Hammer coral budding, and more beh.  – 06/02/08
Greetings,
<Salutations>
I have a hammer coral, and there are several buds on the exposed skeleton. One bud is currently poking out of the parent tissue. I read that I would have to remove them from the parent to save them.
<Mmm, no... or not necessarily. If desirous of "speeding up" the process, you can attempt removal, but otherwise will/do drop off in time of their own accord>
What's the easiest way to do this with minimal risk to the parent colony?
<A sharp metal tool like a chisel...>
Wouldn't removing the buds make the original colony look ugly with holes everywhere?
<Beauty is in the eye, mind...>
? The buds are very tiny, about 3/16" of an inch in diameter.? Will this little thing really grow with just adequate light and water flow?
<If conditions, their development is sufficient...>
Also, while feeding my fish, I noticed a fully expanded hammer coral tentacle floating about in the water.? I siphoned it out and put it in my 10 gallon tank on a rock to see if it will settle. Is this a bad sign?
<Is not a good sign or behavior... can/does sting other sea life... including sessile invertebrates, fishes... best to remove>
Another thing is that my hammer doesn't seem to be interested in food. I placed some mysis on its tentacles, but the coral didn't react. It just let the mysis float away. Do I need to put food directly on its mouth, or should I not worry about feeding it?
<I would feed it... read on WWM re: http://wetwebmedia.com/starfdgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
 

Euphylliid allelopathy and halide recommendation   8/22/07 Hi, <Hello Tom> I think I might need to remove some LPS corals, wanted to get your advice. I had a small Frogspawn and Torch in a 130G SPS-dominated tank that have grown much larger over the last year or two, and after reading the FAQs, I see these could be the reason some of the SPS growth seems to have slowed down. <Yes> I've attached a picture of the section of the tank with the Euphyllids, and circled some nearby, recently added SPS frags. The Frogspawn is now about 7" across, and the Torch is about 8" across. When extended, they now reach to within 3-4" from the closest SPS frags. <Perhaps even closer with their "sweepers", part. at night> Elsewhere in the display are larger SPS colonies, some 6"+ in diameter. Several months ago I removed and traded to a LFS my Hydnophora and Stylophora colonies because they got too big (10-12") <Nice> At first I thought the slower growth might be due to the lighting, which is 2x250W Aqualine 10K mogul halides on PFO magnetic ballasts. Been using them for years, replacing bulbs every 12 months. The bulbs were changed about 6 months ago, and that's about the same time I noticed slower SPS growth. So I also thought maybe I got a weak bulb last time. <Mmm, could be a factor... there are others> Turnover in the display good at about 23x, using two Seaswirls and a chiller return. Water is stable: SPG is 1.026, pH 8.3, Ca 380-400, dKH 9-10, Mg 1250-1300, Nitrate 0 (always), 20% water changes every 2 weeks. I run an EV180 skimmer, and use a Poly-filter or carbon in the sump. I've included a picture of the EV180 in action. Has been a good performer, especially given the small size. <Looks good> Also have a Chaeto refugium in the sump (added the Chaeto about 9 months ago) Would you recommend removing these Euphyllids in favor of SPS growth, or do you think I should be considering something else? <I would locate all other Cnidarians further away for sure... a good foot from the fully expanded Euphylliids> Second question is, should I be looking at a different brand of 250W halide mogul bulb? <Mmm, no, not IMO> I thought I had decent results with the Aqualines in the past, but is there a *best* alternative for maximizing SPS growth and color? Maybe I should be looking at a different bulb, different ballast, more wattage, or DE bulbs? Any input & ideas are welcome. Thanks, Tom <Please search for the marine lighting works of Sanjay Joshi and Dana Riddle for the later/greater input here. Bob Fenner>

