FAQs about Morays Eel Compatibility 2 Related FAQs: Moray Compatibility 1, Moray Compatibility 3, Moray Compatibility 4, Moray Behavior, Moray Eels 1, Moray Eels 2, Moray Identification, Moray Selection, Moray Systems, Moray Feeding, Moray Disease, Moray Reproduction, Zebra Moray Eels, Snowflake Morays, Freshwater Moray Eels, Other Marine Eels, Related Articles: Moray Eels Bite, But Are They Venomous? by Marco Lichtenberger, Moray Eels, Zebra Morays, Snowflake Morays, Ribbon Morays, The "Freshwater" Moray Eels, Freshwater Moray Eels by Marco Lichtenberger, Other Marine Eels,

Re: Skeletor Eel Gymnothorax miliaris and Echidna xanthospilos -- 11/12/09 Dear Marco, <Hello Bill.> The Golden Eel arrived safely, transferred him into my 75 gallon tank where the Skeletor is in. Started this 75 gallon tank last Thursday with 30 gallons from a 125 tank plus 30 gallons from my 125 gallon refugium and 20 gallons of fresh saltwater. Put one of those long filter sponge that was sitting in the 125's sump into the new sump plus added 6 big cups of crushed corals from the same 125 as seeding. The LR came from my 125 refugium (been running for over a year) To clarify, I have a 125 gallon tank with sump plus a refugium that is also 125 gallons that's going to be connected to my 300 gallon tank later. The 75 gallon tank is just for the 2 eels. The 125 will be torn down once the 300 is up and running. <Mmmh'¦ would also make a better home for the eels in the long run as indicated in one of your former mails. The 75 is fine for now, but once these two eels are grown, I think the 125 would be more adequate.> Checked ammonia and nitrite everyday and nothing. So Sunday I moved the Skeletor into the new 75 and today I added the Golden Moray. Added Bio Spira for a 75 gallon tank just in case even though I tested the water before hand and still no ammonia and nitrite or nitrate. Here is the Golden Eel in the bucket. <Nice Gymnothorax miliaris. Thank you very much for sending pictures.> And him in the bag just before going into the tank, he is really yellow and his tail is bright yellow as you can see. <I also like the brown reticulations. There are all kinds of variations between purely yellow (without any brown) and brown eels with only yellow spots.> Here they are together, no issues. <Good to hear.> Feeding the Skeletor, the Golden Eel almost got into a tug of war with the Skeletor so I fed him too. He ate 2 silversides. Isn't it great? Ate hours after introducing him into the tank just like the Skeletor. <Very nice!> I'll drill many holes on the plastic part of the top so it can ventilate. <Good, but I'd also think about a skimmer'¦ will be helpful for sure.> Take care, Bill <Cheers, Marco.>

Re Live Rock/Cleaning/Now Moray Eel/Systems/Compatibility 9/25/09
<Hi Matt>
I have taken your advice and read all of the material possible including all of the questions about Snowflake Moray's.
<Good.>
I am still somewhat unclear. Just a couple questions and I will let you be on your way.
<Going nowhere today.>
First, I see some conflicting opinions on how large an aquarium would be fine for these creatures. I have a 4' long 55 gal that some say is fine for the eel (as low as 40 gal) and others think that it is just not large enough. Second, I see that the Snowflake Moray, if fed properly, will not bother other tankmates. However, there seem to be some mixed opinions on this also. I currently have 2 common clownfish in my system. If I added the eel and fed it properly, should they be okay? Some say yes, but some say absolutely not.
<The Snowflake Moray Eel is safe to house with any fish it cannot easily swallow. If your "common clownfish" are Amphiprion ocellaris, they likely would not be safe.>
And third, it looks like the Zebra Moray may end up a bit shorter in length than the snowflake,
<Where did you read this? Not true.>
but seems like from what I have read that they would need a larger tank than mine even though they may be even more compatible with my clowns.
<Most captive specimens of Snowflake Morays rarely exceed 24", as for the Zebra Moray, can exceed 4 feet in length if conditions permit. Although the Zebra Moray is the more docile of the two, your tank is much to small
for housing one long term. The Snowflake Moray would be the better choice in this regard. Moray Eels are huge waste producers and an efficient and properly maintained filter is required. Placing eels in smaller systems
creates escape behavior, and a tight fitting cover must be used or you will find your eel on the floor one morning.>
Any additional info for me would be greatly appreciated. Like I said, I promise that I did read over everything and educated myself to the best of my ability before asking you these questions. Thanks again for your help with this.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Matt

