Discus success story (stkg., fdg.) and lionfish treatment (hlth.)   11/21/09
Hello crew, today I am writing about a success story of mine, a question, and concerns about the treatment of my black volitans lionfish, Lucifer.
First of, I am now the proud owner of my first discus,
<Symphysodon spp. are social animals... really only do well in groups, mated pairs>
a fish I have always wanted to take a hand at. I am happy to report that the discus has oddly enough adapted quite well to my rather busy community aquarium and has been happily feeding off all dry/frozen foods
<Mmm, need more than this>
for the 5 weeks I have had it. I am now planning on saving for a 125 set up of maybe 6 discus and once those are nicely set up mature and established perhaps try adding 6 altum angels.
<Ahh, I wouldn't mix these. See the Net, library re>
My question is that on your site I have read angels and discus generally are not compatible, yet my discus is thriving alongside 3 angels that do not hassle it or out compete it.
<Perhaps you are/were lucky, but time will tell>
This leads me to believe that in certain circumstances the mix might not be so bad. Would it be safest to try adding angels or discus first to try to make sure everything goes along
smoothly?
<Up to you, but I would not>
My last question is in regards to my lionfish. Not even a week ago my lion was eating healthily and all seemed well. Then over the course of 2 or 3 days his eyes clouded and he stopped eating. I at first thought it was blindness like you mentioned in your article on lions but I just have standard fluorescent light bulbs, nothing intense. Several employees at the LFS I work at agreed that it sounded like a bacterial infection and should be dosed with Maracyn.
<Possibly>
I dosed the aquarium (125 gallons) with both Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 since we were not sure if it was internal or external. Now two days later, his eyes look a bit better but he is still not eating and appears to be covered in a fungus that my puffer had. It looks like marine ick I suppose and I added Maroxy to the water as well. Is there anything else I can do? I read that lions can last a while without being fed but I am really worried about losing him. -Thanks Ray
<Really only able to "tell" what this might be through microscopic examination... I might try pH-adjusted freshwater bathing this fish, moving it to other quarters if you have such. Please use the search tool on WWM re. Bob Fenner>

