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FAQs about Small Marine Systems 7
Related Articles: Small Marine Systems, Tom
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The Hawaiian endemic cleaner wrasse.
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Tom Walsh, nana tanks 7/18/08
Dear sir
I have just read your article about your friends nano marine tanks and I would
just like to say thank you, it has put my mind at rest as to whether I should
start my own. I have a 68l tank and to be honest was worried about whether the
tank would be big enough or not,
<Small systems, marine and otherwise "can be done"... just with more care,
attention than larger, more stable, flexible systems of size>
I have a fluval 303 filter and will fill that with living rock to filter the
tank. As I am on a tight budget to say the least the article has given me the
confidence to try and set up a reef tank, I have had tropical fish for a long
time and am looking forward to getting my little reef tank up and running, once
again thank you
David
<Ahh! Do consider a small skimmer as well... even a modified Skilter as Tom
used. Bob Fenner>
Starting in Saltwater Aquarium - Cycling
and More, 6/27/08
Hello-
<Hi>
I just started to get into saltwater aquariums and bought a JBJ 24 gal Nano.
I know a lot of people say anything less than 60gal is not good, but I also know
that staying on top of everything is key.
<Yes, but it is much harder to do in a small tank.>
I have 24lbs of Tonga live rock, plus 12 lbs of live Sand. One of the issues I
have is Cycling with the live rock, do I turn my lights on or off during this
process? I have heard both, which one is it?
<I would run them normal hours.>
Also, I plan on only adding up to 6-8 fishes.
<Too many, 2-3 for this sized tank.>
2 Clown, 1 goby, 1 Bi color blenny, 1 bubble Anemone,
<Skip the anemone, way to difficult to keep in this sized tank and not for
beginners.>
several blue hermit crabs,
1 brittle starfish,
<Careful with these, some are fish eaters.>
2 peppermint shrimps. Does this sound okay?
<See above comments.>
Do you suggest anything else or is this too much?
<Take it slow and stock lightly.>
I would like to add some coral to this as well, what do you suggest if any?
<Mushrooms and zoos are pretty hardy and not too demanding, I would not go for
anything demanding at this time.>
Also, do you suggest any plants (Halymenia, Pink Galaxy)?
<Would skip unless you have a refugium to place them in.>
Also, the pump that came with the tank says it pumps 240 gph, should I add
another?
<I would add a couple of powerheads.>
I was thinking of putting 2 Hydro
Koralia 240 gph powerheads in as well. Too much?
<Should be fine.>
Should I get a wavemaker?
<I would not.>
Do I need a skimmer?
<I won't run a tank without a quality skimmer.>
What do you suggest?
<get a good one.>
And do I need to get a R.O Filter?
<Depends on the quality of your tap water.>
If so what do you suggest , I would like something I can attach/detach to a
faucet?
<Most have this adapter, I like www.airwaterice.com if you decide you need one.>
One last thing, the tank also came, with 6 bioballs and ceramic biomedia, I have
heard I could run with out these, what do you suggest?
<I would remove these.>
Sorry for all the questions, but I'd appreciate your help. Thanks again.
Marc P. Carbotte
<Please see here for more on new tank setups.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm .>
<Chris>
|
Setting Up a Small Species Specific Marine Tank – 05/31/08
Dear Crew,
<<Andy>>
Although my wife doesn't know it yet, I am thinking of converting the empty 30
gallon (long) tank I use as a quarantine tank into either a species specific
goby/shrimp combination or a collection of a Jawfish and a couple other small
fish (so many decisions in this hobby!).
<<Ah yes…but kudos to you on planning such a tank (species-specific).
Biotopic/species-specific systems have a much higher rate of success over
“garden-style” systems, in my opinion…and they look nice too!>>
I'm sure you know the dark powers of an empty, unused tank…
<<Indeed>>
My questions relate to how best to set this tank up. If possible, I would like
to make this tank as low-maintenance as possible. I've read the articles/FAQs on
goby/shrimp pairs so I have a general idea of what they require.
1. In either case, how would you suggest filtering this tank assuming a pretty
small bioload?
<<A small refugium and a skimmer>>
I think it's too small to warrant an overflow/drilled tank with a sump.
<<Not “too small”…but can be done without…if you keep the stocking level down
and are diligent about other maintenance/husbandry aspects (performing timely
water changes, not over-feeding, etc.)>>
I could use a small 10 gallon tank as a sump and fit that under the cabinet, but
I would like to avoid the extra pieces of equipment if possible.
<<I see>>
I was thinking that I could simply use 20-25lbs of live rock for filtration and
some strong power heads for circulation. Would this be okay (will this provide
sufficient aeration/oxygenation)?
<<It would be best, in my opinion, to add some type of surface extraction
(perhaps a small hang-on skimmer with such a device) to remove the accumulated
surface film, as this film will inhibit gas exchange>>
I have a spare (and crappy) skimmer sitting around, but (a) I'm not sure whether
it would be needed for this setup and (b) it's kind of big for a 10 gallon
sump--I really don't want to spend a hundred+ dollars on an AquaC urchin if I
really don't need a skimmer.
<<Perhaps their “Nano” skimmer would be right up your alley re this tank>>
2. I've read that the goby/shrimp combo would need 2-3" course substrate and
rock rubble.
<<A 4” depth would be better>>
Of the following, what would be the best "course" substrate: CaribSea Aragamax
Select (0.5mm-1.5mm), Seaflor Special Grade (1mm-2mm), Super Reef (0.5mm-2mm) or
Bermuda Pink (2mm-5.5mm)?
<<The latter…mixed at a 1-3 ratio with fine Aragonite sand>>
Also, regarding the rock rubble requirement, does that mean that I shouldn't
include larger pieces of live rock, or just that I need to make sure that I have
enough rubble to keep them happy?
<<You can have the larger pieces…just be sure to leave a good deal of “open”
sand bed>>
I think using larger pieces of live rock for the bulk of the rockwork would be
more efficient/cheaper in the long run.
<<Maybe…but you don’t want to “fill-up” the tank with large pieces of rock>>
If I used larger pieces, I would set them on the glass bottom before I added the
substrate to ensure stability/safety of the animals.
<<Okay>>
Is it possible to mix more than one goby/shrimp combo in this small volume?
<<Maybe…but I wouldn’t>>
3. I've read that Jawfish need 3+" of substrate--three quarters fine substrate
and one quarter course.
<<Mmm…pretty much the same as the Goby/Shrimp combo, yes>>
For the fine, would you suggest sugar fine sand, or something a little larger
like the Aragamax Select (0.5mm-1.5mm)?
<<I prefer the sugar-fine…along with a mix of larger bits as discussed
previously>>
Do you mix the fine with course, or layer the fine on top of the course?
<<I would “mix” the courser material in to the top inch or so of sand>>
4. I don't plan on keeping any corals or light-craving inverts in this tank, so
I assume a standard NO fluorescent light would be sufficient?
<<Yup!>>
I appreciate all your help.
Andy
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
Re: Setting Up a Small Species Specific
Marine Tank - 05/31/08
Thanks Eric!
<<You are quite welcome, Andy>>
Do you know anything about the Finnex brand of tank?
<<Afraid I don’t…but I do use their Titanium heaters>>
My LFS is selling a 30g complete setup (tank, fuge, skimmer, T5 lighting, PC
fuge light, pumps, and cabinet stand) for $599. When I add up all the things I
would need to make my current 30g doable for a species tank (skimmer, stand,
small fuge, etc.) I am not too far off of that price.
<<Maybe a bargain then>>
I'm sure the component I would add would be better than the Finnex, but…
Andy
<<Ah yes, I do know what you mean. It is my preference to “build my own” systems
for this very reason. Cheers, Eric Russell>>
R2: Setting Up a Small Species Specific
Marine Tank - 06/02/08
Dear Eric,
<<Hello Andy>>
Just a note to tell you that I went ahead and purchased the Finnex 30g cube.
<<Cool>>
It had a small scratch on the side, so the LFS owner gave me a slight discount.
<<Always nice>>
It is a slick little tank in theory--we'll see how well it actually works.
<<Indeed>>
It has a built in skimmer, wet-dry filter (whatever that means . . .),
<<Really? Are also known as “trickle” filters…see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i6/trickle_filters.htm >>
a compartment for a heater, a small built-in refugium with a PC light, a return
pump, 4x24W T5 HO, 2 actinics and 2 10,000K (although it can also come with a
150W HQI), and a cabinet stand. It was very easy to setup.
<<All-in-one for sure but…these units are generally lacking (filter
size/capacity, water flow, et al) in my opinion…though they can be utilized with
thought to their shortcomings…or modifications of…>>
I took your advice and set it up with 4" of mixed aragonite sand/course
substrate, with about 15lbs of cured live rock and some clam shells.
<<Very good>>
I seeded it with a cup of substrate and a few pieces of LR rubble from my 110g,
and then threw in some Chaetomorpha from my fuge into the fuge.
<<Excellent>>
It is a very neat setup. Once I am sure the water is stable, I'm going to
purchase a Yellow Watchman Goby and Pistol Shrimp.
<<Do keep an eye out for/request a “collected pair” if possible as the animals
do not “automatically” pair up just because you place them together in your
aquarium>>
I may add the mushroom rocks that are currently in my 110g reef, which is SPS
dominated. I figure the lighting is adequate for these Corallimorphs and getting
them out of my SPS tank would be beneficial to the SPS.
<<If in great quantity or in physically encroaching, yes, probably so>>
Cheers,
Andy
<<Be chatting mate. EricR>>
R3: Setting Up a Small Species Specific
Marine Tank - 06/03/08
Eric,
<<Andy>>
I do know what a wet-dry is--just skeptical of this particular one.
<<Ah, okay…(and “whew!” [grin])>>
It is basically a box with a piece of foam in it.
<<Hmm…maybe replace this with a bag of chemical media…or a piece of Poly-Filter
pad>>
The water is supposed to flow from the skimmer, up and over the lip on the
filter box, down through the filter, under the fuge compartment, out to the
return pump, through the fuge, and into the display.
<<This sounds fine/good>>
I removed the foam and replaced it with a bag of activated carbon.
<<Ah well, great minds…>>
My return pump (475 gph) was dead, so my LFS swapped out a Rio 800 (how do they
even sell the Rio??--it's basically a bubble maker)
<<Is cheap…and easy to push on to the uninitiated>>
until he can get me a replacement pump tomorrow.
<<Excellent>>
For now, the filter box is completely submerged--maybe that will change when I
get the right pump.
<<Yes, probably so>>
The one thing I will say about this tank is that the manual is totally
inadequate/basic and very hard to use in reality. I contacted the manufacturer,
and it was responsive but not very insightful.
<<A shame…considering these are assumedly “plug-and-play” units>>
Take care.
Andy
<<And you my friend. EricR>>
|
What do you think about my tank, Marine
Setup 5/2/08
Hello my name is Sony Onatte and I am a newbie in terms of saltwater tanks,
although I have had a freshwater tank for about 2 years.
<Hello>
I started my saltwater tank around mid January 2008. I have a 30 gal long Aqueon
(all glass) tank, 20lbs of live sand, at least 40lbs of live rock and an extra 4
lbs of live rock rubble in an AquaClear 110 that only has the rubble and ceramic
holes in it. Although they said it couldn’t be done; my filtration system is
made up of (2) AquaClear 110’s (500gph)one with just rubble and ceramic and the
other with one foam pad ceramic hole and a Chemi pure pad with a prefilter pad
on the entrance to both intakes. I have an AquaC remora with a MaxiJet pump 1200
(295gph) with prefilter box, and have modified it by connecting a tube to the
cup and draining it so the skim never falls back into the tank due to overflow.
