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FAQs about Dendrophylliid Coral Foods/Feeding/Nutrition
Related Articles: Dendrophylliid
Corals, Related FAQs:
Dendrophylliids 1, Dendrophylliids 2,
Dendrophylliid Identification,
Dendrophylliid Behavior,
Dendrophylliid Compatibility,
Dendrophylliid Selection,
Dendrophylliid Systems,
Dendrophylliid Disease,
Dendrophylliid Reproduction, Stony/True
Coral, Coral System Set-Up,
Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral
Identification, Stony Coral Selection,
Coral Placement,
Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
Disease/Health, Propagation,
Growing Reef Corals, Stony
Coral Behavior, | 
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Sun coral feeding 01/12/09
Good morning,
Yet another
dilemma!
I have a sun coral that I brought home the day before
Christmas. The LFS instructed me to feed twice a week with brine shrimp.
This did not appear to be adequate, as the coral only put on a slight
display while feeding.
When I informed the LFS of this behavior, I
was told to feed daily. The coral appears to be two separate animals,
each with multiple mouths, one more pale than the other. The pale side
seems to eat better (appears inflated). I've not seen a big colorful
display.
I've read that some reefers actually remove their sun coral
from the display tank, place it in a small container, and feed it there.
Have you had any experience with these corals?
<I have multiple
experiences with these corals myself. They can be a bit difficult.
Instead of removing the coral, I would suggest you make something to
serve as a "feeding dome" to give it time to feed. This can be an
inverted "critter keeper" or something you make out of a cut up two
liter bottle. Basically, it just needs to cover the coral and trap the
food onto the coral. Keep this on the coral (with food) for an hour or
two. Then turn remove it, turn the pumps back on and see what happens.
These corals require a lot of TLC and patience.>
Thank you
Pat
<Good luck and de nada,
Sara M.>
Re: sun coral feeding 01/13/09
Good News!
When I got home
last night and the sun coal was looking better than it ever had (both
sides inflated with mouths open without being prompted by food)
While
I was feeding it I was able to see it eat more than I ever had before.
<Very cool, thanks for sharing.>
Thanks for your advice for a feeding
dome. I'm sure I will need to implement that once I re-introduce fish.
Pat
<Good idea... the fish will try to steal food from the coral.
Best,
Sara M.>
Feeding (Or Not!) Sun Coral – 02/13/08
Hey There, Jake here.
<<Hiya Jake…Eric here>>
I was wondering does a sun coral HAVE to
be fed shrimp and meaty foods?
<<Yes…Tubastrea sp. are quite the
voracious carnivore>>
Or can it survive on plankton alone?
<<Not in the closed systems we keep…unless specifically designed for
such>>
Because I have not fed my sun coral anything but DT’s
phytoplankton for a month and it seems fine.
<<An inappropriate
food…am sure the coral is not “consuming” such a diet. Fine meaty
foods ARE required…along with “direct” feedings of such. These
corals can look fine for months while still starving, as yours most
assuredly is doing>>
Thanks for all you guys <<and gals>> help.
<<Happy to assist, Jake…now feed that coral [grin]! EricR>>
Re: Feeding (Or Not!) Sun Coral - 02/14/08
Thanks for all
your guys help.
<<Happy to share>>
What would be a good food
for the sun coral?
<<Any minced meaty foods of a marine origin,
but for simplicity/convenience, small frozen Mysis Shrimp and frozen
Cyclops-eeze are good fare. Giving these foods an occasional soak in
Selcon or Vita-Chem is also beneficial>>
Every time I try to
shoot some food its way my cleaner shrimp looks like it takes the
food before the sun coral can consume it.
<<A common problem… I
know of some hobbyists h=who go to the extent of removing the coral
to a small container of tank water outside the aquarium for
feeding>>
And I have been putting some Cyclops-eeze in a turkey
baster and shooting it at the sun coral.
<<Can be effective… Try
adding the frozen Mysis this way as well…with enough to keep the
shrimp occupied/away. The coral will likely need such direct
feedings at least 4-times a week...more if the polyps begin to
recede/disappear>>
Is that a good food for it?
<<Indeed>>
Thanks again guys
<<Quite welcome. EricR>> |
Sun Coral Help, fdg.
6/30/07
Hi guys!
I just purchased my first Sun Coral. It seems
very healthy with about 25 polyps on it. I have done my research and
understand that I need to feed it every 2 or 3 days and that it does not
need to be in strong light. I have placed it in the shadow of an
overhang at the bottom of my tank.
<I'd lean more towards every other
day. But some people get away with feeding less often.>
My only issue
is that it only comes out to feed when the lights are off. Otherwise it
stays tight inside. I have been feeding it in the night for now, but
have heard that they can be switched over from their nocturnal habits.
<Yes, they can be "trained" to expect food around a certain time.>
Can you give me some advise on HOW to do this?
<Just move the feeding
time slowly towards lights-on hours. Feeding it every day for several
days while it's in "training" might help the coral get used to the new
routine faster. It might also simply switch on its own if you usually
feed the tank during the day (especially if you feed around the same
time every day).>
Thanks!
Keith
<happy to help
Sara M.>
Re: coral advice... comp. f'? 3/21/07
Thanks Brandon, for the
quick and detailed response.
<No problem.>
After reading your
reply and researching further, I have come to the conclusion that this
is not the right coral for me, or rather; I am not the right keeper for
this coral.
<Sorry to hear that. They can be quite rewarding.>
But after more consideration, I think I would prefer to spend some time
to try to get this animal healthy, and sell or trade it to another
enthusiast who WILL make an appropriate keeper.
<There are quite a
few.>
If I just it back to the LFS they will likely just throw it
back in with their semi-cured Live rock.
