Live Rock - Montipora Digitata 9/16/09
Hi crew,
<Henk>
I am just starting up my first marine system, and the live rock has been placed in the system about two weeks. Since the tank is cycling with normal lighting cycle I am experiencing quite some algae growth. Mainly some fine Green Hair Algae but also some Bryopsis. The live rock was collected from the coast in south China and shipped by air directly to me (in Beijing). I washed the live rock before placing it in the tank, but did not brush aggressively, merely shake and blow of detritus with a powerhead. Two large
pieces of live rock are apparently dead pieces of Montipora Digitata, with three or four tips of about 0.5 to 1 inch of live coral, colored blue-brown and with polyp extension. My question is: do I need to do anything if I would like to keep this coral alive, or will the fact that it is connected to the dead coral (partly overgrown with algae currently) not affect its chances or survival?
<Possibly either way...>
The tank is still cycling. This is a system of 150 gallon with two metal halides of 250W as lighting. During the cycling, I am doing water changes weekly of about 10%. The skimmer is a Bubble Magus 200E2 (local Chinese brand, rated for systems up to 390 gallon) with Eheim Pump 1264 and circulation is provided with an Atman return pump of 5000L/H and 2 Tunze 6105 pumps on a multicontroller. I have not tested the water yet since I suppose the tank is still cycling, but will do so soon.
<I would... Likely you could use some chemical filtration, and possibly larger water change outs, some supplementation for biominerals and alkalinity for sure>
Any advise would be appreciated. I have been reading for a long time on your site before setting up this tank, and have found it to be of great help, and my first and major reference for any question regarding marine or freshwater systems.
Regards,
Henk Naert
<Do search on WWM for the terms mentioned for more background, direction.
Bob Fenner>

Reef Tank: Need an ID weird tube structure  8/29/2009 Hey guys I keep getting this tube like formation around my Montiporas. It has a consistency of super glue, mixed with sand. I tear it apart in hopes of catching something inside but to no avail. Any chance you guys know what it is and how to catch it? <I suspect this is a type of tumour caused by pathogenic bacteria...> It's annoying, it eats/erodes the side of the Montipora it attaches to build its tube structure. Also the structure is built on the live rock. I attached some photos to see if you can ID it. Thanks, Mark <Please read here: http://www.coremoc.go.jp/english/pub/coralreefjapan/0203_coral_diseases.pdf Bob Fenner>

Struggling with SPS 7/21/2009 I am a long time SPS keeper and have a great deal of success over the years - until now. I setup a 1000L tank approximately 9 months ago (from the stock in my 4x2x2) and have seen a progressive slide in the health of my corals over recent months. I have provided my tank details at the bottom of the message and also attached a photo showing one of my corals. It is hard to describe but the corals are showing signs of mucus production, minor recession of the tissue, a mould/fungus like covering. This appears to be affecting older parts of the colonies more than new growth. None of my LPS are showing any signs of stress in fact a recent bit of damage to an elegance healed up nicely in two weeks without an issue. <Perhaps a clue> I am at a loss. I thought I had a fairly well setup tank but I am now considering pulling it down as I cant get on top of the issue. Thank you for any help you can provide. http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k179/kirsto71/New%20Tank/P5100027.jpg System Type: Mixed Reef Display System: Strike up Date: Oct 2008 Display Tank: 6 x 3 x 26inch. Cross braced and euro braced Display Lighting: 3 x 250w MH. IceCap Electronic ballasts and Lumen Bright reflectors 20k bulbs Stand: 50x50 Galv Steel Hood: 50x50 RHS Sump: 110x60x45 cm Sump Refugium: Compartmentalized in sump Refugium Lighting: 2 x Double HO-T5's 10k bulbs Support systems: System Water: NSW <Another set of possibilities> Display Water circulation: 2 x Iwaki MD70's driving eductors in closed loop format, 1 x 15000 LPH closed loop pump through base of tank, Tunze wavebox, 2 x 6000 LPH Koralia copies plus waiting to order a Vortech Return Pump: Laguna 11000 LPH Skimmer: Turbo 1200mm Tall Recirculating Beckett Skimmer driven by a 7200 LPH pump Evaporation Top Up: Iwaki dosing pump controlled by Aquatronica System Control: Aquatronica. Controls: Auto water change (15 L per day) Metal halides HO-T5 lighting Calcium reactor Top Off Water leak sensor Chiller Monitors - Redox and pH Chemical Support: Calcium Addition: Turbo Single Stage Calcium Reactor Alkalinity Addition: Turbo Single Stage Calcium Reactor Other Chemical Maintenance: Minor additions for calcium and Alk where there is an imbalance Current Water Chemistry: Stable, very little variation pH: 8:00 - 8.3 Alk: 8.5 - 9 dKH Nitrates/Nitrites: 0 Calcium: 425 - 440ppm Magnesium: 1200 - 1300ppm Phosphates: <0.03 Temp: 26 degrees C <Nothing "jumps out" on your list of gear, measures... The best guess, and this has no real level of confidence, is maybe some sort of "cascade event" from/twixt your Cnidarians... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Bleaching Acropora Troubles – 06/10/09
Hello Crew,
<<Greetings Dave>>
I am in need of some trouble shooting assistance.
