 |
|
| Home | Marine Aquariums |
Freshwater Aquariums |
Planted Aquariums |
Brackish Systems |
Ponds,
lakes & fountains |
Turtles & Amphibians |
Aquatic Business |
Aquatic Science |
Ask the WWM Crew a Question |
| Please visit our Sponsors | ||||
Place Foam under Acrylic tank? DIY Stand Question - 10/23/05 Hiya Ladies and Gents! Before I get to my question, I must say again how right you are and I shouldn't have even bought a 13 gallon marine aquarium. Living in a smaller Japanese house, I wasn't sure how it would fit, but now it is the focal point of the house! While I've had great success with it thus far, it would have been surprisingly cheaper to 'go large' but I couldn't understand the reasoning back then. Now I see clearly. I've learned a lot about marine aquariums in a short time. 3-5 hours of nightly 'net' reading and a front row seat in front of the tank. Yes, it's possible to be successful. No, I wouldn't suggest it to a beginner. Ok, to the first question. I upgraded to a 66 gallon acrylic tank today. Going to make my own stand (a few years and lots of tools in the hobby to help me out). The LFS told me NOT to use a foam mat under an acrylic tank as it will eventually begin to chemically react and may 'glue' it self to it after a few years. Is this true? Or is there another form of 'forgiving material' to use? Next question is (if I can't use foam), what kind of finish am I able to use for the stand top? A lacquer? Polyurethane finish? Bare wood (hmmm unprotected wood and water = bad idea me thinks) Will these eventually have chemical reactions to the acrylic? Thank you again for the priceless resource! <Thank you for the kind words. Dana, I've always used Styrofoam sheeting to place under my tank. Works well and does not stick to the acrylic. As for finish, polyurethane is your best bet with no negative effects. James (Salty Dog)> Clownfish ? Stocking a saltwater tank with a Crowbar Hello Robert, <friend, author and Malt Ball lover Anthony Calfo in your service> I was reading through some of your articles online and noticed the section that said a reader could email you with a question. Here is mine: I have a 6 gallon saltwater tank, which successfully held a clownfish. It originally came with 2 cardinal fish, the clownfish, a Basslet, anemone, live coral and a featherduster (not sure what they are called) <My heaven's... was it stocked with a crowbar? Hehe... that really is a dreadful bioload for 6 gallons and rather cruel of the previous owner> One by one these things died leaving the clownfish and the Basslet the longest. The tank had those tape worm looking things and just fell apart quickly. It was a gift and an unexpected one at that. I'm thinking there was far too much in there. <excellent intuition...very well> I went away for a month and took that time to put the survivor - the clownfish - in a tank at a pet shop....he was all by himself. cleaned out the aquarium totally, put in shells and one large rock. conditioned the water and put survivor back with a new friend. This was in Sept. A couple of weeks ago the original died. <the tank is beyond it's critical threshold with even two fish... if you must keep a 6 gallon, please keep only one small fish indeed> His mouth faded in color although I didn't see any white spots or threads that the articles refer to. His gills were sticking out and his lower "lip" was quivering all the time. he was lethargic and finally died about 2-3 weeks ago. <not indicative of any specific pathogenic symptom unfortunately> The remaining fish was fine until about 10 days ago. his gills aren't sticking out nor is he as faded around the mouth. He is extremely lethargic and always in the lower corner of the tank at a 45 degree angle. We think he is blind because he used to shoot to the top of the tank when we'd even walk by in hopes of being fed but now he moves but doesn't track our fingers anymore. we feed him in the a.m. and at night. I haven't seen him eat in days. <please test the water chemistry (pH, ammonia, salinity)... really bad things can happen so fast to water chemistry in such a small tank even if you test the parameters weekly. It really is a torture chamber as marine aquaria go by virtue of its size> The water temp was 86. I lowered it to 80-82. <yes, a must. The low dissolved O2 in that small tank was much lower still at such high temperature and could have easily killed the clownfish> Any other suggestions? <honestly... do consider a larger aquarium... and if not, just one fish and weekly maintenance and water testing please> Do you think he has the parasites? <not symptomatic... more likely water quality> Thanks, Christine <kind regards, Anthony> Mature fish and a Good Aquarist Hi Robert, <Anthony Calfo in your service> I used to have 10 salt water tanks many years ago --like 15 or more---I finally gave all my fish to Sea World of Texas and kept 2---a cleaner wrasse and a tiny angelfish Koran--it was the size of a dime when I got him --- <very cool> I put them in a 10 gallon tank I had and got rid of all my other tanks. This is eight years ago. So all I had is 2 fish (new ones and the ten gallon tank) Now it is 8 years later and the fish are fine and healthy and the Koran is in the midst of a change to an adult. <magnificent... kudos to you for excellent husbandry!> Lately I noticed that the water level is down a 10 cup coffee pot filler every day. I don't know where it is going but fill it daily with fresh water from a carbon block filter water treatment system I use for the fish water for past 8 years--contains no chlorine etc. <could simply be a change in relative humidity affording evaporation> I wonder where the water is going? And how would it be possible to change over to a new 20 gallon tank? <probably would be too much trouble especially if the new tank is going in another place (giving you more time to transfer and prepare> I would love to use the water in the existing tank if possible? <yes, agreed and helpful> I am paranoid to do anything for fear I would disrupt the 2 fish <don't clean filter media before move...we would want mature/undisturbed media moved on a normal water change/scheduled routine...but this time we will be ADDING new water to ameliorate the transferred water to fill the new larger tank> and after 8 years in a 10 you know I must be doing something right---I very rarely ever lost fish----I always used a formalin dip I made myself for most any diseases and never put chemicals in the tank ever--- <agreed...beautiful> I raised Emperor Angels and Queens etc to maturity from juveniles and had great success---never used tap water either----always a carbon block filter---Would REALLY appreciate how to make a changeover with these two fish into a new 20 Thanks a lot, Red (Chuck Van Alen) <red, tell us more about your exact filter components (how many, what kind and what is the cleaning schedule) to fine tune our advice for you. Kindly, Anthony> Very Small Marine tank. Hi Bob, I have contacted you before re: Brackish tanks and skimmers. I have another question (as you were most helpful with the previous questions). First details on tank, system and contents. I have a marine tank which is very very small 30x20x20cm, 12litres using the "don't touch" principal. contains the following: 1 powerhead 200 for increased current. 1 interpret combined pump heater with filter unit removed. 2Kg's of live rock with assorted attachments (Polyps etc.) 2Kg's of calciferous rock (being used to make more live rock for expansion) 1 home designed 150W Metal Halide lamp unit. <On a four gallon system...> Feeding: Rarely or never once a week to once every two months. Either very little live brine shrimp (for polyps eaten vigorously) or a couple of drop of Liquifry no.2 or brine shrimp food. Maintenance as follows: clean pumps once every three months (or when output sufficiently reduced). top up with RO water every 5-10 days depending on loss. stable for 6 months. after fights between all the different algae and micro crustaceans have subsided) The tank is my first step into Marine, it has been purely non-fish thus far, I have: 6 macro strains of pretty green algae. 2 strains of macro red algae. 3 of coralline pink/red algae. 1 type polyps. 11 types of tube worms (5 identified). 2 type bristle worms and 1 unidentified type looking like a millipede. 1 unidentified Bi Valve mollusk. 5 or 6 type of sponge. 2 type of glass type anemone. 3 type unidentified micro crustaceans. Probably about 100-500 other unidentified species of other things (still learning) <Well-stated> My most recent addition is a orange legged hermit crab (hairless) to try and cut back on some of the macro green algae i.e.. the strains of: Caulerpa, Acetabularia, Ulva (lettuce), 2 unidentified bristle or string algae. They are by no means overgrown but I would like to tip the balance in calciferous algae production. What I wondered is can you suggest a VERY SMALL fish (or other life form) for the following: a) Assist in the control (but not eradication) of some green macro algae (must not touch other plants corals). b) Start war on Glass anemones (not enough for full diet so must go back to (a) above when run out). BTW: Nothing in the tank is overgrown or growing rampant. Thank You in advance, Alex (Sandgate in England) <Look to a Berghia verrucornis nudibranch for the Glass Anemones... fish... a tough one... Perhaps just a small tank bred/reared clownfish... or a goby or blenny. Please see the coverage on all posted on WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Eclipse 12 lighting Robert, I just set up an eclipse 12 tank with saltwater. Right now I am conditioning it with damsels, but eventually I would like to put some inverts and what not in there. However the stock bulb I got isn't up to snuff. How do I get more intensity and the blue, without totally rigging a Power Compact, is there a bulb that I can put in there to replace the stock one. The only suggestion I got was a bulb made by Helios, but I can't find anyone anywhere that sells Helios bulbs. Any help would be great thanks. mike <The fixture really needs replacing if you intend to keep much of the more light-intense species in such a system. There are companies that offer such retrofits (Champion, Custom Sea Life...) or you can rig one yourself (e.g. Home Depot CF's)... I would check with/through