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FAQs about Dendrophylliid Corals 2

Related Articles: Dendrophylliid Corals

Related FAQs: Dendrophylliids 1, Dendrophylliid Identification, Dendrophylliid Behavior, Dendrophylliid Compatibility, Dendrophylliid Selection, Dendrophylliid Systems, Dendrophylliid Feeding, Dendrophylliid Disease, Dendrophylliid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral PlacementFoods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef CoralsStony Coral Behavior,

Duncan Coral heads popping off   8/15/11
Hello, I tried searching both WWM and the internet but really not finding any information.
About 4-5 months ago I purchased some frags of Australian Duncans. It was 6 heads that were actually fragged into a 4 head and 2 head frags.
Since, I brought them home, I notice that there had been zero growth and that I had lost a few heads leaving just a crater in the tube that the head attaches to. I thought something was eating them.
I moved them around and spot feed and had really seen the heads grow nice and bug and fat, but still not producing any new growth.
<What is near this Dendrophylliid? In the same system?>
Well two days ago I noticed that the four headed frag was down to two heads, At first I again thought something was getting them but this morning, I noticed that the head was just popping off all by itself.
When I turned the lights on the heads were closed as normal and as they came out one of them just popped off slowly. that head and the one I lost the other day I noticed just floating around the tank.
I am wondering what might be happening to my Duncans?
<... what you describe... Need more, useful information. Particularly list of tankmates>
All other coral in my tank are happy and healthy and have no signs of trouble. I checked to make sure no other coral was touching or could touch the Duncan with tentacles.
<Don't have to touch>
I had just had a complete water check done at the LFS all was good.
<... data, not opinions>
I am running a 29g and a 10g, 29g had the 4 head and the 10g had the 2 head. I noticed this happen in 10g first.
<These small systems are problematical... too hard to keep optimized, stable>
With tank size, I do water changes weekly and change filters often.
I have a normal clean up crew consisting of snails, blue leg and scarlet hermits
<Not a fan>
In the 29g I have a clown, 2 Chromis, 2 Banggai cardinals and a scooter blenny 10g is a bow tie damsel and some cleaners lighting on the 29g is 2x30" t5 10k white and actinic and a 12' panorama led lighting on 10g are 2 x 15 watt pc bulbs.
I guess id like to know why I saw no growth and now why the heads are popping off.
<Most likely allelopathy... secondly water quality issue/s>
Also are the heads the living part of the coral and need to be feed or is the tube they are attached part of their body.
<? See WWM re foods/feeding/nutrition for the family>
the two heads floating in the tank are they dead or should I place them someplace?
<? Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/CorlCompArt.htm
and the linked files above... the family's compatibility... Bob Fenner>

Duncanopsammia axifuga - Question for Sara M.?  Gen. care, sys. 07/07/08 Dear Crew, I have noticed that more and more LFS are selling "Duncan" or "Whisker" corals, i.e., Duncanopsammia axifuga. Unfortunately, there is not a lot of information available regarding these large polyps stonies, and the information that is available is not consistent. <Yes, I have noticed that too.> For instance, suggestions for lighting differ from site to site--some say low light some say high light, and one site says "1 to 4 watts per gallon" (...uh, could you be a little more specific?). <LOL I hate those "watts per gallon" recommendations. I get this image of light-bulb soup. But never mind that... yeah, it makes no sense. "Watts per gallon" takes no account of type of lighting or depth of the tank, etc. It's just a ridiculous way to try and estimate lighting needs (imo).> In any event, given the rising popularity of this coral, I was wondering whether Sara M. planned to add this coral and its care requirements to her wonderful website, www.asira.org? <Yes, I have been planning to. However, like you, I'm at a loss to know their actual care requirements (too many conflicting reports). Sure, I could make a pretty good guess based on what most LPS need, but I'd like to find someone (better yet, a few people) who have been keeping them well for awhile so I can get a better idea of what to recommend. Please do ask around, and send me what info you have (my personal email is XXXX)--[note to BobF, you can't post this publically please]. Done. RMF> I really do love this beautiful coral and would like to get a frag for my 30g tank in which I keep a Yellow Watchman Goby/Pistol Shrimp and a Pearly Jawfish, but I'm concerned that the lighting isn't enough--4x24W HO T5s (2x10,000K and 2x460nm actinics). <I do *think* this would be enough if the coral were well fed. It does seem like most LPS tend to do ok with lower lighting if you make up for it with target feeding.> Every LFS owner/employee with whom I've spoken about this coral raves about its growth rate and how they've been able to keep a few colonies and frag them off with regularity--which always makes me ask them ... "So why are you selling it at $[insert ridiculous price] per polyp?" <Haha... supply, demand and hype. Just as with the Acan craze, the stores will sell them for what people will pay. But try not to judge them too harshly. With all the e-venders popping up everywhere, and the economy slumping, I imagine a lot of these places are struggling just to stay afloat (unfortunately).> Thanks! Andy <Thank you, Sara M.>

