning green!
< Turtles are pretty messy eaters. Excess food and turtle waste breaks down to ammonia that is loved by algae. Filters help by developing bacteria that break the waste down into less toxic substances such as nitrites and then nitrates. Just like in a fish tank. The algae really doesn't hurt anything, it just looks bad. Feed your turtles a little bit in the morning and a little bit in the late afternoon. All uneaten food should be removed after a couple of minutes.  Get a filter and plan on changing water a couple times a week. One turtle would be about 1/2 the work. Two in a 20 gallon will get pretty crowded pretty quickly as they grow. Scrape the algae off the glass with a single edged razor blade. Don't worry about the algae on the rocks. Too much work to keep clean.>
Also, I read the water pH is supposed to be at 7.8.  Mine is at 6.8.  What do I do to raise it?
< You can go to a local fish store and get some powder to raise the pH. I currently use the turtle floater thing, the de-chlorinating fluid, and Turtle Clean.  Lastly, one turtle was opening his mouth (gasping?) this morning on the basking rock, could he have gotten a chill, and if so, what should we do to keep them warmer at night when the basking light is off?  We have the water heater set at 80 right now.  Thanks for all your help!!!!!!
< Turn the heater down to 70 F. Check the temp of the basking spot. It should be around 85 F. You turtle may have a respiratory infection. The temperature changes will help. The spot may be hot enough already. Reptiles sometimes cool themselves by opening their mouths to let moisture evaporate and cool them down. Down worry about keeping them warm at night . They are use to big changes in water temp.-Chuck>

Red Eared Sliders Changing With The Seasons 12/13/05
Should I adjust the basking and UV lamps for my sliders with the
changing light conditions as the seasons change outside?  I keep my 3
RES's in a large indoor pond that is heated all year round.  Should I
keep it spring and summer all year (maybe 12-14 hours of light), or
should I shorten their days to reflect the fact it's winter coming on?
Again, the air and water temp will remain the same all year.  Thanks!
LARRY in Los Angeles
< As long as the water temperatures don't change then I would not change the lighting. If you were trying to breed them then I might try a different diurnal period along with a cooling period. Then in the spring I might try to increase the water temp and the lighting to simulate spring.-Chuck>

Sick/Blind Turtle 12/5/05
Hi, Guys! I read all the posts and this is different. I bought four baby RES two weeks ago. After I put them in the tank (new tank, floating dock, rocks, UVA/UVB reptile light on side of tank, 2 10W incandescent on top) that one was blind. Or
rather, where his eyes should be are two beige areas, with the same markings as his head. He basked a lot, and was reluctant to swim much.
He doesn't eat. I've tried krill, chicken, pellets, apple, worms, etc. Put it wet, right by his nose and he doesn't sniff. He wipes his head a lot, too, when feeling active. Every day I think he'll be dead, and every day he is on the floating dock, head tucked in, and not eating.
He started gaping a week ago. No discharge, just gaping, usually after swimming a bit. He never dives, just paddles a bit, and then finds the dock again. Then gapes a few minutes. This isn't good is it? I read some posts today and put him in a sulfa dip bowl, with a basking rock, and a 100 watt light 12 inches away. Can I pry his mouth open, and if I do, what should I try to feed him? Thanks, Kate
< He won't eat until he can see. He has a respiratory infection. You can get some Turtle Eye Drops from Zoomed and some vitamins as well. The respiratory infection may require antibiotics from a vet. Check the basking spot with a thermometer. It should be around 85 to 90 F. When he can see and is going into the water on his own then he is ready to feed.-Chuck>

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