the various bulletin boards, chatforums (reefs.org, reefcentral, WetWebFotos...) for recent actual hobbyist/end-user input here. Bob Fenner> Comment on "planted" marine tanks Mr. Fenner, I have been researching your articles on WetWebMedia.com for a 3.5 gallon (Eclipse) marine tank that I have recently set up. Your articles have been a great help! Just wanted to let you know. <Very glad they have been of service to you> My plan is to actually created a "planted" marine tank. My exp has been in fw planted aquaria, thus the attraction. I would like to maintain the standard filtration and lighting over this tank. So, I am looking for species of "corals" or plants/algae that I can maintain in such an environment. <There are many choices> I used live water/live sand/live rock frags, so my tank was more or less "pre-packaged". I didn't have to wait to cycle it which was nice. I've already got some cup Caulerpa, "turtle grass", and Gracilaria (?) <Gracilaria> to start off with. If you have any comments or suggestions concerning other species (or if you can comment on the above - esp. the Gracilaria and turtle grass re. propagation) I would be more than interested. <The Turtle Grass (likely a Thalassia sp.) is not easily kept in such a small system... and the consequences of its loss would/will be troubling... I would continue to seek out other true algae and leave off with embryophytes like Turtle Grass. You have seen the macrophyte articles posted on WWM? Bob Fenner> Thanks so much again, Joe Anderson, a new convert to salt, Joe's Aquatic Lounge www.aquaticlounge.aquariumplants.cx Oklahoma City Aquarium Association www.okcaa.aquariumsociety.com <Be chatting> Truth in Advertising...right Mr. Fenner, <Dan... friend Anthony Calfo here answering the mail while Bob is away> First of all, I just bought your book and am in the process of reading it. I have to say, this is the most complete book about marine tanks that I've seen. <Agreed!!!> I'm semi new to marine tanks. I had a 20 gallon tank about 10 years ago. I'm looking at getting another one and starting again. A question after reading through your aquarium selection part is this: I have limited space in my house. Basically, I can only get a 30" tank. I've been reading about how important the size of the tank is...I've also been reading on how important surface area is. So, is it more important to have more surface area or a bigger tank? The two options I'm looking at are a 30" long 40 gallon tank or a 24" long 50 gallon hex tank. I'm really looking at getting the following tank: http://www.petsmart.com/fish/shopping/aquariums <the pictures in many advertisements are of unreal or overstocked displays literally impossible to achieve. Inspiring for sure. But do be realistic about the challenge of maintaining smaller aquaria and enjoy it with the same enthusiasm!> Any additional advice would be great. Thanks again for writing a GREAT book. <you've got a great start by information gathering and reading. Additionally, locate a local or regional Aquarium Society where you can meet nice people that share your interests, can give you opinions and advice... and aren't trying to sell you something...hehe> Dan Williams, Davis, CA <Best regards, Dan... Anthony> Metal Halide on a Mini-Reef Mr. Fenner, Hello, I hope this e-mail finds you in good health. <Yes my friend, thank you> I read The Conscientious Marine Aquarist over this last summer and was hooked into saltwater aquaria. I had experimented with freshwater for a little over a year to gain confidence, but your book pulled me in. Despite your warnings, my first marine tank was a 15 gallon reef tank with a 40 gallon sump (lighting costs and space constraints restricted size). Every piece of equipment with the exception of the lights, tank and powerheads is DIY, everything seems to work great, especially the skimmer. I met with great success the reef-keeping hobby and am currently running a full blown LPS coral tank. <Wow, progress!> My question is in reference to an upgrade I am undertaking, I am changing from a 15 gallon to a 20 long with 15 gallon sump, everything of course is DIY. I want to try my hand at more light demanding organisms such as SPS corals and maxima clams and was investigating a 150-watt Metal Halide system. Would that big of a MH system be advisable/possible without the purchase of a chiller? <You could try suspending it high/er from the ceiling...> If not, than would a smaller wattage MH be acceptable? <If you can find such> What other alternatives are there? <Compact fluorescents. Have you had occasion to be introduced to WetWebMedia.com? Please read through the marine lighting materials there... and on to DIY heaven at Home Depot...> Any and all suggestions and advice are welcomed and appreciated. Thanks in advance for any advice I might receive. Sincerely, Alfonso <Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Ten gallon marine system algae problems I have had my ten gallon salt tank set up for years and two months ago I decided to switch the animals in it. I had a lot of anemone's in the tank and took them out and put polyp rocks in. I have a body clownfish, blue star, snail, two scarlet hermits, two emerald crabs. ever since I put the star polyp rocks in I have gotten algae problem and can't get rid of it. I have a sea clone skimmer and a millennium filter, I clean the cup for the skimmer every day. the green hair algae came first and it started to die off and like dark brown algae grew over it then it died out a little and the green came back a little, but it is not really green its kind of dark brown too. I clean the millennium filter pad more often and I tried changing the water more then once a week and it didn't really help. I have to use tap water because I don't really have a choice, so could that be the problem? <Yes... at least to some extent... It's hard to manage such a small volume as ten gallons... and you did a big change in switching out the life in such a long-established system... In fact, it may take changing out the gravel/substrate and/or adding/changing a bit to a bunch of live rock to re-establish some sort of balance here.> should I get a small powerhead and put it in there just to see if even more water flow would make a difference? <It might well> the two filters I have in there move the water good though. the polyps are all acting fine but the xenia polyps are on a tree like frame and on the top they get the dark brown algae on it? the crabs don't really help at all, I even stir up the sand but the algae will still come back. I even got rid of a lot of the sand so the layer isn't as thick. one thing is that the tank is in almost direct sunlight for a couple hours during the winter with the tree's leaves not being there to block the sun. please help!! <Please read through the various algae, control, maintenance sections posted on WetWebMedia.com starting here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm to gain a better understanding of what you're up against, what your choices in developing a control strategy are. Bob Fenner> Tank (new, small, marine) Hey, Robert maybe you can HELP me out. I have a new 10 gallon tank. it is cycling on day 26 now my pH is 8.5 my ammonia is way high at 3.0 ml/l the nitrites are at 0.3 ml/l I have 1-2'' fish left at this level. <Yikes... why have any fish present while establishing nutrient cycling? Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm and don't feed this system for now!> I have a whisper power filter plus a corner filter. I clean the filters every 2 weeks. <Do not change the filters at all till the system has cycled completely AND a few weeks have gone by.> I do water changes every 3 day to keep the ammonia in check 20%. I ALSO VACUUM EVERY WEEK the temp is 81. I also have 3 live plant in there. I can't seem to keep the ammonia at a safe level??? I used cycle to get going. it seem like it is not working my biofilter is not established or is something else wrong. also my water has been treated with conditioner and the hardness is 8. do you think my tank maybe oxygen depleted. I can't seem to pin point the problem???? I HAVE A 8'' AIR STONE. THANKS MICHAEL MATTHEWS <Michael, please read through the set-up sections on the Marine Index posted on the WetWebMedia.com site, including the linked FAQs files. Much background you need to understand, be successful, enjoy your system. Bob Fenner> General help. <fitting an Eclipse system with a skimmer, (over) stocking, more) Good Morning Mr. Fenner, Was wondering if you could help me with some questions? <I will try> I currently have a 37gal eclipse system with about 40lbs of live rock, live sand, a Fluval 204, 55watt custom sealife PC, 3 grabs, (1-emerald, 1-red and some other type unknown.) 4 red legged hermits, 10 blue legged hermits, 7 or 8 snails not Turbos) for algae, 1 yellow tang, 1 Kole Tang, 1 long nosed hawk, <Watch this Hawkfish... may eat your crabs, hermits in time... especially during molts> 1 wrasse (blue and White in color), 2 clowns, 1 angel and 1 goby. (all these fish are small to med in size "3-4") I also have two anemones, 1 sand sifting tiger starfish, 1 type starfish and 2 horseshoe crabs, and some small rocks with sponges and green polyps. <This is a bunch of life for this size, type system...> I currently don't have a protein skimmer on the tank, I am looking at getting the AquaC remora hang on this week, I'm not sure it will fit. <The top of the tank will have to be modified (cut) to fit it over the side... Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/skimmerfaqs.htm and beyond re others retrofits> My Ammonia is 0, ph 0, nitrites 0, nitrates about .20, and salinity at 1.023. I just did a partial water change (7gal) with distilled drinking water, (my pet store advised Spring Water but I saw on the label that minerals were added so I went with the distilled) Spring OK? <Yes... but would make more frequent, smaller changes... maybe five gallons maximum> couldn't find this in the FAQs. My question is do I have too much going on in the tank? <You are at a "limit" and will be beyond with fish growth...