bubble coral with blue legged hermit crab in its mouth 10/13/09
Hello....yep..I see the legs hanging out of the mouth. It has been like this all day and don't know whether I should try to remove it with tweezers or something. Advise please?
Thanks in advance.
Donna
<Oh! My sis's name... sitting right next to me currently. I'd leave this meal where it is. Bob Fenner>

bubble coral quandary... Allelopathy; the low Euphylliid out    9/9/09
Hey guys haven't had to write in a while but ill give you the specs first.
75 gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump with refugium feather and grape Caulerpa. Phosban reactor, uv sterilizer 2 protein skimmers ( a Jebo and a CPR) Two 250 watt halides four 65 watt actinics, 14k bulbs. 3 inch sand bed and about 125 lbs of live rock. livestock is: clove polyps, wellsi brain, frogspawn, torch, star polyp, various mushrooms, a huge toadstool leather, cabbage leather, finger leather, a bunch of xenia, and a Fungia plate coral. All corals are doing great, however every time i try to put a bubble coral in it dies within 3 weeks.
<Umm, yes... very likely to keep on doing so if added to the mix you have.
Allelopathy... there are a few "things" you might do to improve the chances...>
All levels are fine I've tried less water flow, I've tried more water flow, less light I've tried more light, placement never works. I've been through two now and i don't want to kill another one. What could be causing this and why. Oh, fish wise i have a blue jaw trigger, a Sailfin tang, a flame angel, a true percula clown, lawnmower blenny, purple Dottyback, and a juvenile powder blue tang ( i know needs a bigger system). any ideas would be great. Thanks, Devin
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Can clowns harm coral? Clown and Coral Compatibility Need more information 8/30/2009
Gentlemen,
<Hi Gene, there are a few ladies on the Crew as well.>
I have a pair of clown fish that have hosted in two different corals (hammer coral and Aussie torch coral) - both have died. My other corals (soft) still seem healthy. The tank is a 125g with LR and is about 18 months old.
<Hmm... how much light?>
I'm not sure if there's a fungus in the tank or if these guys are simply irritating the corals too much.
<It is a distinct probability.>
I'm really grasping for answers.
I change about 25g of water every other week using Reef Crystals mix. My pH is steady between 8.3 and 8.4 (I'm using a very slow drip spaced out at night every 2 hours). My Ca usually runs around 400. Other param.s appear in line with a slight elevation in phosphate (.5).
<Again, how much and what kind of light?>
Thanks for your input and any advice you can offer.
<Assuming you have adequate light for the corals, I would say yes, it is likely that the clowns irritated the corals to death. Gave a read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfshanmfaq5.htm >
-gene
<MikeV>

Sick clown! Can't ID problem! – 6/17/09 I looked around Google, and your site and many diseases look the same. Seems that most sicknesses show in some form of white growth on a fish, making it difficult to diagnose. <Mmm, yes> So, here's my problem. A few days ago I introduced a pair of misbar black ocellaris clowns, they were in great health and came from a local reefer that I know takes great care of his animals and has been in the hobby for years. <So?...> These are my first marine fish, and my tank has been running for about 5 months with soft corals, LPS and inverts. I have a great pod population, tons of brittle starts, snails that breed, coralline, all my corals are reproducing, etc - all signs of a perfectly healthy and thriving tank. After 2 days in the tank, all was well, then I did a water change. This morning as I'm leaving for work I find that one of them (the smaller one) has one side completely covered in a white fuzzy coat. It's not located anywhere specific like gills, eyes, etc, it's over the entire body on one side. The poor guy seems to have problems move his pectoral fin on that side as well. The other fish is perfectly healthy. I've seen something similar in my Mbuna tank, once when it was cycling (didn't do a fishless cycle) and again later on when I think the fish was stressed from transport. Side note - don't transport fish in a backpack on a motorcycle, seemed like a good idea at the time - "Hey, lets take a ride to that great Cichlid place and pick up some zebras on this beautiful day!". Just like in the FW tank, this is only effecting the one fish. So my experience with this in FW is that the fish is doomed, will be dead in a day or two. I had no time to do anything because I was running late for work, so on my lunch break I will be heading home to start mixing a fresh batch of water to place him in with a handful of live rock (for filtering) and a spare pump to try and observe/treat him. My best guess is that before I had these guys I was only spot feeding my LPS (this is a 24g nano reef btw) and now with these guys there's a daily feeding of about one full cube of mysis/krill/whatever (same amount I used to feed the corals) that maybe I pushed the tank into a cycle by overfeeding the tank, and this stressed the fish. I'm going to be doing some parameter testing when I go home to check, can't figure any other stress that's been introduced to these guys, and they've seemed happy and active for the last few days. <Mmmm... a few possibilities> I also used Aiptasia-X last night (before my water change) now that I think of it and I've heard of that causing problems in fish before, even though Red Sea I don't think has ever said so. <I have read quite a bit re this product. I consider that it's involvement  here is negligible> Only other thing that MIGHT have caused stress is that the tank dropped 4 degrees overnight from 78 to 74 - this is a whole other issue since my heater was set to 76 and the tank was stable at 74, even though the heater was hot (but the little red light wasn't on). But I don't think a 4 degree drop over night is that severe and/or worse than what would be seen in a natural reef....? <Worse> Any help would be appreciated. I'll hopefully have this fish quarantined by tonight and ready to be treated. Time to start making up spare water I suppose. I'll try to follow up with a picture if I can get one. Matt <The larger possibilities are a "sting" from a Cnidarian/LPS, and a heater burn... Please send well-resolved pix. Bob Fenner> Re: Sick clown! Can't ID problem! – 6/17/09 Bob, thanks for the response. I have a decent picture and an update with new symptoms and status. I will attach a pic to this email so you can get it at full resolution I apologize if it's a bit large and clutters what I'm sure is an already packed inbox. <No worries> I did some tests and got no ammonia, no nitrites, and 0-5 nitrates, so I think we can eliminate the possibility of mini-cycle induced stress. <The photo is definitive... am quite sure this animal was stung... and quite likely the culprit is in the same pic... the Euphyllia in the background...> When I got a better look at the fish earlier this afternoon, I noticed it had white feces hanging out of it. It wasn't as a string, it was more like a small ball, with a tiny thread attached to another ball that seemed to be going nowhere, as well as a white ball floating around in the water column that looked identical. I noticed the same thing late last night, so I started guessing that somehow it got a block in it's intestinal track, causing the swelling and leading to whatever is being shown outward. As of this evening, that feces is gone, and it's swimming around as if nothing is wrong. <This fish may well heal of its own... even make friends with the coral> It's left side (same side shown in pic) is still swollen, but I want to say not nearly as bad. And that white stuff looks like it's falling off now, for example the pic was taken at noon today, now at 6:40pm the white stuff is gone from the pectoral fin. The best I can describe it's appearance is like dead skin. <This is so> Yesterday was the first day I fed something other than mysis. I fed NLS marine pellets and a cube out of a "Saltwater Multi-Pack" by San Francisco Bay Brand pack that was a mix of brine, krill, mysis, algaes, vitamin supplements, etc. I also adjusted my heater to be sure it would stablize the water at a higher temp, so now the water is sitting stable at 78.5. <Good> The two clowns are now hanging out with each other and being very active, but this one still favors the one side when using the pectoral fins. My current plan is a quarantine and treatment for parasites, ich, and fungus using Ich Attack and Jungle Labs Parasite Clear tablets. <Nah> Would you think I could be better off just leaving the fish be in the display since she's acting normal? <Yeah> The only other fish is the other clown, and it shows no signs of anything. I do understand it could have something lurking and just have no signs *yet *but my gut tells me that it is fine and in such a small system would have caught whatever this is already. <Nothing lurking... not parasitic... a chemical/physical sting> I'm going to forgo feeding for today just in case something I fed led to this and to allow time for further digestion if a blockage was the problem. I'll keep a close eye on things tonight though. Thanks again, Matt <Welcome. BobF>