Ich and blindness 9/5/09
Hello, and thanks in advance for considering my problem /question,
<Welcome>
I have a beautiful P. Volitans named Vlad the Impaler who is about 8 in. long. He has always been a voracious eater of pre-frozen silversides , lancefish and (dried) baby shrimp. He is in a tank with 90 lbs live
rock, crushed coral substrate, some fake corals for hiding spots and color, a 120 gal rated trickle filter w/ bioballs and (small) sump, large overflow box/ prefilter with 2 bags of 11.4 oz ChemiPure Elite, sandwiched between layers of blue and white filter floss, two porous sponges for bacterial growth, one Koralia 3 and an Aqua C EV120 powered by a Mag 7 w/a ball valve to control flow. The tank has been set up since late January of this year.
He has two roommates, a powder blue tang ~4 in, a porcupine puffer ~ 4 in, and a green brittle sea star.
<How big is this system? What shape?>
About a month and a half ago to two months ago, Vlad the lion accidentally poked a hole in Iggy the puffer's eye. I kept Vlad in a separate partition in the tank whilst Iggy healed and added VitaChem weekly. He was blinded in that eye for a few days but healed up amazingly after a week or two and can see perfectly out of both again. All had been going great until two weeks ago when I bought a 13 lb procured rock to aid filtration and put it directly in the tank without quarantining it.
<Oh oh>
I did not realise this could be a problem, but coupled with a weak immune system from his recent injury, It must have been as Iggy the puffer got ich . I raised temp and lowered salinity slightly to 1.019.
<Mmm, won't "do it">
I freshwater dipped him which he hated but seemed ok afterwards a few days later, it showed up on Tuco , my powder blue tang, then Vlad the lion who had only three cysts-two on one eye, one on the other. I decided to dip them all separately in freshwater 80 degrees and pH @ 8.2 same as display tank. One of the lionfish's eyes burst during his five minute dip,
<!?>
and the other became completely cloudy. The puffer and the tang did well and were moved to a 29 gal. QT. being treated w/ quinine sulfate for one week.
<Ah good>
I had no other tank to put Vlad the lion in so he stayed in the display after I did a 25 % water change and siphoned of all the substrate in the display tank. Vlad's eyes appeared to heal some after a week, but he has
yet to have eaten.
<May take much more time>
He swims a lot and seems to be hunting but I don't think he can see very well if at all. The ich went away on those fishes in the QT but the small tank stressed the puffer so that he got abrasions on his upper lip and top
of head, so I moved them back.
I read a lot on your pages and saw the two front approach, thought long and hard about how to handle treating all fish whilst allowing main tank to become fallow and could not come up with a good answer. Vlad being large and venomous, and Iggy the puffer injuring himself, I decided to reverse the process and quarantine the rocks and seastar instead. I emptied out the QT, refilled it and used Chemipure Elite to remove traces of meds perhaps left behind in it, moved the star and all but one of my rocks into both it
and the 10 gallon and treated the display tank. It was just the only way I could think of to get them all treated and to allow perhaps the rocks to go fallow for 6 weeks. I am now down to the skimmer, one big rock, bioballs and floss for filtration.
All are now in display tank being treated with quinine sulfate as directed, tang and puffer eating well, the lion swims actively, looks a bit hungry but won't eat anything I normally feed ,even if I drop it on his nose. As a
last ditch effort to see if anything will tempt him, I did a no-no and bought a couple of feeder comets. No response from him still I'm afraid he will die although he is fat and looks great despite the slight clouding of
his eyes.
<Not to worry... the Lion can go w/o feeding for a few to several weeks in its present condition>
Fin coloration a bit darker than usual. pH 8.3, Ammonia:0 Nitrite: 0
Specific gravity: 1.019
Any help greatly appreciated.
Jenney
PS: I plan to upgrade my tank size later
<Likely needed... Your Lion will likely resume feeding once the system is returned to near seawater strength/concentration. Stick with your present plan, offer food every few days. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ich and blindness 9/5/09
Hello Bob,
<Hi Jenney>
Thanks so much for prompt response and your help! I can't believe I forgot to mention tank shape and size! Sorry. It is a 90 gal rectangle.
<I see... so you will/should be looking to upgrade in time...>
The powder blue and puffer are eating very well but keep getting reinfected daily.
<These protozoan problems can be "the Dickens" for sure>
However we are only on day two of the quinine sulfate treatment...My lion breathes normally, did shed a few days ago three or four days after his eye injury and never rests. He isn't darting around, just "cruising" endlessly.
I wish I could see him relax for a bit. He's always been an active fish and usually only rests after feeding. His vision is definitely impaired, could its acuity return?
<Yes, could>
Also, should I remove the crushed coral substrate, or just keep vacuuming daily during treatment?
<At least this latter>
I plan to keep the live rock and inverts in the QTs for 6 weeks and I hope this works. Will they be reuse these rocks in the display tank after they have been in fishless tanks for 6 weeks?
<I don't understand the question. Such rock can be reused... carries less a chance of vectoring as time goes by>
Thanks again,
Jenney
<Welcome. BobF>

