FAQs about Fishes and Invertebrates, aka FOWLR
Marine Systems Themselves 4
Related Articles: Fishes and Invertebrates Marine Set-ups,
Fish-Only Marine Set-up, Reef Systems, Coldwater
Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems, Plumbing Marine
Systems, Refugiums, Marine
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Guides,
Related FAQs: FOWLR Set-Ups 1, FOWLR Set-Ups 2, FOWLR Set-Ups 3, FOWLR Set-Ups 5, & FOWLR 1, FOWLR 2, FOWLR
3, FOWLR
Lighting, FOWLR Filtration,
FOWLR Skimmers, FOWLR Livestocking, FOWLR Maintenance, FOWLR Disease, LR Lighting,
Fish-Only Marine
Set-ups, Reef
Systems, Coldwater Systems,
Small Systems, Large Systems, Marine System
Plumbing, Biotopic
presentations,
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Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1:
Invertebrates, Algae
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums
Book 2: Fishes
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New
Print and
eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner |
Re: 55gal FOWLR setup 11/12/08 Going to
get the book today, but I do have one more question I couldn't find
the answer to on WWM. When I first put water into the new tank, can I
mix the water and salt in the tank or should I do it in a bucket?
<You can mix it in the tank if you wish.> Also, should I already
have the live rock and live sand in the tank when I add the water and
salt to it (if I mix it in the tank) or should I add the rock and sand
after the salt mixes with the water? <After.> Sorry for all the
Questions, I just really want to get this up and running so I can add
fish in a month or two. Thanks! <Welcome, you will love the book!
Scott V.> Angela <Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Tank Size... And Maybe a
Puffer....12/2/08 Thanks so much Scott for all the advise.
<My great pleasure.> We have decided to go with the 300 ( i know
shockingly small) but we have a plan. <Good, the way to do it!>
So once the 300 is built into the wall downstairs which would be by new
years we are guessing. We have a tall narrow 400 gallon as well that we
got used, but still holds water etc.. What we're doing is splitting
up the fish so that they go into the two tanks (some in the 300 and
some in the 400) plus the 400 is tall enough to place a "hood
style" table top on it, so that we can use it in the same room as
a BAR!!! haha... thanks again for all your help. Every fish is doing
GREAT, even though the blue line is still the same color. <Sounds
like a good plan, quite a bit of aquaria in one house, nice! Scott
V.>
Help With Plans to Upgrade My Marine Tank (More
Reading/Research Required) -- 07/11/08 Hello WWM crew, <<Hi
Michelle>> I have been considering upgrading my tank and would
like some advice. <<Alrighty>> I currently have a year old
75gal with about 2-3in crushed coral, <<Not the best
medium'¦and at this depth. Is this meant to be a DSB? Better
to go with a much finer substrate if so>> 90lbs live rock, a
14" snowflake eel, 8" Volitans lionfish, some crabs and
snails, a BTA, and a LTA (I know I shouldn't mix those two, but
mixing them was by accident, my LTA had disappeared for a few days
after being attacked by a starfish, who I no longer have. I was upset
about my assumed loss and got a new anemone, the BTA. After a couple
days the LTA reappeared. They are on opposite ends of the tank and have
had no problems yet.) <<Mmm, okay'¦and as you seem to
have surmised'¦'way too much' life in this
tank>> I also have a nice harvest of two different types of
Caulerpa growing on my live rock. <<Can'¦or more
likely'¦will be trouble. You may want to consider getting rid
of this now. Caulerpa can quickly overtake/overgrow a
system'¦maybe not so much a concern in a FOWLR tank, but
unsightly nonetheless. Removal can be next to impossible once
established'¦and even thinning of this single-cell algae can
be problematic as 'breaking off' of the runners releases
noxious chemicals>> My water parameters have been very stable for
a while now. I would very much like to upgrade my tank to maybe a
150-200gal. <<I think this is a necessity'¦considering
your livestock>> So I have the following questions for you:
<<Okay>> 1. Which size would you recommend for my current
tank mates? <<Is an old cliché, but
really'¦bigger the better. If you have the means, go with the
larger tank>> 2. What is the best way to properly set up the new
tank? <<I need you to be more specific'¦else read here
and among the associated links
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishinvsetup.htm) >> I would like to
put it where my current tank is. <<Again'¦specifics.
