My Green Pagoda Coral Isn’t “Green” – 07/09/07
I bought a green pagoda from a LFS but it was all cream colored.
<<The “cream” color in not uncommon for this Turbinaria species>>
The salesperson told me the color would come back to green with yellow polyps but it has not. Is there anything I can do to get it to color up or is it lost forever?
<<If this specimen was indeed “green” to begin with, the color change may be due to collection/transport stresses, a reaction to the change in intensity and quality of lighting from its collection point...or just the difference in water chemistry/environmental conditions period. It’s hard to say if the color change is permanent...provide the coral with optimum conditions and time will tell. EricR>>
Thanks.

Black Spot On Sun Coral (Tubastraea), no useful data 6/22/07
Hi. I have a sun coral that I bought approximately 6 weeks ago. Today, I noticed that there is a small (approx 2mm in diameter), circular black spot on one of the larger cups. Otherwise, the coral seems happy and healthy, and none of the other cups (or corals in the tank) appear to be affected. I would be very grateful if you could advise me as to whether this is something to worry about - and, if so, what steps I could take to ameliorate the problem. Thanks very much in advance. Lindsey.
<Mmm, could be of concern... no useful info. re the set-up, maint., water quality tests... you are making sure each polyp is getting fed? Is this specimen near more strongly stinging, more noxiously exudating species? Have you read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrodisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

Re: Black Spot On Sun Coral (Tubastraea)  6/23/07
Hi Bob: Thank you for your response! My tank is very new (about 3 months) and is 55 gallons. I have a protein skimmer and trickle filtration. My ammonia tests at nil, phosphates undetectable, alkalinity at 12.8 (I know that's on the high end, but my PH is 8.2, so that's not a problem, right?),
<No, not likely>
calcium is 360, salinity at 1.025. There is a frogspawn coral to the right of the sun coral -
<... trouble>
I thought there was enough separation between the two,
<Needs to be a foot or more... and even then, chemically...>
but the affected cup is on the left hand side - which is closest to the frogspawn - and is, as I mentioned, one of the larger cups and would definitely reach in that direction when fully extended so perhaps it has been stung?
<Yes>
I checked again this morning and the spot has not enlarged at all and is still affecting that specific cup only, so I have moved the frogspawn over to the right a little. I do feed each cup at least 5 times a week with Mysis shrimp.
<Good>
The other occupants of the tank (aside from corals) are: 2 anthias, one clown tang (small),
<Needs more room...>
cleaner shrimp, fire shrimp and 2 clowns. If you have any other suggestions I would really appreciate them as I am just starting out in this hobby and I love your site! Thanks again, Lindsey.
<Mmm, do see WWM re the Tubastraea and Euphyllia... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm
Bob Fenner>
 

Cup coral tissue loss and bleaching   5/22/07 Hi, <John> I took a normal inspection of the tank occupants on Saturday morning and noticed that my pagoda cup coral (Turbinaria) had a large area of white/ bleached tissue accompanied by some tissue loss in that area, in which I saw tissue flaking off and exposed skeleton. I examined it again today to find that the area of tissue loss is expanding in that area. Also the polyps in this bleached area are shrunken, white, and look sickly. <Mmm, looks like an "impact zone" injury...>     There are no sweeper tentacles around that could affect this coral. The display tank has a volume of 30 gallons, and the sump holds 10 gallons. Bio filtration is accomplished with a wet dry filter, Bak pak skimmer, and # 30 live rock. Reef crystals salt is used and reverse osmosis/ deionized water is always used. water circulation is provided by 3 maxi jet 1200 powerheads. The affected coral is in nice flow and the lighting is 130 watt 50/50 power compacts. nitrate readings are under 5. Nothing has changed up to this point and all other corals are doing fine. I am very concerned as this is a nice piece which I have had for two years in this system without any problems. I have attached a photo of the affected area. Thanks for your help. <Does look to me like something "dropped onto" this area... do you dose something that may have centered itself about in such a pattern? Bob Fenner>