<Not uncommon.>
Now,
unless another person spots it AND recognizes it AND is willing to make
the effort to properly maintain it, this would be basically like
throwing it away.
That just would not feel right.
<Agreed.>
Here is what I am considering: I have a 2.5 gallon HEX tank with UG
filter and lights. I would like to set up a solitaire habitat for this
coral, and spend the next few weeks giving the daily or bi-daily
feedings it requires.
I would like to use the 2.5 gallon for this,
but will never find a skimmer that would fit. I do think that it would
be easy enough to change 25 to 50 percent of the water two to three
times weekly. For filtration, I would be using an air driven UG plate
with a bio-pad from my existing filer placed underneath and cover it
with crushed coral. I have small submersible 50w heater that will fit in
the tank as well. This Sun Coral would be the only organism in this tank
and it will be a temporary situation.
<Hmmmm.>
Does this sound
like something that might work?
<I think that it would be easier on
you and the coral alike to try something a little different. Get a deep
bowl and place the coral in it. When you want to feed it all you have
to do is remove the bowl (water still inside), and feed it that
way. The left over food can be discarded, and you can then place the
bowl with the coral in it, back into the tank. This method was proposed
to me when I was inquiring about keeping Tubastrea
Micracantha. Brandon.>
Green Tubastraea sp. Captive Care of
Tubastraea micrantha 2/4/07
Hello All!
<Greetings! Mich here.>
Recently, after some extensive research I
have decided to purchase a nice piece of Sun Coral. My hesitation was
due to the fact that each polyp needed to be fed quite regularly.
<Regular feeding is imperative.>
I began shopping for a Sun Coral
recently and came across a dark green one! I have never seen one or even
heard of it in such a color. I purchased it after taking the advise of
the LFS's manager that it was no different than the other Sun Corals. My
question basically is, was he right?
<Not so much. It is in the same
genus, but the species is different. It sounds like you have Tubastraea
micrantha. It could possibly be Tubastraea diaphana, but I will assume
it is the former. More info here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm
This coral has a
notoriously poor survival record and requires a very fast current and
large amounts of food. I do hope you have a great protein skimmer.>
I have tried researching on the Internet and yes, WetWebMedia.com and
was not able to find any one mention a Sun Coral of this color,
although, there was a website with professional photography of reefs
around the world showing a green Sun Coral similar to mines, but no
mention of it otherwise.
The coral came with some smaller
YELLOW polyps beginning to grow around it. I will be feeding this coral
at least three times a week or can I cut down on the feedings.
<Should be fed daily.>
I culture my own phytoplankton and add about
one full plastic cup a day, 1/2 in the morning and 1/2 at night, can
this substitute the feedings?
<Malnutrition is the biggest challenge
these corals face in captivity, daily targeted feedings with mysids,
diced fish, and zooplankton soaked in Selcon would be most appropriate.>
In addition, I have been getting conflicting information on where I
can place the coral, in caves, dark areas, or in a lighted area?
<Where it can be most easily fed without getting so much light that it
get overgrown with algae.>
I would have liked to place the coral
higher up in my 24" tall 90 gallon tank where water flow is more
abundant, only problem is, I'm afraid the 150w halides may burn the
coral?
<Shouldn't burn it. I'd be more concerned about water flow
and feedings.>
Just so you know, I have an LPS dominant tank, 90
gallons with a 50 gallons tank used as a refuge with Caulerpas and
Chaetomorpha.
Thank you for any advice you can provide.
<Hope
you're up for a challenge my friend! -Mich>
Sun Coral fdg. and Hitchhiker Soft Coral ID 1/25/07
Hi Bob,
<Debra>
Regarding that red macroalgae that you thought might be
a Galaxaura and a possible cold water macroalgae, since I paid $30
for it I took it back for credit and ended up getting a sun coral
that came in on their Tuesday shipment. I asked about it and was
told, "Easy to care for, just put it in a cave."
<?...>
After getting it home I started reading all about it and thought,
"What have I gotten myself into now!" Anyway, I've been doing lots
of research and reading forums.
<Better to do ahead of time my
friend>
I've had the coral for about a week now. It actually
came on a piece of shell as opposed to a piece of rock, which had
made handling and placement very difficult. Last night I finally
used a mix of Marineland Hold Fast (which by itself doesn't work
well) and Loctite Super Glue Gel to place it on a small Tonga
branch. This will keep the babies near the edge out of the sand and
give it a more stable base. During this process a small corner of
the shell broke and a small brownish fuzzy slime was
attached. Could I possibly have damaged the coral there?
<Mmm,
maybe... but not likely>
None of the coral was detached, just
a small corner of shell underneath. The all appear to be healthy...
for now. There is no discoloration at the base, so far it's all a
peachy/pink color with no gray or black spots.
I tried counting
how many there are in this colony but stopped at 35. For feeding I
basically took the recipe from your book using frozen shrimp, a
small piece of red snapper filet I had in the freezer, oysters (not
frozen), and a couple cubes of mysis shrimp and brine shrimp all
blended in a processor; placed in egg crate to form cubes and then
frozen. At feeding time I grate a cube into a small cup and mix in
some Cyclop-Eeze or Sweetwater Zooplankton and Selcon. Last Friday
(1/19) I just started adding Kent Coral-Vite and Live Farms
BioPlankton, which I plan to continue once weekly. I also plan to
purchase this weekend some DT Phytoplankton.
<Mmm... don't eat
phytoplankton...>
Because this is a 10-gallon tank I'm
concerned about waste in the tank
<Me too... very easy to
pollute>
so I currently have rigged a plastic cereal container
cut to a depth of 5 inches with suction cups that I place the coral
in (keeping all in the tank-nothing exits the water) and then attach
the container to the inside of the tank glass so the edge of the
container is just above the tank water level. Then I feed them
inside the container. My confusion comes in with all the different
things I've read. I see feeding requirements varying anywhere
between twice daily to once weekly.
