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FAQs about Naso lituratus 1 Related
Articles: Lipstick Tangs,
Naso Tangs, Surgeonfishes/Tangs/Doctorfishes
and Marine Aquariums, Related FAQs:
Lipstick Tangs 2, & Naso Tangs 1, Naso
Tangs 2, Naso Tangs 3,
Naso ID,
Naso Behavior, Naso Compatibility,
Naso Selection, Naso Systems,
Naso Feeding, Naso Disease,
Naso Reproduction, Surgeons
In General, Tang ID,
Selection, Tang
Behavior,
Compatibility, Systems,
Feeding, Disease,
"I vant to eat chour brown algae....." | 
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- White Spots on Naso Tang -
Hi Crew,
I have a 3"-4" Blonde
Naso Tang with small white specks surrounding the perimeter of both
pectoral fins and a white tuft (approx 3/16" long) attached to the
lower, rear anal fin. I have tried to take pictures of this but I have
been unable to produce any that show the problem. There is not a single
(visible) spot of Cryptocaryon on the fish's body. It did have a mild
case of crypto and refused to eat for the first four days after it
arrived about 1 1/2 weeks ago so I began treating with CLOUT for two
days, followed by CopperSafe since that time.
The Royal Gramma that
is in the QT with the Naso developed a case of fin and tail rot so I
also treated the tank with Maracyn 2 and Melafix. All fins on both fish
are completely clear and perfectly healed now. I gave the Naso an 8
minute freshwater dip four days ago, in an attempt to rid it of these
few white specks, but this had no effect. The tang is eating very well
now and, other than these few white specks on the fin edges, it appears
to be perfectly healthy. The white spots are very pronounced
though. They are approximately the size of a grain of salt (except for
the white mass / tuft on the anal fin) and they appear to be lightly
sitting on top of the fin edge.
I know the white salt grain-sized
specs sounds like Cryptocaryon but I have maintained a constant 2.0 PPM
level of Cu++ (chelated CopperSafe) in this QT for nearly 1 1/2 weeks
now, followed by freshwater dips. I have also examined this fish very
closely and there are absolutely no other white spots except for these
isolated few at the very outer edges of the pectoral fins so this is
making me think this fish has something other than crypto. Any ideas?
<It's probably just residual marking from the Cryptocaryon. Given the
level of copper and the fact that the fish is otherwise eating and doing
well, I'd let it continue in quarantine... always keeping an eye on
things, make sure those spots don't turn into something else, get
infected, etc.>
Water parameters: Salinity = 1.022, Temp = 82 Deg. F,
Ammonia = 0 PPM, Nitrites = 0 PPM, Nitrates = 20 PPM, 2.0 PPM Cu++,
weekly 25% water changes.
Your help is greatly appreciated!
--Greg
<Cheers, J -- > - Shoe-horn Quarantine -
Greetings Crew,
I really hope you can help me to keep a Naso Tang alive. I currently
have a 3.5" (mouth to tail) Blonde Naso Tang that is frightened of
absolutely everything. His gills and fins begin to flap like a
hummingbird's wings any time I get near his tank, turn the lights on or
off or anything inside or near his tank moves. He turns nearly black in
color, with white spots. There are times when gilling is normal and he
regains normal coloration but I must remain completely still for several
minutes to see this.
What really has me concerned is his lack of
appetite. I have had this Naso for three days now and I have still not
seen it eat. This is my third Naso and all three have suffered the same
symptom of not eating. Although the first two Naso Tangs died, I have
had very good success with all my other fish so I had hoped I just
happened upon two unhealthy fish previously and this one would live a
long life. The only difference with this fish is that it does appear to
have eaten at some point before I received it. The previous two Nasos
were very thin (concave, in fact) but this one is more rounded -
"full-bodied".
This Naso is currently in a 20 gallon QT with a 2"
Purple Tang. <You should separate these fish - not a good size for two
tangs.> I have not noticed any aggression (they were added at the same
time). <Still... too close quarters.> For the first day I also had a
flame angel and a tiny clown goby in this tank as well but I have since
moved them to my 55 gallon QT. <I would do this the other way around
with the clown and goby in the smaller quarantine and the larger fish in
the 55 - even better would be to have the Naso in there by itself.>
Ammonia and Nitrite is at 0 PPM, Nitrate = 20 PPM, salinity = 1.023 SG
and temp = 79 Degrees F. I perform ~20% water changes every third day
(using water from my 180 gallon main tank). The tangs showed signs of
Cryptocaryon so I medicated with CLOUT for three days, until all white
spots were gone. I am not using copper at this time because I used this
on the previous Nasos and thought this might have played a part in their
lack of appetite as I have read that some tangs are sensitive to copper.
<Perhaps.>
I have tried feeding Formula 2, Nori, Spectrum pellets,
flake food, chopped silversides (Selcon-soaked), Zooplankton and even
brine shrimp (Selcon soaked) but the Naso has shown no interest in any
of these. The purple tang seems to like all of these. What else could
I try? <I'd stick with the algae and other green foods - what you might
want to try is thaw out some frozen formula two and then press that into
a chunk of live rock and re-freeze. When it's feeding time, thaw out a
little bit and place in the tank. This should allow the fish to
duplicate its natural feeding behaviour which is picking at algae on
rocks. Again, I'd remove the second tang from this tank so there is no
competition for this food.> Is there any "irresistible" fish food? <Not
that I can think of other than live algae growing on live rock - this is
what they eat in the wild.>
I QT all new fish for 4 weeks (or 4 weeks
after the last signs of ich). I use the drip method to acclimate fish
over about a 45 minute period. I feed any existing fish in the tank
before adding new fish and I leave the lights off for at least four
hours after adding new fish to the QT. There are two cave-shaped pieces
of live rock in the QT for hiding. I try to remain out of sight of the
tank except for feeding for the first day or two, until the fish get
accustomed to their new surroundings. What else could I do to make the
transition easier for this fish? <Remove that second tang.> What could I
possibly do to get the Naso to eat? <Have detailed my ideas... can't
think of much else.> Are Naso Tangs of this size just not hardy, do you
see any issues with my husbandry or do you think I just had a very bad
coincidence (3 very sick Nasos - 1 from my LFS and two from an online
store)? <Combination of factors - capture and transport is very
stressful, and this usually takes weeks to come down from.>
I have
considered moving the Purple Tang to the 55 gallon QT but this larger QT
contains a 6" Powder Blue Tang, a porcupine puffer, a flame angel, 3
ocellaris clowns, a Longnose B/F, a Royal Gramma, a Lawnmower Blenny and
a Clown Goby. <My friend, you have too many fish in this quarantine. You
really need to be dealing with and then placing one fish at a time.
Additionally, you have too many tangs... you're going to have problems
in the long run with this mix.> I think the Purple Tang would probably
hold its own with the Powder Blue but the 55 gallon QT is already a bit
crowded and I also thought the Naso might be encouraged to eat by
watching the Purple Tang. <I think you're overcrowding your quarantine.>
What are your thoughts regarding what I should do - move fish? <Slow
down - one fish at a time.> different foods? medication? fish shiatsu?
buy a larger Naso Tang that is eating at the LFS instead of taking the
risk on smaller fish? <None of the above - you need to adjust your
behaviours. The fish are just reacting to the situations you are putting
them into.> Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, as I do not want to
be unintentionally harming this fish or wasting money on a type of fish
that is "impossible" to keep. I did not think Naso Tangs were supposed
to be delicate fish. <They typically aren't.> Are Blonde Nasos more/less
hardy than those that are not from the Red Sea? <Not that I'm aware of.>
-- Greg
<Cheers, J -- > Removing the tangs from a Tang
I've heard that this is sometimes done by collectors seeking to make the
Tangs easier to handle.
<Yes, especially larger specimens... on
collecting are "clipped" to reduce/eliminate chance of injury to diver,
other specimens>
I just received a Naso from Saltwaterfish.com whose
tangs are not there. What is the long-term impact of this? I'm really
disappointed! It seems wrong to take away their primary form of
defense. It's akin to declawing a cat and then expecting it to
acclimate well to an environment in which it will have to engage in the
process of establishing a pecking order.
<No long-term problem should
arise from this practice. The "tangs" do grow back... in a few months
time>
This fish does not seem terribly healthy, either. He's not
eating at all despite being offered many tempting treats. (Lettuce,
Nori, brine shrimp, formula one)
Any recommendations?
<To refer to
the family coverage on WWM re the feeding of acanthurids, the genus Naso
in general. Bob Fenner>
Ana M. Saavedra - Problems with New
Naso Arrival -
Hi WWM Crew,
Two days ago I received a 2.5"
Blonde Naso Tang along with a few other fish from an online fish
store. All fish are doing very well in my quarantine tank -- except for
the Naso. The first day in the QT it lightly picked at a piece of live
rock but there is really not much life on this rock to sustain
it. Since the first day, I have not noticed this fish eating
anything. It appears thin to me, except for a slight bulge in its
stomach.
I had a similar problem with my last Naso Tang so I might
just be overly-sensitive this time. My last Naso was about the same
size and I watched it waste away without eating for nearly three weeks
before it finally died. From what I have read on WWM and elsewhere, my
best guess is that it possibly had some type of worms. This Naso is
presenting nearly identical to the last one; it has no signs of external
parasites, no wounds, clear eyes and appears completely well in every
way except for not eating (and sometimes being dark brown / gray in
color). I tried using Cravex (vitamin B12), a variety of foods, regular
water changes and Paragon II with the last Naso. None of this had any
effect. I am using Cravex with the current Naso and trying Formula 1
pellets, self-made food with Selcon (my other fish devour), Nori,
Zooplankton and even brine shrimp (anything just to get it started
eating). So far, I have not seen this fish eat.
What do you suggest
to entice this fish to eat? <You might try a trick taught to me by
Anthony Calfo... seems to work pretty well with fish that pick. Take
small pieces of live rock, preferably something that has some surface
texture but not sharp. Using the Formula 2, thaw it out and press the
food into the surface of the rock and then refreeze. Thaw slightly at
feeding time and place in the tank. With some luck, this will allow for
something close to their natural feeding habits, and it will clean off
the rock. If the fish does start to eat this way, do put other foods in
through the top at the same time so it will [hopefully] begin to
associate the two.> It is currently in a 55 gal QT with a 5" Powder Blue
Tang (no aggression issues so far), 3 Ocellaris Clowns, a Royal Gramma,
a Long-nose B/F and a Lawnmower Blenny. All fish appear to be very mild
mannered. Ammonia and Nitrites are zero, Nitrates are 10 PPM, Salinity
= 1.0235 SG, Temp = 77 Degrees F. I am now considering moving this Naso
to a 20 gallon QT and possibly trying to medicate using Clout as a kind
of catch-all. <Hmm...> I do not want to just medicate indiscriminately
but I also cannot stand to just watch another Naso Tang waste away.
