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FAQs about Dendrophylliid Coral Selection
Related Articles: Dendrophylliid
Corals, Related FAQs:
Dendrophylliids 1, Dendrophylliids 2,
Dendrophylliid Identification,
Dendrophylliid Behavior,
Dendrophylliid Compatibility,
Dendrophylliid Systems,
Dendrophylliid Feeding,
Dendrophylliid Disease,
Dendrophylliid Reproduction, Stony/True
Coral, Coral System Set-Up,
Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection,
Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, Do consider
other possible Corallivorous predaceous organisms... | .JPG)
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Coral ID 1/8/09 Hi Bob, <Hello Beta. Minh
at your service.> I have attached a pic of the coral that I need
an ID on. I don't much have info on the specimen as the pic was sent
to me by a friend. <I assume you are referring to the brilliantly
colored yellow encrusting hard coral in the right center of the
photograph, correct? At first glance, one could pass this coral to
be Porites sp. (perhaps Porites cylindrica). However, upon closer
inspection, the polyp size and extension in comparison to the
Turbinaria peltata on the lower left indicates another coral from
the genus Goniopora in the Poritidae family. The size and extension
of the polyps as well as the growth form of this particular specimen
resembles Goniopora stutchburyi. However, the coloration of this
specimen does not appear to be natural and I'm afraid it could have
been dyed. Unfortunately, I have seen similar corals often imported
to our local fish stores in the states. More information about dyed
corals including a photo of a close matching specimen can be found
here: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-09/eb/index.php.
Also, more information about care of Goniopora stutchburyi can be
found in detail here:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2/. I have been
researching Goniopora care for a few years now, so feel free to
write back with more information on identification or care of this
genus.> Regards Beta India <Good luck. Cheers, Minh
Huynh.> |  |
Dyed Cup Coral? - 04/07/07 Hi gang, <Hi Chuck.> My
usually-very-good LFS just brought in two VERY yellow cup corals. . .
<Mmm...if Turbinaria peltata then it almost certainly dyed, however it
could be Turbinaria reniformis which, unlike T. Peltata can exhibit
such color. T. Peltata however is unfortunately dyed yellow very often.>
with color hue/chroma/intensity very similar to that displayed by my
healthy yellow tang. <If it's that bright then I'd say the chances
of foul-play may be growing.> What makes me somewhat suspicious --
besides the relative intensity of the color -- is that that 'skeletal'
portion also displays the uniform bright yellow color, even with the
polyps retracted. . . <Could be a recent...and thorough dye job, if
is in fact dyed.> whereas the picture of a yellow I'd seen here on
WWM seemed to indicate bright yellow polyps on a close-to-brown
skeleton. <Depends on the exact species...but if dyed recently then
the animal would be yellow all over.> Is it likely these corals
HAVEN'T been dyed? <Mmm it's not possible to give you a 100% firm
answer, but from what you have told me I would assume it is dyed.>
I'd love to think they were real. . . <That's how "they" reel you
in...> Chuck <Adam J.> Tubastrea micracantha –
03/17/07 What's up everyone?, <<Hello>> Brandon here,
<<Eric here>> I was wondering, have any of you ever come across
Tubastraea micracantha? <<Only on the Internet>> I cannot find
it in a store to save my life. <<I don’t think it is a widely
available>> As of recent, I have apparently been Tubastraea farming.
<<Beautiful organisms>> So I was thinking, perhaps something other
than yellow/orange might be kind of cool. <<Indeed…though T.
micracantha is reportedly very difficult to sustain>> I have seen
various images of this so called Black Sun Coral before I ever bought
regular Tubastraea. So I got to asking, and I found out that I could
have it ordered. <<Yes, would imagine your LFS could find/get it for
you…or you could order it off the Net>> The thing is, that the
person that can do this told me quote, "There is no way that you will
ever be able to get it to survive." <<That does seem to be the
general consensus…though I do seem to remember an individual from a few
years back who reportedly had good success by removing the colony from
her tank and placing in a bowl to feed, ensuring “each” individual polyp
received “adequate” quantities of vitamin-fortified
foodstuffs…definitely a high-maintenance animal>> The same person
that told me that Aiptasia is actually a rock anemone. <<Hmm,
possibly just a subjective “common” description…but I get what you
mean>> Needless to say I am a bit skeptical. <<I see>>
Anyone know why it has such a bad reputation, and perhaps why it is "so
hard to keep alive"? <<From what I have read, I gather the water
flow and nutritive requirements are higher (or maybe just different/not
well understood) for T. micracantha than for the other Tubastraea
species…or maybe the species is too sensitive to collection/handling for
captive keeping>> Further than that is anyone keeping it
currently? If so what's the secret? <<You might try posting these
last two questions on the reef message boards>> I am going to give
it a go any way, perhaps I will discover something. <<Do
share with us/let us know how things fare>> Thanks everyone,
Brandon <<Regards, EricR>> Re: coral advice... comp. f'?
