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FAQs about Fishes and Invertebrates, aka FOWLR Marine Systems Themselves 4

Related Articles: Fishes and Invertebrates Marine Set-ups, Fish-Only Marine Set-up, Reef Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems, Plumbing Marine SystemsRefugiumsMarine Biotope, Marine LandscapingFishwatcher's Guides

Related FAQs: FOWLR Set-Ups 1, FOWLR Set-Ups 2, FOWLR Set-Ups 3, FOWLR Set-Ups 5, & FOWLR 1, FOWLR 2, FOWLR 3, FOWLR Lighting, FOWLR Filtration, FOWLR Skimmers, FOWLR Livestocking, FOWLR Maintenance, FOWLR Disease, LR Lighting, Fish-Only Marine Set-ups, Reef Systems, Coldwater Systems, Small Systems, Large Systems, Marine System Plumbing Biotopic presentations

 

Small Marine Aquariums
Book 1: Invertebrates, Algae
New Print and eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums
B
ook 2: Fishes
New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
New Print and eBook on Amazon:
by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Re: 55gal FOWLR setup 11/12/08 Going to get the book today, but I do have one more question I couldn't find the answer to on WWM. When I first put water into the new tank, can I mix the water and salt in the tank or should I do it in a bucket? <You can mix it in the tank if you wish.> Also, should I already have the live rock and live sand in the tank when I add the water and salt to it (if I mix it in the tank) or should I add the rock and sand after the salt mixes with the water? <After.> Sorry for all the Questions, I just really want to get this up and running so I can add fish in a month or two. Thanks! <Welcome, you will love the book! Scott V.> Angela <Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Tank Size... And Maybe a Puffer....12/2/08 Thanks so much Scott for all the advise. <My great pleasure.> We have decided to go with the 300 ( i know shockingly small) but we have a plan. <Good, the way to do it!> So once the 300 is built into the wall downstairs which would be by new years we are guessing. We have a tall narrow 400 gallon as well that we got used, but still holds water etc.. What we're doing is splitting up the fish so that they go into the two tanks (some in the 300 and some in the 400) plus the 400 is tall enough to place a "hood style" table top on it, so that we can use it in the same room as a BAR!!! haha... thanks again for all your help. Every fish is doing GREAT, even though the blue line is still the same color. <Sounds like a good plan, quite a bit of aquaria in one house, nice! Scott V.>