Duncanopsammia axifuga, Whisper Coral, Duncans -12/25/2007 Hey Bob, hope this finds you well and having fun. I most certainly am. First off... thank you for all your input on my elegance and after reading a few tough emails your way, I would just like to say " with my dumb luck and your excellent advice my elegance is doing wonderfully." ( I would rather be lucky than good, good only gets you so far!!) <<Sara here now. :-)>> Second...I think it cool that you have one of my pics adorning the masthead of one of the pages on your site :>) and now my question...any information on this animal, Duncanopsamia axifuga, Whisper Coral, Duncans. <<Ugh, these common names can be annoying sometimes. The first time someone told me they had a "Duncan" it was actually an Acanthastrea. So then I thought a "Duncan" was just a name for a type/color variety (or origin description) of Acanthastrea. But, anyway, thanks for the clarification by including the Latin name.>> I truly believe I have searched the site and other areas to no avail. <<Hmm, try searching the spelling "Duncanopsammia" --two m's. ;)>> I am to the understanding this is coming out of Australia and that it is tank cultured and pretty much grows like a weed, is this correct and other knowledge you can lend would be much appreciated. <<According to Veron's "Corals of the World," they're from the family Dendrophylliidae and naturally found around the northern and western coasts of Australia and in the South China Sea. But unlike their Tubastrea cousins, they ARE zooxanthellate. From what I've heard/read, they prefer swirling water flow and generous feeding. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find much more detailed hobby-focused articles or captive-care information on them.>> This coral seems to be showing up a lot for it to be "not seen often." Again, all thanks, and Merry Christmas Ron <Don't know much re this particular species care... Am asking SaraM here to reply. BobF> <<Unfortunately, I don't know that much about them either... but am quite curious now. Merry Christmas, Sara M.>>

Turbinaria.. All hope lost? -- 06/26/07 Hi Crew! <Arvind> After four years of finding all the answers to questions about my reef aquarium in your faq archives, I am all set to ask you my first question! <All right> I got a 4" Turbinaria coral from a friend of mine. The coral is in pretty bad shape - the polyps are all open but they are pale (bleached?), the calcium skeleton is of a peachish colour but the fact I am worried about most is that there seems to be no connecting tissue between the polyps. The polyps seem to be isolated on the exposed skeleton but are retracting/opening normally. I currently have the coral under MH lighting and plan to try to feed it appropriate food in the hope that it will recover. My question is - Am I fighting a losing battle here? Are these corals known to regenerate tissue from the polyps? <Yes> Is this even possible? If yes, any other steps that I could take to help the coral out? Thanks for your help regards Arvind <... spaces between your sentences... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrodisfaqs.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>  

