Snoozing Snails And A Hurting Hammer? I have a 29 G reef tank which I have cycled for 6 weeks with LR and LS. Had the LFS do a water check and they said the numbers were great--- ph 8.4, 1.023, 0 on the ammonia and nitrites. We put in a small Hammer coral on 6/24 which looked fine at the store. It has not "come out of its shell" since.  I have a 70 watt MH light which runs about 7 hours a day. The Hammer seems to be spewing fine silk-like threads fairly often now. What are they? <Hard to say without a pic, but I'll hazard a guess that it's one form of mucus or other organic material. If it is mucus, it's probably some sot of response to a stress of some sort. Or, perhaps the coral is being picked at by one of the other inhabitants of the tank. Do a little re-check of the setup and see if there are any possible culprits. Also, did the coral acclimate to your lighting regimen? Lighting shock is a possible culprit> I also introduced a Turbo snail and 3 bumblebees the morning of the 25th.  The Turbo moved around a lot that first morning but now hasn't even moved for around 48 hours.  Pretty much the same for the bumblebees. Help!!!! <Well, I wouldn't be overly concerned about the lack of movement of the snails, unless they are stinking or missing from their shells all together (perhaps victims of a predator, like a hermit crab, etc). For a variety of reasons, snails will stay in a "dormant" mode for periods of time...In fact, Anthony has a great picture of a snail that fell asleep too long near a xenia colony, and had some polyps grow right onto the shell! These guys will move again...Be patient. I'm sure that they will be fine Regards, Scott F.!

Sick Euphylliid Coral 6/28/03
I have been having a problem with my frogspawn and torch corals.  About four months ago, for some reason, the polyps on my frogspawn and torch would draw in, and within 24 hours the polyp would be shredded and falling off of the skeleton.  
<many possible reasons for this... could be pathogenic from adding non-quarantined organisms (Euphylliids are quite sensitive to bacterial infections>
I did numerous water changes, with quality salt, and deionized
water, and the problem went away. It is happening again.  All water
parameters are great.  
<which I cannot confirm or deny/help you... will take your word on it>
I use a calcium reactor, and a deionized water for
top off.  As for the species of corals in the tank, I have numerous species of hard and soft corals.  I use large amounts of carbon, in numerous bags, and change them out at alternating intervals.
<the info provided is too general, alas to be of much help... no list of number/qty of corals, size of tank, husbandry schedule, detailed symptoms (mucus or know, sloughing, etc?).>
I am wondering if the problem could be with the manner in which the
deionizer is recharged.  
<not likely at all... recharge then purge with a few gallons of water then all is fine to use. If there is any problem it is from improper preparation of DI water (no aeration or buffering for 24 hours prior to salting or use). Also have fear/concern that you are putting that Di is being used raw for top off (Yikes!)>
I use lye for one cartridge and Muriatic acid for
the other, as per the instructions.  
<quite normal and appropriate>
The unit is a Kent Deion 200r.  I run about 20 gallons of water through the units before putting any of the water
into the aquarium.  
<wow... way more than you need to make it safe... but fine>
I have never felt right about putting water into my
aquarium that has been exposed to such chemicals, in any way, but that's what Kent says to do.
<a better understanding of chemistry would reassure you just how safe and easily neutralized these chemicals are... no worries>
I am at a loss.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  My alternative is to not have any large polyp corals.
<do read through our archive on wetwebmedia.com regarding quarantine protocol... if the problem is not water quality... I suspect a pathogen was brought in with a new fish, plant, algae, other coral, live rock, etc. Best regards, Anthony>

Torch coral shedding tentacles 6/13/03
Feeding my torch coral recently with a baster, I noticed some tentacle tips drifting free. I gave it a good blasting to free all the dead tips, there were a lot of them. The 'dead' tissue is the ball-shaped tentacle tip with about 1/4 inch of tentacle tissue.
It appears to replace the shed tips, since its overall appearance
hasn't changed, it still looks good. I can't detect any tentacles with missing tips. Q: Is this normal?
<hard to say from your description... tentacles can be shed as a natural reproductive or defensive strategy, or (more often) as a sign of poor health/infection>
This specimen is sitting about 6 inches below PC lamps (8000K and
actinic), these lamps are about 10 months old. I feed it Tropical
Crisps or other flake foods ground into powder, and sometimes Kent
Microvert.
<do send a picture if possible. Close up to see if there is any necrosis in evidence. Else we can only speculate from the general description I fear. Best regards, Anthony>

Euphyllia parancora question 6/11/03
hello there,
<howdy!>
I have a 120g tank with mixed soft corals and a few hard corals.
Everything is fine except I have spotted that my beautiful and large Euphyllia parancora which is expanding very well and swelling enormously seems to have a part of the skeleton exposed.
<the swelling large could be a bad sign if water clarity or light intensity have degraded over time. Causes corals to pan for the waning light yet give the appearance of "good health">
Now all around the colony the flesh of the coral does not simply come out of the ridges but extends further down each coral head also I can see a demarcation where the flesh starts even when the coral is 'resting' - although it never retracts its tentacles.
One small section of this ribbon of flesh that extends for about one inch around all the coral heads appears missing and I can see the whiter skeleton. Extension is very good all over the colony but this thing bugs me. Could it be the start of something more sinister? In that case what precautions should I take? Tank you very much for your ever speedy responses. Massimo
<its difficult for us to say with little information on your tank/history/husbandry and no picture provided. Do consider the overextension issue raised above if your lights are over 10 months old, if the lamps or lenses are not cleaned of dust and salt creep weekly, and/or if water clarity (lack of weekly/monthly water changes and carbon). Do send a pic if yo can. Best regards, Anthony>

Frog spawn total polyp bail out 6/5/03
Bob, I have a frogspawn (grape I believe) that went through total polyp bail-out.
<yikes! quite stressed to do so>
I have recovered the polyp heads and am trying to get them to attach and re-calcify. They detached about a month ago.
<indeed slow about it>
The polyp heads are doing great, have good color and are extending nicely. I have the smaller of the two inside of an old open clam shell and covered with a piece of fruit net to keep it in place. The other is moving itself around the tank. Is there anything that I can do to speed up the re-attachment process? Thanks, John
<definitely... feeding small/tiny calcium rich foods... shell-on crustaceans usually do the trick (mysids and Pacifica plankton are good to start with). Feeding weekly or more often is key here. Best regards, Anthony>

