I have the answer for those wanting a FOWLR system in Hawaii  - 10/25/06
To the crew and the intelligent people that support this site, some info people may be interested in.
I have seen many questions on the site concerning Hawaii State laws.  I have been laboring over the same predicament for months almost years.  I have the answer, it takes a long time but with patience you can LEGALLY have a FOWLR (live rock being the key) in the state of Hawaii.  The laws are very strict in Hawaii, the State has good intentions but unfortunately are a bit misguided in my opinion (I even wrote my thesis on the current laws concerning the harvesting of coral for profit).  Many "amateur" reef aquarists are better read and knowledgeable on the propagation of SPS and LPS than in my opinion than those working for the State.  Yes, that may sound a bit harsh, but true.  
Anyway, enough of that, It is easy to go out and collect rock and corals and throw them in your tank in Hawaii, that is true, but illegal, and if you are like me. I still obey the law.  There (without a scientific permit and appropriate facility) is NO legal way of obtaining corals of any kind (save some "black, pink, and gold corals" with the appropriate permit).  Obtaining permits in the State for other than profit is next to impossible, yes a little hypocritical, but that's the way it is.  Now, here is how you do it.
THIS WILL TAKE AN IMMENSE AMOUNT OF WORK, TIME, and PATIENCE..
It is legal to collect rock above the high tide water line, without ANY (not even algae) form of life.  A rock with algae could be a $1000 fine for the first offense.  Now you can see why this will take a while.  So, Collect your rock near the shore, but above the sand (waterline) most abundant on the Northwest side of the island of Oahu (sorry only know about Oahu, other localities/counties may enforce even more strict regulations).  For water use the public access at Sand Island (at the end of Sand Island Access Rd.) has been tested with almost all Salifert kits, and is an incredible source for free! A little high on the salinity side (around 1.029, but that's better than low I guess).  We are allowed, yes legally, to collect one gallon per day of sand and coral rubble seaward of the coastline.  This is how you will get your live sand (go to Bellows AFB or Lanikai beach).
Normally sand collected on the beach isn't a good idea, but it's a little different here than Atlantic City.  Get out there a bit, and it hasn't been touched.  Collect sand first, then when your DSB is establish collect coral rubble, this is the only way to get the coralline to seed your rock. Be sure to collect the sand in the water, yes this is a lot of work, so the sand will seed the rock.  Six months later you WILL have beautiful live rock, and you did it completely legal, then discard the rubble is desired.  I have verified this exact plan through the DLNR and the Hawaii Dept. of Agriculture, and I have done it!  In fact you may print my email if there are any questions concerning legal resources. Nodea717@yahoo.com
Now, if you really want to push your luck, if I remember correctly Zoanthids aren't actually Corals right? Anyway, I am sure you see where I am going with this, you can capture your own inverts as well as fish.  Now go net your fish (as long as the net and arm together do not exceed three feet) and have a gorgeous, completely local FOWLR tank.  P.S. have your local fish store import anything off of the Conditionally accepted list or Restricted B list and have them sell it to you, they already have the permits (stonies and leathers are on the list but they still wont do it!)
Cheers!
Don Williams
<Thanks much for this cogent detailed input Don. Will post/share. Bob Fenner>

New 125g Marine Tank  10/26/06
Hello Bob, I've been reading many questions about filtration and skimmers and so on, and was curious what you thought about my tank setup.  I have a 125G FOWLR with an Eheim 2250,
<Mmm... am not much of a fan of canister filters for the majority of types of marine set-ups>
and 2 emperor 400's.  I have one 1200 powerhead and unfortunately a SeaClone 150 skimmer.  Would a aqua c remora with a mag 3 be large enough to filter this tank?
<Would be a great improvement>
  I have 50lbs of cured live rock and will be purchasing another 50lbs in the next month or so.  I plan on having a niger trigger, valentini puffer, dogface puffer and that's about it.
<These will outgrow this volume...>
  Maybe a dwarf angel and a lawnmower blenny.  My tank is 1 month old.  Nitrates, ammonia, nitrites all at 0ppm.  PH at 8.1, temp at 76.  I'm thinking this will all be ok with a aqua c skimmer but thanks for the help!  And I know the blenny will be a risk.  But I'm not sure what else to do about the algae?
<Read on my friend... All, well most all for now, will be covered by perusing WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Luke Woehler

Tank Upgrade After System Failure - 03/08/2006
Josh- I think you will be happy to hear that I have upgraded my tank size to 32 Gallons tall. It is now cycling and my fish are at the LFS in a holding tank while it does this.
<Very glad to hear it.>
It will be equipped with a ProClear 300 gph wet dry filter w/ overflow box & prefilter and will be skimmed by a modified, stripped, skilter250.
<I would rather go with a standard skimmer, not bother with trying to modify this.>
Lighting will be 2 150 watt SunPaq metal halide pendants (small) and circulation by 5 Rio 600's.
<Powerheads a-plenty! And the return from the wet/dry?>
There will be a 9 watt uv sterilizer, and there is 30 pounds of LR. Besides my high electric bills, how does it sound.
<Much better.>
It is going to be a reef but will start with just FOWLR and another anemone.
<I would hold off on this. Very difficult to keep and not recommended to mix with corals.>
John
<Well John, I'm very sorry for your loss and glad to see the larger tank. I've been unavailable recently and apologize for the delay. Good luck with the new set-up. - Josh>

New Tank, Setup Query
Hello, <Hi! Ryan with you today.>
I first would really like to thank you for this site. <Great to hear!  Many people contribute.> I have been
working for a couple of months on building my first saltwater system. I
really wanted to get an expert opinion about my set up first. <No problem.> So here is
what I have so far. I have a 110 gallon tank. It was not reef ready so I
bought the CPR 102 (GPH 1200). it has two 1" bulkheads draining into my
Rubbermaid sumps. The first sump is for my Turboflotor 1000 (20 gallon)
sump. I have one of the 1" tubes going down into a tee and splitting half
into my large sump (55 gallons) the other half going into my Turboflotor.
Each tube has a ball valve. I have set the sump with my Turboflotor above my
other sump so that I could maintain the water level. Gravity was the best
way from what I had read to keep the level correct. <I'd agree.> The bulkhead drain is at
about 5" high to keep the water level at about 5" constantly. <Make sure there is room to play...Noise my friend> The other 1" bulkhead simply drains into my sump. I have two emperor 400s in my sump. <OK> I
had bought them for my fresh water and could not bare to part with them. <I'd ditch them.  Set up another freshwater...They'll only create nitrate issues in time.> I
have a Mag Drive 1200 as my return pump. I also have an inline UV sterilizer
on the way back up to the return. I currently have about 80lbs of
Agra-Alive. I am planning on ordering about 120lbs of live rock after the
holidays. <That's a good time to ditch the Power filters.> I also have two power heads and a 500watt heater. I also built in a bulkhead at the very top of my large sump just in case something happened
and I had to much water coming into my sump I would have extra room. <Automatic water change in your future?> This
would drain into a 20 gallon Rubbermaid. I only want a Lion Fish and maybe a
tank mate if I can find anything that would go with him. <I'd suggest a wrasse of sorts...Just not bite sized!> I just really want to do this correct. My lighting is a simple dual 48" hood. Will this be
enough for the live rock? <Yes, but you'll need to add calcium and alkalinity to ensure good colors.> I really hope this is correct. Currently I only have sand and water in my tank. I do not plan on doing anything until I have
the live rock and everything completely cycled and ready. <I too was cautious in the beginning...You'll be gluing sessile animals to rock soon!> I have spent several months pouring over the information on this site and truly hope I am
not wasting your time. <Ah, shucks> I am only nervous about my first tank and do not want
to make any major mistakes.
<The only major mistake I see in your setup was waiting so long!  Enjoy it, don't be hesitant if you've got questions down the road.  Good luck! Ryan>
So how does this sound?
<Sounds like you've got the bug to me.>

