T-5s for Euphyllids and Freshwater live plants – 06/11/07
Hi Crew,
I have been reading your FAQs for days now learning as much as I can. I have some questions about using T-5s for Euphyllids and Freshwater live plants.
<Okay>
I am planning on setting up my 55 gallon and two 25 gallon tanks (arranged in a L, all the same height)
<Really? The 25's must be custom... the stock 55 is some 22" tall>
for one combined reef (by powerheads and piping) for strictly Euphyllids. I would like to keep an Elegance coral on the sand bed (shooting for a 5-6" DSB) so the coral would be about 14" from the surface.
<Mmmm>
Would T-5s suffice for the Elegance,
<Could... depending where this specimen was collected... do see WWM re... some Catalaphyllia are still collected (correctly for aquarium use) from relatively shallow waters...)>
and a variety of related corals (Bubble, Hammer, etc)?
<Mmm... not really a good idea to mix these "very stinging" species... esp. with the Elegance>
Also, I am confused how many of the 54 watters I'd need on the 55 or 24s on the 25 gallons? Would you recommend the 108 watt for the 55 or the 216 watt?
<The latter>
Would 48 watts on each 25 gallon work?
<Not really. Need, could use easily twice this wattage for this depth, intended stocking>
I am planning on a DSB in there too. At first I was thinking about doing PC light, but I liked how the T-5s lasted longer.
<Yes>
I also have two 29 gallon tanks side by side that I am planning on doing with freshwater plants. What wattage of T-5s would I need for the higher requiring live plants?
<Mmm... well, more to this story than raw wattage (per gallon et al.) but about the same "thumb" measure as the marines... Depending on the species of plants kept, what you want to do with them, how and what you intend to supplement with (fertilizers, soil, CO2...)... Do understand these co-factors... what your desires and capabilities are>
I was thinking about micro swords, Rotala, Cabomba and the like.
<Ahh! These can "get by" on 2,3 watts per gallon in this size/shape container... More would boost their metabolism... which to optimize growth, looks... would need to be matched with other circumstances... as noted>
On a different note, I heard about the really bad luck with Elegance corals lately. Does that only apply to wild caught specimens? Would an aquacultured one be immune to what is happening?
<Yes's all the way around... if you can secure a cultured colony this would be ideal>
Thanks much!
Ty
<Welcome my friend. Bob Fenner>

Oceanic 29 Gallon Bio Cube. Euph/(frogspawn) in Nano Reef?  – 05/08/07
Hi crew.
<Hi.>
Before I get to the question I just want to say how helpful the site is.
<Go on……………>
VERY!!!
<Great; thanks!>
Anyways I would just like to know if you think that the Oceanic 29 Bio Cube has lights powerful enough to keep a frogspawn coral healthy and happy?
<Tis’ borderline. Not only the lighting but the size of the aquarium will make it difficult to keep the chemistry stable for this animal. But it is doable.>
It comes with 2 36w pc's.
<I would make sure both are 10,000k bulbs and replace them every 6 to 9 months as PC’s depreciate in lumens at an alarming rate in comparison of other types of lighting.>
If it is not, I heard of this  website called nanocustoms.com where they mod nanosystems. I just want to know what you think of this site,
<Am familiar with it. Have not used it personally, though I know many who have and have been very satisfied. Can’t give you a personal opinion really as I have nothing to base it off of. Having said that modding the original set-up may void the warranty. And I believe, though I am not sure, that nanocustoms gets around this by offering their own warranty. At the least it is something you should look into.>
if you've heard of it and would 4 36w pc's be enough?
<Yes but then there are heating issues to be concerned about.>
Also they have a skimmer on that site that fits into the back of the Bio Cube made by Sapphire which I never heard of, do you know if it is a good quality or not?
<No am not familiar with it either, though any skimmer is better than none….to many nano-‘ers go skimmer-less. Read this to; http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .>
Just looking for your input.
<^^ There it is.>
Thank you.
<Welcome, Adam J.>

Frogspawn setup -lighting question.   8/4/06
Dear Bob, WWM crew,
  I can't thank you guys enough for all the advice I've received with my past reef and FW setups. I came across your website and read CMA and Anthony's book on coral propagation after I set up my reef and have relied on you for help. For the first time, I'm actually setting up a smaller reef tank after reading on your website and the above mentioned books.
  My goal is to house two frogspawns -one Euphyllia divisa and one Euphyllia paradivisa. AND NOTHING ELSE -except for macro algae, live rock and live rock hitchhikers. I currently have a 20 gal "Long term QT" that is housing 15# live rock, 4" DSB, red kelp, Chaetomorpha and the two corals. These will be transferred to the new setup over the course of 6 months or so... after the new DSB matures.
  I had a 45 gallon acrylic tank built for this -dimensions: 24" X 24" foot print and 18" height, with a 20 gallon sump. I have a Remora Pro with Mag3 pump, and an Eheim 1250 return pump -with a 3' head, this should flow about 240 gph. The return is plumbed thru a SCWD with nozzles on either side at the back of the tank. In the middle of the back side of the tank, I'm planning on adding either a sea swirl of one of those oscillating power heads for an additional 200ish gph flow by the time the corals make the move. That's about a 15X turnover...
  The tank will have a 5" DSB with 12" of water and about 30# of live rock. The system water volume is about 40+ gallons, with 28 gallons or so in the display, 12-14 in the sump/circulation.
Questions:
a) I have some polyp and mushroom coral hitchhikers on the LR -I'm on the fence as to what to do with them -remove them or let them be? I don't want to deal with any chemical aggression between the three groups.
b) Lighting options -I want to use a single HQI bulb to light the center of the tank so I can have glimmer lines and adequate lighting near the center of the tank with subdued lighting along the walls and rim to encourage coralline algae growth. The bulb will be exactly over the center of the tank, with one coral offset 4" from the center and the other offset about 8" from the center along a diagonal -I hope this makes sense to you. I don't know if I should go with a 70W or 150W HQI bulb -15,000K spectrum. Heat is not a consideration, as I'm willing to use a chiller if that's what it comes down to, but I don't want any more light than what I can get away with.
Thank You,
Narayan
<<Narayan:  Frogspawn generally likes medium to high light and medium flow.  I have one about half way down in a 180 tank under 400W SE MH lights and another at the bottom of a 75 tank under VHO lighting.  Both of them are growing and doing fine.  When mushrooms get near the frogspawn, they lose.  Thus, I don't think you have much to worry about.  As far as lighting, you can use either bulb.  You seem to being planning a lot of flow.  Frogspawn will not like to be blasted by a lot of flow.  You'll have to direct the jets of water away from it.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Bubble Coral health, systems  - 05/17/2006
Hello everyone,
I have read and read on your site and others about my problem.  I have been in the hobby of reef aquariums for approximately two years.  I cannot seem to keep a bubble coral alive.  Everything I read states they are a hardy, good beginner coral.  I have a 110 gallon with approximately 160-200 pounds of live rock, various fish and many corals.  Nitrite, ammonia, are zero, calcium 360-400, ph 8.3 to 84, alkalinity (test kit is in high range color), nitrate 20-30ppm.  I dose every morning with B-Ionic and add 16 drops of iodine daily.  I installed a refugium around three months ago.  I also have an Excalibur skimmer, chiller, 400 watts of MH in addition to actinic blue lights.  I do a 20 to 30% water change weekly, with RO water, aerate it for couple of days, heat water to same temp. in aquarium, etc.
My bubbles always do great for four to six weeks.  Then, the septa's begin turning black and ½ to ¾ of the bubble stops opening up.  I feed the bubble nightly with Mysid shrimp.  Each time this has happened, the bubble coral was on the bottom of the tank.  The last time this happened I moved it about half way up the tank.  The remaining few bubbles did fine for around two months, then the bubbles just stopped inflating and died.
I am very stubborn and determined to get a bubble to live.  This time I have purchased a large bubble coral and am hoping for the best.  What am I doing wrong?  I have an elegance coral and other more difficult corals doing very well.  Any help would be very much appreciated.  
Thank you,  
Robin R. Shelton
<<Robin: Do you know specifically what species you have?  In general, Bubble Corals like moderate light and low to med flow.  With your lighting, I would think they would like a quiet place on the sand.  As you know, many reefers regularly get their tanks to 0 Nitrates.  Thus, for corals 20-30 ppm would be considered quite high.  For me, having a skimmer solved part of the problem.  The rest was solved by growing Chaeto algae in the sump.  For you, switching from RO to RO/DI should also help. Why are you dosing iodine? Most people don't and a general rule of thumb is don't add something you can't test for.  Until you resolve your nitrate problem, you it would be better off not to introducing more corals into your tank.  Take a look at the links I have attached.  Given your previous luck with Bubbles, I think a smaller one would better handle the transition to a new tank than a big one that spent a long time living somewhere else.  Best of luck,  Roy
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm>>