RE: frog spawn total polyp bail out 6/5/03
Anthony, Thank you for your quick response. In addition to, I am using two part b-ionic. Will this slow the calcification process?
<should help if dosed properly>
My CA is running 480-500.
<yikes! Careful mate. Sounds like some SPS-keeper talked you into this precariously high level (dangerous for most aquarists). There is a clear and present danger of a chemical "snowstorm" if you try to raise alk high too. We have articles and FAQs here on WetWebMedia about the topic at length... do browse more starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm >
I am however switching this tank slowly over to seawater obtained
from our local supply at the Scripps institute of oceanography (San Diego).
<a bad decision in my opinion. Never use natural seawater... not even from Scripps <G>. Seriously... I have been to the institute... yes, driven down and seen the spigots from which to draw their filtered seawater. This after the president and other members of the San Diego Marine Aquarium Society wiped their tanks out for using it! Keep in mind... that they treat that grossly filtered water heavily after (!) the point at which you can draw grossly filtered seawater. The population along the California coast makes that water truly unsuitable IMO. Please do read more on out site (use Google. search too for a keyword search) and also chat with the SDMAS folks (great people/club) regarding>
I started this AFTER the polyp bail-out. I change between 1-2 gals. a day on a 55 Gal. Stress, quite possible. The frogspawn was located in the close vicinity of pulsing xenia.
<little aggression from the Xenia>
Could have also been that I use to add the top of water (DI)
to the HOB CPR skimmer located near the frogspawn.
<yikes if this is unaerated or unbuffered... even then the fresh influx is rough indeed>
Could a change in temporary SG stress it?
<indeed... quite unnatural for this subtidal species>
Next my tomato clowns were being very active this spring and would constantly brush the frogspawn and keep it from fully
expanding.
<adding insult to injury <G>>
Last but not least, my I have the address to your web site?
Thanks again, John
<yes, my friend... there is so much to learn here: www.wetwebmedia.com
Kind regards, Anthony>

Navigating WWM archives... and Coral Polyp bailout 6/10/03
Anthony, Thank you for all your help. I will make use of your archives on the site. I guess sometimes it's easier to ask someone of knowledge then to surf the FAQ's and try and make sense of them.
<no worries, mate. And do refine your search technique for speed. Play around with rather specific keywords using the google search tool for our site... and one of the best tricks to help you find what you are looking for on a given long FAQ page: copy and paste the page into a WORD document... then use the "find word" feature in WORD to ferret out the keyword that brought you to that page>
My bailed out frogspawn had a mishap yesterday. Got home and found it sucked up in the strainer of a power head. Not a pretty site.
<Yikes... for future reference... place polyps, soft frags, cuttings in a shallow cup (like a Kool-Aid plastic scoop) and cover the top with bridal veil or fruit netting until the polyp attaches>
I removed the strainer and removed what was left of the polyp (of coarse it was the largest with two heads). I was getting ready to toss it in the trash but instead decided to give it another try back in the tank.
<hmm... do be careful here... without the use of a proper quarantine/hospital tank, the stressed/injured polyp runs the risk of contracting a contagious infection that could spread to other healthy coral in the tank. I cannot emphasize the need for QT or new or stressed animals strongly enough>
The tiny blob started to expand last night before lights out and was looking pretty good considering. Are these things that bullet proof?
<coral reefs are dynamic environments... many hardy corals indeed>
Hope it will recover!
<please do take some pics for before and after... would love to see you share them with us and others later>
If it does I will contain it as I did the other one. I did see some small parts scattered in the tank. Do you think these will grow?
<possible but not as likely as with SPS splinters>
Thanks again, John
<kind regards, Anthony>

Torch half open, half closed.
Hi, quick question? Why does my torch corals tentacles
sometimes get very long? I now LPS corals are hungry
so I thought maybe its reaching for food or is my light
not strong enough? Sometimes one branch will be
retract its tentacles fully while another branch is
stretching them out to the fullest. I use power
compacts and keep it on the top half of the tank about
9 or 10 inches down. Its seems to be doing well. I've
had it for about a year now and haven't changed my
bulbs yet. <Thou shalt change thy bulbs every 8-12 months, the earlier the better. The super long tentacles are likely sweeper tentacles that they use to bother their neighbors. If some heads are deflated while others are inflated, keep an eye out for a nibbling Centropyge angel or other such fish. It could also just be doing a "water change". Also keep an eye out for the ever popular brown jelly infection that can wipe out a colony of Euphylliid in a matter of days. -Kevin>

Anchor coral hurtin' and hostin'... AKA "clowns in my coral"
Hi
<not yet... but thanks for asking>
I have a Anchor coral Euphyllia the problem is that at times the some of the coral looks shriveled and then seems fine the shriveled part is not always the same It does not extend as much as it did ,I have 2 common clowns who play in it are there responsible?
<that is certainly a primary problem... it is unnaturally abrasive and repetitive in the confines of an aquarium. In time, it will wear or tear the Euphylliid perhaps causing an infection and possibly leading to the coral's death. They need to be separated>
Water stats are  PH 8.2-8.3
Ammo 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Calcium 430-450
KH 12 is this to high
<its fine but on the high end... avoid creeping higher. Just like you calcium... be careful not to abuse supplements>
Phos 0
Thanks for your help Tim
<best regards, Anthony>