New FOWLR
Hey again... since you're obviously up late anyway, I was hoping you could answer some grander questions about the fish world for me.  I've poured through the Site quite a bit, and it seems answers must be tailored to circumstance rather than formula.  So here's my circumstance:  I've successfully (for the most part) kept fish for about 10 years with very few bells and whistles.  I felt like an "old hand" at it.  Sold my big tank a while ago (DUMB) and now have a 29er that I don't know why I even bothered.  So I want to get big again.  Well, due to space limitations, I may have to get medium, but whatever.  So I get online looking for used tanks and hit upon your site, and others, and now find that my old ways are not very stylish.  I figure if I'm going to get a new tank I want to do it right.  I'm honestly overwhelmed.  Here's my style and my intentions:  I like aggressive, messy tanks.  Puffers, triggers, maybe eels, stuff like that.  Never done the reef thing, but am not averse to it.  Maybe way down the line.  Would it be a good idea to get set up (minus lighting) for a reef even though it would be fish only for now?  I don't want to have to replace stuff again. What I have is an undergravel filter w/one powerhead over crushed coral, a Fluval 304, and a hang-on dual filter.  I plan on getting a skimmer, but don't know what kind or how big (say, for a 100 gallon?).  I'd like to lose the UG.  Do I need a wet/dry deal?  Sump?  What would you suggest for me?  Thanks.
<Hi Deb, Don here today. I would recommend a fish only with live rock (FOWLR) with a sump and an oversized skimmer. The EuroReef and AquaC get good marks from many here. Do not skimp on the skimmer. The skimmer will go into the sump. In the sump you can use a DSB for NNR if you want. Less than 1" of fine sand or more than 4" in the main tank. I agree on losing the UG (although some here would disagree). I would stay away from the wet/dry (again with some disagreement) and if you use the Fluval you will need to clean it weekly or more. Look for FOWLR on this site for more. Be careful with the fish you choose as many aggressive fish will eat corals, or setup another tank for reef. Good luck, Don>
Deb

-Advice for new FOWLR-
Hi folks - I'm setting up a FOWLR system. I already have a very small reef system with a pair of common clowns and a few stony corals but there's no room in there for any more fish so it has to be a new tank... <Sweet!>
Here is the proposed setup:
4' x 15" x 15" display tank (max. water volume about 40 gal) <Ahhh, nice and shallow. A bit narrow no? Reminds me of a 55, but a little wider.>
3' x 12" x 12" sump (max. water volume about 24 gal)
Circulation:
I have drilled the display tank with three 1.5" bulkheads and will have an Eheim 1260 returning water from the sump at about 500 gph via a manifold at the top of the display tank. I will probably supplement this with powerheads lower in the tank, perhaps behind the rockwork. <Good idea. Get as much flow in there as you can.>
Filtration:
I propose to put 40 lb of live rock on 0.5" of sand in the display tank. <Although the tank is relatively shallow already, I would still encourage you to install a 3.5" minimum deep live sand bed to benefit from all the goodies that they have to offer.> I would like to divide the sump into three chambers: skimmer (Turboflotor 1000), deep sand bed and return. If I do this, the area for the DSB will be about 18" x 12". Do you think this combination of skimmer, LR in the display and DSB in the sump will provide adequate filtration? <I would go with a different skimmer, I've used the Turboflotor and now you couldn't pay me to take one. Precision Marine and AquaC make some pretty incredible skimmers for reasonable prices, you should look into them.> Should I add LR to the DSB chamber in the sump as well? <That is up to you. It's a good idea to have this DSB chamber, an even better one to have a DSB in the main tank as well. Sorry, I just really love DSB's!>
I would also like some advice about stocking this tank. I would like three or four interesting, colourful, and hardy fish. I would love your opinion on the suitability of the following fish/wish list for my setup:
scarlet Hawkfish - Neocirrhites armatus
long nosed butterfly - Forcipiger flavissimus <Will be fine for a while, but they do max out just under 8" long>
flame angel - Centropyge loricula
tomato clown - Amphiprion frenatus
orchid Dottyback - Pseudochromis fridmani
sixline wrasse - Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
<Everything sounds good, I wish you great success! -Kevin>
Many thanks
John Kellett

-FOWLR follow-up-
Thanks a lot Kevin AND Scott for your helpful replies to my FOWLR questions.
<You're very welcome, we're happy to help!>
I watched a juvenile scarlet Hawkfish in a holding tank for about 20 minutes in the LFS. He watched me right back! I've also observed one in a full blown reef setup and they're fascinating fish.
<That they are, got to love the independent eye motion!>
I did wonder whether the long nosed butterfly might get too big - thanks for confirming this. I'll wait for a bigger system before trying one of these guys.
<Excellent idea, I wish you much luck with this setup. -Kevin>
John

