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Seastar. Not dipping
7/10/14 Red Starfish Health 1/19/09 Hi there.
<Hello Wendy> I have purchased a small red Seastar. I knew when I
bought it that I may have a challenge on my hands but thought it so
bright and cheery it was worth the risk. I have not owned a Seastar
before. <Since you didn't provide a name or pic, I will assume
it is a Red Linckia starfish.> <<Mmmm... I wouldn't assume
this... refer this person to the site for ID. RMF>> I have been
running my tank for 8 months. All the water parameters are fine and I
have been pleased with my general coral wellbeing (they are all getting
bigger and show beautifully!). I have about 50kg live rock, 3 tank
reared clowns, 3 tank reared Blue Damsels, a sweet scooter dragonet (he
is so funny and likes to be hand fed), snails, red and blue hermit
crabs and 4 Peppermint Shrimp. I feed Cyclop-eeze, live brine shrimp
and Salifert coral food. My tank is 3.5'l x2'w x2.5'h, with
2 Fluval 305 canister filters with carbon, ceramic and phosphate
remover, a skimmer and 4 x 39wT5 (1 x blue, 3 x white), 9w uv filter, 2
power heads, a top up <off> unit and a small fan. I do a 10l
water change (using RO filtered water) every over other day as I
believe that this will be less stressful on the animals within the tank
than a larger weekly or fortnightly change. I drip acclimatised the
Seastar for around 4.5 hours by putting a pinprick below the waterline
in his bag and allowing his water to equalize with my tank very slowly
(I have done this for all the animals I have purchased). He was not
exposed to the air. Unfortunately I forgot to ask the LFS how long they
had been in possession of him. The upshot is that one leg is slowly
rotting away. I have read this can happen due to stress. <I'm
guessing this starfish was badly shipped, exposed to air and/or harsh
changes in water parameters which can cause necrosis of the legs and/or
the entire body of which you are observing. Linckia starfish are
generally a hardy species providing they are shipped well, and once
acclimated and feeding, should live a few years.> <<Linckia
stars are NOT typically hardy... actually Asteroids period don't
last in hobby set-ups... RMF>> However what I would like to know
please is whether this rotting may stop and I should just watch him and
hope he will recover on his own or whether I should try and cut off the
leg and hope that all will be OK and, if so, how I should go about
this? <Mmm, leave the scissors in the drawer, better to maintain
good water quality and hand feed the star with pieces of clam meat and
hope for a recovery. Removing the leg would be a last resort if the
necrosis continues to spread. This can be done with a razor blade or
Exacto knife. If it comes to doing this, remove the starfish in a
shallow container, remove the leg, and place the starfish back into the
tank.> <<This won't work... RMF>> I have read other
threads where this is advocated but they seem to be about animals in a
much worse state than mine (he is happily moving around my tank and
feeding at the moment) and I am worried about causing him more stress
than he has already been subjected to. <Yes, and do read here and
related articles/FAQ's above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/linckiastars.htm> I would be grateful for
your advice. Kind regards <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Wendy
Fromia milleporella First Aid 8/22/05 Good Sunday WWM Crew...
<What happened? Lost another day, again!> I hope that that this
finds you well. Yesterday, I took receipt of a Fromia
milleporella. I live in KY and it came from California via
Drs. Foster and Smith. It was a mess. Its
shipping time was not unusually long, but evidently long
enough. His body, overall was still turgid but each of his 5
legs had developed necrosis (up to 1/4 inch in a couple of places) and
he evidently had shed in the shipping bag. Upon initial
investigation, I modified my acclimation to floating him in the tank
while using a 5 ml eye dropper to drip tank water every fifteen minutes
(at a rate of one drop per second) and then emptying 1/2 the water and
commencing my "drip". This process took about 5
hours, but I checked his bag temp several times and it matched that of
the tank. I then lowered his bag into the water, slid him
out and laid him on top of a piece of Cyclop-eeze wafer in an
accessible, but protected spot on the substrate. I kept an
eye on him for the rest of the evening to see if anything was going to
change drastically. He moved about 1/2 inch and seemed to be
pressing his disk down into the substrate where the Cyclop-eeze wafer
was. My goal was for him to be comfortable, and to have
nourishment that he wouldn't have to work very hard to get. I
reread all of the sea star articles and FAQ's currently posted,
paying particular attention to the postings regarding Fromia
milleporella. One posting in the FAQ's mentioned that
you could swab the necrosis spots with reef strength iodine a/o remove
the necrosis (plus some) on the legs with a scalpel or razor
blade. This morning I performed the iodine swab with a
disposable wooden grilling skewer (never used) and polyester filter
floss attached to the end of it soaked in Kent Marine Iodine
supplement. I also did my best to remove the necrosis areas
on his legs and vacuuming out the "pieces". For
today's nourishment I placed some starfish sushi (a.k.a. a piece of
mussel soaked in Selcon wrapped in dried seaweed) under him and
squirted some DT's Live Phytoplankton into the substrate underneath
him. He seems to be accepting the sushi, but it took him a
couple of hours. My question is, if he can be swabbed with the iodine
as Mr. Calfo suggested, can I fashion dressing for his legs with the
iodine soaked filter floss, and then change it each day until it is
able to regenerate? <I would leave off handling, treating this
animal more than the one time> It seems to be working on it on its
own as long as I can keep it as de-stressed as possible and nourished.
