Re: Mixing in a Moray - 11/02/06
Hi Bob,
<<Eric here, stepping in for Bob who as you might be aware, is out diving the globe with "off-again on-again" net connectivity>>
Thanks for the reply.  Was also wondering if a 210 would be too small for a Tesselata or could he live comfortably in it even when he reaches full size?
<<Would be fine for a while, but these eels can exceed 10 feet in length (becoming very aggressive in the process)...it would warrant more than a six-foot tank at maturity, in my opinion>>
Also how do you find puffers (dogface in particular) get along with lions?  Some people say they do great and others say the puffers just chew all their spines off and beat them up.  I know puffers like to pick at things but in general do they get along together with lions?
<<Not a good mix.  I see many instances where hobbyists are having problems with lionfish, and lo and behold, there's a puffer in the tank>>
Thanks again for any info you can help me with.
<<Pleased to share.  Eric Russell>>

Marine eels in brackish waters question   8/18/06
Hello I was hoping you could tell me exactly what happens to a juvenile moray that wonders into brackish water gets caught and winds up in a
live fish store and sold as a brackish water eel and grows up and stays in brackish water? Would this in of itself kill them?
<Mmm, well... some species are notably more euryhaline in their tolerance... some even venturing into/out of marine/freshwater circumstances as part of their "natural" life cycle... But most Muraenids kept in too "fresh" water suffer the ill effects... renal/kidney failure, premature blindness...>
I saw an eel in a store called a panther eel that I had identified as a jewel moray and it would eventually need to be in a marine setting. They
also had another moray they called a tiger eel. I researched and the closest I came up with was a species called Muraena helena also known as a tiger eel.
<Gorgeous animals>
The markings on what I saw looked like what a tiger Oscar has. Does this sound like anything you maybe aware of?
<Yes>
I would rather have this tiger eel but if he will die  staying in brackish water than it would be a waste of my time and the poor eel's life. Thank you.
<See fishbase.org for more/better pix, identification, environmental input. Bob Fenner>

Creating a Moray Habitat   8/11/06
I'm currently working on the plumbing of a 215G aquarium which will have a Goldentail Moray as one of the residents.  I would like to arrange the aquascaping so that, hopefully, I have created a hole or cave that the moray will  prefer to reside that is easily viewable.
<Sounds great!>
I would hate to set the tank up to find that the Moray has found a hole, in the back corner of the aquarium, where he  won't be seen.  I like the idea of using the pvc pipe to create a tunnel from one end of the aquarium to the other, which when then aquascaped with live  rock, would look like a natural hole.  
<Anthony Calfo has suggested a similar tunnel in his "Book of Coral Propagation"; I've seen this done a few times and it looks really cool!>
I wonder if, however, a 4' tunnel of pvc pipe would end up having an accumulation of debris that ends up being a nitrate factory, especially given that there would not be any water flow through the pipe?  Regular cleaning would be a pain given the live rock and sand that would be sitting on and around the piping.  I like the coral covered pots that are seen in public displays of morays, sort of like what one might find on a reef near a shipwreck.  But I have not been able to locate any pots labeled as
aquarium safe for sale.  Any idea where these can be found at, or what type of pot would be safe for a marine tank?  Thank you for any suggestions. Kevin          
<Umm...I'm not 100% certain on that one. I'd go for a glazed ceramic, myself, sealed somehow. Perhaps you should check out a source like Aquatic Eco Systems and see if they offer a paint or sealant for ceramic pottery that is saltwater safe. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

Aquascape... Mixing crab-eating morays, using a Jeweled Damsel from the TWA, Moray system/s, acclimating new livestock...   8/3/06
Morning,
<Now the afternoon here... Yikes, got to "kick out the jams"... whatever that means>
Just a quick question... or at least they always start out that way.  I'm looking at doing a 200gallon predator tank that will include both a snowflake and zebra moray eel, a Russel lionfish, and a couple of others.
From reading your FAQ's, it sounds like in that large of an aquarium the two morays should be ok together?  
<These two species, likely so>
I also just bought a jeweled damsel on the advice of on of your FAQ's... since this fish will eventually get to be around 6", a good fish to cycle my new 200gallon tank and should be ok with a lion and the morays?
<Mmm, likely okay to cycle, will get along>
My damsel is pretty brown looking with the diamonds on his back... does this sound like a jeweled damsel to you?
<Of mid-size/age... okay>
Anyhow, my question.... Ok, my third question?   With a fish only tank, I'm thinking a crushed coral bottom hiding a small network of 3"pvc piping to create a more interesting habitat for the morays.  The pipe will open up in a two or three caves that I will make.  Sound like a good idea?
<Shore>
I just hope that a) a fish won't get down there and gobbled by the eel
<Mmm, the two species listed are largely non-piscivorous... see WWM re Foods/Feeding/Nutrition of these two... I have penned, placed articles re...>
or  b) something big doesn't die down there.  Would be pretty nasty disassembling my aquascape to remove the pipes to get a dead eel out.  Your opinion?  
<Sounds pretty nasty>
The real question is (this is number 4, isn't it?) am I ok using a nice black/grey slate to build up the backside of my tank and for the caves?
<I wouldn't use slate in marine systems... too two-dimensional with all the drawbacks of same... too likely to have some chemically negative effect>
I was thinking of using aquarium poxy to get a nice firm rockwork and like the appearance of slate.  I was also going to use about 100lbs of liverock to get a mixture.  Do you foresee any problems with this?
<Yes>
Just a note on the 'freshwater dip' for new fish.  Sounds simple, but maybe it is me that is simple? Haha.
<?>
  After floating the sealed bag in the tank to get the temperature matching for about 20 min.s, I then open the bag and slowly introduce some tank water via a cup without mixing store water into my tank.  When fish is ready, am I correct in saying simply dip the net with the fish in it into some room temperature fresh water for a couple of seconds and introduce new fish from net into my tank?
<Mmm, one method... not one I'd use. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm and the linked files above.>
Regards,
Dave Brynlund
<Keep reading. Bob Fenner>

