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FAQs about Bristletooth Tangs, Genus Ctenochaetus
Disease/Health 2 Related Articles:
Ctenochaetus, Naso,
Related FAQs: Ctenochaetus Disease 1,
Ctenochaetus Tangs 1, Ctenochaetus
Tangs 2, Ctenochaetus Identification,
Ctenochaetus Behavior, Ctenochaetus
Compatibility, Ctenochaetus Selection,
Ctenochaetus Systems, Ctenochaetus
Feeding, Ctenochaetus Reproduction,
Surgeons
In General, Tang ID,
Tang Behavior,
Compatibility, Systems,
Feeding, Disease, | 
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Opaque White Spots on Tomini Tang Pectoral Fins 11/10/08
Hello, <<Howdy>> Long time reader - first time writer.
<<Cool!>> Thanks for all the great info. <<Welcome>> My wife
and I have a 70 gallon FOWLR tank. The parameters are as follows:
Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Specific Gravity 1.025, pH 8.2-8.3
Ecosystem 3012 with skimmer and Chaetomorpha Approx 40 lbs of live
rock (we have been slowly increasing with time) The occupants of the
tank are: Tomini tang <<Not easily kept>> Pearlscale butterfly,
Dwarf flame angel, Yellow clown goby, Bullet goby, 2 Ocellaris Clowns, 2
Skunk shrimp, 2 Fire shrimp, Various cleanup crew (snails and hermit
crabs) There does not appear to be any problems with occupants
getting along together. <<Looks like a fine mix>> My question is
in regards to the Tomini tang. We have had him for several months with
no problems until this morning when I noticed several opaque white spots
on his front pectoral fins. The spots are not as pronounced as ich. (We
have tried to take some pictures of the fins and the Tomini is not a
willing subject. The spots are rather subtle.) <<And perhaps nothing
to be concerned with>> The Tomini is acting normally, feeding,
grazing and zooming around the tank. I'm not sure how concerned I should
be about this? <<Me neither but likely not too much. The spots may
simply be a "mood" indicator>> We have not noticed any spots on the
other fish. I can put him in a QT (of course not without tearing apart
the tank), but I don't want to put undue stress on the fish (and myself)
if it is not warranted. <<I am in agreement here. I would simply keep
an eye on the fish for now>>>> We quarantined him when we got him.
The Tomini did not do well, he did not want to eat and started to
decline so I popped him into the main tank after approximately 10 days
and he perked right up. <<This was wise of you… As intimated earlier
this species can be difficult to acclimate to aquarium life, but is
fairly hardy (in my experience) once done so>> With regards to UV
sterilizers, I have read on your site that you feel that water quality
and a healthy diet are the key to a healthy system. <<Indeed>> Our
trusted LFS has been suggesting a UV sterilizer as the best way to
prevent problems over the long haul with disease and parasites. Your
thoughts? <<UV sterilizers are by no means a panacea, and certainly
no replacement for good maintenance and sensible stocking, but they can
serve as a useful adjunct to systems such as yours>> Thanks in
advance for your input. Jim <<Happy to share. EricR>>
Kole Tang Question, Ctenochaetus acclimation, lack of quarantine
5/28/2008
Dear Crew, <Andy> I was reading up on Kole Tangs because I'm
thinking of purchasing one for my 110g display and I noticed in the
article written by Bob (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/koletang.htm)
that he generally advises against quarantining this species and instead
using an extended pH adjusted freshwater dip (how long is "extended"?).