1 AquaClear 70 (400gph) and a Hydor Koralia 2 (600gph) power heads. My lighting
system is a Current USA power compact with Dual Daylight Lamp (6700K & 10,000K),
1 Dual Actinic Lamp (420nm/460nm) and 3 Lunar Lights. Which the actinic turn on
at 8am – 10pm and the daylight 12pm – 8pm then the lunar’s turn on.
<Ok>
I have 2 small black Amphiprion ocellaris and 2 small orange Amphiprion
ocellaris,
<Chances are one pair will kill off the other in this sized tank.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clnfishart2.htm >
1 small flame angel,
<Needs a larger tank
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/Centropyge/loricula.htm >
2 small engineer goby’s,
< Pholidichthys leucotaenia? They get huge.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pholodichthyidae.htm >
and 1 green spotted dragonet.
<Also needs a much larger and mature tank,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mandarins.htm .>
20 – 25 scarlet crabs and zebra’s. 15 snails, 1 lettuce slug, 2 scarlet shrimp,
1 camel and 1 peppermint shrimp,
<the camel has been known to get aggressive.>
1 two in maxima clam and a 3 in crocea clam, 1 sand sifting starfish
<the star needs a larger tank and will clean out your live sand bed, making it
not so live.>
and at least 2500 cope and other pods. As for corals I have a 3in Mycedium sp, 3
in encrusting purple Montipora nodosa, 4in Trachyphyllia radiate, 3in Turbinaria
peltata, 4 stalks of pulsating xenia, 3in hammer coral pink, 3in green
frogspawn, 3 stalk grey frogspawn, orange and pink Zoo’s and green Zoo’s, 2
different species of trumpet corals and tiny Actinodiscus sp.
<You have a lot of life in a new tank, need to slow down here.>
I supplement the tank with Kent marine: ZooPlex, iodine, Xtreme garlic, and
marine C. Brightwell aquatics: zooplanktos S, zooplanktos m, zooplanktos L,
alkaline 8.3m and liquid reef. I also feed marine S and new life spectrum, brine
shrimp, mysis, and squid. My nitrate, nitrite, ammonia are all at 0. My ph is at
8.2, DKH 11, and calcium 470. I started to add fish in Feb because my tank
cycled fast since I used live water, live sand and live rocks.
<Cycling is not all that happens, new tanks are prone to rapid shift is water
parameters, not all of which are measure/tested.>
Everything was at zero and ph was stable before I added fish though. All my
corals are doing fine and have been for a while and some have actually grown in
these few months. Now that this is all been said I just wanted to know if my
lighting is insufficient for my inhabitants and what you thought of my set up. I
know this might be a little crowded even though everything is very small now.
I’m planning to upgrade to a bigger tank in a year or so. Also if you had any
tips or recommendations for a beginner like me let me know.
Sony M. Onatte
<I would think about removing all the fish except 1 pair of clowns, the others
are not appropriate for this sized tank. Also, while you have chosen generally
hardy corals you will most likely run into problems with allelopathy with so
many corals in such a small tank. Frequent water changes will be necessary to
keep these chemicals in check.>
<Chris>
Aquapod Pump/Water flow
4/11/08
Hi there,
<Hi Alex.>
I have one simple (hopefully simple) question.
<OK>
I currently have a Hydor Koralia 1 providing the majority of water flow in my 12
gallon AquaPod as well as the output from the filter that came
with the tank. What I am looking for is something that will change direction and
not constantly flow water in the same pattern. Is there
something out there that perhaps toggles it's direction continuously so as to
minimize the "dead spots" for grunge and build up?
<Hmm, yes. SeaSwirls, Ocean Motions, SCWD, and WavySea are a few that work well.
They are also large and expensive for a 12 gal (except maybe the SCWD). For your
output on the pump look at the Hydor Flo Deflector. It is not the best, but it
is cheap and works. You just need to clean it as part of your regular
maintenance. You can achieve about the same results by directing the powerhead
and pump flow at each other. This will give you a varied flow.>
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Alex
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Tank upgrade 03/27/2008
Hello to the Crew!
<<Afternoon, Andrew today>>
You have been a great help in the past so here it goes -
<<Thanks>>
I have a few questions concerning upgrading tank sizes. I currently have a 29
gallon marine aquarium with the following:
About 25 pounds of live rock
2" of substrate
Protein skimmer
Large hang-on filter
2 30" Coral Life T-5 fixtures each with 1-10,000k and 1-actinic
1-Scopus Tang <<Yikes!!!!>>
1- Ocellaris Clown
3-Chromis
1-Cleaner Shrimp
Clean-up Crew - Snails, Crabs Etc.
Several Soft Corals and a couple LPS
I am contemplating upgrading to a 46 Gallon an am looking for the best advise on
the transition:
1 - I would like to change substrate (to a smaller particle size) Is this
possible and what is the best way?. I may keep the original tank and
substrate as a coral propagation tank and quarantine.
<<Aragonite sugar grade reef sand, made by Caribsea is a good choice>>
2 - What is the best sequence for the change i.e.. all at once or in phases?
<<As long as your taking all the filtration over to the new tank and you have
enough containers, then do it all in one go>>
3 - How much Live Rock do you recommend for a 46 Gallon Tank.
<<Min 46lbs>>
4 - I am also looking into upgrading some of the equipment i.e.. lighting and
filter, sump or refugium
<<Sounds good and will benefit the system in the long run>>
Side issue - I seem to have a major outbreak of limpets. Is there a way to
control or rid the tank of these little guys?
<<Just simply remove by hand, leave a couple in there afterwards if you like>>
Any help would be appreciated.
<<A side note on the above stocking. The tank is neither suitable for the
current tank, nor the suggested upgrade, i would suggest a minimum of 100
gallons for this SP. of tang, preferably more. Please do fine a bigger home>>
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>
Re: Tank upgrade 03/30/2008
Thanks for the info
<<nopro
For my clarification, you think is would be ok to provide all new substrate in
the larger tank and move everything else at once including water. Will there be
any establishment period using all new substrate?
<<Yes, I would actually prefer to use a new sandbed. Yes, it will take time to
re-establish. Maybe take a couple of cups from the top few centimetre's of an
established reef to give it a boost>>
Also should I fill the remaining 17 gallons of water using newly mixed water or
water from an established tank from my trusted LFS?
<<You may as well go ahead and use new mixed saltwater, it wont harm anything>>
Lance
<<Thanks for the follow up Lance, hope this helps. A Nixon>>
Re: Tank upgrade - additional
question regarding pump 04/05/2008
With my new 46 gallon bowfront now in place I am trying to determine the
best way to get the water circulation that is desired for fish and coral. I am
thinking of placing two Koralia 1 (400 GPH) pump in each upper back corner. In
addition to that I my also place a Mag 900 with a rotating
diffuser in the upper middle on a timer. I also will have the return for the
skimmer and filters entering the tank as well. Ultimately the question is do
I use Koralia 1's (400 GPH) or 2's (600 GPH)
<<I would go with 2 Koralia #2, this will give you a good amount of flow for a
reef. I feel the #1 are a little under rated for this tank>>
What are your thoughts?
<<Thanks for the follow-up. A Nixon>>
29 Gallon Marine Set-Up...Not
much detail...or proper grammar [3-23-08]
Hi there <<.>>
<Hello Gene.>
im <<I’m>> thinking about getting a 29 gal. oceanic tank and going salt water
with it.
<<Okay.>>
what <<What>> do you think about the set up on the tank,
<<I’m not sure I understand what you mean…I don’t see a described set-up, just
the proposed tank. I can tell you that if this is your first marine system I
would much rather you go with something in the 40 gallon range with more surface
area (perhaps a “breeder” variation). While not necessarily qualifying as a nano
aquarium you will run into many of the same challenges. Please read this;
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm . Without knowing what the
targeted livestock will be it is difficult to go into any more detail. As far as
the oceanic brand, it is reputable/reliable as far as glass tanks go.>>
thanks <<Thanks>> for your time Gene<<.>>
<<You are welcome –Adam J.>>
Starting an AquaPod reef...
3/14/08
Hey Crew!
Quick question...I've got a 12 gallon nano reef, up and running for 2 months now
with one small clown, blood shrimp and 4 blue legged hermit crabs occupying this
tank. Prior to putting the shrimp and clown in the tank I did my water tests and
everything was perfect. Since putting in the shrimp and the clown and eventually
the 4 crabs (who were supposed to be a clean up crew but as far as I'm concerned
they make more mess than they clean - I'll be getting rid of them tomorrow and
replacing them with smaller blue or red hermit crabs) my ammonia has shot
through the roof to 2.0.
<How much did you suddenly start feeding the tank when you added the livestock?
The combination of the added livestock and food might have been too much too
soon.>
I know the obvious way to bring the ammonia down is to do more aggressive water
changes or perhaps more frequently, but as I experienced last week; when pouring
in the salt due to it's small nature of the nano the corals get burned from the
contact with the salt (mental note....pre-mix)...can you recommend any piece of
equipment that can help me with keeping the ammonia down? If it was a normal
setup I would immediately purchase a protein skimmer but as I am now realizing,
these nano tanks aren't all they're cracked up to be
<Bingo. They're often without adequate filtration.>
as there is NO space for a skimmer or at least not one that I can find. Any of
the nano skimmers I have found involve me altering the hood which I am not
confident in doing. Is there a nano skimmer out there that will help me, perhaps
if I threw in a mangrove plant?
<A mangrove won't help. It wouldn't do well in such a tank anyway. Honestly,
there's not a whole lot you could do that wouldn't involve altering the hood to
add filtration or drilling the tank to add a sump. This is the trouble with nano
tanks systems. If you don't want to alter the tank, you'll have to find a way to
do the heavy, frequent water changes (i.e. pre-mix your water, etc.).>
HELP ME PLEASE!!
Thanks so much! I've been a reader for over 5 years now and have enjoyed every
minute of it!
<De nada and good luck,
Sara M.>
|
I think I have a good
plan now correct me where wrong... small reef set-up.
02/11/2008
Hello again crew,
<<G'morning, Andrew today>>
after having read a good deal, can't say everything but everything I
could get my hand on I think I have come up with a decent plan for a
mini-reef.
30 gallon tank (36 inch long variety), 35 lbs of Tonga and Fiji LR 1"
sand bed in display, RDSB of 8" of sugar fin aragonite, 2 # Koralia
pumps, rated flow totals about 1200gph, a remora skimmer, and a 175 watt
MH HQI lamp.
live stock plan, Xenia and Sarcophyton, plan to get one of each at start
and prune and frag as necessary preferably having an arrangement of
Xeniid Sarco Xeniid Sarco Xeniid in final stage, rocks arranged to form
a large archway and two other arch like swim throughs.
<<Sounds superb>>
Possibly also having at the corners of tank so to speak "frag stations"
can not remember exact name but the platforms to place frag plugs into,
some sort of ceramic in nature, not eggcrate, have seen on marine depot
among other places, snails only, no crabs not even hermits, don't
entirely trust em.
For fish I will be having:
1 flame fish (worm fish)
<<Flame angel? Cardinal Flamefish?>>
1 or a pair of neon gobies
possibly a pair of Banggais or a small group of PJ cardinals, preference
given to Banggais though if would be more likely to have peace will go
PJs. I don't think this is over stocked but again correct me if I am
wrong.