<Mmm, 2-3 times/week is
likely about right... can get by on once>
Based on what I read I
also thought they ate pretty fast.
<Not really... once each
polyp is open... a few tens of minutes likely>
A really
helpful site with pictures was at
http://www.melevsreef.com/suncoral.html.
<Thank you for
this>
But he said his corals ate a cube of food in 10 minutes
and he feeds them once a week. Another site mentioned something
about 'slimed the food so they could eat'. And most everything I
read gave the impression that these guys eat fairly fast. So until
yesterday I've been letting them sit there for 30 minutes, didn't
think they were eating and then put them back in the tank;
<Mmm... you will/would actually witness the feeding...>
thinking
they might still be getting adjusted and wouldn't eat. After seeing
that bit about slime, I watched them more closely last night. They
were in the container last night from lights out at 6:30 to 9:00
p.m. and they were still eating. These guys are super slow eaters.
Is that normal?
<Depending on "circumstances", yes>
I did
notice that the water around them seemed to change and food seemed
to float around them. I previously thought it was something in the
food I mixed up that caused the sliminess and that I was polluting
the water around them. So consequently I was using a turkey baster
to blow it off them. (Duh) What exactly is their feeding process?
<Polypoid... filter out suspended zooplankters mostly>
How does
this slime aid them in eating?
<Helps them to glom onto with
their tentacles>
Around the middle of their feeding time I begin
stirring up the food that has settled on the container bottom and
siphon some of it out with a turkey baster, replacing lost water
with water from the tank. This stirred food gets circulated around
the colony and trapped within so they continue feeding. I notice
that they swell up a lot like a balloon being blown up. Do you know
why that is?
<Activity... food stimulation>
Is this normal
as well?
<Yes>
Especially after feeding and they're placed
back on the substrate. I have not yet seen their polyps fully
extended, just little bits here and there poking out. I'm also
concerned about this nightly moving them about.
<Not to be>
Once I know they're eating well and seem to be settled in I would
like to try using the 'hat' method for feeding. Do you think that
might cause a nutrient issue in my small tank?
<Oh yes. Easily>
A staff person at the LFS said he has Sun Coral in a 3-1/2 gallon
and that I'm too paranoid.
<... I disagree>
That I should
use a product by Seachem in a filter bag that absorbs nutrients from
the water, which will turn to brown (possibly Purigen). The product
is then soaked in bleach for cleaning and then soaked in Seachem
Prime to remove the chlorine. Do you recommend that?
<Is worth
trying here>
Or am I right at being concerned about excess
nutrients in the tank?
<Yes>
My only other tank inhabitants
are a cleaner shrimp L. amboinensis, and typical clean up crew. I'm
still considering what fish to get and I'm considering a
Cardinalfish, either Pajama or Orange striped, and maybe a blenny.
I'm still researching. Your advice on this would be very welcome.
<Is posted... this tank is too small for any but a very small
species that doesn't move around much>
The Yellow Clown Goby I
had even though I upped his feeding to hourly and he was eating kept
losing weight.
<Gobiodon are SPS, mainly Acropora spp. obligate
corallivores...>
I had a lot of copepods and he was snacking on
them too, but he didn't make it. So as much as I'd love to have a
clown goby I'm afraid to try again.
<Not suitable here...>
Today I went to the LFS to see if I could find a small piece of live
rock I could use to make a longer ledge over the sun coral (although
they don't seem to be bothered by the lighting- 40W PC 50/50) I did
find the perfect size rock for that, but also found a small rock
with soft coral on it at the bottom of the bin and purchased both
for $3. The coral was laying/flopped on its side. I set up a 1-1/2
gallon tank with some PVC pipe and egg crate shelf to place them on
and used a mix of water from my 10-gallon tank and premixed change
water. I placed the rocks in there. no, I did not acclimate the
coral. started the nano filter put in some Live Farms BioPlankton
and put a 13W 50/50 light over the tank. Within a minute they both
raised up. Is this Capnella?
<Might well be>
Is this
(hopefully) a photosynthetic coral?
<Is>
I also had them
place on hold green star polyps and eventually plan to get some
zoanthids. If it is Capnella, is it a peaceful type? For a small
tank I'd prefer not to have WWIII in there.
<Is peaceful
enough... given care in assembling small colonies, good husbandry...
you should be fine here>
Thank you again for all your help.
Regards, Debra P.
<Thank you for sharing your adventure,
odyssey. Bob Fenner> |  
|
Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea 12/16/06
Hi guys
and gals!
<Hello there Lisa, Mich here.>
Once again, thank you
for taking the time to review and respond to my question. I always
appreciate it.
<You are quite welcome. The pleasure is mine.>
I've had this coral for about a month now. I was told it was a fire
coral.
<Mmm, nope.>
But it doesn't look like any of the fire
corals I've seen, and it doesn't seem to sting.
<Mmm, because it's
not.>
I'm also not sure it's doing well.
<Doesn't look real
happy.>
It doesn't seem to change much but I've noticed one of the
corals seems to be receding.
<Yes, that appears to be the case.>
Since I can't really identify it, I'm not sure of it's flow, lighting
and feeding needs.
<Best to educate yourself before assuming
responsibility for any living creature.>
I'm hoping you experts
will know and will tell me what I need to do.