> The stores I frequent seem to keep trying to sell me more fish and tell me that I'm ok with room. <Get this in writing... I would either secure larger quarters, or plan on trading in the Angel, perhaps the Hawkfish... in time> I seem to think I have reached my limit or maybe passed it. should I worry about trying to lower the nitrates? <Mmm, not likely... especially not from current levels> My tank has been running for about six weeks. I'm a beginner and just need to be steered in the right direction. Thank you in advance for any assistance that you can offer. Brian S. <Do keep looking into possible amendments to your current system... a natural evolution might be to add a refugium sump to what you have... with more volume, live rock, lighting... Bob Fenner> Nano-reef chiller Dear Mr. Fenner, You were very helpful in a previous question about a ten-gal nano reef skimmer. I have another question for you. I live in Hawaii, home of the coral reefs. Unfortunately, the temp (even with evaporative cooling) has been noted in my freshwater ten-gal at 82, 84, and even 86 degrees. I assume I will need a chiller for my new saltwater 10-gallon. There is a product called the Cool Work's Ice Probe costing $100. It is a micro chiller that uses a cooling probe inserted through the bottom of a tank. It has been designed for approx 10 gal aquariums, and the manufacturer says that it "directly converts electricity to cooling power". Have you ever used this product, do you recommend it, and should I get one (or some other chiller)? Thank you very much for you advice <I've seen this product at a couple of trade shows (the business side of the pet-fish interest)... am concerned about the lack of a controller (you can buy, make one) with this "continuously on" chiller on such a small volume of water. If you do intend to use this unit, do secure/use a controller. Bob Fenner> Nano-reef chiller Hi Bob, PF again throwing in my spare change... ; ) RC has an article about using one of these Ice probe Chillers in a HOT filter. Given that my lighting pushes my temp up to 84F(and probably over), and the fan I have to cool it blocks off the view of the tank, I think I'll be doing one of these myself. here's the URL: http://www.reefcentral.com/library/reviews/Ice Probe/default.htm <Thanks for this. Bob Fenner> HTH, PF Nano-reef skimmers Hello Mr. Fenner, Seeing as you know all about skimmers <Mmm, I wouldn't say "all about"...> I thought I'd ask you a burning question of mine. I am setting up a 10 gallon nano-reef (livestock is cheap, I live in Hawaii next to a beach). Originally it wasn't going to have a skimmer because I wanted lots of copepods and amphipods, but it seems like one is needed. So which is the best skimmer to use? I'm deciding between a Prizm, a BakPak I (fits on ten-gal), a BakPak II (doesn't fit on 10-gal), or the miniature in-tank CC. What skimmer of these, or any, do you recommend? <The Prizm... have seen this unit on ten gallon systems that have a surprising mix of organisms, crowded... doing very well... a bit noisy and tricky to initially adjust... but the better choice here. Bob Fenner> Compatibility Hi...I currently have a nano reef (@7.5 gallons). I have one 3-striped damsel in the tank, but I would like to add more fish without having to get rid of the damsel. Some have suggested a clown fish, others have recommended Pseudochromis...any suggestions? I'd like to add more activity to the tank, but without having to nix the damsel. Thanks for your help! :) <Please read over the "Reef" and "Marine Selection" pieces and about the groups of fishes you list, and small reef systems... on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com Bob Fenner> Nano Clean Up Crew Hi Bob and great to talk to you again. I have a 7.5 gallon nano reef set up with 10 pounds of live rock and 5 pounds of live sand. The lighting is a 32 watt CSL retrofit. What would you recommend for an adequate clean up crew for a tiny system like this? <Maybe a snail or two out of favorites: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/gastropo.htm like Nassarius spp., and one, two small Hermit species: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hermitcrabs.htm Possibly a tiny sea cucumber species... you can find this and articles on marine, reef maintenance, sand sifters, marine scavengers... on the WWM site. Bob Fenner> Thanks for your help again. Nano-Reef Skimming? Dear Robert, I found my self setting up a "Nano-Reef" way before I knew there was such a thing. I was limited by space and money yet was dieing to set up a marine tank. My 7 gallon nano has had it's share of up's and downs over the last 10 months. Particularly the ongoing battle with "pea soup syndrome". The algae bloom in my tank. I'd like to know what your opinion is about using a protein skimmer for such a small volume of water. At present I have 3 small fish, 4 hermits, 3 nails and a shrimp in my tank. I have about 6-8 pounds of live rock and a penguin 125 power filter. <I would use one... probably the Prizm hang on> A recent article I read by Christopher Marks (http://www.nano-reef.com/filtration.htm) suggests that a powerhead and weekly water changes are sufficient in a nano-reef with a high volume of live rock (1 - 1 1/2 PPG)? <Mmm, can be done... but the use of a small skimmer is a real plus. Systems with such are less risky, prone to crash... and (bonus!) much less pea-soup possibility> Quote: "With this natural method, no protein skimmers or dosing is used. Studies of skimmers have shown that they remove various trace elements, along with pods and plankton. When people run protein skimmers, they dose trace elements to replenish them after their corals and skimmers use them. Because the skimmer removes most of the elements, such as iodine, it is dosed back in causing almost an endless cycle. The main problem this holds in nano reefing is that many of the trace elements cannot be easily tested for, so no one ever knows where their level is. This can lead to overdosing which will crash a nano reef in a matter of hours. The skimmer also begins to starve your corals by removing their food source. It's simply too risky. " I have a feeling that a Skimmer on a larger scale does more good then harm but on a nano? <Mmm, no... about the same... there is a huge range in "efficiency" in foam fractionators/skimmers... the inefficient ones (the vast majority of makes/models) are well worth the trade-off in removal of useful materials...> My plans to purchase a Prizm protein skimmer have been put one hold because of this article. I'm hoping you can shed some more light on the matter bob? <I would buy, put this skimmer on... experiment with turning it off after a month or so... see if you can tell the difference in A) the health of your livestock, cleanliness of your system, maintenance, B) the apparent and measured loss of biominerals, alkaline reserve... You'll very likely see why I'd add the skimmer. Bob Fenner> Thanks for your time and help as always, Ed Nano Reef Dear Mr. Fenner, I hope this email finds you well. <Yes my friend, thank you> I am writing to ask for some advice. I don't want to take up too much of your time so I'll be as brief as possible. <Mmm, don't have that much to take up! Hoping to finish the prep. for a PP pres. for a friends HS class tomorrow... plant a fig tree I bought last week, go for a run with all and dogs... ahead of bbq'ing tonight's repast... whew!> I have been running a 75gallon reef tank for the past three years. I love every aspect of it. It was only seven months ago that I finished stocking it and any minor tinkering. <Wow, you've got discipline!> It has been problem free and healthy from then on. My refugium (40gallon) is doing wonderful <Wonderfully. I blame that Steven Jobs... somehow he learned to put shoes on, but his adverb use is still deficient!> and I do thank you for encouraging the use of it. I had never heard of the idea until reading your book TCMA a year ago. <Ah! Wish the darn title had gone into print when it was done (1995)> Now that things are going well and the tank it more or less running it's self I find that I miss messing with it. The setup, aquascaping, fish, invertebrates. water levels and such. I would like to attempt a nano reef with my 10gallon aquarium. <You're likely ready> Setup: 15lbs LR, 5lbs LS, AquaC Skimmer, 2X32watt PC lighting, Mini Maxi-jet pump, 30watt heater, animal stocking is up in the air right now. Very light bio-load for sure. My only concern would be it becoming too hot. I know that Skilter makes a mini chiller for $180.00 !! That would be out of my budget. Do you have any thoughts on keeping this chilled? <A fan across the top... or better over the top of the mini-nano reef sump/refugium... running the lights at night when it's cooler... devising a "chimney" type arrangement for facilitating hot air removal from the light fixtures/hood...> Besides fans if possible. Any other additions or subtractions would be welcome. Or do you even think my attempting a Nano of this size given my experience would be wise? <Don't know about wisdom, but do surmise you have sufficient experience, intelligence to pursue this project.> Thank you kindly Marcy <Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Protein skimmers (for small systems) Mr. Fenner, I have an Marineland eclipse 3 system its a 37gal saltwater tank, and I would like to know what brand and type of protein skimmer you suggest for this size of tank your vast knowledge of this subject matter would greatly be appreciated thank you. Michael Camacho <Hmm, to some degree matters what sorts of livestock, how much of it, what you hope to do... but likely one of the smaller, lower-efficiency type skimmers will do/would be what I used here: the newer Prizm, even a modified Skilter (see: http://WetWebMedia.com/hang-onskimfaqs.htm and beyond), or a CPR BakPak. Do read through the WWM site re modification to the top/Eclipse that others have suggested for fitting such a device (skimmer). Bob Fenner> 7 gallon bowfront question(s) Dear Bob: I have an AGA 7-gallon bowfront tank with a CSL 2-32 watt bulb hood with fan. I have a Skilter 250 which has been modified with an airstone and 12 pounds of live rock. There is 1/2 inch of CC for substrate. There are no inhabitants yet as it is still cycling (been 15 days with a cocktail shrimp). <Yum, I'd pull the shrimp> Ammonia is 0, nitrites are between 3 and 4 ppm, nitrates are 100 ppm. <I'd definitely pull the shrimp... it's rotting...