<<Fish stocking list size sounds ok to me, more clarity needed on the
flame fish>>
Would also like to have in the open space away form the rock work a
small T. Derasa (knowing full well he will need to be moved to a larger
tank, which will happen upon moving to a house as opposed to the space
limitations imposed by apartment life.) though if you think I am likely
to have better success with a different clam again please tell me so.
<<Personally, I would leave the clam out and buy this when you "do" get
the larger aquarium. Sometimes we plan on going bigger in the future,
however, sometimes this does not always come in to fruition>>
the tank will remain all but uninhabited until I get better Coralline
growth unless you think I can add one of the gobies (be it neon or so
called goby firefish)
<<There is no need to wait for coralline to start growing before adding
fish/corals. You can happily start adding once the cycle has completed
and the tank stablised>>
I am not aware of any allelopathy issues, granted the Sarcophyton -
xenia arrangement I understand to be a good mix, form Mr. Calfo's book
and what I have found on the site, clam with softies seems to be okay
from what I have read so long as not touching (referring to "Clams and
Alcyoniids 1/16/07" and response by Mr. Fenner)
<<the choice of corals is fine in my opinion>>
Thank you so much again for your time and expertise, also as previously
stated, if you have better recommendations with regard to livestock
choice please feel free to suggest. Forrest
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>
Re: I think I have a
good plan now correct me where wrong 02/11/2008
ok will do so on the clam, also firefish, Nemateleotris magnifica.
<<Ahhh yes...beautiful fish, keep a nice tight lid on the tank as they
really do enjoy jumping to get in some carpet surfing>>
Thanks so much. should have used scientific name from get go I know.
Thanks a bunch again, keeping an eye on the levels gonna get the neon
and get him into qt shortly, figure month of qt for him and set up time
for the tank should get close, even if takes a little longer a neon goby
in a 10 should still be reasonably happy :)
<<yes, that sounds fine to me. Good luck with everything. A Nixon>>
|
Water flow, temperature and
placement inquiries... sm SW set-up 02/06/2008
hi WetWebMedia crew,
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
I just started a 20g saltwater aquarium and is now in the 3rd day of cycling my
tank. There are roughly 24 lbs of live rock with 4-5 inches of sand. I added a
1.5" domino damsel on its first day because they said adding one or two hardy
fishes can speed up the process. I noticed the fish just stayed at the bottom of
the tank looking weak and is even being carried away by the current. The fish
died overnight.
<<This is probably due to either stress or ammonia poisoning. Its pretty
inhumane to cycle a tank using fish, even the hardy variety. A more common
method employed now is to add the carcass of a raw/uncooked shrimp or prawn,
wrapped in fine nylon and added to the tank. This will decompose and produce the
much needed ammonia to start the cycle. When ammonia reaches about 4 - 5ppm,
remove the carcass and dispose of, then let the cycle continue its own course>>
Is my 800 liters per hour power head (roughly 200 gallons per hour) too much for
the small fish?
<<No, the amount of flow in your tank is fine at that level>>
I just took a reading of my temperature on the second day and noticed it was as
high as 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
<<Arrrhhhhhhhhh>>
I tried half submerging my power head but it hardly registered a change. I just
removed the glass top and managed to reduce the temperature down to 86 degrees.
I haven't installed any lighting system yet and I don't think I can afford a
cooler now. I'm still observing the tank overnight, but is there any advice you
can give me regarding my problem? I live in the Philippines and I'm more worried
especially now that summer is approaching. I'll try the fan-cooled approach but
I'm thinking it would only work on the air on top of my tank that would
primarily be heated by lighting. Room air conditioning is not also one of my
options.
<<Getting a clip on fan and having this blow across the water surface will help
a lot to reduce the temp. Another solution is to float a bag of ice in the tank,
or a sealed bottle of frozen water>>
If my case of temperature problem wont be easily solved, can you suggest a few
[hardy] fishes and corals that could be kept in relatively warm water?
<<Realistically, you do need to keep the temp down by employing the methods
above, or by adding a chiller>>
Also, would the aquarium being placed between two giant speakers do any harm to
my aquarium?
<<It should not no, but some stress may be exerted on the inhabitants if the
music level is too high, certainly not something I would recommend, loud noise>>
Thanks and best regards to your team, Ariel
<<Thanks for the questions Ariel, hope it helps. A Nixon>>
Equipment recommendations,
sm. reef 02/03/2008
Hello.
<<Hello, Andrew today>>
I am new to game of salt water and I am interested in setting up a 20 gallon
coral tank I understand you disagree with this but it is all I am able to set
up. I have been doing as much reading and research as possible and getting more
confused. I will be joining my local coral reef club but that will not be until
March. What I have is a standard 20 gallon tank 100 watt. heater. my canister
filter with a bio wheel. I want the tank to have live sand live rock some low to
med. light corals and eventually a couple of fish.
<<Sounds like a good plan>>
As for hardware if you could recommend what else I need to purchase amount of
lighting powerheads size of skimmer etc.
<<Powerheads, you could go for 2 Hydor Koralia Nano, which will give you about
26 x water circulation which is enough for the proposed inhabitants.>>
<<Lighting, around 100 - 150w of T5, power compacts>>
<<A Reverse Osmosis unit, about 50 or 75 gph is fine, 5 or 6 stage ( Reverse
Osmosis + DI would be better )>>
Like I said I have been getting mixed recommendations of using a filter or not
having too just live rock and sand . So I need some definite direction on my set
up and purchases. Thanks Mike
<<A hardware list can be endless really with a reef system. Of course, suggest a
specific area of equipment, and we shall do our best to advise>>
<<Thanks for the questions. A Nixon>>
Starting an AquaPod reef...
1/29/08
Hi Bob,
<Alex>
I’ve been a visitor of your site for as long as I can remember…one of the best
sites on the web and what a fantastic source for information.
<Am glad you find it useful>
I previously had a 100 gallon marine/reef setup for about 6 years and gained a
ton of knowledge through many ups and downs during that period. I’ve since been
without a tank (moved out of parents place) as I now live in a small condo that
does not have space for a 100 gallon setup. I purchased a 12 gallon Aquapod
yesterday and have done the obvious…2 inches of aragonite, 15 pounds of some of
the best liverock I’ve seen and I plan on leaving it to cycle for at least 3-4
weeks.
<Ok>
My question (sorry for babbling) is this, I’m a little paranoid that with the
AquaPod I might not be getting all the filtration I should get for an ideal reef
tank, there’s no protein skimmer (other than the surface skimmer it comes with)
and I don’t know how I would install one if it needs it.
<Best to add a small sump, remote there>
I plan on putting 1-2 mangrove plants in the tank to make up for that
<Mmm, not advised. Too likely to add pollution...>
as much as they can but like I said; my intentions down the road are to have it
as a reef tank. With the AquaPod equipment installed what can/should I do to
ensure as successful a reef tank as possible?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/small.htm
and the linked files above>
Besides the obvious water changes, media replacement. The fish will be kept to a
minimum of 1-3 tiny species along with about 20 hermit/zebra crabs, gold headed
goby (or jaw fish…same thing I think).
<Mmm, not enough space>
I’m wondering if there is a perfect combo of fish/crabs/goby/snail/shrimp that I
can get to keep this tank as self-maintaining as possible and as healthy as
possible. I am not trying to avoid maintenance on my end but because it is such
a small enclosure I would like to keep my hands out of the water as much as
possible and try to keep the tank disturbance to an extreme minimum.
Money isn’t a huge issue; if I need to spend it on a few things to capitalize on
my experience I’m more than happy to do so.
I understand that overall these questions could be answered through your FAQ
section but I could not find anything that hit on my exact situation; I thank
you so much for helping me out with this!
Take care,
Alex
<Keep reading, cogitating furiously Alex... All will come together. BobF>
New Marine Tank 1/26/08
We just started a saltwater tank 2 weeks ago.
<Congratulations.>
We have 2 inches of live sand and 5 pounds of live rock in a 29 gallon tank.
<I would increase the depth of the sand an inch or two, or decrease an inch or
so. See the link below regarding DSBs.>
We put 2 small tank raised clownfish plus 5 pounds of live rock in the very next
day after getting the aquarium set with salt plus live sand.
<Too quick to add to the tank. What species of clown?>
We put salt in and have a hydrometer. We tested the water last night and the
salinity, nitrate, ammonia, pH levels are good/stable.
<OK, will take your word all is good.>
We also did a 10% water change last night.
When would you recommend that we can put more fish in the aquarium and what
would you recommend we add as a new tank mate?
<Hmm…do you have any other filtration besides the live rock? Five pounds isn’t
much. What you can add will also depend on the type of clownfish you have added
to the tank already. Some species will outgrow the tank you currently have
setup.>
Thanks,
Tom
<Do read through the FAQ/articles regarding the livestock you have and wish to
purchase, paying close attention to stocking levels and compatibility. You
should also wait for your rock to “cure” and any other biofilter you may have to
cycle. I included several links below to get you started. Best of luck, Scott
V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i5/Filtration/Filtration.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clownfis.htm
Next reef decisions, sm. reef
set-up... – 1/18/08
Hello Crew hope you are all well,
I had previously sent an email subject line "polyps?" which I have managed to
take care of. The things were hydroids, which I have managed to get rid of,
basically did 20% water changes while scraping em off and sucking em out of the
tank they seem to have gone away, at least for now, have in the interim while
waiting for my skimmer been using carbon like crazy, the nitrates went sky high
apparently, while I was gone for Christmas. any way that problem solved I have
questions about a new set up I am contemplating.
Considering doing another small reef, maybe 29 maybe a 40 have yet to decide but
assuming I go for the 29 the plan is as follows.
a standard 29 gallon with a 10 gallon acting as a sump, I am considering doing a
remote DSB or possibly plenum setup in the 10, or just a refugium have yet to
decide would appreciate any input on that decision. also a shallow sand bed say
about 1-2" in the tank itself.
<See WWM re DSB depths: http://wetwebmedia.com/dsbdepth.htm>
want to do a relatively simple reef setup having live rock making a C-shaped
wall with a lagoon if you will in the center of the tank, over which I will hang
a metal halide (possible HQI) pendant and some actinic blues across the back. a
remora skimmer from Aqua C, not sure if hanging on tank is best or on sump.
thoughts?
<All sorts. They're posted: http://wetwebmedia.com/skimrs4smsysfaqs.htm>
I would like to have some sort of center piece in the lagoon, possible a
Tridacna possibly a Fungia or other LPS (I know the clam would eventually
outgrow this set up, how long would I have assuming I got a relatively small
one, say 1.5"- 2 "?
<... please, learn to/use the indices, search tool...>
continuing, possibly polyps or some other softie on the inside of the C and
considering Mushrooms on the outside of the C the outer wall is you will.
any suggestions about light height about tank or above substrate would be great.
I also would like to keep some small fish in the tank preferably gobies or
cardinals or both. as to which, I like all the cardinals so input on which would
work bet would be great, I like the clown gobies, and also the neon gobies. My
goal with regard to live stock is only aquacultured so I am leaning to the neon
goby unless you know of anywhere I can get a cultured clown goby.
<No such thing presently>
sand sifting gobies I also like. If there is a "best" way ( least likely to
fail) to set up a tank like this I would love to hear it.
Thanks again for you help with my various tanks.
Also, I am intending to go to MACNA again this year, went to the one in Pitt
last year, Bob, if I buy you a beer will you autograph my books?