<Understood.> Please provide some suggestions. <I would hold off on
treatments for the moment - do understand your desire to help this fish
turn the corner, but think that the best way to do this 'right now' is
to reduce stress as much as possible, and I think removal to another
tank, treatment, et al. will exacerbate your problems. Try the feeding
rock first... if that doesn't work, you might try more drastic action
but I don't see a good end to it.>
Now, following-up on a previous
question -- I had asked about using Cu as a standard practice in a QT
for all arrivals since I recently purchased a Purple Tang that showed no
signs of parasites for the first day in the QT but looked like it had
been sugar-coated on the second day. My concern is that new fish could
be carriers of Cryptocaryon and have no indication of this for the
entire quarantine period, only to bring the crypto into the main tank
once moved. <Nine times out of ten, they will present these issues in
quarantine. Most all parasitic issues are cyclic so that at some point
in the two to four weeks the problems, if there are going to be any,
will show up. Copper, especially with tangs can cause more problems that
it's worth, so it's my opinion that it's better to hold off.>
Again,
I prefer to not medicate without a specific reason for doing so but,
since crypto can be so elusive, my question is: "Are the potential risks
associated with consistent QT use of Cu outweighed by the benefits of
(nearly) guaranteeing parasite-free fish being introduced into the main
aquarium?" <Varies on a case by case basis methinks. Copper, formalin,
all these are toxic/poisonous in the right concentration so that you
really should avoid them unless symptoms dictate the need.>
Thank you
for the help. I am looking forward to your response on the Naso so I
can hopefully begin to do something to turn-around its appetite soon.
--Greg
<Cheers, J -- > - Problems with New Naso, Follow-up -
Thank you for the suggestion to try to get my Naso Tang eating. <My
pleasure.> Unfortunately, it is no longer even picking at rock so I
think it might be too late for even this option to work. <Well... it may
be convinced there is nothing there to pick at.> I will try this along
with regular water changes to maintain top water quality and hope for
the best. <I think this is your best bet.> I did read a few suggestions
about taking fish to a vet and having them tube fed. I honestly think
this is probably the only chance for this tang now but there are no such
vets in my area. I have pipettes that would fit in the tang's mouth but
it seems to me that this would cause more stress to the fish than most
anything imaginable and could just push it over the edge. What do you
think -- is it worth a try at this point? <The tube feeding? I agree
with your premise that this will be too much stress on an already
stressed fish.>
Regarding the QT and medication, I will leave all the
fish in this tank un-medicated for four weeks and hope they are not
parasite carriers. I did read that all fish are carriers of
Cryptocaryon but it just remains dormant until a time of stress. <I
don't agree with that - Cryptocaryon can't go dormant forever or until
convenient, and if you don't think capture and transport isn't
stressful, then I don't know what is.> If this is the case, it does
appear that I could be risking the fish in my main tank though and I do
not have room to keep my main tank fallow for an extended period.
<Quarantine will truly reduce these risks. If the fish is carrying
parasites, 99.9% of the time they WILL be expressed upon arrival,
whether in your main tank or in quarantine.>
Once I eventually reach
the final stocking capacity of my main tank and no longer need such a
large QT, I would like to convert my QT to another display tank. (I
can't decide whether I want a reef or triggers, puffers and angels so
this would allow me to have both setups). My concern is that many
people say copper can NEVER be completely eliminated from an aquarium
once it has been used. <I've heard this too and feel that tanks are
cheap enough that it's better to be safe than sorry - just keep it
around as a quarantine or for emergency use.> A few other people have
told me that use of a poly filter over an extended period of time will
eventually eliminate nearly all traces of copper. <From the water... not
necessarily the silicone.> If I do need to use copper in my QT, will I
ever be able to use this tank for a reef (assuming I remove all existing
sand and rock)? <Again, not a risk that I personally would be willing to
take.> I cannot image how glass or silicone could absorb any significant
quantity of copper. <Hmm... well I managed to turn all the silicone blue
in my quarantine tank, so it's obviously absorbing something.> Even if
they did absorb some amount of copper, the amounts that would be slowly
released would be diluted in 55 gallons of untreated water. It seems to
me that this small release rate (if any) would be more than offset by
normal water changes. Am I wrong? <I'm not sure you're wrong and I'm
not sure you're right either. Personally, I just like to be cautious. I
say try it... if you can't keep any invertebrates alive, then you'll
know the answer.>
--Greg
<Cheers, J -- > Naso Tangs
Hello Bob,
<Hello Sanjay>
I'm unsure if you remember, but approx 3
months ago I wrote to you regarding Naso tangs and intestinal worms.
My plan was to investigate intestinal worms in Naso tangs as a reason
for their decline in captivity.
<Interesting possibility>
I
purchased a healthy six inch Naso and introduced it to my QT system. It
settled in well and after a week or so I began my experiment.
To
half a cube of frozen food I added approx 20mg of an anti-thelmic
preparation called Mebendazole. I obtained the liquid form which sticks
to frozen food.
I fed this twice a day for two days without any ill
effects to the Naso. However I did not see any worms.
<Have you
taken a look to and through the scientific literature on issues
involving such worms and Surgeonfishes?>
On the third day, hey
presto, hundreds of tiny round worms (confirmed by the local vet) about
1 cm in length. Nasty looking organisms might I add.
<Have any pix?>
The QT tank had a little live rock, which proved to be a great
mistake. Many worms sought refuge in this rock. At the same time the
anti-thelmic agent seemed to dislodge the worms, but did not kill
them. I tried to remove as many as I could.
The tang re-ingested
the worms and began to decline in the same manner as my previous Naso
did in my main system.
The Naso became increasingly thin over a few
days.
Eventually the tang died from what I suspect to be an over load
of worms.
I decided to discard the live rock, but as I was about to
do so, I spotted a very large round worm about half an inch thick and
six inches in length.
My conclusion from the above may provide a
reason for why Naso tangs decline for no apparent reason in captivity.
<One hypothesis... how will or might you go about devising experiments
to prove, disprove it?>
I am not repeating this exercise as I do not
want to be responsible for another Naso death. However I believe that
importers of these beautiful creatures may find my studies interesting
and take on the responsibility of de-worming these fish before they are
passed on to retailers, (in an Ideal world).
<... better to have a
larger sample size... and more "cures" folks can attempt>
I also
conclude that those who read this post and decide to de-worm a fish in
QT, must do so with either a more effective anti-thelmic drug or a
greater concentration of Mebendazole. Ensuring the tank is devoid of
live rock is also essential.
<Okay>
Hope this has been of interest
to you, thanks in advance for taking an interest.
Regards
Sanjay
Patel
<And thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
Black Spot on Fin (NASO TANG)
Hello,
You have a great web
site!! I have a 130 gal. salt water with a few damsels and a large
puffer and a 11" Naso tang. I noticed yesterday a black spot on one fin.
I have had him about a month and he came from a friends tank. He
shudders a lot , but no signs of anything!
<Mmm, could be
"nothing"... the shuddering is natural... some melanistic spots on Naso
lituratus come and go...>
I keep a low dose of copper in the tank,
however recently I removed all of it with a carbon pad.
<I would not
keep copper constantly in a main/display tank>
Should I retreat with
copper or formalin?
<No>
He eats and looks great! Nitrates have
been a little high but I do weekly water changes and everything else
looks good! He constantly shakes a lot. It this
<This animal does
shake naturally as stated (even in the ocean), but it may be shaking
more due to being in small confines... I would look into ultimately
trading it in for a smaller specimen (like half this length) in your
130... or getting a much larger, longer system for it. Bob Fenner>
Re: Black Spot on Fin (NASO TANG)
Bob,
Thanks so much for
the information ! I am removing all copper out of the tank. My Naso is
doing better, however he stopped eating for a few day but I was able to
get him to eat live brine shrimp last night. I suppose it was the
medication in the water and now he seems to be coming around. (The black
spots on the fins have disappeared).
<You are very likely correct
here>
I have one more question! I have a 4" or 5"-saddleback clown
that I bought from a dealer.
<A large specimen... better not bought
at adult sizes>
I put in a QT tank for about 2 weeks and then put
him in my show tank. I noticed some large white patchy raised spots on
the tips of his fins (about 2 of them )and one on his side. He does not
scratch them and he eats like a pig. I have read they are prone to
parasites or Brooklynella? I am putting him back in the QT tank and
removing the copper . What Do I treat with now? Formalin or anything?
Dips? or wait and see! He has about a total of 4 spots on him.
<I
would NOT treat this specimen OR move it... but instead replace it to
the main/display system, bolster its nutrition with the soaking of foods
with vitamin complex (e.g. Selcon)... Not likely Brooklynella or any
parasite here. Bob Fenner>
HELP,
CAPT. NEMO-
Re: Naso Tang Hunger Strike, Black Spot...
Bob,
Hope
everything is going well ! I wrote you last week about my 11" Naso Tang.
I was running copper on the tank and then treated him with clout (for a
black spot on his fin) about the 3rd day on the clout he quit eating!
<If memory serves, I mentioned NOT treating this fish... and would cease
to do so NOW>
The puffer and the damsels in the 130 gal. tank are
fine. The water is perfect and has been through the treatment. I am
pulling everything out of the tank with carbon filters and activated
carbon, all levels are much lower.
<My friend... I can't tell what
you mean by "perfect" or "lower"...>
However, my Naso will eat very
little if anything at all. It has been about a week and he is looking
ok, but he has the pinched stomach. I have tried everything, live brine
shrimp is the only thing he will even try to eat and very little each
time if at all ! I am very concerned that he has been over medicated
with the copper and clout. I have used Selcon on brine and live plants.
Do you have any
suggestions!
<Yes... place this specimen back in
the main tank if you have not already, try various algae on a "clip"
near the water/air surface... Kombu, Nori, what have you, that you can
get from the oriental food store or section in a main outlet>
I am
very worried that I am going to lose him.
He is swimming around fine
and breathing normal, yesterday he started staying on the bottom behind
a rock (very unusual for him).
<A very bad sign... Tangs rest on the
bottom at night, but during the day are continuously active>
If the
light is on he is more active.
help!
<Move the fish, offer it
prepared or fresh macroalgae. Bob Fenner>
Re: Naso Tang Hunger Strike
Bob,
The fish that you told me
NOT to treat and to move back into the main tank was the 5" saddleback
clown.
<Sorry re... think I've got you, your situation confused with
something/someone else's that's similar>
Which I did exactly what
you said and he is doing great and some of the white cotton like spots
have disappeared! He is doing great and eating fine!
<Ahh, good>
Unfortunately, the Naso had already been treated as of my writings to
you. My local Fish Store owner is the one who gave me the clout and
copper treatment idea for the black splotches on the fin (I know, don't
believe everything you're told!!)
<I discount most all... including
when I'm talking to myself!>
Nonetheless, I did pick up some Kombu
and Nori and will try that tonight!
<This species of Naso REALLY
likes macroalgae... I have seen it with its head out of water (!) in
Hawai'i munching away at intertidal thallophytic material!>
My water
has maintained a O ammonia, O nitrite, 8.2 ph. 20 t0 40 on the nitrate(
large fish only tank).
Thanks for the help!
<Thank you for the
clarification, input. Bob Fenner>
Re: Naso Tang Hunger Strike
Bob,
Just a little update! My
Naso is eating very well again!
Thanks for the tip on the Nori &
Kombu!! He is now eating everything again!
Thanks for the help !!
<Good news indeed. Thank you. Bob Fenner>
Tang In Trouble? (Naso Tang Not Eating)
Hi!
<Hey there!
Scott F. here today!>
First would like to thank you all for the
great site! I found answers to all of my questions there!
<Glad to
hear that! We have a LOT of good information on this site...Sometimes it
just takes a bit of time to research stuff...>
But now I got one
question I didn’t find.
<Sure>
I have a 230 gallon reef tank
with
2 clowns,
1 wrasse,
1 damsel,
1 Bicolor
Pseudochromis,
1 Bicolor Blenny,
1 Firefish,
1 Orange
Shoulder Tang juvenile,
1 quite big Moorish Idol and
1 Naso
Elegance tang (juvenile)
Some hardy soft and hard corals along with
some disk anemones and mushrooms. There is 130 lbs live rock in the tank
(planning to get more next month). Tunze Turbelle Stream 8000 l/h
powerhead (with air), Tunze 3130/2 skimmer, 36W UVC. I have this tank
for 4 month now. I had much smaller fish only
tank before (for 1
year). SG 1.023, temp 26C, Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates about 10, PH
8.3, KH
11.3, Ca 480 - all parameters seems to be fine. There is no
"electricity" in the tank since I bought "grounded" pump and skimmer.