> When the nitrites are 0 will it be safe to add 2 snails and a red-leg hermit crab? <I would still wait... till the nitrates are below 20 ppm> I plan on adding either a blue damsel or a small TR clown after that. Which would be better? <In seven gallons? The tank raised clown> I'd also like to add a cleaner shrimp or coral banded shrimp....which would be better? <Hmm, the Cleaner if it's small...> Do I need to add a small power head or airstone, or is the Skilter sufficient? <I'd add an airstone... or next in preference, the powerhead> I have left the carbon and the white floss in the Skilter. Is this a good idea? <Yes... but don't change the carbon till nitrites gone, nitrates greatly reduced.> Is 9/watts per gallon too much light for polyps and mushrooms? <It's on the high side... do take care to photo-adapt new specimens... place them near the bottom, perhaps wrap some aluminum foil strip over half the lighting to cut down on intensity.> Sorry for so many questions, but I want this little tank to be a success. <Me too> Grateful you are there, <I as well. Be chatting, Bob Fenner> Janey Question (actually, questions... on marine set-up, small tank, too much stock too soon...) Hi, I got a 20 gallon show tank set up. Just started with the anemones and don't know much about it. <Much to learn my friend... anemones are not easy to keep... especially in such a small tank. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemones.htm> I got a penguin 380 filter, 2 24inches long 20 watt each, one white and one actinic blue ,10lbs live rock, royal Gramma, Percula clown, flame scallop, purple tip or pink but the pet shop man said its a long tentacle anemone and a very thin tentacle anemone with long tube, probably a curlicue anemone. Not sure what it is. My question is the light enough for my set up? <No...> And if so how long do I keep it on? <Please read over the entire "Marine Set-Up" sections and FAQs parts of our site: www.WetWebMedia.com, and get your hands on a couple of good general marine aquarium reference books... You will save yourself a lot of heartache, money and lost livestock by studying now. Bob Fenner> Eclipse Filter Modification... livestock I recently purchased a Marine land Eclipse system for my desk at work. I believe it is 6 gallons. I have had tanks at work before that were this size and always had good success keeping 1 fish. I am using the stock filter which is just a small Biowheel. My Salinity is 1.021 and my temp is 79 I have crushed coral and 1 fish , a very small Undulated Trigger Once I get the Biowheel seasoned would it be a good idea to add another small fish, when the trigger outgrows the tank I will take him home, but right now he hides like crazy. Would another fish make him more comfortable or is it in some fish nature to hide. <Yes... inclined to hide when young, small... and in small volumes. I encourage you to trade this fish in for... one or two small tank-raised Clownfishes... No need for an anemone... colorful, will stay out and about most all the time...> I hesitate to take away his hiding spot cause I think it will stress him out. <You are correct> I have 75 gal at home with fish only and have had great success, I just enjoy it so much that I want a tank at work. Any thoughts or advice?? Thanks in advance <Chat with you soon my friend. Bob Fenner> Too much light? Dear Bob, You advise on my problems with a purple tipped sebae and a false Percula on my 10 gallon reef was very helpful. Unfortunately the sebae has passed on, but it has made room for a few other things in the tank. Mainly mushrooms and a variety of polyps, as well as a unknown variety of SPS coral. It was bought from a store that didn't know exactly what it was since it grew on a piece of live rock in their live rock vat. Later I found out that it was actually a hard coral (they thought it was soft). It's a light brown color with a slight green fluorescence and grows in a wavy plate fashion, positioned about 8" from the light source, and seems to be flourishing, since it's spread so well since I've had it and it stays fuzzy looking. <Sounds good> I would like to upgrade the lighting in my tank (time to change the bulbs anyway). And would like to keep another SPS coral that would brighten the tank up. Right now I have 2-18"/15w fluorescent lights in the tank (1 actinic, 1 daylight) and plan on replacing that with one 32w Custom Sea Life SmartLamp. <Good choice> Should I go with more lighting if I want to keep other SPS corals or stick with about the same wattage since the SPS coral I have does so well. <If it were my small tank... I'd stick with about the same wattage... Real easy to have "things" slip away control-wise in such little volumes... and boosting the light too much is one simple way to have such "slips"> I'd thought about getting 2 of the 32w Smartlites. Would this be bad for my mushrooms and other polyps (positioned all over the tank) that don't require too much lighting? <Too much of a chance yes... as a matter of fact, I would shade part of the new lighting for a couple of weeks to reduce the likelihood of photoshock. Bob Fenner> Thanks, Todd re Small Reef tank, from FAQ Hello again, You mention in the Small Tank FAQ (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/smmarsys.htm) that you had an article in FAMA entitled "Small can be Beautiful" and that it should be posted to the site. I've searched and all I came up with was the aforementioned reference. <Ah, thanks for asking about this... in getting around (one of the writing/photography fields "business of life" duties of copying and putting away the last few months of published and not efforts, did notice this piece was not "on"... and did place with a few of the images: Here tis, http://WetWebMedia.com/tomwsmreefs.htm Maybe I should change the title on the WWM site... it's linked with the file/page you cite above.> I was just curious as to when it would be making it's appearance on WWM, or if you could provide the date/issue number I'll see if any of the LFS's have that issue in stock. <Let's see. In the 6/01 ish of FAMA> Thanks Bob, Mike (who also cooks extensively with garlic) <Allium sativum, yum! Am making a barley soup (with chicken, corn, mushrooms...) and same as we speak/type. Fish tanks (looking for a small one) my name is Bret and I'm looking for a 2 gallon tank. if you have any in stock please e-mail me back. if you don't and you who does please tell me <Please take a look on the Links Page of our site: www.WetWebMedia.com for etailers of such tiny systems... and be advised, you would be better off with a bigger tank. Bob Fenner> Thank you Small system circulation questions Greetings again Bob, <Hi there> This is probably a really dumb question and it shows just how inept I am in the whole aquarium area. <Don't discount the validity of starting/stating at this point> I thought (and you affirmed my suspicions) that I should put a powerhead in my eclipse 12. (I have an airstone strip thingy along the back and the damsels seem to have adjusted quickly to the bubbles :) So powerheads... all the ones I've seen say that they are made to attach to undergravel filters. is it o.k. or is there a way to use the powerhead without an undergravel filter? <Yes. All models are able to be modified for this purpose... look to using a sponge on the intake if provided, at least a "Bioball" on the intake if not> and do I leave these things on all the time? <Yes> where would be the optimum place to place my powerhead, or does it depend on where I plan to put corals and such? <To some degree... in such a small system it is fine to just aim the discharge in such a fashion to increase/optimize overall circulation> Thanks again, Ben <You're welcome my friend. Be chatting. Bob Fenner> Help please (small system, maroon clowns, live rock...) Mr.
Fenner, Oh boy have I gotten in over my head. A friend gave me an
aquarium, 30 gallons with live sand/coral. She told me it had been
cycled (she had it a long time) and was ready to go. I let it run for a
week, then bought a cleanup crew and some rock. I realize I have a
bunch of questions and will be very grateful if you can answer a
few! <I will try> I have read a lot of your info on your
site...but this is overwhelming. I'm confused about the rock and
I'm reading and hearing conflicting information. <There is
plenty of this in our interest... and therefore a need for a clear,
discerning mind, and searching, ferreting out on ones own> I
purchased pre-cured live rock from FFExpress. According to them, I
could add one or a few pieces a day to my tank. I put it in a separate
container with a powerhead and heater. It's obvious to me from my
levels. that I can't add it that fast. <Yes, I do believe
my personal experience over any stated "fact"> Now my fish
and other stuff (think I ordered too much) is here and I've had
some deaths. Should I just leave the rocks in the separate container
for a while? How long? Is a powerhead and heater all I need until the
rocks stabilize? Should I take out the two rocks I've put in my
tank already? <Please read over the "Live Rock Curing
FAQs" areas on the www.WetWebMedia.com site. I would NOT add any
more live rock, so-called cured or not, to this system till all
stabilizes there (by measuring aspects of nitrogen cycling: ammonia,
nitrite). I would engage water changes with pre-made water should
either measure approach 1.0 ppm. I would feed nothing to very little to
the livestock there during this period. This may take days to a few
weeks. Your curing container set-up should be fine; do test the water,
change it as needed there as well. I would likely NOT move the rock in
the tank already.> I'm a little hesitant to take out the rock
because it is sheltering some of the fish. I think I was a little
misled about what fish to get. I got a pair of Maroon Clowns, a Flame
Angel and a Banggai. <For a thirty gallon? I would trade out
the Flame Angel> The clowns were supposed to be a pair...but the
little guy is picking on everyone.. including the mate. I was led to
believe this was a good combination. What can I do if they don't
get along? <You could sell them, trade them for other livestock... I
would likely wait on the Maroon Clowns at this point... as they are
likely too stressed to be moved. This is too aggressive, large a
species to keep in such a small tank> Thanks for your help.....I
have a million more questions, but will continue to read your site.