Family Feud... Caryophylliid incomp.  3/16/2009
Hello!? Sorry about all the question marks, for some peculiar reason my e-mail system tends to place them randomly.? Anyway, I have a JBJ 24 gallon nano.? It has 32.5# live rock (Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga) and 40# of pink Fiji sand.? The system is a little over a month old and only has a pearly jaw. I do about 10% weekly water changes with premixed R/O saltwater.? I do keep a Polyfilter in chamber 1.? I had the lid recently upgraded with a 3rd 36w watt bulb, bringing the total wattage to 108w.? SG 1.0255, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10 ppm, pH 8.2?
There is a Koralia 1 power head in the display and a maxi 1200 for the return pump.
My calcium was 500+ my last test...
<... too high...>
I was dosing 3.75 ml of 2 part b-ionic the last 4 days (recommended for a 15 gallon volume).? I immediately performed a water change and will resume 2.5 ml (recommendation for a 10 gallon volume) in a few days and retest.?
<I wouldn't add any>
I knew something was odd when brown algae and brown hair algae started sprouting here and there.
I did have a temperature variance problem but that was resolved by a cheap $7 fan blowing on my lid.? I was skeptical of the advice but it worked!?
Temperature only goes from 79 to 81 now versus the 79 to 84ish!?
<Ah, good>
I'm still shocked at how well that worked out, thanks for the advice!?
<Welcome>
I usually read the Coralife digital thermometer, but I have the glass one in the tank as well just to make sure it's in check as suggested.
My real question is to clarify something.? I was thinking mostly stocking one particular family of coral in my tank, Caryophylliidae.? Frogspawn, torch, hammer, elegance, and bubble coral.?
<Mmm, not really a good idea... That Scleractinians/stony corals all are placed in a/the same family doesn't imply that they are compatible>
I'd like to do this to limit corral aggression.? However, when reading through FAQ's I see that although they are in the same family, these corals still can fight with each other and cause adverse reactions if within close proximity??
<Ah yes>
Correct me because I'm probably wrong, but I thought since they were in the same family, their aggression between each other would be futile???
<Mmm, no... are fighters amongst each other>
I guess even families have feuds within themselves???
<Well put>
Thank you for your time and helping me stabilize my tank! :)
Danny
Tampa, FL
<BobF, San Diego, CA>

Re: Family Feud, Euphylliid comp.    3/21/08
I hope I'm not being redundant, but is it alright then to have a branching hammer next to a different colony of wall hammer??
<Mmm, no... not really... there are very large stands of genetically related populations that live contiguously... but unless you can ascertain...>
My LFS said I could actually have hammers or any same species of corals for that matter, grow and intertwine together.?
<And close kin>
I was a bit hesitant to take their word for it, but it kind of makes sense...? Thank you much again!
Danny
Tampa, FL
<BobF>

LPS placement in 24 gallon nano with 108 watts power compact    3/23/09
lighting
Hello! (sorry about all the question marks, cannot figure out why my e-mail system does that!)
<So... send to yourself, fix, then re-send>
So I'm sticking to my coral stocking plan and getting mostly LPS (Caryophylliidae family).?
<Your system is too small...>
I know I need at least 6" of space between them to avoid them reaching each other with sweeper tentacles.? I've decided against the Elegance coral as I've read they are best kept in species specific tanks.? My LFS is holding a metallic Euphyllia Ancora, a green with purple tip Euphyllia Paradivisa, a yellow Euphyllia Glabrescens (from Australia supposedly), and a small green with pink tip Euphyllia Parancora for me.? I have a couple inches of pink Fiji sand so the light fixture itself is approximately 14" from the very
bottom.? Lighting is 108 watts of power compact lighting (1 actinic, 2 50/50 bulbs).? I know these are aggressive corals and should not be near any other coral.? I listed their colors because I know that sometimes has a bearing on placement.?
Considering my particular tank depth and lighting scheme, would it be OK to place these corals on the bottom, an inch or so (on live rock) away from the substrate??
<Could, but again... this shape/area of bottom is too small for long term success with this family>
Flow there is low to moderate.? I do have a single Dendrophyllia polyp on top of an arch in the light that eats daily (loves mini mysis by New Life foods).? I turn off the pumps and feed very carefully, to minimize food getting lost in the water column.? I'm prepared to do the same for my LPS.?
Of course, I don't don't want any of them to lose their beautiful coloring or suffer because of my poor judgment.? I've read recommendations to place them low in the tank, but it gave no indication of what kind of lighting that recommendation was for!?
<Please see Asira.com, CoralIdea.com... perhaps some of the coral books we suggest>
At the store they are at, they are on the bottom, guessing about 30" from the top of the tank; their MH and T5 actinics are suspended about a foot and a half above the top of the tank.
Stats as follows:
24 gallon JBJ DX
32.5# Live Rock
40# pink Fiji sand
108 watts compact fluorescent lighting (1 actinic, 2 50/50)
Temperature 78-81
SG 1.0255
ammonia
0
nitrite 0
nitrate 10 ppm
pH 8.2
Calcium 480 ppm
There is a Koralia 1 power head in the display and a maxi 1200 for the return pump for flow.
Small piece of poly filter in chamber 1.
Chaetomorpha and live rock rubble in chamber 2.
100w heater in chamber 3.
10% water change weekly (switching to 20% bi-weekly a OK?)
Dose 2 part b-ionic once a day for a 10 gallon volume.
livestock:
1 pearly jaw (loves Cyclops and the pods in the tank, nothing else...)
1 small serpent banded starfish
1 cleaner shrimp
2 orange Astreas
2 star Astreas
4 Nassarius snails
1 blue knuckled hermit crab
2 blue legged hermit crab.?
Thank you again for your time! :)
Danny N.
Tampa, FL
<I feel "bad" in encouraging, or perhaps better put, not discouraging, you going ahead here... You could do fine for months with starting with small specimens (thumb-size let's say), having them grow up together, being careful re filtrant use, maintenance-wise... but one day you will likely find real troubles with this stocking plan... Is there some way you can fit in a much larger system Danny? Bob Fenner>