The problem is with my Naso Tang. I've got him 4 days ago, along with
Orange Shoulder tang (I waited 4 mount for the tank stabilizes). I did a
1,5 hour acclimatization for the new arrival with lights off until next
morning and the next day both fishes was extremely happy with no signs
of stress at all! They eat everything I gave to them - frozen brine
shrimp, Mysis, Spirulina, sushi Nori, even broccoli!
<Always a great
sign! But I didn't see the word "quarantine" mentioned there...You
really should quarantine all new arrivals- particularly tangs.>
So I
relaxed a little bit, thinking I gave them a good start in the new
tank. Other fishes were very interested but not aggressive to the new
tangs. Both new tangs were very active, they
swam along together,
picking food and rocks. However the day after my Naso tang showed
completely different behavior.
First it was hiding then later it
came out and I noticed that he swims very strange - like he continues
sleeping! He was swimming very “passive” like fish do in the night in
the stream, "freezing" in one point. He showed absolutely no signs of
interest to food the hole day - it was very strange to me because the
other tang was even more happy and hungry than the day before!
<Not
a good sign...>
My Naso didn’t eat for 2 days now and became very
thin. He is doing this strange swimming the hole day and that's all! He
ignores food and other fishes. I'm really concerned about him because it
looks not good and I just can not lose him!
I noticed that the same
day he change his behavior one of my two starfishes (Linckia sp.) seems
to be bitten. May be he tried it and poisoned himself with it's tissue?
<Unlikely, but I suppose that it's within the realm of possibility...>
There is now signs of internal/external infection or parasites... The
other fish are fine and doesn’t show any signs of aggression to him die
to his size. I did read FAQ about Naso tangs found
they can refuse
food and so on. But I didn't found anything about this strange
"sleeping" during the day. Is it en internal infection symptom or
something else? I just have no idea what's wrong with him! What I
suppose to do with my tang before it's too late? What else should I
check? Please, help!
Hope for a quick answer
Mikael from Sweden
<Well, Mikael- I agree that this is not normal behavior for this fish.
It's never good to see a fish refuse food or act listlessly. The absence
of external symptoms does not mean that the fish isn't ill, but it is
something to be concerned about. These fishes do have difficulty
adapting to new environments, although your tank sounds like the
parameters are pretty good. If the fish continues to refuse food and
continues to act listlessly, then you may want to consider removing the
fish to a separate tank for further observation. If other symptoms
manifest themselves (like obvious spots or sores on his body), then
appropriate medical intervention is warranted. On the other hand, if the
fish is simply listless and refusing to eat, then I'd do what I could to
tempt him to eat again. Fresh macroalgae, such as Gracilaria, is an
excellent supplemental food. In the confines of a separate aquarium, you
could also administer some aquarium vitamins directly to the water
(remember- marine fishes do drink) in the hope that he will obtain some
nutrition in that manner. Provide a stable, clean environment and a
large variety of nutritious food items, and hopefully he will come
around and eat again. Don't give up on this fish. With a little extra
care and attention, he can pull through this difficult time and thrive.
Good luck! Regards, Scott F.> Tang
In Trouble (Pt. 2)
Good morning!
<Hello again!>
I would
like to thank you for the immediate reply.
<Glad to be of
assistance!>
Things are not going better with my Naso tang today. I
took a closer look on him and he looks fine! Except he is very thin but
there are no spots or scratches on his body. His breathing is ok and
mouth and lips look good.
<Glad to hear that!>
Anyway I guess it
can be some kind of internal infection or just stress (I hope!). He is
still not eating.
<Remain optimistic...>
I will continue
observations and offer him foods. To add some vitamins in the water is
a very good idea!
<It might just keep him going until he comes
around and starts eating again...>
While things are not going worse
there is a hope!
Thank you, Mikael
P.S. I know that quarantine
is a most important thing to prevent diseases. But I’ve got fishes from
a very trustful shop. Those guys are really concerned about animals they
sale and they are professionals in this. They do quarantine right in the
shop (10-14 days in separate tanks with UVC and so on). You can look and
book the fish during this period but you can buy it only when quarantine
will be done and only if the fish looks good and eats
well after
it... So I skip quarantine when I buy fish from them.
<Wow! That's
my kind of shop! Good to hear that! Still, do always remain skeptical
and vigilant when purchasing new fishes! I hop to hear more good news
from you on the Tang soon! Regards, Scott F.>
Thank you.
Mikael
Tang In Trouble (Pt.3)
Good morning!
<Hi there!>
You
guys are doing a very good job here! Thanks for the second immediate
reply!
<Glad to be of assistance>
Today my Naso feels not
better. His breathing is quite far from being ok- about 160 lungs
movements per minute! I guess that's it. It's not a stress, it's some
kind of infection, isn't it?
<So hard to tell without photos. I
think that you'll need to look into the disease FAQs on the WWM site to
make a positive determination as to what it is you're dealing with.>
Poor buddy! What should I do now? I do have an extra tank to isolate him
but the one problem is that he looks very weak and it will be just extra
stress for him. And the main problem is to CATCH him! The tank is very
big with a lot of rock in it. I spent 3 hours last time to catch my
clown (but tangs are much better swimmers!). So can I perform something
in the main tank now? Or should I try to remove him to an isolation tank
anyway? Thank you, Mikael
<Well, Mikael- this is a tough situation!
The fish really needs to be removed to a separate tank for treatment.
Treatment for a parasitic infection simply cannot be accomplished
effectively in the display tank. Yes, there is a certain risk involved
with catching and moving this fish to another tank, but it is definitely
preferable to watching the fish die without intervention on your part!
I'd try to catch him and get him into a separate tank for observation
and/or treatment as required (if you suspect parasitic infection,
formalin or copper-based medications are quite effective...). Regardless
of the symptoms, do your best to make a diagnosis and proceed from
there. Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>
Re: Naso Tang
Ok, I will get a bigger tank, but how do I try to save him in between
time.
The yellow Naso tang is not eating. What other types of food
should I consider feeding him... any suggestions.<Nori, Lifeline,
Caulerpa, other macro algae> And are you saying I should only house 1
tang with a tank of the size I have?<probably yes> Oh I have a rock
and fish only tank sorry for the confusion. If I get a bigger tank will
this prevent
disease outbreaks in the future...any
suggestions<possibly if you Qt before hand> Janeiro
<good luck,
IanB>
Nasos, and other Tangs
<HI, Mike D here>
I started to write and the Email went away , I apologize if you got this
twice. I was wondering if you could help,<I'll try>
I am finally
getting my dream system put in soon A 10' - 12 ' Aquarium.<Sounds
beautiful!> I have a Large 8" Naso, 2 Regal Tangs (1-4" 1-1.5")<Here's
one problem> 2 clowns , 1-Comet (Marine Betta) 1-Coral Beauty, These are
presently in 210 6' Tank
The Naso is Kind of mean, I thought they
were suppose to be Mildly tempered.<NO! The word "Tang" refers to part
of a knife, in reference to the blades found on the caudal peduncle or
base of the tail. These are weapons that can be used to deadly effect on
fish perceived as competitors or a threat!> She excepted the smaller
Regal, and the coral beauty with no problem , I had 2 copperbanded
butterfly,
Before I could get the poor fish out She had back the
butterfly in a corner, Swatted her tail ant the butterfly and dang near
sliced her in half, I never saw such a thing.<I have...use caution as
they can do this to fingers too!> I was trying to net the butterfly out
but I was too late. I have a 3rd 1." Regal but she was too tiny for this
system and wasn't doing well. She's good now, these 2 smaller tangs were
my rescue project. So far so good. When I get this new tank running. Is
a Powder blue OK with the rest of the tangs.<NO!! Emphasis mine! Many
tangs, and yours looks like a good example are one per tank. By Naso, I
assume you're referring to Naso literates, which is a small member for
this family of giants. The Powder Blue tang, by the way, although known
as an "ick magnet" when small, often grow up to be extremely belligerent
adults!>>
The Naso seems to be fine with other tangs, the all swim
together, although I think From time to time the Regal can be a pain for
the Naso, The regal will swim with Anything that will swim with her.<I
wouldn't be surprised to see the regal attack and kill the other regal
eventually. My suggestion, since they are getting along so far is to NOT
add another tang, and as you've already seen, if you decide to add an
angelfish or such, try a smaller specimen and allow it to grow up in the
tank. It's quite likely your tang will attack any other large fish you
introduce.> Thank you in advance for your Help<You're welcome>
Scott
Naso Tang Blowing In The Current?
I have a question for the fish
experts at wetwebmedia. My Naso tang has been doing great for over 5
months in my 180 tank. Recently he has begun to swim with a waggle, for
lack of a better term and he will turn sideways and roll. Rather than
being quick and alert like he always has been, he is being blown around
a little more by the current. Should I be concerned or is there any
actions / diagnosis you would recommend?
<Good observation on your
part. Although it may be nothing to worry about, the fact that this
normally very strong fish is displaying some signs of weakness, getting
blown around in the current-is certainly a cause for some concern. If
you are not seeing any other obvious external signs of illness, such as
white spots, excessive mucus, rapid breathing, etc., then no further
actions may be required except for continued good husbandry. On the
other hands, if additional symptoms of disease manifest themselves,
please feel free to let us know.>
He is eating well - mostly seaweed
selects green algae on a clip with some Selcon soaked in. He now eats
some of the Mysis and flake that I feed the rest of the tank (yellow
tang, ocellaris clown, lawnmower blenny). Could this be a nutritional
issue?
<It is certainly possible. I'd try offering some fresh
macroalgae, such as Gracilaria, which is en excellent supplement for
tangs. You can get some at my favorite e-tailer, Indo Pacific Sea Farms.
An excellent food for herbivorous tangs!>
Until recently, he had no
interest in anything I would feed except the algae on a clip. The other
fish are fine and the yellow tang is acting as usual. The two tangs
have always been a little scrappy but nothing to the point of injury.
The only other abnormal thing that I can think of is that the Naso will
sometimes have a circular lump in the stomach area after eating.
<I
would not be overly concerned about that at this point, unless the fish
shows other difficulties...>
Any insight you may have is appreciated.
<At this stage of the game, I'd employ continued observation, frequent
small water changes, regular feeding, and testing of water to assure
that all is well. In short- keep doing what you're doing! Good luck!
Regards, Scott F.>
Naso Tang with mouth problems dying
We have had this Naso
Tang in our 80 gallon tank for about five weeks. The tank has been
established for about six years. It contains a protein skimmer,
canister filter, bio filter, reverse-flow undergravel filter, &
three powerheads. All water tests done have been fine. The Tang was
eating until about a week ago, but at that time was only eating off
the rocks and brine shrimp. He would not eat formula one or two, or
Green Marine algae. He is now very thin, seems to breath normal but
has some sort of white growth on his lips which may be why he quit
eating. Can you tell by the picture what the mouth problem may be
and if it can be treated? I can't tell if the white is something
hard or sloughing skin. We also have two brackish puffers, two
percula clowns, a lawnmower blenny, three snails and a hermit crab
in this tank and all of them are doing great.