<This is a coral in
the genus Tubastraea, commonly called a sun coral. It is
non-photosynthetic, meaning that it cannot get any of its' energy
requirements from the sun or artificial lighting. Kind of ironic that
it is called a sun coral. It must be feed regularly by it's
caretaker. Mysid shrimp soaked in a vitamin supplement such as Selcon
would be ideal. The feeding should be done after the tank lights go
off. It may take several days of attempted feedings before the polyps
open, especially in this situation where there is this much tissue
recession. Eventually it will automatically extend its' polyps when the
lights go out in anticipation of its' next meal. It should be placed in
an area where it receives good water flow. It can be placed in a well
lit area, but doesn't need to be as long as the water flow
is decent. It is a beautiful coral, but will need some dedication on
your part to bring it back to health.
Thanks,
<You're welcome.
-Mich>
Lisa | Re: Feed me
Seymore: Starving Tubastraea 12/16/06
Hi again THANK
YOU SO MUCH for your reply.
<Hello Lisa, Mich here again. You
are quite welcome.>
If this coral does not depend on the light,
I assume it's location in the tank (currently high up nearer to the
light) is <not?> as important?
<This coral will not benefit or
be harmed by any light it receives. It does require good water
movement.>
Can this coral be placed on the substrate?
<Certainly.>
Do I need to use a dome to feed it?
<No. Turn
off you circulation and use a turkey baster to gently blow the Mysid
over the polyps, with time, the polyps will open and a Pavlovian
conditioned response should develop, especially if you do this
consistently after lights go out.>
Thanks again,
<Welcome -Mich>
Lisa
Your edification: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dendrophylliidae.htm |
Re: Feed me Seymore: Starving Tubastraea 12/17/06
Thanks Mich.
<You are very welcome.>
While the lights were
out, I relocated the colony <Tubastraea / sun polyp> to a less
intensely lighted area and offered it some smashed Mysid in
Selcon. Just a test of course, night is optimum. Polyps did
open!
<Yay! This is terrific news.>
We'll do as
instructed.
<Excellent.>
With appreciation,
<Thank you
for the follow up. -Mich>
Lisa | 
|
Double Tubastrea
feeding - 5/19/2006
Hello,
I did a lot of
search, but couldn't find information on how to feed big Tubastrea
(it doesn't fit 2L bottle hut), two
colonies together, connected
by live tissue, cupped shape, and it tends to become a ball shape.
Image attached, more on
http://community.webshots.com/album/550490835hrPkpG (to save
your bandwidth).
<Thank you for this... and does appear to be a
nice, healthy colony>
Most of polyps are not oriented up - to
feed individually, and food just slides down to the bottom. 1 gal
bottle "hut"
could work if the colony was flat, placed on the
sand, so food will not flow out from the bottom part of the hut.
Placing bottom polyps facing the sand will cause their death
(starvation or suffocation).
<Likely so in time>
And how to
remove excess of food after feeding is finished - floating particles
and some excess are always left. Too much
for my nano-tank to
handle.
<Bingo>
Tried to remove and feed Tubastrea in
separate bowl, very time consuming and I think that exposing coral
to the air
when returning in the tank from the food saturated
water will do no good in the long term.
<Agreed>
Now
Tubastrea is in separate pico-tank permanently, with few partial
water changes after each feeding (again, partial
because of
possible air exposure). Still, it's very annoying for both - coral
and me.
<... perhaps a larger system?>
I asked on forums
about dividing colonies and did a web search - without success. Now
even dividing will not help -
both parts tend to become of ball
shape, with a lot of polyps facing sideways and down.
Can you
advice some approach in solving this problem?
Thanks, Elena.
P.S. I have a nice red Bryozoan - can I send it's picture for your
Bryozoan page, may be you'll post some info on them?
<Certainly,
thank you for this/these>
<I would support this piece on a
section of cut PVC pipe of sufficient height, feed it as you state
by covering, introducing foods during the early evening (when the
polyps will open and you can be there to remove the cover
afterwards...). In the long-er term, a larger, perhaps more
specialized setting (large refugium) for this Dendrophylliid... Bob
Fenner> |
|
Feeding Sun coral 3/20/06
Hello,
<Hello!>
I
bought some Cyclops for this awesome looking coral!!! When they open up
should I blow a puff of this food with my turkey blaster on top of the
coral? Or do they get enough food in the water with the DT I'm feeding
my clam, or should I target feed?
<I would absolutely target feed
this coral. Your method of using a turkey baster is what I use and
seems to work pretty well. A mix of DT's and Cyclop-eeze should be
enough to feed this critter, however you could also make you own feed
mash of fresh or frozen chopped up in a blender. This may be better for
you and cheaper in the long run.>
Thanx for your time!!!
<No
problem. Enjoy and have fun, Jen S.> Tubastrea on Oyster
12/12/05
Howdy, <Hello Mike>
I purchased a Tubastrea Sun
Coral a few weeks ago after doing some research about it. I put it in
the QT, and began to feed it. It opened up to eat after almost no
effort. Then, much to my chagrin, the rock it was on also opened
up. It appears the rock is a kind of bivalve resembling the Honeycomb
Oysters on page 225 of your "Reef Invertebrates", book.
So, how
difficult to keep are these oysters? Do you have any tips for
keeping it healthy? <Mike, oysters do rather poorly in reef tanks as
they are filter feeders and require food on a daily basis. Here is a
link with more info for you. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bivalvia.htm>
Also, I have an 11 day vacation in one month, can the Tubastrea go
for 11 days without direct feeding? <I think that would be pushing it, I
wouldn't. I've heard of people keeping them for over a year feeding
DT's Live Phytoplankton two or three times a week.><<Really? RMF>> The
procedure to feed is so complex, after all you've got to spray with
juice, wait 10 minutes to open, feed each polyp, don't overfeed. I
think my friends are very lazy, and I want them to do as little as
possible to my fish tanks. <Mike, I think you will just have to find a
good nanny. I'm posting a link on Sun Corals, FAQ's on feeding etc that
you may find helpful. http://www.google.com/custom?q=Sun+Coral&sa=Google+Search&sitesearch=wetwebmedia.com>
Thanks, <You're welcome and Happy Holidays to you. James (Salty Dog)>
Mike Feeding Tubastrea Sun Coral
Do you have any tips
on feeding a sun coral (Tubastrea)?
