A Quick Question About Power Consumption For A 170g FOWLR – 07/02/08
Hello All,
<<Greetings Kevin>>
I'm sure this is answered somewhere on the site, but I'm in a bit of a time crunch and I haven't been able to locate it.
<<Okay>>
Some quick background - I'm in the process of finishing our basement and have framed out a spot for a 170 gallon fowler tank in one of the walls.
<<Neat!>>
The electricians are doing all the electric today
<<Uh-oh, then this is getting to you late…sorry about that. Most queries are answered the following day (sometimes all the Crew/Bob can do to keep up in the limited time available), unless a question is somehow flagged in the title as requiring immediate attention and catches someone’s eye>>
and they tossed me a curve ball by asking me how much electricity the various components would use. I was not prepared to answer this and I'm not sure where to start.
<<Could be calculated from the labels re…assuming all gear is present and you have a basic understanding of electricity>>
I'm planning to have a good size sump/fuge under the tank so I'll have two pumps, a light, heater, possibly a cooler and the lights for the display tank.
<<I see>>
How much electricity do I need to have to run those items and everything else that I'll need to plug in?
<<Even without the high energy lights of a reef tank, I would recommend a “minimum” of two “dedicated 20-amp circuits”…each terminated in a double-duplex GFCI setup>>
Everything I've read talks about the GFI outlets and drip loops, but nothing I saw talked about how much juice you need - or would want - if you were starting from scratch.
<<Not easily “specified” due to the varieties of size and system type…but a pair of 20-amp circuits should give you enough power even if you decide to go later with a reef tank. Unless you think you will also be “upsizing,” in which case I would add an extra circuit while it’s easiest to do so>>
If someone could shoot me back a guess at the anticipated wattage and amperage needs I would be extremely grateful. I'll keep looking in the interim.
Best,
Kevin
<<Apologies again for the delay…and good luck with your new install. EricR>>

Re: Setting Up a 90 FOWLR 4/17/03
It's the 150 gallon model skimmer. I will make that investment and get the remora pro. Will the AquaClear be too much skimmer for my q-tank? it's only 20 gallons. I had read that the snowflake eel would be happy and content in the 90g...when and to what size do you suggest I upgrade to? I thought I had done my research pretty well, and that the dwarf lion couldn't eat the blenny, or any of my other chosen fish. what would you suggest for a blenny replacement? I like the angel suggestion; I think I will go with the one you suggested. and I'll make sure to get more LR. thank you so much for your help!!!
>>Ok, this looks as though someone else has been working with you, and I'm a bit confused, as you're clearly answering questions from that person.  However, I've found it in my inbox, so I'll address what I can pick apart here.
>>There is no such thing, essentially, as "too much" skimmer for any system (toilet bowl effects aside).  Using a skimmer in quarantine is excellent.  
>I just set up a 90g FOWLR tank, my first ever. I am having a great time with it so far, but it was a store set up that I purchased and I have a few questions about it. I have an Eheim 2026 pro canister filter , a magnum H.O.T. for carbon, 4 inches of LS, 45 lbs. LR, and an AquaClear aquatics hang on protein skimmer. is this a good unit, or should I immediately replace it?
>>In my opinion, if you're using a deep sand bed, you'll only really need a mechanical filter, the Eheim is always a quality product.  However, the Magnum is also used with its diatom filter for "polishing".  Be careful with activated carbon, some lower quality brands will leach phosphates.
>I only have a maroon clown in the tank now, but eventually I want to have:1 maroon clownfish, 1 dwarf fuzzy lionfish, 1 black Sailfin blenny, 1 Singapore angel, 1 purple tang Is my filtration set-up good? it's been working great so far.
>>The Maroon clown may end up being your most aggressive fish.  If it should prove to be so, be prepared to remove it to its own tank until the less aggressive fishes are established.  As for the blenny, the lion could indeed decide to swallow it down, I'll suggest something like a Coris or Dragon wrasse, maybe a Marine Betta.  Anything peaceful that will be far too big for it to swallow.  That being said, the lion will also be timid, so you don't want anything too aggressive.
>question for you:  I have used Robert Fenner's book as my template for fishkeeping, but I have heard that there are some antiquated ideas in the book.  
>>Aside from particular advances in lighting, I have found nothing in the book that could really be considered "antiquated".  Since you're going with a FOw/LR, I wouldn't worry.  However, I am a huge proponent of having the best reference library possible, so I'll suggest you add tomes by other authors, "The Marine Aquarium Handbook", by Martin Moe, Jr. is excellent.  Other authors to look for are John Tullock, Rob Toonen, Anthony Calfo, and Julian Sprung.  This list is by NO means complete, just those whose names I can actually remember at the moment!
>are there any major revisions or points that I should eye critically?  I have also used Scott Michael's book, "Marine Fishes" to choose my fish and their food.  is this a good, up to date book?
>>I've learned of at least three people who have used his information to set up systems specifically for sharks and rays and have had DISMAL results.  Be careful.  I also hear it's a great reference book for fish I.D.  As I said, get books from many different authors, as well as perusing the different sites.  Along with WetWebMedia, we have the forums at http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk  and I personally am also associated with http://www.reefs.org  I hope this helps!  Marina