Lighting, cover/canopy questions   8/1/06
I have a 215G, 29" tall,  aquarium that I would like to set up as a hardy reef, with more of an emphasis on fish.  Really the only corals I plan to keep are a few mushrooms and perhaps a few other corals which can withstand higher nitrates and low lighting.   I would like to keep a radiata lionfish and a smaller moray as two of my few fish, along with perhaps a maroon clown.   I was looking at the 72 Inch Orbit power compact light fixture, which produces 576 watts, and was wondering if this would be enough lighting to enable me to keep
the mushrooms, while not making the lionfish uncomfortable?
<Should work here. Particularly with providing rock overhangs for the Lion to get out of the light>
Would you have a better suggestion concerning the amount of light I should use?
<Mmm, all are posted on WWM>
  Also,  I was wondering what your suggestion would be for the aquarium top since I would need to make it escape proof for the moray.
<A heavy canopy that entirely covers the edges... holes in the top or side for a fan blowing in, one blowing out for heat control>
  I was hoping to do a glass top,
<See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marcanopies.htm
and the linked files above>
I will have a separate sump and refugium which should allow for oxygenation of the water.   How much would the glass top decrease the amount of lighting reaching the aquarium inhabitants?
<Depends on the make-up of the glass and how clean it is kept... can be very little to considerable. Best not to use such a device>
  When people do eggcrate tops, how do they access the tank for fish feeding or other chores without completely removing the eggcrate?
<They do the latter... remove it>
Obviously glass tops have hinged access panels, but I'm not what I would do if using eggcrate.   Thank you for your reply.
Kevin Jackson      
<Read on my friend. Bob Fenner>

- Tessellated Moray 6/27/06 -
I know this question has been rehashed over and over again, but I am going to ask anyway.  I have an opportunity to get a free baby (It is an actual baby, about 9" in length with the juvenile markings) tessellated eel.  Unfortunately the more I have tried to research this eel, the more confused and frustrated I have become.  The site MarineCenter.com say the minimum tank size is 55gal (this can not be true, I know), some resources say they all get to be 10 feet in length, and a LFS that has a 3 foot (approximate) specimen in a large tank (at least 150, it is a custom so hard to judge the actual size) claims that they have had him for a little over a year with little or no growth.  Again, I feel like I know just as much now as when I knew nothing at all about these fish.  My ultimate question I think is this: is a 240gal (72x30x25) a sufficient tank for this fish, and this fish alone (if it can be adequately housed in a smaller tank, or can it have tank mates in the 240 please let me know). <Not long term. I actually just got done working at a fish store that had a 4.5 foot tessellated eel that lived in a 2,000 gallon tank. Now of course, 2,000 gallons is much larger than this fish needed, but it lived there pretty much alone because it had eaten all of its tank mates over the 15 years it lived there. I think that eel would have done fine in anything 500 gallons or larger, but a 240 wouldn't have been quite large enough.>
Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated.
Blake
<Cheers, J -- >

Green moray eel ... sys., beh.   3/15/06
Bob, <James with you today.>  I was hoping you could help me out with a green moray. I recently was given one, the past owner was going to put it down as he could no longer house it. I realize this eel is best left in the sea, <Yes it is.> however since it wasn't I didn't want to see it put down. It has been in captivity for about 6 years and is over 3' long (I think, no way I am trying to measure it) <Scary man, can inflict very nasty bites, very aggressive.> It is currently in a 125, which seems a bit small for it, but since it isn't an active swimmer I wonder if I am ok for now. Here is where I hope to get some guidance.
How fast can I expect it to grow to the max size 8' <All depends on tank size, diet, water quality, etc.  Most rarely exceed six foot in home aquariums.>
Min tank size, and any care info you can give.  <Well, the 125 is too small.  I'd be thinking at least a 220 minimum.  As for diet, they eat most anything, fish included.  Do google our site for more info on care/requirements.>  I realize this will be a huge undertaking, I think I am up for the challenge. I have the space to house such a tank. Just need some guidance. <Don't think I'd want this undertaking, I certainly wouldn't want to clean that tank with my hands in the water.:)  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks  <You're welcome>

Stocking Level/Merry Christmas  - 03/12/2006
Hi-<Hello John.>
I was wondering if I would be able to put a small snowflake eel in my 30 gallon tank. This eel in the LFS is no longer than a pencil. The tank is 30" long and is equipped with a 9 watt uv, Skilter 250 modified skimmer, ProClear model 60 wet dry filter, 5 Rio 600, and 30 pounds of porous live rock. The other inhabitants would be an ocellaris clownfish and watchman goby. Are these fish compatible? <At this stage they would be.> The eel would only be in the 30 gallon for about a year, then would be transferred to a 55 or 70 gallon tank next
x-mas. Would the eel be ok? <I wouldn't.  That eel will soon outgrow the 30 gallon tank.  Wait until Christmas.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks  <You're welcome.>

Moray Aquascaping   1/14/06
Hello, hope everything is well.
<Fine, thank you.>                                            
I'm  a newcomer to having a marine aquarium (had many freshwater) and I'm trying to set it up thinking ahead.
<A good thing.>
  The tank is a 240g 70LX24WX31H with  more than adequate filtration, that's not my concern.
<You sure you don't want an overview, critique since you are new?>
My question revolves around a Tesselata Eel that will be the main attraction.  
<Mmm....>
What  approach can i take to create a good home (cave) for him, or her.
<Use as few and as large a rocks as possible to create a stable structure as possible. Maybe using aquarium safe epoxy, acrylic rod or even zip ties to somewhat bond the rock work together.>
Any recommendations?  I have roughly 200lbs of Fiji rock but I feel that the cave I've created will be too small.
<Actually sounds like quite a bit of rock.>
I've read through many of your FAQ but never got a solid idea.
<Did you see the article about leaving such morays in the ocean? Or perhaps the other specimens that are better suited to captivity. Even with a 240 gallon tank, this is a temporary quarters for this animal at best...a potential 5 feet+ in length.>
Any help will be appreciated. By the way, great work.           
<Good luck, Adam J.>      

Re: Aquascaping for Eels   1/22/06
Adam, thanks for your response.
<Anytime.>
I was torn between the Tesselata and the Whitemouth, but I just love the coloration of the Honeycomb.  I've seen in your FAQ that there are a few people that have them.
<Yes, few, being the operative word.>
  My question is will it really grow over 5' in captivity
<Oh, yes.>
and if so how long will it take?
<Well to be honest most I see in the trade are already nearing 3 feet, I rarely see juveniles. So your tank may suffice for a few years.>
  I understand that the 240g will most likely be too small in 3 to 4 years but
I intend to set up a larger system in my basement by then.
<Long as you are sure.>
  The current tank is in my living room/ kitchen (viewed from both sides), it'll be upgraded to a reef tank by then.
<Cool.>
I really like the Tesselata Eel so I have to give it a shot, so I decided to build a subterranean enclosure 30L X 22 X
8H out of Lexan for the eel to retreat into with a rock formation above to add a natural look.  Hopefully this will suffice for the next few years.
As for the Fiji rock, you would think 200lbs of rock was a lot but it doesn't seem so once its in the tank.  
<Probably not very porous.>
You asked about what filtration I'm using.  I have a Eheim Professional 3 Filter 2080, a Pro Clear 300 Wet Dry,
an Aquastep 25 Watt UV Sterilizer, and a PM Bullet-2 Protein Skimmer.  Do you feel that this is adequate.
<Along with weekly water changes yes, I prefer refugium/vegetable filters to wet-dry but for this animal this filtration arrangement should be fine.>
  Thanks Again, Brian
<No problem.>
Brian J Sadanowicz
<Adam J.>