Compatibility don't want any troubles... Euphylliids   3/14/09
Hey guys.
My names Ben from Sydney in Australia. I have a 120 gal reef tank. Which is approx 17 months olds. I have 8 x54 watt T5 lights above my tank and two actinic T8s. large octopus skimmer in my sump \ refugium and a deep sand bed.
Recently I lost my 2 clams and my Acropora due to a very very hot summer here. Tank got up to 34! Very hot. I was shattered. Fish all survived though and seemed to relish the heat.
I rectified the situation and bought my self a chiller. Now have tank
running at a perfect 26.
I decided to start restocking corals.
Recently I added two catyphllias to my system both placed on sand bottom.
<Mmm, Elegance corals sometimes don't get along>
I am very happy with them and the polyp extension is to be seen to be believed. (will send some pics soon).
I think I'm very lucky as most guys in Sydney I know talk of Sydney's catyphyllias as being bullet proof. I guess we are lucky and get our corals from aussie waters only. Also I've herd online that Americans seek our catyphyllias as they are much hardier.
<They are indeed>
Anyway my question is this. Should I? Or can I keep other Euphyllia species such as hammer corals in the same tank? Well away from my cats. Or am I asking for trouble?
<Too likely the last... unless these other Euphylliids can be placed far up
on rock, away from the Catalaphyllias>
I don't mind other wise I will just be species specific and keeps cats on my sand bed and nothing else.
Also I would like to keep some sps up top on my live rock well away from the cats under my t5s.
<This you should be able to do>
Do u reckon the sps would be affected? I run carbon 24\7.
<I think you'll be okay>
Just to add to it I have a pair of maroon clowns. 1 Zebrasoma flavescens 1 Paracanthus hepatatus 1 Acanthurus japonicus 1 horn blenny.
Fish are thriving and eat like pigs. Also no aggression which I'm very happy about. I just want my corals not to kill each other also. Im not going to stock anything more fish as there full.
Just focusing on the coral for now. I don't want my tank to be packed with corals just a nice mix. The two cats are awesome and I'm devoted to them.
I thought that a few LPSs like my cats and maybe a hammer and a frogspawn.
With some sps up top would be really nice. But I don't wanna push it.
I drip Kalk also and coralline is really taking off. other then the Kalk drip for top off I just do small weekly 10 gal water changes and that's it.
Nice and simple. The Kalk I use is builders lime (CHEAP) and its 99.2 % pure calcium hydroxide. Very happy with it. No ill affects what so ever.
Thanks for your thoughts it really is appreciated.
Thanks. Ben.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Gold Rim Tang/Behavior... actually incomp. with Euphyllia  1/18/09
Hello, hope you can help. Recently bought a Hammer Coral, it was stunning.
I then introduced a Gold Rim Tang and he has ate most of it. Will it eat the rest of my soft corals? I am panicking, any advice would be appreciated.
<I have never witnessed a tang eating coral. I have seen tangs picking into the coral if algae or other food source is present, which will cause the coral to react and retract. I'm thinking this is what you are seeing. Secondly, when writing to us, please follow the guidelines listed here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
Since we are all volunteers with very limited time, it is appreciated if all proper nouns, and "I's" are capitalized along with use of proper punctuation. We just do not have the time to edit these, and in doing so, takes our time away to answer queries from others.
Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>

Health of frogspawn coral, allelopathy w/ Zoanthid Hi, crew <Abdul> I am just worried about what is happening to my frogspawn coral. It seems like passing away. <I see this in your pix> It's in my aquarium from last four months and was very fine/full every day. Suddenly from last three weeks it is not opening fully and some times looks like if it is melting. I am attaching two pics for your reference. One is old and one is latest. Kindly advice since all water parameters are same as day first when it was introduced. Regards, Abdul Hadi Dar <I notice that there is a large Zoanthid colony immediately above this Euphyllia... w/o any other data, I am concerned that this is a case of allelopathy twixt these. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/zoanthidcompfaqs.htm and: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files above... You need to at least separate these two... likely remove one to another system. Bob Fenner>

