Tank Relocation and Reconstruction – 10/26/09
Hi there,
<<Hey there Liana>>
thank you again for your tremendous resource!
<<We are happy you like it>>
I would very much appreciate some guidance on the following:
<<Certainly>>
I have a 150 gallon FOWLR tank that I maintain where I work (family business..nursing home..tank falls
under "and other duties as assigned!")
<<Indeed…>>
It has been running for approximately 10 years, although not without mishap here and there.
<<Not uncommon… I’m not saying this is the case here, but I am not a fan of “office” tanks as they all too often suffer massive neglect>>
The stand and base are badly deteriorating, and we wanted to relocate it to the first floor of the building, so I have a few issues. Setup for this reef ready tank includes approximately 200lbs live rock, an Aqua-C 180 protein skimmer in a 30gallon sump with an Iwaki MD-70 pump for the return.
<<If this is the only source of water movement, the tank would likely benefit from the addition of a few powerheads to supplement re>>
I use only RO water. Very light fish load of a small blue chromis, a large Sailfin tang, and a large
hippo tang,
<<This tank is marginal in size, for the Hippo Tang>>
a medium percula clown, two pencil urchins and a small anthias squamipinnis.
<<Though this species can be kept singly, the tank is big enough I think (especially if you remove the Hippo Tang) that the lone Anthiine would benefit here from the addition of a couple female conspecifics>>
I have had an ongoing issue with nitrates which substantial water changes have not corrected and that I believe is being caused by the sand bed, which is 2-3 inches deep.
<<A possibility, but do also check the effluent from your RO unit (perhaps the membrane needs changing of the addition of a DI cartridge is warranted). Also, are the residents of the home allowed to feed this tank? Not a good idea…a real likelihood of overfeeding if so>>
Upon relocation, I hope to increase the bioload.
<<Mmm, I would keep this tank lightly stocked…considering>>
I have already temporarily relocated the fish and live rock to tanks in my basement until I can get the new setup going. I plan to convert the 30 gallon sump into a refugium and connect to a separate smaller sump for the protein skimmer.
<<Excellent…both the refugium and the extra system volume will be of benefit>>
I don't know if I already messed this up by scooping out the sand bed, which appears to be teaming with life and which I hate to lose, but if it is causing my nitrate problem, how do I salvage it?
<<You could try giving the substrate a rinse in some saltwater from the system, but to be thorough you will also wash away much of the biota you wish to keep. A better solution may be to “seed” the new substrate in the refugium with a just few cups of the old substrate (and ideally, let this mature for a few months before restocking the system)…and then rinse and reuse, or simply discard, the rest of it.
Thanks for your help!
Liana Reynolds
<<Happy to share… Eric Russell>>
Sorry, forgot to add… I was thinking that I would have a DSB in the refugium and keep a shallow bed in the main tank. Does this sound right? Thanks
<<Will be fine… I suggest a sugar-fine Aragonite of 4” or more depth for the DSB…and a sub-1” substrate depth in the display of something a bit more coarse. EricR>>

Saltwater tank: Clownfish color changes... new FOWLR set up, op.    7/2/09
Hi Crew,
<Tom>
First, you have a great website and I like the way you answer questions and I hope you can answer a few of mine.
Here are all the details.*
I am new to saltwater aquariums so please pardon my use of descriptions in place of the correct technical term. We recently inherited a ~35-40 gallon
tank (guy walks into a bar and says hey I am looking for someone to adopt my aquarium... and it wasn't a joke!).
<Neat!>
I has been running for 10 years so the biologicals are well established - there appear to be "tube worms" (white and stringy), bristle worms, small red anemones and slightly larger brown anemones, 40+(?) lbs of live rock,
<Do look up the word: Aiptasia>
~3 inches of sand, copepods, appears to be some red carpet-like algae on the sand, a branching filamentous algae on the coral, and a green carpet-like algae on the live rock.
<Likely almost all BGA/Cyanobacteria>
It has a closed top with two natural light fluorescents (one needs to be replaced but it is still working).
