
|
|
FAQs about Ariid Catfishes, aka Columbian, Silver-Tipped-...
"Sharks" Behavior Related
Articles: Ariid
Catfishes Related FAQs:
Ariid Cats 1, Ariid Cats 2,
Ariid ID, Ariid Compatibility,
Ariid Selection, Ariid Systems,
Ariid Feeding, Ariid Disease,
Ariid Reproduction, Marine Catfishes,
Catfishes in General, Behave
differently in different settings, with different tankmates. | .jpg)
|
Columbian Shark... beh... gen.... no ref...!? 4/27/2009
Hey crew! Hopefully you can answer my question... I had a Columbian
shark for the last two weeks.
<Sciades seemanni, a fantastic fish. But remember, it's a SCHOOLING
BRACKISH WATER fish, and cannot be kept either singly or in a freshwater
aquarium.>
As any Columbian shark we was very active going always up, down and
around my tank. He was about two inches long. Yesterday I woke up to
find my shark very slow, barely moving, kind of sad :( He didn't react
to the food I threw him nor Anything I did for him.
<Oh dear.>
I went to the pet store were I bought him, the guy told me to change 50%
the water.
<What is the salinity of the water? Sciades seemanni needs at least SG
1.005, and adults do best at anything between SG 1.010 and fully marine
conditions.>
I did everything as careful as I could. I even changed the filter.
<Why did you change the filter?>
It's frustrating because I woke up this morning to see him dead! The
strange thing is his dorsal fin was RED. I mean, RED! don't exactly know
what that means... Did I poison him?
<We're you keeping him in a brackish water aquarium?>
Was he eating enough? Don't know! What does the red fin means?
<Could mean all sorts of things, but typically a secondary bacterial
infection brought on by poor water quality or the wrong water chemistry.
I cannot stress how important it is that these fish are kept in big
aquaria (55+ gallons) with very powerful filters (they need strong water
current) and a reasonably amount of salinity.>
I know he wasn't being bother by the other fishes, I had him black
pebbles, sand under the pebbles, couple of plants, strong current, new
filter even a really cool air pump thing, jeje, lots of the common
suggestions....
Where I failed...?
<These fish are very hardy in brackish water aquaria; they cannot live
in freshwater aquaria.>
Help me please... I think I want another one.
<Schooling fish, must be kept in groups: three or more specimens!>
He was the star of my tank... :(
<Yes, these are spectacular fish, and in big brackish water systems
"steal the show".>
Sent from my iPhone ;)
<Sent from my Mac.>
Joanne M.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Shark Catfish... beh., fdg.
Hello, <Ave!> I just bought two shark catfish, they are completely
silvery with lots of black spots. <Sounds like these are in fact the
Pictus Catfish -- Pimelodus pictus -- a South American freshwater
catfish. Check the pictures here:
http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/species.php?species_id=276 The
usual "Shark Catfish" of the hobby is Sciades seemanni, an estuarine
species.> I put them in my tank and fed them some bloodworms, about
half a cube. Then when I came to look at the tank I noticed that both of
them had large stomachs, it seemed like it was bulging out. Is this
normal? <Sounds like they just ate a lot. So long as the bulge goes
away in a couple of hours, don't worry about it.> I have read so many
articles on bladder problems in fishes that I am getting worried in case
something like that has happened to them. The lady in the LFS did say
they eat bloodworms, so I that's why I fed it to them. What have I done
wrong? <Likely nothing wrong.> Also, could you please tell me how
to care for them properly, as I am not too sure if I have got my facts
right. <Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/pimelodids.htm Basically
easy to keep, but hyperactive and predatory, as well as fairly big, so
bear that in mind.> I bought some bloodworms, tropical flakes (tetra)
and some catfish pellets (tetra) and some other protein pellets as well
which are JMC I think. In a plastic container, transparent with an
orange top. <All sounds fine. They eat pretty much anything
(including small tankmates!).> Thanks a lot for any help you could
give me. Neervana. <Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Columbian Cat Shark -
6/3/08 Thanks
Neale, They look completely stunning in a Reef Aquarium, no one
believes me when I tell then they are not actually real sharks and will