Bubble coral troubles... just growth, normal behavior – 07/01/07
Hi Crew,
<Wendy>
I have a few questions regarding our bubble coral. We have a 60 gal. tank that we added a small (approximately 3 inch diameter) bubble coral to 4 months ago. Since then, it has grown to be about 12 inches in diameter!
<Wow!>
It is beautiful, and has lots of sweeper tentacles out most of the time.
<Mmmm... do you wonder why? What their function is?>
My concern is that it has now "stretched" almost down to the floor of the aquarium on one side. The bubbles are still present and look fine, but it's mouth area is clearly visible as the tissues are pulled down around it. Is this normal? I wondered if it would fragment itself off and start a new coral?
<Is normal... is "protecting", extending its territory>
My other question also involves the same bubble coral. It's stinging tentacle is about 6 inches long, and is causing us to move other corals even further away than we had originally.
<Ah yes>
(We had everything about 6 inches away from it.) This coral has become a beast and is quickly taking over our tank!! Is it possible to clip off the stinging tentacle without harming the coral?
<Mmm, no. Not advised>
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Wendy
<... A larger system in your future? Bob Fenner>

Can a bubble coral and maroon clownfish co-exist?   - 12/12/06
Hello everyone and Merry Christmas,
<Hey Carole and Harold! Happy Holidays to you and yours as well! JustinN with you today.>
I have a 100 gallon reef tank.  In it I had 1-yellow tang, 1-blenny, 2-cardinals and numerous corals, including a bubble coral that were all happily coexisting.  
<Ok>
A friend of mine has been raising maroon clownfish and so I got a couple small ones for my tank.  They are less than an inch long.  
<Cool!>
I do not have any anemones in my tank and was not planning on getting any.  
<Is not necessary for clownfish, nor is it recommended with your existing corals. You are wise here.>
For the first week everything was going fine.  However  within the last week or so the clownfish have adopted the bubble coral as their host.  
<Fairly common occurrence>
Although they don't appear to be harming it, it is not extending as much as it was.  Do you think in time the bubble coral will adjust or should I consider placing a bubble tip anemone in my tank.
Thanks again and again
<I've seen many Maroon clowns hosting bubble corals, on many occasions. It is very much a wait-and-see situation, watch the clowns behavior and the corals reactions. If you start to see deteriorating flesh, or the polyps simply aren't opening and inflating at all, then you may need to intervene, either removing the clowns or the coral. In my opinion though, all will be fine with time, and the coral will learn to accept the 'loving touch' of the clowns! Cheers! -Justin>

Clownfish And Bubble Coral...Often Not A Good Mix - 12/04/06
We are having trouble with a bubble coral.  We have had him about 3 months and he seemed great at first, but the last two weeks he has been completely closed both at night and during the day.
<<Not good>>
The tank is as follows:  95 gallon with 100 pounds live rock, pH:  8.2, Nitrates/nitrites/ammonia: 0, SG: 1.024, temperature: 79-80 F.  The bubble shares the tank with 2 Sebae clowns,
<<A clue here>>
a yellow tang, assorted crabs, frog spawn coral, torch coral, hammer coral, and a hairy mushroom.  All other corals "seem" to be doing ok.  We have tried target feeding and moving him to areas of less light and less current, but he remains closed.  He is at least 8 inches away from any other coral.  Around the time he started to close, we noticed one of the clowns persistently trying to host him.
<<Ah yes...>>
We don't know if that was part of the problem or just a coincidence.
<<It is very likely this is the problem.  Some corals do fine with the "attentions" of clownfish, but the large vesicles of Plerogyra species are easily irritated/damaged by the sharp septa of the skeleton>>
Any suggestions?
<<Separate the bubble coral from the clownfish>>
Thanks!
Michele
<<A pleasure to assist.  EricR>>