Question for the experts -- Pseudechidna brummeri; comp. -- 09/04/09 Hi my name is Carolyn and I have a Ghost white ribbon eel. <Hi Carolyn.> I know I have read plenty but I have had great luck with him eating. <Great to hear.> That is the exact opposite of my problem, HE EATS EVERYTHING! I had my original Damsels in the tank but they disappear as did my sisters Coral beauty, a Clown fish, couple Chromis etc. <You do feed your eel frozen food, too? Pseudechidna brummeri, the White ribbon eel or Ghost eel belongs to the partly piscivorous species. If your tank and its filtration are sufficient, choose larger, high or deep bodied tank mates, which are mostly calm and peaceful. A large (!) Marine Betta, a Miniata grouper or even a calm Tang should work depending on tank size, maybe even a peaceful (!) trigger (see WWM re). I would not add fishes smaller than 4-5 inches.> I was considering a Lion fish but am timid. I ask the people at the local fish store and they say, "oh yeah that's fine" to everything. <It may work for you and it does work for many people, but personally I am no big fan of the Lion fish / moray eel combination, because a few morays have been stabbed to death by Lion fish, and some morays (larger species than yours) have killed Lion fish. If you choose a Lion for your Ghost eel prefer smaller species (6-9 inches) and avoid the large ones especially P. volitans.> I am now seeking more help since his eating is getting expensive. <Another alternative to be considered is keeping the eel on its own and having a separate tank for the small fishes.> Thank you for any help. ~Carolyn <Welcome. Marco.>

Eel Compatibility 8/21/09
Hey guys,
<Jess>
I've been reading over a lot of your articles on eels (particularly the snowflake eel) as I've recently become fascinated with eels. I also recently discovered the existence of the golden dwarf eel and have taken a liking to it. Unfortunately, no matter what I type into the search box I can't seem to find what I'm looking for in the way of compatibility.
I would like to know if in any way a golden dwarf eel can be compatible with a snowflake eel? While I have done considerably more research on the snowflake eel and have seen compatibility charts on it, I'm still curious as to whether or not these two could be compatible or the worst case of the odd couple that ever lived (if only for a few moments before one, likely the golden, getting destroyed).
If not compatible, do you know what other fish and or other eels get along with the golden dwarf?
<The important factor you left out is tank size. Yes, these eels could co-exist if the tank is large enough. Eels need lairs to call home, and to stage their attacks. Plenty of room should be available for such so there
is no fighting for real estate. A minimum of a 60" long tank would be my recommendation. I do not know if you are aware of prices for Golden Dwarf Morays, but they run in excess of $300.00. Have you read the FAQ's here on eel compatibility? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/snoflkeelcompfaqs.htm>
Much obliged,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jess

Re Eel Compatibility 8/21/09
I am well aware that the golden dwarf's sometimes sell (often) for $300+.
<Good.>
I do not have a tank and will not likely have one any time soon (never mind one suitable for any type of eel). I have done more research on snowflakes, I know most the common fish recommended to be with them (according to pet supply stores) in roughly 100gal tanks. Sometimes it is only listed that "big aggressive fish" are compatible with them (wow that's unspecific.... so then I guess I could throw in a great white shark and the eel would LOVE that idea? [sarcasm]).
<The Golden Dwarf Moray is more forgiving in that regard. Folks have kept them with smaller fish with no problems.>
I have read a good deal of your available FAQ info on the Snowflakes, and have noticed the common "if the fish is too small he may try to eat it" and "they WILL eat crustaceans" themes. From what I could muster up on Golden Dwarf Eels I've seen that they have very small mouths but may try to eat larger looking fish "like gobies" and may succeed in their attempt.
<You may want to view this compatibility chart provided by Drs Foster/Smith website.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/compatibility_chart.cfm. It is reasonably accurate.>
I'm not 100% savvy on all there is to know on caring for eels but I do have some prior experience in tending and aquarium and have spent time studying marine biology to some extent. Off the top of my head I can't say what other fish I'd possibly consider throwing in as pets with 2 eels, but the eels would be the main inhabitants (definitely no lionfish). It's kind of a future aspect that I and my boyfriend are planning for an "eventual future". I understand that the eels may begin to eat the fish within time unless they are more dangerous (the aforementioned lionfish). So this might just be an eel tank with the occasional live prey
thrown in (nothing like minnows, goldfish, or rosy reds though, I'll try to find live small marine fish).
<Supermarket frozen shrimp with no additives is a good food.>
You mentioned 1 tank dimension, but what size (gallon wise) would you suggest if I were to try to have a golden dwarf and a snowflake coexist peacefully, and not have to worry about looking in one day to find "golden surprise" and a full snowflake eel.
<Eels are hearty eaters and produce a great deal of waste. Because of this, a well-established aquarium and very good water filtration system is highly recommended. Since you have no tank at present, I'd consider getting a 120 gallon. Not that they actually need that much room, but water parameters will remain more stable in lieu of the large amount of waste they produce. A good protein skimmer is a must have for an eel system.>
Many thank again for the speedy replies,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jess

Re Eel Compatibility 8/22/09
Thank you very much, James.
<You're welcome.>
The information is very helpful. I look forward to one day possibly get this system set up and enjoying the eels for many years. (As it turns out you can sometimes buy golden dwarves for around $150, not bad!)
<A bargain, since they are rarely seen in the wild, which contributes to their high cost.>
Thanks for all the info,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jess

