"Purple fuzzy sea fan" question 11/10/08 Hello, <Hello, Jessy here> I purchased a new sea fan a couple days ago and I have a few questions about it. I am pretty sure it is non-photo synthetic but maybe you could verify that for me. I have attached pictures. I have been searching the internet for a positive identification but I can not find anything like it.  It has pale yellow skin with a deep purple colored polyp. I have a photosynthetic Caribbean gorgonian and a non-photosynthetic yellow finger gorgonian and they are doing well. <Great choices. They are the easiest gorgonians to care for> They eat cyclopeeze and rotifers and even the small piece of mysis. My new sea fan has much smaller polyps then the other two. According to the store where I purchases the feed it phyto every once in a while but I have read many places sea fans do not eat phyto. <Advice like that from stores makes me very very angry. Gorgs cannot live on phyto.> They said they have had it for a while and it was fully open and healthy looking. I tried feeding it rotifers, cyclopeeze and crushed flake food. It appears to have eaten this but some of the larger pieces it lets go. It did not eat as aggressively as my other two. Do you have any suggestions for feeding or thoughts on the phyto? <Its a great supplement for all kinds of corals, including gorgonians, but in no way is it enough to sustain this species.> I find Sea fans and gorgonians amazing and want to get as many as I can in my reef. <I agree, I love gorgs as well and have kept many in my tanks. This species is not very hardy in a captive system. I fear you may only be able to keep this specimen for a time (months maybe) before it succumbs to starvation.  You are doing well by feeding multiple foods, you can try adding a few of these foods I've had success with. Prawn eggs (great for your yellow finger gorg), Oyster Eggs (Reef Nutrition has a great new product, Oyster Feast), Coral Frenzy, and crushed flake foods. You should be target feeding and making sure they get a good variety of food. Please if you get more gorgs, stay away from the non-photosynthetic kind unless you have a dedicated system and are well versed in the care for these animals. And for the record, never get a blueberry gorgonian. They won't live even with the special feeding I've given them. A good reference for types of gorgs that are proven to survive in captivity http://www.garf.org/GORG03/WINTERGORG.html This piece is beautiful and I want it to thrive. As always thanks for all your help and sharing you experience in this matter. <Good luck. I don't want to sound all doom and gloom, but you will find that the smaller the polyps the less chance you have at keeping the gorg long term.> Kind Regards, Jeff <Regards, Jessy>

Deep Sea Yellow Gorgonian - 06/07/06
I was just wondering how you think a Deep Sea Yellow Gorgonian a.k.a. Orange Finger or Sea Rod (Diodogorgia sp.) would do in a 75 gallon tank with a 3 inch sand bed, 3 Maxi-Jet 1200 powerheads, and a 300 watt PC lighting?  I have an AquaC Remora Pro skimmer and 2 Emperor 400 filters.  Thanks, Jon
<<Mmm...how dedicated are you to keeping this specimen alive?  This creature is non-photosynthetic, meaning you will need to feed it directly with live phytoplankton.  Can be done...but requires diligence on your part to keep it fed.  Sadly, most specimens are doomed to slow starvation in the average aquarist's tank (if your in to gorgonians, the photosynthetic Purple Ribbon Gorgonian {Pterogorgia sp.} makes a hardy tank specimen).  The presence of a large, mature refugium would also be of benefit.  Otherwise, what you list sounds fine but do place the gorgonian where it will receive subdued lighting to help prevent algae growth.  Have a read here for some husbandry tips re this species: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2002/toonen.htm
Regards, EricR