Ideal 45gal FOWLR setup?
Hey guys, Thanks for the most informative site on the web! No need to say more!
<thanks kindly :) >
I am about to setup my first FOWLR tank after 10 years. I have been reading your site for months in prep and I have a few final questions.  Thank you for taking the time to assist me in a hopefully successful setup.
Sorry my questions are bouncing all over.
-Here's my setup:
45 Gal (36x12x22)
All glass compact fluor. w/ 2 55W bulbs
Deciding on a Aqua C Remora or Remora Pro (for future larger tank)
<yes... the latter if possible>
Emperor 400 w/o bio wheels-for basic mech and carbon filtering
40 lbs live rock added 20lbs at a time for $$$ reasons
40 lbs of live aragonite
<you do not need anywhere near this much live sand... just a couple pounds literally to seed a dry bed. Take this money saved and buy more live rock please>
1 or 2 powerheads
-I would like to have:
1 tang-not sure which type, possible yellow eye or similar less aggressive
<a 45 gallon tank is not big enough for any tang species really... but a Yellow Eye/Kole tang is a very good choice. They are excellent brown algae grazers>
3 tank raised O clowns
2 green Chromis
1 fox face-small
1 pajama cardinal
and a goby or 2
also a few turbo snails, blue legs and scarlet reefs and cleaner shrimp
-Would all get along or should 1 or 2 be deleted?
<all good except for the tang... and do seek the smallest Foxface species for the same reason (slow growing fortunately)>
-Will any fish or cleaners work against the growth of my live rock?
<no serious problems here>
-My live rock will be from my LFS and will be added in 2 or 3 parts, if the LR is cured should it be added after my cycle or during?
<as early as possible to ensure a better start>
-Will there be any danger to my fish to add any cured rock at a later date?
<its a good habit to refresh/add live rock periodically>
-Will the 2 55W C-Fluorescents be enough for coralline algae, mushroom, leather and polyps in a tank this deep and what type bulb combo do you recommend?
<it can work... but keep corals in the top 10" of water here under weaker lamps>
-Will the 40 lbs of live rock be enough to not need a wet/dry even if added 15 lbs at a time
<yes... without the tang and Foxface>
-I am getting the impression that the Aqua C Remora is one of the best, are there any advantages or disad. of getting a HOT or setting up a sump, I am fearful on a leak problem with the sump and have never dealt with a sump before.
<sumps do not overflow with proper planning. I find them highly advantageous and would not discourage you from one>
-How necessary will RO water be for this setup, I have a city well that is treated but I'm sure it's high in phosphates, will this affect my LR growth?
<more a problem with possibly causing problematic nuisance algae growth. Seek DI or RO water if possible>
-Where should my powerheads be located?
<opposing each other to converge and create random turbulent water flow>
-And last what chemicals do you recommend for nice coralline algae growth on the LR with my existing lighting setup?
<Seachem's Reef Calcium is a nice supplement to Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide), SeaBuffer and regular water changes>
Thank You once again for the great service you provide to our hobby!!  Randy-Chicago
<very welcome, my friend. Best regards, Anthony>

- New Tank Setup -
I am going from a 30 gal FOWLR to a 58 gal reef ready FOWLR tank. I have a Merlin sand filter a Prizm protein skimmer w/surface skimmer an Ebo Jager 200 watt heater an AquaClear 200 filter a couple of sweeping powerheads for water movement about 10 lbs of live rock (getting more every week) all of this is in my 30 gal what else do I need to get or upgrade for the 58 gal. The tank will be drilled (I guess no kidding if it is reef ready) what do I need under the tank where it is drilled and so on I appreciate everything you guys do, your the best, the most wonderful, intelligent, (if I keep going will you also come over and set it all up for me) <No.> witty, knowledgeable........lol........ thanks again.  Steve
<Steve, sounds to me like you've got some work to do. A good place to start would be reading the various articles and FAQs in our marine setup section:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm  Most of the equipment you describe is built to hang on the back of the tank, and the nature of drilled tanks is such that the typical set-up involves some type of sump and all equipment is kept below the tank. Likewise, you should invest in a larger quantity of live rock - try to get to about one pound per gallon. As for what goes under the overflow... it's time to work with PVC pipe. If you are decidedly not comfortable with this, consider working with the store where you've bought all this stuff and have the tank installed for you.
Cheers, J -- >

Live rock only tank?
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have had moderate success in the past with a fish only 10 gal......It
lasted 3 years with a Skilter filter modified with a wooden airstone and
regular 1 gallon per week water changes before I had to move.   Rather than
dismantling, transporting and re-setting up, I gave the fish to a local reef
store.  Anyways, that was 7 years ago. I haven't had a tank since.
<Can be done>
Now here I am in a new place in life, and wanting back "in".  I have bought
a 20 gallon tank and a Seaclone skimmer (I know, I know....I wish I had
found this website before I bought that one! No matter...read on)  I also
bought a Coralife light strip.  It has 1 daylight and 1 actinic Compact
Flour each with dedicated power and 4 built in fans. It's neat for a small
setup like this.  So far, I put in the saltwater, 1 bag of Aragalive
substrate (about 1" deep.) and one 7" diameter live rock to cycle the tank.
Now, 1 month old, it is cycled.  I tested way too much, driving my wife
crazy, but I saw the ammonia go up and down, and the Nitrate go up and down.
The nitrite cycle must have been quick, because I never got anything other
than 0.
<Happens>
  All three are currently zero.  I fed the tank 1 capful of DTs to
help fuel the bacteria.  I got a short diatom outbreak which subsided, and
now it looks great.  The SeaClone produces about 2 ounces of watery green
and brown smelly (needs more tweaking). Now I have ordered 25 more lbs. of
live rock.  It should be here today.  My ultimate goal is to have only live
rock with lots of coralline, a cleaning crew of snails and crabs, a clone
BTA (captive propagated), and a pair of ocellaris clowns (not the natural
clown pair for a BTA, but I have read that they will accept a BTA as home).
<Most of the time, yes>
To some this may sound boring, but I'm thrilled and excited, and I am sure
not ready to go deeper into the hobby (reef) with this equipment, IMO.
<Okay>
The BTA and clowns will not be purchased for several months.  I really want
to get my live rock and cleaners in check.  I really want to understand the
needs of a "live rock only" setup.
<Sounds good>
Now, since there are no animals to speak of, can I support the rock system
with only water changes, trigluconate calcium, and Reef Builder?
<Yes>
  I have
read practically all of the posts on WWM, and they tend to dance around this
question. I don't want to use anything that will add the chloride. It seems
crazy to have to get into Kalkwasser or calc reactors for such a small, no
coral setup.
<Not necessary>
Also, with no fish, do I need to feed the tank occasionally to keep the
bacteria bed alive (like the DT's phytoplankton)?
<Adding just a "bit" of food occasionally would be beneficial... the equivalent of a few flakes or such per week>
I was disturbed at the post below.  It insinuates that my live rock will die
in a FOWLR setup. I hope not.  My goal is coralline algae.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fowlrfaqs.htm
>>Lighting for FOWLR
>>hello, I just got 7lbs or live rock for my 55gal (I'm going slow), and I am
using 1 PowerGlo and 1 marine Glo. is this
>>enough lighting for my FOWLR tank?<it should be> or should I replace the 1
Marineglo with another PowerGlo?<you
>>could> do the live rocks need actinic lighting?<they look better, most of
the LR will die anyways w/out reef
>>chemistry>  I like the look of 2 PowerGlo better.<me too>also, I have a
remote 5 gal tank with 4 inches of DSB in it.
>>will this give me denitrification if run slow water to it thru my system?
if so, how much water turnover? <you could make
>>this into a small refugium and then upgrade to say a 20gal aquarium later,
It will be very beneficial for your fish-do read
>>about refugiums on the WWM site http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm>
>>what plants do u suggest I add to that refugium to help with water
quality? I was thinking of Chaetomorpha or tang
>>heaven.<yeah these two sp. have proven to work well> I heard of staying
away from Caulerpa.<agreed> also, what
>>supplements do I need to add now that I have live rock? calcium or
Kalkwasser? and how about if I add macro algae?
>><you really don't need to add any supplements in a FOWLR system, good luck
with everything, it sounds like you are
>>on the right track, IanB>
Thanks for your help, and great website!
Mike M.
<Mmm, I think/consider that you should do just fine with your plans. Bob Fenner>