Re: Cup coral tissue loss and bleaching   5/22/07 Thanks so much for the reply Bob. I do not dose anything to the tank.  However, When I noticed this problem in the coral, I added a normal dosage of Kent coral vital general supplement. <Mmm... I would "test" this by applying a bit more to another area of this coral... I am not a fan of such "general" tonics...> to the sump. So the root of the problem does not lie with dosing to my knowledge. The only thing I can think of is maybe salt creep that fell into the water landed onto this coral, which seems unlikely, but still possible. <Yes... and a rather common cause of such "burns"> Today, the area of tissue loss /exposed skeleton has increased slightly. The tissue necrosis is moving toward the bleached area, not onto healthy colorful tissue, which is good (I hope!) <Yes... and again, indicative of some "one-time" impact...> I don't know if I should take any action. I am going to change the water now and Ill make sure no crud builds up and the infected area stays clean in the mean time. Thanks for the help Bob. <I agree with your cautious approach... I would do nothing overt here. Cheers, BobF>

Re: Cup coral tissue loss and bleaching   5/22/07 Hi again Bob and again you don't know how much I appreciate your help. <Welcome> People on the forums are telling me to cut the entire side of this coral off with a power saw....... What do you think of this? <I would NOT do this... too extreme at this venture... have seen much worse damaged Dendrophylliids make full recoveries...> I will do nothing at this point but at what point would you think it would be necessary to take action? <Do take a read re the family on WWM... RMF>

Orange Sun Coral - 03/23/07
Hi!
<<Hello!>>
I recently acquired an orange Sun Coral which the LFS near my home had not been having too much luck with.
<<Not unusual...generally requires special attention/some direct feeding to prosper>>
I placed it in a tunnel out of direct light and offered it food (live baby brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, Microvert, Marine Snow etc.) every evening after the lights were off.
<<The variety of food is good (though feeding well every 2-3 days may be enough), but placing out of direct light is not always necessary.  Tubastrea species are sometimes found on the "lighted" side of the reef (I have two colonies exposed to direct lighting), though Dendrophylliid species are most often in "shaded" positions.  What is most important is that these corals receive very good water flow>>
It did appear to be eating.  Here is my problem and resultant question.  About 3 days ago I noticed that the majority of the polyps had been covered with orange colored "bubbles" causing the Tubastrea to resemble Bubble Coral.
<<Mmm, haven't ever witnessed this...but doesn't sound good to me>>
The few remaining normal appearing polyps traveled off its original rock and have attached themselves to the side of the tunnel.
<<Ahh...what you may have is a Dendrophyllia species and not a Tubastrea species.  In my experience, Tubastrea have connective tissue between the polyps that would prevent individual polyps from "relocating"...Dendrophyllia, again in my experience, does not have this connective tissue and looks like a bunch of polyps "glued" to a rock.  Admittedly these are subjective observations and an examination of the coral's skeleton is likely required for a positive ID>>
What are the "bubbles" on the once beautifully tentacled Sun Coral?
<<Hmm...possibly a bacterial infection or encroachment of Cyanobacteria.  Difficult to say really, but very likely a symptom of its environment.  Or maybe it was just "too far gone" when you acquired it>>
Any assistance/information you can give me will be greatly appreciated as I am truly in a quandary about this.
<<Do ensure the coral is receiving plenty of vigorous water flow.  If this doesn't clear up the "bubbles", you may want to consider a mild iodine dip/bath, but some corals may not respond well to these...do read here and among the associated links:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm>>
Many thanks,
Gigi
<<Happy to share, EricR>>
 

Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea   12/16/06 Hi guys and gals! <Hello there Lisa, Mich here.> Once again, thank you for taking the time to review and respond to my question.  I always appreciate it. <You are quite welcome.  The pleasure is mine.> I've had this coral for about a month now.  I was told it was a fire coral.   <Mmm, nope.> But it doesn't look like any of the fire corals I've seen, and it doesn't seem to sting. <Mmm, because it's not.> I'm also not sure it's doing well.   <Doesn't look real happy.> It doesn't seem to change much but I've noticed one of the corals seems to be receding.   <Yes, that appears to be the case.> Since I can't really identify it, I'm not sure of it's flow, lighting and feeding needs. <Best to educate yourself before assuming responsibility for any living creature.>   I'm hoping you experts will know and will tell me what I need to do. <This is a coral in the genus Tubastraea, commonly called a sun coral.  It is non-photosynthetic, meaning that it cannot get any of its' energy requirements from the sun or artificial lighting.  Kind of ironic that it is called a sun coral.  It must be feed regularly by it's caretaker.  Mysid shrimp soaked in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon would be ideal.  The feeding should be done after the tank lights go off.  It may take several days of attempted feedings before the polyps open, especially in this situation where there is this much tissue recession.  Eventually it will automatically extend its' polyps when the lights go out in anticipation of its' next meal.  It should be placed in an area where it receives good water flow.  It can be placed in a well lit area, but doesn't need to be as long as the water flow is   decent.  It is a beautiful coral, but will need some dedication on your part to bring it back to health. Thanks, <You're welcome. -Mich> Lisa