not grow 6ft. The way they move and cruse the aquarium mid level and
explore the caves makes them look remarkably like Reef Sharks. <Have
seen them thus, and yes, the likeness is amazingly close, right down to
the way they swim. One ichthyology text book I have begins the chapter
on catfish by saying simply "Catfish do everything". Bold stuff from a
scientist, but really very true. An amazing group of fish, and the more
species you keep, the more impressed you become with their
adaptability.> Theirs colours have changed from washed out silver to
dark metallic steel grey, with a brownish dorsal fin, the rest of the
fins are black with white tips. They have great appetites and are
growing by the day. <Juveniles grow very rapidly. They level off
around about 15-20 cm, and only very infrequently do aquarium specimens
reach their maximum size in the wild of 35 cm. Some experienced
aquarists have opined that there may be more than one species in the
trade offered under the Colombian Shark Catfish moniker, and hence the
variability in maximum size.> I have a very strong current in the
tank from 4 power heads and they love the current. Not seen them sit on
the tank bottom once... but then they even sleep on the
wing...whoops...fin! Never stop! <Indeed so! They are migratory in
the wild, moving up and down estuaries all the time.> Feeding them
enough to maintain there activity level will be the challenge in a Reef
tank without upsetting the water quality ! <Adults do need rather
less food per unit body mass than the juveniles; it's generally
recommended that big catfish be fed only every other day. I tend to
prefer to simply offer small daily meals, ideally things that are high
in fibre (like unshelled crustaceans) so that the fish feel full without
too much protein (i.e., nitrogen) getting into the system.> Thanks
again. <Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Shark Catfish 1/23/08 Hi Neale, <Neervana,> Thanks so
much for your quick reply, was getting a bit panicky! So if they are
swimming around really fast it doesn't matter? <Depends how you
define "does it matter". Obviously these are active, river fish that
need lots of space. In a small tank they will never do well, and will
likely jump out or simply become nervous or sluggish. For Pimelodus
pictus, the tank should be at least 1 m long from side to side, and
should also have lots of water current, so the fish can enjoy swimming
into the stream.> I forgot to mention that, they are going crazy,
they are swimming REALLY fast and going crazy in the tank. <Typical
for the species.> Do I need to add some stress zyme to calm them down
a bit? <No. [a] That isn't what StressZyme does and [b] you can't
calm them down -- they are river catfish and WANT to swim about.>
Also if I have fed them bloodworms today, should I feel them those
pellets tomorrow? <Always a good idea to rotate food items. You
wouldn't eat the same thing every single day, would you? Mixing things
up ensures the fish don't get bored and get a nice balance of
nutrients.> Thanks, Neervana. <Cheers, Neale.>
Advice please. Re: Shark catfish, beh. - 1/24/08 Hi Neale,
(or if it's someone else) <It is indeed me.> I just wanted to say
that my two shark catfish are doing very well now, they have calmed down
a lot and are swimming peacefully but are trying to hide in a place
where they can't be seen! The bulges in their stomachs have now
disappeared (due to feeding them bloodworms yesterday) and I'm going to
feed them tonight with a Tetra pellet each. I will take your advice on
feeding them sparingly, with food each day other than big meals.
<Cool.> When do you think I should do a water change? <Same as
ever: once a week, 25-50%.> Because I just got them yesterday and I
bought a tank for them so they could be alone, I don't know when I
should change the water. I'm going to try and buy a vacuum gravel
tomorrow with a water tester. The tank is fully cycled, but because they
are new fish I don't know when I should start doing water changes. I
know it should be once a week, but if I change it this Sunday is that
too soon? They are very active and seem to be very healthy, breathing
normally, have bright and have not lost any colour at all. They aren't
stressed but sometimes they start swimming around crazily (which I take
is normal from your previous answer to my email). <Don't worry about
it. They're riverine fish, and swimming rapidly is what they do.