Lionfish Blindness: Lionfish Health, Feeding, and Lighting 8/11/2009
Hi,
<Hi George>
I have an 8" Volitans Lionfish. I have had him for approx. 10 months. He has always displayed normal behavior. For the last 2 weeks he has been very finicky and has been eating very little.
<Feeding strikes aren't uncommon, what are you feeding him?>
The last 4 days he wont eat. Now he is swimming erratically especially at the top of the tank and he is running into the glass and other objects in the tank. He appears that he can not see.
<Lionfish blindness has a few possible causes:
1. Poor Diet
2. Intense lighting
3. Old Age\Cataracts (Aggravated by the first two causes)
Follow this link - there has been much written about this subject:
http://www.google.com/custom?hl2=en&cof2=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%
23336699%3BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3A99C9FF%3BLBGC%3A336699%
3BALC%3A0000FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A
0000FF%3BFORID%3A1%3B&oe2=ISO-8859-1&ie2=ISO-8859-1&forid2=1&domains2=www.WetWebMedia.com&q=lionfish+blindness&sa=
Search&sitesearch=www.WetWebMedia.com&client2=pub-4522
959445250520 >
He does not respond to me. His color has darkened, other than that I don't see any other physical changes. I have checked all of the water parameters and they are all normal. Nothing has changed in the tank and all the other fish appear fine. We lost a lionfish last year at about the same age. He was displaying this same behavior before he died. I can not find a vet in the area with any knowledge of lionfish. Is there anything you can suggest?
We really don't want to lose another Lion.
<Do read the above linked files>
Thanks,
George
<MikeV>

Re: Lionfish Blindness: Lionfish Health, Feeding, and Lighting 8/13/2009
Hi Mike,
<Hi George.>
Thank you for your response.
<My pleasure.>
We have been feeding him silversides and thawed frozen shrimp. About a month ago he began rejecting the silversides, so he has been eating only the shrimp. We also supplement with fish solutions, although only on non feeding
days. We have been feeding every other day.
<May want to try some different foods - squid, perhaps some clam.>
The lionfish is only about 1 1/2 years old, so I don't think it's due to old age.
<Ok>
After watching him the last few days, I am convinced he can not see. He is running into everything.
<If it is nutritional, the blindness can be at least partially reversed.
How much lighting is in the tank?>
He is also sticking his head out of the water like he is trying to get air, but there is plenty of aeration in the tank and none of the other fish are displaying abnormal behavior.
<Hmm....... what do your water tests reveal?>
I will read the link and we are open to any other suggestions you may have.
<Keep the lights dim for a couple of days, do look into soaking foods in Selcon - a very good vitamin supplement.>
Thank you.
George
<MikeV>

Re: Lionfish Blindness: Lionfish Health, Feeding, and Lighting 8/19/2009
Hi Mike,
<Hi George, I apologize for the delay in getting back with you, I was sent out of town on business.>
We only use the actinic lights in the tank, so it's not bright.
<Hmm... I wonder......Actinic lighting is actually more for our benefit than for anything in the tank. I would try to get this fish under some regular light as well.>
I have stepped up using the "Fish Solutions" supplement every day.
He won't eat anything. I tap him on his mouth with the shrimp and he just backs away.
<Not a good sign.>
The water test are all perfect. The only one that is up a little is nitrate, but that's only 15-25 and this is a fish only tank, so that should not be too high.
<I agree.>
The big problem is his blindness. I don't think he is going to eat because of it. I think this is the same thing that happened to our last lion. He finally starved to death after about 7 weeks without eating.
It is strange to us that both lions appear to have the same behavior after about the same amount of time in the tank. Since the ammonia, ph, nitrate, nitrites and salinity are fine, and all the other fish are fine, I can't imagine it is the tank, but it makes me wonder. Is there something else I should check?
<Beyond using some real light - something in the 6700 - 10000K range, no.>
I have noticed a lot of small white worms, very thin smooth red worms and large bristle worm in my fuge. Also, what appears to be a large blob of red algae. Is any of this harmful?
<Not harmful - actually signs of a healthy fuge.>
For now I have disconnected the fuge from the tank until I know. None of the other fish are displaying any abnormal behavior.
<Try some real light and see if that helps. Also keep up with nutritious foods.>
Thanks again,
George
<MikeV>