I'm happy to help, but I need more info to go on>> 3. I
should transfer my water to the new tank to avoid cycling, correct?
<<This will 'help' with the Nitrogen cycle,
yes'¦but will not necessarily eliminate it>> 4. What is
the best way to move my inhabitants to the new tank? <<Avoid the
use of nets (except maybe for 'herding') and scoop them in to
plastic containers for moving to the new tank>> 5. Can I
immediately put my inhabitants into the new tank? <<Some say you
can'¦I say no'¦ Best to let the new system run at
least a day while monitoring/testing to make sure nitrogenous compounds
are not building/accumulating. Even with the transfer of
rock/substrate/water from your old tank there is a chance of the new
tank going through a 'cycle''¦if only from the
'disturbance' of the old media>> 6. Given my current tank
mates, when I do upgrade the tank, are there any other fish species
could I add with them? <<Perhaps'¦but this will need to
be large enough not to be eaten by the Lionfish while not so aggressive
as to pick on either the Lionfish or the Eel. And something with the
same environmental preferences as both (i.e. -- low light/low
activity). Perhaps a suitably sized grouper species'¦although
many of these have the capacity to outgrow even a 200g tank>> 7.
I know you suggest not mixing corals with anemones due to chemical
warfare. Are there any soft corals, maxima clam or compatible inverts I
could mix with the species I have? <<There is more at issue here
than the Anemones, Michelle. The presence of the two Caulerpa species
in the display is a real problem re keeping any corals'¦and
the fishes you have are not suited to 'high intensity lighting'
type environments. Obviously, with the presence of the Anemones, the
latter is already a problem and you will hopefully address this with
some caves/overhangs to allow the Lionfish to escape the bright lights.
The former, in my opinion, should also be addressed with the removal of
the Caulerpa. With this in mind, some Faviids (Caulastrea, Favia,
Favites, Goniastrea, Montastrea, etc.) placed well away from the
Anemones and each other to preclude any physical contact from sweeper
tentacles will be less problematic than more noxious/chemically armed
so-called soft corals here>> 8. I know I will also have to
upgrade my skimmer, what's a good size/brand for the new tank?
<<My current fave is Euro-Reef'¦but AquaC, Tunze,
H&S, (some others), are good choices too. Have a look at their
offerings and go by the manufacturer's recommendation on
size'¦and feel free to come back to me to discuss these
further>> 9. Any advice for gear, plumbing, setup?
<<Lots'¦what do you have in mind?>> 10. Any other
advice for upgrading a tank? <<Reading/research'¦make a
plan>> Anything else I should know? <<Much to impart here
my friend'¦but you need to know 'what to
ask''¦ Read here
(http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm) and among the links in
blue. Then come back with your specific questions> Sorry for all the
questions, I am just very afraid that I will do it wrong and lose all
my inhabitants. <<No worries re the questions'¦and I do
empathize>> I would appreciate any advice you can give to help me
do this correctly. I do have a RO/DI filtration system set up and mix
all my water myself; I use Instant Ocean salt mix. Thank you in advance
for your help. Michelle <<Consider my comments'¦read-up
where indicated'¦and then let's continue to chat. Regards,
Eric Russell>>
FOWLR Set up/Planning 7/7/08 Good day!