Euphyllia cristata and Echidna nebulosa  - 2/4/2006
Dear crew,
   <Jessica>
  First of all, if I could thank you once for each time you have already saved me from myself....you would never again hear words that weren't coming from me.  I use this website everyday since I decided to set up a salt water tank.  I have probably logged a thousand hours here, but luckily, no one is counting.  Suffice it to say, "Thanks a million."
   <Welcome>
  On to the questions.  I finally got a 125 up and running, after replacing a cracked panel and plumbing a closed loop, cycling for 5 weeks, all the while curing live rock, and then cycling a little more when I added the rock.  Tank inhabitants and parameters:
  Salinity: 1.023-1.024, depending on whether or not I have topped off for the day, I seem to need about four gallons a day in top off.  pH: 8.3-8.5, again dependent on time.  Total Ammonia: 0.0  Nitrite: 0.0 Nitrate: 0.0 (Controlled with 25 gallon weekly water changes, plus hardly any livestock right now).  Ca: averages 400  Alk: 9-10 dKH.  Phosphate: 0.1 (must be from food for the fish)
  Also, running a 60 gallon sump with protein skimmer, producing about 1/4-1/2 cup every one to two days, some activated carbon, and PolyFilter pads are on hand if necessary.  Judging by the smell when I empty it, the skimmer is performing quite well.  Coming soon, a 20 or 30 gallon upstream fuge, planned to be fed skimmed and filtered water from the sump and gravity drained to the display.
<Sounds good>
Also coming soon: test kits for Iodine/ide, silicates, and dissolved oxygen, mostly because I want them, but some because of what I am about to ask.  Livestock: 5x C. viridis, 1x N. magnicifica and whatever is living inside the ~110 lbs. of live rock (there is also some rubble in the sump).   
  Question 1:  How does this sound for a stocking list?
I would like to add 2x A. ocellaris, 1x Z. flavescens, and 1x V. puellaris for fish, 2x T. crocea clams (in another 6-7 months), and for corals, well, this will be more difficult.
<Fine thus far>
  I know that it is not recommended to mix softies with stonies, however, how dangerous would it really be to have 1x T. peltata (on top of the rocks, center of the tank, under a 175w 14000K MH lamp, the other two lamps are both 175w 10000K), 2x T. geoffroyi (on the substrate in front of the rocks), and then throw some Xenia in the mix?
<Could>
I would like to add the Xenia, also on top of the rocks, at both ends of the aquarium.  I know this stuff grows like crazy, but I have decided I like it, and a tank full of it is ok with me.  The other coral I would like to add is either a E. divisa or E.  cristata, I am not sure which.  This is in a friend's tank, who would like to get rid of it.  I don't know why she has it, but she doesn't want it anymore.  It is
healthy and not causing a problem in her tank, she is just indecisive.  If this coral would be appropriate in this mix, where would be the best place to put it?  
In the rocks, or on the substrate?  
<On the rock, about half way up, maximally exposed to light, current>
I have read that some Euphyllids prefer the substrate, with low flow.
<Really only Catalaphyllia... all others are found on hard substrates in the wild... even Plerogyra... that appear to be on the sand>
This one seems to not have tentacles that come out, so I am thinking the rock would be ok as far as it not jeopardizing other corals (I have watched it all night before, it just deflates, but otherwise seems to do nothing. Also, it seems to eat meaty seafood that is put in her tank, it will "catch it" and the food slowly sinks into the tentacles, but I don't know where it goes from there.)  Can this work?
   <Yes>
  Question 2:  I know a guy who has a 9"-10" E. nebulosa in a 30 gallon tank.  We (me and the guy) both know this won't work.  What I would like to know, is can this eel live happily (or more happily, at least) in a 50 gallon tank?
<Not indefinitely>
  I have one that is 36x18 footprint, and it would at least be better.  I would like to take this eel off this guy's hands, but I don't want it to be as miserable as he looks right now (I suspect he may have some nutrition problems, as well).  If this eel is the only tank inhabitant, can I have him?  He has been known to eat fish, so I don't think I would risk putting anything else in with him, and the lighting for the tank won't support many fancy corals, so I would do FOWLR for him.  If you were me, would you take him?
<... not to keep forever in a fifty>
(Of course, weekly maintenance and the extra expense don't really matter, we have enough aquarium stuff laying around, with the exception of a skimmer, that it won't be hard to outfit, and what is another 50 gallons of water when you
already have about 400 captive gallons?  Just a drop in the bucket!)
   So, I am looking forward to your input as an experienced aquarist.  I am really enjoying my first saltwater tank.  Thanks to you folks at WWM, I haven't QT'd anything that wasn't healthy (not that I have made many purchases anyway), and my tank is already flourishing with coralline growth, the Chromis are growing and beautiful, and Flick, the firefish is a hoot.  What great times these are, huh?   
  Thanks for all you do,
  Jessica Groomer
<Glad to see this positive note, history and attitude! Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn Placement   1/4/06
I run a 29 gal tank....i have a combo 150 watt halide 10k/ 2x65 watt actinics
....i bought a frogspawn coral and is close to the bottom with a med- decent
flow on it....any suggestions here on where it should go?
<With this lighting, your placement sounds ideal. I would not place it much higher than this. Adam J.>