Coral advice   3/19/07 Greetings Crew, <Hello John, Brandon with you this evening.> I enjoy your site and visit it almost daily. What a great wealth of info. I tell everyone I know that is into this hobby about your site and the Conscientious Aquarist. Usually I can answer my questions in the FAQs, but I think I need a little help from you on this one. <I will give it a shot.> Anyway, about my tank: I have FOWLR that I am slowly converting over to a reef. It is a 37 gallon tank (30"Lx22"H). I have about 30lbs of base rock with 16lbs of Caribbean live rock on, in and around it. The tank has been up for about 6 months, and all of the current base  rock and a few of the current inhabitants were moved into this tank 6 months ago from a 29 gallon that I had running as a FOWLR for about a year. I currently have  Old SeaClone 100 skimmer, a Fluval 204 with pre-filter and Seachem matrix, and a Penguin 170 power filter without the bio wheel. I use a surface skimmer attachment on the Penguin intake and use a 100ml bag of Purigen in the box. For Lighting I have 2 Coralife 36watt  dual T5 fixtures. Each fixture has one 18w 10K and one 18w 03 bulb. I know this is low lighting and I do not plan on keeping any corals that require any better. <You say this now'¦  Once the bug has bitten you'¦> For fish, I have one False Perc, one African Pigmy Angel, one Royal Gramma, one Banggai Cardinal, and one three stripe Damsel (I know these guys can get pretty aggressive, but he was my very 1st fish and I love the little guy). <Nothing wrong with that, as long as you are prepared to deal with the aggression.> For Corals, I am just starting out . I have 2 small mushroom colonies, a small frogspawn and a small brown button polyp. <I would at least look at a stronger lighting scheme.  Not much stronger, but a little.> I also have one tube coral growing on a piece of live rock, this is what my question is about. <I am guessing that this is what it was sold to you as?> About 4 weeks ago, I saw this piece of rock in a tank and my LFS, It has what appears to be a tube coral growing on it (picture attached). I am not sure if it is a tube maybe you can identify it by the picture. <Never heard it called Tube Coral.  More commonly called Sun Coral.  Scientifically known as Tubastrea sp.> It did not look real good, but the tank it was in had almost no circulation and no lighting to speak of. <This particular coral is azooxanthellate, meaning that it does not need light to survive.  You are going to have to feed this coral, and you are going to have to feed it a lot.  I have two colonies, and I run through about six cubes of Fortified Mysis shrimp every other day.> I thought it was worth trying to resurrect. <Doh!> The rock sat in my tank without doing much for the last few weeks.  Despite my efforts, the coral did not gain any new color or growth, but I did notice it opening up to accept food on rare occasion.   <You should be able to support it if you are up to the challenge of hand feeding it, and upgrading your skimmer, because the one you have will not handle the amount of food that you are going to have to place in the tank for this coral.> I thought maybe I had mis-identified this specimen and had something that my tank and lights would not support. Then, the other day, I had to move some rock around due to a snail attempting to aquascape my tank. I moved this rock with the tube coral on it over to the other side of the tank when I noticed that there is what appears to be some kind of rot or a parasite that has created a large cavity on one side of the coral. It looks as if something has actually borrowed out from the inside. The polyps around this area are all dark and appear to be dead.  I thought I saw what looked like a brown worm swimming in the hole, but can't be sure it was not just some  foreign matter or a piece of the actual coral. <Sounds like a barnacle to me.  I have one in my larger colony of Tubastrea.> Here are my concerns: <Ok.> Should I pull this rock and coral out of my tank? <If you are not up to caring for it, yes I would remove the coral, and take it back to the store where I got it.> Do you have any idea, based on the picture, what the problem is? <Mentioned above.> Is there a risk to any of the other species of coral that I am keeping?   <Nope.  Barnacles pick a place and stay.  It will probably die off after awhile.  Barnacles don't live long in home aquaria.  For now enjoy the diversity.> If this is a parasite, and I pull out this rock, is there anything I can do to attempt to save this coral? <See above.> Any advice you can offer will be greatly appreciated. <At this point your biggest concern should be the care and feeding of the coral.  This is not a species that is easily cared for, and most expert aquarists won't make the mammoth feeding commitment that is necessary for this coral.  You will need to make a trip to a Pharmacy, I like Walgreen's. Go to the Pharmacist, and ask for a 3cc/5ml syringe.  This is what you will feed the coral with.  Purchase some Selcon, or Zoe and Zoecon.  Melt down about three Mysis cubes, and soak them in one of the aforementioned products for 10 - 15 minutes.  Then suck up as much as the syringe will hold.  You should then proceed to GENTLY squirt each and every individual polyp with a little of this food.  In order to get them to come out to begin with you will have to do this at night, after you have turned off the tank lights. With time they can be acclimated to come out to feed during the day.  I have heard reports that this particular coral needs to be in strong current. I have not found this to be necessary for long term success, but I will say that it is most likely needed as the polyp extension is much greater with brisk water movement.  You will need to feed each individual polyp like this at least three times a week.  If you want to ensure long term health, you should be doing this every other day.  As I said before, this will greatly increase your bioload, and the skimmer that you have will not handle this kind of feeding.  I would look into the Aqua-C Remora.  Another resource for information that you could find helpful can be found here, http://www.melevsreef.com/suncoral.html.  I am thinking about writing an article specifically on Sun Coral for this site, and seeing if Bob will put it up.  So without further adieu, Good luck with this coral.  Brandon.><<Will gladly "put this up"... and WWM will pay for it... I'll offer my image work free for your use... Help you sell this work to/through the pulp press. RMF>>