PLEASE HELP ASAP!!!  Ammonia spike!!! Cnid., Anemone incomp.   9/30/06
Hey crew.  I need your advice.  I have (maybe had) a 29 gallon reef with a 15 gallon refugium.  I was gone for 2 days and came back to see I had a bubble coral looking like it had died twice!  I removed it, and took a water sample.  Ammonia was .25 ppm.  Well, I just so happened to be out of salt and needed to wait till the morning to go get some.   All of a sudden... white slime (looks kinda like mucus) come off of everything.  Every piece of live rock, every mushroom... everything.  I tried syphoning as much as I could.
   <Yikes>
  I ran and got an old Fluval and threw some carbon in it and ran it for the night.
<Good try>
I woke up the next morning to about 10 dead mushrooms, a dead hammer coral, and a rose bubble tip
<... incompatible>
that was not looking good at all.  I removed all of them..
<Best... but not back together... the root cause...>
and noticed lots of goo coming off over every part of the anemone.  So, ... as i tried not to freak out, but rather act quickly.....  I went as fast as i could and got some salt.  I did a 10 gallon water change right then, and had to run into work.  I cam back from work and did a water test and the ammonia was 1.0 ppm.  I was at a loss of what to do.  I contacted my LFS and asked what they recommended.  I  was instructed to do a very very large water change.  
<About the best stop-gap measure>
  I changed 21 gallons of the 29 or so (less cause of live rock)  and left the water that was in the refugium.  I added a bag of live sand and mixed it with the sand currently in there hoping not to destroy all the helpful bacteria.  I then added 21 gallons of freshly made water and added a packet of bio-Spira marine.  Before the water change... everything looked like they were saying good bye to life... now they look like they want to fight to live.  I have a strange feeling this large of a water change will cause the tank to cycle again.  I was hoping to defeat this fear with bio-Spira.. but only time and your advice will tell.
  I did a full water test.  Here are the results:
  Ammonia - .25 (maybe .5, holding the test tube looks like both of them.  More so the .25 but I guess i should error on the side of caution)
  Nitrite .05
  Nitrate 5.0
  Alk 2.9
  Ph 8.4
  Ca - 300
  Salinity 1.026  
Please give me some advice on what to do.  Anything and everything I can do.  I was planning on doing another 8 gallons tomorrow to try and lower that ammonia.  Are the benefits of doing the change worth the risk of further causing the tank to cycle?  I am soo lost and need your help.   
  Josh Henley
<Mmm, something "caused" the initial stress/reaction of the one Euphylliid... very likely something to do with the presence of the Anemone... cascade of bad-events after this... Please read here:
   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, particularly re Anemone Incompatibility with other Cnidarians. Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn setup -lighting question.   8/4/06
Dear Bob, WWM crew,
  I can't thank you guys enough for all the advice I've received with my past reef and FW setups. I came across your website and read CMA and Anthony's book on coral propagation after I set up my reef and have relied on you for help. For the first time, I'm actually setting up a smaller reef tank after reading on your website and the above mentioned books.
  My goal is to house two frogspawns -one Euphyllia divisa and one Euphyllia paradivisa. AND NOTHING ELSE -except for macro algae, live rock and live rock hitchhikers. I currently have a 20 gal "Long term QT" that is housing 15# live rock, 4" DSB, red kelp, Chaetomorpha and the two corals. These will be transferred to the new setup over the course of 6 months or so... after the new DSB matures.
  I had a 45 gallon acrylic tank built for this -dimensions: 24" X 24" foot print and 18" height, with a 20 gallon sump. I have a Remora Pro with Mag3 pump, and an Eheim 1250 return pump -with a 3' head, this should flow about 240 gph. The return is plumbed thru a SCWD with nozzles on either side at the back of the tank. In the middle of the back side of the tank, I'm planning on adding either a sea swirl of one of those oscillating power heads for an additional 200ish gph flow by the time the corals make the move. That's about a 15X turnover...