Muraena pavonina... comp. -- 08/05/09
Hi, I have a 90G tank, and I have a 2feet Muraena pavonina in it, and his just all alone right now.
<Good decision.>
But can I keep some fish with him?
<Sure, but chances are good they will be eaten, killed or at least bitten.>
I think that some Chromis viridis maybe would be a meal to the moray?
<Yes.>
I think some tangs would be a good tank mates?
<I don't. Tangs will likely be bitten/eaten if small and if large they will not feel comfortable in a system of this size.>
Another question: Would he bite me if I nearer me ?
<Probably yes. Human limbs in moray eel tanks are never a good idea. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morayeelbitesart.htm .>
It's because he has overturned all the stone in the aquarium (I think I would happen :S )
<Use a tool to rearrange the rocks. Next time construct a stable reef (concrete, cable wraps) with caves before adding a moray.>
I have before try Snowflake eel and Goldentail eel ( Gymnothorax miliaris ) but they both was much smaller than this!
<But they will reach a similar size when adult. Both are no adequate tankmates for this eel by the way.>
And maybe you can give me some other info about this eel, I can´t find some info somewhere else.
<Search WWM for 'Brazilian dragon moray' (a common name for this species) and "Muraena pavonina", you'll find quite some information. If you can read German there's a small book about morays covering this species ("Muränen im Meerwasseraquarium") and the German magazine 'Koralle' also had an article about this species and its aquarium care in its April/May 2009 issue. Feel free to ask if anything remains uncovered. I have imported this species in the past and keep them since several years.>
Its a really a pretty eel ! :)
<Yes, but unusually aggressive even for a moray.>
I'm very sorry about my English :S
<No problem. I'm no native speaker either.>
Best regards Alexander
<Welcome. Marco.>
RE: Muraena pavonina
Hi Marco, thanks fore you answer :)
it helps a lot. Best regards. Alexander.
<You are welcome. Marco.>

Eel aggression and ID -- 07/29/09 My name is Terry and I'm from FL, I have wrote to you in the past and you have provided great advice. <Thanks Terry.> I am a great fan of your web site and I must say you provide the best accurate advice. I purchased a 12-16 inch moray eel about a month ago (Gymnothorax pictus, I think that is what it is). <As noted in the last email it is a Gymnothorax eurostus (Stout moray, Salt'n Pepper Moray, Abbott's moray). Beware, the G. pictus is also called Pepper moray, but is a different species. Your eel definitely is a Gymnothorax eurostus, head shape, eye size and location, what can be seen of dentition and coloration (several color morphs are known of this species) are indicative.> I have it in a 100 gal with a 4" clown trigger and a 4" undulated trigger. It seems to be doing very well, it is always out day and night. It is always swimming though the tank. My question is, when I feed my two triggers my eel gets extremely aggressive, I mean it takes the food out of the triggers mouth, attacks them and just gets really nasty, is that normal? <Somewhat: yes. Could easily be the other way round. As noted in earlier correspondence: I would not vouch for any of your fish to leave the other two in peace in the long run. Your eel is a fish and crustacean eater, and in addition your triggers are not the peaceful side of the spectrum.> Last night I feed my clown a piece of clam strippers and my eel swam out of a cave and crabbed my clowns head and tried to swallow it. It let go and my fish seems to be fine ( still eating and not acting strangers, no marks) but is that a sign that I need to feed more? I'm feeding like every other day and sometimes every other couple days. Any advice would be once again highly appreciated. <You would likely reduce its activities when feeding much more, but feeding too much for longer times will not be healthy for your eel. Too fast growth and fatty liver disease are among common reasons for moray eels dying in captivity.> Thank you, Terry. <Your options are basically: see if the unwanted behavior changes with time when feeding a little more or separating them. Cheers, Marco.>

Re: Eel aggression 7/30/09 Thank you once again, I'll try feeding a little more and see what happens. <You are welcome Terry. Good luck. Marco.>

Stocking, FO - 7/6/09
I need some advice. I have a 75 gallon aggressive tank. I have a snowflake moray, a banded moray, a panther grouper, a niger trigger, a yellow tang ,and some stars. I know its a lot; I will be upgrading to a 300 gallon
soon. I want to add a tesselata moray and a zebra moray to the tank (the 300 gal.), but I can't find information about putting eels together. Will these 4 eels go together. Is a 300 gallon big enough? I read something
about a tesselata attacking another eel-does this happen often? I can't find much info on a banded moray at all. Any information you can give me will be help. Thank you very much.---Amber
<Amber, this will be far more than a 300 should hold, and desperately beyond the means of a 75 gallon. Compatibility and crowding aside as predators these are large, meat-eating creatures with relatively
inefficient digestive systems- they produce a tremendous amount of waste.
Water quality will be very, very hard to maintain in either aquarium with this much stock. Do read the related articles here on WWM re: stocking, and begin looking for ways to think your overcrowded tank before disease
does it for you.>
<Best of luck, Benjamin>