Help With Plans to Upgrade My Marine Tank (More Reading/Research Required) -- 07/11/08 Hello WWM crew, <<Hi Michelle>> I have been considering upgrading my tank and would like some advice. <<Alrighty>> I currently have a year old 75gal with about 2-3in crushed coral, <<Not the best medium'¦and at this depth. Is this meant to be a DSB? Better to go with a much finer substrate if so>> 90lbs live rock, a 14" snowflake eel, 8" Volitans lionfish, some crabs and snails, a BTA, and a LTA (I know I shouldn't mix those two, but mixing them was by accident, my LTA had disappeared for a few days after being attacked by a starfish, who I no longer have. I was upset about my assumed loss and got a new anemone, the BTA. After a couple days the LTA reappeared. They are on opposite ends of the tank and have had no problems yet.) <<Mmm, okay'¦and as you seem to have surmised'¦'way too much' life in this tank>> I also have a nice harvest of two different types of Caulerpa growing on my live rock. <<Can'¦or more likely'¦will be trouble. You may want to consider getting rid of this now. Caulerpa can quickly overtake/overgrow a system'¦maybe not so much a concern in a FOWLR tank, but unsightly nonetheless. Removal can be next to impossible once established'¦and even thinning of this single-cell algae can be problematic as 'breaking off' of the runners releases noxious chemicals>> My water parameters have been very stable for a while now. I would very much like to upgrade my tank to maybe a 150-200gal. <<I think this is a necessity'¦considering your livestock>> So I have the following questions for you: <<Okay>> 1. Which size would you recommend for my current tank mates? <<Is an old cliché, but really'¦bigger the better. If you have the means, go with the larger tank>> 2. What is the best way to properly set up the new tank? <<I need you to be more specific'¦else read here and among the associated links (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fishinvsetup.htm) >> I would like to put it where my current tank is. <<Again'¦specifics. I'm happy to help, but I need more info to go on>> 3. I should transfer my water to the new tank to avoid cycling, correct? <<This will 'help' with the Nitrogen cycle, yes'¦but will not necessarily eliminate it>> 4. What is the best way to move my inhabitants to the new tank? <<Avoid the use of nets (except maybe for 'herding') and scoop them in to plastic containers for moving to the new tank>> 5. Can I immediately put my inhabitants into the new tank? <<Some say you can'¦I say no'¦ Best to let the new system run at least a day while monitoring/testing to make sure nitrogenous compounds are not building/accumulating. Even with the transfer of rock/substrate/water from your old tank there is a chance of the new tank going through a 'cycle''¦if only from the 'disturbance' of the old media>> 6. Given my current tank mates, when I do upgrade the tank, are there any other fish species could I add with them? <<Perhaps'¦but this will need to be large enough not to be eaten by the Lionfish while not so aggressive as to pick on either the Lionfish or the Eel. And something with the same environmental preferences as both (i.e. -- low light/low activity). Perhaps a suitably sized grouper species'¦although many of these have the capacity to outgrow even a 200g tank>> 7. I know you suggest not mixing corals with anemones due to chemical warfare. Are there any soft corals, maxima clam or compatible inverts I could mix with the species I have? <<There is more at issue here than the Anemones, Michelle. The presence of the two Caulerpa species in the display is a real problem re keeping any corals'¦and the fishes you have are not suited to 'high intensity lighting' type environments. Obviously, with the presence of the Anemones, the latter is already a problem and you will hopefully address this with some caves/overhangs to allow the Lionfish to escape the bright lights. The former, in my opinion, should also be addressed with the removal of the Caulerpa. With this in mind, some Faviids (Caulastrea, Favia, Favites, Goniastrea, Montastrea, etc.) placed well away from the Anemones and each other to preclude any physical contact from sweeper tentacles will be less problematic than more noxious/chemically armed so-called soft corals here>> 8. I know I will also have to upgrade my skimmer, what's a good size/brand for the new tank? <<My current fave is Euro-Reef'¦but AquaC, Tunze, H&S, (some others), are good choices too. Have a look at their offerings and go by the manufacturer's recommendation on size'¦and feel free to come back to me to discuss these further>> 9. Any advice for gear, plumbing, setup? <<Lots'¦what do you have in mind?>> 10. Any other advice for upgrading a tank? <<Reading/research'¦make a plan>> Anything else I should know? <<Much to impart here my friend'¦but you need to know 'what to ask''¦ Read here (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm) and among the links in blue. Then come back with your specific questions> Sorry for all the questions, I am just very afraid that I will do it wrong and lose all my inhabitants. <<No worries re the questions'¦and I do empathize>> I would appreciate any advice you can give to help me do this correctly. I do have a RO/DI filtration system set up and mix all my water myself; I use Instant Ocean salt mix. Thank you in advance for your help. Michelle <<Consider my comments'¦read-up where indicated'¦and then let's continue to chat. Regards, Eric Russell>>