(Conscientious and Reef inv with Calfo) :)
<Oh yes! Cheers, BobF>
Thinking of upgrading
01/11/2008
Dear fonts of knowledge,
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
I have been running my marine tank for about 3 years now. All in all, it is
quite healthy. I must say this is in part due to your website, so thank you.
<<Thank you>>
I have a 30 gallon tank with 1 big power head, 1 Fluval 4 filter, a red sea
Prizm protein skimmer on the back, 192 W of 50/50 CF lighting.
In the tank is a lot of live rock (to be honest, I bought it so long ago, I
forget how much. I think I followed the 1-1.5 lb / gallon rule), a bunch of
xenias, a leather coral, some star polyps and some candy cane coral, 2
clownfish, 1 yellow tang<<Will need a bigger home>> and a skunk cleaner shrimp.
There are also lots of red and blue hermits and lots of tiny snails (no idea
what kind, or really where they came from) and 3 bigger Astrea snails.
Everything is running along just tickety boo - nobody seems sick, chemical
levels are mostly good. My problem is that I have red slime algae.
<<Read up here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm>>
Not a lot of it, and it's not that hard to control, but it does mean that I have
to clean the tank with maybe higher frequency than I'd like. I usually do a 4
gallon water change about once a week. I also vacuum the substrate when I do
this.
<<If this is happening, then there is an apparent issue that needs resolving,
rather than controlling>>
I get the impression that this is perhaps more frequent than would be necessary
in a completely healthy tank. I would like to upgrade things, but I am not
really sure how to proceed. I would really like to keep the tank the way it is,
for now as I am somewhat constrained in space and not rich, but I am definitely
willing to spend some bucks on some kind of upgrade, as long as it will improve
the health of the system. What would be ideal, in my opinion, would be a 20
gallon sump underneath the main tank.
Unfortunately, the tank is not drilled for overflow. I can see you don't really
approve of the siphon driven overflow boxes, but I'm not really sure what my
other options are. I'm sorry this is a little bit rambly but I'd like to make
sure I get all the information across so I can get enough information to make a
good decision.
<<As a suggestion, I would spend the money on upsizing the display tank, as some
of the current stock is not suited to your tank size>>
My options, as I see them:
1. Replace the gravel I have with a deep sand bed. I worry that this conversion
process could be detrimental to the health of the tank while the changeover is
going on.
<<Done in small amounts, it will be fine, just keep an eye parameters>>
2. build a hang-on refugium with a built in protein skimmer and a deep sand bed.
The trick with this is that I'm not sure how much benefit the few extra gallons
and small sand bed would provide. on the plus side, it would be gravity feed
back into the tank, so there would be no chance of overflowing the tank or the
fuge onto the floor.
<<If I was doing that, I would just do it as a fuge, not with the skimmer>>
3. use a siphon box and put a sump under my tank with a DSB and protein skimmer
and so forth.
<<Sounds feasible, a far better option>>
4. set up a refugium next to my current tank. this is obviously undesirable from
a space perspective, but I could drill the new tank to avoid the flooding
problem.
5. I guess I could put everything into a temporary tank of some sort and get my
tank drilled. I have no idea what kind of stress this'd put on everyone, or how
much getting my tank drilled would cost. I suppose I could do it myself, even,
although I would be a little scared of that.
<<The best option out of the above, besides spending the money on upgrading the
display tank size, is to add a sump with a refugium and skimmer. Drilling tanks
are not hard and well documented with instructions on many forum sites. Drilling
many tanks personally, and all have been easy as long as the process of drilling
is done slowly and not forced>>
Anyway, I would like any feedback you have on this, including if there are
better options that I haven't even thought of. I think what I am going for best
nutrient export bang for my buck, where buck equals money and time and effort
and low chance of disaster.<<Sump tank/refugium>> I've scoured
your site, and the rest of the internet, and I think I've hit information
overload and am having trouble making a decision.
Thanks, Colin
<<Thank you for the questions, hope the above helps. A Nixon>>
DSB in Nano 01/10/2008
Hello Crew,
<<Hello, Andrew here>>
I've been in the marine hobby for about 4 years now and still hooked <<Aren't we
all>>. I have a question and a comment. Right now I have a 2.5 gallon tank on my
desk which has been running for about a month with just live rock. I am
upgrading to an 8 gallon bio cube with the intent of putting a single mushroom
polyp and 2 or 3 Zoanthid polyp and watching them grow<<Sounds great>>. To most
people that might seem like a waste of space and a tank but I've always been
fascinated with watching things grow and multiply. I test twice a week keeping a
record of all my result and I do a weekly 10% water change, with several micro
water changes during the week to keep the salinity stable. The same will apply
to the 8 gallon once its up and running. My question is this, I would like to
know if I should go with a bare bottom tank or have a deep sand bed (3" +). I
know that having a bare bottom will make cleaning very easy, but I have never
set up a tank with a DBS and I would like to try it so that I may further my
knowledge and experience with the hobby. If I do opt for a DBS, what are the
long term effects in a nano tank?
<<You could do a DSB of 3 inches, yes, however, I feel in a small aquarium as
this, a lot of space will be wasted. Benefits of a DSB is that you will have an
anaerobic area for denitrifying bacteria and provide nitrate removal. More info
can be found here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm >>
And now for my comment. I work at a local fish shop and I do my best to get
people started on the right foot by telling them before buying anything research
it. I usually hand a business card with your website written on the back of it.
I am still surprised and a little frustrated with the attitude towards
aquariums. It seems like people insist on stocking the tank as fast as they can.
Too many times I've seen customers walk in with tanks stocked past the limit
within the first 6 months of the set up. Then they come back after a year and
complain they have terrible algae problems or that all their fish are getting
sick. I can't stress enough the benefits of being patient. One more thing, I'm
really sick of people treating the fish as if it were an ornament to put in a
glass box. These are living creature with (to some extent) feelings and
personality. I don't understand why people insist on give the fish less than
adequate conditions. My biggest pet peeve is tangs in anything smaller than 100
gallons. All those poor hippo tangs that have died because of an ignorant
hobbyist putting it in a tank that is way too small. I hate that excuse "but its
small and I will switch it to another tank when it gets bigger" statement. That
fish will probably develop growth problems before you decide to invest in a
bigger tank. Would you keep your child in a 3'x3'x3' room, over feed it and
clean it once a month? will it be healthy? Think about it people!!! treat it as
if it was your own child and it will reward you. I promise.
<<I understand your concern, the vast majority feel the same. Let us hope this
type of fishkeep always stays, at most, in the minority of the hobby>>
Thank you for your time.
Pat
<<Thank you for the questions and comments, A Nixon>>
My New Saltwater Tank...
Set-up, sm. 12/28/07
Hi WWM crew
<Hello.>
I got a 29 gallon oceanic BioCube for Christmas. The first day I already had
live sand but my parents stored it kind of badly in the garage so the
bacteria probably got too cold and died off.
<It will come back.>
But the first day I had the salt water in there at 1.022-1.023 and the sand.
<I would raise to 1.025-1.026.>
The next day I went to the pet store and the guy who worked there is a marine
biologist and an expert at salt water tanks said if I get some live rocks I will
only need to let it sit for 2 days then I can get fish. I’m not sure why he said
this but I’m curious is this false or true?
<Wait.>
Because I’ve read that you need at least 4 weeks of cycling.
<Yes, fair estimate.>
Also when I put in my live rocks I realized I got some free creatures. A snail
climbed off and a worm like thing kept coming out of a hole and climbing around.
Also I noticed a lot of little clear insect looking things on the rock, is this
normal?
<Yes, all beneficial to your tank. It sounds like you have been researching
cycling and are on the right track. Do be sure to get the basic saltwater test
kits Alk, calcium, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. You will need the last three to
help you determine where you rock is in the curing (cycling) process. For more
information on what to look for curing your rock read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_2/cav2i3/Live_Rock/live_rock.htm
Have fun, Scott V.>
TINY saltwater tank? 12/28/07
Hello there.
<Hello Tori.>
I had a small five-gallon freshwater tank running for about a year that I was
quite fond of. I had a nice, mid-sized spiny eel who got to be very well
adjusted and happy, and three neon tetras. Unfortunately I left for a week and
left it in the care of my parents and halfway through the week the filter cut
out. This has happened before because I have sand in the bottom and the eel
kicks it up sometimes, but they couldn't get it working again and all of the
tetras died in only a day or two and the eel before I got home. :(
<Too bad>
I really want to get it up and running again. I don't think I’ll attempt another
spiny eel in this size aquarium.
<No>
I was a little unprepared when I got him and didn't realize such a small
aquarium would be so tricky with him.
My dad is suggesting that I make a small saltwater aquarium with just a couple
of live rocks, an anemone and a clownfish or two. Is this doable?
<Not really, the tank is much too small for an appropriate anemone.>
I’d really love to have a saltwater tank, but would it be smart to attempt one
this small? I imagine it would be quite unstable.
<There are those that keep marine tanks this small, but it is not for the
beginner. You nailed it on the head, just too instable.
If not, what would you suggest?
<Perhaps investing in a larger system, at least forty gallons or so if you want
to go saltwater. As far as your five gallon goes, a few Neons could do fine.
Perhaps a Betta, it will be a totally different fish in a five gallon than it is
in those little unsuitable bowls!>
Thanks so much! I love you guys!
Tori
<You’re welcome, thank you for the kind words, Scott V.>
Three Concerns... Nano/Sm.
SW... maint., set-up, circ. 12/20/07
Hello Crew,
<Parker>
Thanks for being such a reliable source. So I have a few concerns about the
direction my hobby is going. After reading many hours of internet, I haven't
really been able to pinpoint my problem. First, I have been trying a new route
and I started a 12 gallon eclipse 12. I have to contest that keeping a small
tank hasn't been very difficult or time consuming.
<Can be done>
To be able to be helped correctly, I had the standard bio-wheel and a small
powerhead. Around 15lbs of LR, a small bioload, and about 3? of substrate. Also
all good readings on my chemicals. Tank was in good shape.
<Need real... hard data... actual species, test results... or in turn this
becomes more of a guessing game>
In the past, I had a 29g tank but I have never tried to add a fuge to the tank.
I just put a 2.5g aquaquatics aquafuge2 hang on the back on my 12g. To be able
to sufficiently place the fuge, I had to remove my bio-wheel filter from the
system. In addition to adding the fuge, I added a HYDOR Koralia that pushes
around 400gph thus removing the old power head.
<... I do hope/trust the Koralia is not "turned up" all the way here>
I do not have any LS. I was wondering if by removing the filter from the system
can I have any additional problems keeping water quality excellent?
<Can you? Sure>
I really don't want to add a skimmer. I am hoping that the water flow will be
enough with the LR and fuge to keep water in good condition. My concern about
this is that my fuge has only been running for a couple days.
<Takes time...>
Secondly, by adding the Hydor and having the additional gph from the fuge pump,
will I have too much water circulation in the display tank?
<Could...>
That would be roughly 400gph from the powerhead and 360gph going to the fuge. If
not, should I place the overflow from the fuge and the powerhead on opposite
ends of the tank?
<I would not have this much actual water movement in a twelve gallon volume
system>
In essence, should I create a circular flow of water or should I place them
against each other creating a more irregular flow?
<Whatever prevents all from turning into a swirling vortex...>
Finally, I recently added a watchman goby and I had only crushed coral as a
substrate. To be able to help keep the goby happy and healthy, I added a small
layer of sugar fine sand on top of the crushed coral. After a couple weeks, most
of the sugar fine sand is still on top but another quarter has seeped into the
coral. I have good growth within the substrate and can see small worms and other
small creatures moving through the substrate. I was wondering if by adding the
two different types of grades together, will I eventually cause major imbalances
in the water quality?