<Depending on what you want to keep, do with this system, these lamps are likely non-functional... Light up, but don't produce the kinds of light you need... I'd look into switching them out>
It is hooked up to a ~100gal Eheim filter, there is a secondary "blower" to increase the current, and there is a biological filter (spinning paper cartridge that has to be kept wet?)
<Yes... Likely a Marineland (manufacturer) BioWheel... spins...>
up in the light apparatus/tank cover. That was the basic setup when we inherited it.
When we moved it the live rock went into buckets were covered with the tank water, sediments were kept just covered with water. The tank had been in a dark room but we installed it next to a large window where it gets some sunlight. The sunlight is not direct except for an hour or so in the early morning.
<Probably okay... do look for overheating during the summer...>
After reinstalling it, the tank was cloudy and cleared up, the anemones showed some signs of damage, but they bounced back. We basically let the tank sit for 2 weeks to make sure everything was still going right.
I threw in some pelletized fist food for the anemones every other day or so, they took it in (it was neat you could see the pellet inside of them) and didn't die so I assume this was ok.... this could be a wrong assumption.
<After reading, you may decide you don't want these>
Because the donor told us the tank was good to go we went and got 2 Percula
(sp?) Clownfish, 1 Lawnmower Blenny,
<Mmm, this volume is really too small for this animal>
5 Cerith Snail, 5 Nassarius Snails, and 5 Blue leg crabs. Before putting them in I tested the pH and the salinity.
I am rather lucky to work in and have the tank in a water quality lab so we can test the parameters and know ~exactly what they are. pH was 8.3 and the salinity (I have forgotten the exact number, really sorry) was correct insofar as my Google research could tell me. The troubling thing is that we tested soluble reactive phosphorous (orthophosphate) and it came through at 512 ppm which is way too high as far as I know (250ppm seems to be what is suggested.).
<Mmm, am hoping the units are off here... even if ppb (billions) this is too much soluble HPO4>
Nitrate and ammonia will be tested tomorrow and I can send those along if it will help you diagnose the problem.
*The problem(s) *
1) The two clownfish we purchased seem to have darkened significantly since I put them in yesterday (at this time it has been 24 hrs). Is the high phosphate causing this color change?
<Mmm, this and/or other water quality aspects, yes>
Where is it coming from?
<Old substrates, trapped detritus moved along with..>
(the food I have been putting in is maybe 2-3 tsp pelletized fish food a day). There is another question like this in your website, but it seemed to be different circumstances.
2) Also, I am not sure the Clowns are eating, they don't really seem to like the pelletized fish food I have (the food indicates it is for clownfish among others), they take it in and spit it out. Some sites said this was due to the size of the food. I tried preparing it by letting it soak in some tank water then crushing it up a little bit. They seem to like this more, but they still move around the tank like they are looking for food.
<Could be the food and/or just water quality>
3) Today we noticed today that some of the anemones had retracted, which is new for them in the last 2 weeks. Is this normal?
<Mmm, is normal for reacting to deleterious conditions...>
The all-knowing internet said this was normal... or it was a result of water quality issues...
<Bingo>
or it was because of the biota. Well we didn't see any of the biota targeting the anemones (one that had retracted was way up the side of the tank away from anything except the water).
4) Let us assume that nitrate or ammonia is too high. What should I do to eliminate this - just change the water?.
<Is one approach... See our site re:
http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
the linked files above... there is a "whole bunch" one needs to know... all at once!>
5) given my setup is there a resource you can direct me to that will indicate what my water quality parameters should be?
<Yes... any good general marine aquarium reference work... or an involved peregrination front to back of our site>
The Blenny, well he seems to absolutely love the algae in the tank (there isn't a lot but there is some growth on the sides and on the pumps) and I am not too worried about him.
<Until this becomes limiting... See WWM re Salarias, Atrosalarias spp.>
Sorry for the irksome newbie questions and epic email, but I have done some research and now need help with the putting two and two together to know how to fix the problems.