<Hello Joe!> I am a total newbie as it relates to saltwater
aquariums and have spent the last week or so plowing through
articles and FAQs on your site. It has been absolutely great. I
really did not have a clue how little critical information I
actually knew until I started reading more. <Great!> In case
you are interested in the level of knowledge one can gain, or not
gain, by culling your resources as a primary learning tool you may
be interested in noting my plans. While I feel I have learned an
incredible amount from your site, only someone smarter than I can
actually pass judgment on the quality of my learning. <Hmm,
perhaps more experienced.> There is no need to post this in the
FAQ, but I thought you may either appreciate (lament) the success
(failure) of the site to educate me. <All (coherent)
conversations are posted.> After two weeks of pouring through
your articles and FAQs, I have come up with the following plans for
my transition from a small fresh water system to a 175g FOWLR.
<Congratulations on the swap.> I bought the whole shooting
match (tank/hood/base/equip) on eBay for $1300 and I am likely the
definition of the ignorant buyer. <We all end up with gear we
wish had not been bought.> God, I hope this can come together!
My son and I are as pumped as can be! Sometimes I can't sleep;
planning things in my head. Thanks! Joe Relevant facts about the
attached drawing: Goal (from a totally newbie perspective, for
sure) is lots of pretty rock, about a half-dozen or more pretty
fish, an anemone or two for the fish to interact with (I've
since learned these are not for beginners) use of LR, LS and
under-tank DSB to keep water conditioned properly. Any necessary
support creatures would be added as needed. How is that for
simpleton goals? <Sounds fine.> 175g main tank with a custom
made 40g refugium/DSB/skimmer under the tank. Main Tank: Oceanic
175g bowfront main tank with ½' LS bed because I do
not want to build a full DSB in the main tank. I kept to only
½' to keep the aerobic activity in the bed. {WWM
advice} Main tank to use a mix of base rock and plenty of Fiji LR
keeping clearance near walls for cleaning. {WWM advice} Water
movement from a custom built manifold plus the two built-in
reef-ready water jets (or whatever they are really called). <I
believe you are referring to LocLine, fine product.> {WWM
advice} Manifold fed by T4 1250 gph pump while reef-ready jets fed
by Rio 700 gph pump. <Looking at the diagram, I would limit your
outputs to four ½' with this pump, but the beauty of
PVC is cheap, easy experimentation. Also, do consider running your
T4 on a dedicated closed loop, your overflow (I assume they are
dual 1'?) will not handle the flow of this pump. This leaves
the Rio as your sump return, just right for these drains.> Water
drainage from two-reef-ready overflow pipes (I'm a little
worried about the flow-rate of these based on a WWM warning!).
<They can flow enough to support a system, just not anywhere
near what is claimed.> Lighting TBD but the setup I bought has a
dual 36' light fixture. <This will be a determining factor
re an anemone.> Refugium: Refugium under tank built upon a
plain-Jane 40 gallon glass tank and partitions for bubble control
and settling chamber. {WWM advice} I would like to understand the
fluid dynamics of the baffles a bit more here but I'm sure that
will come with more research. <Research and seeing it in action.
Just remember water will always find it's way where gravity
pulls it. Do check out the article on pressure locking sump
baffles, this will allow you to adjust if need be:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
.> Use of a 6' DSB with a 5' base of fine aragonite then
a 1' layer of LS. {WWM advice} <You can skip the live sand,
it will populate off the rock in time.> Heaters in the refugium.
<Fine.> EuroReef skimmer in the refugium. <A good
choice.> LR, critters and plants/algae stuff that I need to read
more about in refugium. {WWM advice} Need to learn more here but
that too will come. <You will learn much more in the
process.> Lighting TBD but the cabinet has two fluorescent bulbs
mounted in it. May not need to go overboard here. <Not for a
FOWLR, again, the anemone is a different story.> Possible
retired equipment based on WWM advice that was included in my lot
but I may be able to eBay includes MR-400 wet/dry, extra
powerheads, UV sterilizer and 1/3hp Cyclone chiller with digital
temperature control. <Do hold on to all of this. The powerheads
and chiller in particular may come in handy.> Quarantine Tank:
The 10g FW tank I was going to sell will be used for a quarantine
tank instead. Water Prep: I've read about water treatment using
RO/DI to prevent phosphates from the water source but have no idea
what that means. <
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm> I will research it
more. The lot I bought includes a Deionizing filter kit and five
filters but I'll have to research more on this whole topic.