<Not likely. I would leave as is>
Thanks guys for you time.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Three Concerns... Sm.
mar... set-up? 12/27/07
Bob,
<Parker>
To tell you more hard data, I have two clowns, tank raised I think, a watchman
goby, two feather dusters, a handful of assorted snails, and a hermit crab. I
have 0 nitrite, 0 nitrates, kept at 78 degrees, 1.025 SG, I perform regular
water changes on a weekly or bi-weekly schedule. I douse with Kent TechA and B
occasionally and douse occasionally with Kent Trace Elements. Occasionally being
during the water changes. I have a compact fluorescent 13w. I have about 3" of
substrate consisting of crushed coral and sugar fine sand. I have about 15lbs of
live rock arranged with some artificial rock.
I removed the Hydor and replaced it with a smaller power head to reduce turnover
rate. Not sure the actual size but more suitable for a small tank. I have good
growth in the fuge but a lot is brown algae but only in the overflow and intake
areas. Not sure where that is going or if it will turn into another type of
algae. Should I remove or scrape this alga or let it sit to help establish the
fuge.
<I would leave it be>
So back to my original concern, will the tank suffer from not having a power
filter and no skimmer?
<Mmm, possibly... if something were to go awry... might go that much faster
w/o... Like a dead animal, overfeeding...>
I feel that with a good established tank and a fuge that the water will still
stay good. Am I trying to make something work that wont?
<All sorts of redundancies can pay off... but you're likely fine as is>
Thanks again for the help.
Parker Aldredge
<BobF>
Nano Reef help! 12/19/07
Hello Crew!
<Hello>
First I just want to say what a great and helpful site you guys run. It's been a
big help to me in the past.
<Good to hear.>
However, I need to ask a few questions pertaining to Nano Reefs.
<Fire away.>
I am planning on purchasing a Nano Cube 24 gallon aquarium. I have heard that
these cubes are sufficient as far as filtration.
<Maybe, but I usually avoid built-in skimmers like the plague. Small tanks like
this are a lot of work.>
However, would any additional lighting be required to keep coral?
<Depends on the coral, probably ok for low and mid-level light needing corals,
but the small tank size is a big limiting factor.>
I would also like to add a pair of black Percula clowns and a bubble tip anemone
as a host. Will this setup have enough light to support the anemone, and will
the anemone harm any coral?
<The tank is too small for the anemone, and they should not be kept in a system
with corals, especially one this sized. The clowns will be more than fine
without it.>
Also: about how many fish would I be able to add?
<If it were my tank I would stick with just the pair of clowns.>
Would the 2 clowns, a blenny or goby, and a flame angel be too much of an
overload for the 24 gallon setup?
<Maybe ok with the right blenny or goby, but the angel needs a tank at least
twice as large as what you have. Three small fish is your max in my opinion.>
And finally, is there any additional equipment, livestock, or anything else at
all that you would recommend for starting a Nano Aquarium?
<For a new hobbyist I would seriously think about getting a larger tank, nanos
tank a lot of work and experience to run well. Might want to look into some of
the nano-skimmers now available, I believe both Aqua-C and CPR make nano
models.>
Just so you guys know, this isn't my first venture into saltwater aquaria.
<Good>
I have an established 40 gallon FOWLR tank that has been running for 6 months
now, so I have a bit of experience in the field.
<A nano may require all your experience and more, be prepared.>
Thanks in advance!
<Welcome>
<Chris>
Lagoon... small mar. set-up -
12/16/2007
Hi Crew,
I'm in the planning stage of building a 15 gal. lagoon tank with a 10 gal.
refugium. I'd like the 15 to have a sloping (probably fairly drastically) sand
bed to a deeper end as if falling off the atoll (or whatever), if you can
imagine with me. The deep end will have a 2 live sand substrate. It should
have at least 5 to 6 of water at low tide. The shallow end will have a short
beach, then slope through the mid-section of the tank. The slope will have mud
on top of aragonite.
<I highly doubt you will be able to do this in a 15g tank.>
I will attempt to facilitate a scheme to resemble tides by using a pair of
peristaltic pumps to move water very slowly over a 6 hour periods each way
between the display and the refugium. I need to work out the volumes and flow
rates.
Lighting will include a 150W incandescent pendant over the mangroves, a 36W PC
over the remainder (about ½) of the 15 and another 36W PC over the 10gal.
refugium. At least that's the way I see it right now.
<Mangroves, in a 15g? Seriously?!>
In my dream the display will ultimately house about half a dozen small fiddler
crabs, a couple of mangroves, and deeper, live rock, small hermit crabs and a
couple of peppermint shrimp. The beach area should be exposed during low tides
and then inundated at high tides.
<It's a nice idea, but you need a bigger tank for this.>
The refugium will house 2 live sand, live rock, and macro algae (yet to be
determined). I'd like this to be a filter less system. Do you think that's
possible, using the macroalgae for nutrient export not the mangroves, although
they may help to a small degree and the live sand/rock for a bio filter? I like
to make smaller (10%) water changes twice a week rather than, say, 25% once a
week. It seems to have been effective with my other tanks.
Should I build up the end that will be shallow and exposed tidally with
aragonite or should I build a form out of concrete?? and then top the form with
live sand and/or mud?
<I would consider the later. But again, you need a much bigger/longer tank.>
I'm concerned about the system going anaerobic with a sand bed that may reach 7
or 8 deep in some places.
<"Going anaerobic?" Why is this a bad thing? And just FYI, sand bed can have
anaerobic zones even more shallow than 7in.>
BTW, you guys and gals are fantastic!! You are beyond being an asset to this
hobby. IMHO, you're a necessity.
<Well, thank you!>
Thank you all so very much for you efforts,
Mike
<De nada,
Sara M.>
Pistol shrimp/goby nano tank
set up 12/11/07
Hello Crew,
I'm still reading and researching, but am in the process of setting up an 8
gallon nano for the purpose of keeping one of the shrimp/goby combos available
from my LFS. The tank will have a refugium made from an AC 70 (with LR rubble
and Chaeto), and about 8-10 lbs of live rock.
Lighting will be CF (2x18w) with about an inch of sand and LR rubble in the
display.
<I'd increase this by at least double... to allow tunneling>
I expect the AC 70 to flow around 150-200 gph as modified.
The footprint of the tank is 9"x 15," and I plan on keeping a simple mix of
either mushrooms, zoos (not sure of spelling), or just utilizing green star
polyps with a few accents.
Am I on the right track?
Thanks,
Stan
<Pretty close. BobF>
Nano LR Quantity 12/6/07
Hi to anybody who might do me the favor of answering this lines...
<Hello David.>
I've read through your web site and some others, and everywhere I find I should
stick as a guideline with 1-2 pounds of LR per gallon of water volume.
<General guiline.>
I’m setting up a custom 17 gal with a 10 gal sump.
I got 4 big pieces of LR at my LFS weighting 9 pounds total... I didn’t get more
pieces because it just seemed too much for my little display, and indeed, when I
got home and did the aquascaping it seemed to me it there was just the right
open space left for the fish to swim and aesthetically. Of course I could stack
some more rocks but I think it would look too rock-crowded in there.
Not even being one pound of rock per gallon, my concern is if this amount will
be able to keep up with the biological filtration.
<Should be if you stock this sized tank appropriately.>
I'm using a Remora Pro with a Mag3 on this system.
<Nice skimmer.>
Thanks on regard...
David (from Mexico... woo hoo!)
<This is a fair amount, especially if you plan to add corals to this tank. They
usually come on some amount of rock and quickly add to your total LR volume,
especially in a tank this size. Good luck, Scott V.>
|
Finnex FI-MTG-2402
11/12/07
Bob,
<Greg>
Been awhile since I have been on the website and even longer since I have last
maintained a tank but want to get back in. I am looking at the Finnex
(FI-MTG-2402) 30 gallon aquarium and wanted to know if you are familiar with the
product.
<Am not... have seen on the Net:
http://www.fishtankshop.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=10120>
I found a review that was talking about the plastic mount for the lights but
have not found the same review since. According to the review, the mounts don't
do the job. For $350, it has everything that one could want to get back in the
hobby but if the mounts don't do the job it is
a lot of money to spend.
<The mounts are easy to modify, amend... Looks like an okay unit... though, with
a bit of study, effort otherwise, you could put together a bit larger, more
functional set-up. Bob Fenner>
Any advice would be great.
Thanks
Greg Re: Finnex
FI-MTG-2402 11/13/07
Bob,
<Greg>
Thanks for the advice. What are you referring to in terms of a better
unit?
Piece everything together individually?
<Bingo>
I am coming from a 90 gallon setup and really wanted to look at a Nano
set up. Is 30 too large for a Nano set up?
<Nope. RMF>
Greg |
|
Nano logistics question... adding a sump
– 08/17/07
Greetings Crew, I hope all is well with you today. First, a great big thanks
for what must be a tremendous amount of work y'all put into this site daily.
It's appreciated more than can be expressed.
<Welcome>
Here's my question. I have a JBJ 12 gallon nano set up in my office.
It's been up and running for about 6 months now, and is doing pretty well. It's
got about 1/2 inch of sand, about 10# of live rock, one true percula clown, two
turbo snails, one peppermint shrimp, one blue legged hermit and an unknown
number of Stomatella snails (they hitchhiked in on some rock I was keeping in
the sump of my 120 at home). Corals consist of a few varieties of zoanthids, a
couple of Ricordea and a branching frogspawn with about 6 heads. Circulation is
provided by the stock pump (a Maxi Jet 600 I think). The only problem thus far
has been some film algae on the glass. Everything appears to be thriving. I've
been changing 5 gallons of water a week, and all my tests have been looking
good. Zero ammonia and nitrite, nitrates <5, calcium is usually around 400,
alkalinity "normal" (I need a better test kit for this), and phosphates hover
between .5 and .25. While things are going well, I can't help but think things
could always be a little better. Here's what I've been contemplating and need
your guidance with. The rear section of the JBJ tank (where the "filtration
chambers" are) is plastic. I would like to drill it and install 2 1/2" bulkheads
<Make this a one inch for drain and whatever the pump diameter is for return>
(in the back, not the bottom). Below my desk, I'd like to set up a 10 gallon
tank to use as a sump/refugium. I'd like to go even larger, but this is all
space will allow until I get promoted :-). I'd like it to house about 6" of
sand, some macro algae, and maybe a hang on skimmer (a Remora maybe?). Here's
where the logistics come in. The rear compartment is made up of three chambers.
Should the bulkheads be in the same compartment? If so which one?
<The "intake one" in the first filter chamber, the return in the last>
I'm not planning on using the return for circulation, so I don't need to plumb
it through to the display portion of the tank. If I drill the holes maybe a
couple of inches below the water level, will it work to just hook vinyl tubing
to the bulkheads and have the drain work properly?
<Yes, should... if the flow-rate is not too great>
Is this even possible? Would there be any real benefit?
<Yes, yes>
Would the tank evaporation show up as a lower level in the sump, or still in the
3rd chamber of the rear of the tank where it does now?
<In the former>
Any guidance, input or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Eagerly awaiting your reply,
Pearson
<An interesting project for sure! Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Nano logistics question -
8/17/07
Thank you, Mr. Fenner, for your prompt reply and input. I'm a bit
confused as to how this would work as you have described. I have
attached a drawing (please excuse it's crude nature) of the current
setup with the proposed locations of the bulkheads as I understand them.