More FOWLR Questions...
Thanks a lot Scott, I just come back to office from a long holiday, really appreciated your quick and sharp answers that relief me a lots.
<Glad to be of help!>
As I am new to this hobby, forgive me to ask a few more questions :
<Sure! That's why we're here!>
I plan to install a fan (6 inch exhaust fans, is it ok?) to my main
tank (with no canopy) to reduce the temperature, may I know what is the best way to place it ?
<You may have to experiment. Some people like to direct the fan's flow across the water surface at the top of the tank, lengthwise. Other hobbyists advocate blowing the fans directly into the water...Try them both and see which works best for you>
I plan to place it somewhere at the center of the main tank (but a bit to real side and hiding behind the lighting stand) and blow it direct to the surface of water (right angle at 90 degree). Is it ok?
<Sounds like a logical arrangement...Give it a try!>
However, I have been told that it would be best to adjust it at certain angle (says about 45 degree) to increase its efficiency. Is it true ? (but the installation job would be harder.)
<Try the easiest way first! That way, you won't have had to go to all of the effort if it doesn't work well!>
As mentioned before, I placed some feather-like Caulerpa to my refugium. I heard that this kind of long feather Caulerpa will release toxic substances into the water when tangs have eaten it and release the toxin together with its waste, is the statement true ?
<Well, to a certain extent, it is true. Damaged Caulerpa fronds do leach out substances into the water which can have adverse effects on corals. When the algae goes into its reproductive phase and releases sex products into the water, serious environmental degradation can potentially occur...I'm not saying that you are guaranteed to have a disaster if you use Caulerpa, but it's something to consider. That's what I like to use macroalgae that have less potential for problems, such as Chaetomorpha or Gracilaria, just to mention a few>
Just purchased a 2 inch Moral Goby (sleeper/shifter goby) with very cheap price (about USD3.50 after Rringgit to USD conversion). Will Moral Goby burrow under gravel? Will it be harmful/destructive to my 4 inch DSB with plenum? How do you rate this fish in term of easy keeping ? (easy, easy to medium, medium, medium to difficult and difficult ?). I plan to add few more gobies to my tank (fire goby & LG goby), will they be fighting each other?
<Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the common name that you're using for this fish. If you can provide a scientific name or a picture, I might be able to help out. Gobies that dig in the sand bed are definitely a potential problem with a plenum-equipped system. Although the top screen in the plenum design may alleviate some potential problems caused by "diggers", I'd avoid using fishes that carry this potential>
I checked the specific gravity of my tank yesterday, it has been raised to about 1.030 without my knowledge (may be due to too many live rock I added and water evaporation). Will it be too high for my FOWLR system?
<Well, it will not be good for the long run...You should get it down to a "normal" level...>
What is the max allowable gravity the marine fish can stand?
<Well, many fishes can handle horrific s.g. levels, but you're best keeping them at 1.022-1.025, IMO>
Really appreciated your expertise. Thanks you very much !!!
Best regards,
PJ
<Glad to help, PJ! Good luck!>

FOWLR Questions
Hello crew, first of all, thanks for valuable info available in your website which is very resourceful & helpful. I have a few questions to ask, which I have summarized into a point form:
<Sure>
1. I have a 90 gal FOWLR tank (with 30 gal refugium) fill up with 50 lbs of live rocks, 4 tube worms, 4 inches DSB, 6 fishes of average 3 inches of size, about 2 months old. I have installed 2 auto-timer for my lighting, 1 for main tank and another 1 for refugium. The timer for main tank is set to on at : 6am to 10am and 5pm to 11pm. The timer for refugium is set to on at : reverse/opposite to main tank. Will that be okay ?
<Sure! A great way to help stabilize system pH.
The reason I set different on-period for main tank is because I wake up and work on 6:15am and return home at 5:30pm. I don't want to on the light for too long as I don't have a chiller and don't want to overheat my tank (I have 2 30W full spectrum + 1 actinic blue install in main tank).
2. Will 50 lbs of LR be sufficient for my FOWLR tank. My LFS suggest that fishes need more swimming space, so I have taken out 20lbs of LR and put into the refugium
<I am of the "less rock is okay" school. I think that 50lbs is just fine for a FOWLR tank>
3. Is the calculation of gal for a aquarium tank including the non water portion of the tank, or just water portion ?
<The gallons calculation is the total water capacity of the aquarium. Obviously, when you put in the rock, sand, etc., the water capacity is diminished somewhat. So, your 90 gallon tank might hold 50 gallons of water after you account for these items.>
4. I have bought a 2.5 inches Singapore Angel 2 days ago, it looks quite healthy and never stop picking at my LR, however I have a problem to feed it, looks like it refuse to take any kind of flake foods that I current offer to my fishes (damsels, crowns, tangs). I can't get any details info about Singapore Angel fish in your website, so can you help to advise if anyway (or anything) I can feed it ?
<This is a fish that has a reputation for being a bit touchy, in terms of feeding. You may need to try different frozen foods, such as Mysis, etc. The live rock will provide ample foraging for a while, but keep trying different foods>
5. My tank temperature is quite consistent at 30degree Celsius (or lowest is 29degree). Is it ok ? (the fish looks quite happy with good appetite except the Singapore).
<I like a slightly lower temperature (like 25-26 degrees C).>
6. I know that the optimum temperature should be around 25 degree Celsius, does it applies to tropical marine fishes also ?
<Yep!>
I have been to a few marine park in East coast Malaysia that the water is warmer in day time.
<Yes, but I think it's easier to maintain smaller closed systems at lower temperatures, as the water holds more oxygen, and things (both good and bad) happen a bit slower!>
7.The return water from main tank flows very strong in my refugium that creates a lot of bubbles, will it be causing any trouble with the green plants and live rock in it ?
<Not in my opinion. There is some thought that microbubbles may irritate corals, but this should not be a problem in your tank. Mainly an aesthetic consideration>
8. I heard that the LR with sponges (half transparent in white colour) will create problem to the tank, is that true ?
<Only if there is a massive die-off of sponges during cycling, as they can foul the water rather quickly. Otherwise, they will be an interesting part of your aquarium>
Sorry to bother you with too much questions but you are the best ones that I know who can help to answer my questions accurately.
Thanks. Best regards,
PJ
<Glad to be of assistance, PJ! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Help w/ FOWLR tank
Hey Guys, <Michael here, catching up on emails now that I have a day off!> 
Was wondering if I could get some advice out here in LA. I have a 125G tank (48x24x24) currently in the process of being made. I intend on it being fish only (Angels, Triggers, Puffer, Eel). <Well, it would be suitable for certain angels or a trigger or some species of pufferfish, but most definitely not all 3> 
I am torn on: 
1) Filtration - do I need bioballs? Or can I just get a Euro-Fil 2 filter and expect there to be enough bio filtration from the live rock (how much would I need in this case?). If you recommend bioballs, I was thinking Amiracle SL-400? <I recommend using a wet dry filter and a heavy duty skimmer. Did you mean the Amiracle MR-400? If so, that's an excellent wet\dry filter, and coupled with a good skimmer, would be perfect for your tank> 
2) Skimming - will the ASM G1x be sufficient? Or would you go with G2 for a larger fish load? <If you wanted to go with that brand of skimmers, and seeing the G2x only costs about 10 dollars more, I would go with the larger one. I also recommend the AquaC Remora skimmers if you are looking for recommendations> 
Thx so much for your help, <Anytime> 
Tom 
<M. Maddox>