Making The Switch (To FOWLR)
Hello Guys
<Hi! Scott F. here for you today!>
I was considering moving my 60 gallon FOWI tanks to a FOWLR setup. I currently am using a coral substrate and want to get rid of this and use a sand bed instead as I read that it is much more stable in the nitrification process.
This is my setup...
Prime Canister filter
Power heads x 2
UGF filter
Air pump
Coral substrate
Some calcareous rocks from the sea
few damsels blennies and clowns
3 shrimp
1 anemone
I am currently looking out for a skimmer.
<Definitely an important acquisition!>
I am considering driving down to a spot on the reefs on the East coast to collect some Live Sand and rocks which a friend has directed me to go to. Will this be OK if quarantined properly ? There are no laws in this country regarding this coz saltwater hobbyists are extremely scarce.
<Well, I would still check, just to make sure. The real consideration when collecting from the wild is the impact on the environment from which you are collecting. Please be very conscientious of the potential for damage, and take only what you need. As far as handling- yes- you should employ the generally accepted procedures outlined here on WWM for handling, quarantining, and curing fresh live rock...Please think this over very carefully before collecting>
Will there be an ammonia spike if I do this ?
<In all likelihood, there will be some type of spike, due to the abundant nutrients that will be imported through fresh live rock and loss of sand bed....Monitor water chemistry very carefully, okay?>
Could you give a run down on what needs to be done to make the move. I will move my little ones to a quarantine tank before anything. Thank You. Personal Regards, Mark
<Well, Mark, I'd proceed slowly. I'd start by setting up a "holding tank" or facility for the fishes and other animals, then continue with the removal of most (not all) of the substrate, adding the new rock, and then carefully adding the live sand to a minimum depth of 3-4 inches (preferably more). You'd need to monitor the water chemistry for a few weeks to make sure that the nitrite and/or ammonia levels remain in check, and fall to undetectable levels before adding the fishes again. A protein skimmer is very important, as it will help process the abundant nutrients that will be introduced on the live rock...Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

125 FOWLR Set-up
I want to prepare you that this might be long but I am at wits end. My wife is after me to stop the research and go on. I admit I am confused but I might have not been giving my questions in detail.
<Alright Ed, relax, you are doing fine!  Tell your wife you love her very much, then give her the standard answer for anything technical or sports related.  You know what I mean?  She will understand. Do NOT ever forge ahead if you don't fully understand, especially in a marine tank.  No place for pressure.>
Anyhow, I have a 120 gal tank which will be FOWLR and aragonite sand. I have a single internal overflow with a 1.5 bulkhead and a Durso w/1.25 stand pipe. Underneath the bulkhead I can either drain 1.25 or 1.50 pvc to a 25 gal. sump which inside contains at the drain a 100 micron filter sock draining into the aqua-c ev180 skimmer pumped by a also submerged Sen 700g. Then through a baffle over carbon and to a ? pump for a single return which can go 1"-1.25"pvc before going to the 3/4" into tank with a Locline pipe with flare. the return will consist of 2-45 and 1-90 degree elbows.
<This is all good, sounds great! Plumb as large as possible, but no need to go larger than largest possible bulkhead size. IOW, if the bulkhead is 1.50", then a 2" pipe is a waste, as the pipe will only move whatever 1.50" pipe will move. I would make the most use of the larger return and split into two or more 3/4" Locline returns. Use PVC ball valves to control flow where you want it as well as AFTER pump to control flow as needed. The target flow rate for your tank (10-20 times) is 1250 to 2500 gph. Your 1.25 standpipe will drain about 800 gph +/-, so to get to 1250-2500 gph you need a minimum 1.5" overflow pipe size. Next, simply find the pump that will deliver 1250-2500 gph with ten feet of head. That's the chart at the manufacturer's sites or at the on-line dealer's site.>  
I want to go 10-20 more volume flow. Will a Iwaki md40rlxt work? or how about a Iwaki md 70rlt (RT).  Reef central says I have 10ft head loss with my piping and I will only use 4-5 ft of vertical pipe.
<A MD40RLXT will pump 1200 gph at 4' head, so it won't pump 10-20 times tank volume. A MD70RLT (All I have on-hand is a Champion catalog, no flow chart) will deliver 1500 gph at 4' head, *maybe* 1250 gph at 10', but doubtful. The MD 100 RLT delivers 2000 gph at 4' head, so you are in the ballpark for 1250 gph at 10'. Just cross-reference the head height (10 feet) and desired flow rate (1250-2500 phone the Iwaki flow chart, then pick the pump that delivers that desired flow! There is much more on FOWLR set-ups in the marine set-ups pages on WetWebMedia.com. Do take your time, only BAD things happen fast in this hobby!  Enjoy!  Craig>