<I see this graphic>
Since they are located in separate compartments, will there still be
enough water going from the weir to the circulation pump?
<Mmm, yes... if there is sufficient water in the system total... and
once again, IF the pump/return isn't too great... that is you'll want to
match/engineer the pump flow rate or control with a valve to not pump
too much more than the drain, plumbing on the drain side of the system
can accommodate... and make sure the sump is "topped off" to not too
low, not too high... Does this make sense? It is possible in the
configuration presented to overpower the drain line... drain the sump
too low... and likewise, there is a danger of flooding should it the
system/sump be too full and the power/pump fail>
Is there the possibility of overflowing the sump, due to the fact there
is no way to match the gravity drain into the sump with the return pump
rate?
<Mmm, there are ways... again... start all off full with the circulating
pump turned off... turn it on and mark the lowest point the water is
drawn down... with a glass marker... DO NOT fill the sump past this
point with the pump turned on>
Please forgive me if these questions sound ridiculous. I'm usually very
good at visualizing things like this and reasoning them out, but I'm
having some trouble with this one. Thank you again for any further
clarity you can provide/allaying my apprehension. I'll be happy to let
you and the crew know how it works once I get it underway.
Thanks again,
Pearson
<Glad to co-conspire with you... Again, please read on WWM re
drain/bulkhead size and placement. BobF> |
|
 |
Best Nano Tank? 7/29/07
Red Sea Max
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RED-ARE40110&Category_Code=Aquariums
Cadlights http://www.cadlights.com/product_info.php?products_id=116
M-Tank
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FI-MTG-2402Q2&Category_Code=Aquariums
JBJ Nano Cube http://jbjlighting.com/prod_28g_nano.html
Oceanic Bio Cube http://nanofishstore.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=1911
Aquapod http://nanofishstore.com/product_detail.asp?PartNumber=CUR-AP-7055
Would like some kind of rating, opinions, recommendations on which nano-tank is
the best, or if it's something not on this list. If money were no object and you
simply wanted the best one out of the bunch, which would it be, I think alot
<... no such word>
of people would be interested in the answer thx Nick
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm
Scroll down to Small Marine Systems... Bob Fenner>
Re: Best Nano Tank? 7/30/07
followed your suggestion,
<...>
didn't really see an answer to my question. Which >system is the best, if only
technology wise out of these all-in-one aquariums?
<None of the above. Better by far for you to read/study... make your own... with
an over-sized refugium, skimmer, better lighting... Please... don't waste your
time, money, resources in general. Study, then purchase. BobF>
Nano lagoon project... 6/30/07
Hi Mr. Fenner,
<Dominique>
Hope you're having a great summer. My 2 years old 90 gal reef is doing great (me
too, am on vacation...) and I would like to start a minimalistic nano tank as an
aside.
<Ahh!>
The concept would be a micro lagoon: 20 x 10 x 6 inches high = 5 gal, 5mm sugar
fine sand bed, 2 live rocks. The tip of one LR would be emersed with a very
small red mangrove on it.
<Don't stay tiny...>
The only pieces of equipment would be a micro powerhead (5-6x/hour turnover), a
small 7,5W heater (a pad placed under the sand), and a normal living room spot
lamp with an incandescent 50W full spectrum plant growing spot bulb. I would do
weekly water changes (as I do with my 90 gal).
Planned livestock: macro-algae (Ochtodes/blue ball + red Gracilaria), one red
mangrove, a white pompom xenia frag, small mushroom corals, green star polyps, 1
pompom crab (L. tesselata), 1 blue stripe pipefish (Doryrhamphus excisus).
<Mmmm, really needs much more room... won't feel comfortable in these
confines... Have you seen this fish, this genus... in the wild... Moves back
from divers approaching...>
Does-it make any sense? Could you please give me some advices/inputs?
<Start slow... the simpler life first... Develop and adhere to your maintenance
routine religiously>
I have been searching on the net and in my books but still one doesn't find as
much about a lagoon concept and what would be its more typical fauna (Anthozoans
and others) as for a reef and it's such a tiny set-up...
A few questions:
-Too small for a single 7cm pipefish?
<Yes, IMO; behaviorally>
-Is there any chance this lighting would be fine for the mangrove?
<Yes>
-Would a Fiddler crab or a Red Claw crab fit in there (adaptable to full
salinity 1.025, danger for tankmates, escaping from open tank even if rocks are
not touching tank walls...?)
<Yes>
-Or a Sally Lightfoot?
<Mmm, no... too predaceous, large, skittish>
-Is it healthy for the system to use under the sand heating in such a set-up?
<Yes... very worthwhile>
Sorry to send you such a long mail for a so tiny plan...
Many thanks!
Dominique
<Enjoy your holiday... Life! Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Nano Tank Critique - 6/25/07
Hello-
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Thank you for providing all the help and (seemingly) endless supply of knowledge
in regard to saltwater aquariums. I read about 1-2 hours (or more) per night of
your site, and feel l will never be able to read everything. This is truly an
addictive, and enjoyable hobby.
<I agree on both points!>
My tank is as follows:
-20gal high nano tank
-Aquaclear 30 filter
-standard florescent lighting
-Fission Nano Skimmer
-Maxi Jet 600 powerhead
-1inch very fine (sugar) grade sand bed
-about 7 lbs live rock with a ton of surface area (all small pieces) and also
ornamental rock. I plan on adding about 1 lb live rock per week until I hit
about 15 lbs
-ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, all zero
-ph is 8.3
-SG is 1.025
<Sounds good so far!>
For fish - I have 2 small (1 inch) false Percula Clowns
1 Bicolor Blenny (2 inches)
1 Firefish (2 inches)
-all are doing well and eating well.
<Good to hear...>
I also have a Scarlet Hermit Crab and 2 snails (about 1/2 in shells, +/-)The
only live animals I plan on adding are some more inverts - more for the
'workload' than appearance (any suggestions??) and about 6 months or so down
the line, a small, hardy anemone.
<Oh...Well- I have to give my two cents on the anemone. Really, I'd avoid an
anemone in any small system. My rational is twofold: First, water quality and
environmental stability are so important to anemones, and the challenges of
keeping such stability in a small volume of water are many. Second, you really
need high intensity lighting (ie; metal halides) for overall anemone health, and
such lighting can potentially overheat a small system.>
Questions:
Is there anything about the setup that is jumping out at you saying "what are
you thinking?!"
<The anemone is the only thing that really stands out as a potential problem.>
-Is the bioload too much for this system?
<No, but I would not add any more fishes.>
-how do you feel about dry foods such as plankton/krill/etc. I normally feed
frozen.
<I'm a big fan of frozen foods myself. I rarely, if ever feed dry foods. Nothing
bad about most dried foods-I just like the "control" I get from thawing,
cleaning and feeding frozen foods.>
-My skimmer has only been up and running for about 12 hours... How long should
it take to start collecting the skimmate (I have been reading, but there's not a
whole lot about Fission skimmers on the site)... That I could find.
<Give it a day or so. If you're not getting skimmate, further adjustment may be
necessary to get production.>
Thank you very much for the help!
Eric
<My pleasure, Eric. Sounds like you're on the right track! Good luck! Regards,
Scott F.>
Old Tank-New Set-up, Sm. SW
6/20/07
I am semi new to salt water set-ups. I recently set up a 24g AquaPod, which
is blooming now. I recently received a old salt tank from a friend (fish,
"live-rock", and bio-wheel included). The previous owner was just able to make
water changes. When I received the tank it was completely covered in hairy brown
algae, including the live rock. The tank is somewhere between 15-20 gallons. I
want to re-do the tank completely. I live in Korea, and quality equipment is
hard to come by.
<Can it be mail-ordered? Sent by etailers in other countries? I take it this IS
S. Korea... a very "first nation">
The tank lighting is set-up for a basic FW tank. The tank is also about 18'
long, 15"deep, and 15" wide. I was planning on upgrading the lighting to
Coralife 150w 20,000k HQI Metal Halide Pendant. Is that over-kill?
<Is not overkill, but you will need to pay attention to potential/real heat
effects... temp. swings, increased evaporation/top offs...>
I plan on having coral with the 4-fish set up. I added a Korean protein skimmer
with a 300 gph pump. Produces some foam not much, only till I can get a better
set-up. Should I get rid of the bio-wheel and go with a box canister?
<Maybe in time...>
The only thing I am worried with is the flow rate for the corals with a
bio-wheel. I plan on changing the substrate out to sand( its a crush coral/rock
mix). Removing the "live-rock". Am I on the right track?
<One of them>
What filtration would be suited for a tank of this size and limited space?
Thanks for your help. You have an amazing site! John U.S. Army-Korea
<Best to have you read re sumps, refugiums... Many nice alternatives here...
Please start at the top:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
Bob Fenner> Re: Old Tank-New
Set-up, Sm. SW 6/21/07
Thanks for your reply. I have one more question for you. After reading more
on your site I picked and purchased a skimmer for my re-do tank. I got the AQUAC
REMORA WITH MJ1200. I also purchased the AQUALIGHT ADVANCED TANK-MOUNT - 1X150W
20000K HQI. I got a MJ400 for the HYDOR BIOFLO SMALL AEROBIC FILTER for good
flow inside the tank. My question for you is: With the current old set-up
(bio-wheel and cheap protein skimmer knock-off Korean version, hardly any foam
build up), would it be better to start with new LR and sand after I get the new
items or can I start cycling the LR with the current set-up, and then switch the
equipment.
<This latter>
Also is the skimmer going to be enough filtration for the tank (10-15g), along
with the LR and filter on the BIOFLO. Thanks again! You guys are amazing.
<We'll see... depends on the type of livestock, foods/feeding, maint.... Bob
Fenner>
Opinion of the Red Sea Max Reef System,
Sm. SW maint. 6/13/07
Crew:
<Sarah>
I am totally new to the saltwater world, but had successful freshwater systems
in the past. I wanted to know your opinion(s) of the Red Sea Max "Plug and Play"
Reef System for beginners. Knowing that you are all likely (and deservedly) to
be purists, please remember that the key word is beginners.
<Understood... and for browsers, here's a fave desc. of this system:
http://www.norbreck-aquatics.co.uk/max.shtml
Appears to be a good, serviceable unit all the way around>
I purchased a Max a month ago, and have, so far, knock on wood and saltwater,
had a wonderful experience with it. I am interested to know if I am in the
minority, majority, or all alone, in this opinion. My 34 gal aquarium cycled
quickly (with 3-4" substrate and 30 lbs live rock) and I now have (and do not
see any reason to add more any time soon) 3 fish (royal Gramma, pygmy angel,
maroon clown),
<This last will likely prove to be trouble in time in this small volume...
incompatibly territorial>
5 corals (2 polyps, a xenia, a torch and flowerpot),
<And these... should be investigated on WWM... the last will likely perish
soon... perhaps causing trouble for your other livestock>
a fire shrimp (who just shed - freaked me out - I found the molted shell and
thought he'd died! - he's fine, just taking a little time to come out from his
rock cave as he's probably still a bit soft), a brittle star, buncha hermits,
buncha snails. I just intro'd a gorgeous BTA 2 days ago,
<... misplaced here. I would NOT mix an anemone with Stony Corals in such a new,
small volume...>
as I had a very unhappy little maroon clown, and the two were inseparable within
10 minutes. The BTA had settled in to a lovely rocky crevasse within 2 hours.
<... Do keep your eye on this...>
The ease and simplicity of this system has quickly addicted me to the saltwater
world - watching my aquarium is now my favorite form of procrastination.