- Bubble Counter and Bubble Coral -
Hello again, <And hello to you, JasonC here...> reading your FAQs everyday and always finding a lot of useful info that's new to me.  Hopefully these Qs aren't new to you but hope you can answer them.  I have been using a Knop C calcium reactor for the last year along with a high dollar electronic regulator/bubble counter set up that came with it.  The needle valve that I turn to adjust the bubble rate in the bubble counter ALWAYS needs adjustment and is a pain.  I get it running at 4-5 CO2 bubbles per 15 seconds today and then have to either turn it up or down tomorrow depending on whether the CO2 bubbles are coming out too fast or too slow.  When I turn it I only turn it the very slightest distance one way or the other.  Barely even noticeable to me or my fingers and that is still too much or too little one way or the other.  Is there some type of electronic digital CO2 bubble counter set up gizmo that is available to the hobbyists that I don't know about that can be set at so many CO2 bubbles per minute and then don't have to worry about it? <I am not aware of one.> "Set if and forget it"?  <Not a good mind-set for marine tanks - best to check up on things. Set and forget will lead to problems.> Does anyone know of anything like this or is this available or am I just dreaming? <I'm sure something like that exists for the medical community, but I'd be willing to bet it won't be remotely cheap.>
Also, I sent in a picture of my bubble coral that had a baby bubble coral growing out of its side a few weeks ago. <The picture does not seem to have made the trip.> I found another growing within about an inch of the first one last night!!!  I could swear they are sprouting from the dead tissue that the receding flesh is leaving behind.  I think another is sprouting but will have to wait another week or two to confirm.  Is this what I am seeing?  Regeneration from the dieing flesh that is remaining? <Asexual reproduction is probably a better explanation.> Do you want me to send more pictures of the new sprouts to confirm? <No worries.> Please let me know about both topics above.  I would greatly appreciate it.  Thanks again, Jeff
<Cheers, J -- >

Growing Corals The Right Way
My wife and I recently purchased a piece of frog spawn from our local
fish store.  At the store all of their pieces open up great.  The one we bought was open fully also.  But ever since being in our tank it barely opens  and today seems to be pulled in even further.  The tanks at the local fish store have power compacts on their tank, and we have four 110 watt VHO bulbs. I was wondering if the frogspawns do not like the actinic lights or  do you
think it is a water issue.  My water seems to check out fine.  Ammonia = 0, nitrites= 0 , Nitrates may be around 10 on our American Pharmaceuticals test kit.  I have checked the PH and it is 8.3, I use Seachem's Marine Buffer in my RO water to maintain 8.3.  
<Well, there are a number of possibilities here. Euphyllia species are usually found in deeper water. where they are sheltered from powerful current, and receive indirect light. Actinic light is well-suited to these corals. You may want to relocate the colony so that it is partially shaded for a while. Remember, all corals go through some degree of "shock" from the transport and acclimation processes, and need to be acclimated to a new lighting scheme. Given a little time under diffused lighting, and some careful observation, this coral should begin to open up for you. Anthony wrote a great article that discusses this in more detail. Check this link:   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm   >
I also use Prime to dechlorinate water ( just to
be safe) but I had heard that you should not use a dechlorinator with RO water is this true?
<Well, it seems kind of unnecessary to me>
It is just a old habit I guess. I had a maze coral and
a plate coral that also died.  I measured the alk. on my Red Sea test kit and the ranges on it are low/ normal / high.  My reading has always seemed to read high.  Looking down the sample in the tube compared to the color reference chart it is blue.  Just today I did what one of your archives said to do  1 gallon fresh water 1 teaspoon baking soda and 2 drops of Malachite green (Greenex Brand)  After I put it back into the tank it appeared to have
some long stringy Mucusy looking strands coming out of it.  Is this normal?  
<Well, it seems like a typical reaction for a coral that has been through a potentially shock-inducing experience>
I have not seemed to have any luck keeping the hard corals.  I have a colt coral that is doing fine.  All of the hard corals have been toward the bottom of the tank (75 gallon) The only thing I have not monitored lately is the calcium.  I add about a capful of Kent calcium every other day.
<Well, you should get in the habit of monitoring for any parameters that you are adding stuff for, particularly calcium. You need to know what is going on in the tank so that you can take proper actions as they become necessary. Also, you should consider a more "natural" aggregation of corals. In other words, specialize a bit...Go for soft corals, LPS, or SPS corals. Mixing different types of corals is not a great idea. Sure it's done all of the time, but that doesn't make it right! Many soft corals give off various chemical compounds that are noxious to their neighbors. When you start mixing soft corals and SPS (which does not happen in natural settings, you are essentially exposing animals to chemical "warfare" that they are not evolved to face or resist. You can put together some amazing displays of just softies, or just LPS (a neglected segment of the reef hobby, IMO), etc. Much easier to manage in the long run, IMO!>
Fish in the tank are doing fine.  One more parameter is the salinity.  1.023-1.024.  That is with the plastic hydrometer ( I know they are not that good but cannot not afford a refractometer yet).
<The plastic hydrometers are just fine for our purposes!>
Water temp is 78 degrees.  Are the VHO not enough light for these corals?  (4 -110 watt 2 actinic-2 actinic white, Ice-cap 66o ballasts)
<Should be just fine if your tank is less than 30" deep. VHO is a very versatile and useful light source!>
I have also just upgraded to a Aqua -C EV 120 skimmer.
<A GREAT skimmer, IMO!>
This thing is awesome, I had been using the Classic Berlin with turbo upgrade.  I recommend to anyone the Aqua-C products.  In one week it has skimmed out more than the Berlin did in 2 months.
<You heard it here, folks! That's why we recommend Aqua C skimmers- they consistently do the job!>
I just got an Red Sea ozonizer and my wife does not want me to put it on. She feels it will be bad for the tank, I have read very good things about them on your site.  Can you outline some of the pluses  about ozone for her.
<Well, if used correctly, ozone has a number of benefits that make it useful in marine tanks. First, ozone can reduce the possibility of some diseases spreading throughout your tank, and ozone helps keep water very clear, which really lets your lighting do its job more effectively. Ozone has also been demonstrated to enhance the efficiency of protein skimmers, and helps maintain higher oxygen levels in the water>
The unit I bought has the built in controller and probe.  Where should I put the probe in the sump or in the tank or does it matter?
<I'd try to locate it in the tank>
My wife picked up a book on clearance yesterday "The complete Book Of the Marine Aquarium"  By Vincent B. Hargreaves.  And it says some pretty bad things about ozone and how it nullifies Iodide/iodine.  I am just trying to make the water quality as good
as I can.  Will it kill all the good things that the corals need to eat?  
<Well, if misapplied, ozone can be very destructive. However, if used properly (administered according to the aquarium's size and manufacturer's recommendations), and if excess ozone is passed through activated carbon, it is a safe, effective means of increasing water quality.>
Sorry so long intended to just ask one question and here we are.  I keep telling her to order your book.
<Bob's book is a real treasure! And, while you're at it, put Anthony's "Book of Coral Propagation" on your shopping list, too. If you're a serious fish geek like me, you'll refer to these books all the time! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Frogspawn Coral Budding 3/5/03
Hello, I hope all is well.  Firstly, I would just like to thank all of the crew for their help both directly to myself and through reading the FAQs.  
<and thanks to you for caring and helping yourself/our hobby>
I have just one question tonight, I noticed a small bud on the skeleton of a frogspawn I have had for several months.  
<wonderful>
It is about the diameter of a pencil eraser fully extended.  
<in time it will need to be removed or it will die in the shadow of an older "head" polyp. In the wild, these are started for if/when the big polyps get eaten/destroyed>
My question is  does the frogspawn translocate
nutrients within the colony from feedings,
<alas, no... each polyp must be fed>
and if so, will this suffice the new polyp given that it is fairly obstructed from the light?   
<as per above... needs fed and needs to be removed in time>
Thank you again for your never ending assistance to all.
Ed in NJ
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Hammer coral repair 3/3/03
hello Anthony, gang,
<cheers>
Quick question for the ones with the answers.  
<we make most of them up <G>>
I recently bought a Branching Hammer coral, upon placing it into the rockwork one of the branches broke off of the coral.  It did not hurt the coral cause it was far enough down,
<excellent... no worries at all then. Better for the polyps which will grow faster now for getting better light and water flow>
but I would like to glue or epoxy the 2 pieces back to form one large, beautiful coral that it was.  
<if you like>
Any detailed advice on how to go about this would be great.
<wave the polyps in (fully retracted) then lift the branches out of the water to protect the tissue from abrading against its own sharp septae. Pat/blot both broken edges dry with a towel... glue with thick super glue gel (any brand) and tie the branches together with a tight rubber band (will dissolve in weeks) or a plastic cable tie (you cut away the next day). The coral can stay out of water for a couple minutes if you like to finish this>
I just got your "Book of Coral Propagation" Anthony , its awesome and is very informative.  thanks all for everything.
<thank you kindly, my friend. Anthony>