Bubble irritating coral 8.30.05
Hi crew, I just noticed the hammer coral I bought a
week ago tends to 'spit' a mucousy substance whenever I turn on the bubbles.
<Hmmm... I'm not sure what you mean by "turning on the
bubbles", but regardless... microbubbles and large bubbles alike are irritating to some corals like your
Hammer for which exposure is unnatural (versus intertidal species).>
Obviously, it doesn't like the current or bubbles very much - is the 'spit', or excretion,
harmful to the rest of the corals?
<It is mucous, and in this case (Hammer's are aggressive and noxious), yes... it can be harmful to
other corals, aside from being stressful to the hammer.>
(It looks just like spit.) Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks! Steph
<Accomplish aeration instead via a protein skimmer and
general high water flow (sans bubbles). Anthony>

Plerogyra Sinuosa placement 8/1/05
Hey Crew, Did I read somewhere that this bubble coral should be placed on the substrate? I've been looking for days and I just cant find it again. (That's if it does exist) I've had this one for 2 yrs. sitting on the LR. Leave well enough alone ? GREAT JOB YOU ALL DO. Thanks, TOM <This coral will generally do well anywhere, but they naturally grow attached to solid substrate, so up on the reef structure is ideal.  First and foremost... if it ain't broke... don't fix it!  Some people recommend putting any flesh large polyped coral on substrate to help prevent abrasion risk to the tissue, but this is not necessarily natural or necessary for all of them.  Best Regards.  AdamC.>

Tunze Stream microbubbles and water circulation around Euphyllids. 7/22/05
Hi Anthony (or else...:),
<Hi Dominique, Ali here (please don't kill me)>
I bought two 6000 Streams and a 7095 controller for my system.
<Great pumps, great choice, great investment>
I have a 90 gal reef tank (48"x24"18") with sugar fine DSB. I have only Euphyllids (torch and hammer corals) and pulsing xenia. Will add some Montipora digitata at some point. I reduced the power to 30% on the streams. On the multicontroller I use the interval no 1 mode with around 30 seconds of interval and the flow is also pulsing from 30% to 100% on each of the two
streams each 6 seconds. This means going from 167 gal (2X per hour) to 555 gal per hour (6X per hour) on each pump alternatively. The two streams are symmetrically positioned to have their flow hitting the middle of the back panel. I placed them quite near to the surface. Also there is a 3X per hour
from the return pump from the fuge.
-Now there is some particles in suspension: dust or air bubbles I do not know (?). There is good agitation at the surface so could be air bubbles.
<Microbubbles are generally caused from your return pump or possibly your refugium output, turn them off and just run your stream pumps. If the microbubbles continue, then you'll know 100% that they are coming directly from the streams. Additionally, if you have the streams too close to the water surface, they will create a 'vortex' causing water and air to be sucked down, thus producing an occasional jet of bubbles. Here is a direct quote from Roger 'Tunze' Vitko himself regarding the microbubble issue: "Just my experience here- if your pump is making bubbles and it is not from vortexing you really should double check the hole in the magnet rotor for obstructions, your KH and your light intensity/duration. If the bubbles get worse as the day light hours progress it is definitely a gas saturation issue and removing excess algae, cutting back on lighting and lowering KH are the remedies. If the pump has any obstructions to the cooling system, the internal vacuum increases and more degassing occurs.">
-Could this be too much current for the Euphyllids? Is it ok when the polyps are bending from time to time (not just curling but really bending at a 90 degrees angle...). The polyps are still well extended tough.
<Don't sweat it. They're happy. Unless you see total tissue retraction and/or tissue literally being blown-off of the skeletons this is not something you should worry about>
I am only a beginner and I worry about those corals now...
< :D 90 degree bends, you don't have to worry about, it's those dreaded 45 degree angles that you should keep an eye out for,...only kidding of course.>
-Same for my new anemone (green Heteractis crispa with purple tips): some tentacles are sometimes completely twisted because of the current (giving the tentacle an hour-glass shape...). Can this cause problems?
<No>
-Do you have any advice for the settings of the multicontroller and
placement/direction of the streams that would be good for my set up?
<For further advice on how to get the most out of your pumps/controller set-up feel free to browse Roger's Tunze forum, here's the link: http://reefcentral.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=92 >  
Thanks a lot!
Dominique
<No problem friend, enjoy your reef.>

Hammer Coral <placement... systems> 7/20/05
Hello crew!
<Shrina>
I have a question about my hammer coral with flabello-meandroid (sp?)
<This is it>
skeleton.  Where do I put it?
<... off the bottom likely... nearer the middle (on rock) to near surface depending on light intensity, quality>
I have metal halide lighting, and it seems
any coral with green hue does not do well.  I put it mid-tank level (good
light).  It gets very nice non-linear current.
The tank is 220 gallons.  Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, pH 8.2 to 8.4 (depending on
the time of day), Nitrate .20 ppm.
Please help me.  I really like this hammer/anchor coral.
Thanks in advance.
Shrina
<I would leave this colony where it is. Have you read through the materials on Euphylliids on WWM? Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn and hammer coral question 7/6/05
I have a small frogspawn (2 inch across) and 2 hammers (1 1.5 inch across & 5 inch across).  Can these 3 corals be placed together in close proximity without them killing each other?
<Keep a minimum of 8" between LPS specimens to avoid sweeper tentacle wars.  I would also use carbon in LPS tanks to cut down on allelopathic chemical concentrations in the water>
Thanks,
S> Montgomery
<Anytime - M. Maddox>

Euphyllia / Place in Substrate or Not
I was hoping you may be able to help me clear up some confusion regarding placement of Euphyllia near the substrate. I have read, heard about, and seen it placed in a variety of configurations.
<Me too... in aquariums and the wild>
Notably, I am curious about branching types such as glabrescens, paradivisa, and parancora. The question is, is it good / can it be placed directly in the substrate,
<Can>
so that the apparently dead beginning of the branch is under the substrate, but not so much that the polyps are ever in contact with the substrate causing irritation and mucous generation. Or, should any part including the skeleton be in contact with rock only.
Thanks,
Erik Cornelissen
<Over time, I do think it best to place the genus Euphyllia at least near the bottom/substrate... for nutrient and other considerations (granting more room, flexibility to hobbyists who would use the upper, rocky areas for other less-competitive cnidarian species). Bob Fenner> 