Is this a good thing?... I think so.
<I agree... though I do wish there was a requisite, concomitant "education" that
went with such purchases (dream on... I live in this world...)... As it is too
easy to "get into trouble" even with the most complete, simple set-ups in our
interest. Here you have some real stocking issues...>
Are there any things to watch for to tip me off that something is not right?
<Mmm, yes. The best/foremost, your keen observation... Coupled with useful
knowledge (again, please do read re the Systems, Compatibility... of the life
you list... AND any that you intend to add going forward... AHEAD of its/their
acquisition...>
Am I just freakishly lucky (reading some of your articles about WWMers who beat
their heads on their tanks for 2 years to get a BTA to settle in, etc.),
or is the Max the reason all has gone well?
<Does appear to be a relatively complete, well-thought out product... And you
are to be given credit (along with your stockist/LFS for careful screening of
specimens, passion-enough to investigate, take care...>
I'm glad to have found your site, and look forward in the future to success
through research, rather than success through luck!
Sarah
<I too am hopeful for this... Keep a keen eye on your livestock... water quality
testing... and regular maintenance/water changes... and we'll be chatting. Bob
Fenner>
First Saltwater Tank 5/25/07
Hi! <Hello> I have just recently set up my first saltwater tank. I've had
freshwater for years but never before have I ventured into salt. <Its
fun.> I've got a 40g Long tank, no live rock as of yet, no skimmer, Penguin
Bio-Wheel Filter, salinity is 1.023, PH of 8.4, Ammonia and Nitrites are 0,
Nitrate is 20. <If you are going to add live rock (which I highly recommend), do
it soon, because it will cause havoc with your water parameters at first,
causing another cycle. Also, get a skimmer too, much better than a bio-wheel
filter for marine applications.> I feed New Life Spectrum pellet foods
exclusively to my freshwater fish and after a discussion with Pablo (the
developer of NLS) I intend to try my salties on the same diet. <Good stuff.> I
plan to use Thera-A in the .35mm and 1mm sizes. I also will use the NLS Stable
Wafers, primarily for my Lawnmower Blenny since algae is in rather short supply
as yet. <Another reason to get the LR soon.> My question is regarding
compatibility. I've got a list of fish/inverts decided on but I'd like to
double check that they'll be compatible before leaping in with two feet. The
tank currently has the following:
1- Lawnmower Blenny
2- Yellow and Gold Chromis
I plan on adding the following fish/inverts eventually if they'll be
compatible..
1- Flame Angel <Would skip, the tank is a little small for it and with the other
livestock your probably pushing it a little too much.>
1- Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1- Neon Goby
2- Banggai Cardinalfish (I plan to acquire a small group of these, allow them to
pair and then return all but one pair. ) and possibly 1- Tiger Dragon Goby
Thanks for your time!
-Heather
<Seems ok, but with a little study you can tell the difference between male and
female cardinals, so you won't need to go through all the extra
purchasing. Don't forget to QT everything.>
<Chris>
How to Set-Up a REALLY small nano-reef 5/7/07
Good morning Crew,
<Hello there Sara, I have commented on parts of your query but the link
below will provide you with most of your answers.>
First of all I would like to say that you guys (and
gals) are the Best of the Best.
<Why thanks!>
Anyway I have been keeping Freshwater tanks most of my life and
currently have 4 tanks up and running and fully stocked.
<You are officially addicted.>
I have been thinking about starting my first Saltwater Reef tank because
of the vibrant life and color that Freshwater does not offer.
<Better hide from those cichlid keepers!>
I would like to have some Soft Coral, maybe a fish or two, and would
like to keep it small (real small like a 5.5 gallon or something
similar)
<That is really small...a bit too small for even some veteran aquarists
let alone a novice.>
since I have limited space in my fish room.
<That I do undertstand.>
I thought I would ask a few questions before setting off on this
journey and getting to lost.
<Okay.>
I have read that small Saltwater tanks are hard to maintain
<An understatement; yes...>
but I don't mind a challenge. I was wondering what kind of equipment you
would recommend for a 5.5 gallon Reef.
<Hmmm, a small hang on power filter, mostly for water movement and to
have a way of running carbon. In all honesty the filter in this tank
would be you; and by that I mean bi-weekly water changes at the least.>
As far as the lighting goes - what wattage bulb should I use?
<A small powercompact fixture would probably be your only option here,
that or incandescent lighting due to the small size of the tank.>
How bright should I go - 10K - 12K or higher?
<!0k is fine.>
What kind of filtration would be best? Can I use a Bio-Wheel and what
should the turnover rate be?
<Well I would use live-rock for biofiltration not bio-media, and I would
want a turnover rate of at least 10X per hour.>
Stocking is another issue. I know I cant have to many fish or anything
to big.
<Right, in all honesty this nano would be best off without fish.>
What kind of fish would you consider keeping to start or cycle the tank?
<Well read up on WWM re: establishing bio-filtration in marine aquaria.
DO NOT use live animals in this process. Again I would prefer you not go
with a set-up of this size and if you do I wouldn't like to see any fish
in it. However is you MUST, a single clown goby or neon goby and even
that is pushing it.>
Once it is cycled or when I think I can handle it what would you suggest
to keep an eye out for?
<See the link below.>
To make it short and sweet - how would you Set-Up and Stock a Nano
Reef???
<Hmmm actually I have an article on this subject; read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm .> Thanks for your
time and keep up the good work.
<Thanks.>
Sara N.
Plumbing Return Line and Drain Line for Nano System – 5/4/07
Hello Crew!
<Mike.>
I hope this email finds you well.
<It does, thanks.>
I have a plumbing/planning question for you and your expertise.
<Lets here it...>
I have a 20gal glass aquarium (tall).
<Neat looking but difficult to aquascape.>
My original plan was to run one 1” drain from the back of the tank to a
10gal sump, through a MAG 7, and back to my tank. (1” plumbing
throughout.) With a 3’ head, this should put me at about 400gph…right
at my 20x target turnover rate.
<Yes, however...while I do encourage aquarists to have ample amounts of
water flow, I do not recommend pushing this much water through the sump;
especially if you have a skimmer or refugium there. I usually aim for
only a 7 to 10X turnover rate in the sump. For additional water flow to
get you to that 20X plus goal, I sally supplement with closed loop
manifolds.>
I then find out that a single 1” drain to the sump will neither handle
400gph,
<1" drains can handle up to 600gph at maximum but that's with no
restrictions whatsoever.>
nor is it a good idea to use a single drain.
<Yes, well it's nice to have security...I'll put it that way.>
Okay, I’ve not sent the tank to be drilled yet so I will go ahead and
put another 1” drain for safety/assurance that my tank will handle all
that flow.
<Okay.>
Today, what arrives at my doorstep?
<Hopefully not a child...>
Surprise! a MAG 9.5 Going back and doing some math, it seems that a MAG
9.5 will crank out almost 800gph @ a 3’ head. Ouch.
<To much flow through the sump you plan on using, could use this pump in
a closed loop though, with multiple outlets.>
Now I’m curious if two 1” drains will handle all that flow.
<Should be able to...but again I don't recommend all that flow through
this size sump.>
I’m also envisioning my poor tank inhabitants living in a dusty
substrate storm because of a constant blast from the returns.
<Well bear-bottom is an option, or very shallow coarse media.>
So, would drilling yet another 1” hole in the back (3 total) compromise
structural integrity and is a 40x turnover rate really desirable/sane?
<Yes but not in the arrangement you have.>
Does it constitute more drilling/upsizing plumbing?
I’m thinking about using the ball-valve in the return line to simply
throttle the pump down. Though, I’ve heard mixed reviews as to if this
is acceptable in regards to pump life/cost effectiveness.
<Yes, could put to much back-pressure on the pump..
I thought it was my lucky day when that 9.5 arrived by mistake… now I’m
not so sure. :(
<Like I said I think you can find a place for it but not as a return
pump on this size set-up. Search WWM Re: Anthony Calfo (Closed Loop
System).>
I appreciate any and all advice. Thank you!
<Welcome.>
Mike.
<Adam J.>
35 Gallon Reef, Equipment Choices 4/26/07
Hello from Australia,
<Hi.>
I am in the process of setting up a small 24"x18"x21" reef tank.
<Neat.>
It will hold approx: 35 US gallons which converts to about 125 litres. I will
only be putting in 2 x percula clowns, 1 blue damsel and maybe a goby for algae
control.
<Sounds modest, this is good for a smaller tank.>
Live rock will be added and if everything is fine a few months down the track I
might go for a few very basic corals. I have purchased a 3 x 24w tube T5 light,
a vortex style protein skimmer suitable up to 180 gallon tank, 2 x 400 litre/p/h
power heads and a 500litre/h hang on filter for any floating detritus. Would you
recommend the use of a UV sterilizer ?
<There are pros/cons to using them. (posted on WWM) However I personally think
it would be a bit much on an aquarium of this size.>
Do you see any problems with the equipment chosen??
<No.>
Any advise would be appreciated. I seem to get mixed feed back here in Oz. My
major problem will be heat in Summer. My current tropical tanks can reach up to
32 Celsius.
<Do see WWM regarding temperature control as well, usually a few temperature
controlled fans can do the trick in a tank of this size.>
Thanks
Randall
<Adam J.>
Preparations for Semi-nano Reef; FOWLR to Reef 4/17/04
Hello WWM,
<Hi.>
I was planning on turning my FOWLR 36 gallon tank, into a reef aquarium.
<Beware of the dark-side young Skywalker...>
I do not plan on infesting the tank with corals,
<Infesting...interesting way to word it.>
but with maybe about 5 different ones, however, I need to make sure I can
provide conditions that are suitable for each one.
<Right.>
The tank set up is like this
45 pounds of live rock
---SEIO 620 power head
---Bak Pak 2R protein Skimmer
---Flame Angelfish
<I wouldn't go with a Centropyge in this size tank long-term.>
---Citrinus Clown Goby
---Established for 4.5 months. I was planning on adding another fish, such as a
firefish, but wasn't sure whether to add one or not since I am close to fully
stocked, and my tank will become reef.
<If you drop the angel it would be a good addition.>
I need suggestions on lighting for the specific corals I would look to keep,
these would Include, Ricordea Mushrooms, Brain Coral, Zooanthids, Polyp corals,
Sun Coral, and some other possible soft corals. I was thinking of one of these
lighting fixtures
_http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3796&N=2004+113174_
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3796&N=2004+113174) . I
do not know whether to get the 36, or 24 inch fixture since my tank is 30"
in length. Could this work, or do you have a better suggestion?'
<I only got the second link to work for me, which directed me to a VHO fixture.
This could surely work, and I would much prefer it over a PC fixture. Having
said that, have you looked into T-5 HO fixtures? If not, I would encourage
reading up on them.>
I was looking for 4-5 watt fixture without lunar lights.
What bulbs should I use, an actinic and which bulb?
<If your going to have one of the bulb be actinic (20,000k range) the other
needs to be 6,500k to 10,000k range.>
Also, I have one power head the SEIO 620, which is pretty strong, but I
was considering adding another to increase flow and remove dead spots.
<Yes, more flow wouldn't hurt.>
I can normally keep my nitrates below 10, and can be lowered more with an extra
water change a month and added macro algaes.
<True, and by reducing your livestock load.>
My calcium is maintained at 400+ all the time.
Do you have any suggestions I should do before I convert to reef?