I can't seem to get the polyps
to extend so I can feed it.
Thanks, Alan
<much has been written on
this subject abroad on the 'Net. I also have a section in my book (Coral
Propagation) for feeding Tubastrea with a slurry in a basin. For
starters, train the polyps to open by simply putting a little bit of
meaty juice (tablespoon) from thawed frozen food (Mysis shrimp) into the
tank at the same time every night. Do this for a week or two until the
animals is trained to open and wait at that time. Then introduce meaty
fare (yes... Mysis is a great start). Target feed with a saltwater
slurry... or put the coral in a floating cup several times weekly and
concentrate the food (to prevent overfeeding the tank) Best regards,
Anthony Calfo> Sun Polyps
Hi Anthony.
<hello, dear>
Just wanted to say that I love your book. I wish it would have come out
before I set up my tank.
<thank you... do share you knowledge with
others as always>
I really like all the aquascaping ideas. I'm sure
my husband is going to hate them, well at least the tanks that follow!
So my question is about my sun polyps.
<I assume that we are talking
about Tubastrea and not the zoantharian, Protopalythoa. Both called sun
polyps>
I can't get them to grab any food. I've tried your idea of
feeding them in a small container. I take a turkey baster and create
some water movement, still no pretty flower polyps come out. How long
should I keep trying this before I give up?
<never give up... its
just that so many are so starved for so long on import that they take
weeks of daily stimulation before they open again. Save some money on
food and simply squeeze/crush a krill or shrimp head (seriously) in the
feeding bowl every night at the same time. Do be VERY consistent with
this. These corals have demonstrated a clear response to punctual
feeding cycles. I suspect yours will open within two weeks. Do follow up
to tell us if it does not>
Could MH lighting hurt this little guy in
the long run?
<absolutely not. Light has nothing to do with their
health. A number of them do occur in full sun... they simply cannot
compete with nuisance algae very well... hence why so many live under
overhands>
The coral still looks healthy. The polyps retracted look
full. They don't look caved in like at some of the pet shops around
here. I've only have them for about a week.
<have patience... you
will have great fun with this beauty in the future. After it comes
around... start soaking the food in Selcon or some other like HUFA
rich/fatty supplement for health vigor and spawning. Also, pursue the
information from Joe Yaillo (NY) in the bibliography of my book. He
wrote an outstanding article on breeding the orange sun coral>
Enlighten me!
<enlighten you...hmmmm: Confucius say... man who stands
on toilet is high on pot>
Thanks Lots!-Becky
<my pleasure. Anthony
Calfo> Feeding Tubastrea sun coral 3/11/04
Hi, how often
do I have to feed the Sun Coral (Tubastrea)? And, what types of food are
best? Cyclop-eeze? Thanks, Adam
<Cyclop-eeze is an excellent food,
but cannot be used alone like any whole food (limited in various
nutrients/vitamins). Offer your Tubastrea a variety of 4-6 meaty foods
of marine origin (mysids, Pacifica plankton, minced krill, etc) several
times weekly. And be sure to feed each polyp... they are individuals and
not colonial. There are many interesting feeding tricks for Tubastrea
(feeding hats, removal to feeding cups for slurries, etc). This coral is
best kept in a species tank... they are too hard to feed in a typical
reef tank of zooxanthellate corals without ruining water quality or
starving the sun coral. This coral has been spawned many times in
captivity. Do research more on the subject. Kindly, Anthony>
Tubastrea Food
I have had a Tubastrea, (orange cup) for about a
year now. It has slowly died off from lack of food on my part. I'm not
only afraid to pollute the tank with daily 'injections', but it's really
no easy task to get to it.
I am on a crusade now however to save it.
First of all, how hard should the water flow be for this guy?
<Medium
currents should be fine. If you would like me to try to be more
specific, around 3" of water should pass by the coral in a time frame of
1 second, Meaning that that water would travel 3" every second.>
I do
have a powerhead about 2 feet away from it, so that the water just sort
of flows over it. Does it need a strong current?
<Strong current
isn't needed.>
Next, what is the best food to feed it, Phytoplex
Phytoplankton, or, could I pulverize some frozen food and add Reef Plus
with vitamins and amino acids, by Seachem?
<The Tubastrea is not a
herbivore, therefore phytoplankton based foods would not benefit the
coral very much. I would recommend you feed it brine shrimp, shrimp,
diced fish, and squid 3x weekly. Remember to feed each polyp rather than
one or two individuals. You may want to look into creating a feeding
cap. This can be made by cutting a 2L soda bottle in half (keep the side
with the cap). You would want to first drill a small hole in the cap.
Once the hole is drilled, you may take a few feet of tubing and stick
one end of the tubing through the hole you have drilled. Now, you will
see half of the 2L bottle and some tubing coming out of the cap. On the
end of the tubing, you may want to have a syringe attached. Once the
syringe is attached, you're done. You can then place this "Feeding cap"
over the Tubastrea. Then, suck some DT's live phytoplankton or any other
foods in the syringe and inject it into the tubing (which is connected
into the bottle). The food will then be injected into the bottle for the
Tubastrea to feed on. As I stated above, be sure to also try to inject
some meaty foods into the mouths of the Tubastrea. If you need any
further instructions on how to make this feeding cap, please do not
hesitate to email one of us back.>
As always, it's a pleasure to chat
with all of you at WWM! I really enjoy it!