<<Okay>>
Over the past several weeks I have had several of my Acropora corals bleaching at the base of the coral.
<<Mmm…>>
On most, the tops of the corals still appear to be showing new growth.
<<Several possibilities... An Acro predator maybe…aggressive stinging corals (sweeper tentacles) positioned too closely…or maybe lighting, etc.>>
I have lost a small blue Acropora and another small frag of Montipora appears to be almost completely bleached. I have had most of these Acropora for about a year.
<<Hmm… Perhaps you have inadvertently introduced a problem organism. Or maybe this is the culmination of a building problem (e.g. – allelopathy)>>
I propagated the colony of Acropora that had the most damage a few weeks ago and they seemed fine for about two weeks. Then the tissue at the base started to recede again.
<<Not uncommon in my experience… It can be difficult to save such colonies that have begun to decline>>
The bleaching appears to be spreading to other SPS corals now such as my green and pink birds nest. Please advise, I don't want to lose all of my SPS!
<<Mmm… If not a predator (e.g. – fish, Nudibranch, crustacean) then perhaps this is a bacterial/microbial complaint. A prophylactic dip and movement to a quarantine tank may be in order>>
I have looked for some type of predator and have not seen any red bugs, flat worms, etc. There is also no brown slime from any of the effected corals.
<<A predator can be difficult to espy…especially if nocturnal>>
I am puzzled because I have not changed my weekly husbandry of the tank and the colony that has the worst bleaching, has actually grown onto the glass.
<<But have you tested your water param.s to exclude a buildup of nitrogenous compounds as the culprit?>>
I have several large LPS corals including a seven inch maze brain that have been in my tank for over 7 years with no problems.
<<Unfortunately with this hobby, sooner or later something begins to tip/upset the “balance.” Obviously “something” is different/has changes in your system>>
I also have two healthy clams, Whisker, Trumpet, Frog Spawn, Acan, Bubble, Favia, Scolymia, and Dendrophyllia corals that are doing great
<<Bacterial infestations among corals can often be Family/Genus/Species specific…as are many coral predators>>
I hand feed most of the LPS corals and have been using Oyster Eggs the last few days to see if it helps with the SPS bleaching. My 125 gallon reef has been established for nine years now.
<<Ah, excellent…and congrats!>>
I have 6 six-foot VHO bulbs, three Actinic (454 bulbs) and three AquaSun.
<<This likely isn’t the issue…and a change isn’t going to save your corals at this point…but I think your “shallower” species of coral would benefit from change to a 2 – 4 ratio respectively here, to increase the amount of “usable” light>>
The actinic lights come on an hour before and after the main lights. Temp is between 78
- 80 degrees. Water flow is handled by two main pumps 1800 and 1200 GPH. They are controlled via two SCWDs and four returns. I also have two other powerheads for dead spots, 800 GPH and 300 GPH. I don't think water flow is an issue here.
<<Does not seem so, no>>
I have a 45 gallon ADHI refugium with some Chaeto and Halimeda algae and a Red Mangrove plant. 30 gallon water changes are done weekly. I am using an Aqua FX RO/DI system for RO water.
<<Have you tested the output lately? Perhaps a pre-filter/membrane/DI resin change is in order>>
I always premix and pre heat the saltwater days in advance.