FOWLR Set up/Planning 7/7/08 Good day! <Hello Joe!> I am a total newbie as it relates to saltwater aquariums and have spent the last week or so plowing through articles and FAQs on your site. It has been absolutely great. I really did not have a clue how little critical information I actually knew until I started reading more. <Great!> In case you are interested in the level of knowledge one can gain, or not gain, by culling your resources as a primary learning tool you may be interested in noting my plans. While I feel I have learned an incredible amount from your site, only someone smarter than I can actually pass judgment on the quality of my learning. <Hmm, perhaps more experienced.> There is no need to post this in the FAQ, but I thought you may either appreciate (lament) the success (failure) of the site to educate me. <All (coherent) conversations are posted.> After two weeks of pouring through your articles and FAQs, I have come up with the following plans for my transition from a small fresh water system to a 175g FOWLR. <Congratulations on the swap.> I bought the whole shooting match (tank/hood/base/equip) on eBay for $1300 and I am likely the definition of the ignorant buyer. <We all end up with gear we wish had not been bought.> God, I hope this can come together! My son and I are as pumped as can be! Sometimes I can't sleep; planning things in my head. Thanks! Joe Relevant facts about the attached drawing: Goal (from a totally newbie perspective, for sure) is lots of pretty rock, about a half-dozen or more pretty fish, an anemone or two for the fish to interact with (I've since learned these are not for beginners) use of LR, LS and under-tank DSB to keep water conditioned properly. Any necessary support creatures would be added as needed. How is that for simpleton goals? <Sounds fine.> 175g main tank with a custom made 40g refugium/DSB/skimmer under the tank. Main Tank: Oceanic 175g bowfront main tank with ½' LS bed because I do not want to build a full DSB in the main tank. I kept to only ½' to keep the aerobic activity in the bed. {WWM advice} Main tank to use a mix of base rock and plenty of Fiji LR keeping clearance near walls for cleaning. {WWM advice} Water movement from a custom built manifold plus the two built-in reef-ready water jets (or whatever they are really called). <I believe you are referring to LocLine, fine product.> {WWM advice} Manifold fed by T4 1250 gph pump while reef-ready jets fed by Rio 700 gph pump. <Looking at the diagram, I would limit your outputs to four ½' with this pump, but the beauty of PVC is cheap, easy experimentation. Also, do consider running your T4 on a dedicated closed loop, your overflow (I assume they are dual 1'?) will not handle the flow of this pump. This leaves the Rio as your sump return, just right for these drains.> Water drainage from two-reef-ready overflow pipes (I'm a little worried about the flow-rate of these based on a WWM warning!). <They can flow enough to support a system, just not anywhere near what is claimed.> Lighting TBD but the setup I bought has a dual 36' light fixture. <This will be a determining factor re an anemone.> Refugium: Refugium under tank built upon a plain-Jane 40 gallon glass tank and partitions for bubble control and settling chamber. {WWM advice} I would like to understand the fluid dynamics of the baffles a bit more here but I'm sure that will come with more research. <Research and seeing it in action. Just remember water will always find it's way where gravity pulls it. Do check out the article on pressure locking sump baffles, this will allow you to adjust if need be: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm .> Use of a 6' DSB with a 5' base of fine aragonite then a 1' layer of LS. {WWM advice} <You can skip the live sand, it will populate off the rock in time.> Heaters in the refugium. <Fine.> EuroReef skimmer in the refugium. <A good choice.> LR, critters and plants/algae stuff that I need to read more about in refugium. {WWM advice} Need to learn more here but that too will come. <You will learn much more in the process.> Lighting TBD but the cabinet has two fluorescent bulbs mounted in it. May not need to go overboard here. <Not for a FOWLR, again, the anemone is a different story.> Possible retired equipment based on WWM advice that was included in my lot but I may be able to eBay includes MR-400 wet/dry, extra powerheads, UV sterilizer and 1/3hp Cyclone chiller with digital temperature control. <Do hold on to all of this. The powerheads and chiller in particular may come in handy.> Quarantine Tank: The 10g FW tank I was going to sell will be used for a quarantine tank instead. Water Prep: I've read about water treatment using RO/DI to prevent phosphates from the water source but have no idea what that means. < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm> I will research it more. The lot I bought includes a Deionizing filter kit and five filters but I'll have to research more on this whole topic. <Sounds like a full blown RO/DI unit, a good choice.> Cycling: I've read the process for rocks only first, cleaning, cycling, adding LS, then livestock etc. This could take the rest of the summer, but I am excited. <Slower is better here.> Lots of advice here on specific species. Thanks! <Welcome.> P.s. The refugium and manifold are what I am building, not bought from eBay. <Sounds good, keep reading and learning! Looking forward to hearing of your future success, Scott V.>

