Feeding Diodogorgia - 4/14/05
Hey Guys. 
<Hi. Paul helping out today>
I need some help. 
<What we do here.> 
I got a Yellow Finger Gorgonian Coral a few days back, and I need some help feeding it. 
<OK> 
I saw on GARF.org the following instructions 
<You could always call GARF. They are quite helpful Support (208)344-6163> 
INGREDIENTS:
Flake fish food - 1 tablespoon
SeaChem Reef Plus - 4 tablespoons
Fresh water - 1/4 cup
Soak the flake food in the Reef Plus for one hour and then add the fresh water. Puree the mixture in a blender for several minutes. After you allow the mixture to set for several minutes you can pour the smallest particles off with the water. The larger particles will settle to the bottom of the glass and they can be used to feed the Gorgonians.
I have no idea as to how to actually "feed" the coral. 
<I would use a syringe (without the needle, of course) or a small turkey baster or baby snot ball, 
and suck up a small amount of food and actually squirt around the extended polyps. Try with flow (pumps and skimmers) off first for 5-10 minutes then turn them on. I would feed once every three days or so.> 
Do I feed it inside the tank? 
<Absolutely> 
Remove it? 
<If it is easy you could but I would not> 
I do not know. Any help would be appreciated. 
<Hopefully I have helped. Please do take this opportunity to learn from this situation, and be sure to do as much research as you possible can before purchasing to save your bank account and yourself extra effort. Thanks for being part of it all. ~Paul>

Feeding a orange finger gorgonian
I recently purchased a Large Orange Finger
Gorgonian (Diodogorgia nodulifera) and a small red
one. I just read in my book that this are
non-photosynthetic and require feeding. I have never
kept a non-photosynthetic coral and do not no what to
feed it. What should if feed it and how should I go
about giving the food to it. Any help would be
appreciated I do not want to starve this beautiful creatures.
>>
Something in the way of a "mash" of meaty animal material is what most folks use. Develop some sort of process of blending a bunch (as in a blender) material that you can freeze/store... defrost every other or third day... Turn off your filters, but not powerheads...(best on a timer) for a good fifteen minutes, and use a turkey baster (when the animal's polyps are extended) and gently wash the material in the gorgonians direction... Does this make sense?
Bob Fenner

Sea Fan selection, feeding
Bob, what do you think of the Sea Fan. ( I mean the chance of survival in a home
tank) Also, what do they feed on?
Thanks.
>>
Some species do okay (Pseudopterygorgia spp. are almost standard offerings in western Europe for instance)... need to be collected and shipped carefully... Some are filter feeders, some are photosynthetic... Maybe read up about Sea Fans, aka Gorgonians on my site: www.WetWebMedia.com
Bob Fenner

Gorgonian problem help!!!!
Hi Bob!
I Hope you can help. I have a orange gorgonian I purchased from the Flying Fish. I'm not sure of its name, but it has white polyps and about seven inches high and across. It was doing great at first. I have it in a good water flow area kinda high in the aquarium. I have a 29 gallon tank with power compacts. The gorgonian hasn't shown its polyps in a month and is starting to shed its outer skin exposing its skeleton. I moved it all over the aquarium thinking it was light . Nothing seems to help. I do regular water changes Ph 8.2 Alkalinity is at 2.5 and I fed it brine shrimp. I'm afraid it deteriorating will harm my other corals and few gobies? Any suggestions?
Liz XXXX@yahoo.com
<Hmm, actually... this is not likely a photosynthetic species... likely a Diodogorgia species... and you should try other foodstuffs... Most importantly one/some of the "phytoplankton" prep.s sold for the purpose (like DT's...), administered to your system water... during different times of day... with the pumps turned off to the filters (not the non-filter pumps though) for a good fifteen minutes... And yes, sea fans, gorgonians can prove toxic to all other life if/when they "fall apart"... you may want to remove this specimen (in a bag with water in it, w/o lifting it into the air)... to another system, isolated... Sometimes the "bad parts" of the "rind" of these animals/colonies can be excised to save the remainder... Please read over the "Gorgonian" section posted on our website: www.WetWebMedia.com and associated FAQs files as well... and do endeavor to get the name, know the basic husbandry of the animals you utilize ahead of their acquisition going forward. Bob Fenner>

Sea Whip
Hi WWM Crew-
<cheers, Anthony Calfo in your service>
We purchased two sea whips (or what the LFS said were sea whips) they look like branches, one is red and one is orange with red spots. 
<alas... the are challenging aposymbiotic (non-photosynthetic) species. Best kept in a species specific tank without other cnidarians (corals, anemones, gorgonians, etc). They need heavy feeding (perhaps live phytoplankton for you to culture or build a phyto reactor) and strong water flow>
After searching your web site and your book, but we read a lot about sea fans. But these don't have the interconnecting branches that the sea fans do. 
<too many species and genera to describe, but the care (unknown as much of it is) and level of difficulty is still quite similar>
Could you advise about the care of sea whips, 
<please do read a bit more here if you haven't already. Still... not much is known about their long term care. A challenging creature indeed. A shame that they are so inexpensive and tempting: http://www.WetWebMedia.com/seafanfa.htm>
and whether or not they are toxic like sea whips if they die. 
<likely moderate to very>
Are they photosynthetic? 
<no>
Are they filter feeders? 
<yes>
Or do you have to hand feed? 
<lot s of feeding indeed... phyto reactor or fishless refugium would be best>
My mom found your web site and bought your book and now she quotes you at the fish store and the owner knows you by name, "But Bob Fenner says..." Your web site provides so much helpful information.
<agreed... he is a wonderful living and published resource for our beautiful hobby>
Thank you-Elaine
<with kind regards, Anthony>

Yellow Finger Gorgonian
Hi there Bob - just a quick question for you, if you don't mind.
<Anthony Calfo... AKA coral boy, in your service>
Diodogorgia nodulifera is predatory and non-photosynthetic so I'm just wondering - if light is not required by this coral and it can get rid of algae by shedding a mucous layer, 
<well... not exactly, bud. It can shed waste products and some nuisance algae to an extent through mucus tunics. However, shedding excessive and unnatural growths of nuisance algae is not a primary function of mucus tunics... waste removal is>
does it actually matter whether it receives bright light or dim light?
<very good question. It is likely that if nuisance algae is not a concern or problem in the tank (causing an undue burden on resources to purge it), then residence in a more brightly lit spot will be little harm>
Is placement an issue beyond putting it in an area of strong current? 
<very good... strong current is key and for many Gorgonids...laminar flow>
The reason I ask is because people seem to do well enough with corals like Tubastrea in shaded and in well lit areas and that particular coral doesn't even have the same capacity to rid itself of algae. 
<agreed... although Tubastrea naturally occurs (say 10-20%) on brightly lit portions of the reef. Such animals simply are not as well adapted to fend nuisance algae IF they develop. So the key here is to run a tight ship and don't let nuisance algae establish! <G>>
I recently acquired the Diogorgia and have it quite high in the tank although not directly under a 150 Watt metal halide. Your advice eagerly anticipated......
Simon Sleigh
<do consider buying or building a phytoplankton reactor. Also know that if this animal is not in a species tank, but in a mixed reef aquarium with mostly autotrophic animals, that one is going to suffer likely. It would be hard to provide enough food for the aposymbiotic gorgonian without disturbing the symbiotic animals (excess DOC levels, etc) Best regards, Anthony>