Re: Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea   12/16/06 Hi again THANK YOU SO MUCH for your reply. <Hello Lisa, Mich here again.  You are quite welcome.> If this coral does not depend on the light, I assume it's location in the tank (currently high up nearer to the light) is <not?> as important? <This coral will not benefit or be harmed by any light it receives.  It does require good water movement.> Can this coral be placed on the substrate?   <Certainly.> Do I need to use a dome to feed it? <No.  Turn off you circulation and use a turkey baster to gently blow the Mysid over the polyps, with time, the polyps will open and a Pavlovian conditioned response should develop, especially if you do this consistently after lights go out.>     Thanks again, <Welcome -Mich> Lisa Your edification:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm

Coral polyp anomaly?    6/14/06 Saw this picture but I can't find the related article.  Had this happen to my coral but it went away weeks later and is doing fine since. <Looks to be an enlarged polyp in your Turbinaria... happens... irritation of some sort.... a mechanism for expulsion. Bob Fenner> Nicholas Parenti

Purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis)  - 04/27/06
Hi Bob/ Staff
I got a huge cup coral today with a purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis).
<... have never seen a Turbinaria with such a color skeleton... are brownish to yellowish with light green highlight. Your might have been dyed>
Info on these babies are pretty scarce/ am suspecting there not to popular. But anyway, It is  producing a huge amount of  slime and the polyps are closed. Why is it producing and excreting such large amounts of slime.
<From handling, being moved, reaction to other cnidarians?>
2nd, The white polyps are closed, do they only open @ certain times?
<Yes... when the animal/colony is established, healthy, feeding. Please see WWM re Dendrophylliids. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your time.
John

Re: Purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis)  4/27/06
thanks for the reply Bob.
<Bob is at a conference, Jen S. here.>
I must have spoken too soon because the coral opened up beautifully today.
<Wonderful!>
And I was a bit inaccurate with the description of its coloration, its actually a yellowish bluish green. Anyway, I tested Nitrates today and they were about 25 PPM.
<Too high>
Is this a dangerous for the cup coral or my yellow polyps?
<Absolutely.  Do a 20% water change, clean up any detritus, replace filter media, clean skimmer… so on.>
I will look on WWM in the mean time to find ways to lower the nitrates. Thanks again,
<Good deal.  Have a great night, Jen S.>
Mr. John

Re: Purple/ blue skeleton (Turbinaria reniformis)   4/30/06
to Jen S.
I did a big water change and reduced them to about 10 - 15 mg/ l. can I repeat  water changes tomorrow to lower them more? thanks
<I wouldn't change too much too quickly.  Every other day would be good.  Jen S.>
 

Turbinaria peltata Dear Bob and Crew, <Keep waiting for one of our reef-types to chime in... hello!> I need assistance please. I have had a Turbinaria peltata in my 50 gallon tank since August of 04. I have noticed in the last couple of month some of the tissue starting to recede.  Parameters are as follows: 50 Gallon Flat Back Hex Ammonia - 0, Nitrate - 0, Nitrite - 0, Phosphate - 0. Calcium 300/350 - Alk High on my Red Sea Test Kit <High?> Approximately 125 lb Texas Holey Rock almost completely covered with Coralline Algae. <... some of this rock is unsuitable for marine aquarium use> 1 - Yellow Tang approximately 3.5 inches long. 1 - Coral Beauty approximately 3.0 inches long. 1 - Lawnmower Blenny approximately 3.0 inches long. Assortment of Mushrooms and Button Polyps. I have a 300 gal/hr powerhead on lower right corner.  I have a HOT Magnum 200 gal/hr in the middle upper right side. Emperor 400 on the left side just behind the T. peltata.  I set a container of Kalk on top of this and drip it through the perforations in the top of this unit for make-up water. Could this be a problem? <Mmm, don't think so...> Lighting was 100 watts of 20K NO Light. I upgraded to Coralife 260 Watt Unit consisting of 130 watts of 10K and 130 watts of Actinics. This unit was purchased this past weekend. You can see from the picture that the coral is only 4" from the light source. <Yes> I target feed this coral with a combination of Mysis shrimp, Ocean Nutrition two to three times per week. It readily accepts what I feed it. I also dose 30 ml of DT's per week. This is mainly for my feather duster and gorgonian. Your thoughts please, I don't want to lose this coral. Thanks Dean <Likely the animal/colony is just adjusting to the new lighting... but am concerned re the "high" alkalinity... Put yourself in our place here... how high is high?... you don't want any more than 12-15 dKH... I would be checking the holey rock as a source of excess alkalinity... and either moving deeper light sensitive life when switching to more intense lighting, or partially shielding the lamps for a few weeks... when they're new or replaced. Bob Fenner>