Sara <Very well my friend. Do contact me if there is something more
I might do. And do weigh more than one opinion (yes, even mine) in
judging important matters in the hobby. There are many good people to
help you (perhaps sign up to one of the listservs re reefs, marine
aquariums); listen to all, decide for yourself. Bob Fenner> Beginning in salt water world (small systems file) Hi Bob! Great informative site. It's helped me a lot. I recently started a saltwater system. It's my first delve into this hobby and I'm really excited about it. <Great. A very exciting field for sure> I have an Eclipse 12 system (kind of small to start with I know). I have about 12 lbs. of live rock and two damsels currently in the tank. My temp. stays around 79 degrees with the power compact light on, and stays pretty constant when it's off. The aquarium store I purchased this system from currently has an eclipse 12 system that's been running successfully for many months now. They have many different corals and invertebrates in there. I was wondering if 1) My temp. is o.k. too high? <It's fine. More important that within a certain temperature range that it not vary a great deal over a short period of time. Am sure you have a heater> 2) If I will have success like the system at the store, being able to add corals, inverts and such? <If you are careful about what specimens, of what species you introduce... place them in an acceptable order, as small individuals... keep up water quality, be observant, feed sparingly...> 3) If corals and inverts are a possibility, what types are good to start with, and will be o.k. in such a small system. <Some polyps, mushrooms, a few LPS corals (these are detailed on the WWM site), perhaps a few small Hermit Crabs... best to investigate a stocking plan for yourself in a systematic way here> 4) do I need a powerhead or air stone to add current or aerate the water? <A very good idea> Well, that's all the questions I can think of for now, but I'm sure I'll think of more. Thanks for all the help and info your site has given already and for all the info I'm sure I'll get in the future. <Yes indeed> looking forward to great experiences, Ben <Do "fish about" for a reefing friend in your area to help guide you my friend. Perhaps someone you can meet through a local fish store, or marine society. Bob Fenner> New Aquarium (small marine systems) I have a 39 gallon
(rated) brackish aquarium and am interested in converting it to a reef
aquarium. The filter is an Eheim Pro II and there is no sump. 1) Do I
need a sump? <Not necessarily... nice to have for flexibility, added
volume> 2) What protein skimmer would you recommend for this size
aquarium? <A small hang on will do... a Bak Pak, Aqua-C unit...>
Is this too much for the Prizm skimmer (Red Sea)? I want one that is
not noise, and I would prefer not having to buy any extra pumps.
<The Prizm has not proven to be the unit I had hoped... very hard to
adjust, maintain> 3) I was wondering if a 2X96w Power Compact
Fluorescent lighting (actinic and white) is sufficient (16" deep
with no stony corals)? <Should be> 4) What test kits do I need
and what are good brands (expensive and inexpensive)? <Alkalinity,
pH, calcium, ammonia/nitrite/nitrate. Salifert> 5) Do I need a
trickle filter? <No> Thanks in advance, Kevin Cossel
<You're welcome. Please read through the "Small
Systems" section on the Marine Index of our site:
www.WetWebMedia.com for more. Bob Fenner> First Tank Mr. Fenner, Hello, I recently purchased your Conscientious Marine Aquarist book. I am in a dilemma right now.. I am really fascinated by Marine/Reef tanks and am trying to decide what to go with for a very first tank. Keep in mind this would be my first tank ever.. some have recommended a 55 or 75 gallon tank while others have recommended a 29-40 gallon tank. <Try at least a forty... bigger is definitely better> I really don't want to spend the money on a 55 or 75 gallon and find out that I really should of gone with something bigger like a 120-150 gallon tank.. also I would like to have several fish and it seems in a 75 gallon reef even I can only have a few fish.. I was just wondering what your thoughts were on a first tank.. I am leaning more towards a 29-40 gallon tank now ... Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Sam <Please take a read over the "Set-Up" sections on the Marine Index part of our website: www.WetWebMedia.com to augment, reinforce what you're studying and clarify what your choices are. Bob Fenner> Hello I need your help! (too small tank...) I have been through three Emperor Angels. Two I killed due to copper. <Really> The third was definitely not my doing, It kind of behaved and looked like one of those overly-brightly-colored disoriented specimens from the Philippines and Indonesia.( cyanided and doomed) who knows! I unfortunately too late have been told you can't use copper on Angel fish. So I'm going to try a Pomacanthus annularis This weekend. <Perhaps a better choice... or another source for a healthier, more Indian Ocean or Red Sea Emperor...> He is extremely healthy for I've had my eye on him for about 3 months at this LFS. Eats, very social! I DON'T WANT TO KILL IT! I looked on your web site for some info and found very little on Annularis. Can you fill me in. <I will try... saw many specimens of this species the last few weeks diving in Malaysia and Indonesia... was the most common species of Angel as a matter of fact> I keep what my test kits say is very clean water! I have 65 gall tank with 40 watt UV and Protein Skimmer. I have a lot of rock and hiding places. Will he beat up my Flame Angel? The Quarantine tank is an always running 10 gall with a sponge filter and mini Bio Wheel. This fish is not tiny he has already matured and is about $150.00 Can you Help? <Likely I can, but you not be initially happy with my advice: your tank is too small for any of the Pomacanthus Angels... I encourage you to stay with or seek out a different member of the genus Centropyge instead (just one in a sixty five)... all covered on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com. Bob Fenner> Change in filtration <Hi Lowe, Lorenzo here, still, for a couple more weeks, actually.> Good afternoon Lorenzo, or maybe Bob by now. I am currently upgrading the filtration in my 37 gal eclipse system by adding an Aqua-c remora protein skimmer. My question is what is the best process to do this? I currently have a three inch base of aragonite, 50 lbs of live rock, a 65w SmartLite, Blue damsel, Pseudochromis diadema, variety of mushrooms corals, breadcrumb sponge, four emerald crabs, and a variety of snails/hermits. The tank is about 1.5 years old. From what I have read on the website a bio-wheel is generally useless after the initial set-up, would you recommend removing? <Nah, if you manage to rig the Eclipse to work with the hang-on Remora skimmer, (both are very nice products) you can certainly leave the bio-wheel on the Eclipse running. True, it's not really necessary, with all that live rock and sand...> Also can you recommend a compatible fish for the small tank and aggressive Pseudochromis? Love the site and thanks. Lowe <A Banggai Cardinal, or a dwarf angel, like Flame or Coral Beauty...? regards, Lorenzo> 20 gallon marine aquarium in June issue of FAMA Mr. Fenner < Let me start by saying that I writing this for my mom who is an avid aquarist. She is in the process of setting up a 20 gallon marine reef tank. She saw the article in the June issue of FAMA and was wondering if she could get the info on how these twenty gallon tanks filtration systems were set up In particular the wooden air stones and the setting up and modifying of the Skilter 250 filter. She is using a whisper 2000 in her tank > The tank is up and running She has two live rock in the tank with a couple of domino fish The tank has been up about 5 or 5 weeks although she just put in the rock and fish . Any info you could supply would be greatly appreciated Thanks so much. Hubert Tyler writing for Joan Tyler <Could do so from memory... wrote this piece about three years back... but do have her or you contact Tom Walsh directly at the e-address listed at the end of the article. He has assured me he does not mind, enjoys sharing his experiences. Bob Fenner> Small reef tank Hi Bob, I was going to make my 55ga into a full blown reef system sometime in the near future. My wife wants the 55 to be just fish so she can get a few of her choice picks in fish. Her picks are definitely not reef compatible. She is also concerned about the extra cost of all that power hungry lighting. (I of course could care less. That's why I work) <I understand on both counts> She has expressed her concerns and would accept a smaller reef tank but of course she tells me "Space is very limited" ( I didn't think we really needed that damn couch any how!) <Careful... or you may not need a bed!> So on to my questions. I know you think small reef is bad because of instability. I agree. Yet I have seen many nice smaller reef systems kept by people who are no where near as careful or conscientious as me. With all my salt experience I think I could manage. Would a 29ga with only 2 small little fishies for movement be O.K.? <Likely so... A piece by me on "Small can be beautiful" ran this month in FAMA, and am pretty sure is posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com that you might want to look at/over.> I would buy a twin 65watt PC hood for the lighting. Plenty I think for most soft and LPS's. After you build the reef wall, where the heck do you put a HOT skimmer or filter? <Behind, aside the tank, hanging on... or in/on a sump...