<Five or so minutes... w/ constant observation, "swirling" of water or
the use of mechanical aeration (a "bubbler")> Has anything changed/is
this still good advice? As always, thank you! Andy <Is still
my opinion. This pc. was penned w/in this last year... maybe should have
incept. dates... Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Ctenochaetus disease 4/27/07 Hi, <Diego> When I
realized what you meant for "live in your city" it was too late, I
hope I didn't look too silly. <Mmm, no> Thank you for the
quick reply and the huge help. Unfortunately the Tennent Tang died
while I was doing a freshwater dip to cure a great number of black
spots that he had. I followed the dipping procedure but I think that
something went wrong with the pH adjustment (I didn't wait enough
time for the PH to adjust and when I measured the pH after the dip
it had dropped to 7.6-7.8). Bad way to learn it but it won't happen
the next time. After reading on your website I decided to try
with a Bristletooth tang, which seems more suitable for my tank (75
Gallons). <Yes> Strangely enough my LFS has scarcity of Kole
tangs and abundance of Tomini tangs. <Mmm, they likely don't buy
from dealers that carry much in the way of Hawaiian imports... the
"drop" this year is huge for Ctenochaetus strigosus> This brings
me to my current problem. I bought the Tomini on Sunday and it is
currently in the quarantine tank with a 6 line wrasse, today I
noticed a big mark/bump on his side behind the pectoral fin (see
pic1). I think It could be some kind of skin lesion due to him
bumping into something in the tank, <Likely so> especially
since on the other side it has some scratches in the same region
(see pic 2). Could it be something else? Should I treat it with
something? <Possibly... Nitrofurazone... see WWM re dosage, SOP>
The water in the quarantine tank comes from the main system and
currently is: Salinity 1023 temp 78-78.6 F pH=8.2
alkalinity=7.5-8dKH (slowly rising in the main system due to the use
of Kalkwasser) Nitrites 0 Nitrates 5-10 ppm (<5 in the main system).
The fish is still shy and scared but eats the enriched (Selcon)
Mysis shrimp and the only odd behavior is some fast jerks to the
side (this could make him bump into objects) while swimming and
sometimes when he is standing still in one place. Thank you very
much, Diego <Welcome. BobF> | 
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- Yellow Eyed Tang with Tail Rot 6/16/06 - Hi I recently bought
a yellow eyed tang and it looked healthy when I bought it. They said it
was eating properly (they all say that) and has been doing great. I got
him home and noticed his tail is beginning to "rot away" its not that
bad but it is noticeable. He swims around fine and is constantly
grazing....he has tried the green algae but doesn't seem to like it. I
have noticed he likes certain things in the formula one. I did readings
and ammonia is 0, alk is 0, ph 8.2, nitrate is 5.0 and nitrite .05
(0ppm) I was think maybe a parasite since he seemed to want my hermit to
clean him....so i bought a cleaner shrimp. What are your thoughts....
Thanks mIke <I think that all things being equal, that the tangs
tail will heal. You could add some quality fish vitamins like VitaChem
to encourage the process, but there's not really much you can do but be
patient. Cheers, J -- > Kole tang discolored spot (can't
figure this out) 3/27/06 Hello guys, hate to
be a pain, but I can't figure this out. I have read about every tang
disease I can find on your site (and looked at the pictures) and I just
can't come to a conclusion about this. I have had this kole tang for
about a month, he is a very small fish 2-2.5 inches max <Is very
small! Am wondering who in HI has a mist/barrier net of such small
mesh/draw that would collect such a specimen> and I feel pretty good
about keeping him alive up till this point since I have read any tang
under 3 inches is extremely difficult to keep alive. <In general,
for most species, yes> The tank is a 55 gallon with 1 false percula
clown, kole tang, cleaner shrimp, 2 peppermint shrimp, flower anemone,
and a neon green bubble tip anemone. <Two species of anemones in
this sized system is "asking for trouble"> A couple weeks ago he
developed some small BB sized discolored spots (almost white do not look
raised) well after a couple days they completely went away and left no
holes or scares or anything, the clown seems to be absolutely fine. Now
today a new spot about the same size has appeared since last night,
between his head and dorsal fin. I work at a LFS and no one seems to
know what this is. I have been feeding him spectrum pellets...
<Good product... high palatability, nutritional value> its the only
thing I can get him to eat, he has no interest in dried Nori (red or
green) and I have very little algae in the tank so he is probably not
getting enough "veggies" but I have tried feeding him about everything
under the sun and he has no interest. I have to put the spectrum
pellets on a rock to get him to eat because he is so shy. I have also
been letting some natural sunlight on the tank for a couple hours a day
which I have read helps HLLE, but I don't think that's what this is.