Thank You,
Tina
R
<Does look something like what is often seen in tetraodont
puffers where their teeth, for want of chewing on hard materials,
overgrow the mouth, prohibit feeding, and lead to wasting and
concomitant disease. I actually suggest reading about and trimming
this fish's teeth down... and quickly making this attempt. Please
see www.WetWebMedia.com using the search terms "puffer teeth" on the
home page Google Search Tool. Bob Fenner>
p.s. I thought it may
be Lymphocystis but had never dealt with this virus before. If in
your opinion it is Lymphocystis, can it be treated since it is on
his mouth or will he just die from not eating?
<Doesn't appear to
be lymph... but the animal's teeth themselves> |
|
Naso In Trouble?
Hi,
<Hello there! Scott F. at your service>
I am quarantining my first Naso Tang. I've had him over a month
and he seems to be doing OK. Likes to eat Sargassum and spaghetti
algae but hasn't really gotten into flake food or brine shrimp yet.
Very aware and curious of my presence, relaxed breathing and a decent
belly.
<All good signs>
I'd like to put him in the aquarium but I
wanted to check with you first. My only concern are these light
blotches or patches on its skin. To me the blotches seem to have
always been there, not getting worse or better. They aren't raised or
fuzzy either. I've attached a photo. Is this a normal
discoloration related to the confines of a QT.
Thanks, Justin
<Well Justin- first off, I commend you on your use of quarantine! An
excellent practice that will benefit you and your fishes for years to
come! As far as the blotches, it's hard to say what they might be. If
the fish appears otherwise healthy, eats well, and is not in any
apparent discomfort, then I'd be inclined to release the fish on
schedule. Could be anything from a genetic fault to a light trauma
incurred by scraping himself against aquarium decor. If you maintain
excellent water quality, and keep feeding this guy carefully, he should
be just fine. Good luck! Regards, Scott F> Naso tang life span
What's the average life span of a Naso Tang once reaching full length
?<In captivity I would say it would take around 5-10 years for the Naso
to attain its full length. In the wild about half that, IanB>
Strange Naso Symptoms (3/26/04)
Just found your web site and
found it extremely interesting regarding Nasos. I maintain aquariums for
several businesses and have had a problem with Nasos. <Believe me, many
do.> Seems after several months they get a series of pinprick spot on
the sides mostly just below the top fin and behind the head. Looks like
someone took a pin and gouged out a tiny spot. They tend to be dark in
color. Also seem to have a few white protrusions (very small) here and
there. No idea if they are related to the same problem. The first fish
finally died after months of this "stuff"
slowly spreading to cover a
fairly large area. Treated with copper without any results. <Hopefully
not in the display tanks.> Current fish has only 15 or 20 spots
currently, eats well, acts normal and is in a 125 gallon aquarium. Any
thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Jon Bartnick <It's always hard
to say without seeing. I'm wondering if this is HLLE. Do read up on it
and look at some pix on WWM. The other option would seem to be some sort
of parasite. If you have a fish die, it would be interesting to look at
some lesions under a microscope to look for parasites. Check out the
HLLE possibilities first. Hope this helps some. Steve Allen>
Neo Naso Notes
I just got a 3-4" Naso tang and he just got added
into the tank after a 3 hour drip acclimation are there any tips you can
give me for raising a healthy Naso?<Yea....you will need to feed this
potentially huge fish a lot...believe me I have a 14" Naso Vlamingi and
a 8" Naso Vlamingi....they eat A TON OF FOOD!!! Also you will need to
house this fish in at least a 6 foot aquarium because they are open
ocean swimming fish. Also make sure water quality is very good. IanB>
Naso Not so Good
Hello
<Hi, Ryan here>
I have a Naso tang
(lituratus) with streamers and he is not eaten since a couple of days, I
have checked water parameters and they are all fine (still did a water
change) except the ph that was about 7.8 I raise it to 8.1over a two day
period ,the thing is yesterday the fish had ate a little bit not as much
that normally eat!!!!( had not eat for two, tree days before that )and
now today he stopped again and I notice that is lips are white (like a
fungus or something covering the lips ) and he is staying on the top
part of the tank all he other fish are fine and healthy and eating fine
.?????????
<Hi. A change in pH from 7.8 to 8.1 can have negative
effects on sensitive livestock. I recommend you start to buffer your pH
(sounds like you already are), and add something to stabilize your
calcium and alkalinity. B-Ionic is simple as pie. As for feeding, I
would try and offer some frozen Formula 2 and Nori. The white lips you
are describing is probably a sign of a bacterial infection. Is this a
new fish? I would take him out, isolate him and treat with a
Furazolidone and Nitrofurazone medication, and follow the directions to
the T. Good luck, Ryan>
I am starting to freak
out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! don't want to loose that fish !!! how many time
can they stay without eating ?
Would like to have any help or advice
you think might help
Thanks Naso Tang in Trouble pt. 2
Good morning, sorry to bother you but I searched your website and
believe I found the disease affecting my Naso tang but not positive.
<Hello, Ryan with you on the follow-up> On one email to question, you
suggested it might be Turbellid worms. <Nasty business> I have had this
Naso for about 3 weeks. <So he's still being quarantined?> Just in a few
days did the dark spots appear all over its body. I've seen black ich
and it didn't look like that at all. The spots almost look as if they
are under the skin. <Good perception> The Naso is nowhere near as
aggressive as the other fish in the tank when it comes to eating. <I see
he's in your display...Sadly, the others are also at risk, certainly
because we're not sure what we're dealing with> He eats very little and
only gets what falls to the bottom that other fish. <Nori?> I thought at
first he was lethargic from not getting enough to eat but after the
spots appeared, I knew it had to be some type of infection. <Certainly>
I don't expect him to survive after looking at him this morning, he
looked too weak to do any type of freshwater dip. The other fish in the
tank, small trigger, coral beauty, yellow tang and clownfish seem to be
fine and are eating quite well. <You need to get this fish in a
quarantine tank- The other may die from this>
What can I do to keep
the other fish from getting it? <See above> He was the only one acting
strange no other marks on any of the other fish. <Don't get comfortable
yet> They are all eating quite well and active. I did treat the tank
this morning w/ Greenex just so
the yellow tang and others would not
stress and get ich. <I would refrain from medicating your display tank,
and only medicate in quarantine. Why force fish to undergo medication
when they're healthy? Medicate the sick, leave the healthy ones alone>
What should I do? <See above>
Don't want to lose the other fish but
as I said they all seem fine now.
Does raising the temperature of the
tank help kill parasites? <Yes, but you'll kill your fish before the
parasites. Leave the tank temperature constant. Healthy immune systems
is the best defense for your fish at this point- Healthy fish are well
fed, active and live in a stable environment.> Should I treat the tank
with medication to prevent the worms if indeed that is what it is from
spreading to the other fish. <Treat in quarantine> As I said, I've seen
numerous
diseases and never have seen this before other than on a
previous Naso tang. <Yes, many nasty things can gain entry into a host
during the stresses of shipping. For this reason, it's important to...
I don't think I need to repeat it again! ;) Good luck, and remember
that these situations are caused by rushing. Take your time, do it
right, and enjoy yourself. Ryan> Naso Tangs in a four foot
aquarium is a NO NO
Hello
I currently have a 110g reef that I
will be upgrading this summer to a 150 or 180 if my floors can handle
the weight. I currently have a white cheek tang and will be adding a
yellow tang after his quarantine period is over. Can I keep a Naso tang
as well? If not what are some other tangs I could house with these 2
guys?<None> I have close to 200lbs of LR so there are a decent amount
of cave and hiding sports. <Naso tangs do not need live rock, In the
wild they inhabit open water. They need swimming room and a four foot
aquarium will most definitely not be enough, IanB>
Thanks
Chris
New Naso
Good to write you again which must mean I have a
problem. Actually it is more of asking a question to prevent the spread
of a problem, if it is a problem that is. Anyway, the problem is that I
have just purchased a Naso tang 3 days ago, and up to 2 days he looked
great and acted great. He eats like a pig and enjoys swimming and
looking the whole tank over, normal stuff ya know. Anyway, last night I
noticed that around the inside of his orange lips it looked like he had
a layer of white mucus like crap. Like someone had stuck a white rubber
ring on the inside of his lips. As the day went on and the fish went
picking and eating algae off the rocks he just generally rubbed the
white filmy crap off.
So I thought that was the end of it, since it
has not stopping his eating. I forgot to mention, when I first
received the fish it looked like it had some slight pickings at its fins
that are on its sides next to it's gills, sorry I can't remember the fin
name <pectorals>. I didn't think anything of it, I have had fish come in
like that before, I just figured he was getting a little bit of
bothering, but what fish doesn't every now and then, and I figured it
would heal up in a week or so. Anyway, come this morning the film was
back around the mouth and now the picked edges of his fins had some
white film on them too. I thought maybe his eye looked like it was
starting to cloud a bit but I could be wrong so disregard that
statement. Anyway, do you have any ideas what this could be, if it is
anything? I was thinking maybe a bacterial parasite of some sort. The
only reason I hope it is this is because the only other disease that I
have seen that looks like this is a microsporidean infection, and if it
is that I am a goner, or at least the fish is. But I really don't think
it is that. if it is a parasitical infection how should I treat it? I
have been told different ways. Some people tell me that a fresh water
dip will cure it, bad thing is I don't know how long to dip them, you
could help me with that. The other is a long bath in Methylene blue. So
your help is greatly appreciated and needed, thank you. John Moyer
<<I don't think there is actually anything wrong with your Naso
(lituratus) Tang... what you describe is likely "just" some sort of
mucus that the animal is producing in reaction to being handled, and
healing... And I would not net and dip it... not worth the stress and
damage from the dip procedure itself... Keep feeding and enjoying the
animal...Bob Fenner>> Food for Naso
My Naso tang is
about 4 in. long, I got him about 1/6/00. It started to eat some lettuce
and some algae on the rock, then it stopped. I had removed my Sailfin to
another tank. Maybe that will encourage the Naso to eat but I haven't
got the result. I had tried different types of flakes, live brine
shrimps, but he either eat a little or none. Bob, what can I do? My
water quality is fine.
<<Look for some "Ogo" (sold live, cultured in
Hawai'i) or other brown algae... as the best taken food... some live
rock as second, some species of Caulerpa as third... Nori sheet algae
tied to something near the surface...
Bob Fenner>> 55g
Stocking
I have a 55 gal. reef tank with various hard and soft
corals. I currently have in the tank a 2" maroon and gold clown, a 3"
yellow tang, a few damsels (black neon, domino, orange-tailed blue), a
2" coral beauty angel, a 1" six-line wrasse and several sally lightfoot
crabs and snails.
Experienced hobbyists keep telling me about the
only "reef safe" fish I could now add are gobies and the like. Aren't
there any more magnificent fish (i.e., Naso Tang, Butterflies, Wrasses,
Anthias) I can add at this point that won't eat my reef?
<<Are there?
You bet! About thirty eight fish families that contain of outstanding
choices... Not the Naso, but many other tangs, dozens of
butterflyfishes, ditto with the wrasses, several Anthias. Am writing a
tome about this topic, much of which you can find sans images (thus far)
at
wetwebmedia.com. Tell me what you think. Bob Fenner>> Re:
55g stocking
Out of curiosity, why not a Naso? How about a large
red Coris wrasse? There is a beautiful one at a local store but I'm
worried he'll (she'll) eat my
corals. Please advise. Thanks.
<<The
Naso gets too big and is too rambunctious and waste-producing for your
55, the Coris will bother, even eat/chew on many of your reef animals.
Bob Fenner>> Fast Breathing Naso
I have a Naso Tang that
has started to "breath" very fast for about two weeks now. Believe it or
not I think it is the result of a Picasso Trigger that I had in my 125
gallon tank (he is gone now). The Picasso harassed everyone in the tank.
