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FAQs about Acroporid Coral Disease/Health, Parasites, Pests 4
Related Articles:
Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions
by Sara Mavinkurve, Acroporids,
SPS Corals, Related FAQs:
Acroporid Disease 1, Acroporid Disease
2, Acroporid Disease 3,
Acroporid Health 5, Acroporid Health 6,
Acroporid Health 7, Red/Black "Bugs"
Acropora Munching Copepods, Montipora
Munching Nudibranchs, &
Acroporids 1, Acroporids 2,
Acroporid Identification, Acroporid
Behavior, Acroporid Selection,
Acroporid Compatibility, Acroporid
Feeding, Acroporid Systems,
Acroporid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral,
Coral System Set-Up, Coral System
Lighting, Stony Coral Identification,
Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, | 
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Best Predator For Montipora Eating Nudibranch? – 12/12/07 Hi!
<<Hello Dominique>> What would be the best predator against
Montipora eating Nudibranchs (Aeolids)? <<This “ideal predator”
is likely another larger/different species of Nudibranch...and
probably not readily available to the hobby>> Is it very likely
to help? Very importantly, is it safe around small shrimps such as
sexy shrimps? <<I’ve found little, in my experience, that will
help with battling these pests. Even prophylactic dips seemed more
harmful to the already stressed corals than the Nudibranchs...and
although freshwater dips did kill the nudis, they also killed the
corals>> Would the six line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
be a good choice? <<Not in my experience. This and a couple other
wrasse genera I’ve tried (Halichoeres, Cirrhilabrus) did not seem
interested at all in these small pest Nudibranchs>> Any risk that
this wrasse eats sexy shrimps...? <<Is a possibility>> One
last thing, is it going to doom my mandarin (food competition)?
<<The Pseudocheilinus will out-compete the mandarin, and unless the
system is large (more than 100g), will also likely deplete the
available food supply>> Many thanks! Dominique <<I’m afraid
I don’t have a simple answer for your problem. You can try manual
extraction with tweezers (very tedious...and they multiply very
quickly) and blowing/clearing the Nudibranchs from the affected
corals with a turkey baster. Both of these tactics will work best if
the corals can be removed to a bare-bottom quarantine tank to
facilitate siphon removal of stray/blown-off animals/egg strands. I
have seen these Nudibranchs “cycle-out” on their own after a while,
and without eating/killing “all” their prey food items...though most
all small colonies were lost. Do also check the reef forums (Reef
Central, reefs.org) and see if someone there has had any success
eradicating these pests. Regards, EricR>>
Re: Best Predator For Montipora Eating Nudibranch? – 12/12/07
Thanks for the reply. <<Sorry it wasn’t better news>> It's a
depressing situation. <<Agreed…though I must mention, it may have
been avoided with quarantine>> I just read some people saying the
six line wrasse helped them. <<Is possible>> I am skeptical
about that given what you already told me. <<I can only relate my
experience and the experience of others I have known>> So far it
seems to eat a single species. <<The Nudibranch? Yes, it is quite
common for these creatures to feed very selectively…sometimes even
only on a single prey species>> Even moved to the other end of
the tank to eat some more of it while there was another Monti
species in the vicinity. <<My experience with these Nudibranchs
was that they fed only on the plating and encrusting species of
Montipora…and completely ignored M. digitata>> But I don’t know
what they'll do when there is nothing left of that species they
like. <<Hopefully they will just “fade away”>> I also just
read that they should eat all Montipora species. <<I disagree…
Some seem quite specific in their diet. Hopefully you will be lucky
in this regard>> My tank is Montipora dominated. If they wipe out
my colonies of digitata I think I may go out of the hobby. :( We
shall see... Thanks again! Dominique <<My fingers are
crossed… Am hoping, betting you will be around for a while [grin].