Euphylliid Lighting
Hi Love your site, it has been super helpful in my never ending journey of reefkeeping knowledge acquisition. But I have not been able to locate a specific answer to a question that I have about lighting. First my tank.
120 show 48x24x24
100 lbs or so of live rock
Lightly stock[ed] with fish
2 Chromis
1 Tomato clown
1 Rose BTA
1 Ornamental wrasse
1 Purple tang about 6"
1 Jewel Damsel or Javanese Damsel
1 Cleaner shrimp
1 Chocolate seastar
1 purple urchin
1 emerald crab
Asst snails
And for the corals
1 torch
1 frogspawn
1 anchor
1 branching anchor
1 colony of orange polyps
I love the Euphylliids.
<Me too>
Parameters
Temp 75
pH 8.2
Nitrates 5 ppm
My lighting is 1 - 250 watt metal halide and 4 NO 40 watt fluorescents. I know that these corals appreciate moderate light, but according to my lighting setup where would be the ideal place to put my corals? 
<Mmm, somewhere nearer the "center" of the tank and mid-depth... assuming the MH is about centered over the tank>
Currently they are on the bottom of the tank set in the substrate. With appropriate spacing between them, don't need WW III in my tank. Would this placement be considered appropriate given the species? 
<Well... in the wild most Euphylliids (Some folks accept that Catalaphyllia has been moved to another family recently, but I'll mention it here as the oddball) are located "on rock", not in/on the sand/mud... except for Elegance...>
Also on another note, over time how many of these corals could I place in this tank, or would you recommend?
<Depends... on now often you want to "frag" them, how much you intend to boost their growth (with lighting, feeding, CO2 infusion...), how much water, chemical filtrant expense you intend... better to stock all while they're small, and hold off on adding any more... trimming as they grow nearer to each other... letting them 'get used' to each other chemically...>
I also have my eyes on some green star polyps, but am not sure what is compatible. I've looked over the compatibility for both genera, maybe I'm missing it.
<I would advise against the GSP... in general here... too invasive, problematical to restrict their spread>
One more, I hope that I'm not asking too much, what other corals would be ok to have here? I am open minded to any opinions you might share.
<This is a too big question for here... at least for me. I encourage you to present it to the various specialized BB's (e.g. Reefcentral, Reefs.org, and enjoy the "debate" this input will inspire... but not to listen to them (or me for that matter), but let this lead you further into study>
Thanks for your time, and for the generosity of this site. It is my go to source for info.
<Let it be a springboard to your continued searches, understanding and enjoyment. Become yourself my young friend. Bob Fenner>

Lighting for one New to Corals
Well I've been reading a lot and I love this site!!  I've just started out in corals. Well to make a long story short I was told by my LFS that this compact would be all I need for the corals I want. Well I just bought a hammerhead coral (Euphyllia ancora) and they said the lighting will be okay it's a 55g tank with 48in. compact 2 65 watt true actinic o3 blue and 2 65 watt 10,000k total of 260 watts I but the coral halfway up in the tank is the  lighting enough for this coral. My other corals or okay I hope! Colt coral, mushroom, pipe organ, yellow leather, flower pot and xenia's are all doing great but not so sure about that hammerhead. Thanks a lot for your help; Audrey Bowens
<Should be fine, give the hammerhead time to acclimate. James (Salty Dog)>

Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) placement
I have a question about lighting requirements for the torch coral.
Since placement on a sandy bottom is preferred, 
<placement on the sand bottom is neither preferred or recommended. This Euphylliid occurs only on hard substrates in the wild and will suffer if forced to purge sand deposited by sifters. The confusion may stem from the fact that such coral care best often in the bottom 1/3 of the tank under metal halide lights. Indeed... they do not like or require extremely bright light. They do however need weekly feedings with fine minced meaty foods>
would it get enough light in an 20" tall tank even though I am only using 2 96 watt 10K power compacts? Thanks
<it may not get enough light here, but you can compensate for the lack of light to some extent with extra feedings (weekly instead of a few times weekly). Best regards, Anthony>

Re: Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens)
Elegant Coral
Anthony,
<cheers, mate>
I think I may have been confusing Euphyllia with Catalaphyllia (elegance), this is actually what I wanted to know about. 
<ahhh, yes! You are correct my friend. Indeed they fare best on the sand bottom. The exception in the Euphylliid family>
Can they thrive in low light conditions on the sandy bottom of the tank? My bad.
<no worries... and yes, indeed they can thrive at the bottom of the aquarium. Especially if you have the purple tipped variety which is often indicative of a specimen collected in rather deep waters (60-80 feet down). The key to keeping elegant corals successfully is frequent feeding with very fine foods. They are one of the hungriest coral. If fed almost daily with small bits (never offer larger than 1/4-1/2 inch although they will take it), they will thrive and grow nicely. Your lights will be fine for this coral on the bottom of a 20" deep tank. Help all along with weekly water changes, good skimming and weekly changes of small amounts of carbon to maintain great water clarity. If you haven't read it yet... see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fdreefinverts.htm
and here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm>
Thanks Angelo
<best regards, Anthony>