<Yes> By the way, I called Drs. Foster and Smith once the
starfish was settled, explained his condition and they gladly gave me a
full and immediate credit (my choice, store or to my credit
card). I thought that was good customer service considering
that I am not convinced that this guy started his trip from California
in good and healthy condition. <Very likely so> Your advice is
most welcome, and any other suggestions for me would be most
appreciated. I know that I have an uphill battle ahead, but
the starfish seems to want to recover and I want to help it as much as
possible. Thank you very kindly, Pam Cradic <I do hope this animal
recovers in your good care. Bob Fenner> Lethargic Chocolate Chip Star (1/23/04) I've read through just about everything I could find on your website about chocolate chip starfishes (and there was a lot) and I am still not certain what is wrong with mine. My starfish has been rather lethargic for about two weeks now. I have a 55gal aquarium with the starfish, a Clarkii clown, 5 small damsels, and a peppermint shrimp. The salinity is 1.023 and the temperature is 78. I have had the starfish for about 6 months now. He is not missing any limbs or any pieces, he's his normal color, but he won't move. I have tried placing food beside him but he will not go to it to eat, so I have had to put him on top of it. <Does he eat it then?> I know starfish move slow, but this one has only been moving about an inch per day. I have noticed very tiny spots of a red colored algae in the tank recently, is this a sign of a bad water condition that could be affecting my starfish? <Could be that your nitrate level is high enough to be toxic to it. I'd check ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH for sure. A water changes would be a good idea, maybe 20-30%. Just make sure you keep the SG the same. Also, if the pH if out of whack, fix it slowly. Sea stars are very sensitive to changes in SG & pH. That said, it can be very difficult to figure out what's wrong with a sea star. Hope this helps, Steve Allen.> Sand Sifting Starfish Hi Crew...I hope this finds you doing well. Bob, if you are around, it was quite an honor to meet you and hear you talk at the MARS meeting in November. Thank you! <A pleasure to share> My question is in regard to my sand sifting starfish. I have had this animal for about 3 1/2 years, and until just recently it has been great. Last night, however, I noticed that is not looking good. It is still active, but it is definitely skinnier and several legs look damaged. <Not good signs... typically nutritionally related, but could have summat to do with water quality as well... or?> Two legs are shorter than the others, and one is crooked...almost like it has been broken. I recently added a green carpet anemone to this tank (100g with 2x250 MH and 4x55w PC) and suspect that it could be involved (like it may also be involved in the disappearance of one of my skunk cleaners). <Yes> Water param.s are all great with the exception of a moderate level of NO3...I'm working on that...but I don't think that is the issue as this tank has habitually had detectible NO3. Could it be that my starfish is getting old? <Mmm, not likely. Turns out some investigators consider the group of spiny-skinned animals (echinoderms... urchins, sea cucumbers, crinoids...) immortal... that's right, beyond senescence. They don't "get old"> What is the suspected lifespan of this animal? My first thought was that it was starving, but it has never been interested in any food that I offered so that avenue is a brick wall. Any suggestions? Once again...thanks! Jason <I would move this Archaster to another system if you have one... most likely solution to whatever might be "ailing it". Barring this I would switch out or add more/new live rock (a good general cure-all...). Bob Fenner> Echinoderm Quarantine (9/8/04) Greetings crew. <Steve Allen today.> Can't find what I need in the FAQ archive. I am planning to get a starfish for my minireef. After extensively researching my choices, I am leaning towards a Fromia sp. of starfish (waiting for a pretty red or orange one to come in). <Best choice. Most Linckias die.> I am wondering if I should set up my QT differently than I do for my fish and corals? <Bare bottom is fine. Echinoderms are happiest at normal seawater salinity (SG around 1.024).> Is there anything special that I should do for keeping a starfish for 4-6 weeks? <4 is fine. You will need to feed it things like frozen Mysis.> I currently have a 10-gal with heater, 20w of PC, powerhead <Consider leaving this out. Definitely use a screen to keep the starfish room getting stuck in the intake.> and a whisper 30 filter. Plenty of PVC <not really needed for the star, but no harm.> and a fake Caulerpa plant as well. <Again, not needed.> Anything else I should have on hand just in case of problems? <Not that I can think of. The key factor is slooooow acclimation (use drip--read article on WWM). This will also be the case when moving to the display. Stars tolerate only very gradual changes in SG and pH especially. Temp and other factors are important as well.> Just wondering before I get my new reef family member. <Smart to learn first and buy after. Good luck.> Thanks again for all your help. AA pleasure.> -Ray