> Will two Powerhead with sponges be enough for filtration? <Maybe... eventually... but not to start. Please take a read over the "Small Reef Set-Up" section of the WWM site> Probably would run some carbon once a week for a few hours to clear up the water color and remove some pollutants. Smart, dumb or should I incorporate it full time? <Leave in full time, switch out monthly> I don't think a sump would be a good investment on such a small system. Any filtration ideas? <Many... see the site... it is a good idea> It would be a challenge and I think a bit of fun too. I believe as do you that bigger is better. I trust your opinion and if you think that 29 is too small the maybe I just won't try it. <Well worth trying. Bob Fenner> Zimmy Reef Setup Hi Mr. Fenner, I'm in the process of setting up a new salt water tank and was wondering if you could help me with a couple of questions that are causing me some concern... (I hope so) My tank is a 40-High and has an Eclipse 3 on top of it which I'm using to provide mech/chem and some bio filtering. (Good) Here is the rest of my equipment to provide the background: Tank____ 2 white fluorescent lights (in Eclipse 3) Sump____ 20-Long DAS CC skimmer UV Sterilizer (4 Watt?) Heater (60 Watt?) (Hmm, you need more wattage here... do check this, maybe get another heater to use in addition... a hundred watts or so...) The live rock hasn't yet been put in the tank, but I will probably end up filling the tank 1/3-1/2 full with it. I plan on having one lionfish in there, for sure. Now here's where the questions begin: 1. Aside from the lionfish, are there any other fish that I can add to a tank of that size that will not kill each other or overgrow the tank (this tank has to last a long while)? (Many... with an eye on the size of mouth of the Lion... can-will inhale fishes half its size...) 2. As is, I have room for a total of 2 lights (w/o dumping the Eclipse and getting a better lighting unit). I currently have 2 whites, but was thinking about change to 1 white and 1 blue. Is this a good move? Are there any "better" options? (Stick with the two whites) 3. Using just these 2 bulbs (of whatever combo) will it be possible for me to create a reef tank with living coral, sponges, and other plant life? (Your selection of livestock will need to be careful... and the animals will not grow (That are photosynthetic) as quickly, or be as colorful as they might... as if you had more light intensity) 4. What about other inverts like anemones, urchins, tube worms, etc... Will this setup be adequate to maintain them? Or will they become lionfish food? (Hmm, yes... but I would practice with them sans the Lion... Lionfishes are messy eaters, defecators... making it hard to keep good water quality for more sensitive invertebrates...) Thanks for your time and help! Stan (Glad to be of service my friend. Bob Fenner, who asks you to use the Google search feature on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com for more on the above issues, and read over the fish, non-fish survey sections...) Advice needed :) (Small reef set-up) Dr. Mr. Fenner. Quick introduction... I've been keeping fish for several years now, and consider myself to be a contentious fish-keeper. <Like this> After many interesting endeavors with freshwater (which I am still passionate about!) I am ready for a challenge, and I'm hoping you can help. <Oh, yes> I recently acquired a Tenecor Model 8 flat back hexagon tank, eight gallons with a wet/dry filter (you can view the tank here: http://www.tenecor.com/aquar/table2.htm ) Currently, I am researching setting it up as a mini-saltwater tank, quite the project I know! I have a bundle of questions I can't seem to find answer on, despite my fervent research. I'll list them here, and perhaps you can give me your advice? <Okay> I read on your website that wet/dry filters are nitrate factories. Am I going to run into serious environment stability problems if I run a wet/dry filter running on such a small tank? What advice can you give me for my small system with this filter? I've never used a wet/dry filter before. <Not too much of "problems" if you limit the source of the nitrates (livestock, feeding), increase the amount of "nitrate users" (photosynthetic life, including micro-, macro-algae... lighting...), and purposeful denitration (live rock, substrate...)> I plan to use live rock and live sand in this tank. How will this interact with the wet/dry filtration? How much live rock would you recommend for this tank? <Twelve pounds or so...> Do I need a protein skimmer on a small tank like this? If so, what brand and size would you recommend? <I would have a skimmer yes... a necessarily small one... hang-on... perhaps a modified Skilter (with airstone), a SeaClone, a Prizm if you can stand the noise, even a small BakPak by CPR... > Finally, any other advice you can give me before I embark on this journey. I'm absolutely willing to put a lot of time and effort into this tank, I just need to know what to do! Jill <Where to start here? You appear to have the most important requisites: an open, clear, curious/demanding mind... keep reading, chatting with others... and enjoy your new experiences... go slow here... savor each "step"... Bob Fenner> Fish ! Mr. Fenner, or if I may be so bold, Bob, <Certainly, we are friends, and this/that is my name.> Oh dear, I have a tale to tell, I was very generously given a aquarium recently 30 gallon glass Eclipse top model and went on to fit it with underwater filter, power head heat gravel and salt water .. a few weeks later live rock and three damsel fish. another few weeks later .. tested the water and everything was ok ! hurrah time for some other fish .. I bought three snails, two Firefish and a prawn goby .. wonderful .. the Firefish hid .. so I tried in vain to catch the damsel ( after advice from the fish man ) so took out all the rock and eventually caught them . Then the Firefish came out to play. <Ahh, good.> Everything seemed fine until I start really getting excited about the tank and the fish and am now seeing the limitations of the eclipse tank and have been told I can't have coral maybe able to get polyps or some mushrooms ( I changed my lights for two half blue bulbs - sorry I don't know the technical spec on them ). <No worries> I believe I have some good algae .. and even some little things that look like small feather dusters growing from the live rock .. but also some nasty red/maroon algae that has long hairs growing of it. <Ahh, yes... we'll address below> So to my questions: A) .. the red /maroon algae ( looks a little slimy ) - is this bad stuff - if so how should I get rid of it without harming the other things growing on the rock ? <Sort of bad stuff... or more carefully, sign/indication of "bad conditions" that allow it to arise. Please read through the "Blue Green Algae/Cyanobacteria" and associated FAQs sections posted on the www.WetWebMedia.com site re this... don't let the name throw you... this is what this stuff is> b) what can I really have in the tank - are polyps a pipe dream ? - is it so bad to have an Eclipse tank that I should get rid of it and start again ? or what can I do to make my tank work ? <You can have a few types of hardy stinging-celled life in such a system... good to retrofit a protein skimmer on... and add lighting in some cases...> c) My Firefish started fighting and one of them has disappeared .. the same guy who sold them to me now tells me that yes two will fight .. so why did not he tell me that before when I bought them ? <Only he can tell you. But yes, these microdesmids need lots of "floor space"... about an Eclipse 30's worth per one...> How can I tell if the people in the aquarium shops are telling me the right info ? <Ahhh, you ask very good questions... i.e. ones that are very difficult to answer. Perhaps they don't know all (I certainly do not)... Maybe they feel compelled to "give answers" for fear of appearing foolish? I don't know. I am of the opinion that "each must decide for themself", and that this should be a source of joy, celebration in our lives... You must need study, investigate any important aspect of your life till you feel "you know enough" to make "good decisions"... especially in the case/stead of caring (totally) for other living entities.> Please help. <I always will my friend> Worried of Los Angeles. <Seek and you will find. Bob Fenner> . E Jane Gotts . Re: San Diego saltwater reef clubs Hi Robert, Tried contacting Maurice to no avail, I'll give it another week. <Maybe try his cell: 619-529-3782... he doesn't mind, and is really a super guy. His computer may be out... again! And do look on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com for links to the L.A. and O.C. clubs (don't think the SD one is up and running again/yet... And Ron and the boys at Octopus' Garden generally list when we're all getting together next...> Since speaking with people and doing research, I've notice going bigger in gallons doesn't cost that much more. <You're so right> Originally I was thinking 75 gallons, but now I'm thinking why not 60x18x23 (125G) glass by LeeMar. <Good tanks, folks> 125lb live rock, 3" oolite/aragonite sand bed, Turboflotor T1000, 20gallon sump, 2x150w heaters, drilled glass on bottom (no overflow box). 4-48" 55watt PC retrofit. What do you think? <Sounds very nice> Have you ever dealt with Aquarium City in the LA area? They seem to have good prices, $2.75/lb on uncured live rock. <Not really... the rock does look like a deal... I'd go investigate firsthand before deciding... and give the local shops a chance to match/beat the price on fresh, new rock here in SD> Thanks again. looking forward to your new edition. <Me too! Bob Fenner> Cloudy water Hi Mr. Fenner. I have a 10 gallon starter tank (saltwater) with two Damsels. I was wondering what t type of bottom feeder you would recommend to help keep my tank clean? The tank floor is half sand half rock a little smaller than marble size rocks). Thanks from Jesse Jr. & 3rd. <Maybe a small Blue Legged Hermit Crab... Bob Fenner> Re: cloudy water Thanks for the help. I was unable to find a blue legged crab so I got a red legged one. Will it due till I'm able to get the blue one, and will they work well together. <This one will do for now... but actually, there are several species of Red Legged Hermits and some are eater-uppers (especially when large) rather than cleaner uppers... I would remove, trade this one back in when you can get the more peaceful Blue Leg> Also how do you fill about chemicals to clear up cloudy water, do you have one you would recommend or do you disapprove? Thanks from your newest readers; Jesse jr. &Jesse 3rd. <I am not a fan of water clarifiers for most all types of tanks and applications. For one, some of them are hard on livestock, but mostly their use masquerades the need to address the root cause(s) of the tank water cloudiness... Figure out why your system isn't clear and solve the imbalance. This is more often than not due to placing livestock too much, too soon, but overfeeding, misfeeding of the wrong foods, inadequate filtration, circulation, aeration are also common causes. Bob Fenner, who says to read the set-up articles on the website: www.WetWebMedia.com> Coral banded shrimp and other reef concerns dear Mr.