Spots to left of me, bubbles to the right - 2/6/03
    Hi to all, <Huuulllllooooooo.> I'm wondering if the brown, translucent spots on my white bubble coral are of any concern. <Sounds like a Planaria infestation, but could maybe be the start of some sort of "Brown Jelly" issues maybe? Other than the spots, are you noticing any disintegrating tissue?> The tank is 6 months old, water parameters are great, temp 80, sal. 20, <Do you mean 1.020?> lighting is a 48"PC <what kind of light? Just curious> which are on 8-9 hrs daily,  water changes are 3-5% wkly <Mmmm.....maybe 5-10% weekly would be better> and the tank is 55glns. The coral is a little more than half way down, the brown spots started about two to three weeks ago and is covering approximately 75%. <A picture would be really helpful here, but if it seems that these are small irregular looking spots some darker than others, then try gently blowing bubble coral with a turkey baster. See if these "spots" come off or move.> Its fed twice a week with Mysis shrimp and a home blend food which includes garlic, serving size is less than 1/4" or smaller. <Could be fed more. Is it still eating currently?> There is a torch coral, <Be sure that the Torch is far from the Bubble as they have a tendency to use their feeding or err....."sweeper" tentacles to wage war on other corals, animals, and yourself <G> when not feeding with them>  purple mushroom, buttercup and a plate coral <Be sure this coral is not too close to anyone either. As a matter of fact be sure they are all pretty far apart if not already ;)> in the tank with it. <Do any other corals have any "spots"?> I do have two gold band maroon clowns in the tank which don't bother it at all, actually I don't see any of the fish bothering it. Any thoughts? < Hard to say. See above suggestions. I would check here also: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pestflatwrmanthony.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/flatworms.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corldisfaqs.htm
Hopefully something in there will help identify the issue. Let me know if I can be of more help. If you have the means, please send a pic. Paul >

Re: Can my bubble be saved???
Hello WWM Staff, I have been in touch with you recently, Anthony I believe, about my green Bubble Coral (Plerogyra sinuosa).  
<cheers>
If you recall, I have a clown that took up residence in it.
<Ughh! Yes>
As a result, over time, he separated the flesh from the stony base. You suggested separation or removal of the clown. I have isolated the coral specimen and at this time it's completely [detached from its skeleton].
<Ouch... that's gonna leave a mark>
The skeleton has been relegated to the sump for filter media. Anyway, will the "flesh" only specimen survive?
<Yikes... what has happened is unnatural and uncommon. A stress induced strategy to be sure. I can't say if it will survive. I would suggest keeping it in a shallow dish of sand and feeding it regularly with hope for attachment (doubtful)>
It still inflates albeit not as full and lush as before and if a fold develops it looks downright awful at the site of the fold. It has been without a base for about two weeks now. I have it in a perforated plastic Beta tank within my display tank.
<very fine as long as it can get water flow>
I have a small amount of sand from the tank in its isolation tank and it's resting on that.
<excellent!>
If it will, or has a chance to survive what do you recommend?
<yes... possibly>
Can I or should I attach it to a rock or piece of dead coral?
<give it several months. If not attached by then, consider stitching it.>
If so with what? If a section of it goes into decline any further can I "prune" it off and be left with anything that will live?
<yes... but it would be a bad sign at that point>
If I'm covering new ground here with this problem and solution any advice to increase my chances of success with be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help.
<best regards, Anthony>

Feeding Food that is too large to Corals and Anemones
Hi all, a quick question.  I have had Frogspawn Bubble Coral in my 125 for about 18 months or more.  It's has been doing great.  Last night I added a Xenia from a friend and I may have put it too close.  When the Xenia expanded it was very close and may have touched the frogspawn.  I moved it immediately, but the frogspawn contracted.  Over the next few hours, it almost turned inside out, and through it's two mouths, spit out food I had given it almost a week ago, I could still see the bits and recognized it as silversides, I cut up in small pieces and drop occasionally into the coral.  
<really more like small chunks, no?>
It also spewed out a large amount of mucus, I would guess the entire contents of it's gut.  
<correct... and very common when aquarists feed food that is too large to corals and anemones... I preach this so often but hobbyists truly underestimate it. Often, the coral or anemone expel the mucous ball of waster at night and slowly starve to death even though the aquarists thinks its getting fed. Sometimes, the large chunks injure the cnidarian and kill it in time. The "rule" is feed small amounts frequently (3-5 times weekly is fine) but always finely minced (nothing bigger than 1/8 or 1/4 bits>
It seems better today, but is not expanding to it's 10" plus size.  There appears to be no infection, or deterioration of the flesh.  
<good to hear>
The mouth is still rather large and partially open.  
<Doh.... not good to hear. Duress indeed>
Have you ever seen this before?  
<very common>
What are the chances of recovery?  
<very good>
Should I leave it alone or do you suggest intervention?  
<leave alone bud and after a couple weeks resume feeding more often with finer bits>
Thanks   Larry
<best regards, Anthony>