<Ahh, no worries. We are glad to help all earnest individuals...>
I really don't want to lose the two clownfish... I picked them because they were advertised as "hardy" and therefore, I hoped, a good starter fish.
Thanks
Thomas
<Do keep reading, accumulating your questions, concerns for our discussion.
Bob Fenner>

Re: Proposed (240gal display + 160gal sump) FOWLR 4/19/09
Good Day WWM Crew/Scott V,
<Hello Adriel, sorry about the previous email. A cat ran across the keyboard, typing an interesting response and sending the thing!>
Thanks your advice!
<Very welcome.>
In any case, I think I'll go with a 84l"x20w"12h" sump+refugium with a DSB.
Should reduce about 80gal weight right there. The LFS here has mentioned that they've installed 260gal tanks in similar apartments. My building is just 2 years old, newly constructed, but nevertheless I will be contacting the construction company for their opinion.
<Good.>
I would like your opinion on skimmers for the setup. I have an Octopus 200NW and a Deltec APF 600. Was thinking about using these together in the sump. Would this be enough? Could they be placed side by side?
<I think this will be fine for skimming, sure place them together.>
I currently have the following to be shifted to the proposed tank, Blue girdle angel 4" Blue Face angel 3" (but they aren't fighting at all:-)
Moon beam dwarf angel 1 1/2Anthias (dunno which one) Leopard Ornate Wrasse 2"Anampses Lineatus 2"False Percula 2"
I plan to add a Flame Angel, Orange Shoulder Tang, Orchid Dottyback, and not much else, maybe a few gobies.
<Sounds fine, but will put you at or near your stocking limit.>
Would like to keep smaller fish in this one. Really want to keep a Regal Angel too. (I know, I have the book :-) ......)
<Highly dependent on collection, how/where.>
Any further suggestions that you may have for the setup would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks again, and I really appreciate the effort you've taken!
Adriel
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Proposed (240gal display + 160gal sump) FOWLR 4/26/09
Good day WWM Crew/ Scott V,
<Hello Adriel!>
Thanks Scott for all the help!!
<Very welcome!>
I "think" I've more or less got it down...
I have couple of questions regarding water circulation. (I've used only power heads thus far, and am now entering into the expensive side of the hobby :-)
<Uh-oh.>
Is it worth going with a wave maker in a FOWLR???
<It can function just fine, worth it? Not for me.>
The power heads don't seem to keep detritus in suspension and was hoping that these would do the trick. I can't seem to make up my mind between the following,
1) Tunze Turbelle Stream 6125 x22) Tunze Turbelle Stream 6105 x2 with Multicontroller3) Tunze Wavebox 6212 x1
These are pretty pricey, so a good decision would be invaluable.
<Both can work, but option #1 is an amazing setup. If you have the funds and want to spend it you can't go wrong.>
Would any of the above configurations would be enough to be the sole source of circulation in the tank, apart from the main pump (which isn't too powerful) ?
<Oh yes.>
Thanks for your time!!!!
Adriel
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Flow Question And Stocking Level, 20 gal. FOWLR  2/16/09
> Good evening crew!
<Hello Keith>
> I have a 20 gal long tank. It has been a FOWLR tank for over a  year. It has 30 lbs. of Aragamax sand and 20 lbs. of Fiji LR.
> Current flow/filtration is a 200GPH Penguin BioWheel with an extra  media basket with LR rubble (which is actually better than a  basket as it separates the rubble into "grids" for better circulation/flow) and the standard pad/carbon cartridge for the Penguin models. I also have a SeaClone protein skimmer with a Maxijet 1200.
>> So I have 3 questions: I recently added a pulsing Xenia stalk and a small button mushroom. The Xenia is towards the top and the mushroom towards the bottom. Both look great, but it has only been a day or two. With a tank as shallow as a 20 gal long (12") do I have adequate flow already?