  The tank will have a 5" DSB with 12" of water and about 30# of live rock. The system water volume is about 40+ gallons, with 28 gallons or so in the display, 12-14 in the sump/circulation.
Questions:
a) I have some polyp and mushroom coral hitchhikers on the LR -I'm on the fence as to what to do with them -remove them or let them be? I don't want to deal with any chemical aggression between the three groups.
b) Lighting options -I want to use a single HQI bulb to light the center of the tank so I can have glimmer lines and adequate lighting near the center of the tank with subdued lighting along the walls and rim to encourage coralline algae growth. The bulb will be exactly over the center of the tank, with one coral offset 4" from the center and the other offset about 8" from the center along a diagonal -I hope this makes sense to you. I don't know if I should go with a 70W or 150W HQI bulb -15,000K spectrum. Heat is not a consideration, as I'm willing to use a chiller if that's what it comes down to, but I don't want any more light than what I can get away with.
Thank You,
Narayan
<<Narayan:  Frogspawn generally likes medium to high light and medium flow.  I have one about half way down in a 180 tank under 400W SE MH lights and another at the bottom of a 75 tank under VHO lighting.  Both of them are growing and doing fine.  When mushrooms get near the frogspawn, they lose.  Thus, I don't think you have much to worry about.  As far as lighting, you can use either bulb.  You seem to being planning a lot of flow.  Frogspawn will not like to be blasted by a lot of flow.  You'll have to direct the jets of water away from it.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Coral Compatibility...Mushrooms vs. Hammer Coral  7/18/06
You guys (and gals) have been very helpful to me in the past, and have helped me weather more than a few storms with my 36 bowfront reef, and I'd like to see if you can help me with this one.  I cannot keep mushrooms alive.  I have a 36 bowfront reef with hang-on-filter and hang-on skimmer, 2 powerheads in the tank for flow, 3.5 inch DSB, about 50 pounds live rock and 2 65 kW PC fluorescents.  I've been up and running more than a year with stable params (1.024, pH 8.2, ammonia-nitrites-nitrates all reading 0, temp 80, Ca 390, alk 4.5).  Few small fish are healthy (although I have a Falco hawk who is a bit aggressive), and I have star polyps, yellow polyps, some button polyps, and a branching anchor, all of which are growing and doing very well.  I run carbon and PolyFilters changed alternately every 2 weeks.  I use RO water with Oceanic salt (will switch to Instant Ocean when I run out).  Twice now, I have placed mushroom rocks (Discosoma) at the base of my tank, and each time after slow and careful acclimation, they expand and look great for about 2 weeks, but after 2 weeks, they begin to contract and fold up, the mouth protrudes, and then over a week or so they wither and dissolve.  I add iodine rarely (a few drops a week when my tests show almost none in the tank).  I don't target feed the corals, but add some thawed Cyclop-eeze with the fish food once or twice a week, and I know they pick up some spare Mysis when I feed the fish.  I'm a little confused, as mushrooms are supposedly so "easy", but I'm have great luck with my anchor, but can't keep the mushrooms alive.  I was hoping PolyFilter and carbon would take care of any battling between species.  I've never seen any "critters" bothering the mushrooms, and there are no chunks missing.  I place them low in the tank, and an area of relatively low flow.  I cannot find any specific requirements for mushrooms anywhere, but my best guess is something "unknown" in the water which is toxic specifically to mushrooms, or there is something missing (an additive), that is required for mushrooms, but not for the others.  Would love to tap your experience for any ideas.  I like the looks of them, but if I just can't have them, I hate to have any more withering in my tank....
<The Anchor/Hammer Corals are very aggressive in regards to chemical warfare.  Even with the use of chemical media, the problem will exist in a small tank such as yours.  The Hammer Coral has long sweeper tentacles, so nothing is too safe in it's vicinity.  Give the Hammer Coral a ride to your dealer, let him hold it for a while and continue chemical filtration.  I'm pretty sure within two weeks you will see an improvement.  James (Salty Dog)>
Tim