LPS budding 8/18/08
Hello Crew
<Howdy>
I trawled through the encyclopaedic info on your site, but find nothing specific to this query below.
My grape coral
<Plerogyra... a Euphylliid>
appears to be putting out fluorescent buds. This happens every 3 months or so, and most often the buds just float off to be picked up in the filtration or swept into the live rock etc.
<Mmm, yes>
Occasionally what happens is the buds land up in the 2 large hairy mushrooms in the vicinity (about 4" inches away) and this appears to cause them a fair degree of stress.
<Oh yes>
They contract to about an 8th of full extension, and appear to remain so until the bud is expelled. While this is happening the parent LPS also appears to be in a slightly shrunken state for some reason.
<In a word: Allelopathy>
I also noticed my maroon clown, usually happy in his Entacmaea quad. go up to the LPS and give it a buffet, dislodging a couple more of these offending buds. I should note that the LPS is also reproducing via a couple of new colonies at the base of the branches....could not understand the clown's contribution there, though!!
<Me neither. Interesting>
Any insights would be hugely appreciated.
Best regards
Mani
<I do think you're witnessing a sort of asexual reproduction... I would try to remove such buds ASAPractical once they're about to be released. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Clownfish Open Mouth  8/26/08 Hello, <Adam> After reading through the many clownfish disease Q&As, I am still at a loss to the cause and the solution to the problem I am facing. <Ok> I currently have a 30 gallon long SW reef. Lit by 4 39w T5HO bulbs, skimmed with a Tunze nano doc 9002, modded ac110 fuge with Chaeto, water flow from a Vortech mp20, Tunze Osmolator for top off, use only RO/DI 0ppm water, and I am also running some Chemi-pure elite and Purigen. My ammonia is 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ph 8.2, calcium 400, specific gravity 1.025, Alk 8, phosphate 0, and temp is 78 degrees. In terms of livestock, I have a coral beauty, two true Percs, an emerald crab, a pom pom crab, a porcelain crab, hermits, Cerith, Nassarius, 1 troches, 1 Mexican turbo, a tuxedo urchin. I had had the clowns for approximately two weeks before I noticed the problem. The first week they did not have a host and slept / played in the corner of my tank. The second week they found my frogspawn and have been hosted by it ever since. 3 days ago now I noticed that one of my Percs could no longer close his mouth (the other was and still perfectly is fine). I do not think it is genetic because the onset was quick, and he was not like this before hand. The first day he did not eat, yesterday he figured out how to eat with his mouth open. I also feed frozen mysis (which the clowns do not like), Cyclopeeze (which the clowns do like), reef Roids (for my Alveopora) and have Selcon for supplementation. I see no isopods in the mouth of the clown, and have attached a photo so you can have a look as well. <I see and agree re this not being genetically derived> All other evidence I can find of this phenomenon through Google and through WWM either have the clownfish recovering in a couple days or eventually not eating and dying, and no one knows what causes this. Obviously I would really prefer if I could find the cause and prevent my fish from dying. Thank you Adam <Is likely from the "meet and greet" process with the Euphylliid... Will likely cure itself in time. Bob Fenner> Re: Clownfish Open Mouth  8/26/08 Today, day 4, it looks like he is getting movement back in his mouth! I think you are correct that it was from the frogspawn and hopefully he will fully recover. Thank you Adam <Thank you for this update. Excelsior! BobF> Too close to call? Scler. incomp., Plerogyra  ?#8364;“ 07/10/08 Hello all.. I have a Lobophyllia spp. (white with pink rim) that is showing signs of bleaching and a few dark spots forming on the white inner section.. I've scoured the WWM looking at suggestions on the bleaching and all signs point to feeding and h20 quality. <Mmm, typical...> i am on top of these tanks to the wwm and have been on top these. <...?> One other thought, is i have the piece about 6-8 inches away from a green bubble coral, Plerogyra Simplex.. <Ahh!> which is about 8" in diameter. Is it possible the lobo is too close? <Yes> what is a safe distance to keep things away from the bubble coral? <A foot or more. Read re the Compatibility of Euphylliids on WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/carycompfaqs.htm and/or the search tool. Bob Fenner> Peter Baron Re: too close to call? Scler. incomp., Plerogyra ?#8364;“ 07/10/08 Thanks BF! (Remember the kids cartoon The Blue Falcon.. with Dyno Mutt..?) Dyno Mutt would always get saved by the Blue Falcon and say "Thanks BF" <Dang! Missed this series> I had hoped this was the answer and moved the lobo yesterday .. and did more reading and looking through the mental note book.. and remembered i was reading on powerheads and circulation.. and serviced my 2 heads and aligned them with the proper x pattern.. (back corners aimed in a meet in the middle) and changed the flow.. the meeting of the currents would up being right on top of the lobo.. and in a heavy stream.. <Best to adjust here> it was soon after (coincidence ?) that the lobo started to bleach.. stress? and compounded with the Plerogyra Simplex growing like crazy. perhaps added the dark spots. <Maybe> When i got home for work last night. went straight to the tank and noticed about 1/2 the color came back already.. and this morning the rims were is proper swelled size with feeding tentacles extended.. so gave it some breakfast. Thanks for all the help BF! <Up, up, and away! The other BF>

Hammer coral budding, and more beh.  ?#8364;“ 06/02/08
Greetings,
<Salutations>
I have a hammer coral, and there are several buds on the exposed skeleton. One bud is currently poking out of the parent tissue. I read that I would have to remove them from the parent to save them.
<Mmm, no... or not necessarily. If desirous of "speeding up" the process, you can attempt removal, but otherwise will/do drop off in time of their own accord>
What's the easiest way to do this with minimal risk to the parent colony?
<A sharp metal tool like a chisel...>
Wouldn't removing the buds make the original colony look ugly with holes everywhere?
<Beauty is in the eye, mind...>
? The buds are very tiny, about 3/16" of an inch in diameter.? Will this little thing really grow with just adequate light and water flow?
<If conditions, their development is sufficient...>
Also, while feeding my fish, I noticed a fully expanded hammer coral tentacle floating about in the water.? I siphoned it out and put it in my 10 gallon tank on a rock to see if it will settle. Is this a bad sign?
<Is not a good sign or behavior... can/does sting other sea life... including sessile invertebrates, fishes... best to remove>
Another thing is that my hammer doesn't seem to be interested in food. I placed some mysis on its tentacles, but the coral didn't react. It just let the mysis float away. Do I need to put food directly on its mouth, or should I not worry about feeding it?
<I would feed it... read on WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/starfdgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
 

Bubble coral troubles... just growth, normal behavior ?#8364;“ 07/01/07
Hi Crew,
<Wendy>
I have a few questions regarding our bubble coral. We have a 60 gal. tank that we added a small (approximately 3 inch diameter) bubble coral to 4 months ago. Since then, it has grown to be about 12 inches in diameter!
<Wow!>
It is beautiful, and has lots of sweeper tentacles out most of the time.
<Mmmm... do you wonder why? What their function is?>
My concern is that it has now "stretched" almost down to the floor of the aquarium on one side. The bubbles are still present and look fine, but it's mouth area is clearly visible as the tissues are pulled down around it. Is this normal? I wondered if it would fragment itself off and start a new coral?
<Is normal... is "protecting", extending its territory>
My other question also involves the same bubble coral. It's stinging tentacle is about 6 inches long, and is causing us to move other corals even further away than we had originally.
<Ah yes>
(We had everything about 6 inches away from it.) This coral has become a beast and is quickly taking over our tank!! Is it possible to clip off the stinging tentacle without harming the coral?
<Mmm, no. Not advised>
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Wendy
<... A larger system in your future? Bob Fenner>

Can a bubble coral and maroon clownfish co-exist?   - 12/12/06
Hello everyone and Merry Christmas,
<Hey Carole and Harold! Happy Holidays to you and yours as well! JustinN with you today.>
I have a 100 gallon reef tank.  In it I had 1-yellow tang, 1-blenny, 2-cardinals and numerous corals, including a bubble coral that were all happily coexisting.  
<Ok>
A friend of mine has been raising maroon clownfish and so I got a couple small ones for my tank.  They are less than an inch long.  
<Cool!>
I do not have any anemones in my tank and was not planning on getting any.  
<Is not necessary for clownfish, nor is it recommended with your existing corals. You are wise here.>
For the first week everything was going fine.  However  within the last week or so the clownfish have adopted the bubble coral as their host.  
<Fairly common occurrence>
Although they don't appear to be harming it, it is not extending as much as it was.  Do you think in time the bubble coral will adjust or should I consider placing a bubble tip anemone in my tank.
Thanks again and again
<I've seen many Maroon clowns hosting bubble corals, on many occasions. It is very much a wait-and-see situation, watch the clowns behavior and the corals reactions. If you start to see deteriorating flesh, or the polyps simply aren't opening and inflating at all, then you may need to intervene, either removing the clowns or the coral. In my opinion though, all will be fine with time, and the coral will learn to accept the 'loving touch' of the clowns! Cheers! -Justin>