Re: FOWLR Setup W/Anemone 7/10/08 Thank you for your thoughts Scott. <Welcome.> Despite the desire to get started right away, upfront design will hopefully pay off in the long-run and your suggestions will undoubtedly make it a better system. <Looking before leaping, careful planning will indeed payoff. Do it right, do it once!> The crew's time answering non-stop newbie questions is really appreciated. The pressure-fit baffles suggestion could save a lot of rework since I am new to refugium design. Once the design is confirmed to be correct, I can fix them permanently. <A nice way to do it, movable baffles until you are happy, then permanently adhere. You may find the movable baffles are so nice you will leave it that way!> Two follow-up questions... 1) On the dedicated close-loop for the T4, is the return simply a loop over the side of the tank? <Basically the same return manifold you had on your original diagram. As for the intake, yes, over the side of the tank with a strainer. You will need to prime this much of the same way as most canister filters, leave an open PVC T at where the intake comes over the top of the tank, add water until the line is full, cap off the T and start the pump. Do be sure to put the strainer low enough into the water to stay below the waterline during any tank maintenance. This will eliminate the need to re-prime every time you do a water change.> I am not really in a position to be drilling the tank. For such a simple question, I've had a hard time finding any web advice on this or a dedicated product other than a very expensive overflow box. An expensive add-on overflow box (several hundred $) is out of the budget for now. <At the risk of being self serving, do check out Glass-Holes.com (my site). This can be done much cheaper, building your own box is also quite easy. The drill bits are so inexpensive I strongly encourage you to consider this if you are in the very least DIY inclined. Even diamond coated Dremel bits will work.> The wife is already wondering how long the new kitchen cabinets will have to wait due to this. <Been there my friend!> 2) I'm still unsure about lighting. Some articles here say NO is the way to go and avoid metal halide, others say a 28"h tank is too deep for NO. <It is if you want light loving livestock in the bottom half. NO can be done, depending on livestock and placement, but it does require quite a few bulbs and is not used too much anymore. Do consider the new HO T5 bulbs also.> Some of the FAQs are old so the state of the art may have changed. There is a lot of conflicting advice to the new reader. Maybe the nuances resolve those inconsistencies but it is hard for newbies to resolve. <I understand, you seem to read a lot of advice, all situation specific, so each is a bit different.> It seems through reading newer FAQs that a mix of HQI and actinic might be needed for anemones in 28" of water. <If you have any hopes of the anemone living towards the bottom of the tank (it will go where it wants to), halides are going to be your best bet for this. Some 250 watt lights will do the trick with a 10000K bulb. With the higher Kelvin bulbs you lose usable light, you will want to keep all that you can with this depth in a tank. Also, do be aware that anemones are notorious for moving around, stinging, killing other corals, and eating smaller fish as well. If you wish to convert this tank to a full reef down the road, do check out the link below and related FAQ's to know what you are getting into. Have fun, Scott V.> http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm ------------- Previous Note, slightly edited ------------- Goal (from a totally newbie perspective, for sure) is lots of pretty rock, about a half-dozen or more pretty fish, an anemone for the fish to interact with (I've since learned these are not for beginners) use of LR, LS and under-tank DSB to keep water conditioned properly. Any necessary support creatures would be added as needed. 175g main tank with a custom made 50g refugium/DSB/skimmer under the tank. Main Tank: Oceanic 175g bowfront main tank with ½" LS bed because I do not want to build a full DSB in the main tank. I kept to only ½" to keep the aerobic activity in the bed. Main tank to use a mix of base rock and plenty of Fiji LR keeping clearance near walls for cleaning. Water movement from a custom built manifold plus the two built-in reef-ready overflow boxes with LocLines. Manifold fed by T4 1250 gph pump while overflow-box LocLines are fed by Rio 700 gph pump. <Scott V. - Looking at the diagram, I would limit your outputs to four ½" with this pump, but the beauty of PVC is cheap, easy experimentation. Also, do consider running your T4 on a dedicated closed loop, your overflow (I assume they are dual 1"?) will not handle the flow of this pump. This leaves the Rio as your sump return, just right for these drains.> Lighting TBD (see question above). < Scott V. - This will be a determining factor re an anemone.> Refugium: Refugium under tank built upon a plain 50 gallon glass tank and partitions for bubble control and settling chamber. {WWM advice} I would like to understand the fluid dynamics of the baffles a bit more here but I'm sure that will come with more research. <Scott V. - Research and seeing it in action. Just remember water will always find it's way where gravity pulls it. Do check out the article on pressure locking sump baffles, this will allow you to adjust if need be: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm .> Use of a 6" DSB with a 5" base of fine aragonite then a 1" layer of LS. <Scott V. - You can skip the live sand, it will populate off the rock in time.> Heaters in the refugium. <Fine.> EuroReef skimmer in the refugium. <A good choice.> LR, critters and plants/algae stuff that I need to read more about in refugium. {WWM advice} Need to learn more here but that too will come. <You will learn much more in the process.> Refugium Lighting TBD but the cabinet has two fluorescent bulbs mounted in it. May not need to go overboard here. Possible retired equipment based on WWM advice that was included in my lot but I may be able to eBay includes MR-400 wet/dry, extra powerheads, UV sterilizer and 1/3hp Cyclone chiller with digital temperature control. <Do hold on to all of this. The powerheads and chiller in particular may come in handy.> Quarantine Tank: The 10g FW tank I was going to sell will be used for a quarantine tank instead. Water Prep: I've read about water treatment using RO/DI to prevent phosphates from the water source but have no idea what that means. < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/phosphatemar.htm> I will research it more. The lot I bought includes a deionizing filter kit and five filters but I'll have to research more on this whole topic. <Sounds like a full blown RO/DI unit, a good choice.> Cycling: I've read the process for rocks only first, cleaning, cycling, adding LS, then livestock etc. This could take the rest of the summer, but I am excited. <Slower is better here.> Lots of advice here on specific species. Thanks! <Welcome.>