Re:  Coral Compatibility...Mushrooms vs. Hammer Coral   7/18/06
Thanks for the reply, but I'm wondering if you might have any other thoughts.  My first failures with mushrooms happened several months ago, before the hammer was in the tank.  Aside from the new mushrooms (now about 2 weeks in) he's my most recent addition (about 8 weeks now, and doing well over the 8 weeks).  The mushrooms and anchor are at opposite ends of the tank, and the anchor is placed high, while the mushrooms are low.
<Doesn't matter, they are still in the same tank.>
It may be the hammer this time, but I suspect there may be something else...
<Thinking environmental problems, any cleaners used near the tank, substance in freshwater used for top off, etc.
Read here and related links.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/shroomhlthfaq2.htm  James (Salty Dog)>

Euphylliids coral placement... Packin' a Reef with a Crowbar  - 05/17/2006
Hi! If a torch and a hammer coral are placed side by side are they going to "fight" each other?
<They will directly sting and compete likely yes...at the least will stunt each others growth.>
Would you advice against it?
<Yeah.>
In fact I do have a torch (I think its healed at last...) and a hammer and there is enough distance between them to "stack" a second torch between them and still a little bit room for growth.
<How much room, sweeper tentacles can reach quite a way...I wouldn't do it.>
It would look fantastic, I just worry about warfare...
<Me too.>
Thanks!
Dominique
<Adam J.>

Jumping Goby & Greedy Shrimp  - 04/27/06
Hi Crew,
Two quick questions.
I just found my citron goby lying on the floor. It bounced when I touched it so I gingerly picked it up after rinsing my hands in system water (not drained back into the tank either) then cupped it in the tank. I let it catch its breath and it seemed to gain its bearings and find a place to rest and recuperate. Scared me, I love this little ball of attitude.<they are quite interesting!> I had no idea that they were jumpers and I am concerned as to why it jumped out, especially considering that there is no easy way for it to escape. Other tankmates are a skunk cleaner, 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 neon goby. Weekly 15% water changes. I have had an increase in water temp from my usual 78-80F to a higher 82F. Any insight, and do I need to do anything else for the poor fellow? <he should be alright! sounds like you keep the tank maintained well!>
Next, I am deciding if I should return my skunk cleaner. 1 month in the tank and doing phenomenally well. Has already molted 3 times, tries to clean the fish, actually cleans my hand when I let it. An absolutely greedy animal. Devours several Mysis shrimp at each twice-daily feeding plus as much Spirulina flakes as possible while swimming upside down at the surface. Actually very quick learner and has taken to harassing my frogspawn (3 heads, added 10 days ago) during feedings to steal any Mysis that may fall into it or that I place purposefully. I am concerned that the frogspawn will suffer for the "attention" and not adjust to it. I have noticed a tentacle that does not get full during the day anymore. The shrimp is over zealous, but has not directly hurt anything, not even my small xenia. Your opinion. <I would keep a close eye on this. It is a judgment call. If you feel the frogspawn
is not doing well I would definitely return either the frogspawn or the shrimp....good luck with this decision, IanB>
Thank you for the website, individual attention to emails and your two books I have purchased. Invaluable and interesting. I really appreciate my friend that introduced me to your website. Keep up the great work. <thank you and good luck to you!>
Jeff Morgan

Bubble Coral/Compatibility    4/3/06
Hello, <Hello Jamie>
    I have read that bubble corals are quite aggressive.  <They do have long sweeper tentacles.> My question is, "does this hold true for members of their own species, or just other corals?"  <All corals regardless of species should not placed in a position where they or other corals might sting them.> My father and I just purchased a yellow and pink bubble coral, and we thought it would look nice next to an already established pink bubble in the center of our tank- making the illusion of one large bubble or a bubble colony if you will. Your advice would be much appreciated, and until we hear back from you we will keep the two bubbles apart, just in case.
Thank you.  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)
                                                                                                            Jamie O'Brien