3/21/07 Thanks Brandon, for the quick and detailed response.
<No problem.> After reading your reply and researching further, I
have come to the conclusion that this is not the right coral for me, or
rather; I am not the right keeper for this coral. <Sorry to hear
that. They can be quite rewarding.> But after more consideration, I
think I would prefer to spend some time to try to get this animal
healthy, and sell or trade it to another enthusiast who WILL make an
appropriate keeper. <There are quite a few.> If I just it back
to the LFS they will likely just throw it back in with their semi-cured
Live rock. <Not uncommon.> Now, unless another person spots it
AND recognizes it AND is willing to make the effort to properly maintain
it, this would be basically like throwing it away. That just would
not feel right. <Agreed.> Here is what I am considering: I have
a 2.5 gallon HEX tank with UG filter and lights. I would like to set up
a solitaire habitat for this coral, and spend the next few weeks giving
the daily or bi-daily feedings it requires. I would like to use the
2.5 gallon for this, but will never find a skimmer that would fit. I do
think that it would be easy enough to change 25 to 50 percent of the
water two to three times weekly. For filtration, I would be using an air
driven UG plate with a bio-pad from my existing filer placed underneath
and cover it with crushed coral. I have small submersible 50w heater
that will fit in the tank as well. This Sun Coral would be the only
organism in this tank and it will be a temporary situation. <Hmmmm.>
Does this sound like something that might work? <I think that it
would be easier on you and the coral alike to try something a little
different. Get a deep bowl and place the coral in it. When you want to
feed it all you have to do is remove the bowl (water still inside), and
feed it that way. The left over food can be discarded, and you can then
place the bowl with the coral in it, back into the tank. This method
was proposed to me when I was inquiring about keeping Tubastrea
Micracantha. Brandon.>
Green Tubastraea sp. Captive Care of
Tubastraea micrantha 2/4/07 Hello All!
<Greetings! Mich here.> Recently, after some extensive research I
have decided to purchase a nice piece of Sun Coral. My hesitation was
due to the fact that each polyp needed to be fed quite regularly.
<Regular feeding is imperative.> I began shopping for a Sun Coral
recently and came across a dark green one! I have never seen one or even
heard of it in such a color. I purchased it after taking the advise of
the LFS's manager that it was no different than the other Sun Corals. My
question basically is, was he right? <Not so much. It is in the same
genus, but the species is different. It sounds like you have Tubastraea
micrantha. It could possibly be Tubastraea diaphana, but I will assume
it is the former. More info here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm This coral has a
notoriously poor survival record and requires a very fast current and
large amounts of food. I do hope you have a great protein skimmer.>
I have tried researching on the Internet and yes, WetWebMedia.com and
was not able to find any one mention a Sun Coral of this color,
although, there was a website with professional photography of reefs
around the world showing a green Sun Coral similar to mines, but no
mention of it otherwise. The coral came with some smaller
YELLOW polyps beginning to grow around it. I will be feeding this coral
at least three times a week or can I cut down on the feedings.
<Should be fed daily.> I culture my own phytoplankton and add about
one full plastic cup a day, 1/2 in the morning and 1/2 at night, can
this substitute the feedings? <Malnutrition is the biggest challenge
these corals face in captivity, daily targeted feedings with mysids,
diced fish, and zooplankton soaked in Selcon would be most appropriate.>
In addition, I have been getting conflicting information on where I
can place the coral, in caves, dark areas, or in a lighted area?