Blue polyp gorgonian care 10/21/03
Hi Anthony,
<cheers, my friend>
Thanks for answering my questions about my blue polyp gorgonian (
Acalycigorgia ). I do have a couple of remaining questions if you would be so kind.
<my/our pleasure>
Would the Selcon soaked Mysis be a better food than the Cyclop-Eeze? Would you alternate?
<Selcon is a very good supplement all ways around (fishes, corals, anemones, etc) - please continue to use here. But as nutritious as mysids are for many animals, I suspect they are way too large for gorgonian polyps here. Better for larger polyped animals and many fishes. Continue with Cyclop-Eeze>
When I frag it can I use any old superglue that I get at the hardware store, or is there a marine type of superglue?
<DIY superglue is fine... just be sure to use the thick gel for ease of application>
When I add the refugium on this tank, will there still be a need for a plankton reactor?
<that depends on the style of fuge you set up and how strict you are about keeping it safe from plankton predators (no shrimps, crabs, fishes, corals, etc in it)>
Will the zooplankton population in the fuge, and my daily feedings
be enough for this gorgonian to thrive?
<quite possibly... install as large a refugium as possible: 20-40% the display size of you can>
Thanks again for your help. There are a countless number of fish and corals that are still living because of WWM. Peace
<and peace to you in kind :) Anthony>

Goin' For A Gorgonian!
Good afternoon Scott,
<Hi there!>
I hope you had a great turkey day!!!
<Typical...Ate w-a-a-y to much...!>
Well Scott a got a question for you. I just brought  a yellow gorgonian!!
<Sounds nice!>
And I was wondering, I have a bottle of Selcon its that good feed for my gorgonian, or should I buy some Reef plus instead and feed once a week???
Thank you
<Well, if you're referring to one of the Diodogorgia species (like D. nodulifera, which is frequently called the "Yellow Gorgonian" in the hobby, then feeding is very important. You really want to use plankton-like foods to feed these animals. Selcon is a great enrichment for many foods, but it is not really a substitute "food", in my opinion. I'd utilize a preparation like Liquid Life's "BioPlankton", or Frozen Cyclop-Eeze. They do require a pretty high level of care, or they will typically waste away in captivity. Do a little research on the 'net to verify the species that you have, and then give the animal a lot of attention, and you may experience some success...Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Gorgonian Grub
Hello Scott,
<Hi there!>
I brought some Liquid Life BioPlankton today from my L.F.S. and I started with one pump for my 45 gallon tank!!!  
I've read in some web pages that I should pump every other day, what do you think? It does not say in the bottle.
<I'd tend to agree with that advice; although I'd make sure that you're keeping up the water quality in this tank. Do monitor the water chemistry, to assure that everything is up to par. You certainly don't want to pollute the water. Also, you may want to check on the net regarding specific applications for this product. Liquid Life, USA's owner, Ed Ramirez, is a nice guy who will be able to give you some good pointers on its use. Bon Apetit! Regards, Scott F.>

Flower Anemone Baby 2/25/04
Cheers Crew, One again, the website is great and the information has brought peaceful sleep to me more than once,
<ahhh... good to hear!>
but I've got two quick questions.  In my large reef tank I recently brought in (post quarantine) a purple sea whip and golden sea rod.  
<hmmm... I'm content with the purple whip, but wonder/suspect the golden rod is azooxanthellate (night feeder) and as such, doomed most likely to starve to death in the next 6 months or so>
Mounted them w/epoxy to small rocks to get above the sand, all polyps are out and healthy.  My question is I have an upstream refugium and a 6" DSB, is there any thing else that my benefit them food wise other than the occasional Artemia wash and the chopped krill/seafood mix I feed to the larger corals?  
<occasional feedings of phyto like DTs brand phytoplankton>
Also, just noticed a baby flower anemone--e. crucifier (@3/4" dia.), while feeding my colony of these anemones, is there anything to do for it besides let it live and grow.  
<target feeding will help tremendously>
It is attached just below the far edge of the mother's disk.  It was quite an amazing site to find, I guess I must be doing something right for the tank, best wishes to all, Joe Bales
<kindly, Anthony>