Bubble problems..
<cheers, Brett>
Hello Wet Web Staff,
>  I have a problem with a Plerogyra sinuosa. It was doing great for a period of a year or so. It has been a gracious host to a clown fish for all of that time.
<ouch... Scleractinia hosting clowns usually means trouble for the coral. Repetitive and unnatural abrasion of soft tissue against its own skeleton from the guest (clown). Wounds and tissue recession are inevitable in time>
From readings on your site I found that I haven't been feeding it
enough, but it was being fed periodically cut pieces of whole shrimp.
<yes... please do feed minced (smaller pieces) several times weekly for the coral doesn't consume itself (attrition) in time>
It also always gets floating brine shrimp that go uneaten by its finned tankmates.
<Hmmm... adult brine? Very hollow food (almost no nutrition here... animals starve to death on this.). Try Mysis shrimp instead. Many other possibilities too... Gammarus, Pacifica plankton... anything but brine shrimp!>
My problem is within the past week the bubbles are separating from the base.
<not good indeed>
The coral still balloons and otherwise looks normal. It's just that half of it is free from the stony base. What's your prognosis?  
<it can survive... will take a few months... the clown must be removed and food particles have to be 1/4 or smaller (tiny) to prevent internal damage>
I'm hoping maybe this is normal, however, I'm doubtful since I see no other queries stating this type of problem.
<correct, my friend... it is not a good sign at all.>
Tank chemistry parameters show no anomalies in any readings and
are all within ranges that are considered healthy. The tank has been running for years with no real changes in chemistry. Lighting is 4 96 watt pc. bulbs two actinic two bright, running 12 hours a day.  The specimen is located about 12" below the surface, midway up a live rock wall and has never been moved.
<all good as per above... must have been starvation or abrasion from the clownfish>
Thanks for your time. Brett
<best regards, Anthony>

Lighting Up The Galaxy!
Sorry, forgot to mention the galaxy/tooth coral and the pipe organ coral.   This is in reference to the 250 watt MH pendant and if these corals will be okay if placed out to the sides and nearer the bottom.  
Thanks again! Arthur
<Well, Arthur, these corals seem to come from areas that are rather brightly lit, yet turbid, so I think that your positioning idea is good. Good luck! Scott F>

- Torch coral decline -
Hi Bob, <Actually, JasonC today...>
Quick question. Have you ever heard of a healthy torch specimen dying from being fed a whole shrimp? <Not until today.> I have a been very successful with my reef tank for a decade or so and another decade prior to that with just fishes. I have advanced with the times. My system is a Berlin style with a sand bed, a full time dark refugium and a full time lighted refugium with various Caulerpa specimens contained therein. I also run a Knop calcium reactor.  My regular testing of the water shows no irregular readings. I keep all my water parameters within the normal and generally accepted ranges. The tank has basically been running itself for a long time (aside from regular water changes). Now to my point.
I have a maroon clown fish that has adopted both a green bubble coral and a torch coral as his. This relationship has been going on for over a year. Contained also in the tank is his long time buddy a large Snowflake moray eel. The eel is fed a thawed large unpeeled shrimp twice weekly for the most part. One feeding however, the clown picked up the shrimp (a 16-20 count size) and fed it to the torch coral, which it dutifully digested. Within a day or so of this occurrence, the coral has withdrawn and appears to be dying. This occurred a few weeks ago. To the best of my knowledge the shrimp had no preservatives in it and was fully thawed. All other livestock are fully healthy and thriving. No other changes have been made in the tank. The frozen shrimp has been an eel staple for a couple years now.
My feeling is that the coral is just dying and this incident was coincidental. <That would be my thought too. Quite often corals and clams can look in perfect health right up until the very last day, when in fact they've been starving to death... sometimes as long as a year.> One more piece of info, the main coral is the one that ate the shrimp, three other smaller heads on the piece are also dying. <My only other thought would be that the clown might have beat it to death. As nice as it is that the clown took up residence there, the problem is that the septa (walls that separate the polyps) in this coral are quite sharp and quite capable of damaging the polyps. The clown may have sped this along.> Any help would be appreciated. <Ahh well... keep the faith, the coral may just need some time to digest that chunk of shrimp.>
Brett
<Cheers, J -- >

Carnivorous coral on a vegetarian diet
Hello Crew, I have a 80 gallon reef tank (Fiji LR 100 Lbs) with various leathers and stony corals.  
<interesting mix>
I did some research on the pretty but dreaded Euphyllia Torch Coral.  Of course, after reading I figure I can handle the little bugger.  
<hardy, beautiful, fast-growing but aggressive>
So I bought him.  I stuck his "trunk" or base in 3 inches on live sand, with moderate to moderate plus current (constant).  My pc's seem a bit far away for light but was under the impression it wasn't that big of a concern as they are found in various depths?
<agreed... and more importantly, they feed so well and easily that many deficiencies in light can be compensated for with almost daily feeding here>
(4 WPG 50/50).  Anyway, I have a healthy brain coral that puffs up daily.  He was smack dab in the middle of the sand as you specified in an earlier post.  I moved him on another sand bed surrounded by LR.  He may barely touch it as he puffs but if he does only 10-15%.  He's about 8 inches from the torch, plus the rock barrier, current is still moderate for the brain.  Is this o.k.?
<all sounds very fine... will last more than a year if/until growth closes the gap>
One more thing, I have had conflicting information on what the torch eats.  
<hmmm... not much conflict here. The huge and aggressive polyps coupled with the history, behavior and locale of Euphylliids kames them decided and hardcore zooplankton feeders. The size and aggression of the tentacles is the giveaway. Power packs like that are not wasted on algae catching>
I feed Spirulina flake once a day, and Phytoplex 2-3 per week.
Occasionally I will throw in finely minced squid/oyster etc blended . Am I doing alright?
<only the last meaty food mentioned is providing any direct or significant sustenance. Perhaps the flake food somewhat if it has a meaty component>
By the way, the hermit crabs love this torch coral... (Blue and red tiny ones) what gives?
<Natural behavior for scarlet red hermits, not surprising for blue>
Thanks again (for the hundred and fiftieth time) Steve
<always welcome. Anthony>