<Sounds like a full blown RO/DI unit, a good choice.>
Cycling: I've read the process for rocks only first, cleaning,
cycling, adding LS, then livestock etc. This could take the rest of
the summer, but I am excited. <Slower is better here.> Lots
of advice here on specific species. Thanks! <Welcome.> P.s.
The refugium and manifold are what I am building, not bought from
eBay. <Sounds good, keep reading and learning! Looking forward
to hearing of your future success, Scott V.> |
Re: FOWLR Setup W/Anemone 7/10/08 Thank you
for your thoughts Scott. <Welcome.> Despite the desire to
get started right away, upfront design will hopefully pay off in
the long-run and your suggestions will undoubtedly make it a
better system. <Looking before leaping, careful planning will
indeed payoff. Do it right, do it once!> The crew's time
answering non-stop newbie questions is really appreciated. The
pressure-fit baffles suggestion could save a lot of rework since
I am new to refugium design. Once the design is confirmed to be
correct, I can fix them permanently. <A nice way to do it,
movable baffles until you are happy, then permanently adhere. You
may find the movable baffles are so nice you will leave it that
way!> Two follow-up questions... 1) On the dedicated
close-loop for the T4, is the return simply a loop over the side
of the tank? <Basically the same return manifold you had on
your original diagram. As for the intake, yes, over the side of
the tank with a strainer. You will need to prime this much of the
same way as most canister filters, leave an open PVC T at where
the intake comes over the top of the tank, add water until the
line is full, cap off the T and start the pump. Do be sure to put
the strainer low enough into the water to stay below the
waterline during any tank maintenance. This will eliminate the
need to re-prime every time you do a water change.> I am not
really in a position to be drilling the tank. For such a simple
question, I've had a hard time finding any web advice on this
or a dedicated product other than a very expensive overflow box.
An expensive add-on overflow box (several hundred $) is out of
the budget for now. <At the risk of being self serving, do
check out Glass-Holes.com (my site). This can be done much
cheaper, building your own box is also quite easy. The drill bits
are so inexpensive I strongly encourage you to consider this if
you are in the very least DIY inclined. Even diamond coated
Dremel bits will work.> The wife is already wondering how long
the new kitchen cabinets will have to wait due to this. <Been
there my friend!> 2) I'm still unsure about lighting. Some
articles here say NO is the way to go and avoid metal halide,
others say a 28"h tank is too deep for NO. <It is if you
want light loving livestock in the bottom half. NO can be done,
depending on livestock and placement, but it does require quite a
few bulbs and is not used too much anymore. Do consider the new
HO T5 bulbs also.> Some of the FAQs are old so the state of
the art may have changed. There is a lot of conflicting advice to
the new reader. Maybe the nuances resolve those inconsistencies
but it is hard for newbies to resolve. <I understand, you seem
to read a lot of advice, all situation specific, so each is a bit
different.> It seems through reading newer FAQs that a mix of
HQI and actinic might be needed for anemones in 28" of
water. <If you have any hopes of the anemone living towards
the bottom of the tank (it will go where it wants to), halides
are going to be your best bet for this. Some 250 watt lights will
do the trick with a 10000K bulb. With the higher Kelvin bulbs you
lose usable light, you will want to keep all that you can with
this depth in a tank. Also, do be aware that anemones are
notorious for moving around, stinging, killing other corals, and
eating smaller fish as well. If you wish to convert this tank to
a full reef down the road, do check out the link below and
related FAQ's to know what you are getting into. Have fun,
Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
------------- Previous Note, slightly edited ------------- Goal
(from a totally newbie perspective, for sure) is lots of pretty
rock, about a half-dozen or more pretty fish, an anemone for the
fish to interact with (I've since learned these are not for
beginners) use of LR, LS and under-tank DSB to keep water
conditioned properly. Any necessary support creatures would be