Koke/Reticulate Hookjaw Moray -- 05/19/09
Hi there,
<Hello Pat.>
Thanks first for the (almost) endless supply of helpful info on your site....you've really guided me along over the past six years.
<Thanks for your kind words.>
At any rate, after spending quite a while looking, I've located an E. lichenosa, the Reticulate Hookjaw Moray. I was wondering if anyone there has had any experience with this species.
<Is seen/available on the stocklists sometimes, but rarely ordered. Is sometimes kept, esp. in Asia. What are your specific questions on this species?>
I currently have a Japanese Dragon and a Kidako Moray in the same take (150 gallon) and, as they come from the same region and are all roughly the same size, don't think there will be an issue. Nonetheless, I wanted to see if any of you have had any experience to share.
<This species is sometimes found with other morays in the wild. What you are trying might work, although a larger tank would be preferable. >
Thanks! Pat C.
<Cheers, Marco.>

Re: Koke/Reticulate Hookjaw Moray 05/20/09
Hi Marco,
<Hello Pat.>
Thanks for your quick reply. The tank is a 'cube', one of the new 3x3's from AGA; in terms of space I felt it can accommodate several small-med morays, and I intentionally over-built the filtration with an EV-240, fluidized bed and 58 gallons of sump with LR, DSB, Caulerpa and a trickle filter at least 150 lbs of LR in the tank...I typically read double zeros and ultra low nitrates (below 20ppm)...is there an issue I'm not thinking of?
<Territoriality depending much on personality (the larger the tank, the more caves you can build in a way they will have their own small territories to retreat to if they want to, especially when older), growth with age'¦ my choice for these 3 eels would have been about twice this size (or separate systems), but that does not mean your approach would definitely not work, but maybe you should have some options available if trouble starts -- just in case (maybe you already do as your filtration system sounds already good).>
I've been mulling over an upgrade to a tank that can accommodate epaulette sharks but wasn't thinking of moving the eels from the tank they are in.
<Mixing eels with shark is not always a good idea'¦>
I guess my question was in reference to the behavior or survival rate of the animal...
<Very good, seem to live for decades, at least in public aquaria. Behaviour is similar to other Gymnothorax and Enchelycore species, they are generally not too aggressive towards other eels (still more than an average Echidna).>
why are they ordered so seldom?
<From talking to traders: nobody wants them, because they need large tanks and are generally seen as less desirable than E. pardalis. Same story for the other Enchelycore...>
I assumed it would be similar to the E. pardalis I already have, and it's easily as attractive as the Kidako that commands roughly the same prices.
<Beauty is in the eye of the beholder (I like them, too).>
If there is limited experience out there I'd love to share mine with you guys for the site.
<We'd certainly appreciate that.>
One last question, more out of curiosity...have you seen the Mosaic Moray (E. ramosa) or the Fangtooth (E. anatina) offered, or had any experience?
<Yes, both need colder water temperatures (about 18-22°C) and were not offered in trade, but caught by fishermen. And'¦ especially the E. ramosa gets significantly larger than an E. pardalis, expect 5 feet in the long run.>
Thanks again, Pat C.
<Welcome and I'm looking forward to read about your experiences. Marco.>

Re: Koke/Reticulate Hookjaw Moray 05/20/09
Hello again Marco,
<Hi Pat.>
Thanks again for the quick reply. I've got a 72 bow standing by should there be an emergency...
<I see'¦ very well prepared.>
the Kidako and Dragon get along swimmingly (pun intended), so I've got my fingers crossed for the Koke.
<Me too.>
In my experience (almost entirely with Gymnothorax sp.) larger morays display less defensive/territorial aggression than their juvenile counterparts, but I'm sure that experience is more limited than yours.
<There are certainly more experienced people than me, but in my opinion it certainly depends on the species and also the personality of the eel (being mostly the experiences it has made). I can name several coincidences where juveniles got along, but started fighting after years'¦ this might be related to a gender change many morays have with possibly the larger males showing more territoriality towards their own and even other species.>
I've also had good luck with eels and sharks, but in much larger systems, and perhaps some of it was indeed simple luck.
<It can work, I know several cases, too, but almost an equal number of failures with morays badly biting the sharks and vice versa. Therefore, it's hard to make general statements except expressing caution.>
Good call on ramosa and anatina...I did know that they both get larger than the three above, but didn't see the cold water issue. If I ever came across either they'd make for a really cool (pun not intended this time) cold water/subtropic setup.
<Oh yes, certainly.>
I'll send you my impressions with pictures (hopefully of all three eels poking out of the same cave) in a few weeks. The Koke arrives tomorrow. Thanks, Pat C.
<I have yet to see such a picture. Looking forward to it, good luck! Marco.>

Re: Koke/Reticulate Hookjaw Moray; 05/22/09
Marco,
<Pat.>
So it has been a long and fairly anxious day for me, but the E. lichenosa has been acclimated and introduced to his new surroundings. He's large; some 4-6" longer than the dragon, and the head structure is very different, much longer with broader laws. He spent about six hours curled up in a nook in the back of the tank before finally roaming around for the past hour or so and has sniffed out the dragon (and likewise)...they both seem cautious but I don't see signs of territoriality or aggression at the moment.
<So far, so good. Let's see how they do when they have settled in with their new configuration.>
The Kidako is doesn't seem to notice despite being thoroughly sniffed out and hasn't moved from the spot he picked out this morning. I'm resisting the urge to take pictures at the risk of a King Kong type incident.
<Wouldn't expect that'¦>
I'll get them out next week or so.
<Fine. It would be interesting to know how they get along in the long run (weeks, months, years.>
Oh and Peggy at All-Reef says "Hi Bob" if you wouldn't mind passing that along when he returns.
<I'm sure he'll read.><<Hi Peggy! RMF>>
Thanks! Pat C.
<Cheers, Marco.>