New Tank Setup
Hello Bob (or whoever is kind enough to be helping today),
<Ryan here, hello!>
I am going to set up a 90 gal. FOWLR aquarium, and being that I am
new to the marine world have been reading a couple books, and going over
your FAQs to try to gather information before getting started.  I was just
hoping you could help me with a quick check to see if I am on the right
path. <Surely>
The fish I am looking into are neon gobies, clowns, royal Gramma,
six-line wrasse, flame or coral beauty angel, and/or a Heniochus. <I am in support of all selections as wonderful beginner's fish.  Please wait 6 or more months before introducing the angelfish> But my
question at this time pertains more to the overall setup.  I will let you
know my plan and if you would be so kind as to let me know if it is workable
or requires any adjustments. <No problem>
I intend to get a drilled 90 gal tank, and use a 30 gal aquarium as
the sump that is fed through a filter bag. <Very nice>  In the sump would be a
Turboflotor 1000 in a first section. <If you haven't purchased it yet, perhaps look towards Euro-Reef or Aqua-C?  I have found these to be my favorite in-sump skimmers.>  A second section that could contain
some sand and live rock, and the heaters. <You may want to skip the sand altogether- Sand wears down pumps very quickly.>  This would be followed by some
baffles where I could use a sponge for polishing, and/or activated carbon
and then a Eheim 1262 for the return pump. <Great> I intend to use 2-65w PC
lighting, and place at least 45 pounds, more if I can afford it, of live
rock in the main tank.  I guess my main question at this time is would I
require more circulation than the one pump could provide? <I would recommend an additional form of circulation- Anything from a pair of maxi-jet 1200's will work> IYO would I be
better off curing the live rock in the new tank with sand, or curing it in a
separate container, and then moving it to the display tank? <Curing in a separate container is ideal, because you have the opportunity to remove unwanted specimens on the way to the display.  Make sure to take a clean toothbrush, and remove all Valonia, Aiptasia, dead sponge, etc.> Finally, if I
intend to store pre-mixed water in a garbage can, for water changes, how big
of a power head do I need in there for circulation? <Not too large at all- Just powerful enough that the surface does not become stagnant.> Thank you very much for your time, you folks offer a wonderful service.
<Price is sure right! Good luck, Ryan>
Dan Kohne

- Moving from 30 to a 55 -
I have a 30g FOWLR undergravel filter tank with a bio wheel that has been set up for a year. It has been doing great and so far no problems. I started as a FO tank but over time have added 40lb.s of LR.
Now I feel I am ready for a 55g FOWLR tank.
I do not want to use an undergravel filter in my new tank after reading you articles and I hate moving the LR when cleaning the crushed coral.
I want to set up the 55g with;
Live sand (how deep) <Either two inches or less OR four inches or more.>
Live water
LR
PS
2 power heads (in the tank, no place else)
1 bio wheel.
Will this work? <Should do fine - would like to see a protein skimmer in the mix.>
My problem is that the existing tank has to go when the new tank comes in.
Would putting some of the crushed coral under the LS help the cycling process in the new tank? <Yes, but the live rock will likely be doing most of the work.>
Should I set up the Power heads with a sponge in the existing tank for a couple of weeks to help? <You can if you want - every little bit helps.>
Thanks in advance for your help.
Mike
<Cheers, J -- > 

FOWLR - How much More Fowl Can it Get? (sans any punctuation to speak of)
hello crew ! got one for you. I have a 25gal euro-Fil sump with a micron bag at the drain and an ev-180 skimmer and a foam block before going to my inline Iwaki return pump. I want to go with live rock in the 120 gal tank. can I get away without the inverts, sifters etc....? if so what would be the best substrate? and at what depth? <I would use crushed coral...or aragonite. And use about 1" of the substrate>after gaining experience with the live rock only I plan on later just adding a few snails and a few soft corals. thanks for any input.<Sounds good, IanB>

FOWLR Setup
Dear Crew:
<Hi there, Scott F. with you tonight.>
Would really appreciate some advice.
<I'll do my best to help you!>
Aquarium store has provided me a quote for a new setup (BTW - live in NYC):
Recommended:
48" x 18" x 27.5" Oceanic glass tank w/ 2 side overflows for $2500
W/D Filter for $400
Return Pump for $270
Protein Skimmer for $500
UV Sterilizer for $300
Chiller $1100
<WOW!  Some of those prices might be a bit high.  Do shop around, or check the Internet.  Some forums may have boards where fellow reefers sell their used items.  You may want to look into buying used items as well.>
Questions:
1.  Is W/D Filter appropriate for this type of setup?
<Well, it all depends on what you want to keep.  W/D filters with plastic filtration media are very efficient with fish only aquariums, but may not be as effective for a reef tank.>
2.  Is UV Sterilizer necessary?
<There are many varying opinions on this.  I personally do not use one, but many successful hobbyists do.  There are not considered a mandatory piece of equipment, in my opinion.>
3.  The dimensions of the tank were provided to fit into existing aquarium cabinetry.  The quote is for a custom tank.  Would you recommend going to a stock 24" tank - to 1) save $ and 2) b/c the setup is for smart retro lights? Even for a custom, pricing seems ridiculous - you agree?
<The pricing does seem a bit high to me.  However, prices do vary from region to region and from manufacturer to manufacturer.  As far as going to a stock 24" tank, it's really your call.  It all depends on your goals for your system.>  
4.  The Chiller seems unnecessary to me - what do you think?
<Depends on your region and ambient temperature produced by light prompts, etc.  I would consider a chiller more essential than a UV stabilizer.>
I have read a lot of materials but still trying to piece it all together.
<There is a lot of information out there, and before purchasing anything, research carefully and ask around.  Perhaps you have a local reef club with members that can guide you in selecting your equipment, etc.  It's an expensive hobby to start up, so visit other people's aquariums, talk to different hobbyists, etc., before spending the big bucks.>
If I haven't provided enough color for you to opine, please let me know.  Your sage counsel would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance.
SPL
<You have provided enough information, but do ask yourself what are your goals in this hobby and with your system before having others tell you what to purchase with your hard earned money.  There is no rush, so take your time!  Good luck!  Regards, Scott F.>