added as needed. 175g main tank with a custom made 50g
refugium/DSB/skimmer under the tank. Main Tank: Oceanic 175g
bowfront main tank with ½" LS bed because I do
not want to build a full DSB in the main tank. I kept to only
½" to keep the aerobic activity in the bed. Main
tank to use a mix of base rock and plenty of Fiji LR keeping
clearance near walls for cleaning. Water movement from a custom
built manifold plus the two built-in reef-ready overflow boxes
with LocLines. Manifold fed by T4 1250 gph pump while
overflow-box LocLines are fed by Rio 700 gph pump. <Scott V. -
Looking at the diagram, I would limit your outputs to four
½" with this pump, but the beauty of PVC is
cheap, easy experimentation. Also, do consider running your T4 on
a dedicated closed loop, your overflow (I assume they are dual
1"?) will not handle the flow of this pump. This leaves the
Rio as your sump return, just right for these drains.>
Lighting TBD (see question above). < Scott V. - This will be a
determining factor re an anemone.> Refugium: Refugium under
tank built upon a plain 50 gallon glass tank and partitions for
bubble control and settling chamber. {WWM advice} I would like to
understand the fluid dynamics of the baffles a bit more here but
I'm sure that will come with more research. <Scott V. -
Research and seeing it in action. Just remember water will always
find it's way where gravity pulls it. Do check out the
article on pressure locking sump baffles, this will allow you to
adjust if need be:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
.> Use of a 6" DSB with a 5" base of fine aragonite
then a 1" layer of LS. <Scott V. - You can skip the live
sand, it will populate off the rock in time.> Heaters in the
refugium. <Fine.> EuroReef skimmer in the refugium. <A
good choice.> LR, critters and plants/algae stuff that I need
to read more about in refugium. {WWM advice} Need to learn more
here but that too will come. <You will learn much more in the
process.> Refugium Lighting TBD but the cabinet has two
fluorescent bulbs mounted in it. May not need to go overboard
here. Possible retired equipment based on WWM advice that was
included in my lot but I may be able to eBay includes MR-400
wet/dry, extra powerheads, UV sterilizer and 1/3hp Cyclone
chiller with digital temperature control. <Do hold on to all
of this. The powerheads and chiller in particular may come in
handy.> Quarantine Tank: The 10g FW tank I was going to sell
will be used for a quarantine tank instead. Water Prep: I've
read about water treatment using RO/DI to prevent phosphates from
the water source but have no idea what that means. <
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm> I will research
it more. The lot I bought includes a deionizing filter kit and
five filters but I'll have to research more on this whole
topic. <Sounds like a full blown RO/DI unit, a good
choice.> Cycling: I've read the process for rocks only
first, cleaning, cycling, adding LS, then livestock etc. This
could take the rest of the summer, but I am excited. <Slower
is better here.> Lots of advice here on specific species.
Thanks! <Welcome.>
|
Scott, Re: FOWLR set up planning 7/11/08
Scott, you've convinced me to give the through-wall a shot to
get the extra flow needed for the closed-loop T4 pump. <OK,
definitely worth it!> I will leave the built-in ones for the Rio
and refugium. Not sure if I will drill myself (I am a DIY'er)
or go to an insured glass shop since this would void the warranty.
<Glass shops generally will not guarantee anything.> Having
only a very few opportunities to rework once complete, I appreciate
your advice before I fill-er-up. <Tis the idea, plan now,
don't pay later.> See attached jpeg... 1) Regarding the
overflows with through-wall bulkheads, to you think it would be too
much if I mounted them in the same corner overflow areas as the
built-in ones? Assuming there is mounting room of course. <A
point of clarification to avoid confusion. For your closed loop you
will want to drill a good bit (at least 6-8' or so) below the
waterline outside of the overflow boxes. This is going to act as an
intake for the pump, not an overflow. Regarding the overflows,
since you are drilling, do consider adding some more drains inside
the boxes to feed your sump. Right now you likely have two 1'
drains, the boxes themselves can handle much more flow than this.