Fenner I received a 55 gallon tank and stand with a twin tube
strip light for Christmas. <What a nice gift!> I will
be setting up a reef aquarium. I have read in your book or site
that beginners should use a wet/dry when attempting corals is this
true? <Hmm, not necessarily... Better to not use the wet-dry
media itself at any length.... And better still to use the sump of
these sorts of filter units as refugiums... with live rock,
macro-algae, their own lighting (on 24 h/d or alternating with the main
tank's... Please see the set-up (for marine, reef systems) sections
and FAQ files on the www.wetwebmedia.com site> I went ahead and
bought a tidepool system with a bio wheel supposed to work better
than bioballs) and an overflow box. I just received my SeaClone
protein skimmer in the mail. Do you recommend this skimmer? <I do,
for only small systems... and/or ones that are intentionally to be
under-skimmed... and/or ones that are very "mature"... i.e.
that don't/won't produce much to be removed. Sea Clone's
are for small, very established systems...> I have heard really good
things about them. Will the twin tube strip light work for a reef (no
stony corals)? <About twice this amount of lighting is
advised... even if these are compact fluorescents... again, see the WWM
site for much more on the topic> I plan on cycling with live rock
and sand for 1 to 2 months. I really would like to do this reef the
right way. <I'm with you> My real questions are about
my 10 gallon fish/liverock/invert tank. Here are the stats: 10
gallon tank millennium 2000 filter 7 lbs live rock 1
green Chromis 1 ocellaris clown 1 coral banded shrimp
1 turbo snail 10 assorted hermits <Maybe put the
SeaClone on this system> I just lost a Chromis to unknown causes.
Water quality was fine. The fish always hung out by the heater and
I've heard of other fish doing this was this a warning sign?
<Doesn't sound good... small tanks are hard to keep stable and
optimized... maybe there was simply not enough aeration/dissolved gas
exchange...> He was found in the clutches of a scarlet hermit.
He never looked healthy to me. My MAIN question is about my coral
banded shrimp- he lost a pincher now I know he will grow it back
but is this a sign of bad water quality or lack of calcium had
just molted) I know its a lot but please answer about the shrimp
<Perhaps on the Stenopus... do leave any "parts" of
exoskeleton you find in the system there... and provide at least a
small glass or plastic tray of very fine (so-called oolithic) calcium
carbonate material on the bottom... and do check for at least calcium
as a necessary alkaline earth biomineral, and alkalinity...> Your
faithful follower Andrew PS can I use my SeaClone to help
get rid of some BG algae while I get all parts for big tank?
<Certainly this will help> thanks in advance <Your
ardent fellow aquarist and instructor, Bob Fenner> Lighting? A small hexagon tank Robert, I read your book and it was very informative, however I was wondering--I am about setup a 28gal. hexagon tank (18x20) and it will be setup as a reef tank and I am wondering how much light in general I will need? <Hmm, depends of course on a few things... like what sorts of life you intend to keep (some need bright/intense full spectrum illumination to drive photosynthesis, others like the Lionfishes can be blinded by too much light... And your desires: do you want to culture macro-algae? Keep brilliant colors in Small Polyped Stony Corals? For your size, shape tank, I'd investigate either some of the small "foot-stamp" compact fluorescents or at the upper end, a small metal halide. Bob Fenner, who encourages you to peruse the sections on light, lighting for marine systems and the associated files and FAQs posted at www.wetwebmedia.com> Conscientious Marine Aquarist and a few questions Mr. Fenner, I am very grateful for your wonderful book, which has helped me a great deal in setting my first saltwater tanks in the past year. My current endeavour is a 12 gallon nanoreef eclipse that I have retrofitted with PC lighting and an internal skimmer. I think it is a cheap yet effective and attractive solution if implemented correctly. <Yes, agreed... even though small, very workable in the hands of a thoughtful, observant aquarist> It started off as a simple fish only tank, but then I got the addiction and had to try more. I started the tank on May 15, 2000 with a yellow tailed blue damsel. I changed the stock bulb to a 50/50 bulb which is a great and cheap improvement for a fish only tank in my option. I bought a Tronic heater, crushed coral substrate, and used standard tap water (which is pretty good in my area) to start the tank. <Sounds good> To make a long story a little shorter, I am now starting to make the tank into a reef system. It has been running stably for 6 months now, and I have added 33 watt Custom sealife PC lighting (1 actinic, 1 10k) and a Sander Piccolo Skimmer (which fits exactly inside the top of the hood) over the past few months. I have about 20 lbs of live rock, which is extremely high quality (full of coralline algae, sponges, etc), a cleaner shrimp, and an ocellaris clown in addition to hermits and snails. <Sounds even better. Know (am friends with) the Sanders family/company in Germany... will send this note along> Tank Maintenance: 15% water change weekly, temperature matched Change filter cartridge every 2 weeks Weekly supplement full line of Kent Marine liquid reef supplements except calcium Calcium Marin Plus powder .5 tsp 2x weekly Seachem Marine buffer (in water changes) Tank Parameters: 80 Degrees (+-1) ph: 8.1 ammonia: 0 nitrite: 0 nitrate: 5 Calcium: 375 I ordered a mushroom colony and red open brain coral from Jeff's Exotic Fish about 2 months ago. While the mushrooms are doing great, when the brain arrived it was practically white and had skeleton exposed. I have been nursing the brain back to health since then and it is doing a lot better. I have it in the middle height of the tank right under the light, and feed it pieces of shrimp occasionally. It has been healing and the skeleton that was exposed before is now closing up. I have read everything I could find about how to care for this coral, but couldn't find much on how to save it. The red and green colors are intensifying, and it is puffing itself a lot more than before. I noticed that when I would do water changes or add the calcium powder, it would spew out red strings out of its mouth (its symbiotic algae I assume) so I am much more careful now. I make sure I temperature match the water changes and slowly sprinkle the calcium marin plus over the filter to prevent any shock. <Good techniques> These measures usually have worked and the brain does now spew out any algae anymore. I do have a few concerns however. Tonight when it was shrinking back to its skeleton like it does every night before the lights go out, it spewed some brownish-red looking stuff out of its mouths. Could it be waste from the shrimp I fed it last night, or is it spewing its algae again? <Likely waste products> I have been trying so hard to bring this coral back (and pretty much succeeding I think) that seeing this was a major disappointment. Any help on treating and caring for the red open brain coral would be greatly appreciated. I have great respect in your conscientious approach to the marine hobby, and try to emulate your philosophy as much as I can. I have gotten a lot of my friends into the hobby as well in the past few months and try to get them to be conscientious as well. This is why I would like your opinion on whether or not I should put a Mandarin in my nanoreef. <Maybe a Morrison's of such... I am leery of the Pterosynchiropus species in such a small system... unless you were able to supply more live foods from elsewhere (a tied in sump/refugium...), you would likely find the fancier species succumbing to starvation... albeit slowly> After reading your book, I didn't even think of the possibility, but the owner at the well respected LFS said I could support one just fine. I had told him about the huge number of amphipods and copepods I see in the tank, especially at night. There is a huge number of these "bugs" as well as worms and small starfish in the tank, and I am hoping that I can also get the mandarin to eat some kind of live or frozen food to supplement its diet. <Not non-live foods at all... like I say, please do practice with a Neosynchiropus species... it doesn't take long in a twelve gallon system for "all those pods and worms" to be gone...> I would like to have one very much but I do not want it to slowly starve to death or not be happy. What do you think? <my opinions above...> Thank you so much for all the valuable information you offer to the hobby and for your time as well. -Bryan Lutz <And thank you for being part of the experience and sharing it with me. Bob Fenner> A Proclamation: Small Marine Systems can be wonderful and cheap to set up and run Hello Mr. Fenner, After reading through several of your opinions, I think you are nearly precise on virtually all topics covered, except one. <Only one? I disagree with myself about half the time!> I am what a professional such as yourself would consider a "light-weight" aquarist. In fact, I didn't even want to engage the marine aquaria realm, it was presented to me. I was given a 30 gallon standard aquarium for a gift last year, and while examining my options at the local fish shop, I decided to go salt. Using bare minimum set-up: Whisper filter(!), air pump, shell substrate, 2lb live rock and nothing more, I set out on my journey. <Hmm, well-stated> This was nearly one year ago. Since then I have battled ich (moment of silence for my tiny Valentini puffer, certainly the cutest fish I have ever seen). I have had my base rock shift at night and crush my little "Hippo" tang while he slept (please pour some beer out for this homie of mine)<Can I be under it?