Coral behavior
Hey guys, A few questions if I may: I have a hammer (Euphyllia ancora) which appears to be expelling (dead?) zooxanthellae periodically, in small amounts.  Each week or two, a small, one or two inch column of clear mucus will be expelled from a
mouth threaded with brown ribbons.  The coral has been in the tank for about three months and appears to be doing well, with a few small "daughter" colonies starting up on the same head.  It is fed well (four of five times a week with fine, meaty offerings) Is this normal behaviour?
<the coral isn't bleaching, is eating well and is even producing buds... it doesn't sound like expelled zooxanthellae to me... just metabolites/excrement>
I also have a Porites head filled with Xmas tree worms in quarantine and I have noticed that the polyps have recently (and only recently) begun to luminescence under blue light.  Can you explain this interesting development? Best for a "thriving" new year! MP  
<it is simply an adaptation to the new captive lighting and presence of UV or lack thereof causing a change in coral pigmentation. Enjoy. Anthony>

RE: Coral placement
I have another question for you if I may:
<Rock on my brother>
Hammer (below) has one polyp (of six) which has recently started to retract and extend daily. The rest stay extended day and night.  I can see no reason for irritation but my calcium level has recently risen to 520ppm (it is normally kept at 450ppm) due to a faulty top off switch (I add using top off water), could this be a trigger for such behavior?  
<not a trigger for the behavior, but an actual value of 520ppm is highly unlikely and at grave risk of causing a snowstorm (crystalline carbonate precipitation.. ALK crash!). Frankly, I doubt your test kit is reading accurately, but do confirm and dilute with water changes if true (slowly... nothing fast here please). And if true, what is your ALK? It must surely be on the lower end (below 10 dKH?)>
Is this otherwise normal?
<indeed... no worries on the faster hammer polyp cycles. It could simply be because of nearby flow, fish or critter activity- this specimen gets more detritus and plankton and digests more matter. Many actual possibilities here... none are bad. Best regards, Anthony>

Anchor Coral Problem
I've been having a problem with my anchor coral for the past couple of weeks.  Let me start from the beginning.  I bought the coral 5 months ago. About 2 weeks after I bought it, one of the polyps shriveled up and died in a 24-hour period.  I attributed this to the fact that I probably scratched it while I was feeding it.  
<hmmm... this reminds me to warn you to be careful not to feed large foods... never larger than 1/4" bits (minced). Even though this blind and sightless animals will sting and draw any large chunk of dead fish or shrimp in... it doesn't make it smart or safe. Many coral are harmed or killed by feeding large krill, shrimp or fish chunks>
About 2 weeks ago, for no apparent reason, another polyp shriveled up and died in the same way.  
<more symptoms needed here... any evidence of necrosis, change of color... waning over what period of time, etc?>
Yesterday, one more polyp started shriveling.  (This last polyp was connected to the previous  polyp by tissue, so I'm not sure if this polyp is dying because it was connected to the other.)  
<not likely over this period of time (no pathogen)... more likely suffering the same physical imposition (feeding, water quality or predator)>
My water parameters are all fine,
<fine relative to what... numbers please>
and I can find no exterior signs of infection or parasites.  The coral was doing fine for a long time after I bought it,
<months? still not long if starving (regurgitating large chunks after dark)>
so I'm not sure how it could have been infected.  
<almost certainly not infected/pathogenic over this period of time>
I have 2 polyps left on the coral that seem to be doing fine, but
then again the other polyps looked fine before they mysteriously died.  
<how fast/sudden? Perhaps there is a fish in the tank nibbling at night. Fish list please>
My other corals and fish are not showing any signs of stress.  I've seen postings about a Malachite Green dip, but I could not find the exact recipe.
<Good heavens no! No organic dyes or metals on invertebrates please. Very dangerous... and you don't even have an infection (no mention of necrotic tissue!)>
I'm not even sure if the dip is the appropriate action to take.  Can you  help? Thanks for all of your help -- past, present, and future!
<a picture please if possible. With kind regards, Anthony>

Anchor Coral problem 2
I guess in my pre-Christmas haste, I forgot a few important details. 1.  There were no real outward symptoms.  No necrosis or other signs of tissue degradation or color change.  One day they would appear open and happy, and the next day they would begin shriveling up.  They would start shriveling on one side and by the end of the day, they would be completely shriveled.  The tissue would be almost completely gone by the next morning (most likely eating by my many critters).  
<agreed... this is a severe water quality issue or predation. Perhaps a large inconspicuous flatworm nearby>
The last polyp that died was in the front, so I could see it much better than the other two.  In addition to the shriveling, the tissue looked as if it was tearing away from the skeleton.  I did not notice this on the others, but this may have been caused by the fact that this polyp was also in a slightly higher water flow
area.
<interesting... have you checked magnesium levels? Do you use/abuse liquid or turbo calcium (awful stuff... chloride accumulation)... or do you use buffers with borate heavy handedly (maintains ALK but weak for coral use)>>
2.  I have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and < 10 nitrates.  My calcium is at 410, my dKH is at 9.5, and my pH is at 8.3.
No complaints here>
3.  I have 1 Ocellaris clown, one Hippo Tang, and one Scott's Velvet Wrasse.
<no conspicuous risks here>
It's interesting that you brought up the predation.  I did find two brown Mithrax crabs.  
<Doh! If you don't have Atlantic live rock, they weren't Mithrax  crabs (Mithraculus)! And most all crabs including true Mithrax can be predatory... strong candidates here>
I was able to get them out of the tank last night.  They seemed too small to do any damage,
<heehee...>
but maybe that's what was killing my coral. Thanks again.
<very possible. Anthony>