<Me neither> All of my water parameters are fine, ammonia 0,
nitrites 0, nitrates 2.5, phosphate < 0.5. Since I work at a LFS I am
able to do plenty of water changes to keep my water at tip top
shape. So, what do you think, is this a vitamin problem? Sorry about
the lengthy email but I wanted to make sure I included
everything. Thank you for your time and a great site. <Mmm, could
"just" be stress... but the two anemones... could definitely be at play
here... in efforts to "poison" each other, are likely mal-affecting your
fishes. If nothing else, I would remove one of these... and soon. Bob
Fenner>
Re: Kole tang discolored spot (can't figure this out)
4/1/06 Thanks for the quick response sorry I was not able to
thank you earlier...working 2 jobs 14 hours a day doesn't leave you much
free time. <Yikes! Hope your commute is short... to
allow sleeping time!> I have returned the flower anemone to the
store I work at and the tiny kole tang looks all better, once again
thanks for the quick response I really appreciate it. <Ah, very
welcome. Bob Fenner, who used to work long, continuous hours, and now
plays about as long>
Sick Kole Tang 1/30/06
Hello! About two months ago my husband and I purchased a Kole
Tang. Our quarantine tank was set up by placing water from the main
display tank into a 20 L. We placed "used" filter media into the
filtration unit and left the bottom bare. A large PVC elbow was also
placed in the tank for cover. A few days after introducing the Kole to
this system the nitrite levels were becoming toxic and obviously
stressing our fish. We did a 60-70% water change and kept monitoring
the water quality. Again the nitrite levels rose and stressed the fish
(very rapid breathing, dark color change). I had observed this fish at
the LFS for a week before purchase and he did not exhibit any outward
signs of illness/disease. Even though I knew the stress he was
suffering could cause a previous latent disease to manifest itself
<Well-stated> I still felt that the best option at this point was to
place him in the main display. Six weeks go by in the main tank and by
all outward appearances the Kole seemed to be doing well. Although
finicky, he would eat Sea Veggies and Spirulina flakes with a gusto that
matched that of our Oscars. Formula Two frozen was offered repeatedly
but he didn't seem too enthused with it. In the meantime I tried to
find a source of Formula Two flakes. I typically give everyone (12
tanks) a thorough visual check up at least once a day, often times more.
<Good practice> Unfortunately two days went by where I was unable
to do this and, being held firmly in the grip of Murphy's Law, this is
when disaster struck. When I saw the Kole he looked like he had been
dropped in a pile of dust bunnies. <Yikes> After checking the
water parameters in the previously mentioned quarantine tank I moved
him (to quarantine). Upon very close inspection he had clear, round,
raised bumps all over his body in addition to the "cotton like"
patches. After investigating the archives of WWM media I concluded that
I should treat him for parasites and fungal infection. I added Fungus
Clear and Parasite Clear (Jungle Products) to the water. <These
are not efficacious here> Over the next few days he started to
look better. By the end of the treatment period indicated on the
package, our Kole looked pale but only had a few minute areas of fungus
left. We performed the recommended water change and treated again for
fungus. The package directions indicated that this would be OK. After
the second treatment he looked pale and had less of an appetite but
looked free from disease. Great, I thought, I'll perform a water change
and leave him there for a little while. During these treatments we were
testing the water quality with a reagent kit. PH =8.2, Ammonia=0,
Nitrites=0, Nitrates=30 were the regular readings. I thought all was
going relatively well until he started to look worse. The fungus and
clear bumps returned with a vengeance. His skin also started to get
dark, sub dermal patches. Then the ammonia and nitrite levels started
to rise. I had placed a different thermometer in the tank after the
last water change and consequently noticed that there were wide
variances in water temperature too. It seemed as though the main
display was the only place where I could keep the tank parameters stable
enough to effect a cure. So out goes the live rock, in goes the Kole. I
have read the WWM archives for hours trying to find out what exactly is
wrong with our Kole <Mmm, w/o a microscopic exam. it is not worth
definitive speculation... but could be a number of external parasites
here... a prophylactic dip/bath enroute to either quarantine and/or your
main tank would have been useful here> and what the best method for
treatment is. I'm confused, frustrated and mostly heartbroken because
it seems that my best intentions only lead to the further demise of our
Kole. There are a wide variety of answers by many different people in
the WWM archives. It is a great resource however a novice or amateur
aquarist such as myself can find it difficult to know which course of
action is the most appropriate. I'm hoping you can suggest a solution
that will help us, it would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Sincerely, Christina <Thank you for writing so well... clear
and thoroughly. At this point, if you have "other water" from a
non-contaminated "clean" system, I would move the Kole out of the
present treatment system, lightly bleach/wash, sterilize it, add the
"used water", prepare a slightly dilute (1.022 spg) bath with ten drops
of 37% formalin/formaldehyde (37% solution) per gallon, add aeration and
leave the Kole in this for five minutes, moving it to its re-made
quarters... Wait three days and begin a copper treatment... chelated
will be better than free cupric ion... with testing... for three weeks.