Feeding gorgonians and filter feeders
Hello I have just added to my 155 gal tank some finger corals, gorgonians,
mushrooms, some featherdusters, I have a plate coral, and some other
anemones. All these are from the Atlantic side of panama in central America.
I also have a Atlantic blue tang and 3 snappers. I added this in the past
weekend. My polyps 2 of them don't seem to be very well. What should I be
feeding them I was reading in your book that they filter feed and have to
few days a week give them food. Should I buy those bottles they sell at the
stores I think I saw one from Kent marine called Micro vert that feeds
inverts its liquid style. And zooplankton what should I do?
<< I think all types of plankton foods like that are very beneficial to corals.  Live plankton better than bottled plankton, but all plankton is good.  Also, lots of light. >>
Thank you much
<<  Blundell  >>

Feeding Diodogorgia - 4/14/05
Hey Guys. 
<Hi. Paul helping out today>
I need some help. 
<What we do here.> 
I got a Yellow Finger Gorgonian Coral a few days back, and I need some help feeding it. 
<OK> 
I saw on GARF.org the following instructions 
<You could always call GARF. They are quite helpful Support (208)344-6163> 
INGREDIENTS:
Flake fish food - 1 tablespoon
SeaChem Reef Plus - 4 tablespoons
Fresh water - 1/4 cup
Soak the flake food in the Reef Plus for one hour and then add the fresh water. Puree the mixture in a blender for several minutes. After you allow the mixture to set for several minutes you can pour the smallest particles off with the water. The larger particles will settle to the bottom of the glass and they can be used to feed the Gorgonians.
I have no idea as to how to actually "feed" the coral. 
<I would use a syringe (without the needle, of course) or a small turkey baster or baby snot ball, 
and suck up a small amount of food and actually squirt around the extended polyps. Try with flow (pumps and skimmers) off first for 5-10 minutes then turn them on. I would feed once every three days or so.> 
Do I feed it inside the tank? 
<Absolutely> 
Remove it? 
<If it is easy you could but I would not> 
I do not know. Any help would be appreciated. 
<Hopefully I have helped. Please do take this opportunity to learn from this situation, and be sure to do as much research as you possible can before purchasing to save your bank account and yourself extra effort. Thanks for being part of it all. ~Paul>

Feeding a orange finger gorgonian
I recently purchased a Large Orange Finger
Gorgonian (Diodogorgia nodulifera) and a small red
one. I just read in my book that this are
non-photosynthetic and require feeding. I have never
kept a non-photosynthetic coral and do not no what to
feed it. What should if feed it and how should I go
about giving the food to it. Any help would be
appreciated I do not want to starve this beautiful creatures.
>>
Something in the way of a "mash" of meaty animal material is what most folks use. Develop some sort of process of blending a bunch (as in a blender) material that you can freeze/store... defrost every other or third day... Turn off your filters, but not powerheads...(best on a timer) for a good fifteen minutes, and use a turkey baster (when the animal's polyps are extended) and gently wash the material in the gorgonians direction... Does this make sense?
Bob Fenner

Sea Fan selection, feeding
Bob, what do you think of the Sea Fan. ( I mean the chance of survival in a home
tank) Also, what do they feed on?
Thanks.
>>
Some species do okay (Pseudopterygorgia spp. are almost standard offerings in western Europe for instance)... need to be collected and shipped carefully... Some are filter feeders, some are photosynthetic... Maybe read up about Sea Fans, aka Gorgonians on my site: www.WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner

Gorgonian problem help!!!!
Hi Bob!
I Hope you can help. I have a orange gorgonian I purchased from the Flying Fish. I'm not sure of its name, but it has white polyps and about seven inches high and across. It was doing great at first. I have it in a good water flow area kinda high in the aquarium. I have a 29 gallon tank with power compacts. The gorgonian hasn't shown its polyps in a month and is starting to shed its outer skin exposing its skeleton. I moved it all over the aquarium thinking it was light . Nothing seems to help. I do regular water changes Ph 8.2 Alkalinity is at 2.5 and I fed it brine shrimp. I'm afraid it deteriorating will harm my other corals and few gobies? Any suggestions?
Liz XXXX@yahoo.com
<Hmm, actually... this is not likely a photosynthetic species... likely a Diodogorgia species... and you should try other foodstuffs... Most importantly one/some of the "phytoplankton" prep.s sold for the purpose (like DT's...), administered to your system water... during different times of day... with the pumps turned off to the filters (not the non-filter pumps though) for a good fifteen minutes... And yes, sea fans, gorgonians can prove toxic to all other life if/when they "fall apart"... you may want to remove this specimen (in a bag with water in it, w/o lifting it into the air)... to another system, isolated... Sometimes the "bad parts" of the "rind" of these animals/colonies can be excised to save the remainder... Please read over the "Gorgonian" section posted on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com and associated FAQs files as well... and do endeavor to get the name, know the basic husbandry of the animals you utilize ahead of their acquisition going forward. Bob Fenner>

Sea Whip
Hi WWM Crew-
<cheers, Anthony Calfo in your service>
We purchased two sea whips (or what the LFS said were sea whips) they look like branches, one is red and one is orange with red spots. 
<alas... the are challenging aposymbiotic (non-photosynthetic) species. Best kept in a species specific tank without other cnidarians (corals, anemones, gorgonians, etc). They need heavy feeding (perhaps live phytoplankton for you to culture or build a phyto reactor) and strong water flow>
After searching your web site and your book, but we read a lot about sea fans. But these don't have the interconnecting branches that the sea fans do. 
<too many species and genera to describe, but the care (unknown as much of it is) and level of difficulty is still quite similar>
Could you advise about the care of sea whips, 
<please do read a bit more here if you haven't already. Still... not much is known about their long term care. A challenging creature indeed. A shame that they are so inexpensive and tempting: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/seafanfa.htm>
and whether or not they are toxic like sea whips if they die. 
<likely moderate to very>
Are they photosynthetic? 
<no>
Are they filter feeders? 
<yes>
Or do you have to hand feed? 
<lot s of feeding indeed... phyto reactor or fishless refugium would be best>
My mom found your web site and bought your book and now she quotes you at the fish store and the owner knows you by name, "But Bob Fenner says..." Your web site provides so much helpful information.
<agreed... he is a wonderful living and published resource for our beautiful hobby>
Thank you-Elaine
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Yellow Finger Gorgonian
Hi there Bob - just a quick question for you, if you don't mind.
<Anthony Calfo... AKA coral boy, in your service>
Diodogorgia nodulifera is predatory and non-photosynthetic so I'm just wondering - if light is not required by this coral and it can get rid of algae by shedding a mucous layer, 
<well... not exactly, bud. It can shed waste products and some nuisance algae to an extent through mucus tunics. However, shedding excessive and unnatural growths of nuisance algae is not a primary function of mucus tunics... waste removal is>
does it actually matter whether it receives bright light or dim light?
<very good question. It is likely that if nuisance algae is not a concern or problem in the tank (causing an undue burden on resources to purge it), then residence in a more brightly lit spot will be little harm>
Is placement an issue beyond putting it in an area of strong current? 
<very good... strong current is key and for many Gorgonids...laminar flow>
The reason I ask is because people seem to do well enough with corals like Tubastrea in shaded and in well lit areas and that particular coral doesn't even have the same capacity to rid itself of algae. 
<agreed... although Tubastrea naturally occurs (say 10-20%) on brightly lit portions of the reef. Such animals simply are not as well adapted to fend nuisance algae IF they develop. So the key here is to run a tight ship and don't let nuisance algae establish! <G>>
I recently acquired the Diogorgia and have it quite high in the tank although not directly under a 150 Watt metal halide. Your advice eagerly anticipated......
Simon Sleigh
<do consider buying or building a phytoplankton reactor. Also know that if this animal is not in a species tank, but in a mixed reef aquarium with mostly autotrophic animals, that one is going to suffer likely. It would be hard to provide enough food for the aposymbiotic gorgonian without disturbing the symbiotic animals (excess DOC levels, etc) Best regards, Anthony>