Unhappy hammer- coral aggression
My hammer coral was looking good until I placed a purple torch next to it. They were about 2.5 inches apart, I increased the separation to ~4 inches.
<very good move but not enough. The "rule" is 6-10" minimum between all coral... more between aggressive species. These two coral mentioned are VERY aggressive (modified tentacles at night and chemical exudations shed>
The hammer's polyps are semi-retracted, sometimes completely retracted. Both corals are stetting on rocks on the bottom of a 29 gal tank. I've had the hammer for about two months, everything was fine, its been about four days since I got the torch.
What should I do?
<more space and good water flow. Aggressive skimming and weekly changes of carbon will help temper the aggression too. Best regards, Anthony>

Bubble Coral
Thank you for all the help received so far.
<You're welcome!>
I have a pearl bubble coral, Physogyra. This coral seems to be doing
ok, but I have heard conflicting reports of correct water movement and light.
<Low to moderate current. Please feed this critter>
I feed a frozen cube of seafood every week.
<I would feed more frequently>
This week doing a water change it was over his position and the water hit him. To make sure that he was ok I fed him some chopped prawn (with shell) and although expelling mucus through irritation, (as I only noticed after giving the food) he was eating a huge lump of prawn! Alternatively I wonder if the mucus is some kind of net like Vermetids use - I didn't see any withdrawn but floating pieces of prawn stuck to it and I only noticed after starting to feed that mucus was being shed. Or are these the sweeper tentacles?
<Sweeper tentacles, while small, are still pretty obvious. They look sort of like strings coming up from the coral>
The coral is just more than half way from the top of the water and the metal halide is around 16 inches above the water.
<Might be better off in the lower level of your tank. It doesn't need really strong light. In fact, it may not fully expand in the presence of really strong light.>
If it helps, the coral was green but has had sufficient light to turn brown.
<Well my friend, some corals change color depending on the lighting scheme. If corals get too much light they can change color to protect themselves. A brown change could easily be too much light. Although IME color change is not a regular occurrence with this type of coral. But...if the coral stays fully expanded and happy most of the time...>
I don't know the type of bulb is in the metal halide.
<I know that most halides are bright. A lot depends on how deep your tank is etc. If  were you I would want to know how many watts, color temperature at least>
He certainly expands all the time under the metal halide.
<Great! Happy holidays! David Dowless>

Dead Euphyllia ancora and ick
Dear Craig:
Hello! How do you do?
<Hi Mimie, I'm alright, a little jet-lagged after returning from Florida>
Well, some bad news, my hammer coral died yesterday. Don't know why, everything seemed perfectly in order waters params etc. It started dissolving after you told me to give it full-spectrum lighting. Not pointing the finger at you but I guess it started to die once I placed it in my tank. But for the life of me, I don't know why. Oh, and my fan worm died too. However, the other corals and fish are doing fine, except that the Sailfin tang has gotten an ick infection which I thought I completely eradicated months ago. I am very dis-spirited now.
<Uh-oh.  Sounds like something happened here. Any sudden temp or other changes that maybe happened unbeknownst to you that also set the ick off? This usually happens with a temp drop or maybe came in with the hammer, which may have been sick or infected already. These corals also are susceptible to brown slime bacterial infections and such.  Tube Fans are sometimes difficult to keep for extended periods due to their filter feeding requirements.>  
Anyway, I started feeding it garlic soaked Mysis shrimp. He's not really taking it, kinda nibbling on it. It seem really bad in the morning but disappears during the day. The fire shrimp too seem to be helping out by cleaning him. A strange observation.
<Try to find Tetra anti-parasite medicated food, this works well for those spot attacks before they get going.>
Well, that's the latest. I know that my water is top-notch...I do 20% changes weekly. Can't do any better than that.
I don't know...Best, Mimie
<Make sure your water changes are temp/pH/SG matched as this could cause some of your problems.  Sorry to hear of your difficulties, don't feel alone, we all have these things happen sometimes. My Best, Craig>

Euphyllia Ancora
Hi Craig !!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the advice on timers, you're like my piscatorial guardian angel!
<Hi Mimie!>
I recently purchase an Anchor coral for <cheap>(like the budgie!) and it is a beautiful addition to my tank. I love the metallic green that seem to stand out in the actinic light.
Prior to buying it, I did some research on your site and am a little quizzical on the aspects of water movement and lighting because of the conflicting notes on the articles and the FAQ section. I've got mine wedged between some LR about 4 inches from the surface, close to the powerhead. (I have a 2X55W PC unit but only turn on the 10000K actinic lamps. The other is a 7100K lamp. Photoperiod is 12 hrs.) Also offered some Mysis shrimp soaked in Zoecon but it did not consume it. Of course all filtration and powerheads were turned off.
<I purchased a bleached Hammer because it was a deal too:>) They like full spectrum lighting (50/50 actinic and white) so turn on all of your lights, perhaps over a few days, and try to match the lighting intensity from the store at first. It will likely be alright where it is, light wise. The Tentacles should gently wave in the current, nothing too vigorous. This family of corals have hard skeletons which can bruise or cut the soft tissue in too-strong current. It would likely not open or stay open. I don't target feed my hammer, which has grown considerably and recuperated nicely from it's former condition, but I feed my fish a large variety of natural foods which indirectly feeds the hammer.>
Also got a juv. Zebrasoma Velifera who just loved the shrimp but hasn't sampled the Gracilaria algae in my tank...although my Mexican Turbos seem to munching on it throughout the day. <Note: I will be moving the tang to a 135G FO system I am getting for Xmas *smile*> Please advise. Just me, MER
<Wow, my advice?  Have fun!  Enjoy your hammer coral, with the proper light, a moderate current and fed fish it should do just fine. Some people target feed their LPS corals, there is more on this at WetWeb, in Anthony's book, Bob's book or the new Invert book coming out soon.  Remember, LPS corals need adequate calcium and alk levels as well. Bye for now, Craig>