Clownfish And Bubble Coral...Often Not A Good Mix - 12/04/06
We are having trouble with a bubble coral.  We have had him about 3 months and he seemed great at first, but the last two weeks he has been completely closed both at night and during the day.
<<Not good>>
The tank is as follows:  95 gallon with 100 pounds live rock, pH:  8.2, Nitrates/nitrites/ammonia: 0, SG: 1.024, temperature: 79-80 F.  The bubble shares the tank with 2 Sebae clowns,
<<A clue here>>
a yellow tang, assorted crabs, frog spawn coral, torch coral, hammer coral, and a hairy mushroom.  All other corals "seem" to be doing ok.  We have tried target feeding and moving him to areas of less light and less current, but he remains closed.  He is at least 8 inches away from any other coral.  Around the time he started to close, we noticed one of the clowns persistently trying to host him.
<<Ah yes...>>
We don't know if that was part of the problem or just a coincidence.
<<It is very likely this is the problem.  Some corals do fine with the "attentions" of clownfish, but the large vesicles of Plerogyra species are easily irritated/damaged by the sharp septa of the skeleton>>
Any suggestions?
<<Separate the bubble coral from the clownfish>>
Thanks!
Michele
<<A pleasure to assist.  EricR>>

PLEASE HELP ASAP!!!  Ammonia spike!!! Cnid., Anemone incomp.   9/30/06
Hey crew.  I need your advice.  I have (maybe had) a 29 gallon reef with a 15 gallon refugium.  I was gone for 2 days and came back to see I had a bubble coral looking like it had died twice!  I removed it, and took a water sample.  Ammonia was .25 ppm.  Well, I just so happened to be out of salt and needed to wait till the morning to go get some.   All of a sudden... white slime (looks kinda like mucus) come off of everything.  Every piece of live rock, every mushroom... everything.  I tried syphoning as much as I could.
   <Yikes>
  I ran and got an old Fluval and threw some carbon in it and ran it for the night.
<Good try>
I woke up the next morning to about 10 dead mushrooms, a dead hammer coral, and a rose bubble tip
<... incompatible>
that was not looking good at all.  I removed all of them..
<Best... but not back together... the root cause...>
and noticed lots of goo coming off over every part of the anemone.  So, ... as i tried not to freak out, but rather act quickly.....  I went as fast as i could and got some salt.  I did a 10 gallon water change right then, and had to run into work.  I cam back from work and did a water test and the ammonia was 1.0 ppm.  I was at a loss of what to do.  I contacted my LFS and asked what they recommended.  I  was instructed to do a very very large water change.  
<About the best stop-gap measure>
  I changed 21 gallons of the 29 or so (less cause of live rock)  and left the water that was in the refugium.  I added a bag of live sand and mixed it with the sand currently in there hoping not to destroy all the helpful bacteria.  I then added 21 gallons of freshly made water and added a packet of bio-Spira marine.  Before the water change... everything looked like they were saying good bye to life... now they look like they want to fight to live.  I have a strange feeling this large of a water change will cause the tank to cycle again.  I was hoping to defeat this fear with bio-Spira.. but only time and your advice will tell.
  I did a full water test.  Here are the results:
  Ammonia - .25 (maybe .5, holding the test tube looks like both of them.  More so the .25 but I guess i should error on the side of caution)
  Nitrite .05
  Nitrate 5.0
  Alk 2.9
  Ph 8.4
  Ca - 300
  Salinity 1.026  
Please give me some advice on what to do.  Anything and everything I can do.  I was planning on doing another 8 gallons tomorrow to try and lower that ammonia.  Are the benefits of doing the change worth the risk of further causing the tank to cycle?  I am soo lost and need your help.   
  Josh Henley
<Mmm, something "caused" the initial stress/reaction of the one Euphylliid... very likely something to do with the presence of the Anemone... cascade of bad-events after this... Please read here:
   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, particularly re Anemone Incompatibility with other Cnidarians. Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn setup -lighting question.   8/4/06
Dear Bob, WWM crew,
  I can't thank you guys enough for all the advice I've received with my past reef and FW setups. I came across your website and read CMA and Anthony's book on coral propagation after I set up my reef and have relied on you for help. For the first time, I'm actually setting up a smaller reef tank after reading on your website and the above mentioned books.
  My goal is to house two frogspawns -one Euphyllia divisa and one Euphyllia paradivisa. AND NOTHING ELSE -except for macro algae, live rock and live rock hitchhikers. I currently have a 20 gal "Long term QT" that is housing 15# live rock, 4" DSB, red kelp, Chaetomorpha and the two corals. These will be transferred to the new setup over the course of 6 months or so... after the new DSB matures.
  I had a 45 gallon acrylic tank built for this -dimensions: 24" X 24" foot print and 18" height, with a 20 gallon sump. I have a Remora Pro with Mag3 pump, and an Eheim 1250 return pump -with a 3' head, this should flow about 240 gph. The return is plumbed thru a SCWD with nozzles on either side at the back of the tank. In the middle of the back side of the tank, I'm planning on adding either a sea swirl of one of those oscillating power heads for an additional 200ish gph flow by the time the corals make the move. That's about a 15X turnover...
  The tank will have a 5" DSB with 12" of water and about 30# of live rock. The system water volume is about 40+ gallons, with 28 gallons or so in the display, 12-14 in the sump/circulation.
Questions:
a) I have some polyp and mushroom coral hitchhikers on the LR -I'm on the fence as to what to do with them -remove them or let them be? I don't want to deal with any chemical aggression between the three groups.
b) Lighting options -I want to use a single HQI bulb to light the center of the tank so I can have glimmer lines and adequate lighting near the center of the tank with subdued lighting along the walls and rim to encourage coralline algae growth. The bulb will be exactly over the center of the tank, with one coral offset 4" from the center and the other offset about 8" from the center along a diagonal -I hope this makes sense to you. I don't know if I should go with a 70W or 150W HQI bulb -15,000K spectrum. Heat is not a consideration, as I'm willing to use a chiller if that's what it comes down to, but I don't want any more light than what I can get away with.
Thank You,
Narayan
<<Narayan:  Frogspawn generally likes medium to high light and medium flow.  I have one about half way down in a 180 tank under 400W SE MH lights and another at the bottom of a 75 tank under VHO lighting.  Both of them are growing and doing fine.  When mushrooms get near the frogspawn, they lose.  Thus, I don't think you have much to worry about.  As far as lighting, you can use either bulb.  You seem to being planning a lot of flow.  Frogspawn will not like to be blasted by a lot of flow.  You'll have to direct the jets of water away from it.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Coral Compatibility...Mushrooms vs. Hammer Coral  7/18/06
You guys (and gals) have been very helpful to me in the past, and have helped me weather more than a few storms with my 36 bowfront reef, and I'd like to see if you can help me with this one.  I cannot keep mushrooms alive.  I have a 36 bowfront reef with hang-on-filter and hang-on skimmer, 2 powerheads in the tank for flow, 3.5 inch DSB, about 50 pounds live rock and 2 65 kW PC fluorescents.  I've been up and running more than a year with stable params (1.024, pH 8.2, ammonia-nitrites-nitrates all reading 0, temp 80, Ca 390, alk 4.5).  Few small fish are healthy (although I have a Falco hawk who is a bit aggressive), and I have star polyps, yellow polyps, some button polyps, and a branching anchor, all of which are growing and doing very well.  I run carbon and PolyFilters changed alternately every 2 weeks.  I use RO water with Oceanic salt (will switch to Instant Ocean when I run out).  Twice now, I have placed mushroom rocks (Discosoma) at the base of my tank, and each time after slow and careful acclimation, they expand and look great for about 2 weeks, but after 2 weeks, they begin to contract and fold up, the mouth protrudes, and then over a week or so they wither and dissolve.  I add iodine rarely (a few drops a week when my tests show almost none in the tank).  I don't target feed the corals, but add some thawed Cyclop-eeze with the fish food once or twice a week, and I know they pick up some spare Mysis when I feed the fish.  I'm a little confused, as mushrooms are supposedly so "easy", but I'm have great luck with my anchor, but can't keep the mushrooms alive.  I was hoping PolyFilter and carbon would take care of any battling between species.  I've never seen any "critters" bothering the mushrooms, and there are no chunks missing.  I place them low in the tank, and an area of relatively low flow.  I cannot find any specific requirements for mushrooms anywhere, but my best guess is something "unknown" in the water which is toxic specifically to mushrooms, or there is something missing (an additive), that is required for mushrooms, but not for the others.  Would love to tap your experience for any ideas.  I like the looks of them, but if I just can't have them, I hate to have any more withering in my tank....
<The Anchor/Hammer Corals are very aggressive in regards to chemical warfare.  Even with the use of chemical media, the problem will exist in a small tank such as yours.  The Hammer Coral has long sweeper tentacles, so nothing is too safe in it's vicinity.  Give the Hammer Coral a ride to your dealer, let him hold it for a while and continue chemical filtration.  I'm pretty sure within two weeks you will see an improvement.  James (Salty Dog)>
Tim