Multiple Dragon Moray Tank 03/05/09 Hey crew, <Hi Joe.> I assume this will go to Marco. Hey bud, hope all is well. <Sure, everything's fine. Thanks.> After speaking with you in the past about a Tesselata tank I think I have officially given up on keeping one of these monsters, just can't justify that big of a tank and those huge water changes for just the single eel. So I'm writing today to inquire about my plan B. I'm considering this plan in my existing 240g or downsizing to a 180g (preferred). Can a Dragon Moray (Enchelycore pardalis) and a Brazilian Horned aka Whitespot Moray (Muraena pavonina) be kept together in a 180g? <In terms of water pollution, space required: yes, but with regard to their character this can become problematic. Almost all M. pavonina I had with other eels became aggressive towards their tank mates including morays at some point. The E. pardalis can be quite comparable in the long run... or stay quite peaceful.... hit and miss.> I'm thinking of these 2 eels and one display fish (maybe a Queen or Emperor Angel) <May be attacked, interpreted as a big piece of food, may not be able to hide from the morays. Probably should placed in before the morays to become dominant while the eels are still freshmen.> along with a variety of Damsels/Chromis/Clowns for activity/food/color. Think this is a feasible tank? <Possible... but you should be prepared that one eel may have to be removed at some point. Both should have the same size and be put into the tank together. Lots of caves will also help to reduce territorial behaviour.> I would of course have a HUGE skimmer <Yes.> and wet/dry on it. <Not necessary in my opinion, I'd rather invest into good live rock and power heads.> Thanks for any thoughts or ideas or better main fish for a tank like this. <What you plan can be done... may fail... will definitely depend on the character of the two eels. Other moray combinations have higher chances for success: Zebra eel, Snowflake eel, Banded moray (E. polyzona), Mexican dragon (M. lentiginosa), Chainlink, Goldentail, White eyed morays (G. thyrsoideus and griseus) are easier choices that can be kept together. A divider would be another visually less attractive option or limiting yourself to just one of the desired species (one specimen or a mated pair).> Joe
<Cheers, Marco.>

Re: Koke/Reticulate Hookjaw Moray 05/27/09 Marco, Here are a couple encouraging pics...unfortunately my photography is not. Hopefully I can get a friend over to take better ones, but regardless, have seen no signs of aggression. Thanks, Pat <Thank you very much Pat for sending the pictures. Am glad to read and see it works out so well so far and do hope it will remain like this in the future. Cheers, Marco.>

Moray, comp. repeat 2/14/09 Hey WWM crew, I got another 75g tank that is going to be another moray tank, so far I have a 9" fimbriated moray that is going to go in there, is there another eel that I can add and keep both for life? Is a jeweled moray or Brazilian dragon moray a good choice? <Please see http://www.wetwebmedia.com/moraycompfaqs.htm and scroll down to "Moray eel comp. 2x75g+30g sump - 01/22/09", where the same question already was answered. Marco.>

Snowflake eel and Niger Trigger Relationship - 02/12/09 Hello WWM Crew, <Hi Michelle> First of all I recently upgraded my a 75gal aquarium to a 125gal and was quite successful with some help from you. In my 125 I have a 5" snowflake, 3" Tomato Clown, 4" Arc-eye Hawkfish, 3.5" Panther Grouper, 4" Lunare Wrasse and a BTA. <The trigger and its size seem to be missing in this list.> Yes I am aware that the grouper will grow quite large and will potentially try to eat some tank mates when he gets bigger. <Yes.> I have crushed coral as substrate about 150lbs live rock, 4 powerheads, skimmer, and 180w 10,000K and 180w Actinic lighting. Should I upgrade lighting for the anemone? <Should be sufficient in my opinion, especially if it chooses a higher spot in the tank as residence. You'll see how the anemone develops given you have a sufficient water quality.> Ok, so on to my question... The snowflake and the Trigger have began to share an area in the tank. The eel hides in a large round piece of rock with an opening about the size of the Trigger. The Trigger will go up to the opening and hang out so he blocks the hole. The eel will poke his head out near the Triggers head and will just sit there. They almost seem to be cuddling. Neither seem to mind each other at all, but are extremely territorial towards all their other tankmates. I have attached a few photos so you can see, a couple are blurry but they really captured them cuddling. There is a picture of the tank itself, the rock they have been under is the one that is in the center of the tank. So, should this behavior concern me? <No, not at all. Most triggers prefer a spot for sleeping like a narrow gap or cave where they can use their trigger. I hope such spots are available, if so, I see no problem.> Is it "normal" for triggers and eels to share areas and actually get along? <Happens, but the exact opposite of triggers harassing morays by biting their fins or larger morays ripping pieces out of triggers also occur.> We are quite baffled by this one, I hope you can give us some insight on what we think is a strange occurrence. <More tolerance and acceptance than friendship using human terminology. In nature morays are more often found co-existing with congers or groupers, even communicating with the latter ones and hunting together with them. So, some social behaviour is not too surprising, especially not within the limited choices of an aquarium.> Thank you all, Michelle <Welcome. Marco.>