Bubble coral feeding question / Fungia question, too
I have a bubble coral that used to put out what I thought were feeding tentacles almost every night after the lights went out,
<and they were most likely... bubbles retract and tentacles/vesicles come out at night>
and I was feeding it small bits of cocktail shrimp 2-3x/week.  Recently, however, it just shrivels up to almost nothing every night.  
<increase in water flow will do it>
It seems fine during the day, maybe not inflating quite as much, but basically fine and sometimes accepts food in the daytime.
<they can feed anytime they sense food in the water. Do add a small bit if meaty juice 15 minutes prior to target feeding to get tentacles out>
No change in h2o quality: temp=80, SG=1025.5, Ca=460, alk=9.3, pH=8.4, no3=about 2, no2=0, po4=almost 0(need a new test kit I think).  
<all sounds fine... Ca is getting a little bit scary high... its fine now but don't push higher for ear of precipitating Alk>
Every week I add one tsp each of Kent's Tech-I, CoralVite, and Essential Elements/  oh, it's a 46 gallon,
Does this sound like a problem or a normal variation?  
<not normal... they feed heavily and daily for survival>
Should I keep feeding it during the day, if it doesn't put out the feeder tentacles at night?  
<no problem at all... please do if you prefer>
Now, I'm feeding it much less often, maybe once very 7-10 days.
<Yikes! Your bubble will last maybe 2 years this way before starving to death. several times weekly for maintenance. Daily feeding for growth>
Other corals all doing fine except a Fungia who never puts out any tentacles any more( for many months); I was sure it was dying, but it, too, still accepts tiny bits of shrimp if I put them right by it's mouth.
<Fungia is one of the hardiest corals... but also one of the hungriest. Under "perfect" lights it can still only get  less than 80% of its daily food/carbon from photosynthesis... the rest comes from food. This coral needs to be fed almost daily. If so, it will grow and reproduce wonderfully and live for many years>
I'd appreciate any ideas.  Thanks in advance!
<best regards, my friend. Anthony>

Bubble coral feeding question/Fungia question, too
Thanks, Anthony, but when you say "increased water flow will do it", do you mean cause it to shrivel up or to open up?  
<exactly... they are easily inhibited by direct/laminar water flow in excess>
In any case the water flow situation hasn't changed at all since I've had it, but its behavior has changed dramatically, so I'm still puzzled, but will resume more frequent feedings of the bubble and the Fungia.  
<very good>
The LFS where I bought the Fungia thought I could be overfeeding it, and therefore causing it to not "need" to extend its tentacles!  
<wow... that is ridiculous. Not likely or possible. Do feed small amounts daily for optimum care>
Sound like you're advising daily/almost daily feedings for both, yes?  thanks, again.
<exactly. Most corals do not need such feedings... but LPS as a rule do and these two are documented to need it in particular. Best regards, Anthony>

Saving a Hammer
My question is to whomever can help with this issue. My Hammer coral fell on my Galaxea today and it doesn't look good. Is there anything I can do to possibly save it? Thanks
<be sure the Hammer coral is returned to its exact former place, set securely (use underwater epoxy if necessary), maintain very good/strong random turbulent water flow, add small daily doses of iodine to the water (regular weekly dose just fractioned for daily application) and observe carefully for necrosis or infection in the tissue. Extra water changes may be necessary to reduce mucus shed from stress. Best regards, Anthony>

Trapped gas in Euphyllia?
Hi guys, I have a question about my Euphyllia.  It was sold to me as a branching hammer coral and it's been absolutely gorgeous up until now.  I did a water change on Tuesday and now on one of the branches in the middle of the of the branch near the mouth there are like two bubble looking things, they look like air pockets.
<arghhh... not good>
The only thing I can think of that might be a possible cause is the water temp.  The water may have been a little colder than the water in the tank.  I can't get a clear photo of it because of the angle, but it just looks like two little air pockets on either side of the mouth.  Any ideas? Thanks, Arthur
<you are correct... the sudden mixing of cold and warm/hot waters can cause this condition (like an embolism). It is also caused by microbubbles that supersaturate the water as when aspirated through a pinhole leak in the return pump plumbing. It is also caused by excessive illumination (recent upgrade of lights or changing of an old lamp). And lastly, air is sometimes ingested deliberately by some SPS with or without food (perhaps for the proteins attracted to the surface of each air bubble). The last event is the least common and seems to occur most often captivity (not on a reef so much). All other explanations here are unfavorable but not fatal. We simply must give it some time to see if it will pass (week+) or lance it if necessary (interferes with normal polyp cycles). Best regards, Anthony>

Pearl bubble
Hello to you all,
<Hellooooooo Helene!>
I have read all over the WWM site and still can't seem to figure out what to do for my Pearl Bubble.
<flowers, soft music and candlelight always make me feel better. That and a fifth of brandy. Do consider... for the coral, that is... not for me. I can take care of myself>
All seems well in the kingdom for the all other life but the pearl just keeps on shrinking...
<do you play Mariah Carey a lot?>
I have been trying to tempt him to eat with a little direct feeding of zooplankton and phytoplankton mixture.  
<good with the zoo... but don't waste your time on the phyto with this species. Form follows function, and this coral has huge feeding tentacles designed to catch large zooplankton. No plant matter here>
Even tried a little of my home recipe clam, shrimp, fish etc frozen stuff. All to no avail...he is in the middle of the 75 gal, decent water activity and not too near to anybody else.  
<all good>
Water quality is good although we did have a nitrate spike a while ago when we lost a few little fishes and couldn't find them....
<no biggie>
these were new fishes and had been quarantined but alas who knows....
<understood my friend>
Any ideas?  
<yep... I think we should send Weird Al Yankovic to Iraq to counter the threat of chemical weapons by the tyrannical regime in power (the oil companies that is)>
Or once again not enough info....
<regarding the bubble, it sounds as if you have done all you can. You may need to pull the coral to a bare bottomed QT tank to determine if the irritant is in the tank itself. 4 weeks as usual in QT>
I will continue to try to feed him.  Hard to catch him when his feeders are out....
<good, but don't wait...put a tablespoon of meaty juice in the tank 15 minutes prior to feeding and the tentacles should come out>
I think that he may be getting too weak to extend them.  
<I assure you that is not so>
The addition of zooplankton is new.....think that might help?
<Oh ya! it is the only food this coral eats. If you have been using phyto only up to know, your coral has been starving. Bubbles are meat eaters>
Anyway, thank you for all your help......Helene
<best regards, my friend. Anthony>