Plerogyra/Clown combo. concern 7/21/05
Hey everyone!
<Jen>
First, I have to say I LOVE your site.  I just recently got my Marine Science degree and all through the 4 years (not to mention setting up my own
tanks) your website has been an information source and just plain fun! Thank you.
<Ah, welcome, and congratulations on your graduation>
I have a quick question, one I probably know the answer to already, but I just wanted input.
I have a small reef tank (I could give you all the parameters and water quality and whatnot here - they are perfect, however it is irrelevant.)  My
question is: I have a Bubble Coral - nice size maybe 6 inch diameter base and my two percula clowns have taken to it like they normally would an anemone host.
<Happens>
I did have a bubble tip anemone that they just didn't want anything to do with.  (They are tank bred so I knew this relationship may
take some time.)  But they now play, sleep, and show all the interaction signs with the Bubble coral and not the anemone.  This is a great
relationship to watch!  But my question is: is this safe for the coral?
<Mmm, as long as the Clowns are not too rambunctious...>
I know the bubbles are fairly delicate and thin - could this in any way be detrimental to the coral itself?  Or is this perfectly fine and I should
just be honored to be witness to such a relationship.
<You would, will likely see if there is any real trouble here. The Clowns are likely aware of the effect of their physical interaction with the Plerogyra>
Thanks so much, I just wanted input!  Keep up the outstanding work and I look forward to your response.
~Jen
<Perhaps you will join us in time. Bob Fenner>

Frogspawn and hammer coral question 7/6/05
I have a small frogspawn (2 inch across) and 2 hammers (1 1.5 inch across & 5 inch across).  Can these 3 corals be placed together in close proximity without them killing each other?
<Keep a minimum of 8" between LPS specimens to avoid sweeper tentacle wars.  I would also use carbon in LPS tanks to cut down on allelopathic chemical concentrations in the water>
Thanks,
S> Montgomery
<Anytime - M. Maddox>

Xenia stung by Frogspawn 3/14/05
Hi there! Thanks for the great help you provided me so far! I only have two simple questions.
1- Is there anything I can do to save a pulsing Xenia which was stung by a Frogspawn??? (Only one branch was stung)
<strong water flow is key>
2- I'd like to know if the Coralife Aqualight Power Center is a good timer. (I'd really like to know. It's the only timer of this kind available around here and it's 75 $ CAN, so I don't want to get something that wouldn't do...) Thanks a lot!!! Ivan
<I don't have personal use with the timer or know of anyone close that has. Better for you, do check the big message board "Reef Central" for a consensus on customer satisfaction. Anthony>

Stung Clam?
I bought a couple of clams a couple of weeks ago.  One is a Derasa and the other a Maxima. I put them on the sand bed with a rock slightly burying
beneath them.  They are under MH lighting and I feed DT's Phytoplankton to the tank.  The other evening a branch of my Hammer Coral dropped onto the
opened Derasa.
<Oh!>
  The clam still opened ok that evening but not as much the next day.  Now today it is closed tightly.  My guess is that it is suffering
from stings from the Hammer Coral.  Am I on the right path or should I be looking at something else.
<This is likely it>
I have not seen any snails but I did see what appeared to be tiny black specks (like copepods only black) dotted about the
shell.  The Maxima is doing fine and that's why I believe it was because of the Hammer.  Is there anything that I can do here?  Thanks Brad
<Not much... do make sure the Euphylliid is securely anchored... away from the Tridacnids. Bob Fenner>

Elegance coral risky to fish? 1/2/05
I have a question before I purchase a gorgeous specimen of C. jardinei. I had a terrible experience lately where my rose bulb anemone ate a $150 geometric pygmy hawkfish the day I got it! I was broken hearted over the loss of such a rare fish.  Nonetheless, I have moved the anemone to a different tank
<Yikes!!  I feel your pain.  My carpet anemone has dispatched with about the same dollar amount in various shrimps and small fishes.  This is one of the many reasons that anemones aren't ideal community tank inhabitants.  Kudos for sucking it up and moving it!>
but after thinking this through, what is to keep the stinging tentacles of a C. jardinei from capturing a perching fish such as a hawkfish as well? Do you guys have any reports of this coral taking fish?  Thanks In Advance!
<C. jardinei has one of the most powerful stings of any of coral, and is more powerful than even some anemones (Mine has actually raised welts on my fore arm!).  That said, fish capture doesn't seem to be a big problem.  However, I suspect that most folks are careful not to mix slow moving or perching fishes with this coral, and I would suggest exactly that precaution.  Best Regards.  AdamC.