<Where it can be most easily fed without getting so much light that it
get overgrown with algae.> I would have liked to place the coral
higher up in my 24" tall 90 gallon tank where water flow is more
abundant, only problem is, I'm afraid the 150w halides may burn the
coral? <Shouldn't burn it. I'd be more concerned about water flow
and feedings.> Just so you know, I have an LPS dominant tank, 90
gallons with a 50 gallons tank used as a refuge with Caulerpas and
Chaetomorpha. Thank you for any advice you can provide. <Hope
you're up for a challenge my friend! -Mich> Dyed yellow
Turbinaria 2/26/03 Greetings to the crew. Your site has helped
me so much I can never repay you enough except to say that my 55g reef
is doing well now and will buy all your books (not a plug) in the
future. <thanks kindly <G>> I did make the mistake of purchasing a
yellow Turbinaria p. From your site I now know this animal has probably
been dyed. <not too bad... it is on of the few corals that can
survive dying because you can feed it (and must)> The LFS of course
told me it was a rare specimen and at 25% off I would kick myself if
I didn't buy it. <wow... that clerk was a real scumbag> Now I am
kicking myself right in the.... Anyway the specimen looks mostly a pale
brown color except for the extended polyps that are bright yellow. My
question; the polyps extend every day and they seem to be accepting food
<excellent! that's most of the battle> (I use a blender to mix krill
and phytoplankton then turkey baste). I noticed today a small, about
1/2' round area on the very edge of the animal that is turning red.
<I have seen some specimens issue a red/burgundy growth edge instead of
a doughy pale colored one> Any thoughts on what this might be and
what measures I should take? <if the tissue doe not look necrotic,
it may be natural. Do send a picture if you can> There are no other
bothersome fish or animals in the tank. Water checks out great,
skimmate daily, some iodine and calcium added weekly. PH 8.4, calc 475,
sg 1.024, etc.... Any help would be appreciated. <keep strong
turbulent (not linear) water flow over this specimen too for optimal
polyp extension. Anthony> Coral ID and Reef Husbandry 1/23/05
Dear Bob and Crew, <howdy!> My name is Dean and I am an aquaholic.
<I like to drink water too... every day. No worries> I have what my
LFS identifies as a cup coral in my 55 gallon Tank. <yep...
Turbinaria peltata. A very hardy coral that favors feeding small meaty
foods like mysids once weekly for starters> It is some type of
plating coral. I watched this coral for several weeks at the LFS before
I purchased it. I feel confident that if it could survive in their
tanks, then it would survive in mine. <This Turbinaria is an
excellent starter coral indeed.> I have extensively researched your
site and to no avail at an accurate identity. Would you please review
the attached picture for me. I have this coral at the top of my tank. It
is approximately four inches from the top of the water and the lights
are sitting directly on the cover glass. <moderate to strong
turbulent water flow is the key with this species> It is probably six
inches from the light source. This coral has been in my tank since
August 2004 and I did quarantine it for four weeks... <excellent to
hear! Thank you> ...before introducing it to my display tank. When
you look down at this coral from the top, it appears that some of the
tissue is receding. <not uncommon... a bit of damage or lack of
feeding over time. Resume good water quality and feeding and it will
heal fast> But if you look closely at the picture along the lower
edges, you can see a new row of polyps starting to grow and the tissue
is spreading on the non-light portions of the rock. What are your
thoughts? <I like natural vanilla (bean) ice-cream... thanks for
asking> Tank Parameters: 55 Gallon Oceanic Flat Back Hex Tank. It
has been in operation for two years. Lighting consists of two 40 watt
20K Coral Life bulbs. <change these every 6-10 months for best coral
health> Penguin 400 filter. HOT Magnum Canister Filter. DIY
Downdraft Protein Skimmer. About one cup of tea color skimmate every
one/two days. <good start... do dry smaller bubbles or a lower active
foam/water interface in the skimmer neck to be able to collect
darker/more dense skimmate> 20 percent water change per month. 150
pounds of base rock mostly covered with pink coralline algae. Plenum
with three inches of aragonite on top. Several Yuma Ricordea
Mushrooms. One Ptergogorgia guadalupensis. One three inch Coral
Beauty. One Four inch Yellow Tang. One four inch Lawn Mower
Blenny. One Coral Banded Shrimp. Too many button polyps and sun
polyps to count. Started with only one sun polyp and four button polyps
free from the LFS. Ammonia has always tested "0". Nitrite has
always tested "0". Nitrate "0" to only a trace. Calcium normally
runs 350. pH is normally 8.2/8.3 during the day. I did test it early
one morning this weekend, before the lights came on, and it tested about
8.0. <do raise this to 8.3 minimum> Alkalinity test normal to high
with a Red Sea pH/Alkalinity test kit. I drip Kalkwasser for the make-up
water. I currently have a small trumpet coral in my quarantine tank to
be moved to my display tank next week. Could you recommend a location
after reviewing the full view if my tank. I really enjoyed the CMA. I
have read it several times from cover to cover. I also have a copy of
your Reef Invertebrates in the mail for my birthday. Your help would be
appreciated. Thanks Dean <best of luck and life to you my friend.
Anthony> |
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