<I'll put it this way, you can't be to patient and you can't research and read
to much.>
P. S, - I do ask a lot of questions, do I form a problem?
<Not yet my friend.>
Thanks again,
Joe
<Adam J.>
Quick question ... Nano re-do 2/22/07
Hi guys! I have a 16 gallon bowfront tank. For the past five years, I have
had a Skilter, regular CoraLife bulbs, live sand, and two pieces of live
rock. I kept a small, regal tang
<Way too little room for this species>
and a false clown. Several months ago, the tang attacked the clown - he died a
few days later. The tang lived on for another year (total of 5 yrs).
<Bonsaied>
Now that I do not have any livestock - I'd like to do things right. I emptied
the live sand and went with just a clear bottom. The one piece of rock is
browning ... I am assuming it is dying off. The other piece has a bit of
coralline algae on it. My questions:
I'd like to get something other than the Skilter ... is the Aqua C Nano Remora
the way to go for protein skimming?
<Much better, yes>
I'd like to do something with the lighting to increase the growth of the
rock/future inverts ... is the USA 24" 2x65W Power Compact Orbit Fixture
overkill for my tank?
<Is not... a very nice unit>
I don't want to overdo it ... but I want something good.
Last of all - do I get rid of the dying rock ... or hope that I can save what is
left of it?
<I would save it... can either "re-grow", or be of use as base rock, substrate
with a bit of new placed near-by>
Thank you so much ...
Liz
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Marine Set-Up 2/20/07
Hello Bob :-)
<James for Bob today.>
I love your book, and articles on Salt Water aquarium & fish!
<Bob thanks you for this.>
I have a quick question I hope you can give me your incite on. I'm thinking
of starting a "Fish Only" 20 gallon saltwater tank with a few clown fish.
Kind of a starter into the world of marine fish keeping. How do you all feel
about this? Would this equipment work well in this 20 gallon tank:
Twin-Tube Fluorescent Strip Light 30", Stealth UL Heater 100 Watt, Rena
FilStar XP1 Canister Filter,
<A nice filter, easy to maintain.>
CoraLife super skimmer, Instant Ocean Hydrometer, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals
Saltwater Liquid Master Test Kit,
<I like Aquarium Systems and Salifert kits myself.>
Oceanic (TM) Natural Sea Salt Mix?
<Instant Ocean is my choice of salt.>
I was going to do a brackish tank with mangroves & a mudskipper (I have the
tank setup with crushed coral as a substrate & mangroves now, but can
eliminate them easily), but I don't know if I will ever be able to purchase
a mudskipper around here, the pet store people tell me it could be months,
or maybe never. Well I have always wanted to have a few tank raised clown
fish, so I was wondering what I have setup is alright, and what else I need
to be successful as a beginner with saltwater fish.
<Tom, a good place to start would be sending you to this link. Do read
linked files above also. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm
This should answer most, if not all of your start-up questions.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Marine Set-Up 2/20/07
Hello Bob :-) A Quick Question On A 20 Gallon Setup
Hello Bob :-)
<Tom>
I love your book, and articles on Salt Water aquarium & fish! I have a quick
question I hope you can give me your incite
<Heee! Insight>
on. I'm thinking of starting a "Fish Only" 20 gallon saltwater tank with a
few clown fish.
<Two>
Kind of a starter into the world of marine fish keeping. How do you all feel
about this?
<Can be done... tank-bred...>
Would this equipment work well in this 20 gallon tank:
Twin-Tube Fluorescent Strip Light 30", Stealth UL Heater 100 Watt, Rena
FilStar xP1 Canister Filter, CoraLife super skimmer, Instant Ocean
Hydrometer, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Saltwater Liquid Master Test Kit,
Oceanic (TM) Natural Sea Salt Mix?
<Yes>
I was going to do a brackish tank with mangroves & a mudskipper (I have the
tank setup with crushed coral as a substrate & mangroves now, but can
eliminate them easily), but I don't know if I will ever be able to purchase
a mudskipper around here,
<Maybe mail-order... etailers>
the pet store people tell me it could be months, or maybe never. Well I have
always wanted to have a few tank raised clown fish, so I was wondering what
I have setup is alright, and what else I need to be successful as a beginner
with saltwater fish. Thanks.
<I say... you go Tom! Bob Fenner>
Is this temperature ok? (Bob F., if available). & Nano stkg... 2/16/07
Hi,
Great site as usual!
I am setting up an Oceanic Bio Cube 14, as a nano reef. I had a company
by the name of nano-tuners.com
<Neat name>
do a mod to my hood that increased the
lighting from 48 watts to 72 watts of PC lighting. I am running 1- 10k
bulb, one
actinic, and one 50/50) As expected with a light increase, there was a heat
increase. I have freshwater in there now, and am testing all of my
equipment. I
am getting temps in the 80- 83 degree range consistently with out the use
of a
heater.
<Mmm, temp. and range will likely be okay... I would use/place a/the
heater... just set at the lower temp.>
I will employ the use of a 50 watt heater when I get it set up, but
will these temperatures be ok for the following?
15 Lbs of Live Rock
<From tropical clime, yes>
3 Lbs of rubble as a bio filter
20 Lbs of Live Sand
<Ditto>
212 model zoo-med power sweep power head + stock pump, yielding a turn over
of 20x
2 True Percula clowns (a pair if I can manage it)
<Start with just two small tank-bred ones... they'll become a pair in time>
1 Fire fish
<Mmm... really needs two square feet of space per individual, and most
species available are best kept in pairs... Highly stressed otherwise>
Various softies (xenia, mushrooms, Ricordea, etc)
<A Pacific Ricordea species would be better than a Floridian>
Some hard corals
Other various frags
An anemone (Bubble tip??)
<Mmmm... this tank is really too small>
A clam (can you recommend a specific species?)
<Ditto>
2 cleaner shrimp (Am I better off with a mated pair of golden coral banded
shrimp, or two skunks?)
<Better with Peppermints... again... this volume is too small>
2-4 hermits (2 blue, 2 scarlet)
5-10 snails (Suggestions?)
<I'd avoid here>
Top off every other day with pure R/O water
10% w/c once a week
<Make that twenty>
I will be exclusively using Nutri sea water for this setup.
Filter floss cleaned at every top off under tap, and squeezed dry.
Chemical filtration: Pura pad.
Does this set up look good to you? Any other recommendations are gladly
welcomed.
Thanks,
Anthony
<Appears you've been doing your "homework"... again, go slow... small
colonies of those Cnidarians... Bob Fenner>
New Tank 2/12/07 , SW, anem. sel./sys., subst.,
First and foremost let me start off by saying your online resource is
enjoyable to read and I appreciate the time you all put into answering
questions. <Thanks>
Now I have a 29 gal tank with an Emperor 400 with Bio-Wheels, a 3 inch
crushed coral substrate, a maxi-jet 900 and 17 pounds of various types of
live rock. <No skimmer?> My tank has only been running for about one
week. My questions is with the current set up that I have is it possible to
have an anemone and two clown fish set-up (once the tank is cycled of
course)? <Too small/unstable for an anemone, fine for a clownfish pair.> I
plan on adding more live rock however I just need some direction. Should I
ditch the crushed coral for some type of sand? <Could, would help with
water quality.> I have read various responses on your website as well as in
numerous books and I just wanted to ask a direct question about my specific
set up. Thank you for any and all help that you can provide.
<Welcome>
<Chris>
-Andre F. Ousley
Small Marine Systems... Adam! 2/11/07
Hi
<Hello.>
my name's Jenn, and I'm planning on turning my freshwater aquarium into a
reef aquarium (my boyfriend is taking me freshwater fish) and i had some
basic questions.
the main thing i wanted to purchase was an anemone, i was considering a
Haitian pink tip anemone, or a condolactic anemone, i only have a 10 gallon
tank, so i was only planning on getting a clown fish, and a scarlet hermit
crab, because i don't want to crowd the tank.
my first question is:
is it possible to have an anemone in a 10 gallon tank if i dont buy many
other fish or anyhting.
my second question is:
>My question is why did Adam not send this back to you to correct your
English? WHY do you want to appear ignorant, or have us appear so? WHY do
people think I have nothing better to do with my time? WHY do you not follow
instructions if you want our help? RMF<
which anemone would be better for a small tank?
my third question: what watt of metal halide bulb should i purchase?
my last question:
what clownfish would go best with the anemone you suggest?
I've had many different pets throughout my life, and I know the worst thing
you can do is buy a pet without reading up on it first
<Very Good!>
, it's a good way to kill it and that is the last thing i want. So any tips
you have I would really appreciate.
<Hey Jen try this article first, see if it helps out, if you need
clarification respond and I will be more than happy to do so:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nanoreefsysart.htm.>
thank you so much for your time!
-Jennifer
<Adam J.>
New 32 Gallon Reef Tank Setup 1/30/07
Hi,
<Hello>
Let me start out by saying thanks for helping me out last week - I had my whole
tank destroyed by a brother-in-law who dumped a whole bottle of pellet food into
my tank. Because of some of the tips and emails I received I have so far have
managed to keep my remaining 2 Ocellaris clownfish, Javanese damsel and brown
clown goby, tiger pistol shrimp plus a handful of Nerite snails and some tiny
hermit crabs alive in a small uncycled tank (been changing 25% of the water
every 2 days).
<Good to hear, keep up the good work.>
So rather than re-setup by old glass tank that was filthy and in need of a good
cleaning from the food mishap, I have purchased a 32 gallon M-tank by Finnex.
<Ok>
The version of M-tank I have has a rear sump, but is not setup for any kind of
wet/dry or bio media. This version is a custom version... It has a skimmer, and
refugium with compact fluorescent lighting instead of a wet/dry or filter
tray. <Nice, although I usually am skeptical on the efficiency of the skimmers
that come with these types of setups. Make sure you are able to get it to
work.>
My plan for the tank is this:
1) refugium with either a DSB or Mud with Chaetomorpha and possible mangroves (I
have 2 mangroves left over from my old tank setup). I have read all that there
is on both the DSB and Mud approaches. I plan on having a 3 - 4 inch sand bed
in the main tank and I plan on keeping the skimmer on at all times - do I go
with Mud or go with a DSB in the fuge? <I would go with a DSB, although a mud
system could be worked out too.>
2) I am going to add 30 - 40 pounds of LR - Is it ok to use un-cured since this
is a new setup?
<Yes, even preferable in my opinion.>
3) 3 - 4 inch sand bed with aragonite fine sand bed in the display. (do I use
any store bought live sand or just go with straight aragonite) <Just go with
the aragonite, the LR will seed the sand.>
4) Protein skimmer in the rear sump running 24/7.
<Make sure it produces well or be ready to replace.>
5) Light fixture in compact fluorescent 3 X 55w (165 W total) - each bulb is a
different spectrum.
<Ok>
I plan this Wednesday on adding the sand, then the LR and then adding the water
(RO water using red sea coral pro salt). I will also use bio-Spira as this
seems to me the preferred method to speed up cycling. <Will help, make sure it
is refrigerated, otherwise it is useless.>
In a few weeks after cycling has completed I plan on adding the 2 clownfish,
goby, damsel, pistol shrimp, snails and hermits.
<Slowly if possible, over the course of a few weeks ideally.>
A few more weeks or maybe a month after that I wanted to start introducing some
corals to the reef.
<The longer the better, let the system settle a bit.>
As far as non-corals the most I will add a few months down the road are more
snails and hermits and maybe a starfish like a serpent star or something.
<Careful with the stars, many that are not appropriate for aquariums, and many
that are very good. Both seem to be available equally.>
Down the road maybe another "nano" fish that grows to only a very small size
because I t |