Turbinaria "Cup Coral"
Dear Bob:
Happy holidays to you and your family.
<And to you and yours>
I have e-mailed you within the last few months regarding my 92 gallon reef
tank that has had a horrible hair algae problem. You indicated that my tank
was probably "off center" and to be patient, maybe introducing a Lawnmower
Blenny or Tang. I have not introduced any of these new fish yet, but I did
recently convert my sand bed to a deep sand bed (brushed all rock in a
separate container during this process). I also performed about a 25% water
change during this changeover. Everything looks great now, and I hope this
will persist.
<Ah, good>
My question to you now regards my Turbinaria cup coral. During the last few
months when my tank was creating the hair algae disaster, this coral stopped
extending it's polyps. The coral was not dead, as on a couple of occasions
it did spew out some black film. Since I had this coral high up in my VHO
lit tank and did replace my lamps around the time the polyps stopped
extending, I thought it may be unhappy due to the light intensity change
instead of water chemistry.
<Both... perhaps more of the latter>
When I performed by sand bed change a week ago,
I decided to place this coral more in the middle of the tank. However,
still, the polyps do not extend (not even at night).
Since the polyps have now not extended for about 3 months, do you think it
is dead? Do you think there is any hope? The coral has not changed color.
<You will know, by sight, smell if/when this animal has perished... do try feeding it. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
the FAQs beyond. Bob Fenner>
Thank you.
John Rowe

Re: Turbinaria "Cup Coral"
Thanks, Bob. I should have read your section before e-mailing.
<Do wish there was a scheme for more easily making WWM available, accessible>
I have the Turbinaria peltata coral, and I'll try the feeding recommendation.
I do feed the tank with live phytoplankton, but apparently this is not
enough. Unfortunately, my LFS did not inform me of the need to feed.
<Ah>
Thanks again.
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
John

Re: help me cup coral  10/3/05
All apologies, this was typed up real fast on my way to our weekend house. I have a 12 gallon Nano cube pushing about 5 watts per gal. Would it be better suited in there? <Be better than where it was.  Problem with keeping SPS's in small systems is that water parameters can change too fast.> When I returned on Sunday, the polyps were closer to coming out. I originally went to the LFS for a Monti cap but was steered toward the cup coral because of the lighting, but we know how that goes. <Your 5 watts/gallon needs to have some actinic light if you don't already have it.  James (Salty Dog)>

Cup coral  10/3/05
It does have actinics. Should I transfer it now while it still isn't open? Or is it too stressful to do that? <Can't get any worse than what it is.  Try it.  Keep in mind that these corals are not the easiest in the world to keep.  Have you been adding iodine, strontium, etc to the tank and doing weekly 10% water changes?  James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Cup coral  10/4/05
I know that now but...yes I keep up w/ the water changes. There isn't anything in that tank but a hammer coral, a few zoo's and a few Ricordea. If I have to I can upgrade the lights to a 96x2 watt. Still not what your suggesting but better. I was told the "watts per gal." rule didn't apply because power compacts were far better than fluorescents just like MH are to PC and thus cannot be compared. <The watts/gallon is a starting point keeping in mind that too much light is certainly not detrimental.  You have to understand also that yes, the PC's have more light output, but the watts/gallon guideline is based on VHO/HQI/MH/PC.  The depth of the tank would be a factor in deciding if more or less light is needed.  James (Salty Dog)>