Green rot on Hawaiian Lionfish Lionfish Health\Disease Looks like Fin Rot. No Information Given. 7/21/2009 <Hello Amber.> I just noticed this on my Lionfish today. <Looks like Finrot.> Otherwise he has been acting normal and eating. Do you know what it is and what I should do? Read Here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/liondisfaqs.htm as well as the linked pages at the top. You will want to treat the Lionfish in a quarantine tank with antibiotics. You can read about that here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bestquarfaqs.htm > <In the future, it is helpful to include details about your system - size, tankmates, water testing results, etc.> Amber <MikeV>

Sick Lionfish, env., no reading 5/29/09
Hello, I have a sick lionfish and I’m very troubled about what to do. I’ve had my 4” lionfish for about 6 months now. I conduct once a month water changes and change about 25% of the water. He is inside a 35 gallon aquarium with 2 damsels, which he doesn’t bother for some reason.
<What species of lionfish? A 35 really isn't large enough.>
The LFS where I got him raised him on Demysis. I’ve been feeding my lionfish the diet of Demysis since we have gotten him. I’ve recently read that his diet should be mixed up. Approximately 2 weeks ago, my lionfish was completely fine. He would beg for food and swim and dance every time he saw me coming. One day, approximately 2 weeks ago, he was completely fine, then 10 minutes later when I walked to the tank, he was breathing heavily and was at the bottom.
<A sudden difference like this is going to be either some sort of poisoning or lack of oxygen.>
I didn’t notice anything on the fish other than he would just stay on the bottom. I got him to eat a little amount of food, but not much. He even ate some live ghost shrimps.
Approximately one week ago, I’ve noticed a couple things: he has a white slim covering most of his body. When he flashes, a cloud of the stuff comes off him. Also, his breathing seems to have slowed down. However, it looked like a little bit of his color was gone and his body seemed to be bent a little. I had the LFS test the water and nitrites were 0, ph was 8.2, nitrates were 12.5 and ammonia was .25, which they said was bad.
<The poison.>
The other tests were all fine. They gave me some ammonia remover stuff, which I put into the aquarium.
<Hmmm, you need to do some water changes and check if something died in the tank. Otherwise you need to evaluate your filtration. It is not handling the bioload for this to happen after 4 months.>
Today, I noticed there was a bulge on the side of his body, near his anus. He hasn’t eaten for 3 days now. The LFS did not recommend any water changes <I do.> and suggested I treat with Prazipro because they said it is completely safe and may help.
<Even the best med in the world will do no good without good water quality. Do water changes, do buy a simple test kit to evaluate the water yourself on a regular basis.>
I’m not sure how much I can trust the LFS and hope that you may be able to provide me with help.
<Scott V.>