"Me and my snowflake eel; we got a relationship"

Moray eel comp. 2x75g+30g sump - 01/22/09 Hey WWM Crew, <Hi.> quick question if you don't mind helping me out. I'm plumbing another 75g into my existing 75g tank with 30g sump/fuge. In my existing tank I have a chain link moray and a spotted moray. I found a 7" fimbriated moray that I want to add to the new 75g and was wondering if I could add a Mexican or Brazilian dragon moray for his tank mate? <Both options given by you are possible tank mates. Remember the Mexican dragon eel stays 1 ft smaller than the G. fimbriatus (longest confirmed specimen had 3 ft.), so you may have to remove one when the G. fimbriatus has reached its adult size in 4-6 years. Also, the Brazilian dragon moray (up to 28 inches) is much more aggressive and may not tolerate the G. fimbriatus in this rather small tank. The Brazilian moray should not be larger than the fimbriated cousin when introduced. Also, you may run into trouble with the G. moringa, which I assume is your spotted moray (many species are called with this common name), when it significantly outgrows the Chainlink E. catenata. It's possible one needs to be removed in the long run.> If that is not a good choice, what would you suggest? I'm mainly into eels/aggressive fish. <Personally I'd not add a second eel to a 75 gallon with a G. fimbriatus (or a G. moringa) if these were my tanks without the option to remove one at the first signs of psychological stress or declining water quality.> Thanks for your time. <Welcome. Marco.>

Moray Eel compatibility - 01/10/09 Hi. <Hello Alex.> I have a 90 gallon tank with a Jeweled moray that's about 1 ft. long. Would it be possible to have another species of eel in the tank like a chain link? <Yes, as long as you have sufficient filtration, especially a good skimmer, no other fish and you do regular water changes this would be possible.> They both get about 2 ft. <No, the E. catenata gets larger, at least 80 cm (2.7 ft) in captivity. Still, this is a good choice.> and my tank has 125 lbs. of live rocks with no coral or invertebrates. Any suggestions on what kind of eel would work would be great. <The E. catenata is a good choice, more peaceful than the M. lentiginosa, but also a little longer and at least equally strong and therefore capable to stand its ground. Other common available possibilities would include a Snowflake moray (E. nebulosa), a Zebra moray (G. zebra) or Goldentail (G. miliaris). Simply avoid thin species like Ribbon eels, large species like Tesselata eels, Green morays, Purple, White or Yellow mouth, Spotted or Undulated morays, small species like Dwarf morays or Richardson's eels and potentially aggressive medium sized species like Brazilian or Hawaiian dragon morays and the various Blackedge eels. See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm and the FAQs on compatibility and choose rather peaceful species between 60 cm and about 80 cm. The new specimen should be slightly larger than your jewel moray to help it settling in, a re-decoration will also help to avoid aggression. Anyway, the first hours and feedings should be watched by you armed with a net.> Thanks for your help! Alex <Welcome. Marco.>

Re: Moray Eel compatibility. - 01/11/09 Hi it's Alex again. If I have 4 other smaller fish would it still be a smart idea to get another small eel? <I'd be concerned with overstocking if you want to have other fishes with your eel that are large enough to be safe from it in the long run. 2 eels as discussed in the last emails can work in your 90 gallon tank, but depending on what other fishes you keep, this might be too much. I'd only consider a second eel if you can keep the nitrates permanently below 15 ppm now.> They're all peaceful and don't bother the Jeweled moray. <An adult M. lentiginosa can be a threat to many fishes up to 20 cm (8 inches). It will be at least 8 times heavier as your 1 foot specimen is now. Good luck with your endeavour whatever you decide to do. Marco. >

Re: Moray Eel compatibility - 02/17/09, from 1/11 Thank you so much for the help. <Welcome.> I ended up getting an 8 in Chainlink (I thought it would be bigger) <Mmh.. yes bigger than your M. lentiginosa would have been better. Hope it works nonetheless.> and I've had it for about four days. He jumped in my filter and was stuck for two days and is ok. The eels haven't fought even though they've gotten within biting distance of each other. <Stay attentive.> Thanks for the advice! Alex <Good luck and have fun with your eels. Marco.>

Tesselata Eel/Housing/Compatibility 01/01/09 Hello WWM Crew! <Hi Josh> I have a 150g saltwater tank measuring 72L-18W-27H. My local fish store has a Tesselata Eel measuring around 8-9 inches. My question is if I was to keep this eel along with a handful of damsels or chromis, would it house the eel for its lifetime? <You're Joshing me, correct? :)> If not when would I need to upgrade to a larger tank in order to maintain optimum conditions for the Tesselata? Also, I have 150 lbs of liverock now, should I use less in an eel species tank or maybe epoxy them together? Thanks for your time and have a Happy New Year! <Your tank would be large enough, but Tesselata Eel (Honeycomb Moray) is very predatory and will eat any fish it can swallow. Is best to keep this fish by itself with a tight fitting cover. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm James (Salty Dog)> Josh