The Tang developed parasites so I treated the whole tank with copper
(just to prevent other fish from becoming infected) and put him into a
20 gallon hospital tank with Paragon II where he has been for the last
four days. Nothing appears to be helping the breathing. Any other
suggestions?
<<Yes Michael, let time go by without further stressing
the Naso. These are highly active fish that take a beating with being
moved, treated, and harassed... and the trials you describe have done a
few things that will take a while to "heal". For one, fishes have much
higher hematocrit (packed cell volume, or concentration of cells to
plasma) than humans... all the moving, beating and the copper have
reduced the animals cell count (dangerously). Add to this that fishes
live in an environment of a few (up to seven or eight) ppm of dissolved
oxygen (versus 200,000 ppm plus in the stuff we're "swimming" around in)
and you can see why the fish can't "catch its breath"! Don't disturb the
animal any more than absolutely necessary and it will come back. Bob
Fenner>> Naso reef safe ???
First let me start be saying
thank you for your time , effort ,and wisdom.
My question is . are
Naso tangs reef safe , may local fish store said they would nip at
my claims . Would it be possible to add 2 Nasos to 100 gal reef . My
only fish is a Sailfin tang would this be the start of WW3. I want to
keep the fish load down so this would be the only residents of the tank.
Thank you, Greg
<<In a large enough tank, Nasos are reef safe, in my
opinion... I would start with just one in a 100 gallon tank though...
and it will get along with the Sailfin... very different life
strategies... the Naso at the top, the Zebrasoma scooting around the
bottom...
Bob Fenner, whose tang pieces can be perused at the site:
www.wetwebmedia.com >> Naso Tang
Mr. Fenner, I have
an unusual concern with my Naso Tang. For some reason when he relieves
himself, even though he eats like a pig, he turns around and eats his
own waste. Seems to me that it cannot be normal, have any suggestions on
this problem?
<Actually, not a problem... not unusual with this
species, other related fishes (acanthurids in general), even some
mammals (lagomorphs/rabbits are probably the best example). Don't worry
about this coprophagous behavior. Bob Fenner> Re:
confused-urgent ich problem
Dear Bob,
When we put the little
Naso back in his home tank, he continued to look better and the next
morning his dark spots were barely there. He still looks good. We called
all over town and found a few cleaner shrimps. I wanted them anyway and
I hope they can avoid becoming an expensive lunch for the hermits.
<Yes, they should be able to co-exist... unless you have "mean" species
of Hermits... and/or both are hungry...>
I love that little Naso (not
so little). He's amazingly intelligent. I hand fed him Sunday as much as
he would not spit out while he was in the copper tank. Now he eats out
of my hand reliably. After yesterday, though, he turns distress colors
when he sees the net. I hope I can win his trust back.
<You will>
Thanks for all the replies. People tell us getting a UV filter will
prevent this.
<No... a myth>
Now I'm just hoping the shrimp and
fish "bond". By the way, your web site is an excellent source of info.
(I would expect nothing less given that your book was so wonderful).
<Ahh, thank you>
I can't help it. I love this fish. Thanks again,
Allyson
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>
Naso
Troubles
Thanks for the quick response! I apologize for asking
another (unrelated) question, so soon on the heels of the last one, but
I forgot to ask it last
time. I have a Naso tang who seems to be
wasting away. A friend took care of all of my fish for a few months,
while I was in between tanks. When I got them back a month ago, they all
seemed to be a bit on the thin side, but most have come back nicely. The
Naso, however, seems to look worse. He seems interested in food, and
vigorously attacks the sushi Nori that I feed every day, but he spits
out whatever he chews. He does seem to keep all of the frozen and flake
foods down. Is this something that you're familiar with? Can you suggest
anything? Thanks again, Dan
<Yes. Do try other "human intended"
(especially Rhodophyte, Red Algae (though they'll likely look green...)
species like Rhodymenia, Gracilaria... and soak all in Selcon (or other
vitamin prep.s like Zoecon, Microvit...) a good fifteen minutes before
offering them to your Naso... and some meaty foods you can suspend on a
"feeding spoon" near the surface... Bob Fenner> Naso tang
Mr. Fenner, I am worried about my Naso tangs. I ordered a medium Naso
tang from FFExpress and received a small one instead.
<How small? You
can read my numerous comments on this species, genus (Naso lituratus)
posted on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com... ones under three inches
rarely survive>
So I had them take care of the problem after some
initial problems and they sent me the medium Naso for free and told me
to keep the small one. So now I have two Nasos, but that isn't the
problem, they get along fine. It's that neither of them will eat a darn
thing. The little one was already skinny doesn't look thick like a
normal Naso) when I received it, and it will be two weeks tomorrow since
I got him. I have tried everything I have read in your book and received
some advice from others but I am still worried. I have offered the small
Naso the following: flake food I knew it wouldn't eat it, but I tried it
anyways), brown algae on a clip and tied to the live rock, red algae on
a clip and tied to the live rock, dried toasted Nori seaweed from the
oriental store section tied to a rock and on a clip, frozen brine
shrimp, frozen krill, formula 2, and today I tried live brine shrimp. I
even tried romaine lettuce on a rock and the Naso took a few small bites
but didn't really eat. Nothing seems to work, and for the little guy,
it's been almost 2 weeks. The big one about 5") and the small one about
3"), did not even bother to eat the live brine shrimp. I actually had to
scoop them out of the tank because they were just clogging up the water.
The only good thing I can get out of all of this is that they both munch
on the live rock I have about 100lbs LR) quite often, but I don't really
have any macroalgae growing on the rock. I have some hair algae and what
looks like the stumps from the seaweed that used to be attached to the
rock I think that's what they try to eat). But they can't be getting a
whole lot of food from that.
<Well stated, and taken... Do keep
trying to orient these fish to the Nori... with a clip near the water's
surface... in the front... of their tank... and do secure some "Red
Algae" (like "ogo", "Rhodymenia"...) fresh, frozen/defrosted, live... to
sustain them while adjusting to captivity... this is principally what
they eat in the wild>
I have had the tank up for almost 2 months and
water parameters are as follows: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0-5, ph
8.1, sg 1.024, temp 78*. The tank is a 125 and has plenty of lr(100+lbs)
for the fish to hide and eat.
All those water parameters have been
stable for about 1.5 months. From what you say in your book, my water is
almost/is perfect. Both fish are healthy and swim around, except the
little one, he doesn't swim around real fast like the big one does. All
the Nasos I have seen, seem to swim very
powerful from time to time,
and the little one just kind of waltzes around the live rock and
occasionally into the open areas of the water. They are both pretty shy,
and I can understand why. If I was kidnapped from my house in the middle
of the night, shipped to some warehouse, then sent half way across the
world to a LFS and kept in a tank with hardly any protection or hiding
spots and then put into a new environment, I would be pretty shy too.
But 2 weeks, and he is still very skittish when I move near the tank,
<Yes... they live in almost an endless space, just on/off main reefs...
over vast areas...>
try to feed the other fish he runs every time to
his hiding spot and won't come out for about 1-5 minutes), come on, I
think he is retarded or just really scared still. The freaking damsels
are running around and only get scared for like 1 second and then come
back. The big Naso was freaking out when I finally turned the lights on
later in the day when I got him. I took about 1-1.5hrs to acclimate him,
and had the lights off for about 3-4hrs, and when I finally turned the
lights on, he started swimming up and down and back and forth real fast
and freaky like. He kept banging into the walls of the tank and looking
like he was trying to get out or fight
himself in the glass. He is
cool now though, but still very shy, and only swims around when I sit
perfectly still. I have heard from so many people that Nasos usually
won't eat for about two weeks and then they'll eat just about
everything. They say don't worry, mine did the same thing, and now he
eats like a pig, eats out of my hand, and is fat like a little piggy.
Well mine isn't eating. He doesn't look like he is sick and he isn't
getting any skinnier. The bigger one is already a big guy pretty thick),
but not eating. He started munching the rock today got him yesterday),
but won't eat the live brine shrimp either. What I'm I going to do with
these two fish?
Just keep waiting them out and offering food every
few days? Or take action? You are the expert, and I remember your
stories about your time in the pacific dealing with fish export
companies.
<Yes... and still go there every year.>
You talked
about how you were walking around on Styrofoam boxes and dodging missile
jumping tangs. So I would consider you quite the expert, and your advice
about what I can do and how to do it, would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much, Ryan Fick
<Please do the above (continue to
offer algal foods) and read through everything on the acanthurids posted
on the WWM site... and have faith... I do believe the larger specimen
will "come around"... and have hope for the smaller one. Bob Fenner>
Stocking Questions?
Hi Bob! I have had a reef tank going for a
few months. 75 gallon with 90lbs of live rock and 75lbs live sand. All
levels look good and I have recently added some fish. Percula Clown and
Kole Tang. My question is over future stocking. I plan on adding a Flame
angelfish. I would really like
to add a Naso Tang as well. I would
start with a smaller one, but is a 75 too small for him? How long before
he would outgrow the tank? Thanks!
<Well worded... I appreciate your
cautious approach... a Naso lituratus (as this is likely THE Naso
species you're referring to) would likely do okay in this size, shape
system for about a year... depending on factors we could expand on...
Bob Fenner> Sick Naso
Hey Bob,
This is a new one to
me. I have had him for almost 4 years. Has had symptoms for about 6
days. Symptoms:
not feeding partial cloudy eye (getting a little
better) color changes from very dark to normal listless (except for
occasional swim) when swimming, bumps into rocks and corals seems like
he is blind.
possible poisoning? some kind of internal parasite?
<Maybe... but more likely a bad "bump" in the night... the tank top or
side... do try a water change, offering some Nori sheet algae on a
plastic clip...>
This fish stresses real bad when moved so I have not
moved him yet. Not sure what to treat for so nothing drastic right now.
Any help would be
appreciated . Thanks
<Agreed re the moving...
don't. Do try to be patient, and offer the algae, do the water change...
Bob Fenner> Sick Tang?
Hey,
My Naso Tang is a little
red around the gills. He is eating well and acting normal. The water is
at about 1.023 but I changed my water yesterday and before then it was
at 1.018. The ammonia is at 0 and there are slight traces of nitrites.
Is this a natural thing or is he sick. Also, I lost 2 turbo snail this
week. I think it was do to my salinity being low but I'm not sure
because I'm new at the invertebrate game. Thank You, Jonathan Pac
<Yowzah... this specific gravity change is way too fast... about one
thousandth a day is maximum... Be careful that you haven't depopulated
your beneficial nitrifying bacteria here... and take things much slower
henceforth... otherwise you'll have more than a Nasos red gill covers.
Re: Sick Tang?