Chocolate Chip Star Problems (4/5/04) Hi, <Howdy, Steve Allen covering echinoderms today.> I have had my chocolate chip starfish for 2 years, and he has always been healthy. Yesterday I noticed white ragged spots on his legs. The areas are near the dark "chips" that are furthest from his central body, there are three affected legs - one that looks pretty bad, the other two legs have smaller spots. Nothing has been altered in the tank, and all other inverts and fish are fine (none are showing spots). <Do you have any nippy fish that might be taking a taste.> He is also still very active and interested in food. I would greatly appreciate it if you could help me I'm quite attached to the little guy! :) Thanks, Beth <This may be a bacterial or fungal infection. I'd be a little concerned about it possibly being contagious. Even if not infected now, these wounds easily become so. Unfortunately, such conditions are usually ultimately fatal. Do consider putting it into a hospital tank with pristine water for observation/treatment. Consider a broad spectrum antibiotic if this seems to be worsening at all. Hope this helps.> Sick Starfish (3/30/04) Dear Crew: <Steve
Allen tonight.> You guys are the best. I have only been in the
hobby for about one year, however, I have discovered a passion beyond
description. <I hear ya!> Your site is the most informative and
educational I have found. The loss of one of my fishes/critters breaks
my heart. <Yes indeed. I have felt that too many times.>
Anyway to my questions, my red serpent star that I have had for over a
year has suddenly turned very white on the top of his disk. <Uh,
oh> I have a 55g tank with 80lb live rock with live sand. All
parameters are good and I am faithful with weekly water changes. Other
inhabitants include spotted Hawkfish (very small), true Percula
clownfish, lawnmower blenny, scooter blenny, royal Gramma, and diamond
goby. I have several hermits, snails and my beautiful starfish. The
lawnmower blenny has suddenly started picking at the starfish like he
is eating something off of him. <May well be doing just that.> Of
course the starfish hates this and runs like crazy. Could this be a
fungus infection of some kind? <Is it fuzzy/fluffy stuff or just
pale skin?> If so, should I remove him to the quarantine tank and
treat him. <Putting him in QT is a good idea. Treating with an
antifungal and an antibiotic may help, but I regret to have to say that
echinoderms rarely survive infections.> He is otherwise acting
normally, moving around and eating well. <Reassuring> I always
make sure he gets a chunk of the Formula Frozen algae (he eats like a
pig). He has always been healthy and active. Any suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. Best Wishes, Lona Pearson <Pristine water, QT
if available, meds maybe. Can you get a good picture with a digicam and
send it?> Saving A Starfish Please Help!! I bought a sand shifter star one week ago. I have one other in my tank that is doing and has been doing fine for about 6 months, but this new one has now lost three legs in the last three days. <Yikes!> I try to keep checking on him, but he seems fine. I flip him over and he can get himself back over he is just losing arms at an alarming rate. He is much bigger than my other sand star and I'm beginning to wonder if he is too big for my sand depth or my aquarium is too full for him to maneuver around easily. I have a lot of live rock. I'm not sure what to do. He's lost two arms today. He's down to two arms left. The arms he's lost look kind of mushy at the ends where they were connected to his body. Should I take these out of the tank? My local fish store said to leave them in just in case they are another star fish forming, but I don't think they are. Please any advice would help. <Well, I'd absolutely get him out of the tank, or at least put him in a "breeding trap" or other confinement system within the main tank. If he wanders off under a rock somewhere and dies, it will be a major tax on water quality. Starfishes lose digits due to a variety of things- environmental, bacterial, or predatory situations. The "mushy" appearance that you are describing sounds to me like some form of infection. If it really looks like an infection, I'd get him into a separate tank and treat with an antibiotic, with the heroic intentions of saving this guy...Starfish do have amazing regenerative powers, but you may need to address the infection before this can begin. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Marble Star Losing Legs I have a Marble Star that has lost some of the tips of its arms. The tips began to waste away and then just fell off. The process has been very slow, and it took about two weeks before the first tip just fell off. It appears that it may have a bacterial infection, but the animal is still alive and moving (a little) around the tank after about of month of being like this. What do you think I should do? Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate = 0. Alk = 3.0. Calcium = 385 ppm. Temp = 75. S.G. 1.024. Thanks. <<Hmm, the above looks fine... I might move the animal to another system if you had one... with a slightly reduced specific gravity (a few thousandths) and a dose of Nitrofurazone (25 mg per gallon), ten minute dip on the way there... It may be there is something that doesn't agree with the animal in your present system... that it could find or lose in another... especially one that has been set up a good while (more than six months). Bob Fenner>> Sick stars hello I need help we have two starfish in our aquarium and they both look injured I don't know what I did or what to do I don't want them to die or to lose the fish we also have do have any suggestions? please help Becky <Becky... first remove the starfish to an isolation tank. Something simple and inexpensive if you don't already have a QT (very important to QT all fish and inverts before adding to your tank <4 weeks> for just such reasons... spread of disease, sudden death from stress of acclimation, etc). A 10 gallon tank with some aged tank water, a few large pieces of live rock, a heater and some circulation would do the trick... no lights, no other filters of sand on the bottom. Then lets figure out what you have and how we can help. Do browse the articles and FAQs by navigating through the marine topics from out index page at www.wetwebmedia.com If you can send a picture that will help too. Kind regards, Anthony> Starfish Care I have had particularly difficult time keeping Starfish alive. This includes brittles, Choco, sand sifters, etc. All of my measurements are OK and the tank is well seasoned with plenty of detritus/algae for feeding. I am going to order some more but want to know if there are any tricks to acclimation that I can use to increase chances for success. <Yes, please read here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm > Also, I am prepared to quarantine specimens and medicate. Do you know of any safe medication that I can use to "Cleanse" the newly acquired specimens so that I am not introducing problems on top of what I already have? <I would quarantine, but not medicate. The key is finding and selecting healthy specimens. See here for tips http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seastars.htm > Thanks for any info. Don <Good luck. -Steven Pro> Dissolving starfish? I have a rather curious
situation going on, and was wondering if you guys have any ideas as to
what to do about it. I have an Orange Marble Starfish that appears to
be "dissolving" in the tank. It started with a single leg
slowly getting shorted a few weeks ago, and now it's down to the
point of where there is only a single leg left fully intact with some
degree of dissolve in all of the other four legs. I had thought that
the situation would stop, and the affected legs would just re-grow, but
the problem doesn't seem to be stopping. Any suggestions? <Mmm,
yes. Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/seastars.htm
particularly the linked FAQs files beyond... Do monitor your water
quality closely. If possible and you want to optimize your chances of
saving this animal, do consider dipping it in a dilute antibiotic bath
(input here can be found by using the search tool at the bottom of the
homepage or indices) AND moving it to another established reef system.
Bob Fenner> Fromia Starfish I bought a Fromia star 3 days ago. It seems fine until yesterday that part of one arm start to degenerate. I had a same problem with one before and it died. <this necrosis is serious at times> Could I use iodine treatment? <sure... swab a reef strength dose directly onto the affected portion with the intent to stain it> If all else fails, could I cut off the portion of the arm that is infected, since their can regenerate? <please do...sooner rather than later and take off more of the arm than you need to. Use a sharp razor or scalpel.> Thanks, Jackie <with kind regards, Anthony Calfo> - Seastar Troubles - Hello, <Hello, JasonC here...> I
had a red star general. Suddenly it got a spot on
it. the tank was medicated with Mela-fix. <Perhaps a
reaction to the tea-tree oil/Melafix.> The starfish got worse and it
looked like something ate it, however nothing was ever seen on it.
<Well... when a Seastar checks out, they tend to dissolve.>
Recently some of my fish got Ich. The tank was medicated
with Greenex. <Oh goodness, no... this is what caused you the
problems with your inverts. Greenex is incredibly toxic and pretty much
fatal for invertebrates.> Now my Brittlestars are starting to lose
sections of their arms. They are not losing a whole piece
but small pieces at a time. <I'm sorry to tell you that they are
probably goners.> Could you please help. Thanks Joe Stein <Joe,
in the future, when you need to treat a problem like Ich, you need to
do it in a separate tank, away from the main display. Greenex is a
combination of Malachite Green and Formalin, both of which are really
bad news and in fact, inappropriate for Ich - you'd be better off
treating with copper in a quarantine tank. Likewise, I wouldn't
bother with Melafix at this point - there is no scientific evidence
that this stuff works for treating a problem like Cryptocaryon/Ich.
Please read the following articles on WWM - they should provide you
some background and also a plan for action: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/parasiti.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quaranti.htm
Cheers, J -- > |
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