You can simply drill through the back inside the box and
drastically increase your flow capacity into the sump. An 1.5'
bulkhead inside each box will increase your future flow capacity
and safety margin by 1500 GPH or so.> 2) Do you think it would
be safer to run the new overflow returns into the protein skimmer
area of the sump and draw both pump supplies from there or go
directly into the T4? <I would not run both pumps through the
sump. Too much flow can be tough to manage. You will likely have
issues with bubbles in your return. Use the Rio as your sump return
and drill an intake for your T4 as a dedicated closed loop. You can
run the closed loop intake described above directly into the
T4.> Thanks
Joe
<Welcome, talk again soon, Scott V.> |
|
My New In-Wall FOWLR System! -- 04/21/08
Hello everyone at WWM!! <<Hi there, Art!>> I am
currently in the final planning stages of setting up my 125G
"in-wall" tank (picture attached).
<<Neat'¦though speaking from experience (my current
system is my second 'in-wall' system), I think you will
find you wished you put some access doors above the tank on the
'front' side. Keeping the front glass clean from
'behind' is a real pain'¦and may even become
impossible if corals are kept/grow large>> The R/O water is
currently mixing in the tank with the salt and 135 lbs of live rock
will be arriving on Thursday. <<Mmm, a lot of
rock'¦do think to keep an 'open' design to allow
the fishes room to swim>> I also have a 55G corner tank with
live rock, which was cycled with a protein skimmer and water
changes about a year ago (still do periodic water changes). After
the tank was cycled I read some information that makes me question
how I should cycle this larger tank. <<Oh?>> For my
corner tank I ran my skimmer from the moment the rock was
introduced, but I read somewhere (I know it's not very helpful
when I can't recall from where.... but now it's at the back
of my head) that the protein skimmer shouldn't be turned on
until your ammonia levels sky-rocket. <<I
disagree'¦it is my opinion/preference to run the skimmer
from day-1. Letting Ammonia and Nitrite levels 'sky-rocket'
as you say only further harms the emergent life on the rock>>
I don't know if this is correct or not, but to me, it
doesn't seem very beneficial to all of the microorganisms that
make their home in the rock.
<<Indeed'¦macro-organisms too>> I will also be
adding some rock from my sump/fuge along with that "bacteria
in a bottle". What is your opinion about cycling a tank with
the protein skimmer at onset? <<Is my preference to do
so>> Now here is my other question. I have neglected, or
better yet put aside, my stocking list for this tank, because of
all of the issues associated with carpentry, plumbing, and everyday
hassles that come with building a new tank. <<I
see'¦and is understandable. But do give this aspect of the
planning process its due diligence>> From the beginning I
knew it was going to be a FOWLR tank, my 55G Reef has cute small
fish that get along with coral, but until recently I have decided
to keep more aggressive larger fish in the 125G since I now have
space for them. <<Mmm'¦better than the 55g for
sure>> Here goes: 1 Humu Humu Trigger 1 Niger Trigger
<<Even at 125-gallons, this tank is not really big enough for
this fish in the long-term'¦and your stock-list should be
with consideration for the long-term>> 1 Volitans -or-
Radiata Lionfish <<Not a good choice with the
triggers>> 1 Lyretail Wrasse <<Would do better as a
trio (a male and two females) in my opinion>> 1 Yellow Tang 2
Maroon Clowns <<These will likely claim a good-size portion
of the tank as their own>> OK. So this is my dream list. I
have a friend that has successfully kept a Niger and Humu in the
same (150 G) tank for about a year with no problems, <<A
'year ' is neither 'long-term' nor a measurement of
'success'>> but as I have read these fish aren't
very predictable in the temperament department, so I know it's
not a guarantee. <<Will be trouble sooner or
later'¦for sure>> Seeing as how all of these fish
are aggressive, I think it's a gamble either way to go with one
or the other, but I would like to hear an expert's opinion.