- Euphyllia in a 20-gallon Mini-Reef? -
Hi folks! I just started reading WWM a few months ago, and I've decided to set up a mini-reef tank. Here's my setup so far (it's been going for about 2 months):
Standard Top Fin 20 gallon tank
96w Aqualight PC hood (2 10,000K and 2 Actinic) < I wasn't aware that they made a 4 lamp 96w Aqualight, are you sure it's not just a 2 lamp unit? Power compact lamps at first look like a double lamp, but they're simply one long thin tube bent in half w/ pins on only one end.>
HOB filter with floss and carbon
25lbs live rock
~18lbs "live" (wet-bagged) sugar-fine aragonite sand <I personally love this stuff, nothing worse than the classic week-long cloud from un-washed sugar-fine aragonite!>
Yellowtail Damsel
3" Bubbletip Anemone
Cleaner shrimp
Emerald Crab
2 x Astraea Snails <Wow, somebody finally spells Astraea right!!! You win... well... nothing, but cool nonetheless!>
Various small hitchhikers
PH 8.2
Alk "Med-High" (according to test kit) <Sounds like you need a new kit, get one that gives you readings in alk or dKH.>
Temp 80 degrees
Calcium 450
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0.1
Weekly 10% water changes, monthly carbon changes <If you run carbon monthly, only leave it in for a few days (a week at most). It absorbs and adsorbs just about all it can in short order and can re-release...>, trace elements and iodine additives, small amount of reef builder in top-off water (trying to get that coralline to grow). :)
Anyway, after much deliberation and research I've decided to trade in the BTA for some kind of centerpiece coral. I've got a 2.5" Yellowstripe maroon clownfish in my quarantine tank right now, itching to get in the main tank (not literally, thank goodness). I'm considering getting some kind of Euphylliid, probably a hammer coral since there is a beautiful 4" or so specimen at my LFS (Pet Kingdom here in San Diego) and I'm hoping my clown will host with it. <It might, although it's almost guaranteed to pair up with your BTA> I'm also planning on adding a Skilter 250 with air stone within the next week or so and turning the HOB filter into a mini-refugium. <Eh, even with the air stone, the Skilter would still be a bit cheesy. How 'bout a SeaClone (gasp!) or even an AquaC remora run by a Rio 800 instead of the MaxiJet?> Will a hammer coral or frogspawn do ok in a 20-gallon tank?  <Sure, go with a frogspawn so you can break parts off if it gets too big, this is very risky with a hammer of the classic growth form.> Also, what other types of corals would you recommend, and how far should they be from the Euphylliid? <Hehe, you'd be surprised how long the sweeper tentacles can get. I'd wait to see exactly how bad they are before choosing a neighboring coral...> I was thinking some zoos, mushrooms, and maybe some yellow or green star polyps. Or... would I be better off with a finger leather for the centerpiece? <That's up to you, a leather coral would be a less aggressive centerpiece though.> I know they're easier to take care of, but I feel confident that I can care for the hammer coral, if the tank size is acceptable. <It's fine, just plan ahead for growth.> I also plan on upgrading to a 50-75 gallon tank within a year, to account for growth and so I can get more fish and corals, maybe start trying to breed maroon clowns. :) <Excellent, have you purchased Joyce Wilkerson's clownfish book yet?>
Anyway, thanks for putting together such a great website! It's like having a second, much smarter brain! <Haha, I wish! -Kevin>
Jarin

Euphyllia 2/8/04
Hi !!
<howdy>
I have a Euphyllia Divisa in my tank and I noticed the other day a brown stringy substance coming off of the polyps of one branch. Just wondering what this might be?
<likely excrement... but if the coral is new and/or the lights are new (bulbs) then it could be light shock and the expulsion of zooxanthellae>
I also just added fish to my tank for the first time two clowns. I was leaving my metal Halides on for 10 hours and my actinic blues on 24/7 should I now turn the actinics off a couple hours after the others?
<10 hours is on the long end for halides... if these lamps are bigger than 175 watts, then you may have too much light and be leaving them on too long.>
do the fish need darkness?
<absolutely!... please keep a consistent light cycle... ~8 hours... 10-12 hours fluorescents, and 12 hours darkness>
Thanks, Rob
<Anthony>

BUBBLE CORAL
Hi there! <Hi Julie, MacL here> I love your site...very informative for us newbies to the hobby.. ok, I have inherited a bubble coral that isn't doing well...minimal bubbles have been out in the week we have had it..<Is it a pearl bubble? One that has the tiny bubbles?> now our bubble is big and beautiful...<Julie I'm sorry a bit confused here, after a week are you saying its gotten better with you? Or are you saying yours that your bubble you have already have is doing well.> water parameters are fine...as well as all the fish and other corals...I am feeding it with zooplankton as well as frozen meaty foods just as I do my bubble...<Sounds like you are doing exactly as you need to with him Julie. Obviously you know what you are doing since your original one is flourishing. It might have been best to put the new one in quarantine so it doesn't spread something to the new one but for now you should be able to tell how its doing by judging by yours. They do take some time to acclimate to new waters, is that possibly what is going on?> how long can it take before I know if it will make it?? <Depends on the individual coral.> or how will I know if it wont?? <They fade very fast, often producing the brown jelly when fading, if you aren't seeing that it is possibly coming back very well.>
thanks for your time....Julie <Julie please let me know how it is doing.  I'm guessing its just a matter of time before it responds to the better situation.>

Bubble Coral
Thank you for all the help received so far.
<You're welcome!>
I have a pearl bubble coral, Physogyra. This coral seems to be doing
ok, but I have heard conflicting reports of correct water movement and light.
<Low to moderate current. Please feed this critter>
I feed a frozen cube of seafood every week.
<I would feed more frequently>
This week doing a water change it was over his position and the water hit him. To make sure that he was ok I fed him some chopped prawn (with shell) and although expelling mucus through irritation, (as I only noticed after giving the food) he was eating a huge lump of prawn! Alternatively I wonder if the mucus is some kind of net like Vermetids use - I didn't see any withdrawn but floating pieces of prawn stuck to it and I only noticed after starting to feed that mucus was being shed. Or are these the sweeper tentacles?
<Sweeper tentacles, while small, are still pretty obvious. They look sort of like strings coming up from the coral>
The coral is just more than half way from the top of the water and the metal halide is around 16 inches above the water.
<Might be better off in the lower level of your tank. It doesn't need really strong light. In fact, it may not fully expand in the presence of really strong light.>
If it helps, the coral was green but has had sufficient light to turn brown.
<Well my friend, some corals change color depending on the lighting scheme. If corals get too much light they can change color to protect themselves. A brown change could easily be too much light. Although IME color change is not a regular occurrence with this type of coral. But...if the coral stays fully expanded and happy most of the time...>
I don't know the type of bulb is in the metal halide.
<I know that most halides are bright. A lot depends on how deep your tank is etc. If  were you I would want to know how many watts, color temperature at least>
He certainly expands all the time under the metal halide.
<Great! Happy holidays! David Dowless>

Re: Coral placement
I have another question for you if I may:
<Rock on my brother>
Hammer (below) has one polyp (of six) which has recently started to retract and extend daily. The rest stay extended day and night.  I can see no reason for irritation but my calcium level has recently risen to 520ppm (it is normally kept at 450ppm) due to a faulty top off switch (I add using top off water), could this be a trigger for such behavior?  
<not a trigger for the behavior, but an actual value of 520ppm is highly unlikely and at grave risk of causing a snowstorm (crystalline carbonate precipitation.. ALK crash!). Frankly, I doubt your test kit is reading accurately, but do confirm and dilute with water changes if true (slowly... nothing fast here please). And if true, what is your ALK? It must surely be on the lower end (below 10 dKH?)>
Is this otherwise normal?
<indeed... no worries on the faster hammer polyp cycles. It could simply be because of nearby flow, fish or critter activity- this specimen gets more detritus and plankton and digests more matter. Many actual possibilities here... none are bad. Best regards, Anthony>

Lighting Up The Galaxy!
Sorry, forgot to mention the galaxy/tooth coral and the pipe organ coral.   This is in reference to the 250 watt MH pendant and if these corals will be okay if placed out to the sides and nearer the bottom.  
Thanks again! Arthur
<Well, Arthur, these corals seem to come from areas that are rather brightly lit, yet turbid, so I think that your positioning idea is good. Good luck! Scott F>