Turbinaria
Mr. Fenner
My Turbinaria (peltata?) don't open the polyps. After one or two weeks in my aquarium in the upper part under a powerhead the coral don't show signs of stay alive. Do you have some advice? Thanks, Nelson 
<Hmm, a few possibilities here. Please read through our coverage of the family: http://wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
the associated FAQs page,
The large polyp stony corals, stony corals, and associated FAQs pages... and we'll chat further. Bob Fenner>

Turbinaria problem
I have a cup coral that stated to lose some of its polyps in one area.
In their place is a hole with two slender antennae protruding. It's
happened over the course of a week and started with one and now has 9 or
so missing. Most of the empty holes show antennae. I 've checked at
night with a flashlight but have never seen any worms on the coral
head. Any ideas or suggestions? It's a lovely piece and I don't want
to lose it.
Many thanks-- Dean Decker
<Hmm, you might not have much choice here... does sound like some marauding species of boring (as in drilling, not yawning) of polychaete worm (maybe with some accomplices) have taken up residence in your Dendrophylliid... I would just "hand on and hope" at this point... Very unlikely that a predator (like a Pseudocheilinus sp. Wrasse) would/could clear them out... this or a Stenopid, Palaemonid shrimp might help though... worth a try. Please read: http://wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/bristlewrmfaqs.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/shrimp.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/pseudocheilinus.htm
Bob Fenner>

TURBINARIA DAMAGE???
Hey Bob,
Just purchased a yellow Turbinaria the other day and my wall hammer welcomed it with a long sweeper tentacle. Well a few days later after moving the hammer well out of reach (unbelievable what a reach it has) I am noticing a small grey black decaying patch on my Turbinaria. Question is what to do remove damage via exacto knife or leave it alone??? Thanks again Rob Huss
<Hmm, I would leave this colony be at this point... generally will regenerate. Bob Fenner>

Help - Cup coral
1st of all, this is the best BB I have ever encountered. Your help is priceless. Now that the smooching is over, let me get to the problem at hand. I have a cup coral (Turbinaria peltata...I think...maybe pagoda) I enclosed a picture just in case. I have had it for a year, but recently, it is having troubles. The polyps do not extend at all. It was doing fine under a 55 watt PC. Now, that I have added an additional 55w Actinic, is hasn't opened. I do not recall if the light addition & polyp shyness happened at the same time or not. Regardless, it has been 1-2 months, and still no change. I am afraid that I might lose my favorite coral. I must add, that throughout the 1st year, I did not add a supplement to the tank such as Coralvite, Essential Elements, etc. I merely fed the coral just as I fed my 2 clowns. Nitrates, Nitrites, PH, all good. Calcium a little low. Should I of added Strontium? Please tell me the appropriate manner in which to care for these corals, as I am afraid that I have failed.
<It appears that you doubled your lighting and shocked your coral. This is a very unnatural thing to occur, but you are lucky because Turbinarias are very resilient. Since you only gave general references to water quality, here is what your coral needs; a pH above 8.2, Calcium above 400 ppm, fed 2-3 times per week with something small like Sweetwater Zooplankton or Mysis Shrimp, and it may benefit from some iodine. I do not use or recommend most of the magical elixirs for reef tanks. I follow the Fennerism, if you cannot test for it, do not dose for it. -Steven Pro>

Fading pagoda
I have a yellow pagoda coral, sorry no pic.
<There are two main types of "pagoda" coral: Turbinaria reniformis and t. peltata. T. reniformis is commonly yellow in color, has a thin but dense skeleton, and grows in a turbinate form (whorling plates). T. peltata usually only forms a single cup shape but can also have a few "whorls". The skeleton is thicker than that of the former and has big bushy polyps. T. peltata does not have a yellow color morph, so if you have this species, it's most definitely dyed.>
I have a it about a week or so. all my levels are right where there supposed to be. its at mid tank in my  55g.
I have a HQ1 150Wx1 MH. its seems to be fading fast on one side of it. doesn't seem to be dyed, the other side of it
is keeping its vivid color.
<Sounds like the halide is bleaching it. Put it off to the side in low, indirect light for now until it regains it's color. Only then should you try to begin the slow process of acclimating it to your lighting>
it does have die off on the outer edges of it though, from when I bought it.
any info would be great on what you  would try in this situation.
<Eh, I wouldn't worry about the dead spots unless some algae got a foothold and started encroaching on the living tissue. Good luck!  -Kevin- >
                                    Thanks,
                                                IRV