Scott, Re: FOWLR set up planning 7/11/08 Scott, you've convinced me to give the through-wall a shot to get the extra flow needed for the closed-loop T4 pump. <OK, definitely worth it!> I will leave the built-in ones for the Rio and refugium. Not sure if I will drill myself (I am a DIY'er) or go to an insured glass shop since this would void the warranty. <Glass shops generally will not guarantee anything.> Having only a very few opportunities to rework once complete, I appreciate your advice before I fill-er-up. <Tis the idea, plan now, don't pay later.> See attached jpeg... 1) Regarding the overflows with through-wall bulkheads, to you think it would be too much if I mounted them in the same corner overflow areas as the built-in ones? Assuming there is mounting room of course. <A point of clarification to avoid confusion. For your closed loop you will want to drill a good bit (at least 6-8' or so) below the waterline outside of the overflow boxes. This is going to act as an intake for the pump, not an overflow. Regarding the overflows, since you are drilling, do consider adding some more drains inside the boxes to feed your sump. Right now you likely have two 1' drains, the boxes themselves can handle much more flow than this. You can simply drill through the back inside the box and drastically increase your flow capacity into the sump. An 1.5' bulkhead inside each box will increase your future flow capacity and safety margin by 1500 GPH or so.> 2) Do you think it would be safer to run the new overflow returns into the protein skimmer area of the sump and draw both pump supplies from there or go directly into the T4? <I would not run both pumps through the sump. Too much flow can be tough to manage. You will likely have issues with bubbles in your return. Use the Rio as your sump return and drill an intake for your T4 as a dedicated closed loop. You can run the closed loop intake described above directly into the T4.> Thanks
Joe
<Welcome, talk again soon, Scott V.>

My New In-Wall FOWLR System! -- 04/21/08 Hello everyone at WWM!! <<Hi there, Art!>> I am currently in the final planning stages of setting up my 125G "in-wall" tank (picture attached). <<Neat'¦though speaking from experience (my current system is my second 'in-wall' system), I think you will find you wished you put some access doors above the tank on the 'front' side. Keeping the front glass clean from 'behind' is a real pain'¦and may even become impossible if corals are kept/grow large>> The R/O water is currently mixing in the tank with the salt and 135 lbs of live rock will be arriving on Thursday. <<Mmm, a lot of rock'¦do think to keep an 'open' design to allow the fishes room to swim>> I also have a 55G corner tank with live rock, which was cycled with a protein skimmer and water changes about a year ago (still do periodic water changes). After the tank was cycled I read some information that makes me question how I should cycle this larger tank. <<Oh?>> For my corner tank I ran my skimmer from the moment the rock was introduced, but I read somewhere (I know it's not very helpful when I can't recall from where.... but now it's at the back of my head) that the protein skimmer shouldn't be turned on until your ammonia levels sky-rocket. <<I disagree'¦it is my opinion/preference to run the skimmer from day-1. Letting Ammonia and Nitrite levels 'sky-rocket' as you say only further harms the emergent life on the rock>> I don't know if this is correct or not, but to me, it doesn't seem very beneficial to all of the microorganisms that make their home in the rock. <<Indeed'¦macro-organisms too>> I will also be adding some rock from my sump/fuge along with that "bacteria in a bottle". What is your opinion about cycling a tank with the protein skimmer at onset? <<Is my preference to do so>> Now here is my other question. I have neglected, or better yet put aside, my stocking list for this tank, because of all of the issues associated with carpentry, plumbing, and everyday hassles that come with building a new tank. <<I see'¦and is understandable. But do give this aspect of the planning process its due diligence>> From the beginning I knew it was going to be a FOWLR tank, my 55G Reef has cute small fish that get along with coral, but until recently I have decided to keep more aggressive larger fish in the 125G since I now have space for them. <<Mmm'¦better than the 55g for sure>> Here goes: 1 Humu Humu Trigger 1 Niger Trigger <<Even at 125-gallons, this tank is not really big enough for this fish in the long-term'¦and your stock-list should be with consideration for the long-term>> 1 Volitans -or- Radiata Lionfish <<Not a good choice with the triggers>> 1 Lyretail Wrasse <<Would do better as a trio (a male and two females) in my opinion>> 1 Yellow Tang 2 Maroon Clowns <<These will likely claim a good-size portion of the tank as their own>> OK. So this is my dream list. I have a friend that has successfully kept a Niger and Humu in the same (150 G) tank for about a year with no problems, <<A 'year ' is neither 'long-term' nor a measurement of 'success'>> but as I have read these fish aren't very predictable in the temperament department, so I know it's not a guarantee. <<Will be trouble sooner or later'¦for sure>> Seeing as how all of these fish are aggressive, I think it's a gamble either way to go with one or the other, but I would like to hear an expert's opinion. <<Aggressive fishes or not'¦you can't just lump any species together and hope for the best. Compatibility is still an issue'¦and 'just' getting along or just 'existing' in the same tank will manifest in social and health issues. I recommend you pick a 'show fish' you would like and that is suitable to your tank size and then research/build a stock-list of 'suitable tankmates' around this fish>> As for the Lionfish, I much prefer the look and size of the Radiata to the Volitans, but from what I've seen at LFS they are not as easy to come by. <<Can likely be 'ordered'>> What do you recommend? <<Volitans is 'my' favorite (the black color phase), but go with your fave'¦just not with the triggers>> Do you think the Maroons would be able to hold their own in this tank? <<A very aggressive Clownfish species'¦if not small enough to be swallowed'¦likely, yes>> I currently have a Maroon in "time out" aka my sump/fuge because what was once a pretty friendly going fish, turned into a big bully from one day to the next. <<Not atypical>> I would most likely introduce the clown fish first, to give them the alpha seat, and then the other more aggressive fish at the same time, if you approve of my list. <<You have my opinions thus>> I have a Skimmer rated for 250G because I know larger fish are pretty messy eaters. <<Yes, I see it'¦looks to be a Berlin HOT skimmer. These can work 'fair''¦but usually need continual fiddling/adjustment'¦I would opt for a better and more efficient make/model. I also see you have installed check-valves on your pump return lines...a source of trouble. Best to design the plumbing such that these devices are not necessary>> If there is any more room in this tank I would like to put some smaller (about the same size or smaller as the maroons) aggressive "dither" fish to add some contrast and bring out the larger fish, but if I'm overstocked already then I'll just stop now. <<Mmm'¦not so much overstocked as mis-stocked>> Thank you in advance for taking the time to answer my question! <<Is my pleasure to share>> Your site really is a godsend! <<A collective effort'¦we're happy you find it of use>> Art Perez, 20 California
<<Eric Russell'¦South Carolina>>