<Thanks! Take Care,
Graham Stephan.>
Pam Re: Tubastrea food
Sounds like a
great idea, but when you say DT's live phytoplankton, is that the same
as Phytoplex Phytoplankton??
<No. DT's phytoplankton is live
phytoplankton, unlike Phytoplex. Phytoplex is dead phytoplankton which
won't benefit the coral very much.>
Just want to be sure I order the
right product!
thank you
<No problem!>
Pam
Take Care,
Graham Stephan Re: Tubastrea food
Ahhhhh, I see. Okay,
one more thing about these phytoplankton. You say that Tubastrea are NOT
plant eaters. But, phytoplankton are microscopic plants that live in the
ocean,.. can you explain this?
<Earlier I stated that phytoplankton
wouldn't benefit the coral that much. I then used phytoplankton as an
example for what you could inject into the feeding cap. Phytoplankton is
often used to feed some species of non photosynthesis gorgonians,
tunicates, or sponges, which is why I used it as an example. In the same
sentence I also implied that you could also inject other types of foods
into the feeding cap. I was trying to use phytoplankton of just an
example of what you can inject into the "feeding chamber," rather than
what you should feed as the corals food source. I apologize if I was
unclear and my message sounded misleading, but was not my intention. I
hope this helps! If you have any further questions please do not
hesitate to email one of us back.>
Graham Stephan
WWM Crew
Thanks,
Pam Question about sun polyps
Hi
<< Hi.
>>
I searched your faq to see if anyone else had asked this but
couldn't find what I need to know. I did get lots of knowledge about
the sun polyps, at least enough to know the guy at the fish store lied
when he said they were for beginners.
I have two of them. I was
going to put them in a tiny cube tank by themselves, but I'm having
problems setting that tank up so they are now in my Nano cube with my
other 3 corals and 4 fish. I was reading that they like current, so I
placed one near the water return intake and one in the center of the
tank in kind of a little cave-like area. They poof up at night and
wiggled a lot the first couple days but didn't open with flowers. I
tried feeding lots and now the one in the center of the tank opens
completely late afternoon after I turn off the tank light for the
night. That one is peachy color. The other one is a darker red-orange
and while it poofs way up and wiggles, only one or two of the little
"hands" come out.
Does this mean it is not
feeding? << I think the key to sun polyps is feeding. I live close to
the "The Sun Polyp Goddess" and I've seen her tanks many times. She
feeds them directly with like an eye dropper twice a day. Usually after
feeding the rest of the tank, which get the polyps in a feeding state as
they smell food. Then she carefully drops food onto each individual
polyp. Yes time consuming. >> Why would one open and not the other?
Is the current too strong for the one that won't open (the red-orange
one) and should I move it closer to my other coral. << Well the color
difference is probably a lighting difference. The water flow idea is
that these polyps need food. So they need current to bring them
food. However, they can grow just fine in caves without any current, as
long as you feed them. So the current is only part of the issue, does
that make sense? >>
These are my favorite corals in the
tank and I want to keep my little pets alive and happy. If I can get
the little cube tank going is that a good place for them to be? << Sure,
they do fine anywhere, as long as they get attention. >> They would be
by themselves and I could feed
them daily. Right now I'm trying to
feed them every other day.
<< Yep just keep feeding them. >>
Thanks for any help.
Alexandra
<< Blundell >>
Feeding Tubastraea
Good morning, <Good evening Alex>
I got one
of these corals and I was wondering, I'm feeding it out side of the tank
in a plastic cup. How long should it be in that cup, he feeds really
slow??? <I would really be concerned about taking him out of the tank to
feed him. If nothing else after an amount of time you would get
temperature fluctuation.> I fed him yesterday for the first time and he
was still eating after 20 min, then I put him in the tank with a feeding
hat (cool idea I got from your web site)<Good to know it helped.> I
didn't want my fish to eat his food, 4 hrs later he had finished. I do
not know how long should he be out from the tank. I have him in side the
tank under some live rock. He has some light but not to much. Does he
need to be in total darkness??? <It does not need to be in darkness or
sunlight, since it's non-photosynthetic. It really wouldn't respond any
different to either situation. I have mine located at the front of the
tank so I can check for polyp extension. Good luck, MacL>
Thanks
Tubastraea coral, again.
Hello again, <Hi again Alex>
I'm
sorry, but I'm new on this coral. <Not a problem that's what I'm here
for.> When you meant polyp extension that means they only open when
there hungry???<I generally feed to get the polyp extensions and yes
when I see polyp extension on mine I try to feed it. It responds then
when I can see it. And I know it gets all the food. I also try to feed
each polyp individually.> And how many times do you feed yours a
week??? <Probably 5 times a week.> Thank you so much. <I hope I have
helped you with this. I'd like to recommend Anthony Calfo's Coral Reef
Propagation book and Eric Borneman's Aquarium Corals. They are such
amazing reference books.> Tubastraea Or Sun Corals
Hello, <Hi Alex, MacL here>
I wanted to buy the beautiful
Tubastraea coral!!! But I was reading that they are very hard to feed.