<<Very good>>
Salinity level is at 1.025; pH 7.8;
<<Not “bad”…but I would increase this above 8.0 for some added “wiggle room.” Any drop from this point would be dangerous…and could be happening at night when the lights are off, even with the refugium>>
Nitrates and Nitrites are at 0.
<<Ammonia? And…have you validated/used fresh test kits?>>
Alkalinity is a little on the low side. I have been using baking soda to bring it up by adding to a high flow area in the sump.
<<Okay>>
I am also using activated carbon via a Magnum filter and use a Berlin XL skimmer.
<<I would suggest the addition (at least for a while) of some Poly-Filter to the Magnum>>
I also have automatic fresh water top off for evaporation.
<<Do check that RO/DI filter>>
The only change I can think of is that I replaced my bulbs about three months ago. I changed the actinic lighting from super actinic to the 454 actinic which has a more blue spectrum rather than purple.
<<I don’t think this is an issue… The Actinic lighting is more for you/you sense of aesthetics anyway. Any good full-spectrum or Daylight or 10,000K bulb will provide plenty of short-wave lighting for the corals needs. Utilizing Actinic lighting is not a problem…just be sure to provide enough full-spectrum light. Hence my suggestion to increase the number of AquaSun bulbs vs. Actinic bulbs here>>
Should I try to cut back on the lighting?
<<if you are thinking photo-shock could be the problem…I think it is a moot point after three months. Keep providing 12-14 hours of light per day>>
Other than that, I have been doing my weekly maintenance as always.
<<If an imbalance of the system is not the issue, then you have likely “introduced” a pathogen or predator>>
Water change, clean pre filters, change carbon and trim up the Chaeto algae in the refugium when needed. Please let me know if there is something I am missing or should try. Your time is always appreciated.
<<You sound like you have a handle on the maintenance, and are very familiar with your system (should be after nine years, eh). I’m afraid, I don’t have a silver-bullet for you here. These issues do just turn up sometimes. A small change/imbalance may have tipped the scale in a pathogens’ favor…and they are usually swift and severe with often little to be done other than watch and wait. If the affected corals are small enough and/or not encrusted on large rocks you might be able to save some with a proprietary coral dip (Tropic Marin has a pretty good one) or maybe just an iodine dip...along with a move to a clean quarantine system>>
Thanks,
Dave
<<Happy to share… EricR>

Re: Bleaching Acropora Troubles (More than Acro woes now) – 07/27/09
Hello Again Crew,
<<Hi Dave…Eric here again>>
It appears that the dying coral issue is a pathogen.
<<And how have you determined this?>>
The issue has now affected just about every coral in my tank.
<<Mmm>>
Just about all of my Zoanthids are closed up and shrinking off the live rock, including some species that were spreading across the rock at a very fast rate. My Lobophyllia has receded along with my Scolymia. The two types of branching Hammer coral are also closed up. Every coral in the tank looks as if it has lost significant color and the tissue is flat instead of raised and meaty. Before the corals die, they all seem to start off with a thin brown diatom looking film on a small part of the coral and then spreads till it eventually kills the corals. The fish seem to be unaffected and healthy. I have tried surfing the web for info on tank wipeout, but they all seem to reference the fish all dying and not the corals.
<<I suppose it possible that a very high concentration of some type of bacterium could be the problem. Though I’m not sure I’m convinced that this is a pathogen…affecting ALL your different coral species but not your fishes. The “film” you mention may also simply be an opportunistic organism/alga that is feeding/replacing necrotic tissue caused by some Allelopathic/water quality issue(s)>>
In my 12 years of reef keeping, I have never seen anything like this.
<<Indeed… Most diseases complaints are specific to a genus/species…in my experience>>
I have corals in the tank that I have had for over 7 years. I'm at a loss here.
<<Perhaps that maturity/growth among a mix of noxious species is what is at play here>>
I have checked every water parameter that I can think of; ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, pH, ALK, phosphate, TDS...none of which are out of range.
<<There are many aspects of water quality we don’t, as hobbyists, have the ability to test>>
The tank, make up, and fresh water top off are all well within range. I have been doing 40 gallon water changes weekly and have even done a 70 gallon change last week, none of which help the matter.