Re: Sick Lionfish 5/31/09
Thanks for your advice.
<Welcome.>
I conducted the water changes like you suggested.
<Good.>
He has gone from sitting on the bottom to hanging out on the top of the tank. He looks a little disoriented and floats and swims near the surface. He ate a little bit yesterday, but not much. The big bulge on the side of him has gone down some, which makes me happy.
<A good sign along with the eating.>
I conducted a couple water tests and the water seems to be fine. Nitrates and nitrites low, ph in good range, and ammonia has gone down.
<Ammonia needs to be zero, keep up the water changes.>
I'm hoping for the best, but I'm still worried.
<Keep doing what you are doing, giving this fish good water quality is the best you can do right now.>
Thanks again.
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Lionfish Health\Feeding 4/3/2009
Hi Guys
<Hi Peter>
Just looking at your site and was checking some of the other peoples blogs, but can you help me?
<Will certainly try>
I have been keeping marines for about 12 months, I started with a very small 2 foot tank. My water parameters have always been okay. Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 PH 8.2 and sal 1.024, however I have always
struggled to keep my nitrates down. I moved to a bigger tank 180 ltr and I still have the problem with the nitrates, they are at 40 - 50 ppm, tried 10% changes every other day.
<What else is in the tank with it?>
In the new tank (set up in Dec 2008) I have about 4 inches of coral sand and about 40 - 50 kgs of live rock, I run a V2 400 protein skimmer a Fluval 205 ex filter, and a power head. The filter has reefresh20
just added, Rowa-phos, carbon and sponge filter. I have 2 blue hermits and 6 Turbos, and a recently purchased fuzzy dwarf lion fish. He seems not to be eating, been in there since Sat, 28th March. I was told he was feeding fine on frozen shrimp although I never saw him feeding, but they are a reputable dealer recommended by fishkeeper mag.
<I wouldn't worry too much unless the feeding strike goes over 10 days.
You may try feeding with the lights off.>
He has 2 clouded eyes, since Wednesday.
<Usually water quality\Diet\Injury. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/liondisfaqs.htm >
He swims about when the light off which I thought was norm. But hides upside down in a cave when the light comes on, again I thought this the norm.
<Is normal, they can, with time, become more active during the day>
Are the water parameters the problem, and if so do you have any ideas other than water changes to get the nitrates down?
<Need more information regarding what else is in the tank, how much and how often the tank is fed, etc.>
I have lost fish before (velvet) and I had a nasty feeling it was the nitrates but I am not sure.
<Poor water quality can make fish more susceptible to disease, but it did not cause Velvet..
I was on the verge of giving up at one point, due to losing my fish ( very disheartening seeing fish die) and I don't wish it to happen again, well not unnecessary. Please can you give me any advise, I have spoken to a number of dealers, and other than the water changes they can't help, is it due to the coral sand as there is a lot?
<If it is trapping a large amount of uneaten food and\or fish waste, it can. There has been much written on this subject. I suggest you start here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm >
Oh the dwarf is not eating yet either tried frozen shrimp, and frozen brine shrimp, I really don't want to go down the live fish road unless I have to.
<Try some live brine shrimp with the lights turned down>
Kind regards
Peter Findler
<My Pleasure>
<Mike>

Re: Dwarf Lionfish Health\Feeding 4/8/2009
Hi Mike
<Hi Peter>
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated. I did a check on the water with just the salt added, 0ppm, so I take it that cycle is loaded with nitrates?
<Hmm.... Possible, seems unlikely though. In any case, in a properly set up tank, it is not necessary.>
Anyway I will only use it when I do a major water change. One other question if you could help me.... how do I wean the fuzzy off the Neons and onto frozen food?
<As soon as possible>
I have tried offering frozen shrimp ( raw ) as he now comes to the surface when I open the lid, but he does not seem interested.
<It does take time. You can try mixing a little 'dead" food with the live and see if he takes it, or put it at the end of a stick and jiggle it so it seems alive.>
Although if someone offered me a pizza when I had been getting steak, I would probably do the same. He is doing fine though and he is keeping a close eye on my blue hermits.
<Excellent news.>
Regards Peter
<My pleasure, Mike>

Lionfish Diet\Health Too much fish in too small a volume. 4/3/2009
<Hi Kenny>
I purchased Mufasa (now about 10 in.) about a year and a half ago and have never had a problem with him eating until 2 mo. ago.
<Big Lion>
He seemed to have difficulty swallowing anything. I was feeding him a variety of frozen as well as live food (frozen silversides, krill, and live Rosey Reds).
<Hmm.... Usually best to wean them off of live foods.>
He acted hungry and would take the food but after a few seconds he would spit it back out. after talking to several aquarists, they suggested soaking the frozen food in a garlic substance. That has seemed to work and he has been eating fine, however; I noticed that I have not seen him defecate---ever---???
<I'm sure he has and you just haven't seen it.>
He is not bloated though, I have seen clouds in the water that kinda look like smoke, if you can visualize that.
<Yep>
I was reading a magazine article about parasites and they mentioned that some may cause an increase amount of mucus in the feces. the article also stated that parasites could protrude from the vent.
after looking, their seems to be a very small fuzzy white thing coming from his vent.
<It is possible considering he still gets live food, but not enough evidence to point to a parasite as yet.>
Mufasa has good color and seems to be a happy, healthy fish. He is in a 45 gal tank with lava rock, and live sand. the only other animal is a snowflake moray eel that is est. at 20 in.
<WAY too small. Need a tank at least twice as big, three times as large would be better.>
Parameters are all good, nitrates are a little high (35ppm) and I do bi-weekly water changes of 20%, tank is filtered with a remora protein skimmer.
<Any other filtration?>
Any advice, other than getting a bigger tank (which is in the works) would be appreciated, do you think the "smoke" is his feces?
<Possible>
Do you think he has a parasite, if so, what should I treat him with?
<Without clear symptoms, I would not treat for parasites yet.>
Is their any prevention methods i can take to avoid parasites?
<Stop feeding live foods.>
thanks
<You're Welcome>
Kenny
<Mike>