Re:  Coral Compatibility...Mushrooms vs. Hammer Coral   7/18/06
Thanks for the reply, but I'm wondering if you might have any other thoughts.  My first failures with mushrooms happened several months ago, before the hammer was in the tank.  Aside from the new mushrooms (now about 2 weeks in) he's my most recent addition (about 8 weeks now, and doing well over the 8 weeks).  The mushrooms and anchor are at opposite ends of the tank, and the anchor is placed high, while the mushrooms are low.
<Doesn't matter, they are still in the same tank.>
It may be the hammer this time, but I suspect there may be something else...
<Thinking environmental problems, any cleaners used near the tank, substance in freshwater used for top off, etc.
Read here and related links.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shroomhlthfaq2.htm  James (Salty Dog)>

Euphylliids coral placement... Packin' a Reef with a Crowbar  - 05/17/2006
Hi! If a torch and a hammer coral are placed side by side are they going to "fight" each other?
<They will directly sting and compete likely yes...at the least will stunt each others growth.>
Would you advice against it?
<Yeah.>
In fact I do have a torch (I think its healed at last...) and a hammer and there is enough distance between them to "stack" a second torch between them and still a little bit room for growth.
<How much room, sweeper tentacles can reach quite a way...I wouldn't do it.>
It would look fantastic, I just worry about warfare...
<Me too.>
Thanks!
Dominique
<Adam J.>

Jumping Goby & Greedy Shrimp  - 04/27/06
Hi Crew,
Two quick questions.
I just found my citron goby lying on the floor. It bounced when I touched it so I gingerly picked it up after rinsing my hands in system water (not drained back into the tank either) then cupped it in the tank. I let it catch its breath and it seemed to gain its bearings and find a place to rest and recuperate. Scared me, I love this little ball of attitude.<they are quite interesting!> I had no idea that they were jumpers and I am concerned as to why it jumped out, especially considering that there is no easy way for it to escape. Other tankmates are a skunk cleaner, 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 neon goby. Weekly 15% water changes. I have had an increase in water temp from my usual 78-80F to a higher 82F. Any insight, and do I need to do anything else for the poor fellow? <he should be alright! sounds like you keep the tank maintained well!>
Next, I am deciding if I should return my skunk cleaner. 1 month in the tank and doing phenomenally well. Has already molted 3 times, tries to clean the fish, actually cleans my hand when I let it. An absolutely greedy animal. Devours several Mysis shrimp at each twice-daily feeding plus as much Spirulina flakes as possible while swimming upside down at the surface. Actually very quick learner and has taken to harassing my frogspawn (3 heads, added 10 days ago) during feedings to steal any Mysis that may fall into it or that I place purposefully. I am concerned that the frogspawn will suffer for the "attention" and not adjust to it. I have noticed a tentacle that does not get full during the day anymore. The shrimp is over zealous, but has not directly hurt anything, not even my small xenia. Your opinion. <I would keep a close eye on this. It is a judgment call. If you feel the frogspawn
is not doing well I would definitely return either the frogspawn or the shrimp....good luck with this decision, IanB>
Thank you for the website, individual attention to emails and your two books I have purchased. Invaluable and interesting. I really appreciate my friend that introduced me to your website. Keep up the great work. <thank you and good luck to you!>
Jeff Morgan

Bubble Coral/Compatibility    4/3/06
Hello, <Hello Jamie>
    I have read that bubble corals are quite aggressive.  <They do have long sweeper tentacles.> My question is, "does this hold true for members of their own species, or just other corals?"  <All corals regardless of species should not placed in a position where they or other corals might sting them.> My father and I just purchased a yellow and pink bubble coral, and we thought it would look nice next to an already established pink bubble in the center of our tank- making the illusion of one large bubble or a bubble colony if you will. Your advice would be much appreciated, and until we hear back from you we will keep the two bubbles apart, just in case.
Thank you.  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)