<<I wonder if something has changed with your source water that you are not aware of. A couple decades ago I lived in the UK for a few years. I experienced a couple of whole-tank wipeouts with my budding reef system. Come to find out the local council was treating the tap water every few months with a compound (supposedly non-toxic to humans) to kill freshwater shrimp living/breeding in the water lines (yeah…taught me to filter my source water). I’m not saying someone is poisoning your water…just pointed out that you don’t/can’t always know what is or is not in it>>
I have replaced all the RO filters except the membrane.
<<I think this too may be warranted/worth a try here. If this is a bacterium issue, it could well be growing on/introduced via the membrane>>
The digital TDS meter on the RO system showed zero before and after I swapped the filters.
<<Remember, such readings are only a general guide>>
I have been cleaning the skimmer daily and swapping out the carbon weekly with no help either. I have not strayed from my weekly regimen that I have been doing for 9 years now. Is there anything I can do here?
<<Short of removing, dipping, and placing the corals in a new/fresh environment…likely very little. You could consider Iodine dosing (Lugol’s Solution) as an attempt to hinder the pathogen, though used in this manner it may have little to no effect t be honest…and has its own dangers if mis-applied/abused>>
At this point I can't afford to lose all my corals.
<<I do sympathize>>
The quarantine tank is only ten gallons and will not hold a third of my corals. If I need to setup a new tank to save them, I will... please advise.
<<Perhaps you need to weigh the cost of the corals (replacement) versus the cost of a large enough quarantine system. Do also be aware… If this is indeed an incidental introduction of a virulent pathogen, just removing (temporarily) and treating the livestock may not be enough…you may be faced with breaking down the display, discarding sand and rock, and cleaning/sterilizing tank and equipment. Drastic measures for sure… And I will ask Bob if he sees this to add his take here>>
If the issue is a pathogen, where does the pathogen reside?...in the water, on the rock, on the coral itself, in the sand?
<<Maybe all the above>>
I don't believe that it resides in the water judging by the water changes I have been doing.
<<What leads you to this conclusion I wonder… You are not changing out “all” the water at once (and even if you did, bacteria would still be present), and if the source of the contamination (again, if indeed this is the issue) is your source water or storage vessel…well then…>>
I also have an outbreak of Asterina star fish that has gotten out of control.
<<Hmm…perhaps a clue here>>
If I have to break the tank down, I would like to get rid of these hitch hikers at that time. Their numbers are far too great for manual extraction. I have been pulling them out with tweezers for months. I have found that could tap water seems to kill them within a few minutes.
<<As it would most any marine invertebrate>>
If I had to break down the reef, my plan of action would be to relocate the original tank to another room first. Then set up the new tank in its place. I would then give all live rock a cold fresh water dip to hopefully rid the rock of the star fish and any pathogens.
<<If a pathogen is involved…this may not be enough to kill it. It’s up to you to decide how much of a gamble you’re willing to take, but in such an instance I would be incline to “replace” the rock/substrate with new>>
I also realize that I would lose most, if not all beneficial bacteria as well, but I cannot afford a repeat of the same problem.
<<Then reference my previous statement>>
I would let the rock cycle in the old tank
<<To be reinfected?>>
and put the corals in the new tank after an iodine dip with just a glass bottom for the time being. My question to you is, can I use all new makeup water and none of the original tank water?
<<Not without maturing/seeding heavily from another “healthy” system>>
I don't want to use the old water for fear of contamination.
<<Agreed>>
I wanted to add my existing 45 gallon refugium to the new tank...will there be enough biological matter from the refugium to avoid the new tank cycling?
<<If a pathogen is present then this too is contaminated. Everything must be either thoroughly cleaned, treated and quarantined (as in the coral dips), or discarded…no exceptions>>
The current tank is a 125 and I was looking at a 210 gallon.
<<A nice upgrade…and the 125 would make an excellent sump or refugium re…once all cleaned up>>
Please let me know what the best plan of action would be to setup a new tank and if you think I should salvage the old tank, or setup a new one.