Good luck my friend. Eric Russell>>
R2: Best Predator For Montipora Eating Nudibranch? – 12/13/07
Am more relaxed about it today after a night’s sleep, but was a bit
freaking out yesterday. :) <<No worries re the “freaking”… And
I’m glad you feel better>> For sure you are right about
quarantine, but there is one thing: the nudis *appeared* just two
months (exactly 57 days) after introduction of the new/latest coral
in my tank. Is that not amazing!? <<Hmm, interesting… Perhaps
there was an incidental introduction/hitchhiker (Nudibranch or eggs)
on an added piece of rock, macroalgae, even a fish…>> So to be
bullet proof (at least with Montipora eating Aeolid Nudibranchs) I
guess one has to do a three month quarantine. <<Mmm, well…not
really practical, eh?>> Ok, will report to you on the final
outcome in a few months... <<Please do!>> Thanks for your
support Eric! Dominique <<Is my pleasure to assist. Eric
Russell>>
R3: Best Predator For Montipora Eating Nudibranch? (Update) –
02/20/08 Hi Eric, <<Hiya Dominique!>> Just to let you
know about the final outcome of the Montipora eating Nudibranch
invasion. <<Ah, okay!>> You were right about how specific they
are in their diet. <<Indeed>> They do seem to be impossible to
remove from a tank until there is no more food for them. <<Yep>>
They also can move to the sump easily to follow their prey if one
naïvely tries to hide a piece down there... <<Ha! Sorry, I know
it’s not funny, but…>> But they only eat capricornis, <<At
least this particular species>> not even other plating Montipora.
<<Mmm…”quite specific” indeed>> In fact there is a nice piece in
my tank I assumed to be a capricornis as it looks very similar and
was sold to me as such, but the nudis make the difference. <<I
see>> I made a little research since then and ID it as M. undata.
<<Oh? Neat…>> So only two small/medium sized (capricornis) corals
were affected in the end: nothing happened to the many digitata,
danae, undata and nodosa. << Yay!>> So I won’t be selling my
tank after all... ;) Dominique << I’m pleased you’ve decided
to stay in the hobby…and I thank you much for the update. Cheers,
Eric Russell>> |
Acropora decline... env. and? -11/18/07 I have a 75
gallon reef tank that has been up and running with no problems for a
little over a year. It has a 20 gallon sump/refugium, a large
protein skimmer, and 2 175 watt Metal Halides at 15000K. Tank
parameters are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate, 0 phosphate. My pH
is 7.9 ( a little low, <Actually, this is WAY low... the pH scale
is a base ten logarithm... this is fifty some percent off from
ideal...> but it is very stable and I alternate the lights on the
display and the sump ), 12 dKH, the salinity is 1.023 <Also too
low> and the temperature is 78 + or - 1 degree. I purchased an
Acropora from the LFS <How long ago?> who had received it the
day before as a shipping error and they were selling it cheap. Not
expecting the coral to sit around for a few weeks at that price, I
took a gamble and purchased it that day. It initially had some polyp
extension, but its color wasn't the best (probably due to shipping).
After a few days at the bottom of my tank it was beginning to turn
brown so I moved it up closer to the lights. The brown has faded
away and not he coral looks more or less white with a faint hint of
purple color, but still relatively brown near the base of the
branches. The polyp's are not opening up as much as before, but the
tips still have that purple spot and sometimes open up ( see picture
). I placed the Acropora near the return of my Mag 9.5 and also
added a Seio 600GPH and a smaller 270GPH powerhead at opposite sides
( See attached picture ). There is also a 190 GPH powerhead behind
the Acropora pointed directly in the glass to try and generate some
turbulence in the water. I have incorporated oyster eggs into my
feeding regiment but see very little activity from the Acropora. I
am wondering if his color lightening up is indicating the lighting
is good or if he is bleaching or even dying due to some other
factor? <Possibly> He has been in the tank for about 3 weeks
now; is this sufficient time for him to be doing well or should I
continue to wait it out? Could the pH be the problem? Any
suggestions are greatly appreciated. <Mmm, well, I would NOT keep
moving the specimen... and I would address your water quality per
the comments above... AND I would definitely read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/acropori.htm The files linked above: On
Acroporid Systems, Health.... Bob Fenner>
Re: Acropora decline, using WWM 11/19/07 Thanks for
your prompt response. As per your recommendations, I am beginning
work on a automatic top-off system to handle evaporation and I'll
also use it handle the pH issue. Do you have any specific
recommendations on how to raise the pH and keep it stable?