Hey,
Well the tang died. I am going to wait a
week or two before I buy another fish. The only problem is that I don't
know what to add. I have a 55 gallon tank with 40 lbs of live rock,
protein skimmer, and a UV sterilizer. I have a flame angel fish, a pair
of clown fish, and a royal gamma. What should I add next? Thanks For
Your Help, Jonathan Pac
<Sorry to hear of your loss... Do wait a good
two weeks... and consider another, more suitable species of tang... an
exhaustive review of all can be found on the WWM site, as well as a
giant re-do of marine livestock selection en toto. Bob Fenner>
Naso Tangs
have a couple of fish that have white spots on there
body. I have a 110 gal reef tank. I set up a 6 gal hospital tank to
treat the 2 fish that showed signs of these spots "ick" 1 Blue Hippo
Tang and 1 Naso Tang. The Naso Tang didn't have as many spots as the
Blue Hippo but when I put them both in the tank after about 1 hour the
Naso started to fling everywhere in the tank and just croaked. This was
very upsetting. My Local fish store told me to set up the hospital tank
and treat it with copper and place the fish in the hospital tank. They
told me to do the follow. 1/Take water out of main tank to fill the
hospital tank 2/Add copper to hospital tank and bring to level .20 ppm
(after some reading I was a little unsure about the ppm level so I put
it at .10-.13 ppm just to be safe) The blue hippo has been in the
hospital tank for 24 hours now and doing ok. I also have 3 Percula true
clowns now showing the white spots on there body as well as gasping very
quickly for air. I am unsure whether I am missing something here as to I
am very new to Marine Aquariums and never dealt with any diseases. I am
afraid to put these little guys in the hospital tank because I don't
want them to die just like the Naso did. I know that ick is 2-3 week
moving parasite on the host so I wanted to wait and get a response from
you on how to proceed, or what I need to change. These guys normal diet
is frozen-live brine shrimp, romaine lettuce (for tangs) and Marine
Flake Food. My system uses a Wet/Dry Trickle filtration system and as a
SeaClone Skimmer also.
Any help as soon as possible would be
appreciated, as to I don't like to see these poor things pass away. Its
just really sad.
<<Who can say why the Naso reacted so negatively to
the procedure... these species do not enjoy small systems... a six
gallon is very tiny to them... I would have suggested a higher initial
concentration of free copper... more like .35ppm and never letting the
residual drop below .20... I would move the damsels, all other fishes
and treat them together... Do read over the "ich" pieces on the site:
Home Page regarding what to do with your main system going forward...
And do develop and adhere to an acclimation protocol going forward to
prevent having these problems.
Bob Fenner>>
Black spot (markings on a Naso Tang)
Bob, Just to confirm.
I'm pasting your description below. Yesterday, we had what looked like
tiny white spots that disappeared and moved around like bubbles just in
front of the lower/ventral fin. Now it looks like a fine black powder on
the ventral/bottom fin of our Naso tang. If this is "black spot" you
suggest fresh water dip. It doesn't look like a worm (I think someone
called it a small ciliated protozoan?) Dakin says it can spread to the
gills and they can suffocate. How long do we have before this happens?
<What? Do you have access to a microscope? I would scrape off some of
these "black spots" and take a closer look... they are not ciliated
protozoans (e.g. ich)... these are too small to see with the "naked
eye"... and moving about?>
The fish is visiting the cleaner shrimp
(they don't look too interested). Perhaps this will go away? It's weird
because within the first hour the fish was awake, it looks like some of
it has disappeared (not all of it). It always seems that diseases are
worse in the morning...is that because the cleaner shrimp pick things
off during the day?
Treatment:
Freshwater dip: adjust pH (w/baking
soda), temp, truly FRESH water or should we just have a slightly lower
specific gravity (e.g.1.019)?
Additives to dip: Copper we've got
Cupramine--what concentration?.2?)--perhaps some Methylene blue?
Formalin? Do any of
these things interact? If we have to choose,
which is the most useful and least toxic to the fish? 2-10 minutes?
Should the black spot disappear during this time? Should we just do it
for 10 min or as long as the fish can tolerate? I suspect he'll freak
out regardless.--some aeration Should 1 dip suffice? We've been getting
Caulerpa and trying to grow it from a friend's tank. Do you think that
might have transported it? He's got a yellow tang but it looked great.
One notable exception is Para vortex, the causative agent of "black spot
disease", notably of yellow tangs. This is easily eliminated via
freshwater dipping, though other authors suggest formalin baths and
organophosphate remedies. Turbellarians, a group in the flatworm Phylum
Platyhelminthes are mostly "free-living" non-parasitic species.
Thanks, Allyson
<This is not Paravortex... on a Naso Tang... maybe a
trematode/fluke... I wouldn't necessarily "treat it" unless
symptomatically this condition seemed to be seriously negatively
impacting this animals behavior. Bob Fenner>
Tangs
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Howdy>
It's me again
with another question I'm hoping you don't mind pondering for a moment.
<Not at all>
I've had a Naso tang in my 125 for about 4 months. He is
the largest fish in the tank at about 7 inches. We recently got a red
sea Sailfin tang, that is maybe 4 inches long. Since the introduction of
the Sailfin, the Naso's appetite has slowly decreased down to nothing,
and he's looking very thin. Do the two species not get along?
<Usually do... FWIW, their ranges overlap>
I don't see them fighting
at all. Everyone else seems okay, and water tests are good. Any ideas?
<Often Nasos do go "off feed"... a good idea to try other foods, and to
soak them in advance with a liquid vitamin preparation. Please read
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nasofaqs.htm and on to the many FAQs re
marine fish nutrition, foods, feeding. Bob Fenner>
As usual, infinite
thanks for any help you can offer. Tracy Naso Tang
Hello,
Recently got a Naso Tang.. it has white spots on it.. person
at LFS said it is because the tang is scared. Is that something that
really happens when they're just stressed, or should I be worried?
<Mmm... I would be concerned... the white spots... are they "raised" in
appearance? Transitional, or are they on the fish all day? Any other
fishes showing signs? Likely the beginning of an ich infestation. Please
read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm going on to the
links beyond as your interest, need leads you. Bob Fenner>
Lisa H.
Naso Tank
Hi Bob,
I have a question for you. I looked in the
FAQs and didn't really find an answer. 300 gallon reef tank and a lot of
live rock. Naso Tang -- the lituratus. Will he eventually munch down my
cleaner shrimp, or do you think he is safe?
<Generally don't eat
Cleaner Shrimp species... but might someday. Bob Fenner>
I want to
avoid any shrimp connoisseurs! Thanks, Dale. Re: Naso Tang
I bought A pretty good size Naso tang on Tuesday Oct.30.
He is about 6-8 inches. The very first night I brought him home I fed
him some frozen Brine shrimp. He ate like crazy, finished everything by
himself, he looked like a Vacuum. The next day he didn't eat anything
and today Nov. 1st he didn't eat a single thing again. He just passes
right by the food. I give him Brine shrimp, Seaweed Selects Brown
Algae and Spirulina Pellets and he doesn't want to eat anything. I even
tried some frozen Plankton. Is this normal?
<Yes, at least not
abnormal... do keep trying the various foods, especially hanging a strip
of algae near the waters surface... perhaps soaking it in a vitamin
preparation as a feeding stimulant>
If he wouldn't have eaten that
first night like he did I wouldn't be so worried about him not eating. I
would just think he is getting acclimated. All fish take like 3 days
before they start eating right but why would he eat the first night and
not anymore. He is healthy looking and shows no signs of any kind of
infection.
<Don't lose faith here. Bob Fenner> Re: Naso
Okay here is the new situation I was feeding my tang from a droplet.
When I took him out I noticed his vent was very swollen I pushed on his
stomach
gently and something started to come It looked like jelly I
looked a little closer and saw that it had a tiny vein so I stopped
pushing. I don't know what it was I didn't look like excretion or a
worm. I was thinking maybe it was his bladder and its so swollen that he
can't release himself. Just a theory I wanted to run this by you maybe
it is not a worm. If my theory is correct what course of action should I
take to resolve this if their is any.
If I'm wrong what is your
opinion.
<Just this fish's distended alimentary system>
Also about
the Epsom salt
1/2 saltwater
1/2 freshwater
2 table spoons of
Epsom salt per gallon
I have done that 3 days ago for 10 minutes as a
dip. You told me only once would work, can we rule out blockage? Thanks
always appreciate your quick response.
<Hopeful this fish will eat on
its own soon. Bob Fenner> Re: Naso
I know by now you are
probably annoyed with me. I have been reading all the articles on your
web page about internal parasites and worms. From the vent of my fish
seems there is something hanging out very little at first this is why I
thought the fish was constipated but after reading your web page over
and over and doing searches for internal parasites I have come to a
conclusion that my fish has some sort of worm. Don't know which one but
my fish is not eating and his stomach is getting bigger on the side it
looks like their are 2 pointy things pushing from the inside almost
looks as
thought they are going to go through his skin close to his
vent. I don't know what it is but I'm assuming it is either some type of
bone being pushed from the inside out. My fish is getting larger and I
feel that it is just the parasite getting larger I know my fish isn't
eating I stare at him all day.
<Not a bone... the condition, ascites,
can be due to a few causes... intercellular, parasitic...>
If this is
an internal parasite your web site is saying their is nothing that can
be done. Which is telling me that sooner or later my fish is going to
die?
<Mmm, sooner or later all life ceases...>
Is their anything
I can do to get rid of the parasite some type of home remedy or store
bought item that can be force feed to him? Please help me out I have
been reading for the past 3 days.
<There are anthelminthics,
vermifuges... like di-n-butyl tin oxide, Piperazine... are these
appropriate here? I would just use the MgSO4 treatment suggested... Bob
Fenner> Re: Naso
I'm sorry but I forgot to mention the
sometimes shakes kind of like he is saying no to the food. currently I'm
feeding him formula 2 flakes Is this good) and sometimes he eats small
pieces of krill that I feed my dogface. Should I try feeding him
something else. Sorry for being a pain.
<Please read over all the
articles, FAQs posted on our site (www.WetWebMedia.com re the family of
Tangs/Doctors, Surgeonfishes. Bob Fenner> Re: Naso
I'm
not sure if he has a bacterial infection. I was just reading about
parasites swelling up fish stomachs and it was treated with
antibiotics.
<No my friend. Just as likely to cause troubles.
Surgeonfishes have microfauna in their stomachs that they absolutely
need>
I just want to know what step I should do first I really like
my tang I don't want him to go into shock by treating him the wrong way.
No matter what I do I consult you or your website first. You are an
aquarium guru.
<Do try the Epsom. Good luck, life to you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Naso
I did like you said I used half a gallon of freshwater
and half saltwater
from my tank with two table spoons of Epsom salt.
I tested my water and the readings were as follows.
nitrite - 0
nitrate - 10
pH - 8.4
ammonia - 0
Gravity - 1.023
Should I
proceed with these dips once a day or is this one time enough?
<Once
should do it>
When should I start to rule out that its not
constipation? The tang has not eaten for almost a week I would think his
immune system is going to start to weaken and be prone to disease which
is something no hobbyist wants. I have read up on the tang from your web
page and have gained much information on them along with a dogface that
I purchased.
<Could be many other things afflicting this one
specimen... looking like "constipation"... none of which are "treatable"
in the short term. Hopeful/ly your Naso will resume feeding on its own.
Force feeding this genus is generally unproductive, but worth
considering... Bob Fenner> Re: Naso
How would I go about
force feeding?
<Some details of this procedure posted on "Lions
FAQs": http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lionfaqs1.htm>
Is this normal for
this species?
<Not normal to be constipated... very typical to
starve, die from stress from various traumas (mainly being in too small
volumes, capture, shipping/handling...), nutritional disorders due to
poisoning/loss of beneficial gut fauna...>
Can it be signs of some
type of disease in its early stage that can be treatable? Is it possible
for the tang to be constipated for some long?
<Don't think your tang
is constipated my friend. This family of fishes can/does pass large
amounts of living and not material with ease in the wild and
captivity... Strongly suspect "the problem" is something else. Bob
Fenner> Re: Naso
Bob I sent you an email yesterday
concerning my Naso tang that has not eaten in 3-5 days but yet his
stomach is swollen. I have been observing the fish it looks like he is
trying to go to the bathroom but he is not able to push out the
excretion. Do fish get constipated?
<Yes they do>
Is their
anything I should do or just wait it out I appreciate your responses.