<<The old system “is” salvageable as discussed re cleaning (with bleach) and replacement of rock and substrate, macroalgae, etc. (based on the assumption of a pathogenic complaint)… A “new” system may seem like the best way to go, but it will still need to be cycled…something that can be done while the livestock is in quarantine for observation of the problem’s continuance>>
Thanks,
Dave
<<Happy to share… Good luck, and please do keep me posted of the outcome. EricR>>

R2: Bleaching Acropora Troubles (More than Acro woes now) – 07/28/09
Hi Eric,
<<Hiya Dave>>
Just a few more questions.
<<Sure>>
I most likely will upgrade to a newer tank if going to all the trouble of breaking it down and cleaning it.
<<I see>>
The word "bleach", when associated with a reef tank scares me =)
<<A normal reaction… Just be sure to use "pure” bleach…as in without added scents or other modifiers. Rinse everything with copious amounts of clean water. And where possible, soak bleached gear in a container of water and add a dechlorinator like Sodium thiosulfate, then rinse again afterwards>>
You mentioned to discard the sand and rock...can the rock be bleached/disinfected and reused?
<<As a last ditch effort, perhaps…but better to just let it dry “completely” if you are determined to reuse it>>
...or even left out in the sun?
<<Better>>
I have about 200 pounds of live rock and some really nice pieces that I would like to keep if possible.
<<Final decision is up to you>>
Also, will the snails and crabs I have in there be an issue?
<<A good question… I suppose they could be carriers/transporters of bacteria just like anything else>>
...should I iodine dip them and quarantine as well?
<<A short dip in a mild Iodine solution may work…be sure to use clean saltwater rather than freshwater here…else they likely won’t survive the dip for sure>>
Lastly, if I place the existing corals in a quarantine tank with all new makeup water, will this have an ill effect on the corals?
<<As in fresh from the make-up barrel? Indeed it can… Fresh-made seawater is very aggressive and still chemically active. Give it a day (good) or two (better) to mature a bit…also, adding some “seed water” from a “good” established system can give it a bit of a jump-start>>
As far as the water source goes, I have well water and don't think the parameters would fluctuate like public water.
<<Ah but I beg to differ… Something as seemingly harmless and beneficial as a heavy rainfall can indeed affect the quality of your well water depending on the activities/industries around your area. If you’re not doing so already, I urge you to add deionization as a last stage to the RO filter you use to filter water for your reef system>>
I had it tested last year for everything they could test for and all was well.
<<That was then… Do consider the problems you are experiencing with your reef may stem from your well water if your water treatment equipment/protocol is not up to snuff>>
The Aqua FX RO system is not even a year old yet, but I will replace the membrane on the RO system for arguments sake.
<<On most municipally treated water systems a good RO membrane (if flushed periodically) should indeed last for years. But on a well system this can be more variable and harder to judge. The TDS meter is a good “guide” for this, but only measures the amount of solids…not the composition. There may also be compounds present that don’t register on the meter. If/when in doubt…replace the membrane>>
I'm just trying to figure out the best way to go about the move. If I setup the new tank with new live rock and sand in the display as well as the refugium, this will take a few weeks to cycle.
<<Yes>>
Mean while, I would discard or bleach the rock and place the corals in a quarantine tank with all new makeup water.
<<Yes>>
When the new tank is finished cycling, I would then put the corals back in as long as they appear healthy. Does this seem to be a feasible plan to you?
<<It does>>
Thanks again for all your help!
Dave
<<Happy to assist… Good luck mate, EricR>>

Cyanobacteria 5/25/09 Dear Bob, Mr. Calfo, <Hello, Scott V. with you today.> I have big problem with Cyanobacteria which has spread out on my Acropora on peaks, I am trying to blow them with turkey baster everyday, but it seems it will not want to leave. When I am blowing Acropora's peaks-end also some part of tissue is damaged and coral is losing zooxanthellae. I have tried to bath coral in tropic Marin pro cure but Cyano is retrieving back. <This will not do it.> Cyano was caused by my mistake that I have put china MH bulbs instead good ones. Please help! <Well, in the end there are other fueling factors behind the BGA besides the light, see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm There are other factors at play. As for your corals, you will need to figure out what is causing the BGA to be so competitive. Until then keep blowing off what you can.> Re: Cyanobacteria 5/26/09 Ok, thank you so much, I will keep trying. <Welcome, this battle can be won! This is a mild case, you have caught it early. Scott V.>