 Brandon... did you move the file to the "Emails with Images"? Nope... lost

Balanophyllia Reproduction   1/19/07 Probably a dumb question - but if I start out with one single polyp of Balanophyllia, will it eventually produce baby polyps? <Mmm, this Dendrophylliid can produce such asexually, yes...>   I read they were "singular" in nature and couldn't find out much about their reproduction.   Thanks,   Doug <See/search with the correction of your spelling above. Bob Fenner>

One more Balanophyllia question   1/19/07 I forgot to ask this before.  Would the Giant Balanophyllia eat reef fish (polyps are about 3")? <Can, but unlikely... Most fish species are aware of the possibility and avoid...> Also curious about the larger Dendrophyllia - same question.  We are thinking of getting one but have mandarins and clownfish that have become family pets.    <Again, not a likely issue... there are some Corallimorphs, other families of Scleractinians where there is much more potential...>   Thanks in advance!  You have always been a fantastic source of information!!!   Doug <Thank you. Bob Fenner> SUN POLYP GODDESS - 06/06/2006 Hi, I read the articles FAQ and u mention that u live near the Goddess. I would like to find out more about her tank < Know problem, best to email her directly > Setup / filter / skimmer / nutrient control Size of her tank/ Feeding In fact if I could would like to see it myself but I have over in theAsia. Do u have pic of her tank or does she has a website homepage < Here are links to her sites http://home.earthlink.net/~rapplegart/ and also http://web.mac.com/suzynrob/iWeb/SaltwaterPlanted/LiveFeed.com.html > thing that can quench my thirst on this biotope, setup and husbandry < I believe you can email her at rapplegart@earthlink.net.  Be sure to tell her Adam sent you. > Thanks < No problem> Steven <Blundell> Cup coral  9/30/05 I bought a Turbinaria (cup coral). It was polyped in the store. I acclimated it about 45 minutes. My lighting is 65x2 power compact.<Another instance where little research has been done before buying.  Your lighting is no where near the wattage required for keeping this coral alive.  Five to six watts per gallon is suggested (250-300watts for 50 gallon tank)> I have a 50 gal system II RTR that pumps about 400 gph + a Seio 620 on it, and has almost direct current hitting it.<We want good water flow but not directly at the coral.  One reason it probably isn't opening.> It has been in my tank for four days and has not polyped yet. The other day it secreted a stringy stuff I blew off it. It still has a velvety look and an iridescent greenish hue. The "pores" look as though the polyps are tucked in there. It's about 3 inches from a frogspawn, but it up current from it. Question is how long can a coral stay in without feeding? is this normal?<Not normal, and most corals do produce most of their own food with proper lighting provided polyps are open.> All my experiences has been w/ LPS and they open within hours. Water parameters. ammonia, nitrite zero, nitrate <10 ppm. dKH bout 8-9(little low, but the other corals are unaffected) calcium about 500 ppm. ph 8.2 . <Frank, with all due respect, future queries should be spell checked, grammar checked and capitalize where necessary.  It takes three or four extra minutes to correct these items as they need to be edited before posting.  James (Salty Dog)> Frank Crone