Turbinaria care 9/15/04
Hi recently purchased a Turbinaria peltata, turban, platter saucer coral, it was in good shape 3 days ago, now, right in the middle it looks to be dying it has a brown spot with stringy stuff coming out,
<could just be digestion... no worries just yet>
what can I do for it my water is in good shape, everything except my nitrates are at 20 which I have done a  water change 25 percent I will test water again, is there anything I can dip the coral in to help it, I am running power compacts, so I don't think this is a problem, my tank has been up and going for months now, everything else fish and other corals are ok, no corals close to it WHERE SHOULD I PLACE THIS CORAL RIGHT NOW IT IS SITTING ON A ROCK IS THIS OK??? I HAVE 125 GALLON AQUARIUM, THANKS
<this coral is highly adaptable... please do have patience my friend. Share a pic when/if you can for better ID of the problem. Anthony>

Turbinaria and algae.
Hello Again Crew
<< Hi there, Blundell here. >>
You helped me out once before so I will call on you once again.  I have a pagoda coral I believe it is Turbinaria peltata that I inherited from a friends aquarium when he left the hobby.  When I received it, it was not extending its polyps but since has come to fully extend and feed once again.  The problem is there is a patch in the center of the coral that has died and Green hair algae has a foot hold.  My water conditions are relatively good with my only concern being my nitrates somewhere between 10 and 20 ppm.  I have managed to win my battle with hair algae in most places except on this coral. The algae seems to do much better in this location than any other even though circulation is good.  I have tried to clean it of with a toothbrush but I am worried about damaging the coral.  Other that trying to keep my nutrient export up, feed lots and keep water conditions good is there anything that I can do? << Hermits and snails.  Also, it isn't such a bad thing, so I don't know if I'd get worked up about it. >>  Also is this species of coral completely non photosynthetic? << I have a difficult time believing so.  Calfo may say otherwise, but their color changing responses to lighting conditions give me reason to believe they are photosynthetic. >>
Lonnie Chin
<<  Blundell  >>

Tubastrea (sun polyps) losing color - 2/17/05
Hello Crew! <Hey Elmer>
I must say that I'm an avid reader of your web site, learning  a lot of things. <Great! Me too, actually> Thanks for that. <Thanks for coming here and being part of it all. It is why we do what we do> I have a beautiful sun/tube coral (Tubastrea aurea) which is in my aquarium for about 3 months now. <Fed well I hope?> I noticed that it started to lose its orange color at the base of its tubes. <Fading or actually turning colors?> It started as one spot three weeks ago that is gradually enlarging through time. <Hmmmm>  Now, most of the bases and in between the tubes are grayish in color. <How is the flow around this coral??>  Is this a sign of a dying coral? <Very possible. How do you feed this coral? This is a non-photosynthetic coral so it will need feeding somewhat frequently. At least every three to five days>  It is sitting at the bottom of my aquarium, not in a shaded area. <Not necessarily an issue but I have usually spotted these corals growing caves and overhangs usually upside down>  My water parameters are very good. <OK Be sure to check it and maybe even have someone check if possible. Maybe a local fish store?>  I have a 50g aquarium (5 months old), 192w fluorescent lighting, Arctica chiller maintained at 77F, 60lbs live rock, CPR Cyclone CY 194 sump/skimmer/filtration system with carbon, RowaPhos, and BioBale inside. <You can take out the BioBale if you would like, otherwise sounds very nice> I have a flame angel, yellow tang, 2 damsels, a Banggai cardinal, 2 soft corals, 2 LPS corals, a starfish, and 2 cleaner shrimps. <Good selection. Keep an eye on the damsels. Destructo twins for sure>
This tube coral is my first coral. It is beautiful and I earnestly don't want to lose it. <Again, be aware they like a medium flow and need to be fed regularly as stated above. Try a mixture of various Mysid, Cyclops-eeze, baby brine, Omega one etc and try target feeding if you don't already. Very likely they do get some food left over from the fish feedings but better to target. Again, to reiterate, this is not a coral that requires lighting.> It still continues to expose its yellow tentacles at night time. <A good time to feed it> Please advise. <I can't say for sure that this coral is dying, but I think increase the flow, maybe hang it in an overhang or cave, and target feed when tentacle are exposed will get the coral back on track.> Many thanks for your help. <Hopefully I have helped. Remains to be seen. Thanks for being part of it all. ~Paul>
Regards,
Elmer