<Yes... posted... Please learn to/use the search tool, indices...>
Is there anything further you can say from looking at the picture
about the apparent health of the Acropora currently? <Mmm,
actually looks "fine" from what can be discerned... is a
wild-collected small colony (likely first or second year), collected
from a reef flat, likely Fijian... is really mostly "just" new...
though its proximity to established alcyoniids may be trouble here>
Is the flow I am currently using good? Thanks again for the help.
<S/b fine... BobF> | 
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Acropora dying 10/17/07 <HI Craig> Hi everyone, I am currently
at a loss for what is going on with one in particular coral. It is a
blue Acropora millepora that i have had for quite sometime now. In the
last few days it just started dying from the bottom up. The rest of my
corals are doing great so I don't know what could possibly be happening.
It has good water flow, it is in the upper half of the tank so i don't
think it is being deprived of light, and i feed the corals three times a
week with DT's and oyster eggs. Let me give you a run down of the
water parameters/system overview. pH- 8.2 ammonia- 0 nitrite -
0 nitrate - about 5ppm dKH- 9 calcium- 420 temperature- 76F
at night and 78F in the day lighting- 1x 250watt double ended MH 20K,
2x 65watt actinics. tank size- 36gal HOB SeaClone skimmer
Fluval 305 canister filter Hydor Koralia power heads (one of the 4's,
two of the smaller sized 2's) and a MaxiJet 400 I haven't added
anything to the system in a few months. This coral was having nice
growth and good polyp extension until four days ago i noticed a little
dead tissue around the base of the coral. Once i saw this it went very
quickly downhill. I fragged off the tips that still had some life in
them in hopes i could grow it out again but had no such luck. The frags
now are fading as well. Last night i went on a Acropora predator hunt
and only came up with a few Stomatella snails that i haven't seen before
and what looked like baby emerald crabs. I didn't get a good look at the
little crabs because they scurried off like cockroaches when i flicked
the light on to see. Hopefully one of you charming fellows can give me
some insight as to what could have happened. Thank you guys in advanced
and keep up the great work you guys do over there. <Sorry to hear
about this trouble. With out personally seeing the corals I can only
speculate. RTN (Rapid Tissue Necrosis) is a Acro disease that causes the
tissue to quickly die off of the skeleton. The causes can be viral, a
pathogen, environmental stress like a spike in temperature, or from an
aggressive species messing with it. The second thing is Acro Eating
Flat Worms (AEFW). These little pests are very small and the exact same
color as the coral they are feeding on. They feed from the base up.
Because the tips you fragged where healthier and then succumbed to the
same fate it is possible that you have an infestation. Again, purely
speculation, but they do feed from the base up. Keep an eye on the other
SPS corals in the tank. If they show signs of the same symptoms they
should be removed to a Quarantine tank and treated with Flatworm Exit as
a precaution. Diagnosing this problem is very difficult with out
first hand knowledge. Try searching RTN and AEFW within WWM FAQ's. Your
water parameters are well within reason, so a pathogen or predator is
the probable cause. HTH-Rich aka Mr. Firemouth>
Mysterious Coral Bleaching, Not Such A Mystery (Antibiotics Administered
To The Display System) – 08/08/07 Dear WWM Crew, <<Hello
Bill>> Please lend me your thoughts. <<Sure thing>> Recently
(within the past week) I noticed two Montipora corals in my tank that
have been acclimated and growing well begin to bleach. Within the past
two days a few small Pocillopora and Acropora began to bleach as well
and polyps hid. <<Mmm, an environmental issue of some sort>> I've
checked the tank parameters - everything seems rather on par – 75 gallon
tank -Alkalinity - 4.2 (may be a bit high?) <<Considering you
Calcium is over 400...yes, a bit>> -Calcium - 420 -Nitrate - 0
-Temp - 74 - 76 night and day <<Probably fine but a little on the
cool side in my opinion>> -SG- 1.024 <<Better than many I’ve seen
but bumping to NSW levels (1.025/1.026) is best>> -Lighting - 2 * 250
10K, 4 * 96 actinic. All the corals have loved the light to this point.