Growing Corals The Right Way
My wife and I recently purchased a piece of frog spawn from our local
fish store.  At the store all of their pieces open up great.  The one we bought was open fully also.  But ever since being in our tank it barely opens  and today seems to be pulled in even further.  The tanks at the local fish store have power compacts on their tank, and we have four 110 watt VHO bulbs. I was wondering if the frogspawns do not like the actinic lights or  do you
think it is a water issue.  My water seems to check out fine.  Ammonia = 0, nitrites= 0 , Nitrates may be around 10 on our American Pharmaceuticals test kit.  I have checked the PH and it is 8.3, I use Seachem's Marine Buffer in my RO water to maintain 8.3.  
<Well, there are a number of possibilities here. Euphyllia species are usually found in deeper water. where they are sheltered from powerful current, and receive indirect light. Actinic light is well-suited to these corals. You may want to relocate the colony so that it is partially shaded for a while. Remember, all corals go through some degree of "shock" from the transport and acclimation processes, and need to be acclimated to a new lighting scheme. Given a little time under diffused lighting, and some careful observation, this coral should begin to open up for you. Anthony wrote a great article that discusses this in more detail. Check this link:   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm   >
I also use Prime to dechlorinate water ( just to
be safe) but I had heard that you should not use a dechlorinator with RO water is this true?
<Well, it seems kind of unnecessary to me>
It is just a old habit I guess. I had a maze coral and
a plate coral that also died.  I measured the alk. on my Red Sea test kit and the ranges on it are low/ normal / high.  My reading has always seemed to read high.  Looking down the sample in the tube compared to the color reference chart it is blue.  Just today I did what one of your archives said to do  1 gallon fresh water 1 teaspoon baking soda and 2 drops of Malachite green (Greenex Brand)  After I put it back into the tank it appeared to have
some long stringy Mucusy looking strands coming out of it.  Is this normal?  
<Well, it seems like a typical reaction for a coral that has been through a potentially shock-inducing experience>
I have not seemed to have any luck keeping the hard corals.  I have a colt coral that is doing fine.  All of the hard corals have been toward the bottom of the tank (75 gallon) The only thing I have not monitored lately is the calcium.  I add about a capful of Kent calcium every other day.
<Well, you should get in the habit of monitoring for any parameters that you are adding stuff for, particularly calcium. You need to know what is going on in the tank so that you can take proper actions as they become necessary. Also, you should consider a more "natural" aggregation of corals. In other words, specialize a bit...Go for soft corals, LPS, or SPS corals. Mixing different types of corals is not a great idea. Sure it's done all of the time, but that doesn't make it right! Many soft corals give off various chemical compounds that are noxious to their neighbors. When you start mixing soft corals and SPS (which does not happen in natural settings, you are essentially exposing animals to chemical "warfare" that they are not evolved to face or resist. You can put together some amazing displays of just softies, or just LPS (a neglected segment of the reef hobby, IMO), etc. Much easier to manage in the long run, IMO!>
Fish in the tank are doing fine.  One more parameter is the salinity.  1.023-1.024.  That is with the plastic hydrometer ( I know they are not that good but cannot not afford a refractometer yet).
<The plastic hydrometers are just fine for our purposes!>
Water temp is 78 degrees.  Are the VHO not enough light for these corals?  (4 -110 watt 2 actinic-2 actinic white, Ice-cap 66o ballasts)
<Should be just fine if your tank is less than 30" deep. VHO is a very versatile and useful light source!>
I have also just upgraded to a Aqua -C EV 120 skimmer.
<A GREAT skimmer, IMO!>
This thing is awesome, I had been using the Classic Berlin with turbo upgrade.  I recommend to anyone the Aqua-C products.  In one week it has skimmed out more than the Berlin did in 2 months.
<You heard it here, folks! That's why we recommend Aqua C skimmers- they consistently do the job!>
I just got an Red Sea ozonizer and my wife does not want me to put it on. She feels it will be bad for the tank, I have read very good things about them on your site.  Can you outline some of the pluses  about ozone for her.
<Well, if used correctly, ozone has a number of benefits that make it useful in marine tanks. First, ozone can reduce the possibility of some diseases spreading throughout your tank, and ozone helps keep water very clear, which really lets your lighting do its job more effectively. Ozone has also been demonstrated to enhance the efficiency of protein skimmers, and helps maintain higher oxygen levels in the water>
The unit I bought has the built in controller and probe.  Where should I put the probe in the sump or in the tank or does it matter?
<I'd try to locate it in the tank>
My wife picked up a book on clearance yesterday "The complete Book Of the Marine Aquarium"  By Vincent B. Hargreaves.  And it says some pretty bad things about ozone and how it nullifies Iodide/iodine.  I am just trying to make the water quality as good
as I can.  Will it kill all the good things that the corals need to eat?  
<Well, if misapplied, ozone can be very destructive. However, if used properly (administered according to the aquarium's size and manufacturer's recommendations), and if excess ozone is passed through activated carbon, it is a safe, effective means of increasing water quality.>
Sorry so long intended to just ask one question and here we are.  I keep telling her to order your book.
<Bob's book is a real treasure! And, while you're at it, put Anthony's "Book of Coral Propagation" on your shopping list, too. If you're a serious fish geek like me, you'll refer to these books all the time! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Re: Bubble Coral
Steve, I fed my Bubble Coral Mysis shrimp using a turkey basin, 
<and please make sure that you thaw the shrimp in seawater and slurp up in seawater. Too often, frozen food thawed in freshwater will shock coral polyps with the sudden affront of less saline water>
however it still has not bloom fully. I turned off my protein skimmer to see if I am over skimming and that didn't change anything either. 
<how long are you waiting to see if a change is effected... days to a week or just a day or two? Patience is so important with new/stressed coral>
I moved it into a shaded spot in the tank and that didn't change anything either. This Bubble Coral seems to be so temperamental, it is the only invertebrate that is giving me a hard time. I am about to put it in my quarantine tank. Is there something else I can do? 
<my friend... please leave this and all coral in a good place...the FIRST time they enter a tank. Moving a coral several times in the first month can kill them... ever more stressed if you do it within the first week. New and stressed coral have little "energy" to keep exporting or cultivating zooxanthellae (among other things) with every whimsical move into a region of new light or water flow. Bubble coral in particular is VERY adaptable to a wide range of light. They do not like very strong or even moderate current. If that is not the case here... then simply have patience, With the recent stress this animals has been subjected too, it may take longer than usual for polyps expansion to occur. A week or more most likely... perhaps several weeks. Also, know that only vesicles (bubbles) extend by day... and only tentacles (feeding) extend naturally by night>
I know this coral is hardy. Thanks
<agreed... have patience and accept my best regards. Anthony>