Black Volitans Lionfish, sys., reading 3/30/09
My Black Lion Volitans Lionfish does not want to eat and does not look hungry. I have had him for over two months now, and he has always been an aggressive eater. He has doubled in size since he came to my tank.
<This is too much growth, too soon...>
He does appear to me molting/shedding, but his breathing seems to be fine.  He may be a bit more listless than normal but he does move around once in a while. Yesterday, I did a 25% water change and he may have gotten a little stressed when I moved him out of the way to clean the tank glass. His other tank mates are all doing fine in my 55 gallon tank.
<Too small for a specimen of this species ultimately>
My tank does consist of a few anemones
<Incompatible>
and soft coral. I feed him frozen (thawed at the time of feeding) krill, silversides, and freshwater minnows (rarely). How often do they molt,
<Pteroines do shed "occasionally"... a bit every few days to weeks normally>
and is probably the only thing that is going on with him? I hope you can come up with something with the info I supplied. Thanks much! Scott.
<... Need to know more re your water quality, but your situation is untenable... This Lion can't live well or long in these circumstances... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/lions&rels.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Black Volitans Lionfish 3/31/09
Thanks for responding, Bob. I appreciate your comments. Unfortunately the Lionfish did die.
<Ahh!>
I can't believe how fast he went after doing so well. Maybe a smaller Dwarf Lion would be better for my tank?
<Yes... much better... for the size/shape/volume, but still not good to place with Anemones... too likely to be stung in such a "foot print"... 1 by 4 foot bottom>
Thanks again.
Scott
<Welcome. BobF>

Lionfish Health\Stocking 3/26/2009
Hi guys.
<Hi Elise>
I have a very small volitans lionfish in a 75 gallon low-lit, well-established fish-only set up.  His tank-mates are a large pajama cardinal, a large three striped damsel, and three percula clowns. Let me say first that I know I will have to move him eventually to a larger home, and that sooner or later he'll be big enough to eat current tank-mates.
<Very true.>
But right now, he is very small. He trained very quickly to frozen foods, and I've been feeding him krill and frozen cubed meats soaked in Boyd's VitaChem. Water quality is as follows: ammonia: 0; nitrite: 0; ph 8.3; salinity 1.023. Temperature is 80F. Regarding nitrates, well now that's where I've been a bad fish mommy. The nitrates have been really really high, the test was dark red, and I've been kind of ignoring that. (Bad fish mommy!) We did finally rectify that by adding a nice fuge with a ton of Chaetomorpha algae, and did a large water change. The nitrate level has dropped like a stone since we made this change a week ago, and I expect it to be down to zero shortly. It's about 30 right now.
<This and regular water changes will bring it down faster.>
So on to my question: I've had the lion for about a month, and his fins, tentacles, whatever they are, have gotten thin, raggedy, and shorter. I'm assuming this is due to the poor water quality he's been exposed to for the month or so that I've had him. So, now that I've got the water quality under control, will his fins/appendages return to their former glory, and if so, how long will it take?
<It could have been caused by the water quality and\or, the Lionfish is being harassed by the Damsel and the Clownfish. Do keep up with the water quality and watch for aggression. and the fins should come back quickly enough.>
Thanks guys, and I love the new homepage!
<You're Welcome>
Elise
<Mike>