Tesselata Eel Tank Size and Behavior 11/3/05
Hi,
<Hi Kev.>
I am considering keeping a Tesselata moray in a 144 gallon aquarium <Short term I hope, this is a tank buster at a potential 5 feet+ in length.>
am I right in thinking that I wont be able to keep any other fish in a tank this size? 
<Or the eel for its entire life.>
If this is the case, how lively is the eel likely to be? 
<Most morays are rather reclusive and become slightly more active at night or feeding.> 
I don't want a tank that looks empty most of the time.
<Lost of other good choices that could give you much more variety and enjoyment in my opinion.>
Thanks
Kev
<Welcome Adam J.>  

Mexican dragon eel  10/21/05
Hi,
I've wanted to setup a  saltwater tank for many years and was given a 55
gallon tank by a friend so I  decided to jump in. I've always wanted eels so I've
been reading everything I  could find and came across your web site. Today I
came across an eel  that I really liked and was informed by the owner that it
was a Mexican  dragon eel.  My questions are, is a 55 gal tank big enough for this eel and  say a lionfish?
<Mmm, no... not even just for this species of eel... needs at least twice this volume>
Is this type of eel hard to find normally and usually expensive,  because I know Hawaiian Dragon eels are.
<Is about the same retail in most places in the world... a bit cheaper closer to the source>
And lastly how must live rock/and what  type of filtration should I go with?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/morays.htm and the linked files above>
A friend is going to give me a wet/dry system that he was going to use on a 120 gal tank and I was
looking at an Aqua C  Remora hang on protein skimmer. Is the wet/dry system
needed for just these two fish? Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Larry
<Please read on WWM re wet-dries, marine filtration... Bob Fenner>

Muraena lentiginosa - 09/08/2005
Hello there friends
<Hello.>
Thank you for being such a vital and helpful resource to us all!
<And thank you for the kind words.>
I would just like to ask a few quick questions:
1. Would medium-semi loud music be upsetting to a jewel moray eel?
<Possibly.  The ocean is a LOUD place, I assure you, but you should probably still moderate things like loud music.>
2. What size would you say a jewel moray (Muraena lentiginosa) grows to?
<About two feet.>
I apologize because I know your site gives indications but everyone seems to have a different opinion on this and I am scared that I will go wrong!
<I tend to trust FishBase ( http://www.fishbase.org ) on sizes....  looks like 61cm (24.4in) is about right.>
3. Would a four foot long (150 UK gallon) tank be sufficient for the rest of its life?
<That's about 180 US gallons....  how "deep" (front-to-back) is this tank?  If quite deep, and not very tall, this would probably be okay.>
4. Is it true that if I had a venturi protein skimmer and some live rock I would not need any other type of filtering?
<I would research Aqua-C and Turboflotor skimmers, and get something adequate for this size tank.  I tend to prefer using only live rock, skimmer, and a deep sand bed (DSB) for filtration.>
Thank you so much.  God bless
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Tessalata Moray  9/8/05
Hi,
I was wondering if you could give me some guidance, I'm  looking to have a
custom tank built for a Tessalata Moray eel, would 60" x 30" x  30" be large
enough. I'm planning to keep the eel on his own, with plenty of  hiding places.
Also as the tank is going to look pretty empty until he has reached  
maturity, how quickly to they grow if fed daily, and how active are they through  the
daytime.
                                                                              Thanks
                                                                              Kev
                                                                              >>>Greetings!
That tank should be fine for quite some time. Whether or not it will be appropriate as a PERMANENT home is open to debate. This is due to the eventual size of the animal in question. Moral eels are very sedate though, and don't need much swimming room. Even still, I'd say you're on the edge here. I've seen adult specimens in captivity, and they are quite large. I'd shoot for a 72" tank if possible.
Growth rate is tough for me to pin down, depends on feeding regime and frequency of water changes really. I'd say you'd be looking at an 50" animal in about 2-3 years though.
Hope this helps.
Jim<<<

Queen Angel, Niger Trigger & Tessalata Moray Eel 8/18/05
Hello-
First off, I absolutely love your site.  You offer such a wonderful service to all of us marine enthusiasts.
I have looked at the forums and could not find an answer to my specific question; so, if it's there, I apologize in advance.
I have a 150-gallon aquarium that I realize I will have to upgrade to a larger size in the near future.  It's a fish only tank with a rather large Niger Trigger (7-8" head to fin tips), a Tessalata (or Honeycomb) Morey Eel (close to 3 feet) and a Queen Angel (about 6").  I don't plan to get any more fish for this aquarium.
They all seem to get along fine and there have been no serious disputes amongst them; however, the angel is a relatively new addition to the tank.
Do you see any concerns with the compatibility of these fish and, further, any immediate needs to upgrade tank size. <Eric, the eel alone is pushing the limits of your tank.  They are high waste producers.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks so much!
Eric Fossum

Queen Angel, Niger Trigger & Tessalata Moray Eel, Thanks, James. 8/19/05
I hear that my eel can push up to nine feet in the wild and it likely will
have no place in a home aquarium.  He is a wonderful fish, however...
I will be upgrading to a 250-gallon tank in the near future (two-three
months), but imagine that my Tessalata eel will have to find a new home at
some point.  I just hope to keep him as long as possible.
Until then, it's been weekly 20% water changes and frequent filter
changes/cleanings (I have both wet/dry and canister filters on the tank,
along with a Remora Pro protein skimmer).
Regardless, I truly appreciate your insight...<Good to hear 20% water changes and frequent filter cleaning.  This does improve water quality significantly.  Might want to ensure you have a good supply of hermits.  Shrimp of course would be out of the question as they would be readily consumed by the eel.  Good luck.  James (Salty Dog)>
Eric

Tesselata Moray...
Hello-
I currently have a 240-gallon tank with a large red Volitans (10" or so), a medium yellow tang (5"), a medium long-horned cowfish (6"-7"), a beautiful Maculosus Angel that is moving quickly from juvenile to adult (about 5"), and a HUGE domino damsel (about 6").
I will be inheriting a 15" Tesselata (Honeycomb) eel in the next few days and am a bit worried.
Can anyone put my mind at ease. I realize that at some point in the next few years the eel will likely outgrow my tank and I'll have to get a bigger one, but I just don't want him to hurt any of the fish I have now...
Any suggestions? Words of comfort? Etc...
>>>Hey Eric,
You should be fine, I've known people that have kept this eel in much smaller tanks for quite some time. Once they reach about 30", they really don't grown that fast anymore. I don't see any tank mate issues either.
Peace
Jim<<< 