Plerogyra/Clown combo. concern 7/21/05
Hey everyone!
<Jen>
First, I have to say I LOVE your site.  I just recently got my Marine Science degree and all through the 4 years (not to mention setting up my own
tanks) your website has been an information source and just plain fun! Thank you.
<Ah, welcome, and congratulations on your graduation>
I have a quick question, one I probably know the answer to already, but I just wanted input.
I have a small reef tank (I could give you all the parameters and water quality and whatnot here - they are perfect, however it is irrelevant.)  My
question is: I have a Bubble Coral - nice size maybe 6 inch diameter base and my two percula clowns have taken to it like they normally would an anemone host.
<Happens>
I did have a bubble tip anemone that they just didn't want anything to do with.  (They are tank bred so I knew this relationship may
take some time.)  But they now play, sleep, and show all the interaction signs with the Bubble coral and not the anemone.  This is a great
relationship to watch!  But my question is: is this safe for the coral?
<Mmm, as long as the Clowns are not too rambunctious...>
I know the bubbles are fairly delicate and thin - could this in any way be detrimental to the coral itself?  Or is this perfectly fine and I should
just be honored to be witness to such a relationship.
<You would, will likely see if there is any real trouble here. The Clowns are likely aware of the effect of their physical nteraction with the Plerogyra>
Thanks so much, I just wanted input!  Keep up the outstanding work and I look forward to your response.
~Jen
<Perhaps you will join us in time. Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn and hammer coral question 7/6/05
I have a small frogspawn (2 inch across) and 2 hammers (1 1.5 inch across & 5 inch across).  Can these 3 corals be placed together in close proximity without them killing each other?
<Keep a minimum of 8" between LPS specimens to avoid sweeper tentacle wars.  I would also use carbon in LPS tanks to cut down on allelopathic chemical concentrations in the water>
Thanks,
S> Montgomery
<Anytime - M. Maddox>

Xenia stung by Frogspawn 3/14/05
Hi there! Thanks for the great help you provided me so far! I only have two simple questions.
1- Is there anything I can do to save a pulsing Xenia which was stung by a Frogspawn??? (Only one branch was stung)
<strong water flow is key>
2- I'd like to know if the Coralife Aqualight Power Center is a good timer. (I'd really like to know. It's the only timer of this kind available around here and it's 75 $ CAN, so I don't want to get something that wouldn't do...) Thanks a lot!!! Ivan
<I don't have personal use with the timer or know of anyone close that has. Better for you, do check the big message board "Reef Central" for a consensus on customer satisfaction. Anthony>

Stung Clam?
I bought a couple of clams a couple of weeks ago.  One is a Derasa and the other a Maxima. I put them on the sand bed with a rock slightly burying
beneath them.  They are under MH lighting and I feed DT's Phytoplankton to the tank.  The other evening a branch of my Hammer Coral dropped onto the
opened Derasa.
<Oh!>
  The clam still opened ok that evening but not as much the next day.  Now today it is closed tightly.  My guess is that it is suffering
from stings from the Hammer Coral.  Am I on the right path or should I be looking at something else.
<This is likely it>
I have not seen any snails but I did see what appeared to be tiny black specks (like copepods only black) dotted about the
shell.  The Maxima is doing fine and that's why I believe it was because of the Hammer.  Is there anything that I can do here?  Thanks Brad
<Not much... do make sure the Euphylliid is securely anchored... away from the Tridacnids. Bob Fenner>

Elegance coral risky to fish? 1/2/05
I have a question before I purchase a gorgeous specimen of C. jardinei. I had a terrible experience lately where my rose bulb anemone ate a $150 geometric pygmy hawkfish the day I got it! I was broken hearted over the loss of such a rare fish.  Nonetheless, I have moved the anemone to a different tank
<Yikes!!  I feel your pain.  My carpet anemone has dispatched with about the same dollar amount in various shrimps and small fishes.  This is one of the many reasons that anemones aren't ideal community tank inhabitants.  Kudos for sucking it up and moving it!>
but after thinking this through, what is to keep the stinging tentacles of a C. jardinei from capturing a perching fish such as a hawkfish as well? Do you guys have any reports of this coral taking fish?  Thanks In Advance!
<C. jardinei has one of the most powerful stings of any of coral, and is more powerful than even some anemones (Mine has actually raised welts on my fore arm!).  That said, fish capture doesn't seem to be a big problem.  However, I suspect that most folks are careful not to mix slow moving or perching fishes with this coral, and I would suggest exactly that precaution.  Best Regards.  AdamC.

Hammer Coral Killed My Fish?
Hi, this is my first time to your site, it's great! I am new to saltwater keeping and am wondering if a hammer coral can kill fish? I bought on yesterday and woke up this morning and my clown fish and scooter blennies were dead. I didn't know what else it could be, my water checked out fine.
>>>Hi Brian,
It's not likely that your hammer coral is responsible for your fish deaths. As far as what IS responsible, I wish I could be of more help. Having kept various species of Euphyllia though with many different species of fish, and NEVER having a problem, I'm all but certain your hammer is not to blame.
Cheers
Jim<<<

Corals Vs. Anemone...
First, let me start off by thanking you for this wonderful site.  I have learned so much about saltwater aquarium from your site.  Many thanks.
<And thanks to you for the kind words!>
My question is regarding an aggressive Maroon Clown.  I searched the previous post and did not find any information.  I have a Maroon Clown which has been paired with anemone in a 75 gallon tank for the past year or so.  Within the last month or so, the anemone has moved his location in the tank. I have recently notice that the clown has started to attack my Torch and Hammer corals which is within proximity (very close) of the anemone.  In attempts to relocate the anemone to another location, I used a small power head, thinking this would push him back in the other direction.  This did not work.
<Not a good idea...You really want to avoid handling the anemone unless the situation is absolutely grave, IMO>
The clown is suffering damage from the attacks on the corals. I do not think the corals will continue to be able to withstand the abuse.  If you could offer any suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks George
<Unfortunately, these are highly aggressive corals; even hobbyists can be "stung" by touching one of these nasties. Since keeping these corals and anemones together is not advised, I'd make a decision as to which of the animals you intend to keep for the long run. Remove the corals or the anemone...It's your call. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Mixing Aggressive Corals
Hi Bob,
<Scott F. in today!>
I got a bit of a startle last night.  I have a tank full of Frogspawns, Hammers, and Torches, and in one of your articles (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/elegance.htm), you wrote that Catalaphyllia should not be placed near any other  cnidarians.  
<They can be highly aggressive, and don't mix well with stinging cnidarians in close quarters.>
I've always been under the impression that as long as they were in the Euphyllia genus, they could live side by side without any problems and haven't witnessed any issues thus far in such an arrangement.  Is this not true?
Thanks, Don
<Well, Don, while it is certainly possible to keep them together in the same system, it is not recommended in most closed systems, simply because of the potential allelopathic competition. These are highly aggressive corals! In the long term, one species-or one specimen- will almost always dominate the others. In most small to medium sized systems, I'd stick to one species; or at least I'd allow considerable distance between specimens of Euphyllia and other corals. HTH. Regards, Scott F>