Substrate in a FOWLR
Hi all,
<Hi....MikeD here>
I am one of those strange folks who is going back to a fish only system from
a reef.<Welcome partner, I did that long ago>  I have used DSB for a few years with success but would like to get
back to crushed coral or crushed shells.  Of course, DSB is all the rage and
pretty much the predominant advice you get these days from the discussion
boards, but is crushed coral still a good idea?<CC or aragonite now comes in different grades an option we didn't have in the past. I prefer the finer, sand grade myself and use it in my tanks>  My goal is to have a clean
look at the bottom of the tank but not bare.  Will I be disappointed with my
future nitrate count?<Possibly, depending on feeding, clean up crew and such. Again, you're now seeing many more options that make it much easier, such as small conchs, pistol shrimp, sea cucumbers and sifting sea star species. IMO the more variety you have in your DSB the better the odds of success>  Are there other pitfalls I am not thinking about?<Just make sure your tank is arranged so that you can't get gas pockets forming under the LR, which can be a very real danger>
Thanks for any input you can provide.
<You're welcome. Hope this helped at least a little and don't forget to enjoy.>
Paul D. DiGiorgio

Substrate in a FOWLR
MikeD,
<at your service>
Thanks for the response.  Can I ask a couple of more questions?<Sure, fire away.>
Can I do away with the DSB entirely and just have CC on the bottom for
looks?<Sure. Many people do just this, relying on filters ,LR, bioballs, etc. There's almost always more than just one way, with the best one being the one that works best for you and your fish.>  In a fish only tank, wouldn't the clean up critters just get eaten
by the fish?<Sometimes, but that depends on what you're using for a clean up crew and what type fish you're attempting to keep.  The mix has to be tailored to each individual combination of species.  There are currently more types of "clean up crews" available than ever before in the hobby, and it seems to be getting better and better all the time, but collectors, wholesalers and retailers are often slow to try something new.  By living by the sea, I have many creatures available that are great, but simply not readily available to most folks.  I've actually talked to some wholesalers who often answer," There's no market for those!" Without ever realizing that of course there isn't...they've never been offered for sale and no-one knows just how good they work.>
Thanks again.<You're very welcome>

75 gallon fish only tank
<Hi Chris, MacL here.>
I currently have a 58g reef ready tank with 70lbs live rock, 40lbs live
sand, 250w 10k metal halide light, and Euroreef CS 6-1 skimmer.  I have
two Acros, one brain, one finger leather, and one toadstool leather.
Everything seems to be thriving and I like the “skimmer only” system. <Sounds very nice indeed.>
OK, to my real question.  I have a 75 gallon tank that I would like to set
up as a fish only tank.  I would like to use the same type of Berlin
system on this tank if possible.  I’m thinking of using an AquaC Remora
Pro w/overflow box, 90lbs of live rock, 60lbs of live sand and 4x65w power
compacts for lighting.  This would keep me from having to set up anything
under the tank. How does this sound and would you recommend different
filtration or lighting for a fish only tank? <My only caution would be to investigate the fish that you wish to buy and set it up based on their needs and requirements.  For instance, say you wanted a lion fish, they need to have a place to hide or they can become stressed.  And some of the deep sea fish need less lighting.>  If there is a better way to set up a fish only tank please advise.  <I really think you are on the right track.> I’m trying to not spend too much money, but I’m not willing to sacrificing quality.
I also have some questions about livestock for this tank.  I would like to
keep one trigger, one medium size angelfish, and some other smaller fish. <My only caution here is that some triggers become very big and very very aggressive.  A lot of setting up your tank is going to depend on the "one fish" that you really want to have.>
Do you have any recommendations and how many fish can I expect to keep?  <That depends on the size of what you choose.>
Thanks,
Chris

Upgrading 90 FO to 180 FO 6/14/04
I was hoping that you could give me some advice on upgrading my tank.  I currently have a 90 gallon FOWLR.  I will soon be moving and see it as a chance to upgrade.  I have had my eye on a 180-gallon tank, and would like your input on what I would need to add/change.  First, livestock includes: algae blenny, coral beauty angel, black and white Heniochus, yellow tang, dogface puffer, snowflake moray, and a Volitans.  As for hardware, I have a CPR 900 wet/dry with Rio 2100, Cascade 1000 canister, 36W UV sterilizer,
48" single fluorescent light, 48" single power compact strip, and the SeaClown 100 (which I have learned to despise).
<I have to disclose a bias...  Except in the case of heavily stocked predator tanks, I generally recommend that even fish only tanks be managed like reef tanks (no intense lighting needed, of course).  I generally suggest relying on live rock and a good skimmer for the lion's share of filtration and maintaining normal-high calcium and alkalinity so that coralline algae predominates over nuisance varieties.  Live rock is perfectly capable of handling the biological filtration and wet/dry's lead to nitrate accumulation.>
If I move up to a 180, would there be room for any additional fish, say a blue regal tang or more?
<Absolutely.>
I traded in my old blue tang after she began nipping at the fins of the puffer but I would like to have one again.  I have also thought about a large angel.
<You definitely have the space, but you must consider such unpleasant interactions when adding new fish.  Also, you may have to be prepared to give up a newly added fish or one of your old friends, depending on your priorities.>
I have only about 50 lbs of live rock and would like to purchase more for a 180, maybe another 50-100 lbs.
<Great idea!  Good quality rock (like Marshall Islands or Kaelini) is more porous and you get more for your dollar, and fill more space with less pounds.  It also has more surface area for biological filtration.  If you aim for an aesthetically pleasing amount of rock, you should be in a reasonable range for good function as well.>
Would I need to bump up the lighting for the live rock?
<Probably not, unless you want to encourage the growth of any hitch hiking corals or macro algae>
Might it be okay if I kept the SeaClone and add an AquaC Remora Pro or Urchin Pro?  The sump of the wet/dry is about 9x9.5"... not really enough space for the EV series.
<I would forget about the sea-clone.  Even with modifications, it is only good for up to about a 20-30 gallon tank.  An urchin or Remora are way too small for a 180 with the stocking levels you are aiming for.  More evidence of my bias...  I would use some simple, central mechanical filtration in place of the wet/dry (micron bags or blue filter pad for example).  I would also probably consider a larger, basic sump (a 40 gal breeder would be a great choice).  This would give you plenty of room for a bigger skimmer (like an EV-180 or EV-240).>
Also, would I want to add another filter?  I thought about another CPR 900, but maybe I need a canister for more mechanical instead?  With all of these factors, what would you say is the order of importance for changing/adding?  Thank you for your help and time.
<I would eliminate all power filters/mechanical filter in favor of one simple central mechanical filter a described above.  Power/canister filters are maintenance hassles and along with wet/dries promote the accumulation of nitrate.  Any mechanical filter should be thoroughly cleaned every few days, and you are far more likely to actually do so with one easily accessible central filter.
Additional recommendations would be to get a "reef ready" tank, or better yet, have the tank drilled with several holes along the upper back edge for drainage and return to and from your sump.  Brisk water movement (at least 5-10x the tank volume per hour) will help keep wastes in suspension and moving toward your central mechanical filter.  Hope this all helps!  Adam>