Eel and Shark 3/11/05
Hello, Can you tell me if Lava Rock would be ok in a tank with a Snowflake eel and bamboo shark?
<likely safe... but always some risk/extra algae with terrestrial rocks><<Mmm, too sharp... little help with biofiltration, water chemistry. RMF>>
My tank is 65"X25"X25" My filtration has around 100 lb of live rock in my sump 1 canister filter 1 protein skimmer. I can't seem to find anything about Lava rock in fish only salt systems. Can you please help me. Thank you
<go to our index page at www.wetwebmedia.com and simply type in "lava rock" in the Google search tool. Enjoy the journey. Anthony> 

Brazilian dragon eel... marine
I have a Brazilian dragon eel. the last saltwater creature. my 2 other tanks are f/w. My question is, can the eel be put into freshwater or even brackish water and live?
<Uh, no>
The eel seems to be bulletproof and has survived after my tank crashed and killed everything else! Thank you, Mike
<Keep it marine Mike. Bob Fenner>

Want to keep moray eels - 12/9/04
hi,
I just discovered your website and its fantastic! <Thank you very much> I'm a newbie to saltwater aquariums and I've just ordered a 50g tank with a big-ass Eheim canister filter, protein skimmer, air pump. I'm planning to get some live rock in it as well. <A very excellent idea.> thing is I'm in love with morays and am thinking of setting the tank up for 2 fish. An eel and either a lionfish or a porcupine fish. which eel should I get? <Honey comb or snowflake to name a couple, will do fine.  If the eel is about a foot long, it should do just fine with a 2-3 inch lion. The larger the eel, the larger the lion should be although I do not think that there would be a problem anyway.> also if I cover the tank up to prevent the eel from escaping, would this create aeration problems? <Use a medium plexi top and drill holes in it. Maybe 1/4 inch holes a quarter inch apart, all over it. Keep no space opened. These guys will find a way out. Don't underestimate their determination> how do I solve it? <clamp the plexi with some type of pincher or even permanently create a locking mechanism some how. Even some diving weights on the corners of the plexi covering> I've also read about pvc piping as a refuge for the eel. I'll be aquascaping the rocks to provide a cave like retreat for it. is this enough or do I have to use the pipe? if so, how long and wide should it be? <As far as a tube goes, it is not necessary if a few tunnels are incorporated into the aquascaping. If you want to use a tube or tubes, 1 inch by 1 inch diameter is a good start. Use different sizes, some larger and some smaller than the 1x1 inch tubing. Bury them in the rock work and silicone on any pieces of rock left to the pipe to blend in the edges. You could use the two part epoxy too or Holdfast Epoxy sticks. See these choices here:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9822&N=2004+113159
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3961&N=2004+113159
You could also check your local hardware store for underwater epoxies (like z-spar) or go to your favorite local fish store or online retailer. We have quite a list here on our site. Either way, continue to read as much information as you can before purchasing your animals. Use our site as a resource but look for publications, reef clubs, and other sources to gather as much information as you can. Diet is very important to these animals. Lighting is not. Be sure maintain water chemistry by using quality water and salt mixes. Do frequent water changes. (never skimp on this! These animals can really fowl up a tank rather quickly.) Be diligent and determined. Don't assume anything, continue to ask questions. Above all, show patience. Thanks for being part of WetWebMedia. ~Paul>
thanks and looking forward to your reply.
Desmond

2 Moray Eels and Aquascaping
Been through your great site.  I'm planning to get a 125-gallon tank
(48X24X24) and the following inhabitants:
1 snowflake eel
1 leopard eel (I like the fact it's active during the day.  Please let me
know if there are any other nice looking eels that are active during the
day)
<There are quite a few... but this size system... and keeping the Snowflake... I would not add any more>
1 Volitans lionfish
School of 3-6 small fish.
<May be food items for your Lion...>
I want to get eels that are 1.5 - 2 feet in length.  Would this setup work?
<Only for two specimens maximum>
Can you recommend small schooling fish that are too big for the leopard to
eat?
<Likely Damsels of a schooling, upper water column nature. You can read over these selections on WWM>
Also, aquascaping question:  On the MorayFAQs3 page, Anthony mentioned a
subterranean plumbing system described in his Book of Coral Propagation.  He
mentions clear tubes siliconed below the sand and against the front glass to
see the eel swimming down below.  I would like to do this too.  But would
this not defeat the purpose of having a place where the eels can hide?  I'm
thinking that light will be able to get through to the eels.
<Mmm, maybe... though muraenids do not have keen vision, and likely light will be limited here>
Finally, he mentions there were two stalactites of rock coming down from the ceiling.  How's this done?
<I suspect he is suggesting siliconing the base of these stalactites from a glass support above the water. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
KC

2 Moray Eels and Aquascaping II 11/19/04
Also, aquascaping question:  On the MorayFAQs3 page, Anthony mentioned a subterranean plumbing system described in his Book of Coral Propagation.  He mentions clear tubes siliconed below the sand and against the front glass to see the eel swimming down below.  I would like to do this too.  But would this not defeat the purpose of having a place where the eels can hide?  
<most seem indifferent while overall being enclosed and "acting" secure, assisted no doubt by the fact that most are "as blind as a bat" as they say>
I'm thinking that light will be able to get through to the eels.
<little>
Finally, he mentions there were two stalactites of rock coming down from the ceiling.  How's this done? Thanks KC
<a thick PVC rod/pipe (1" or larger) is to be anchored into the ceiling... reaching down into the aquarium water with tees as necessary to form a supporting "tree" for carbonate rocks to be drilled and strategically stitched with strong plastic cable ties in the fashion of a pillar/stalag. Anthony :)

Snowflake moray system
Hello,
I have just ordered a new tank for my Snowflake eel, which I have had for nearly 2 years now, in a 4 foot tank with a humbug and clown fish.
<Good idea :D>
The new tank is 6' x 2' x 2' , is this big enough for him?
<Should be fine.  Snowflakes only get around 30" long or so.>
It has 2 overflow boxes and a trickle filter.
<This is perfectly fine filtration for a fish only tank.>
What over equipment should add to this tank?
<A skimmer couldn't hurt, but is not absolutely necessary.  I would strongly advise religious water changes monthly or even more often as well.>
And how much water will it hold?
<That's a standard 180 gallon long aquarium.>
Cheers Jess
<Cheers, Matt>