Turbinaria peltata Dear Bob and Crew, <Keep waiting for one of our reef-types to chime in... hello!> I need assistance please. I have had a Turbinaria peltata in my 50 gallon tank since August of 04. I have noticed in the last couple of month some of the tissue starting to recede.  Parameters are as follows: 50 Gallon Flat Back Hex Ammonia - 0, Nitrate - 0, Nitrite - 0, Phosphate - 0. Calcium 300/350 - Alk High on my Red Sea Test Kit <High?> Approximately 125 lb Texas Holey Rock almost completely covered with Coralline Algae. <... some of this rock is unsuitable for marine aquarium use> 1 - Yellow Tang approximately 3.5 inches long. 1 - Coral Beauty approximately 3.0 inches long. 1 - Lawnmower Blenny approximately 3.0 inches long. Assortment of Mushrooms and Button Polyps. I have a 300 gal/hr powerhead on lower right corner.  I have a HOT Magnum 200 gal/hr in the middle upper right side. Emperor 400 on the left side just behind the T. peltata.  I set a container of Kalk on top of this and drip it through the perforations in the top of this unit for make-up water. Could this be a problem? <Mmm, don't think so...> Lighting was 100 watts of 20K NO Light. I upgraded to Coralife 260 Watt Unit consisting of 130 watts of 10K and 130 watts of Actinics. This unit was purchased this past weekend. You can see from the picture that the coral is only 4" from the light source. <Yes> I target feed this coral with a combination of Mysis shrimp, Ocean Nutrition two to three times per week. It readily accepts what I feed it. I also dose 30 ml of DT's per week. This is mainly for my feather duster and gorgonian. Your thoughts please, I don't want to lose this coral. Thanks Dean <Likely the animal/colony is just adjusting to the new lighting... but am concerned re the "high" alkalinity... Put yourself in our place here... how high is high?... you don't want any more than 12-15 dKH... I would be checking the holey rock as a source of excess alkalinity... and either moving deeper light sensitive life when switching to more intense lighting, or partially shielding the lamps for a few weeks... when they're new or replaced. Bob Fenner> 

Quick coral ID 8/6/05 Greetings Bob & Crew! <<Hello Ray. Ted on this end>> Sent this one off about 2 weeks ago and still  no response.  Lost in cyberspace? <<Sorry>> Anyway, found this little guy growing on a small LR frag.  Thought it was just coralline when I got it but it looks like coral as it is growing.  It has very thin clear-white filaments that come out of the ends during the day and at night (from what I can see). No idea what it is.  I've done searches and nothing looks familiar.  Perhaps some sort of SPS?  I've also had sun coral suggested, but does not look right to me. It's currently near the top of a rock pile, under MH lighting and seems to be doing fine after a few weeks. <<Identifying corals from pictures is difficult. Having said that, I am going to take a stab at this and suggest it may be Tubastrea coccinea (Orange Cup Coral). See http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm.>> Thanks!
<<Your welcome - Ted>>

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