Eel on Diver's Den. Muraena ID, comp. 12/20/08 Hi Crew, and Happy Holidays <Hello Kirk.> Diver's Den has had what they term a "West-African Horned Baby Moray Eel" (7 inches, but they have had it over a month), they are saying Muraena melanotis <Correct, I've seen this species on this page.> which if I am not mistaken is typically the Brazilian Dragon Moray? <No, these are mostly Muraena pavonina, a much smaller species. The name Brazilian dragon moray has been used for M. melanotis in the past, too, a typical problem with common names. I am aware there is an awful lot of misinformation on this group of Muraena species (M. pavonina, M. melanotis, M. retifera and even M. lentiginosa) in hobby and even scientific literature (even Michael, Debelius?). Let me know if there are any questions on their ID or taxonomic status, I've dealt with them in detail in the past and still keep M. pavonina.> Do you think this would make a decent community Moray? <Hehe? no. They get well over 1 m and as thick as a strong arm. Really voracious eaters when settled in and healthy. Think of them as being quite similar to G. favagineus or G. undulatus in terms of character, basically its the same ecological niche this species fills in the tropical, mostly Eastern Atlantic.> I have a 8 foot 240 with the following...Sohal Tang, Asfur and Coral Beauty, Sunset Wrasse & Harlequin Tusk, Sargassum & Redtooth Triggers. The Coral Beauty might be a worry as the Eel grows older (I could put him in my other tank), other than that do you think this Eel would work? I have heard favorable results with the Brazilians in "aggressive community set-ups". <With M. melanotis, the possible loss of the sunset wrasse and the coral beauty is obvious. But even the larger fish may be bitten, ripped apart. I cannot completely exclude it might work, it depends a lot on the temper of this specific eel, but I would not be willing to take the risk.> Would I be better off to look for a Jeweled Moray (Muraena lentiginosa)? <Yes, MUCH better.> I am still a little confused on the difference between melanotis and lentiginosa as I have gotten conflicting info. <Yes, I've been there. M. lentiginosa has smaller hornlike rear nasal tubes, its yellow spots are bordered by a dark rim and it has tiny hair like structures on the top of its head. M. melanotis has white spots on a dark grey background and the longer horns are generally more white (due to white spots) than black. If you still feel unsure you, can always send a picture prior to purchase.> Appreciate any help, Kirk <One of my favourite topics. Cheers, Marco.>

Hitchhiker Crab and Dwarf Morays, comp.s 12/02/08 Hello, <Hi Paul.> I recently ordered two Gymnothorax melatremus (Golden Dwarf Moray) and plan on putting at least one of them in an established 58 US gallon reef aquarium. Would it be advisable to put both eels in the same aquarium as they are not actually a mated pair? <Preferable, sometimes found as pairs in nature. Your two may become a pair and should only be separated if they start to fight severely, which is less probable even if they have the same gender.> If not I can place them in separate tanks easily. <I'd leave this option if fights should start. In this case one will more easily be caught with net.> My second question concerns a Xanthid crab that I recently found in the 58 gallon reef. More specifically, I found a molted carapace approximately one inch across along with claws and other bits of old crab exoskeleton. Will this crab pose a danger to the eel(s) if I put them in the tank before I can capture the crab? <If the eels are at least 6" they should rather be a danger to the crab. If they are significantly smaller I'd catch the crab with a crab trap just for peace of mind.> I already believe he has killed fish in the tank as a pair of Banggai cardinals went completely missing several months ago. I did read somewhere that golden dwarf morays would eat invertebrates, but would one be able to take down a crab of this size? <Depends on their size, physical condition, crabs are their favourite food. Healthy specimens of 6" should be safe, only dead/dying small eels (this reclusive and expensive species is sometimes caught with poison) may become crab food. I've seen relatively small morays tearing off pinchers of crabs they could not eat as a whole. They are able to tie a knot into their body and pull their head and the prey item through the knot.> In any case the morays will go into a quarantine tank, at least until I hear back from you. <Okay.> Many thanks, Paul. <Welcome. Marco.>