Fresh, marine, brackish eels escaping?
I just purchased an eel for my 55 gallon tank.  The lady I spoke with when purchasing it told me to block off all holes in the top of my tank because it could try to escape.  If it did escape, how far could it "slither" before dying, or would it just fall near the tank?                                                                                Thanks,                                                                            Angie...
<Depending on the species, how hot, humid the area is, the type of flooring... a few to several feet, a few minutes to several hours. Keep that tank covered. Bob Fenner>

300 gal tank for eels
I was wondering if the following filtration is adequate to keep an eel.
Starts out with my 300 gal aquarium, has 2-2” overflows down to 2 separate 100
micron socks, emptying into a 60 gal sump. << So far I'm going to say yes. >> An in sump Kent Nautilus TE
Protein skimmer driven by a mag drive 700 sub pump.  2 pumps plumbed into the
sump.  One drives the reverse flow under gravel filter (bio filtration) that
covers the entire bottom of the aquarium and turns over the combined volume of
aquarium and sump 3x an hour.  The other pump is plumbed into 2 inlets at the
top of the aquarium that provides an increase in water turn over and current
through the aquarium.  This pump provides approx another 7-8x an hour water
turn over.  Is this adequate or will I need to make further arrangements to
increase filtration prior to housing any eels?  
<< I'm thinking you are good.  But the live rock is the best type of filtration, so I recommend having plenty of high quality live rock. >>
Question about noise and stress on the animals.  The 2-2” overflows, even with
plastic gutter screen material to break up the whirlpool effect still make
noise.  Is the bothersome to the animals?  << No, with all the other stresses of our tanks I can't imagine this any type of impact. >> If so what can I do to reduce the noise without reducing the flow?
Question about oxygen levels.  With the amount of water turn over and protein
skimmer will I have to add any other means of adding oxygen to the water? << Depends on how many and how big of fish you have.  I'm going to say no for now. >> I am worried about the animals and bacteria competing for the dissolved oxygen.  
If so is it better to place it in the aquarium or the sump? << Wherever it will fit. >> I can come up
with reasons for doing it both ways.  << Oxygen is important, but that is a big tank and I think you'll be fine. >>
<<  Blundell  >>

Eel in a 45 gallon?
Hello Crew,
I love this resource.  The best I've found by far in keeping me from
inadvertently mistreating fish.  Thank you so much for providing it.
Don't worry.  I didn't buy something without knowing how to care for
it, but I am hoping to avoid such in the future.  :)
The moray page says, "A minimum of forty gallons for the smallest of
morays."  I wanted to know if this means total water volume vs. main
tank volume, as a permanent home or until it gets bigger, and what
species would do best in a smaller tank.  I have a 45 gallon that may
eventually go from a peaceful reef to a more aggressive tank whenever I
can get a larger tank for a bigger reef and transfer most of the
inhabitants.  I'm interested in the possibility of an eel and could
maybe add a sump for increased total volume and a more powerful skimmer
to keep water quality up, but I don't think I'd want to add an eel if I
could have no other fish in there.  I was thinking a snowflake
originally, but then I read here that it needs at least 60 gallons.
Live Aquaria carries what they call Uropterygius concolor (ghost eel or
unicolor snake eel as it's called here) that supposedly only needs 30
gallons, but that's the only eel I've seen on a fairly reputable site
that seems like it might need less room than a snowflake.  Does their
description sound accurate at all, or does this eel need far more room?
They don't mention it living in brackish water as your site does, so I worry.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?siteid=21&pCatId=1737&TopCatId=29
The chainlink (Echidna catenata) is suggested at 30 gallons on Marine
Depot and 125 on Live Aquaria, and I tend to assume the pessimistic
requirements are more likely to be right, especially when the site
claiming 30 suggests 30 for a snowflake as well.
Ideally I'd love to have a small eel someday that could live with a
couple 3-6" fish like maybe a maroon clown and a long-nose hawkfish, so
is there one that fits the bill offhand, or should I really make other
plans?  
Thank you,
Ben
Hey Ben,
A snowflake or a chain link moray will live in your tank for a time, but both will grow to need larger quarters eventually. When I make fish stocking recommendations, I like to set the person up long term, not just for 2 or 3 years. In staying with this method, I'd have to say steer clear of these eels. Although they are both hardy and easy to care for species, they are more appropriate for tanks 75 gallons and above. They will both jump from tanks that are not securely covered as well.  The eel you linked to may work, but I've honestly never kept that species so can't comment from direct experience. I have to say though, that it really isn't all that attractive IMO. I would make other plans for your tank. 3 or 4 small fish will do much better in a tank that size.
Jim***

Minimum Tank Size For a Snowflake (8/23/04)
Can a Snowflake Eel live in a 42 gallon aquarium all by itself? Thanks for your reply. <Many people say so. Personally, I think a 27-inch eel would be happier in a tank at least 48" in length. hey do actually swim around some. Steve Allen.>

Moray question
hi!<Howdy!> I've got a 40G tank with 20Kgs of live rock, 2 powerheads & a penguin BioWheel 170 filter. 
my question is , would I be able to have a small snowflake moray as well as a small lionfish dwarf zebra) in that tank ?  I know the eel alone will outgrow that tank. also, how long would I be able to have them in there until id have to either give them up or upgrade to a larger tank ? <I don't think that either would be very appropriate since they are very messy feeders and your filtration is a bit wimpy.> Or what about a pair of lions instead ? & no eel ? <Still would upgrade you filtration.  A protein skimmer would be great!>  thanks heaps!<You can also find lots of info on our site: www.wetwebmedia.com.  Cody>

Eel system question...
Hey friends I just wanted to see if my plan for my tank was alright... Due to moving around a bit I was forced to go with a 125 gallon for my system, now I don't plan on packing it at all.<good to hear> As far as equipment goes I have a powerful 250 gallon wet/dry filtration system, 250 gallon protein skimmer, and up to 250 gallon UV sterilizer; The tank has dual overflows so a lot of water movement going on.<good> Now I was wondering if my stocking plan would be alright due to the smaller size of the tank.
- golden tail moray (24") *already own no problems*
- jewel moray (24") *already own no problems*
- blue throat trigger (8+")
- miniata grouper (12 - 14") *already own no problems*
- red coris wrasse (13+)
- sunset wrasse (11+)<This is definitely too many large fish for such as small aquarium...in order to house these fish for their
entire lives you would need a 12 foot aquarium!!!>
Now figuring the max size of all these guys total comes around 95 inches of fish, and I'm only putting enough rock for everyone to be comfortable. Any future problems from this selection or should things go well in my mini super system? Also would adding a snowflake moray to the list be acceptable?<No it would not be acceptable....I would only add the two eels to this aquarium and forget about everything else except for maybe the grouper which you are already stuck with, Good luck IanB>