New FOWLR Set Up (6/8/04)
Hi, and thanks so much for being here. <Hi there, Leslie here and it is my pleasure. .>I started my first marine tank about 9 months ago. I started with clownfish, damsels, grammas, and other smaller fish. < A very nice place to start. > I feel that I have been successful with them. I have traded in my reef system in order to change to more aggressive fish.
I currently have a 55 gallon tank, but I will be upgrading to a 125 in October. <How exciting. I love setting up newer bigger tanks. > I have about 60+- pounds of live rock. <Sounds good> I have a Cascade canister filter, <I am not a big fan of canister filters and most here do not recommend them, especially for a tank with such messy eaters and big waste producers.....Triggers and Eels.  Canisters accumulate quite a bit of waste and are not easily cleaned, as a result IME most do not clean them as frequently as required. Most recommend a sump with redundant, vigorous and over-sized filtration... especially mechanical, these are large, active, messy fishes. > 1 power head, and a SeaClone/SeaClown protein skimmer (I've discovered a simple modification that makes it work much better, so I can deal with it until I can get an Aqua C Remora--which I will get in October, as well) You want to be sure to get a skimmer rated for more than your tank size.  
On this new set-up my plan for inhabitants are:
1 Niger Trigger , 1 Humu Humu Trigger,  1 Volitans Lionfish  1 Snowflake Moray Eel  and various crabs and snails.
I've read many articles on compatibility and find that there are many different views on the compatibility of these fish. <Ah my favorite part of this hobby the varying opinions. It makes life so much more interesting and confusing **BIG grin**>  .Could you please give me your opinion of this?
< Sure here goes.....the Niger Trigger and Humu Humu Trigger may possibly work out, depending on the personalities of the individual fish but it may be risky. I personally would not do it, but I then tend to error on the side of caution, one to many hard learned lessons. The 2 Triggers should be added to the bigger tank simultaneously, if you decide to give it a try  and you should have a back up  plan if the mix is less than friendly. Please do have a look at the following articles, if you have not already seen them.......
Family Balistidae http://www.wetwebmedia.com/triggers2.htm
Rating Triggerfishes of the Red Sea http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/triggers/redsea_triggers.htm
Triggerfishes of the Hawaiian Islands  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/triggers/hawaii_triggers.htm >
The Volitans Lionfish  with the Triggers would not be recommended. The Triggers will nip at the Lion's long appendages which will place the Lionfish at risk for infection over time......Check out Triggerfish Compatibility http://www.wetwebmedia.com/triggercompfaqs.htm
The Snowflake Moray Eel should be fine but you will need to keep the lid tightly closed and I do mean tight.....they can and will find their way out of the smallest holes as well as push through or past what you think may be secure enough. >
The various snails and crabs will end up as a pricey dinner for the Triggers. Unfortunately clean up critters are difficult to keep in these tanks.>
The fish will all be small, to start--only about 3 inches on the Triggers and Lion and probably about 5 on the moray.
<Ideally it would be best to plan and stock the tank based on the adult size of the fish.>
I already have the Niger Trigger. <Utto, this could present a bit of a problem.  Triggers should be the last in the sequence when adding fish > It has been properly quarantined and acclimatized < That's great!! > and is now in the main tank. So if there are any problems with my fish selection could you give me an alternative considering that the Niger is already there?  
<  Sure.... I am a bit prejudice here. So, that said,  a few of my personal favorites include some combination of  the following fish......the Australian Harlequin Tuskfish,  the Puffers, perhaps one of the Dogface Puffers, a boisterous wrasse like one of the Thalassoma species, a pair of  Hawkfish and one of the Hamlets.
There is an excellent thread on the very under rated Hamlets here.... http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=376451
In addition, since you already have the Niger and it is recommended to add these fish last, you may have to at least rearrange the rock work when new fish are added and possibly remove it to another tank for a few weeks remove.  It would be best to add the new fish after the Niger has been well fed and with the lights out.
Thank you so much. Wet Web Media is one site that I completely trust for reliable answers. Thanks so much that is wonderful to hear and we are glad to be of service.>
Again, Thank You, Leah  <Your most welcome,  I hope this was helpful and best of luck with your new tank, Leslie >

FOWLR at 3 months
>Dear Marina,
>>Hello Gary! Are you ready for everyone to get back? I sure am!
>Thanks for your reply and I appreciate you taking the time to help me.
>>No problem, my pleasure, it's just taking me a bit more time than usual.
>I am happy to report that the situation has gotten much better. :)
>>Very good.
>I have had no more livestock loss and the fish all seem to be being fairly well
as they are all eating fine and do not show any signs of distress. I have been doing 20% water changes every two weeks (is this enough in terms of water changes?) and have set up my hospital tank.
>>The frequency of w/c's at this point is going to be dictated by water parameters more than anything. The tank isn't exactly well-established, so there will be periods of flux. Just be sure to have enough water on hand for a 100% water change. If you find nitrate climbing, then up the frequency to 25% per week and see how that goes.
>It is only a 10gallon setup, do you think this is too small for a hospital/quarantine tank?
>>That depends more on the fish you put in there than anything else. If they're no more than 2"-3" long it should be fine, however, it WILL need much more frequent water changes, and likely larger, than the display.
>The SeaClone skimmer turned out to be pretty useless so I have since purchased a Turboflotor 1000 but I am having some difficulty assembling it as the instructions are non-existent.
>>I am SO not surprised about the SeaClone. Adjusting/building the Turboflotor would be the realm of one of the other crewmembers here, Scott, Anthony, Jason, Kevin, Adam all, I believe, can help with that. 
>The UV light is all set up and running. The live rock is in its second week of being cured and can hopefully be introduced this week. Is it a good idea to wash the live rock with freshwater in between water changes to get all the dead matter off it?
>>No, not freshwater as in water we drink or bathe in. Fresh (or even the old) saltwater is what you want to use. A turkey baster or some such with which you can force water into a jet to blow off debris is the goal.
>I have since acquired a 5" Passer Angel and he has settled in quite well.
>>Great, I'm sure you'll love this fish! TONS of personality!
>Regards the Lionfish and his interaction with the other fish it has been very interesting.
>>Ah, yes.. you ever see that one James Bond movie? The title's lost on me right now.
>The triggers and angels all swim together but the Lion is a pure loner, nobody every comes near him except during feeding.
>>Not surprising, though they will swim about with each other in a sufficiently dimly lit system.
>Can his venomous spines damage the other fish in the tank as they all seem afraid of him?
>>Oh yes, they can sting, just like a bee.. well, maybe not exactly like a bee. They also know that he'll try to put anything in his mouth he thinks will fit (whether or not it's actually true).
>Once again thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions and I hope to hear back from you soon. 
Best Regards,
Gary Bell 
>>My pleasure, Gary. I'm glad to hear everything's going so well, and best of luck. Enjoy your fishes! Marina 