Re: Bubble Coral
Steven, I took your advice to improve my water quality. I have raised my Alk to 4.2 meq/l, pH 8.4, and S.G.1.025 slowly. I made a mistake with the nitrate, it is 0 ppm.
<All good.>
The only problem I am having is bringing up the Calcium. Right now it is 350 ppm. I use a Kalk drip. Do I make the solution mix a little stronger to bring up the Calcium or is it my Alkalinity bringing my Calcium down?
<I would not worry too much about your calcium level now. Do not let it get any lower, but peak levels of alkalinity and calcium cannot be safely maintained. You seem to be on track now. -Steven Pro>

Hi Bob, Hammer, Firefish...
> Hey Bob,
> How are you?
> <Fine my friend>
> Are you in SD right now?
> <Yes>
> Are you going to go to MACNA in TX
> next month?
> <I hope to>
Fun! I lived in Dallas before moving out here.
<Texas is my fave country in the U.S.>
> What's up?
> <Same ole pet-fish madness>
> I have been going threw my stuff. I am sorting fishy stuff now and it has
> made me dream of my rubble zone tank. Ah :)
> <Well done... have revisited your stmt.s
stmt.s?
<Statements>
> re such information... and produced
> a series of biotopic presentation articles
Cool, cool, cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<Yes: please find some examples here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/MarInd3of6.htm>
> (unfortunately not to be run in
> FAMA, maybe the whole U.S. print mag.s due to non-payment troubles...
Ouch! I hope they pay, that sucks!
<You bet... am owed back to early 02... and am not the only one>
> but
> posted on WWM>
Are they on WWM now? I couldn't find anything.
<Yes... see the area above>
> I was wondering, do you have any pictures you have taken in rubble zones,
> and
> if so, can you send them to me?
> <I think so... will get to in a few weeks... big trip coming up, and much to
> finish before leaving (9/2-17 to Indo.>
What are you going to do over there? You get to travel so much! (Envious)
<Dive, make photographs, video under and above water... chat with people, make outlines for writing projects>
> I would love to see more than a close up of a
> fish with live rock in the back ground to get a feel for the topography.
> <Can you dive? Come with us and see for yourself>
I wish I could. I can't. :(
<Rats!>
> Next, from all the reading I have done, I don't think Hammer Corral
> (Euphyllia
> ancora) is found in rubble zones. Is it?
> <Some... more often found on lower reef slopes>
> What other types of corals and fish
> are found in the same area as hammers?
> <Yikes... will have to study, write up the regions where Euphylliids,
> formerly included in the family Caryophyllid, occur>
> In the ocean, are Hammer corals found
> on top of live rock, or are they found on sand?
> <On rock, but not too far up from the sand of the reef slope>
> Also, what kind of lighting
> would suffice for them?
> <More is generally better... MH or VHO for aquarists>
> In a tank that is not very tall could VHO lighting
> work, or are Power Compacts or MH needed?
> <The latter are better if you want your colonies to fluoresce, grow quickly>
Ooof! I think that just kicked the tank out my price range. Lets see...
To get 6 - 8 Firefish would need 100g or more tank.
Tanks don't seem to get made with a bigger width than 18" until jumping up to
180g range. Are tanks made that are 48" x 24", (48" x 30" even better) or
would they be really expensive special order deals?
<Or do it yourself...>
Would a group of Firefish live peacefully in a 100+g tank, or would they
eventually kill each other off? I would be an unhappy camper if I set up a
tank and ended up with only one or two after a few months.
<Each needs a good two feet square of bottom... so maybe three could live in such a size, shape system>
Okay, back to lighting... MH lights, would need fan, cooler. Eeh gads! My
electrical bill would be out of site. People around here have electrical bills
averaging $450 a month. :0 I couldn't afford that.
<Maybe a roommate? Or two to split expenses?>
> As I think you know, the next salt tank I do, I want to make a biotope.
> Hammer is my favorite coral and if Firefish and mandarins are found with it
> in
> the wild, I would like to make Hammers the centerpiece of the tank. I know
> they can be together in aquariums, but I want to try to replicate a piece of
> the ocean.
> <Good for you>
> Also are clown fish (Percs or pink skunks) really found living in the same
> area as Firefish?
> <Mmm, yes>
> I am off to look at more Fish Magazines and finish watching Lawrence of
> Arabia
> tonight. (I love my DVD!)
> <The original version? A long film, but very worthwhile. Hail Peter
> O'Toole!>
I met him once. He autographed a book which I gave to my mom for Christmas.
(She was soooo happy)
MM
<Great>
> Hope all is going well,
> Madison
> <Yes. Chat with you soon. Bob Fenner>

Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) placement
I have a question about lighting requirements for the torch coral.
Since placement on a sandy bottom is preferred, 
<placement on the sand bottom is neither preferred or recommended. This Euphylliid occurs only on hard substrates in the wild and will suffer if forced to purge sand deposited by sifters. The confusion may stem from the fact that such coral care best often in the bottom 1/3 of the tank under metal halide lights. Indeed... they do not like or require extremely bright light. They do however need weekly feedings with fine minced meaty foods>
would it get enough light in an 20" tall tank even though I am only using 2 96 watt 10K power compacts? Thanks
<it may not get enough light here, but you can compensate for the lack of light to some extent with extra feedings (weekly instead of a few times weekly). Best regards, Anthony>

Anchor Coral, alkalinity
Hi Bob, 
I just wanted to send you a note saying thank you for your help with my alkalinity problem and my Anchor Coral. My alkalinity was very low and my Anchor coral had shown some signs or "receding" on his outer base.
I followed your instructions concerning the baking soda and got the Alk up. My Anchor is doing great and the tissue seems to be growing back slowly but surely. Coralline is also starting to turn back to purple.
Thanks again for your quick response to my problems. Andrew
>>
Glad to be here... and of such service with humble suggestions...
Bob "Arm & Hammer" Fenner

Installing Coral
Bob,
I've looked through "Part III" of your book, and through Julian 
Sprung's "Corals; A Quick Reference Guide" and I can't find any 
guidance for installing corals. I have four corals that I just got 
and they are my very first ones. Two are so-called "Long Tentacle" 
Elegance Corals and two are "Short Tentacle" Elegance Corals.
Their shape, when expanded, is very reminiscent of a mushroom with a 
fringe around the edge. There is a "stump" about 1" in diameter and 
about 1 1/2" to 2" long; and a top that is an oval about 3" wide by 
4" long. The "stump" widens slightly as it approaches the top.
I place the corals into a slight "cup" in the top of the live rock or 
even scratch a 2" to 3" diam by 1/2" deep cup into the rock where 
needed. They all 'open' pretty good and I've fed them with a watery 
slurry of your food mixture on page 145. But in the morning I'll 
find maybe, maybe not, one of them down on the bottom of the tank.
Is there a way to fasten them in place so they'll stay there? Also, 
do they 'cement' themselves down when they're happy with their 
location? If so, how is it accomplished and how long does it take?
Many Thanks, Bob
>>
Sorry to state, this is not a good, sturdy "first" coral species for a new "reefer"... Do take a look at the survey piece I have posted on Elegance, Catalaphyllia at the www.wetwebmedia.com site or the article with pictures in the March issue of Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazine... these animals are found in the wild with their pointy ends stuck down in mud/muck... most folks stick them up in rock, near lights... and die in a short while. Bob Fenner