Eels in a 90
Would any of the eel species be able to thrive in a 90 gallon tank. I've been looking at a snowflake, but have been told that the zebra is more docile. I'm not sure about the size though. If not either one of these, then are there others.<I would purchase a snowflake eel, or you could get away with a zebra moray (not in the same aquarium-one or the other!) but you will need at least a 125 gallon aquarium for this creatures lifespan, IanB>

Eel Antics
Dear Crew:
I thought I would share an amusing (in retrospect) episode my Snowflake Eel put me through last night in hopes that others can avoid a similar situation. My eel is a little over a foot long and about the diameter of an average adult index finger. I have a 180G AGA pre-drilled tank. I thought I had every exit sealed. Last night I couldn't find him. After an extensive search including the floor, I finally found him. Somehow he had gotten over the overflow and was alive and well between the two walls of the overflow! I despaired about how to get him out, fearing that I would have to cut off the overflow. I decided to cut out one of the plastic pieces between the slits at the bottom of the outer wall where he was hanging out. He immediately swam out into the tank and ate heartily. Still fin today. I plugged the hole I had made and then created barricades at the tops of the overflows using a length of vinyl tubing cut in half lengthwise laid rounded side down wedged between the overflow top and the glass cover.<I am glad that everything turned out ok>
Thanks for all your help since I started in this hobby last Christmas!
Steve Allen<your welcome, IanB>

-Planning for growth-
Hi, I am interested in purchasing a Zebra Moray Eel from my LFS, I have also just purchased and just set up my 75 gallon SW tank I plan to put live rock in there too. I am interested in putting the zebra along with a valentini puffer or one of the smaller puffers (5" max) and a butterfly fish maybe a raccoon or Copperbanded, and a Tang (Big enough not to fit inside the Morays mouth) Would the 75
gallon be big enough for the eel to live its whole life? <Let me start of by saying that I'm incredibly happy that you're asking before you buy, so many don't!!! If we're talking about the same zebra moray (Gymnomuraena zebra), then with adequate filtration, I think it could be happy in that tank indefinitely provided ample filtration and hiding places exist. It will max out likely just short of 3' long and they're actually quite pleasant tank companions (won't even bite the hand that feeds!). A puffer like a valentini would be a good choice, and just to be safe, it should be larger than the eel's mouth although it probably won't bother it. As for a tang, most will get too large and will ultimately have to be removed to larger quarters.> Also would the other fish be able to co-exist in a 75 gallon with the zebra for their whole life? <The moray shouldn't be a problem.> Thanks for your time, I appreciate what you and the other crew do to help us out. <Excellent, good luck! -Kevin> Thanks once again,  Gerard Walsh

- Snowflake Eel Tank -
You told me not to post the same thing twice, but each time I posted I received two different answers which were,
"<The 5 gallons really does not make much of a difference. I would say you are ok, if you keep the snowflake by himself and perform regular water changes. good luck with this fish>"
"<Actually, that is likely the bare minimum. So in you case I would say the five gallons makes difference. I would like to say that the middle ground tank would be more like a seventy-five gallon tank. Not to say it can't be done, but be sure that the eel is you main display piece and build around him. -Paul>"
So if you read the 2 responses they are different answers, <Well... you also corresponded with two different people, so you're bound to get a difference in opinion - now you're going to get a third.> I just wanted to make sure I will not hurt or kill the fish by making the wrong decision. Thanks for your time in responding to my answers but I will just ask my Local Fish store when I go tomorrow.
<I think there is some agreement between the two statements, and if one reads the entire question & answer, they are really more similar that you might think. Here's the rub - yes, you can keep a snowflake eel in a 55 gallon tank - ideally by itself. You were not specific about this, but if you chose to keep additional fish, the 55 would be on the smaller side of comfortable for those fish and the eel. So... a 75G tank would be better. There are few to no situations when a larger tank is not better.>
Cheers, J -- >

Tesselata eel
What is the minimum size tank for a Tesselata eel in the long run?  Would a
150 work? <should be fine for now. with just the one eel> Do I need a bigger aquarium?  Also, if I have a tesselata eel,
could I keep it with a Zebra Moray and a Banded Moray (Echidna polyzona)?<I don't suggest that you mix eels. I have heard of tesselata eels killing other tankmates...(other eels, angels, etc)>
The 150 I am looking at has the same surface area as a 180 (The 180 is 6
feet long x 2 feet wide, so is the 150).<I personally like the 180s better because they are six feet long 2 feet tall and 2 feet wide, but that's just my opinion, IanB>

Zebra Moray Jumping Prevention
I am interested in buying a zebra moray for my 150 gallon tank and I have a couple of questions.  1.) Compatible with large Volitans lion fish?
<Yes, should be fine>
2.) How much of a lid should be placed on the tank?  Will 1/4" glass be acceptable or larger?
<This will work. Most important that there are not holes large enough for the animal to leave the system by>
  3.) Is a 150 large enough?
<Yes, for these two fishes>
4.)  I can't remember if you mentioned this in your web page, but are they compatible with crabs and snails?
<Not crabs... will gladly consume them, but snails will likely be ignored.>
Thank you for your time and effort,
C. Joslin
<You're welcome. Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>

Avoiding Reef Jerky
Dear WWM Crew,
<Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
I am finally ready to stock my 437 gallon (80"x36"x36") Acrylic Tank with two Hawaiian Dragon Moray Eels, in a reef type environment.  The tank has two openings each measuring 16"x22". My concern is weather to leave these openings uncovered in order to enhance air exchange or cover them with acrylic panels to make the tank "eel proof", as well as control evaporation.  Lighting initially will be a 6 foot custom Sealife ABS Fixture with four 96W P.C.'s.  The tank is plumbed to a 150 gallon open sump and connected to a large Aqua Medic Protein Skimmer.  I would appreciate your advise on whether or not to cover the tank openings.
Thanks, Ron
Well, Ron, as you have surmised, Morays can slither out and around just about any form of confinement, if they feel frisky. I've even seen them many times, when I was fishing, slither right out of the water to eat fish that we were cleaning on the rocks - an amazing sight to see! I'd opt for a cover of some sort- either the factory supplied acrylic slot covers, or a finer eggcrate over the openings. Either way, you do want to secure them, or they can definitely become "reef jerky"! Regards, Scott F>