Sometimes people turn the lights off just before doing water changes, so
that the fish calm down a bit. Worth a shot I suppose, but since they're
catfish I doubt they care whether the lights are on or not. Just don't
chase the fish about with the hose pipe! Be gentle, and pour the new
water in gently too.> Would appreciate it if you could advise me when
to make the first water change. Is there anything else I should be
doing? <Sounds like you have everything covered. Good luck!>
Thanks, Neervana. <Cheers, Neale.> Arius
seemanni, strange behavior 4/2/07 Hello, I have
two Arius seemanni in a 120-gallon tank. They are about 5 inches. Before
they where very active, swimming constantly around using the whole
aquarium. Now they stay in the bottom of the one end corner most of the
time. Especially the leader seems sick (or not him/her self), swimming
in small circles up and down, some times fast and some times slow, or
just stay at the same place with its tail towards the ground and the
head towards the glass and almost laying on the side. <Listlessness
in shark catfish, Hexanematichthys seemanni, is not uncommon. The main
problem is that these are migratory fish: they spend all but the first
few months of their lives constantly swimming up and down estuaries
between freshwater and the sea. They don't stay in any one set of
conditions for very long. They are also intensely sociable, and when
kept singly or in pairs tend to be far less settled than when in groups
of three or more. Since they are totally non-aggressive towards their
own species, it is even possible to add juveniles to a tank containing
adults -- they will all happily swim together!> If I turn off the
circulation pump and the light, this seems to help a little bit getting
it to move a bit more around. They have no problems moving around when
eating - I feed them more or less every day with bloodworms.
<Provided they are eating, their health is probably sound, so I'd
diagnose a psychological rather than a physiological problem here.>
Some history: About one and half month ago I got problems with nitrite.
It took me until a week ago to get the problem fixed. The strange
behavior began about fourteen days ago. In the process of getting the
nitrite right again, I slowly cut down salt to zero. When nitrite became
all right again, I raised the salt in four days from 0 to 9 PPT (0.09
%). But the situation is still the same. <Why did you reduce the
salinity when the nitrites went bad? Regardless of the situation, you
need to adapt the filter to the salinity you want to keep the tank at.
For shark catfish, around SG 1.010 is ideal, though they do well in
seawater too.> By my reckoning, a salinity of 9 ppt is about SG 1.005,
~25% seawater -- far too low for long term care of shark catfish. When
kept in low or zero salinity conditions, shark catfish seem to develop a
very strong "migration" instinct, a desire to find different conditions
closer to those that they'd inhabit in the wild.> Do you know what’s
wrong with them? <Likely the group is too small and the salinity too
low.> Will they ever get back to normal? <As things stand now,
no, probably not.> Can I do anything to help them? <Yes, buy at
least one more catfish for the group, and then raise the SG to around
1.010.> Nitrite is all most zero, Nitrate is about 75, pH is about
8.3, total hardness is about 21 and carbonate hardness is about 8.
<All fine for these catfish. They are very, very adaptable
physiologically, but in terms of what conditions they "feel" happy in,
they are picky. They are superb animals, in my opinion the most
shark-like of all the "sharks" sold in the aquarium trade (except of
course actual sharks!). But they aren't always the easiest fish to
keep.> Best regards, Glenn <No problems. Neale>
Columbian Shark help!! 3/14/07 Hi guys: <<Hey,
Andy. Tom with you this time.>> I have some issues with Columbian
Sharks I need assistance with. I've had 2 of these guys in a 20gal
freshwater tank for about 2 months (I bought them when they were
juveniles). I just transferred them over to a 55gal tank that I'm
slowly transitioning into brackish water as I know these guys need it.