Please reply ASAP if you can (Caryophyllid Corals)
Mr. Fenner
I have just added 2 anchor corals to my 120 Berlin system. My tank has been up for 4 years. I have 200 pounds of Fiji live rock, 200 of live sand, All of my corals hard and soft are doing fantastic. My 2 anchor corals have been in there for 5 days and neither of them will open more than a quarter of the way open. My lighting is a CSL 2 250watt 65k"s and 2 65watt actinic PC's. All bulbs are new. I have one anchor about half way up to the light and the other on the bottom. My readings are calcium 450, dKH 10, ph 8.3, salinity 1023. temp 78F my current in the tank is a mild turbulence, not too strong. Why aren't my corals opening up all of the way. I purchased the corals from FFExpress a week ago. Can you help me???
<These Euphyllias are likely just not "settled in" as yet. If they were mine however, I would administer a good dose of iodide to the system water. And maybe squirt a dilute mash of food particles their way a couple of times a day (during lights on period). If they don't open but the end of next week, give us a shout back... It may be that the other stinging-celled life in your system is doing them woe chemically. Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn
Hello,
My name is Lori (and I am addicted to reef keeping:))
<Sounds like the personal introductions at "Reefers Anonymous">
and I am a big fan of your book as well as your web
site. They have been a huge help to my learning to
care for my marine tanks. I wish there is a way to
repay you for the help you have given me. 
<You have just done so>
I guess for
now the only thing I can do for you is to take the
best care of my aquariums as I possible can.
<Ahh, yes, and share, help others.>
My 85 gallon reef W/ 30 gallon sump-refugium is doing
well. I have kept the animals that are in there, for
two years now. Wonderful balance one can achieve in
this hobby, mind & tank. :)
<Yes my friend>
I have a frogspawn in my tank that I think is better
at telling me the water quality in my tank then any
test kit. For a week now things have not looked so
good with my frogspawn. It's color has taken on a dull
appearance and it is rather limp. I did my water tests
Ammonia & Nitrite 0
Nitrate trace
pH 8.4 Alk 3.2 Ca 450, all steady
I use RO/DI (on a ranch, well water, yuck!!)
temp 78-80 and SG 1.024
I add weekly to bi-weekly Zoe vitamin, 2 part B-Ionic,
Kent Iodine, all as needed.
I am wondering if you know what could be the matter. I
would say old age but it has flourished, and in 2
years has never given me problems. I see no wounds or
damaged areas. As far a some kind of coral bio-war I
have never experienced it in my system. Could that be
something to take into consideration?
<Mmm, yes>
If you could give me a few hints or ideas I would love
to hear from you. I can give more detail if it is
needed. Thank you again for the wonderful web site and
book.
Lori
<Thank you for your kind words. I would add the vitamin and iodide materials to some chopped fine meaty foods and spray this in your Frogspawn's direction a couple of times a week... and consider adding some newer live rock, macro-algae to your sump (and a light for there) in the hopes of improving its health by improving water quality, supplying some small foodstuffs... and lastly, do check the inception dates for your light/lamps... their getting older may account for this apparent lack of vigor. Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn shedding, Frogspawn shedding
> Gents: I just ordered Anthony's new book, but can't
> wait till it gets here for my answer so here goes...
<<Thanks Stan!!! I shall do my best. I see that I'm
the second to reply, so my responses are in double
carrots.>>
I have a Frogspawn
> coral that has separated
> the soft tissue from the skeletal portion. I think
> this may be due to my
> being lazy and not getting my partial water changes
> done, or is it something else?
<If you have had it for sometime now, most likely
from a lack of calcium
> and/or alkalinity. Test kit can confirm this. If
> new, not unusual when
> proper shipping methods are not used. I prefer to
> have this coral suspended
> upside-down floating from a piece of Styrofoam.
> Getting banged around in a
> bag is not good for any LPS coral.>
<<very much agreed with the first reply above
(Bob/Steve?)... yes, it could be from a lazy/relaxed maintenance schedule... but specifically from allowing calcium and or alkalinity levels to drop. Many other trace elements have also been implicated in this symptom. No doubt some or all are involved. Many are depleted from a system within days to below natural seawater levels (iodine within hours!)...so when a water change alone, not even including additives, has not been conducted for weeks or months corals suffer by attrition. Another factor is feeding. Assuming your light bulbs are new (less than 10 months old) and
appropriate for this animal, it will still starve without supplemental feeding. Caryophylliids (hammer, octopus, elegant, torch, etc) cannot feed themselves on the products of symbiosis alone. As such, they need to be fed weekly for maintenance and almost daily for growth. Without feeding, this can also contribute to the symptomatic attrition ("starving") that you have observed. Anthony>>
> Can I use this tissue to "frag" this coral or should
> I just pick it
> up off the substrate and flush (I'll kill it first
> so as not to inhabit Lake
> Erie with LPS corals)?
> <Best to remove from tank.>
<<yes, must be removed... once bacteria set in, it can
be highly contagious to some other healthy corals in
the tank>>
> Thanks for your reply and I look forward to getting
> into your book. PS. Great idea to allow free
updates to the book. Stan
<<very welcome and thank you again, my friend. And don't forget.. regular water changes and feeding for
this coral (meaty foods, not phyto in this case).
Kind regards, Anthony>>

Frogspawn shedding
Gents: I just ordered Anthony's new book, but can't wait till it gets here for my answer so here goes... I have a Frogspawn coral that has separated the soft tissue from the skeletal portion. I think this may be due to my being lazy and not getting my partial water changes done, or is it something else?
<If you have had it for sometime now, most likely from a lack of calcium and/or alkalinity. Test kit can confirm this. If new, not unusual when proper shipping methods are not used. I prefer to have this coral suspended upside-down floating from a piece so Styrofoam. Getting banged around in a bag is not good for any LPS coral.>
Can I use this tissue to "frag" this coral or should I just pick it
up off the substrate and flush (I'll kill it first so as not to inhabit Lake Erie with LPS corals)?
<Best to remove from tank.>
Thanks for your reply and I look forward to getting into your book. PS. Great idea to allow free updates to the book.
Stan