Crazy Clownfish...
Hello All,
<Hello there! Scott F. at the keyboard tonight!>
I have a nutty full grown tomato clown of two years (he is full grown at two right?)
<Pretty darn close, if not full grown...>
I don't keep anemone's because they are near impossible to
keep and sting everything.
<Not true all the time, but I sometimes wish more hobbyists would share your "phobia", for the sake of anemones!>
My tomato stays directly above the bubble coral (softball size) and bobs and weaves like some drunk bi-plane pilot.  I know he enjoys the "current" and the coral but... Is he destined to croak being the daredevil he is? Thanks in advance. Steve in California
<Well, Steve- those clowns are a wacky bunch! I would not be overly concerned. However, the Bubble Corals do possess some rather aggressive stinging tentacles at night, which could pose a threat to the fish. However, I think that the fish will probably avoid sleeping there...Personally, I'd be more concerned about the potential damage to the coral caused by the fish's antics! Keep an eye on things...Don't go crazy, though! Regards, Scott F>

Frogspawn vs. frogspawn? Naw, the family gets along fine... (03/04/04)
Hey crew,
<Ananda here helping out...>
I have two different frags of frogspawn, one has pink tips and the other has green. My question is will these two morphs sting each other if placed in close proximity (<6" apart)?
<I've seen several sorts of frogspawn in a tank, living happily together. Well, as happy as corals get, anyway. I've seen frogspawn next to hammer corals with both doing well.>
Thanks.
Steve
<You're quite welcome. --Ananda>

When Corals Attack! (Pt. 2) 
Hi Scott! 
<Hello again!> 
Thanks for all the help ! 
<Glad to be of service!> 
I went to the LFS last weekend, and sad to say they don't sell mushrooms or button polyps. They only have hammers, bubble corals, and flowerpot corals. 
<All of which can be both challenging and fascinating!> 
I've read the articles and FAQs in the site, and I may consider the hammer coral, since bubble corals get big, and flowerpots are hard to take care of, as my tank is a tiny 2 month old 10 gal nano-tank. 
<Yikes! If you are going with a hammer coral in a nano- I'd avoid any other corals. This is a rather small volume of water, and the potential allelopathic competition would be pretty tough!> 
I'm starting to stock corals while my fishes (2 false Percs and 1 black Sumatra saddleback) are in QT, recovering from ich. They're now ok, but I'm still observing them. 
<Be patient...you did a good job on beating the disease; no sense rushing them back into their home> 
I'll be buying thick long gloves for the hammer coral. Thanks again ! Romel 
<Keep up the good work! Regards, Scott F>

Anchor coral hurtin' and hostin'... AKA "clowns in my coral"
Hi
<not yet... but thanks for asking>
I have a Anchor coral Euphyllia the problem is that at times the some of the coral looks shriveled and then seems fine the shriveled part is not always the same It does not extend as much as it did ,I have 2 common clowns who play in it are there responsible?
<that is certainly a primary problem... it is unnaturally abrasive and repetitive in the confines of an aquarium. In time, it will wear or tear the Euphylliid perhaps causing an infection and possibly leading to the coral's death. They need to be separated>
Water stats are  PH 8.2-8.3
Ammo 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 5
Calcium 430-450
KH 12 is this to high
<its fine but on the high end... avoid creeping higher. Just like you calcium... be careful not to abuse supplements>
Phos 0
Thanks for your help Tim
<best regards, Anthony>

Euphyllia (hope that's right)
Hi Bob,
I have heard that it is possible to place different types of Euphyllia next to one another (polyps touching) without any problems. The only exception being the torch coral. I have a beautiful Anchor Coral in my tank now and I'd like to group in with another (with different coloring) and possibly a frogspawn. Can these be massed together without any ill-affects?
<Hmm, wouldn't say "massed together"... better that they not actually touch, be able to reach each other...>
Also,.......thanks for the previous direction on the home-made calcium
reactor. That's a nice site.
<Ah, good... I sense your mental cogs, wheels a-turning!>
Take care, Tony
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Bubble Coral and Tomato Clowns
Hello. I was wondering if you ever heard of a bubble coral hosting a tomato or cinnamon clownfish.
<Oh yes! Plerogyra, and many other members of its family... hosting all sorts of species of Clowns>
I purchased a bubble coral several months ago (I am 100% certain it is a coral) and my cinnamon clown has taken to it as if it were an anemone. I have anemone in the tank also that I purchased for the clownfish, but he ignores them and remains with the bubble coral... Is this normal?
Thanks and great site!
Ben Mendez
<Thank you, and yes... "normal" for aquarium care. Bob Fenner>

Fwd: Stung
Guys, I tried to send this from my balky home computer this morning, but not sure it arrived. Today I saw the Doc, who asked if I could identify the toxin (turns out he keeps a FO salt tank himself). The site is infected and it's in a bad place, so the information would be very helpful. Try me at XXXX@murthalaw.com (office tomorrow) or XXXX@earthlink.net (home). Many thanks.
Good morning Gentlemen
A week ago I brushed the back of my hand against the business end of my bubble coral (Plerogyra sinuosa) while reaching for something on the bottom of the tank. Two days later, the area was red and sore (my hand, not the tank). It is getting worse not better, so I'm off to the doctor this afternoon. What can I tell him about the nature of the toxin? I understand the basic nematocyst physiology, but can't find the "active ingredient." I'll be in work, so please  respond to enewton@XXXX Many thanks.
Newt
<Proteinaceous... likely a corticosteroid salve will do here... and time. If you should have your hands in systems with cnidarians again, you might be a candidate for longer-length plastic gloves. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Wound.htm and the FAQs beyond.
Bob Fenner>

Stung (Anthony?#8364;™s turn)
Good morning Gentlemen
<cheers, my friend>
A week ago I brushed the back of my hand against the business end of my bubble coral (Plerogyra sinuosa) while reaching for something on the bottom of the tank. Two days later, the area was red and sore (my hand, not the tank). It is getting worse not better, so I'm off to the doctor this afternoon. What can I tell him about the nature of the toxin? I understand the basic nematocyst physiology, but can't find the "active ingredient." I'll be in work, so please respond to XXX  Many thanks. Newt
<not at all likely that the coral imparted a toxin, per se. Many other worse things to enter with the breach by the sting... Vibrio and mycobacterium are concerns. Do review some of the possibilities here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/Wound.htm.
To your good health. Anthony>