> and had another little "Hippo" eaten alive while he slept by a hulking $2 hermit crab (who was duly executed as set forth in the Newman Manifesto of proper and courteous treatment of more valuable specimens than oneself...just kidding). As stated, I have had my share of disappointments, but these were merely speed-bumps. <Ah, yes, as we all have> I am just writing to inform you that a successful tank can be raised with minimal capitol, minimal tank size, and minimal initial know how....I did it. <Ah, is this our "principal dividing point?" I beg to explain my carte blanche opinion/stance... To advise/warn folks of the real potential for loss(es) and expense I've "drawn the line" at forty gallons... and a proviso that this can be (though not necessarily) costly avocation> My current 30g tank utilizes the same Whisper filter; no protein > skimmer, no doo-dads, no doo-hikies, no halogens, no VHO's, no ozonators, > ozonizers, no ozone VHO-UVizer's, no flouro-couro-carbon filament extracts, > no mercury sucker, and no fish telepathy module...just good common sense. <Well done> My current tank houses 7 fine fish specimens (+ inverts) all of which are happy and healthy (my Box fish will kiss your finger if you don't believe me... and my clown tang is a beauty which has been thriving for more than 6 months) hmmm... no skimmer?? No, just good water quality. I have never had fatal temp. or chemical swings, and, to be honest, I don't understand your shameless bashing of small aquariums. I enjoy mine, spend minimal time on it, and now that I have better lighting, it is a marvelous little tank. I realize that my fish will eventually out-grow their current setting, but my LFS will gladly take them back for store credit. Final point: Big tanks and big equipment go hand in hand, small tanks and small equipment go hand in hand, please revise your piece on small set-ups because had I read it, I may have never gotten into this fulfilling hobby. P.S. My fish deaths earlier explained were during my "learning period", since then, all added fish act as if their in the Pacific. <Won't change my stand just yet... As you can appreciate, YOU are intelligent and thoughtful, YOU are perseverant, YOU are observant... And yes, as a lad in the sixties worked in the Philippines on/with systems w/o gear entirely (no lighting, heating, filtration...) that were by current standards "full blown reefs"... so do know/acknowledge that more gear/technology does not translate directly to success... But try to understand the need for general statements in writing about the hobby, and need for "rules of thumb" in regards to the issues you present... Have been in the ornamental aquatics business and hobby for thirty five years... and the turnover in the interest is currently more than all folks leaving every year... You tell me "why"? Many factors (poor livestock quality, choices... for instance), but very much a lack of useful, readily available practical/husbandry information... Where would you "set the bar" at suggesting starting system size for instance? Think about this... And imagine how many folks would just quit the hobby (and the ripple effect, "You can't keep the....") and its repercussions in legislature, international trade in livestock... these losses might/would represent. Methinks you might shy on the side of being conservative here. My desire is to do what I can to ensure the success of the most aquarists I am able... Bob Fenner> New reef builder Mr. Fenner - I am a long time fresh water
owner attempting to develop a small reef tank. Most all that I've
read strongly discourages my 29 gallon project. However, I think with
careful attention to start-up and maintenance [along with lot's of
patience and a little luck] I can be successful. <Agreed...
one's likelihood increases with just the qualities you mention>
So far I have about 2.5 inches of live sand as a base in 1.021 density
water. I'm running a Whisper 40 carbon/bio-bag filter and have a
CPR Bak Pak2 [reef model] and your book arriving soon. The Whisper has
the water running crystal clear. However, ammonia is 1.5 mg/l. I
attribute this to the recent [4 days ago] live sand addition. I plan to
add @20lbs of live rock as the next step but, I'm holding off until
the skimmer is up and running. Then I will wait out the tank cycling
... nothing but filter and skimmer maintenance until the water tests
perfectly. <Sounds reasonable, and likely...> My questions:
Should I be trying to control ammonia during cycling, i.e. - small
water changes? Does this start-up plan sound O.K.? <Good question,
and no to trying to "control" ammonia... and your set-up and
routine sound fine thus far> I have enjoyed reading your FAQ
responses to other reef enthusiasts and respect your dedication to
marine ecology. Thanks - Tom Stecik, Dallas TX <Outstanding, and I
welcome you to our interest (or shall I say, further involvement) in
the marine parts of aquaristics. Bob Fenner> Eclipse System Six questions Bob, I'm hoping I've finally found a resource to get this question answered. I've talked to a few folks and am getting different answers about how many fish I can keep in my Eclipse System Six aquarium. I've had it up and running for about three months and have so far lost three different groups of fish. I've had Tiger Barbs (which I think are cool) but for some reason I keep killing them - actually they keep dying, it's nothing like homicide at all! This last time I talked with a fellow at a local shop who said that 3-4 was the maximum for that size tank. After looking like things were going well the fish developed white spots which the gentleman said was ick and sold me some treatment which I used. After five days of this treatments I had two fish left and am now down to 0 Barbs and one algae eater. I'm getting kind of concerned. I really would like to have a tank but I'm getting kind of bothered about all the fish I've been killing. <3-4 of what size, type? Am concerned with these sorts of "rules of thumb"... one thing I would encourage you to do is actually add an airstone, pump, tubing, check-valve to give you and your fish livestock more "margin of error" and increased circulation, aeration... the Eclipse systems are good for what they do, but do not provide enough of these two qualities... and if the system pump goes, or the tank is accidentally overfed, a fish dies... the air pump/stone may well save the day.> I've tested the water and the only thing consistently wrong is that the PH seems to be to high. It is currently at 8.8 thought the gentleman at the shop said that he didn't think a high ph alone would be killing them. <It will with any detectable ammonia... and this is a real concern/problem with new systems... the two coupled together (ammonia/nitrite and high pH) are deadly.> I've thought about picking up some stuff I've read about called Proper PH which keeps the ph at around 8.2. Is this a good idea? How many fish can I keep in this tank and any suggestions for what kind I should try this time? <Yes to the pH product... and once the tank has been going for a while, you probably won't need it, or anything else... just frequent partial water changes... as the water has a tendency to "go acid" over time, and the new water will readjust it slightly upward.> Thanks ahead for any answers you can give me. Mandy Buckner Water trail Adventures LLC <Be chatting, Bob Fenner, Home Page > Compatibility, stocking a nano Yet another compatibility query. (YACQ?) First off, I did consult the compatibility tool, but as this is to be my first reef (and a nano at that) I wanted to ask someone directly. I have just ordered a new MRT from CPR, a self contained 13 gallon tank (including the overflow into the skimmer / sump). I am planning on adding ~15 pounds of your Pago live rock to it, ~12 pounds of live sand, a couple of fish and inverts. I am most concerned with the fish compatibility. After much research, I am quite taken with the Banggai cardinals and would like to keep two to see if they might breed. I would also like to keep a 6 line wrasse as I am planning to put a couple of clams in the tank as well and it may help with pest control. Will these 3 fish (and a couple of clams, some star polyps and not much else) be ok in such a small tank? >> IMO, not really... I would limit this small system to just one Banggai (they can be quite territorial), and maybe one other small fish... and not a Pseudocheilinus as one of the choices... and would definitely not place giant clam species in this size/type of tank... they're not easy to keep in vacillating water quality.... but the star polyps should be fine, and some other species of soft corals, Zoanthids, corallimorphs would go... Otherwise, keep saving for a bigger system. Bob Fenner 15 gal.s stocking Hey I have a question. I have 15g tank. What fish would you recommend in that tank? Thank you >> Maybe a couple of small fishes... like Grammas, smaller species of more peaceful damsels, a Basslet, an Engineer Goby, or a Gobiosoma Goby... maybe a couple of hardy invertebrates like a Cleaner Shrimp of some sort, a leather coral or two... a species of macro-algae... Maybe take a long look at the Selection (Marines in general and Reef), and survey pieces of livestock groups posted at my site: www.wetwebmedia.com for putting together your assortment. Many species/groups detailed there re their suitability, survivability, average maximum size in captivity... Bob Fenner
|
|
|
Features: |
|
| Featured Sponsors: |