Lionfish Health\Stocking\Feeding 3/27/2009
Thanks Mike,
<Hi Elise, my pleasure.>
Actually, the damsels and clowns steer clear of him.
<Fair enough, but do keep an eye out, Damsels do tend to get aggressive with age.>
I forgot to ask for a little advice on diet. I've been trying to research this, and the only thing I'm sure of is what NOT to feed him (feeder goldfish!).
<Very true.>
He seems willing to eat anything, and I'd like to vary his diet beyond the cubed stuff and krill.
<The Lionfish will appreciate that.>
Should I be going to the seafood section of my supermarket and getting him whatever marine fish they have there?
<Usually the best place>
Like shrimp, tuna, Mahi Mahi? I've read nothing oily, but I don't know what's oily and what's not.
<Uncooked, peeled shrimp, scallops, clams, octopus or squid if they have it. Salmon tends to be oily, Basically, anything uncooked and fit for human consumption is fine.>
Should I head down to the beach and scavenge for whatever crustaceans I can find?
<Please don't, this runs the risk of introducing disease\parasites into your tank.>
Thanks again
Elise
<Mike>

Help! Lionfish dying
Lionfish, Stocking\(mis)Medication 3/3/2009
Hi There,
<Hi Valarie>
Thank you for any advice you can give me!
<Will do my best>
Background:
I have a 200 gal fish only tank w/ dead corals, with Lionfish, Emperor Angel, Foxface, Blue Jaw Trigger, Lunar wrasse, Purple tang, and zebra eel.
I did have a good size Harlequin Tusk for 4 months or so and then it mysteriously died while I was on vacation last June. The lunar wrasse had
harassed it quite a bit and had intimidated it into hiding a lot. The wrasse also harasses the trigger fish.
<You may wish to consider finding the Wrasse a new home.>
There has been no other sickness or death since then, however I have problems with high pH. I became more aware of this about 4 weeks ago and
have been doing a lot of water changes but it does not seem to be improving.
<Really?>
My current parameters are: salt=1.019,
<WAY too low - you want this around 1.024 - 1.026>
Nitrite=0, Ammonia=0, ph about 8.6.
<pH is a little higher than normal, but as long as it is consistent, I wouldn't worry too much. What is your Nitrate level?>
I need to get an additional test kit as with this one it is really hard to tell if it is 8.4 or 8.8. FYI, my pH on just mixed water is: 7.8.
<Any measurements on just mixed water are useless for at least 24 hours.>
I have had a Lionfish for almost 1 ½ years, he is about 9 ½ inches long. He has not eaten in at least 5 weeks, and has became less and less active over time.
<The Wrasse is picking on him as is probably stressing the fish out.>
3 ½ weeks ago, he started breathing heavy, and leaving his mouth open at all times, but no signs of white spots or dust on any fish. After a few
days of no improvement, I removed the lionfish, did a fresh water and formalin dip, and put him in a 10g quarantine tank.
<Why? If it is not showing any signs of disease, you are stressing this fish further.>
I attempted to put him back in my tank after a few days as it was been quite painful to maintain decent water parameters in the Qtank.
<9.5 inch fish in a 10 gallon tank.>
However the lunar wrasse started harassing him big time, trying to bite at him.
<I'm starting to see a pattern here, it is time to lose the Wrasse.>
The Lionfish did nothing, so I pulled him back out and into the Qtank, and have basically been completely refreshing the water every day and adding 5 ml Melafix (recommended by LFS) and .5 ml formalin.
<Again, why? The only thing Melafix is good for is parting people from their money. Secondly, Formalin is a biocide - it attacks ALL life, and is only used for specific problems, never as a general "cure-all".
The Lionfish is getting beaten up by the Wrasse, likely malnourished, and been soaked in toxic chemicals.>
I noticed a bit of slime floating off him, but nothing too severe.
<They do do this from time to time.>
Also the fins were "shredded" a bit but I thought this may have also been due to the dip and moves between tanks.
<This or the Wrasse.>
I added a blue damsel to the QT to tempt him to eat and he has not attempted to eat it.
<Not recommended as the damsel can introduce parasites.>
I stopped the formalin after 2 ½ weeks since he showed no improvement.
<Because the fish wasn't sick at this point.>
I have now noticed a large bright red patch which resembles a blood blister on the meaty part of his tail. On the other side, it is showing redness but not as severe. He continues to decline.
<and now he is sick/injured>
When he was eating, I had been feeding him frozen raw shrimp that I buy at Sam's club.
<Good choice, do try to offer other foods as well.>
Any advice on anything I can do to save him would be greatly appreciated!
<I know your heart is in the right place, but you are only making the situation MUCH worse. Get a bigger quarantine tank 10 gallons is too small for a fish this big - you can pick up a 20 - 30 gallon tank fairly inexpensively at Wal-Mart (Less than the cost of replacing a 9.5 inch Lionfish in any case). Put it in a quiet, dark, place. Get the water parameters correct - start at 1.019 and slowly bring it up to 1.024. Get an antibiotic Maracyn or Maracyn II - Try Maracyn first. If you see no improvement in a week, use Maracyn II Follow the directions EXACTLY. After a couple of days, offer some food. It may take a while to get him eating again. Lastly, find the Wrasse a new home.>
Thank you!!!!
<You are very welcome, do let me know how it turns out.>
Val
<Mike>