A second look...
Dear WWM Crew-
<Hi Ryan, Don today>
First off, dear thanks for creating a fountain of knowledge in an easy to use format.  
<Yes, it is indeed an invaluable resource eh?>
I wanted to run through my new FOWLR system and hope you find the flaws while I am still in the semi planning stage.
<Fire away!   
I have (for better or worse) an Eclipse 25 gal.  I use RO water from a 5 stage I invested in, and use the Eclipse filtration.  I change the filter media weekly (after reading that the carbon is useless after the first few days). I also am making hood accommodations to fit a Bak Pak 2R skimmer.  I run 2 small powerheads.
<Sounds good. If you have the ability, you might consider 2 bags of carbon and alternate them every other week.>
I have a 3 inch bed of live sand (bio-active, about 40 pounds) and 30 pounds of live rock.  It's Tonga branch rock with a few large pieces of Fiji.  Due to size limitations of my apartment, I am not able to run a sump.
<I understand, I thought about it everyday when I had a 75 in an apartment. You might want to consider another inch or two of sand. More than 4" or less than 1" is recommended.>
Do you foresee any problems with the current level of filtration as long as I keep the bio-load low?
<Not at all. I would suggest regular weekly or twice weekly water changes as well>
The rock is now curing in my tank, so I wait patiently.  Invertebrates I would like to keep are a pair of fire shrimp and perhaps a pair of hermit crabs.  Do I need to worry about getting something in my sand to sift it?
<I would use a few snails, Cerith, Trochus, Nassarius, etc. A few of each for diversity>
As for fish, I have narrowed it down to probably just a dotty back or Gramma to start.  Do you have a recommendation from these families as to what would do well if kept solitary?
<I have had good luck with the royal Gramma. A colorful, interesting fish>
I currently test for nitrate, nitrite, ph, calcium, salinity and ammonia.  They all are in normal ranges for a curing tank.  Is there anything else I should be testing for in my system?
<As long as you keep up regular water changes with conditioned salt water, you should be OK.>
I know I should add iodine for the health and molting of my inverts, but is there a natural way to supplement this?  I don't like to play chemistry set with my tank if avoidable.    
<Understood. I do not dose any iodine and my peppermint and cleaner shrimp molt like clockwork every 3-4 weeks. Again, the water changes will take care of this.>
Also, I have a 10 gallon in the closet that I use as a quarantine tank.  For a tank my size, how beneficial would it be to attempt a refugium?   
<I think a refugium will benefit any system. More volume, a place to raise critters and macro algae, I would do it. Just make sure you have something on hand for QT.>
And finally, I do eventually plan on keeping corals, just not until my tank is really successful at this level.  Are there steps I can take now to ensure that my transition to corals is a simple one?   
<Learn how to keep the water quality high. It sounds easy, but can be a challenge. When you add corals, you will want to test for alkalinity as well as calcium>
Thank you for the advice,
<No problem, let us know how it goes>
Ryan

FOWLR Upgrade Time!
Hello,
<Hey there! Scott F. with you today>
I need some help, first let me start off by telling you little about my tank set-up. I have a 60 gallon FOWLR tank. I have 2x55 watt Compact lights/sump/UV light. I am looking into buying another Skimmer but I don't know which to choose from. I will be putting it in my sump tank which doesn't have a lot of room to start. I have already owned a Sea Clone and a Prizm and didn't have any luck with them.
<Many hobbyists report the same findings about these two models as well>
I can only afford to spend around $200.00 for a skimmer. Can I get a good skimmer for that much or do I need to spend more?
<Well, you don't need to spend much more. The Aqua C Urchin Pro is a good choice, and it's right in the ballpark, price wise. A bit more of a stretch would be one of the Tunze "Universal" skimmers. Either of these brands/models would do a fine job in this tank>  
I would like to add to my lighting as well. What type of light can I purchase to get more of a sunny day look? And about how much watts to I need more?
<Well, as far as getting a specific aesthetic appearance- it's a matter of personal taste. If you're looking to grow corals, there are lots of other considerations, such as the types of corals you plan to keep, etc. I think if you added a couple more 55watt PCs (say, 10000k spectrum), you'd probably get a brighter effect. Sure, the ultimate "sunny day" effect would be from metal halides, but then there are other considerations, such as heat, electrical consumption, etc>
I have 3 Tangs/1 goby/ 2 starfish/ some shrimps and snails.
Is my setup alright or do I need to do some changes?
<Well, it sounds like you have a good combination of animals, but with three tangs in there (what kind?), you'll need to think about moving up to much larger quarters in the near future, especially if they are to live anywhere close to a normal life span. Tangs need super high water quality, good food, and lots of room! Start planning for the future- it will be here before you think with these fish!>
Thank you, Ted
<And thank YOU for stopping by, Ted! Have fun upgrading your little world! Regards, Scott F>

Re: Lighting for Fish Only With Live Rock Tank
Hi Bob,
<Gary>
Thanks for your timely response. Can you please offer me your opinion
on the following light fixture in terms of what you recommended below.
Thank you in advance.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
pcatid=12109&N=2004+113030+22749
Best regards,
Gary
<The price is right, and I do like the 3/4 watt LED moonlight... This is about right in terms of the amount of light I'd look for you FOWLR system... but would likely pull the actinic lamps and replace with other whites. Bob Fenner>