<<Unless the bulbs are “very” old this is likely not the issue>> I
think my problem may be one of two things, or a combo of both. I used a
cycle of "Chemi Clean" Cyanobacteria remover which threw my protein
skimmer way out of cycle. <<Ugh! It has done much more harm than that
I fear...you have likely wiped out much of your biological filtration.
You didn’t list an Ammonia reading but you need to check this right
away...as well as preparing/performing large water changes and adding
chemical filtration (Carbon/Poly-Filter/Chemi-Pure) to try to keep the
buildup of nitrogenous compounds under control until bacteria has a
chance to repopulate>> It is creating massive amounts of
micro-bubbles so I haven't been able to run it properly. <<Possibly
overcome by the increased organics load...perhaps you can adjust it
“down” a bit>> I am doing a third partial water change today (in the
last week) to try to remove excess chemicals so I can get my skimmer
running normally (not overflowing the collection cup constantly).
<<The water changes probably explain why your Nitrate reading was zero.
Do try to get the skimmer back in service...perhaps throttling it back a
bit to slow down the overfilling of the skimmer cup>> There is also
one leather coral in the tank, could the lack of chemical filtration for
the past two weeks, or that in conjunction with the leather emitting
toxins be killing these previously healthy corals? <<Is definitely a
contributor...at the very least is exacerbating the situation. Get some
chemical filtration going!>> Any advice? <<Yes...don’t administer
antibiotics to your display system...and start reading here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm>> Thanks! Bill
<<Regards, EricR>> Montipora question, dis.
5/22/07 Greetings- Question for the pros...have you guys ever
heard of a bacterial infection on Montiporas? <Yes>
I have a colony that looks like it has RTN. The tissue is actually
coming off. The person I got it from has the same problem with the same
Monti. Params are all normal (if there is such a thing). <You tell
me> Any suggestions? <Re?> I don't mind loosing
<losing...> the piece, but am more concerned about the others in the
tank. I am positive it is not Monti nudi.s and the only other thing I
could come up with is bacterial unless you know otherwise. Have fun
at IMAC. Wish I could make it out to meet both of you in person, but my
brothers wedding will be taking up my time. Hopefully future endeavors
will allow us to run into each other. Also, Bob - have you heard from
Walt lately? <A month or so back... am pretty sure he's still in
Fiji...> I haven't heard back from him and wanted to make sure
everything was all right. Until then. Cheers. Justin <...
You have read on WWM re stony coral, SPS, Acroporid disease? Bob Fenner>
SPS health, poor English, no useful info. 5/3/07 Great
site lots of info. The question i have is bout a green Acro i have
purchase recently. The polyps extension is great but at the bottom
near the base some poly is a bit white, is this normal or should i
be worry? Its placed near the top of the tank to receive light
from my 150w MH. <... Water quality tests? Circulation? Feeding?
Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acrodisfaqs.htm and the linked
files above. Bob Fenner> | 
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Acro Color – 04/30/07 Sometimes I wonder the average number of
questions you get hourly on your site... Sorry to bother you but I had a
question I haven't been able to find an answer to normally. I recently
purchased a dark green Acro (no specific name was given by the online
retailer) about 2 or 3 weeks ago. In the bag it was a nice dark green
color, they labeled it Hunter Green, similar in color to perhaps grass.