Eels
Hi,
<Good morning, PF here in the bright and early, at least by my standards...>
I am purchasing that book I have already ordered it. <I'm assuming Michael's book on sharks and rays.> I know a lot about epaulettes but no where can I find information on how well they do with eels, in particular a Hawaiian Dragon Eel or a Tessalata Eel. <Both eels are piscivorous, and if there is a substantial size difference, I imagine one would eat the other. That said, Tessalata eels reach almost 6' in length, that's a lot of eel. Hawaiian Dragon eels reach about 32" - 1/2 the length. Don't forget the square/cube law: double the size, 4X the mass. > I have read everything on your website about sharks and almost everything about eels but I didn't find any information on Hawaiian Dragon Eels or Tessalata Eels. <I would recommend you read Scott Michael's Reef Fishes Vol 1, there's an extensive section on eels.> I also am looking into the blue dot stingrays.  I am not necessarily getting an eel or a stingray but I am definitely getting the sharks.  I have read numerous books on marine aquariums that included information about sharks.  I
have also contacted the aquarium about epaulettes.  I am smart enough to know not to get any kind of shark that is sharky-looking, like a nurse, lemon, white tip, leopard, shovelnose, or hammerheads, which are available from time to time. <Good for you, I can't believe someone would try to keep a hammerhead, well, actually, sadly I can believe that.> I have read lots of information about the sharks but I cannot find any information on how they behave with the Hawaiian Dragon Eels or Tessalata Eels or the blue dot stingrays. <The sting rays fair poorly in captivity, and need a very different setup than either the Epaulette or the Hawaiian Dragon eel - the ray needs a large, sandy area, while the shark and eel need rock work. For the sake of the ray (not to mention your wallet) leave it in the ocean, or go see one at a public aquarium.> So I need to know if they can all be housed together or with just an eel or just a stingray and sharks? <Think I already answered that one.>  I also need to know some information about the Hawaiian Dragon Eel such as his behavior, what it eats, and if it is hardy? <It's an aggressive piscivore, like all eels prone to carpet surfing, and yes they are hardy animals. They are also known for going on hunger strikes. Do pick up and read Michael's book.>  I also need to know if the sea life I listed above are compatible with a woebegone? <Not in my opinion. The woebegone gets over 10' long and is no more appropriate to keep than the hammerhead.>  I know it is compatible with an Epaulette but I don't know if it is compatible with the other sea life I listed. Please help me. Thank you very much.  Sincerely, Versusdude320
<Well, I hope this helps. Please do some more reading and research before making any final decisions. Have a good day, PF

Eel tank
Hi! My name's Evan, I just stumbled across your website and already it has clarified many of my questions and concerns, its truly a wonderful thing you have going here. I still have some questions though I was wondering if you could help rectify. First off is a dragon moray eel feasible in a 75 gallon tank if it is tailored around him as the main species?
<Search on Morays at WetWebMedia.com to find all you need to know about husbandry of eels. Tank covers are mandatory.>
If so I was thinking of using a custom built sump with a refugium built in to contribute to denitrification along with a high powered protein skimmer (of what make or model I haven't the slightest, do you have suggestions)? is this adequate
filtration?
<Seems good. Euro-reef, Aqua-C are good skimmer choices.>
It would be supplemented by biological filtration in the form of
approx. 70 lbs. of prime live rock and a 4'" bed of live aragonite/coral sand. Any input is much appreciated!
Thanks, Evan
<Oversize filtration Evan, Eels are messy.  Craig>

I Don't Get It!!!
How's it going?? great I hope
>Pretty well, thank you.
ok to the point seasoned tank keeper, and this is the first time I've ever asked for help on line I either find the answers or figure it out.  
>Ok, I'll do my best.
this is really getting to me, my snowflake 2nd I've owned in 5 years did what I read on your site the heavy breathing, just prior to that his size seemed to increase quite a bit he looked as if he bulked up, which I felt good about, stopped eating though, thought he had gorged himself last feeding was a great eater (but had to hand feed) which wasn't a problem diet was consisting of blanched squid, octopus, shrimp, etc..
>Curious as to why you blanche it.  Unfortunately, I'm having a bit of trouble picking through the information you've provided here.  I've never, ever fed my marine fish cooked foods.
then just to spice it up like we are supposed to I gave him and puffer and trigger heck every one would jump in on the feast
small frozen then defrosted no heads or tails, gutted and de-boned Smelt (common  small fish) which was inhaled...
>They take them whole in the wild, I would give them whole in the tank, too, but would also have on hand enough water for a 30%-40% change next day (for the subsequent poop-a-thon).
My water is crisp aeration fine lights pumps filters heater are dialed in all levels of water testing are on the money..
>This tells me nothing.
my other fish are all fine my feather dusters, polyps and whoever else may be present are all doing fine as usual  SO WHAT THE HECK KEEPS HAPPENING THIS IS THE 2nd ONE AND THE 2nd TIME, the breathing problem the no eating, then the changing to white and finally convulsions ending with the big bowl.  HELP ME PLEASE TELL ME SOMETHING OR THINGS maybe other than water quality, or parasites and attacked by anemone.
>I'm sorry, but if I'm not allowed to suggest those things then there's not much else I can do for you.  
its something else and its something very specific and I want to know what it is.. I wont be able to rest easy until its figured out and I learn what and about it.. Thank you I hope you'll Be able to put my mind at ease for a moment.  DEANO
>Unfortunately, without more information (including the *very* pertinent information of water quality parameters), feeding schedules, length of residence, time in quarantine, and the actual names of the other residents, I can't offer much of an educated guess.  From the little you have provided, I can't help but wonder what, if any, effect feeding cooked foods to the animal might have.  If this is the second eel you've had leave this earth this way, then I would look to husbandry practices, as I've known these fish to be exceedingly hardy and difficult to kill.  I would assume that if you have other invertebrates doing well in the system that they would be your "canaries in a coalmine", which of course would tend to rule out water quality, but I don't believe in automatically ruling everything out.  At this time it *appears* to be one of two things (this is off the top of my head--sorting fish disease, assuming it's disease, is quite a tricky business) infection, or poisoning.  My advice is to get him into his own quarantine system ASAP, and I don't think that starting him on a regimen of Spectrogram would hurt at this point.  I'm sorry I can't offer more help.  Marina