Thank you
<I might well try an extended dip/bath in diluted seawater
(the system and half freshwater) and two tablespoons of Epsom salts
(magnesium sulfate) per gallon for ten minutes... might well "do the
trick". Please read here re such procedures first:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dips_baths.htm
Bob Fenner> Re:
Naso
Do you think I should try an antibiotic solution in the
water and when he starts eating put it in the food.
<What for?
Antibiotics are either for so-called secondary bacterial infections
(almost always due to poor water quality, subsequent trauma) or to
improve water quality to hasten cures otherwise, prevent further
infection... Do you know that your fish has a bacterial involvement? Bob
Fenner> Oh, no! I've got the "gimme's"! (desire for Naso
lituratus tang)
A friend of mine has a beautiful Naso tang in his
reef tank. He has variety of hard and soft corals and other inverts, and
the Naso pretty much leaves them alone (and also keeps the yellow tang's
ego in check).
<Naso lituratus mainly eats macrophytes (large
algae... principally browns and reds) in the wild... very rarely
cnidarians (stinging-celled animals)... and tend toward the large,
dominant sides of aquarium personality as you state>
Of course, I
fell in love with this big fish, and now I must have one as well! I just
want to make sure it would fit in with my other buddies: two false
perculas, five green Chromis, and a 1.5 inch hippo tang,
<This latter
specimen is small!>
plus some green star polyps, four colonies of
pulsing xenia, some blue mushrooms, a cleaner shrimp, astrea snails and
blue-leg hermits, and the four brown shrimp (Penaeus aztecus). I have a
135-gallon tank with about 110 pounds of live rock (no substrate), and I
can always beef up the water current. So can I put one on my birthday
wish list???
<Likely... it might "go after" your shrimp in time,
but... worth the risk IMO>
What other things do I need to fix before
I get one? Thanks! Gina
<Nothing in my estimation. Bob Fenner>
Ich, another parasite, or stress???
I recently purchased a Naso
tang that appears to Ich, but I'm not sure (I'm new to this). The Tang
had a few white spots which now only really appear when the fish turns a
darker shade of grey. What concerns me is that it now has some white
patches on it, as if it has been scratching. I have started to treat it
in a separate tank with Melafix and CopperSafe, I have also given it a
fresh water dip. I have noticed that it has not eaten anything
in
several days. Is there anything else I can do? Thanks, Kyle
<Maybe. I
would lower the specific gravity and stop the Melafix. Please read over
the ich, treatment, tang, tank troubleshooting... sections of our site:
www.WetWebMedia.com, starting here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/tanktroubleshting.htm
Bob Fenner> Re:
Ich, another parasite, or stress???
Thanks.....I am new to
saltwater tanks and have been informing myself as quickly as possible
through websites and local fish stores. Regretfully the Naso didn't make
it and the specific gravity is really high, so I'm slowly going to lower
that. Thanks for the help and all the info on the webpage.
<Mmm, good
to learn through as many inputs as practical... be chatting Bob Fenner>
Re: pls tell me your are online... (Naso demise)
So far he is
still alive.... 5 and a half hours after the move....
I also moved
the cleaner wrasse into the hospital with him. The cleaner has been
picking at Naso almost none stop. Naso even has ich inside his mouth....
He opens his mouth really wide... I guess wanting wrasse to
clean
inside there.
<Hopefully>
I am doing the SeaChem Cupramine
treatment... I did a test and it is at 0.15 for now.... I will continue
to test and adjust as needed (hopefully)
<Good>
THE PLAN:
I
will not buy more fish for the rest of the year.....
<Let's not go
that far>
I will however get a Neon Goby and maybe a fourth cleaner
shrimp.
I am considering dropping the Salinity if another fish shows
symptoms.
<I would do this pre-emptively. Like starting NOW>
If
not should I drop it anyway?
<Yes>
If I can afford it should I get
another tank for fish only and move all the fish over there for
treatment or just to simply let the tank fallow for a few months?
<The former is better>
Would a 55 gallon be enough for a purple tang,
yellow tang, 6 line wrasse, Percula clown, scooter blenny and a Naso I
hope?
<Yes>
Does a FO tank require more than natural light?
<No, not for treatment purposes. No photosynthetic life, no need for
extra lighting>
Or is that not necessary if no other fish show
symptoms?
<The system and its occupants do have the disease, whether
they are currently showing symptoms or no... your situation is
"in-between stages of infestation"... study the life history of
Cryptocaryon... as time goes by (just a few days) you will start to
evidence "multi-generational stages"...>
The ich would then be
considered in check with the current cleaner crew?
<Possibly... but
if/when "balance" shifts to the worsening of conditions for your fish
livestock/hosts... Bob Fenner> Re: pls tell me your are
online...
OK.... now to implement the SG drop.... Easy concept
but what is the best way? Is there a formula for adding a percentage of
change water with NO salt that will drop the SG by .001 a day?
<Just
an "eye ball" approximation of a proportionality... current water volume
to remove, replace with just freshwater...>
Should the Hydro meter
say 1.017 or do I have to be really precise and look up the temp
variations and such to get the exact salinity?
<Hmm, not necessary to
be that close to real salinity.>
Thank you ever so much for your
support my friend :)
<You are welcome. Anima bona fac (Lingua Latina
for "be of good life"). Bob Fenner> Ich Life Cycle,,,
adventures of Naso
Hey Bob,
I read about the Ich cycle a bit
more and came across some info about the Cyst encased in gelatin
stage....
<Yes>
I believe I saw one a long time ago....
<Not
visible to the "naked eye">
I thought that it was just mucus released
by one of the corals....
So could this have been a Cyst at the bottom
of my tank? It is/was about 1/2 an inch in diameter max. Is it safe to
suck it out during a water change every time I see one? I have seen one
on 2 separate occasions.... about 2 weeks ago and say 5 weeks
ago....Knowledge.... there is no substitute.....
Again your guidance
is very appreciated, Robert
PS. Do the cleaner shrimp eat ich in the
Tomite stage or cyst stage?
<They consume the encysted stages
minimally (and necrotic tissue, mucus...) on the fish hosts only. Bob
Fenner> Re: adventures of Naso
DOH!!!
<No more
Simpson's for you>
I am getting used to the type of
contradictions.... I hate that I had to learn the hard way like most
people.
<Not necessary, as you know>
Found this... they say not
good for reefs.... I am still in your camp... they gave no reasons
WHY!!!
Hyposalinity- This treatment cannot be done in a reef tank
with invertebrates, live sand or live rock. Hyposalinity is at 16ppt, is
highly effective at eliminating ich and surprisingly low stress. . This
may be the best therapy as it is not a dip but rather a long-term bath
that should last a minimum of three weeks. The treatment is more
effective (although copper can be very effective) and less stressful
than copper treatments. The only two disadvantages to using hyposalinity
verses copper is an accurate hydrometer is need (or refractometer is
even better) and you need to check the pH and alkalinity daily and add
buffer as needed. Most hydrometers are inaccurate. You need one
calibrated for reef temps and some large glass types are O.K. Stay away
from plastic swing arm hydrometers they are not often accurate.
Hyposalinity will NOT disrupt the biological filtration as long as the
salinity is not lowered too abruptly. If you lower the salinity using
two water changes a day for two days the bio-filter will be fine. The
bacteria that perform biological filtration are the same in FW or SW all
you have to do is acclimate them to the change When you are ready to
introduce your fish raised the salinity back up to normal over the
course of a few days to keep the fish from stressing from a quick change
in salinity.
<Some factual, other fictional material... Bob Fenner>
Naso Tang
Quick question. Today I noticed that my Naso tang was
breathing really heavy and was not eating. The other fish look to be
doing fine and so do the xenia, mushrooms, and buttons. Checked the
water parameters and everything seems fine. I am running a skimmer in
the sump and two power heads in the tank so they should be getting
enough oxygen. Don't know what to do? Please give me some suggestions
<the fish may be showing the early stages of a serious parasite
infection that has started in the gills. Please consult our section on
Wet Web Media on quarantine tanks for preparedness. If this fish needs
medication it will need to be done in a QT tank to be effective and to
spare poisoning your biological filter and calcareous media. Best
regards, Anthony>
Cause for alarm? (Naso Tang)
Hello Bob (or whoever is filling
the shoes today),
About 2-1/2 weeks ago, I moved a Blond Naso
into my main tank. After about 5 minutes, the Tang started darting
around the tank (lights off) and smashing into rocks and the glass.
<Not atypical behavior>
After about 45 seconds of this, he
settled down, and hid in the darkest corner he could find. He would
venture out every now and then, sampling the live rock, and all else
appeared well. The following day, the Tang had developed several
white "scratches" about 1mm wide and 4-5mm in length, all running
horizontal. I had pretty much attributed this to the "run-ins" it
most likely had with the various rocks in the tank.
<Agreed>
The scratches worsened over the next 3 days, covering the lower and
rear third of its body, and he started to refuse food. None of the
scratches appeared to be open wounds, thankfully. Not noticing any
obvious external parasites, I played the waiting game, and ordered
some Tang Heaven from the folks at IPSF, to coax the Tang into
eating again. After 3 days of not eating, the Tang began to sample
the Tang Heaven, but only consuming some. His stomach started to
fill-in again, which I took as a sign of improvement. The whitish
scratches began to fade, as well as about another third of his body,
and the Tang took on a very light whitish-gray color. I started to
worry about the possibility of an outbreak of velvet, but chose
instead to "wait and see". No further external signs presented
themselves over the next few days. Today, a week after the
introduction of the Tang Heaven, he has started accepting
Selcon-soaked flaked Spirulina again, and constantly grazes on the
Tang Heaven, live rock, snails, etc. I am taking this as a good
sign, but I am not convinced of being 100% out of the woods yet.
None of the other inhabitants show any visibly noticeable signs, and
are acting as they always have. I was wondering if you might have
any suggestions for anything I have overlooked. Obviously, I refuse
to induce any unwarranted stress on the Tang, but I would hate to
lose him to something I might have overlooked. (Picture attached)
And now, for the ever important tank information:
190 gallon,
2x99 DAS filtration units with skimmers. (Changing over to sump and
EuroReef within 2 months). pH 8.3, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate
5ppm, Phosphates <.2, Alk 10, Temp 80F. 1100gph and 700gph
powerheads for water movement, coupled with the DAS return pumps
(2000L/hr each). 15 gallon water change weekly, plus top-off.
Lighting 2X400W 12000K MH (8 hrs/day) supplemented with 2 NO
Actinics (10 hr/day). Kalkwasser drip to maintain Calcium around
400. 100 pounds live rock (more on the way soon), 40 pounds
aragonite, 120 pounds live sand (more on the way soon, as well).
Other Tank Inhabitants: 1 Chocolate Ocellaris, 1 Red-Lip Blenny, 1
Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Dragon Goby, 1 Scooter Blenny, 2 Engineer
Gobies, 2 Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Peppermint Shrimp, 2 Sand Sifting Stars,
3 Brittle Stars, 2 Anemone crabs with appear to have hosted with the
2 flame scallops, 3 Sally Lightfoots, and 4 emerald crabs who "live"
underneath a long tentacle anemone (fed a whole shrimp twice
weekly), 3 dozen assorted snails, a half dozen scarlet reef hermits,
as well as (I know you won't like these) a cucumber, and a
long-spine purple urchin. There, I think that's everyone. Corals: 3
varieties of mushrooms (identifying), anthelia polyps, another polyp
I am trying to identify, as they are overtaking one of the rocks, a
coral elegance, a green brain, and a Porites covered in Xmas tree
worms. Feeding done with DTs every other day, coupled with Coral
Heaven for spot-feeding. Thanks again for your assistance, not only
for me, but for all of us in the hobby!-Jim I neglected to include
one parameter in my last email: Salinity: 1.025 -Jim
<Thank you
for this detailed report of your success. Your being patient,
observant and pro-active in your food offerings has saved your Tang.