Re: My New In-Wall FOWLR System! -- 04/23/08 Thanks for the quick reply, <<Quite welcome Art'¦and thank you for writing back as it gives me the opportunity to correct a mistake I made during our previous correspondence which I will explain shortly>> I am taking your advice and have decided not to add the Niger or the Lionfish. <<For the best'¦considering>> I love the shape and color of the Lyretail Wrasse, so having 3 sounds like a good idea to me! Will I have enough room in the long run? If so, my only problem regarding this species is being able to find females. Do I just purchase 3 similar sized specimens and hope they are all females and the dominant one becomes male? <<This is where I made an error in my reading of your previous query, Art. My eyes saw you had written Lyretail Wrasse, but my brain processed Lyretail 'Anthias.' Even if three of this Thalassoma species of wrasse were to get along (not a likely occurrence), your 125g tank is too small for three very aggressive, foot-long, fast-movers. My apologies for the error>> I have made some revisions to my list. Here goes: 2 Maroon Clowns 1 Purple Pseudochromis 1 Yellow Tang 3 Lunare Wrasse <<Should be amended to '1'>> 3 Yellowtail Damsels 1 Snowflake Eel Do you think an angel of either Annularis or Imperator would be a good "show fish" for this tank? Or would it be harassed by the Tang and the wrasse? <<Spectacular fishes for sure'¦and either one would be 'King Fish' in this tank'¦but either one would require a tank at least double the size of yours in the long term. Best to keep looking for another 'show fish'>> As for the order I was thinking of putting the clowns, Pseudochromis, and damsels in at the same time, and let them establish themselves. <<Probably fine>> Then put the eel and the Angel, (if suitable) and finally add the wrasses and the tang. Should the order be altered? <<Since the Angel is out (at least these two species), the Thalassoma Lunare should go in last>> Thanks in advance!! <<Always welcome'¦ And again'¦sorry for the earlier mis-communication. EricR>>

Small Marine Aquariums
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums
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ook 2: Fishes
New Print and eBook on Amazon: by Robert (Bob) Fenner
Small Marine Aquariums Book 3: Systems
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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