<They do need consistent feeding. But I wouldn't call them very hard to
feed. Its just important that you feed every single polyp.>
If I
should get one, what would be the best way to feed them??? <There are
wonderful directions for a feeding cap
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corlfdgfaq3.htm, I think you will find
this cap very useful to feed hard to feed creatures like the sun
corals.> Thanks Tubastrea Feeding Tips
hey
guys,
<Hi! Ryan with you today>
Thanks for all the help in the
past it's helped myself and many others out tremendously. <Glad to hear
it> Unfortunately I'm going to have to bug you again. <Why I'm here> I
have some orange cup corals of the non photosynthetic kind. <Gotcha>
There are a couple different variations of the species so I'll just give
you the name I've been using for ID. <My advise when it comes to the
species names of lower inverts is to take all with a grain of salt...>
It's a Tubastrea coccina that is an LPS coral my problem is I don't know
what to feed it. I've been using invertebrate foods such as PhytoPlex,
ChromaPlex, and Zooplex on varying cycles but it doesn't seem to be
keeping them in good health. <All bottled supplements with little
benefits- You'll need to get some frozen high quality foods, as well as
some decent coral food like Coral Heaven or Cyclop-eeze. These guys are
quite the feeders- They'll require feeding every other day to flourish>
I have two of these corals and they're mounted under a ledge in my
aquarium just like in nature. <Feed them Mysis shrimp with tweezers>
I've read that you need to target feed these types of corals, but I've
also read that you don't and if you do what can I feed them? <See above>
I've also tried feeding my fish at night when its polyps star to emerge
so it can catch some of the fishes food but that I don't think is
working too well either. <Nope, you'll need to target feed them. If you
cut the top off a 2-liter soda bottle, you can put this around your
polyps and then use a feeding syringe to really give them a decent
chance at eating> I really don't want to lose this coral so I'd
appreciate any info you have on them. I also seem to be having a micro
bubble problem in my tank. I have a CPR overflow box that drains the
water to my refugium/sump. Problem is it keeps blowing tiny bubbles down
into my sump and creating a really annoying salt creep problem all
around the top where the big bubbles pop and slash and such. Any simple
remedies like egg crate on the surface of the water? <Sometimes a piece
of bridal veil netting somewhere in the line to the sump can help-
Really it's just fine tuning. Tinker, tinker my friend. Have a good one,
Ryan> I don't know. Please help out. Chris aka fishtank Feeding
sun polyps
Hope you guys and girls get this, having some
problems getting through to you. I bought a sun polyp from my LFS, they
forgot to tell me how difficult feeding this beautiful invert is (should
have done some research). What I did was cut the bottom out of a
margarine tub and when he comes out (usually 30 minutes after lights
out) I place the tub over the animal and squirt zoo plankton inside the
tub and every polyp eats. << Good idea. >> I was worried about too many
nutrients flooding the entire tank, but this works great for me and the
sun polyp. This has got to be one of the most beautiful inverts that I
have seen. I thought you might want to pass this on to others and it
could help with the flooding of food while feeding these creatures. <<
Will share this info, thanks. >>
Thanks Jerry S.
<< Blundell >> Tubastrea sun polyp feeding/dying 11/28/04
My little sun polyps are coming out to feed easily now, but the pale
orange one does better than the red-orange one. The area around the
red-orange one is turning white (with two of the little polyps
completely gone...
<clearly sounds like those polyps are starving...
need more food or the right kind/size of food. Do try/use Cyclop-eeze as
a primary staple... really outstanding for these corals>
that was an
area pushed up against the sand where they could not feed),
<move
the coral my friend or make a feeding hat (do a keyword search for
"Tubastrea feeding hat")>
but I am concerned about the rest of the
polyps because many of them seem to have this white (it's hard) stuff
around them.
Is the entire coral dying?
<the white
is starving polyps/bleached>
If so, what did I do wrong?
<you
can save these polyps in mere months with resumed feeding>
Alexandra
Re: question about sun polyp
Thank you so much for your help
with my little sun polyps.
<Anthony is out...>
I have moved them
to a little cube tank by themselves and am feeding them with the filter
off.
<Good>
I have one more question if you don't
mind.
I am feeding them a mixture of frozen Cyclop-eeze mixed with
phytoplankton and they seem to love it. I am using an eye dropper and
squirting it right on top of each polyp.
<Okay>
How
often should I feed them since they were starving and want to save them?
<About every other day is fine. This predaceous coral does not need that
much actual food, and it's best to be on guard re the possibility of the
ill-effects of overfeeding. Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Alexandra
Feeding Turbinaria
Dear Crew
< Hi >
I have had a Turbinaria
in my tank for some time now (12 weeks). In all this time its polyps are
just coming out but never fully. I have a calcium reactor and my water
parameters are as follows
pH 8.4
mg 1100
Calcium 440
phosphates 0.08
hardness 12 DKH
Lighting 3 60W fluorescents
1
actinic blue (60W)
1 T5 lamp (80W) on for 12 hours
The coral is
placed 6ins from the top in medium flow.
I have started to offer meat
juice and phyto to this coral at lights out on a daily basis to no
avail. The polyps remain retracted. Before this I was offering
zooplankton and phyto twice a week. Any ideas as to what maybe going
wrong? Could the coral be laying down deposits and not ready for
feeding??
< Possible. I almost wonder if it would do even better
tucked away down lower under a ledge. I know that the "sun polyp
goddess" uses a long straw to feed her Turbinaria frozen brine shrimp.
Maybe try that. Otherwise, keep good water chemistry and wait it out. >
PS I regularly dose daily with iodine and strontium too. Any help
greatly appreciated.
< Blundell > Feeding
Turbinaria continued
Thanks for the info I have moved the coral
to midway down my tank, still in medium flow over a branch rock
overhang. I am keeping my calcium at a constant 440ppm with Kalkwasser
additions to see if that will coax the polyps out to feed. Not to
question you chaps but the coral is a Turbinaria sp, not Tubastrea the
non photosynthetic species I have.
< Very similar requirements and
feeding for these corals. I think the lower light, overhang, with food
is my advise. >
I believe Turbinaria is a wide ranging
photosynthetic species, which tolerates a wide range of spectrums.
<
Yes it does. I think (and I could certainly be wrong) that it will be
more likely to actively feed if it can't get all its energy needs from
light. >
Does the polyp extension need to be a common feature with
this coral day to day?