General Questions for Fish Only w/Live Rock setup
>Dear WetWebMedia Crew:
>>Hello Gary.
>First of all, I would like to thank you for putting together such a comprehensive website. Your site has been an invaluable resource as I set up my first marine tank.
>>Glad it's been of help to you, sorry for the late reply. It seems your query had been in someone's inbox for a little while, I'll help as best I can tonight.
>The tank has been up for about 3 months. My current setup is as follows:
175 gallon "reef-ready" system (Wet/Dry with overflow box and sump underneath)
SeaClone 150 Skimmer
>>I hope the SeaClone has been performing properly for you. It has proved to be, frankly, among the worst of skimmers available on the market.
>Angstrom 2537 UV Sterilizer (15W)- not yet connected
>I have started to create a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) system and currently have the following inhabitants:
5-6" Clown Trigger
4" Humu Trigger
4" Yellow Tang
4" Volitans Lionfish
6" Emperor Angel (beginning to change from Juvenile to Adult)
Currently I do not have any live rock but will adding some very shortly (45lb of Fiji pre-cured LR)
>>Mm.. you've done it a bit backwards, mate. Usually, we get the live rock cured and established, *then* stock the system. You should know that some triggers are known to bite the spines off of Lionfishes, do watch for this behavior.
>My readings are as follow: Temp: 78, SG: 1.018, Ammonia: 0, Nitrite: 0, pH: 8.1/8.2
>>Sounds good so far, especially for a new system.
>I feed a variety of frozen food including Krill, Prawns, Brine Shrimp, Silversides, and Formula 2.
>>Great, you can add Selcon soaking to those foods a few times a week and be doing quite well. Also consider clam, squid, and octopus. Personally, I would leave out the brine entirely.
>Also some fresh seaweed periodically for the yellow tang mostly. 
>>The other fish will appreciate it, and I'd offer it daily. You can switch off with that and dark greens like romaine lettuce and Nori.
>A few weeks ago the Humu started acting very unusually, he refused to eat, was breathing very rapidly, and would sit in coral he usually sleeps in all day and night. He began to lose some color and I suspected Velvet so I started a copper treatment using SeaCure Coppersafe for the entire system (I did not yet have a hospital tank).
>>Oh jeez! Velvet is nasty and virulent. I have to be blunt, this is the WORST possible manner in which to treat. It's now been ten days, so I'll wait to hear what's happened during the interim, as velvet kills VERY quickly.
>After about a week he began to show signs of recovery and seemed to get back to normal. At that exact time the Clown Trigger started showing the exact same signs so I continued the copper treatment (generally keeping the level at around .15ppm for fear of stressing the angel). The clown has since made a full recovery just as the Humu, in about the same amount of time. During this whole mess, my blue-spot grouper (about 7") who always seemed like the healthiest fish and ate voraciously simply died on day.
>>You neglected to list this fish, because it died? You must not treat the display in this manner anymore.
>Showed no signs of stress and was alive at noon, dead at 3pm (he looked very bloated). I suspect parasites because I have noticed the Angel nip at the bodies of all the other fish (the other fish actually seem to enjoy it as they do not swim away as he does it, they just patiently wait).
>>Parasites while you're treating at prophylactic levels of copper? Know that the low levels, had you actually had velvet, would have done little to stop it. You may not have had velvet. Also, you should know that if you Google this stuff, it's a potent insecticide!
>I was feeding live feeders in the very beginning (I have since stopped), simply because the lion and grouper would eat nothing else and I was tempted to see some purely predatory behavior :( I am hoping the UV light will end these concerns.
>>Doubtful, the U.V. can only deal with what's in the water column at the time. Please search our site as well as a general Google on marine parasitic diseases, Amyloodinium, Oodinium, Cryptocaryon irritans in order to better understand the lifecycles and treatments for these parasites (obligate protozoans).
>Please advise as to the best way for me to proceed as I really want this tank to be a success. I have grown very attached to all the fish, even though the clown seems to love biting me whenever my hand is in the tank. I would appreciate any advice you can offer. Thanks in advance.
Best regards,
Gary Bell
>>Gary, you MUST have a hospital tank. At this time, assuming no fish show no signs of disease, MANY large water changes are in order. Actually, considering your chosen residents, this will be the permanent order of things. If they show disease, it's best to be certain before treating, as you'll soon learn, each one requires a different treating protocol. The ONLY treatment I can recommend in the display is hyposalinity (1.007-1.010). You must have either a top notch lab grade float hydrometer or a refractometer properly calibrated to ensure you're actually at those therapeutic levels. Let me know how things are going at this late date. Marina

Setting Up A New System
Dear Crew,
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight!>
Thank you for the previous response.
Just to refresh you memory, I'm setting up a 55 gal FOWLR tank (eventually switching to reef); here is the list of equipment that I am planning to get (any comments appreciated):
AquaC Remora protein skimmer
<A great choice!>
AquaClear 70 Power filter or Fluval 304 (please help to choose between these two)
<If you're going to use mechanical filtration, I'd use the Fluval, and clean prefilters and replace media VERY frequently, or detritus can accumulate and gradually degrade water quality. Part of the reason why I favor a sump-based system, as it places less emphasis on mechanical filtration media that do trap detritus...Just my 2 cents worth>
2 Maxi Jet 1200 Powerheads for water movement (think it's enough for 55g ?)
<All depends upon the animals that you intend to keep. High current-loving SPS may need more; some LPS or soft corals maybe not appreciate the movement. Make sure that the powerheads are positioned in such a way as to converge the flow into each other for chaotic water movement>
2 200W heaters (am I better off with 2X150W ?)
<I'd go for 2 150 watters, myself>
I'm going to have 4 inches DSB and was going to put 45-55 pounds of live rock in the tank, but figured that I cannot afford MH or VHO lights at this time and will go with the simplest lights (read 60W desktop lamp) just to keep the tank illuminated somewhat (obviously I'm not going to put any
corals in until I get sufficient lighting).
<Very responsible and noble on your part!>
My question is: will the live rock survive with such low light or am I going to kill everything "live" on
that rock and better off just doing FO tank and add the live rock later when I get the lights going?
<Not really. Sure, some high light-loving animals that are attached to the rock may decline, but the majority of the micro and macrofauna will probably do okay. eventually, you'd want more light, of course.>
The second question is: If I have to get by without
the live rock for now, will the DSB have any positive effect on the tank?
<Sure- live rock can provide biodiversity, nutrient export capabilities, and supplemental food for your tank animals. The rock helps perform many of the same functions; the two act in concert to benefit the tank. However, you certainly can have one without the other!>
What's the minimum lighting that you recommend for the live rock without corals?
<Again- no real rule here. It's all about the animals and plants on the rock. If you have small SPS colonies or macroalgae attached, then lighting is a good idea! However, the majority of life on most live rock can get by with minimal lighting. In fact, you might get development of different types of life forms under minimal lighting than you will under higher light intensity...Interesting!>
Thank you kindly for you response and for maintaining such a useful website.
Peter
<Our pleasure, Peter! Best of luck with your new system! Regards, Scott F>