Bob Fenner>
Kole Tang - 01/03/2006 Hey guys, <Hi
Tate.> My Kole that I have had for 5 months started looking a little
odd earlier this week, but it did not occur to me that he may be sick.
He was just a little bit lighter in color than usual in the early
morning and the rest of the day he would be a nice rich color.
<Possibly just the normal, "night" color.> Today I noticed that he
has spots of the discoloration around his head and I am wondering if
this is a sign of some sickness, or if he is just simply changing color
for some unknown reason. <Bad signs IMO. Diet is often an issue with
these, have you researched HLLE? Other nutrition related disease?>
The only thing that I have changed in the last couple of weeks is the
lighting schedule, and that was a fairly sizeable change. <Probably
stressed your livestock as well.> I will probably do a 20% water
change when I get home this evening just to help out. <Good start,
but do research that diet info. Are you heavily feeding greens (like you
would a Yellow Tang) by chance?> Thanks in advance. Tate
<You're welcome. - Josh>
Re: Kole Tang EMERGENCY
12/24/05 I e-mailed yesterday about a Kole tang that has an ich
infestation. James instructed to catch him and treat him with
copper. Unable to catch him last night, I added a cleaner shrimp
and a dose of Marine Max - as suggested by my LFS based on his
experience with the product. Dilemma of the night - he
LOOKS better - better color, looks like he may have eaten, fewer and
smaller ich spots,<Fewer ich spots doesn't mean the parasite is
waning. Once they enlarge they burst into many more individual cells
that will be looking for a host very soon.> etc. But, he is resting
upright on the sand against a rock and breathing pretty hard. <Doesn't
sound very good to me.> Will a possible chase tonight be his doom
before the ich? The better color is a big mixed message! <Yes it
is. As I said earlier, if you don't catch and treat he is going to die
anyway, so the choice is yours. Rarely will non-copper based
medications cure a fish infested with ich.> Still try to catch him and
treat with copper? I just don't know where he stands at this
point. Please advise ASAP - I know - it's two days before Christmas
- so I really appreciate your help that much more. <I've been
advising but apparently you don't want the hassle of removing him which
is going to require removal of most rock so the stress from the catch is
minimal. Do quarantine future purchases for at least 30 days. James
(Salty Dog)> Thanks, Misty
Sick Yellow-Eyed
Tang 8/31/05 Hey there, <Hi> Great website, but it's
a little hard to navigate and search. <Do you have (specific)
suggestions on how we might improve these aspects?> Good
resource nevertheless. I wanted to seek some professional advice
about my sick yellow-eyed tang. I purchased it about 3-4 weeks
ago. My 60 gallon tank has been cycled through for a few weeks
before that, and I introduced a small spotted damsel to start
the bio-cycle. When I purchased the yellow-eyed tang, I also
introduced a small clown fish at the same time. I secluded the
damsel in fear that it would be too aggressive for the clown and
the tang, but after rearranging the live-rock and releasing the
damsel after a few days, they seemed to get along quite well.
Very recently within the past 24 hours, my yellow-eyed tang had
secluded itself under a large piece of live-rock and didn't come
out of its hiding place. Usually, it would be waiting with the
other two fish for me to feed them. Before yesterday, the tang
seemed to be swimming very normally, and I fed it Formula 2
pellets w/ garlic. He seemed to be eating those fine, but
wasn't too keen on the seaweed sheets. <Takes time...
familiarity> I did an immediate 10-15% water change, and lifted
the live-rock it was hiding under, only to find the tang on its
side and breathing heavily. I do not have a quarantine tank, so
I had to seclude it in a small glass fish-bowl that is semi
submerged in my 60-gallon tank. My only other idea was to place
it in the homemade sump, but was afraid of the water pump
catching the tang in its vacuum inlets. I've attached two pictures
of the tang. It is still breathing and still has normal coloration.
The only other symptoms are that it looks anorexic (it has only
looked this way within the last 24 hours), and seems to swim
normally when in a gentle current. Any help/advice is
appreciated. <Mmm, well, this specimen is badly emaciated...
starved... So, at least part of the answer here is poor handling
prior to your receiving the fish... "It has a low index of
fitness"... this coupled with stress of moving, a new tank... I
would return it to the main tank, and hope it recovers of its own
accord... Do take a look at pix of other/healthy Ctenochaetus
species... notice how much more well-fleshed they are. Yours is way
too skinny. Bob Fenner> |  
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