<<Andy, you must be one of the people that actually read. Very
refreshing! :) >> However, ever since I put them in the 55gal tank,
they literally just swim facing directly up in the front left corner of
the tank. They do this together (right next to each other) and RARELY
leave this spot. <<Acclimation here, Andy. New
surroundings, etc. How tall is the 55-gallon as compared to the
20-gallon? You might not think it but deeper water affects some fish
more than others. Most of these would fall into the “labyrinth” category
where getting to the surface is critical to their survival but
“low-runners” like your Columbians might be wondering what the heck is
going on.>> I feed them bloodworms, flakes, krill, brine shrimp,
etc. but they ignore all food it seems. It is very strange because they
were acting COMPLETELY normal with huge appetites in the 20gal tank
before I moved them. They also used to stay on the bottom, never the
top corner like this. Any idea what this is? <<My guess
would be that that they aren’t at all “fazed” by the additional swimming
room, just the additional depth. Try dropping the water level in the
tank. Give them the depth that they were accustomed to in the 20-gallon
tank. Going to take some patience and calculating on your part where
converting to brackish is involved but you can do it.>> I'm worried
about them and want to prevent stress/illnesses in them so any advice
would be appreciated!! <<These guys aren’t “deep-water” fish, per
se, Andy. Of course, in the wild the depths are greater than in our
aquariums but you need to think in terms of “longitude” rather than
“latitude” in your tank. Look at how your fish are “built”. They can
adjust, with time, to a “full” tank but you might be hurrying them along
a little too soon. Lower the water level and see whether, or not, this
gets them acting more normally.>> Thanks again, Andy <Mmm, are
social animals... likely are "schooling" with their reflection. I would
try temporarily (for a few weeks) taping a piece of newspaper or such
over the pane they're stuck at. RMF> Re: Columbian
Shark help!! (follow-up question) 3/16/2007 <<Hi, again,
Andy.>> Great idea, thank you for your assistance! I did as you
suggested last night and it already appears to be helping. They ate last
night for the first time in 3 days!! <<Glad to hear it,
Andy.>> One more question for you. In this tank (55gal in the
process of being transferred to brackish), there are also 2 spotted
puffers, 2 Dalmatian mollies, and one ropefish (Yes, they all get
along!). <<Still a good idea to keep a watchful eye
here.>> The sharks, mollies, and puffers gobble EVERYTHING I put in
there for food rather quickly. I'm afraid the ropefish won't be able to
get any food and will eventually starve as he doesn't seem to come out
at all during feeding (I know he's nocturnal). My question is this: Is
there any foods that are specific to ropefish or anything I can put on
the bottom that he'll find when he comes out at night?
<<Unfortunately, Andy, the Columbians are going to be every bit as
interested in whatever foods you select as your Ropefish would be so, it
might be more a matter of “when” than “what”. Live foods are preferred
by both but I would offer that you should stay away from small feeder
fish of any description with your current stocking arrangement. (We
almost universally advise against this anyway from a nutritional
standpoint, however, it can/will “trigger” predatory responses in both
of these fish that the other fish, particularly the Mollies, don’t need
awakened.) You might try a food like sinking shrimp pellets later in the
evening. These make it to the bottom rather quickly and might not get
“picked off” on the way down by the others. The Sharks, as you know, are
scavengers but changing up feeding times may give the Ropefish a chance
to feed while the others are less active.>> Thank you again for your
assistance, I love this website and you guys are a HUGE help! Andy
<<Thanks, Andy. We certainly appreciate that. If I may, while you’ve
just recently “upgraded” your tank, you’ll need to keep in mind that
your Columbians will need even more room down the road. These guys grow
very large and the typical recommendation is about 50 gallons per fish.
I suspect you are already aware of this but I like to point this out
when the opportunity presents itself for our other readers. Keep up the
good work and good luck with your new tank. Tom>>
Arius
seemanni dis./injury, beh. 8/1/06 Hey Guys, I
think your web site is great and I have learned a lot from you guys.