<Very close as the Penguin has a guaranteed flow rate of 200gph.>
I have my LR set up in a way that is at least 2 inches away from any of the tank sides and have it split into two cavernous islands with lots of ways in and out even for my 2 False Percula Clownfish. The HOB and the HOB skimmer are on opposite sides of the tank and the feather dusters seem to get quite a bit of movement at the bottom of the tank. I experimented with a Koralia nano and then again with a Aquaclear 201 powerhead (not at the same time) in the skimmer corner but it seemed the flow was a bit of a whirlpool even with the Powerhead adjusted very low.
><How to things look with just using the Penguin for water movement?>
> 2nd question: Would you recommend continuing the use of the stock filter cartridge or would a second media basket be better for just running carbon?
><In smaller tanks such as yours, I'd opt to use Purigen, Chemi Pure, or Chem Sorb in the media basket and just use the stock cartridge as a mechanical filter. Will be much better at nutrient removal than carbon alone. I do not know how large the media basket is, so you will need to see what would fit in there.>
> And last but not least: I have the 2 False Perculas, but I also have a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs, 3 Nassarius snails, 4 Astrea snails and a Emerald Crab that actually came with the LR.
> Is there anything else I should have (more snails of some kind for example).
<I'd put 5 or 6 more Blue Leg Hermit Crabs in there. Keep that Emerald Crab well fed or your shrimp may become a meal.>
Can a Neon Goby or a Dottyback be added or would you stick to just the 2 Percs?
<A Neon Goby or similar small size fish could be added. I would go with nothing larger.>
I do plan on adding other corals slowly as I watch how the tank matures even more.
<Do research here before adding as there are not too many corals that will do well with your lighting.>
> I am sorry if all of this info is already available. I did search quite awhile...I am here for days before I add/change anything in any of my tanks LOL.
><Good, reading will be your best teacher.>
> Oh and tank param.s are ph 8.2, calc 400, Alk 9, temp 77F, 65 watt PC 50/50 bulb, ammonia and nitrite 0, nitrate less than .5, and SG is 1.023.
><Sounds good. James (Salty Dog)>
> Keith  

Equipment choices on a new system. 2/15/09
Hello WWM Crew,
<Hello Corey.>
I'm setting up a new FOWLR and Hardy Inverts tank. I haven't kept aquaria in almost 20 years and I know the hobby has changed a lot in the meantime.
<Indeed!>
So I'm doing as much research as possible (Fenner, Michael, Paletta, misc. forums). I think I've got my equipment list and livestock desires together and wondered if you could give any suggestions on it. Picked up a used 65G (used for freshwater) that I've cleaned (vinegar) and disinfected (peroxide). I'll be adding approximately 50 lbs. of Fiji live rock and about 2" of live sand. An Eheim Pro II 2026 or 2028 (running with carbon, and anything else you'd recommend.) Two Hydor Koralia 1 powerheads on a simple wavemaker, and an Aqua C Remora Pro skimmer. For the lighting I
was initially going to get a Current USA Sundial 156 watt T5 fixture (love the integrated timers and moon lights), but am now leaning towards the 36" 234 watt Nova Extreme Pro as I want to shoot for a BTA at some point (is this enough light?).
<Should be. The anemone should settle higher up in the tank with this lighting.>
As for livestock I plan to have (over time of course) an Ocellaris Clown, a Yellow Tang, some sort of dwarf angel, and a couple of Flasher Wrasse (undecided), a Cleaner Shrimp, and a BTA for the clown (this is the whole point of my system actually and I know lighting is crucial). I'd love to add a refugium at some point so that I can support copepods for a Mandarin, and macroalgae. Is this too much of a bioload?
<Not from a bioload perspective, but I must say I am not a fan of keeping any tang in a 36" long tank. These fish appreciate and thrive with space to swim.>
Thanks for all the information you folks have shared already.
Corey
<Welcome Corey, one more point of input on this. With your skimmer and live rock the only benefit the canister will give you is running carbon. If you feel the need to do so, you can do this far cheaper for now with a little power filter. Later, when you set up the refugium you can incorporate a little filtration area in which to run the carbon. Scott V.>