< Surprisingly this coral will open for a few
days, then stay closed up for a few days. I don't really understand
that. >
I will keep you posted on events. I am trying feeding during
the day, at lights out and just before lights out. Any further info
appreciated
< Well here is my other thought. I wouldn't worry about
it. If it doesn't open up, oh well. I think it can and will do fine with
healthy water regardless of its amount of feeding. >
< Blundell >
Re: Turbinaria peltata
Dear Bob,
Thanks for the reply. I
believe we have some confusion. I constantly have to add buffer to
maintain my tank at the normal to high level as per my Red Sea Test Kit.
This kit only gives a general low/normal/high coloration scale. No
numerical values are given. I try to keep it at the high normal to low
high reading. According to my LFS, this is about 10/12 DKH. My thoughts
were as follows. Three things to affect the corals' current condition.
Food - Since I am feeding a mixture of products at three to four
times per week and it readily accepts whatever I feed it, I have
eliminated this as the causation. More on this below.
Lighting
- I only had 100 watts of light previously. My feeling was that maybe
this may be the reason for the receding tissue. I had wanted to upgrade
my lighting, so I purchased a 260 watt Coralife unit.
<This by
itself will "do it"... burn the specimen as you sent the pic>
Water Flow - I only have the Emperor 400 on this half of the
tank. It produces a slight waving of the polyps. I have a HOT Magnum on
the other end of the tank also. It has the swivel head on the exit and I
switch it from one side to the other at least two/three times per day to
get some random turbulence. I was thinking of adding another power head
to the lower portion of the tank on this side also. However, I want to
see if the lights make an improvement. Changing too many things at one
time increases the number of variables. No way of knowing what actually
helped.
<I agree>
More questions on Coral Feeding: After months of
reading WetWebMedia, CMA and Reef Invertebrates, I have some questions
of coral feeding. Please excuse me if I missed it somewhere.
<Sure>
On plating types of Corals such as this T. peltata that have numerous
polyps, does each and every polyp have to receive nutrition in order to
survive, or is it simply a collection point?
<The latter>
For
example, if one area of the coral receives more nutrition because of
flow, location of polyps, will the polyps that receive the most
nutrition feed the entire colony and will the area that does not receive
as much food gradually recede away or not plate in that general area.
For example, the area that the tissue is receding is on the back side of
the coral and it is difficult to target feed.
I pose the same
question regarding the LPS corals such as the Mussidae corals. Will the
polyps that do not receive as much nutrition die in that general area,
or will the polyps that receive the most nutrition support the entire
colony.
Thanks, Dean
<Some Dendrophylliids (e.g. Tubastrea) need
to have each polyp fed, others share... the mussids inclusive. Bob
Fenner>
Turbinaria peltata Follow-up
Dear Bob and Crew,
<Dean>
I want to update you on the problem I was having with my Turbinaria
peltata. I am happy to report that the tissue has stopped
receding. It appears that the coral is starting to take back some
of the territory that it lost. There was some apparent light shock
after upgrading of my lighting. But I believe that the upgrade was
a positive move. I went from 100 watts to 260 watts.
<!>
Also, I have increased the number of times per week that I target
feed this coral. I am now feeding this coral at least three times
per week. Some weeks it gets target fed four times per week. I
believe all is good now.
<Good>
I do have some additional of
questions.
I had a coral put on hold for me at the LFS. I was
told by the assistant, who seems to be very knowledgeable, that it
was a Yellow Scroll Coral AKA Turbinaria reniformis. After some
research on your site, I came to the same conclusion. I also
decided that with my level of experience, and the steadily improving
conditions of my tank, this was a coral I could keep in my
system. However, I found some additional material on your site that
make me believe this identification my not be correct. I was
reviewing the section on "The Best Corals for Your Reef System" and
ran across the section on Montipora Corals. Specifically the
section of pictures "More Montiporas in Aquariums" I now believe
what I have is a Montipora. Could you please review the attached
picture and give me your opinion.
<This is Turbinaria... not an
Acroporid>
I have a mushroom in my tank that has grown to the
point that it is touching my brain coral.
<Best to separate...
ASAP>
The brain is losing this battle. My question is, can I
take a pair of scissors and trim off the offending edge of the
mushroom without hurting the mushroom.
<Best to
break it off and move, if you can't just re-arrange the rock it is
attached to... or move the Brain...>
It will be about one inch x
1/4" section that will be removed. And, if I cut this section up
into smaller pieces, will these pieces grow into another mushroom.
I dose my tank every evening with Kalk for my make-up water. My
drip mechanism leaves about 1 1/2" of fluid in the bottom of the
container.
Does this material need to be discarded every time or
can I add a little less Kalk and just add more water.
<Eventually has to be tossed, but not every time>
Thanks for
your kind assistance and happy reefing.
Dean
<Be chatting.
Bob Fenner> | 
|
Tubastrea feeding plan 4 April 2005
Hello Crew,
<Hi Alex,
MacL here with you tonight.>
I have a feeding plan that I would like
to try on my sun polyp coral! And I want you guys to tall me if It's a
good one. I would like to try coral vital and Cyclop-eeze mixed together
with tank water, when the polyps open, with a turkey blaster blow a puff
of food into a feeder hat. What do you guys think?
<I think it
sounds really nice. I use DT's and Cyclop-eeze the exact same way.>
Tubastraea Feeding follow-up 7 April 2005
Hello one more time
MacL <Hey!>
How do I know when my coral has finished eating? (I
know kind of a silly question). Not silly whatsoever, I generally judge
it done when all the food disappears in the cap but I have a friend who
leaves him on for an hour and no longer. His corals are thriving as
well. I think you can safely judge by how fast they eat and by how they
respond.> But I want to do this right.
Thanks again!!!
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