At any rate, after about a week or two I noticed its color changing from
green base with whitish polyps to something else. The base/skeleton is
like a Coral Lipstick or Peach color with white polyps, even when viewed
from an angle, straight on, or from above. I'm kind of wondering if its
similar to an anemones Zooxanthellae (sp?) that can be expelled due to
some sort of stress? <Yes> He's on a high point in the tank,
around 3" in width total <Mmm... well, depending on your lighting...
and how this colony has been kept recently... starting it down in depth
a bit to start is generally advised> if I'm being generous, and he's
grown about a 1/2" total since I got him (I'm so proud!). It completely
baffles me, wish I had a before/after picture but I never got to take a
before pic. I haven't moved him at all since placing him in the tank and
the only potential predators are a small Green Bubble Tip Anemone,
<Incompatible... could be your answer here> which is smaller than
the Acro, and a dime-sized hermit crab that hasn't taken notice to him.
There's also a Yellow Watchman Goby - awesome fish! - but no other
mobile buddies. I've been dosing Kent Invert food every few days for my
small Crocea clam, about a drop per gallon or less depending on my
steadiness with my hands. I was also thinking that I haven't glued him
to a rock, he's sitting on the rock and I was just going to let him do
his thing. The color doesn't really bother me, I really like it, but I
want to make sure its not a sign of something bad. The polyps are still
extending and he's in an area of pretty high flow, so maybe he's just
playing Chameleon? I have PC lights and the tank is only about 8" deep,
I'm just scared that he's starting to bleach for some error on my part
and I really don't want that. Thanks. <Mmm... well, the growth
and polyp extension are good signs... and if you don't mind the color
change... I would leave all as is. Such color changes are often due/led
by lighting, current, water quality differences... Bob Fenner>
HELP... Montipora hlth. 02/17/07 Hi guys,
I will probably get scolded for this one, I didn't research nor spell
check. (Sorry) I will never do it again, but I need you desperately and
quickly. I ordered a Montipora Cap offline. Great piece and excellent
seller. He shipped On via USPS on Tuesday. I just got it in. This thing
is gorgeous, only it has been in shipping bag, lost in mail for 3+ days.
I floated it for 10 minutes and placed carefully in hospital/quarantine
tank directly under BioWheel filter output. I have nothing in the tank
but live rock and a pair of sailfin mollies to keep unused tank cycling.
Due to live rock and usage for quarantine on live rock as well as new
corals, I keep regular additions of strontium and calcium in this tank.
Salinity is 1.023, PH 8.3, Nitrates 10, nitrites 0, ammonia 0. I
have low 30 watt Pc lighting on quarantine tank. The color is very pale
on the Monti, the water was bad cloudy and pretty pungent odor. I
actually tested the bag water once I got the coral removed from the
toxic waste. I was amazed nitrates 10, Ammonia <50, nitrites 0, temp was
very cool 68-70 (guessing) Ph was just below 8.0 reading. Is there
anything else I can do for it? Please help. Seller has been great, says
he will refund or replace but has nothing comparable to this guy. It
wasn't his fault anyway. Please help me! I have never owned a Monti yet
always wanted one. I have researched plenty about their general
maintenance, but nothing about recovery or emergency care. What advice
can you give and what can I expect for his pending doom. He definately
isn't happy, and had some pretty drastic temp changes I'm sure between
CA and SC. Thanks for
being there!!!
Cindy <<Cindy:
At this point, the best thing you can do is provide it with clean water,
good flow and decent lighting. Since the coral is obviously stressed
out from the move, you should not disturb it for a few days. Hopefully,
it will quickly adjust to the conditions of your tank and recover
quickly. Best of luck, Roy>> Help... Roy... titles... hard to
place new, ongoing corr. tog. w/o... Re... Montipora hlth? 2/18/07
Roy, Thanks for the quick response. As always, you guys are great
and I appreciate your service. I know you hear that alot, but please
believe we mean it. I lost the Monti despite all efforts. The sender is
being great about it, but cannot duplicate this particular specimen. He
had grown this in his personal tank, over the course of the last year,
from a small frag. I was so looking forward to an aquacultured
Montipora. Thanks Again.