Anyway I have a Arius seemanni he is about 6.5in and mostly just swims
around the top of my tank. <Is a social species... should be kept in
a small grouping> The other day he jumped out I was luckily there
and put him back into the tank, he immediately started swimming like
nothing happened. I did notice that his eyes where kind of foggy and he
seemed to bump into stuff more often. <Likely "rubbed" its eyes...
damaging them> But as of today 6/28 his eyes look good and I was
told he had an infection. What do you think? <I would do nothing in
the way of chemical additions here... Likely will self-cure...> Also
he is in full saltwater and all the water parameters are perfect. He
has no other catfish friends and I was wondering if he would be happy
and school with coral catfish? <Mmm, no... Birds/catfishes of a
feather/fin flock/school together... Better to have others of the same
species... even if they start off considerably smaller in size> If
so how many should I get? thank you for your and knowledge Joe
<Bob Fenner> Lonely Schooling Columbian
Shark 7/28/06 Hey Guys, <Hi Joe, Pufferpunk here> I
think your web site is great and I have learned a lot from you guys.
<Glad to hear it!> Anyway I have a Arius seemanni he is about 6.5in
and mostly just swims around the top of my tank. The other day he jumped
out I was luckily there and put him back into the tank, he immediately
started swimming like nothing happened. <I hope you add a nice,
sturdy cover to that tank after that!> I did notice that his eyes
where kind of foggy and he seemed to bump into stuff more often. But as
of today 6/28 his eyes look good and I was told he had an
infection. What do you think? <Whatever it was, seems to be gone
now.> Also he is in full saltwater and all the water parameters are
perfect. He has no other catfish friends and I was wondering if he
would be happy and school with coral catfish? If so how many should I
get? <Since this is a schooling species, he would definitely like
some friends like himself. The fact that they can reach sizes of around
18" though, means a HUGE tank in their future, for a school of
5-6. ~PP> Thank you for your and knowledge, Joe Columbian
Catfish & Brackish Water 6/25/06 Hello! <Hi Lou, Pufferpunk
here> I have a few questions for you! First--a little history. We
set up a 10 gallon community tank for our 7 year old last fall. All
was well--he does a great job testing the water and caring for his
fish. <Good for him, at 7! I bet he had a little
help...> Anyway, Christmas Eve, my sister-in-law bought him two
silver-tipped sharks and an algae eater. (Even after I told her that
his tank was at capacity and a PEACEFUL tank.) <Bad,
bad, bad idea to ever give pets as gifts! I hope she was well scolded!>
She gave them to him at 9 pm Christmas Eve, so we had no choice but to
put them in the 10 gallon tank. They did very well but got fairly
large. <No surprise there--they can get to 18" if housed
properly.> All three are at least 6 inches long.
<Ummm... do you have 2 or 3?> We started to have water trouble and
one of our zebra danios mysteriously, completely disappeared.
<Gulp! Large water changes are in order for these fish, with voracious
appetites & lots of waste in return.> We moved the sharks and algae
eater into a 55 gallon 3 weeks ago. (We do keep the water brackish
for them). <The other fish you have will not appreciate
any salt. As far as "brackish" what do you mean? Even for very low-end
BW (a specific gravity of 1.005), it would require roughly around a cup
of marine salt/5gallons. At the size your Columbian sharks are now,
they should be around mid-range BW, 1.010 (you'll need a hydrometer to
measure SG). They will require marine conditions as adults (at least
1.020). They are also schooling fish. So for a school of 18" fish,
you're going to need a really HUGE tank! (Time to go back to the
sis-in-law for more scolding!)> My first questions are about the
sharks. They have always swam together. Now that they're in the bigger
tank, we can see them better. They swim almost vertical and push their
whiskers out of the water near the filter. Is this normal?