Lion Fish tail damage / disease ?  2/24/09 I've had a large Lion fish (about 14 inches) for about 5 years now. I received it as an adult not much smaller than it is now. It has been healthy as long as I've had it. It seems to be losing its tail. It appears as though it's being bitten off. However, I've been trying to observe closely, and have not seen any such behavior from other fish. There are also bumps on what remains of its tail. I've had the 150 gal tank running for about 10 years without any significant changes. <Likely have... lost alkaline reserve...> His tank mates include: large Domino Damsel, medium Picasso Trigger, Large Emperor, large French Angel, Large Miniatus Grouper, Medium Heniochus, Medium Squirrel fish, and a medium Porcupine Puffer. I realize i have a pretty aggressive tank, <And crowded> but have not witnessed any aggression towards the Lion. I typically do 20% water changes twice a month. I've had the water tested by LFS and all conditions are good. <... need values... numbers... not subjective evaluations> He generally feeds on freeze dried Krill, and occasional silversides. He will take other frozen foods Formula 1, formula 2, clams, Mysis....but does not take these as readily as the Krill and silversides. I do occasionally soak the Krill in Selcon. <Good> His eating habits are still good. His general behavior and breathing seems fine. Is there any disease that would show these symptoms, or is there a possible diet deficiency? <Mmm...> Or, is he just getting picked on by a pesky Domino or Trigger? Again, I've not witnessed any such aggression. I've attached a picture of the tail. Dennis McGinley <My guesses are the same as yours... either nutritional deficiency or nipping by a tankmate. Not likely disease. The best course of action here is to move this Lionfish elsewhere. Bob Fenner>

Re: Lion Fish tail damage / disease ?  2/24/09 Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I know I wasn't very specific with the values. I will re-test and get them for you. In the mean time, you mentioned "<Likely have... lost alkaline reserve...>. Could you please explain what this means and what I could do to measure / confirm and correct the problem. <Very often, older systems lose their alkaline reserve in the way of readily soluble substrate (gravel and rock mostly)... Esp. in situations with so much biomass, feeding/processing... I would test for this... and read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and the linked files above... Till you have a gist of what is going on here likely. BobF>