Cindy
<<Cindy: Sorry the coral didn't make it. Sometimes, if there is a
small section left, they can start growing again from hardly
anything. If you can't get another one from the seller for a while, you
might want to try another more common one. That way, you'll have more
experience, when the special one becomes available again. Usually, they
like medium to high light and medium flow. If it's coming from someone
else's tank, it's always good to ask how they keep it. Then, you can
try to duplicate the same conditions the best you can. Best of luck,
Roy>>
Montipora digitata turning pale 2/16/07 Bob, <Eric>
Your expert advice is needed again, seems almost like a monthly
thing! I recently upgraded my lighting system over my tank from pc
lights to a halide system. <Recently? As in weeks?> For some
reason now my salmon digitata seems to have turned a light pale
pink. <Not uncommon... even with just the lighting change>
I have attached 2 pictures, 1 before and 1 after. I screen
acclimated my tank over a month span. I am not sure if the coral is
still healthy or if it will get its dark orangish-pink coral
back. I would like to movie it down in the tank but it has
encrusted on to 3 different rocks! Current Parameters:
Calcium - 380 Alkalinity - 9 DKH Magnesium - 1210 SG -
35 ppt Phosphate - 0 nitrate- between 0 and 2 <Mmm,
these are all fine> Would target feeding this coral directly
help bring back its color? <Might... do you have a "healthy"
sizable refugium? Do you currently add single-celled algae?
Zooplankters of any size?> Any opinion is appreciated.
thanks, Eric PS: Image 2044 is the current photo
Image 2034 was taken approximately 3 weeks ago <You know... I
wouldn't be concerned here... both pix show a very healthy colony.
Cheers, Bob Fenner> |
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Nice SW Sys., too many incomp. Cnid.s 1/16/07 Hi WWM
Crew. You've given me great advice in the past. I hope you can help
me now. I'll start with my equipment and parameters. 75 Gallon
mostly SPS 1 Tunze 6100 and 6095 controller Berlin skimmer rated
up to 250 gallons wet dry trickle filter 2 250W HQI 15K 2 PC
Actinic 125W Specific Gravity 1.025 Ammonia 0 Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0 PH 8.4 DKH 11 Calcium 450 2 A.
Millipora 2 Monti Digitata Superman
Monti Spaghetti Leather Yellow Branching
Porites Galaxea Acropora Blue
Tort Pavona Chips
Acropora Turbinaria Tri Color
Acropora Green Frogspawn
Pectina Button Polyps Pagoda
cup Green Star Polyps Candy Cane
Coral Orange Monti Cap Yellow Sun
polyps Pocillipora Christmas Tree
Coral Chili Coral Blue ridge
Heliopora Pulsing Xenias Brown Hairy Mushrooms
<Yowzah... a bunch/myriad of competing Cnidarian species> Blue Hippo
Tang 2 Tomato Clowns Blue Damsel Kole Tang Fairy Wrasse
Wow I think that's it. My problem is with my Superman Monti two parts of
it are turning white. I know that's a bad sign. I have no bleaching on
anything else. The Superman Monti's neighbors were the GSP and Button
Polyps would either of those have anything to do with its color change?
<Could very well, yes> Also my Chili Coral doesn't extend its polyps
like it used to. <This Nephtheid is not easily kept> It is under
a ledge receives little to no light <No problem with the lack of
light here... is non-photosynthetic> and has great flow. If you have
any advice or suggestions on either of these problems please help.
Thanks again guys. Omar <Time to move some of these colonies
really... there is too much really non-compatible life types crammed in
here... Please read:
http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcomp2faq.htm and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner>
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