<Is there enough current or air-flow in there? Check the water
parameters (ammonia, nitrIte, nitrAte, pH)> They are very skittish
and when startled, shoot back and forth across the tank at lightening
speed. <They might need more decor to feel safe. Even
some floating plastic plants might help (live plants don't do well in
BW)> They appear healthy and are growing like crazy but seeing
their bellies constantly seems strange. I thought they were bottom
feeders? <Generally anything with whiskers are.>
Today they are actually swimming separate more, which is shocking and
not constantly at the top but still going up the sides. Also, could
they mate? What would we look for? (Just baby sharks?) <Possibly
but not in those conditions & tank size. They will probably stunt in
there.> We also have 3 tiger barbs and a gourami in the 55 gallon
tank. <Opps! Not BW fish.> The barbs seem to nip each other
and chase around in circles a lot. Is this normal? Are they being
"playful" or trying to harm each other? It seems like the same two
going at it while the third darts in and out between them. <Typical
barb behaviour.> In a couple weeks, we were going to add another
gourami. <Not a BW fish.> Any
other suggestions? We'd like a colorful tank but don't want to load up
on any more fish that will get so big! What about a Bala? <Balas
grow huge and again are not BW fish. I think you should stick with
these 2 (or 3?) & start saving for a larger tank & bags of salt. They
are fast-moving, active fish that may be disturbing to peaceful
fish. Do more research on BW fish. ~PP> Thank you very much for
your help!! Lou
Sharks <Arius cats> and a new tank 5/2/06 Hi, <Hello>
I have read quite a few posts but have not found an answer to my
problem. Here it is. I bought 3 black fin shark <Arius...>, 3 platy and
1 pleco (from Wal-Mart, not sure what I was thinking). After reading the
little description card I take these guys home, set up their tank and
put them in it along with two live plants. That evening they were ok but
the next evening one was swimming upside down at the top of the tank and
seemed to be gasping for air. I immediately cleaned the tank which
seemed to be very dirty and placed them in a holding bucket and pumped
air in thru an air stone. It seemed very happy and normal again. I went
out and bought a filter, a thermometer, heater, and an extra air tube. I
already had the aquarium salt and air pump. Well I moved them to a 10
gal tank and setup all of the equipment. Good...everything back to
normal..... Until today, again this shark, now swimming vertical and
gasping for air at the top of the tank but not yet upside down. I don't
get it because the other two are not acting this way. They like swimming
in the air bubbles and lurk around the bottom of the tank. I am on my
way to purchase a second air pump because for some reason I think this
fish is short on air supply. So my question is what in the world is
going on with this shark or is this normal?? I've only had them for 2
days now and am very uninformed and now confused. Oh and they are only
about 2-3 inches long right now. I appreciate any advice or info you
can provide. Jennifer <The short answer is that the tank
needs to be cycled. Please consider returning the fish and waiting
until the tank is properly prepared for them. The long answer can be
found here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwset-up.htm ,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwtips4beginners.htm and
perhaps most importantly here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm >. Good
luck and with a little preparation I'm sure you will be successful>
<Chris>
How to move big Colombian catfish
12/15/05 Hello. I appreciate all of the info on your web site and
spend hours reading it. Here is my problem: One of my eight tanks is
a 75 gallon brackish (SG about 1.013) with a trio of 8-9" Colombian
catfish (Hexanematichthys seemanni); the oldest one is about two years
old. They all look fat and healthy and, of course, just keep getting
bigger. They're quite beautiful and impressive. <I'll bet... a
gorgeous fish at this size> I haven't yet decided whether to move
them to a bigger tank with better filtration and a skimmer (I planned to
take them up to or near full marine) or to trade them in at a
knowledgeable local store that sometimes handles brackish fish and has
agreed to take them. Either way, I have to move these fish out of their