- Re: I Don't Get It!!! -
<Greetings, JasonC here...>
Ok details huh!!! <They are helpful, paints a more detailed picture...>
You know it would be cool even to throw some possible reasons my way... <What would you like me to say? Solar Flares?> Just so we are current in our chat the eel died yesterday morning. <I'm sorry to hear of your loss.>
Also 2 eels in a 5-6 year time frame isn't too shabby, <It's not excellent either... these fish live much longer in the wild, and even in captivity - as Marina mentioned before, the devil is in the details - two eels in five years is not great odds.> the first ended up like this recent one because of fish Gang Warfare ha ha ha. <That is funny why?>
And by the way maybe you have "a canary program working for you" myself well,,, Id shove a human in for my dirty work and wouldn't think once about it.. <Pardon? You do understand the "canary in a coalmine" comment was directed at other inhabitants of your tank, which would under normal circumstances bail out long before your eels - without such an indicator, one needs to look for the problem elsewhere.>
Lets put it this way, if someone asked me about you and that you were covered in spots, pale and had a mild fever,, not being a doctor, id say maybe chicken pox, maybe measles, maybe even German measles, even though I haven't seen you or even knew what you looked like. <But you could be 100% wrong making assumptions like that - I could just be wearing makeup or have a high metabolism, or both.> I was offering some answers to question using general knowledge!! <And perhaps too general.> Now you seem to have to hear and see also deal with tons of stuff in the fishy business.. so just by the symptoms, it sounds like? <It sounds like a problem.>
or maybe its? but then it could be???? you hear me????? <I hear you, do you hear you?>
I already told you tank and water are crisp which means there fine....... <And that means nothing to me either - the demise of your eels tells a different story. It is too easy to quickly say "The water is perfect." when in fact, it might not be.>
I cant see what giving you good readings will accomplish except ruling out water quality which I already said is GOOD. <Good to you and good to me could be two different things - it pays to compare. In addition, there may be something about your husbandry practices which is amiss... >
So ill humor you with it anyways.
100 gal. tank
83lbs live rock Marshall and Tonga
2 -1 inch live sand front to 2/3 back of tank thick to thin
Dual overflow boxes to sump trickle more rock trickle Lego trickle foam through a polisher then to another sump and this lil giant pushes it back into tank by way of triple split flex joint flow connectors 1 upish 1 downish 1 sidish
a Jager Meister heater in 2nd sump keeps us fuzzy feeling about 74 -78
Nautilus protein skimmer in 1st sump works just fine
4 bulbs 2 really bright  white compacted 1 purple kind a blue (makes your clothes look funny)
and then 1 sun light pinkish orange color  48 inch reg V-HO HO HO
timer says you and you come on then in 2 hrs you come on then 2 more hours and then you come on we all stay on for 6 more hours then I go off then 2 hours later 2 more  go off  then 1 hour later purple done till the morning
5 years old  almost eligible for social security benefits
residents are as such 1 ylw tang 1 pwd blue
1 Porc puff 1 mar clown 1nigger trigger 1 big jaw blenny 1 juv emperor 1 purple
psycho- crom and I used to have a 2 yr old snow flake
2 dusters large hula hula  1 small carpet anem green polyps purple polyp
pink polyps  and lotsa lotsa coralline
I feed once a day and that's the way it works best for us and for 5 years so far
20 gal changes 1 every 2 weeks every other day top offs pure clean cosmostized water
Kalk who once a month dripped in 1 per 1-2min ratio speeded up at night with lights out.
So now these are the results I get from all that stuff: Grav 1.021-1.023
PH8.25   ALK 3.5   AMM 0   Nitri 0  Nitrat15/20 mg/l (ion)
PHOS .05   CAL 425   IRON.12  Dissolved OX 7.0  Carbon Diox  2.3   blood
type  A.O.K
I bet any eel would be stoked to kick it at a pad like this, like I said my water and tank are "CRISP"
Now please can you offer some specific illnesses <Specific? No, I can't. As Marina suggested, you should at least start by not cooking the food any more - these are eaten raw in the wild, and will do your captive charges much more good if fed this way - could be you've got a nutrient deficiency because of the blanching. Could also be that your system is on the edge of being full - something that cannot be tested for is the bioload, and it could very well be that as crisp as you think the water is, with the addition of another large messy eater, that the actual 'quality' of the water is stale, and not as 'crisp' as a handful of tests would indicate. While I'm on the crowding issue, you may have had social issues which while not completely apparent might have been working against your eel this whole time. Likewise, you may have just obtained compromised livestock which went for as long as it was going to go. It's difficult to be more specific than that without a post-mortem examination under a microscope.>
THANK YOU
DEANO
<Cheers, J -- >

What's The Deal With This Eel?
Hi,
<Hello! Scott F. here today>
I just wondered if you could answer me a question please, I have a 117 UK gallon tank with a 2.5ft Zebra moray, 6 inch French angel and a Sailfin tang. I would like to put a 12inch snowflake moray in the tank as well would he be compatible with my current fish.
I have 2 70 gallon external filters with good aeration and circulation. Your comments would be much appreciated.
Kind Regards, Darren Adams
<Well, Darren-from a "space"  and compatibility aspect, I suppose that it is possible to include this fish, as these eels generally will stay in their chosen cave, and not display excessive territoriality. However, I am more concerned about the long-term husbandry issues caused by this bioload in the tank. Both the French Angel and the tang eat a lot of food, give off a respectable quantity of metabolic waste, and just get plain large! The moray will also give off lots of waste products, as you are no doubt aware. I think that adding another larger fish with somewhat "messy" eating habits can be problematic in the long run. I'd hold off, unless a larger tank is in the future. As it is, you need to really be on top of the maintenance in this tank, with regular, frequent water changes being one of the main tasks, not to mention the need for efficient filter media cleaning and replacement. I say enjoy the wonderful selection of fish that you already have! The Sailfin Tang is an absolutely gorgeous fish, and you'll really enjoy watching him grow! Regards, Scott F.   

Chain link eel
Hi WWM! I'm very glad to have found your site - it has helped me find answers to nearly every marine question I had, and helped me decide to get my first marine animal - an echidna catenata.
<A really neat species>
  I'm not sure how old he is, but he's probably about ten inches long.  I know older eels can go very long periods of time without eating, but am starting to get concerned about mine.  He's in a tiny temporary (5 gal.) tank, with just heater/filter/air stones and refuge.  The ph is above 8, temp is 78, and he's been active in the tank for 5 days now.  I have had the water tested, and ammonia / nitrite are high, but it's a new tank w/ just him in it so I think that that's expected.
<... this tank is way too small, and the presence of ammonia, nitrite (both toxic)... are very bad influences>
I have tried feeding him freshwater feeders (even though I later read they were bad for him), thawed krill on a stick, then 2 days ago tried thawed squid on a stick, and lastly tried last night to feed him a ghost shrimp.  Any suggestions / ideas, or just patience?                  
                              Thank you very much, you
                              have a great website,
                                  Joseph Azersky
<You should find larger quarters (at least forty gallons) for this fish, move it ASAP, do your best to urge on the establishment of biological filtration (see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm>, and not try to feed this animal till you've done so>
  (PS:  one morning when I turned on the lights, he arched back his head so he was looking backwards over his body, and started to whip his head side to side for a few seconds, and did this a few times over a 5 min period.  Any ideas what that co