Golden Dwarf Moray, sel./comp. 11/15/08 Hello <Hi Alison.> After reading your site for hours and learning a lot of new things, I still have a problem I just know that you guys will be able to help me with. I have fallen in love with pictures of those cute little golden dwarf morays but am unsure if he would be well suited to either of the two tanks I currently have set up. I would like to know your advice as to which tank he would do better in. Both tanks are reef-style. First I have a 30 gallon tank with a dwarf/zebra lionfish in it. <Depending on its size and the size of the moray it may be able to swallow the eel.> I was also thinking about adding a Longnose hawk to this tank. The second tank is a 90 gallon reef with a 35 gallon refugium. The tankmates in this tank would be two false percula clownfish <Can be eaten if the G. melatremus is grown and the clowns are small.> , a purple tang, 3 flasher wrasses <?may become prey, depending on size.> , 2 mandarin dragonets, <see above.> 3 cleaner shrimp, 2 fire shrimp and a peppermint shrimp <Last but not least the listed shrimps may be (partially) eaten. They are more likely to become prey than the fish unless the latter are still very young.> and some snails. Please let me know your opinion - I really respect the advice you give on your website. Thanks. Alison. <As you see it will somewhat depend on the size of the eel and the possible tankmates. The 30 gallon tank seems better if the lion still is small, but as you may have read in the moray FAQs lionfish are not ideal tankmates for morays, although your combination would be safer than other ones (e.g. with P. volitans). A smaller G. melatremus would fit well into the community tank, but a larger one may be a danger to the shrimps (some recognize them as beneficial cleaners, but not all individuals are that smart) and the fish smaller than about 3-3.5 inches. I hope this will help you with your decision. Marco.>

Eels in a 75G 10/14/08 Hello, <Hi.> I have a 75G moray eel tank with a Chainlink moray and a Whitecheek moray. <The latter is a common name used for Echidna rhodochilus (see http://www.jjphoto.dk/fish_archive/aquarium_salt/echidna_rhodochilus.htm), which only reaches around 1 foot, while the Chainlink (Echidna catenata) get more than 2 times that long and easily 10 times heavier. Is this your eel? Big size differences can result in the larger moray eating the smaller specimen, even with the more peaceful Echidna species.> I am looking to get another eel, either another Chainlnk or maybe a Snowflake moray. What would you suggest on getting and will 3 eels be ok in a 75G? <3 eels could be okay in a 75 gallon tank, if they were smaller species. However, the Chainlink moray will grow to medium size (can reach at least 32 inches, some apparently less reliable sources state even almost twice this) and I would not suggest another eel in this specific tank, especially not before the identity of the Whitecheek moray is clarified, also with regard to the difference in size your two may reach. If you want. you can send a picture for its ID.> Thanks for your time. <Welcome. Marco.>

Re: Eels in a 75 G - 10/16/08 Thanks for the reply, <Welcome.> the white cheek is the one you listed (it's green with white on both sides of mouth) and the Chainlink is the Echidna catenata. Both eels are around 1.5 feet. Would I be better of just letting those 2 eels be happy in the 75g instead of adding another eel? <Yes, and watch out for possible aggression if a size difference develops with time.> thanks in advance. <Cheers. Marco.>

Re: Another Ribbon Eel Question/comment, comp. 8/20/08 Hi Bob, <Brian> Very disappointed to report this but I need your advise <advice> to figure out what happened this weekend. My ribbon eel passed away and I'm trying to decide what to do. <Bury it> My eel was very active of late and would swim about the tank about every hour or so (it never ate when swimming, seemed more curious about the surroundings than anything). It ate whenever a part of it was inside of the pvc maze but never when completely free in the tank. Nothing surprising to me here so far. This Saturday, I came into my living room and saw that my eel was swimming backwards in the tank. <Rhinomuraena... and morays in general, can/do swim in this manner... useful for "backing up" into holes...> I looked closer and saw that it had a huge cut (or tear) on the neck below its gills. It was writhing and tying itself in a knot to pull away from whatever caused the problem. This was painful to watch as I have no idea what happened. It clearly suffered a fatal injury and was trying to spare its life. I moved it to the sump to observe but it died twenty minutes later. I have a few ideas about what happened and could use your advise to narrow the possibilities. Here goes: 1. It somehow swam into my Vortec powerhead. There is a filter blocking the intake, but the output is still open and maybe its head found a way to enter and get the fatal cut. I could put a screen over the output to prevent this from happening in the future. <Mmm, doubtful... the discharge pressure should prevent this, but... maybe a good idea to screen as you say> 2. It got curious about my Coral banded shrimp and got pinched across the neck. The claws of this animal are really strong and if it pulled away while being pinched could have ripped itself open. It was a very clean cut so it still seems probable. <Mmm, maybe...> 3. It aggravated my golden dwarf moray eel. <Oh, a definite possibility here> While there was no food to be fought over, there might be a possibility that my dwarf moray just bit it in defense. the cut was so clean that I doubt that this was the cause. The moray has been very reclusive since I got the ribbon but still ate and never tried to share space with the ribbon eel. Seems unlikely but I'm open to suggestions. <Not a good idea to mix Ribbon Eels with other Muraenids> 4. It tangled with my Purple tang and caught the defense spike on its tail. The tang seemed to ignore it but their tail bones are very sharp. Could this have caused the untimely end. <A smaller possibility> 5. It cut itself on a rock or pipe exploring. Not likely in my mind but still not sure. <Smaller...> 6. Bristle worms or hermit crabs? That's everything else I have. <Nah> I'm so disappointed. I never sent a video of my success and feeding because I thought I'd have more time. I'm prepared to get rid of anything that would impact my future success. Gosh I'm frustrated! <I'd be separating/removing the other Moray. Bob Fenner>