current home. How should I go about catching such large, powerful, jumpy
fish without injury to me or them? Every time I clean the tank I worry
about getting speared, and they have a tendency to bang into the ends of
the tank and scrape themselves on the filter intake tube when alarmed.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide. --Brackish in
Tampa <I would (carefully) drain the tank down, remove decor,
heater... and scoop these fish out one or two at a time in doubled fish
bags of good thickness (4 mil)... pouring some/enough water out to not
tweak your back in the process. Do take care to "not get poked" by their
spiny dorsal and pectoral fin rays (as you state...). Bob Fenner>
Silver-Tipped (Columbian) Shark 8-19-05 <Pufferpunk here>
OK, another question. My sharks seem to be happier in their bigger (55
gallon) tank, but they seem to favor one corner and they also swim up
and down a lot, staying in the same spot. Not at the top like they
can't breathe, but closer to the bottom. When someone walks over to the
tank, they do as normal fish do and swim away. Should I be concerned
with this behavior? Thanks, Kate <Sounds like
perfectly normal behaviour for your fish. Glad they have more room! I
hope you are planning to upgrade, as they outgrow the 55g. ~PP>
-Columbian Shark Problems- Hello there, <Hi> I've recently
tried adding Columbian Sharks to my 25 gallon tank with no luck. After a
few days, they seem to change from black to grey. They look like they
almost get a whitish coating and have trouble breathing. <yes sounds
like you tank water quality might be off. Check the Ph, ammonia,
nitrites, and nitrates.> In the tank with them are a couple of
guppies, some Tetras, a small white catfish, and two little frogs.
Everyone else seem happy. My tank is about a year old. Any ideas as to
what might be happening? What conditions do the sharks like best?
Thank you for your help! Sylvia <Yes Columbian Sharks are a brackish
water species that prefers a salinity of 1.005 to 1.008. If you choose
to keep them, you need to keep them in a separate tank as the other fish
are not brackish water fish. the reason the sharks are dying is because
of the tank quality being off a bit probably and the sharks being
brackish water fish. Good Luck. Justin (Jager)>
Columbian shark Hi, my name is Chris, <Hello, my name is
Bob> I have recently purchase a Columbian shark for my 65 gallon
aquarium. My question is that all day he swims the same pattern around
the top of my tank, is this normal for him to do? <Yes, a very
active catfish> My sg is 1.007, ph is 8.2, water temp is 79,
nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia is 0, and phosphates is 1.0. Other tank
mates are: 5 African cichlids, 2 blood parrots, 1 scat, 1 Mono Argenteus
and one tiger barb. Any help would be appreciated.
<Help with? Your cichlids may not "like" the salt content indefinitely.
Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ariidcats.htm and the Related FAQs
(linked above). Bob Fenner> Iridescent sharks flipping out Hello, My name
is Ted and I'm from NJ. This is the first time I'm submitting a question
on this site though I've been on it many times. I think you guys are
awesome and really appreciate all of your help and knowledge that you
share. Thank you. Ok, here's my problem. I have two quite
large iridescent sharks, one about 9" and the other about 12". I have
recently moved them into a 72 gallon bowed front tank. Health wise they
seem to be doing fine but they are getting spooked very easily. I've
been leaving a couple of bags of gravel on top of the canopy because I'm
afraid that I'm going to find one on the floor one day. <Good move>
I have a feeling that being that its a bowed front that any outside
objects or light might be making them flip out. <Possible> I never
had a problem with them in their last tank. Though they were with other
fish, and the tank was highly over stocked. (the two sharks, an Arowana,
a parrot, a silver dollar, a Pleco, a clown loach, and a golden algae
eater in a 90g) Obviously you can see why I moved them. I don't know,
maybe its the tank, or maybe its the lack of aquatic friends. What do
you make of it? <Mmm, the crowding and shape of this tank are
problematical, but the worst trouble here is that these catfishes at
this size are generally marine... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ariidcats.htm and the related FAQs linked
above. Bob Fenner>
|
|