<<Aggressive fishes or not'¦you can't just lump
any species together and hope for the best. Compatibility is still
an issue'¦and 'just' getting along or just
'existing' in the same tank will manifest in social and
health issues. I recommend you pick a 'show fish' you would
like and that is suitable to your tank size and then research/build
a stock-list of 'suitable tankmates' around this
fish>> As for the Lionfish, I much prefer the look and size
of the Radiata to the Volitans, but from what I've seen at LFS
they are not as easy to come by. <<Can likely be
'ordered'>> What do you recommend? <<Volitans
is 'my' favorite (the black color phase), but go with your
fave'¦just not with the triggers>> Do you think the
Maroons would be able to hold their own in this tank? <<A
very aggressive Clownfish species'¦if not small enough to
be swallowed'¦likely, yes>> I currently have a
Maroon in "time out" aka my sump/fuge because what was
once a pretty friendly going fish, turned into a big bully from one
day to the next. <<Not atypical>> I would most likely
introduce the clown fish first, to give them the alpha seat, and
then the other more aggressive fish at the same time, if you
approve of my list. <<You have my opinions thus>> I
have a Skimmer rated for 250G because I know larger fish are pretty
messy eaters. <<Yes, I see it'¦looks to be a Berlin
HOT skimmer. These can work 'fair''¦but usually
need continual fiddling/adjustment'¦I would opt for a
better and more efficient make/model. I also see you have installed
check-valves on your pump return lines...a source of trouble. Best
to design the plumbing such that these devices are not
necessary>> If there is any more room in this tank I would
like to put some smaller (about the same size or smaller as the
maroons) aggressive "dither" fish to add some contrast
and bring out the larger fish, but if I'm overstocked already
then I'll just stop now. <<Mmm'¦not so much
overstocked as mis-stocked>> Thank you in advance for taking
the time to answer my question! <<Is my pleasure to
share>> Your site really is a godsend! <<A collective
effort'¦we're happy you find it of use>> Art
Perez, 20 California
<<Eric Russell'¦South Carolina>> |
Re: My New In-Wall FOWLR System! -- 04/23/08 Thanks for
the quick reply, <<Quite welcome Art'¦and thank
you for writing back as it gives me the opportunity to correct a
mistake I made during our previous correspondence which I will
explain shortly>> I am taking your advice and have decided
not to add the Niger or the Lionfish. <<For the
best'¦considering>> I love the shape and color of
the Lyretail Wrasse, so having 3 sounds like a good idea to me!
Will I have enough room in the long run? If so, my only problem
regarding this species is being able to find females. Do I just
purchase 3 similar sized specimens and hope they are all females
and the dominant one becomes male? <<This is where I made
an error in my reading of your previous query, Art. My eyes saw
you had written Lyretail Wrasse, but my brain processed Lyretail
'Anthias.' Even if three of this Thalassoma species of
wrasse were to get along (not a likely occurrence), your 125g
tank is too small for three very aggressive, foot-long,
fast-movers. My apologies for the error>> I have made some
revisions to my list. Here goes: 2 Maroon Clowns 1 Purple
Pseudochromis 1 Yellow Tang 3 Lunare Wrasse <<Should be
amended to '1'>> 3 Yellowtail Damsels 1 Snowflake
Eel Do you think an angel of either Annularis or Imperator would
be a good "show fish" for this tank? Or would it be
harassed by the Tang and the wrasse? <<Spectacular fishes
for sure'¦and either one would be 'King Fish' in
this tank'¦but either one would require a tank at least
double the size of yours in the long term. Best to keep looking
for another 'show fish'>> As for the order I was
thinking of putting the clowns, Pseudochromis, and damsels in at
the same time, and let them establish themselves.
<<Probably fine>> Then put the eel and the Angel, (if
suitable) and finally add the wrasses and the tang. Should the
order be altered? <<Since the Angel is out (at least these
two species), the Thalassoma Lunare should go in last>>
Thanks in advance!! <<Always welcome'¦ And
again'¦sorry for the earlier mis-communication.
EricR>>
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Small Marine Aquariums
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