Bob Fenner> | 
|
Juvenile Naso Tang
Hey gang, just a quick question today. A
friend donated a very juvenile Naso Tang to me the other day. He's only
around 3.5 to 4 inches total length. He is already taking food; Mysid
shrimp, Spirulina flake and Nori soaked in Zoe.
<Ah, good... keep
this big eater feeding...>
My question concerns his coloration. Most
of the time he looks like a normal juvenile Naso should look. I have a
couple in other tanks, including a streamer and a blonde. However, I
have seen him turn very dark gray to almost black for extended periods
of time. I know, from the other Nasos, that this coloration often
results from the fish being under a certain amount of stress. Is it
normal for juvenile Nasos to become easily stressed?
<Yes... good
observation and telling. Quite normal>
He is in an 80 gallon tank
with excellent water quality. His tank mates include a small Flame Hawk
and a juvenile Dragon Wrasse. I have never seen any conflict between the
fishes. And I have very limited experience with a Naso this young. Just
curious as to your thoughts.
<Stress more from just being in
captivity and all it entails. But have seen small to large Nasos in the
wild change light, dark, mottled in appearance. Bob Fenner>
Thanks in
advance, Michael Mariani Naso Relapse...
Anthony,
I
have a feeling I'm going to wear out my welcome,
<no worries, my
friend>
but unfortunately I am in need of some advice yet again. I
used the search option on your web page but could find very little info
about my new problem. If you remember we have been going back and forth
about my blonde Naso, which became ill over the weekend. Well since the
transport into a QT, and subsequent treatment with Greenex which started
on Monday, his ich cleared up, his appetite increased and the gilling
ceased. In fact he was looking very good, up until last night. The ich
has come back, which isn't a big problem I was expecting that.
<indeed>
The new problem is that the poor guy now has cloudy eyes. To
be exact it looks like there is a kind of film which has coated the eye.
Also he refused food, both last night and this morning.
<secondary
infection or response to the aggressive Greenex treatment>
I searched
on WetWebMedia.com for any articles relating to this. Really all I found
were articles relating to exopthalmia, which he definitely doesn't have.
There is zero swelling around the eyes.
<agreed>
I set up the
quarantine tank using water from the main display. So my thinking is
that whatever was in the main display, to cause his sickness in the
first place, is still there making him sick.
<the water was
appropriate... the fish is immuno-compromised and brought it in on his,
er... person>
I was hoping that treatment would help this. Could this
be a side infection, initiated by the ich weakening his immune system?
<either or both>
Is this yet another type of protozoan infection? Is
there anything I can do, outside of a quick water change, to aide him?
Should I do anything?
<I still rank freshwater dips above all
including Greenex>
I realize this is a lot of questions. But since
I'm not out of the woods yet, I was hoping you could help point the way.
<no trouble... a common problem. Naso may still be quite fine in a week.
Easy on that Greenex please. It is cure or kill.>
Thank you, Michael
Mariani
<best regards, Anthony> Feeding a Juvenile Naso Tang
Bob,
First let me thank you for your book The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist. The information I have gotten from it has made it worth many
times the purchase price. That said here is my question. I purchased a
juvenile (3 inch) Naso Tang 4 days ago. I've tried feeding dried Nori on
a clip and floating. Frozen Formula Two, Also Algae pellets. He picks at
the rocks and gravel. However I don't believe there is enough growth to
sustain him. Any thoughts? Thank you, Dan
<You want to try to make
the prepared foods appear more natural. Try attaching the feeding clip
or the Nori directly to a small piece of liverock. Also, frozen Mysis
shrimp, plankton, and bloodworms are all good too. -Steven Pro>
Rapid Gill pumping....
Bob, or who-ever is kind enough to respond
to my dilemma:
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
About a week ago I
decided to add a small Blonde Naso Tang to my 90 gallon aquarium.
<already sounds like an "I didn't quarantine my fish and now they have a
disease" story...<wink>. Critical to QT my friend>
He's around 6
inches in length. Today I noticed that his breathing seemed very
irregular. The irregularity is just this; his gill pumping seems quite
excessive. Earlier today I performed a small water change, around 10
gallons. I didn't think that this would cause any kind of trauma
to the fish in the tank.
<did the rapid gilling commence abruptly
with the water change?>
I do this on a weekly basis. After taking
some readings I recorded a level of 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, less than 10
ppm nitrate, and a specific gravity of about 1.022. The ph level has
been pretty constant at around 8.0-8.1.
<pH is definitely low if that
is a daytime reading (pH falls even lower at night) Target 8.3-8.6...but
still it would not cause the rapid gilling>
His behavior doesn't seem
out of the ordinary, at least for what I have been able to notice from
the last six days. He swims all over the tank, but doesn't seem to pace.
He is eating quite a bit.
<all good signs indeed>
In fact it was
after his last feeding that I noticed the increased gill pumping.
<yes... usually a bit after a big feeding but relaxes shortly afterward
(hours)>
I tried to count how many pumps per minute occurred, but I
couldn't keep up with him. It is well above 100 beats per minute by my
count.
<while respiration varies among fishes, 100 per second is
fast enough to be concerned and to be on the look out for signs of
parasitic infection or other pathogenic cause. Do review quarantine tank
set up and procedure in preparedness of a medication treatment if
necessary. You will almost never want to medicate the main display (many
reasons... again, review FAQs in archives)>
I haven't seen any change
in his tank mate, a small Passer angel.
<very good>
Any
ideas....advice? Thanks in advance, Michael Mariani
Let's hope he is
alive to hear what you have to say.......
<continue with stable water
quality, good feeding and water changes. You may try a slightly lower
salinity to improve levels of dissolved oxygen if nothing else
(.001-.002 daily drop until 1.018 SG). Please spend your next $100 on a
QT setup instead of another fish <wink>... it saves money and lives.
Anthony Brown/Black spots on tang
I have a problem with
the tank and am not sure what to do. My LFS recommends using Greenex but
I have read of awful "happenings" using this stuff on your website. It
doesn't sound like you recommend it.
<cure or kill solution...
usually the latter>
I went home for lunch today and my Naso Tang has
very light brown/black spots all over him. It does not resemble black
ich. They are not round spots. It's hard to explain. . . never seen
anything like it before. I tested the water and it is perfect. He is
acting fine -- eating well and swimming. What should I do? Do you
recommend anything to try or just watch it for a day or so? No other
fish show these signs. . . I'm at a loss. Please help. . . .
<sounds
like Turbellid worms. Hard to cure but slow to kill fish. A bare QT tank
for 2-4 weeks with formalin and occasional freshwater dips would be best
for this before it spreads to other fish (mostly tangs, butterflies and
angels)>
Thanks!
<quite welcome. Anthony>
Young Naso tang
I have had a young Naso tang in my tank
for about 5 weeks now and it is doing great. I was wondering if this
species of tangs develop their bright colors as adults. My Naso (3-4")
is sometimes a very dark grey color with no other colors visible, to
light grey with a little yellow on the forehead. I have seen larger
Nasos with beautiful coloring. Is this normal for a juvenile, or is he
lacking some nutritional need? thanks, diggy
<This sounds like a
juvenile color pattern, but here are some care requirements for Nasos
just to cover the bases. When they are small, they need frequent small
feedings (two to three small feedings daily) due to a high rate of
metabolism. They also need a large tank with brisk circulation. They are
more of an open water fish and need a tank six foot long with
circulation ten times the tank volume per hour (example 150 gallons
needs 1500 gph actual rates). And lastly, read this for more info,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/naso.htm You are welcome. -Steven Pro>
Re: Naso Tangs. . .
Hello again. . .one more quick question if
you don't mind. I took your advice and decided to stop the Melafix
treatment. However, Monday when I had administered the Melafix I had
obviously turned off the skimmer. Last night I turned the skimmer back
on and it went crazy. It pumped out constantly and never seemed to stop.
After about two gallons I decided to turn it off. Should I use some
carbon (ChemiPure) to get the Melafix out and leave the skimmer off for
two or three days?
<A good idea, yes>
Would this be harmful to my
fish?
<No, more beneficial>
I just administered one dose (10
teaspoons of the Melafix) so it should be out in a few days, right?
<Not necessarily... the skimmer is/has removed quite a bit, the
activated carbon will remove most all remaining>
Also, regarding the
vitamins. . . should I be giving them vitamins (VitaChem) as regular
routine or only once in a while or when needed?
<Yes, once a week to
the water, as often as you'd like to their foods>
Thank you so much
for your help! Have a wonderful day!!!! By the way, bought your book and
love it! :) Loving this hobby again thanks to you!
Elizabeth
<A
pleasure my friend. Life to you. Bob Fenner> Re: Naso Tangs. .
. (more to fish health, knowing and the nature of the human experience)
One more question if you don't mind. . . how will I know when it's time
to move the Naso to a larger tank? Will he start acting unhappy? Signs
of limited swimming, loss of appetite, etc.?
<These behavioral
changes are hard to discern, but yes, all the above>
Also, off the
current subject, I am just very frustrated and don't know where to turn.
I love your website but frankly, I'm very new to this hobby (only about
9 months) and I don't know a lot about what I read. . .some of it is
very confusing and hard to understand. So, where can I go to get some
basic knowledge to help me understand and grow into learning this hobby?
<Though it is supposedly shame-faced to do so, I will plug a worthwhile
general (beginner-oriented) book on marine aquarium keeping of which I
am the author: The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. Available from
e-tailers, the large book-sellers, fish shops. Very worthwhile>
Frustration also exists in the fact that there are so many conflicting
opinions. For instance, last night I noticed a small spot on my maroon
clown's fin that looked like fin rot. I went to your website and found
basically conflicting opinions (in the chat room) regarding Melafix and
Maracyn. These are the only two medicines that I know of at all. I
decided to use Melafix (because it seemed to be a safer, more natural
product and the fin rot is minimal) but then this morning searched the
WetWebMedia and found where you say you don't recommend it so now I feel
like I've done something horrible.
<Mmm, not horrible... Understand
the nature of our sites as mere extensions of related human
experience... There are many (different) humans, hence opinions... And
that "aquariology" is not altogether a "science", but art and "voodoo"
as well... Embrace and revel in these
differences (really).>
What should I have done for the maroon clown
(have I hurt the other fish in the tank that are not showing signs of
fin rot?)
<I would likely have "done nothing" if just the one fish
affected, one spot...>
and where can I go to get GOOD, solid
information on treatment of diseases?
<There are books on the subject
(see Ed Noga's name on the Google Search), but with some general
understanding of what diseases are ("The Three Sets of Factors..."), and
good practice at picking out proper species, good specimens, some simple
dip/bath and quarantine procedures, decent nutrition, regular aquarium
maintenance, you are unlikely to need to know much or anything about
"disease">
I trust you, Mr. Fenner, from all of the things I've heard
and the books that you've written you are one of the few that I would
trust. I just wish you could give out your phone number! :) When it's
10:00 p.m. and you don't know what to do for your fish it's frustrating!
Please help and give me some guidance if possible. I apologize for being
so longwinded but I just am at my wit's end. I love my fish and want to
take the best care of them but I can't find a solid guideline to help
me. Is there a book that you've written that's kind of a catch all for
everything?
<Ah, yes. TCMA>
Thanks for your help! I appreciate you
so much.
<Glad to help my friend. Try to "step back" and enjoy your
experience, even the apparent frustration, un-knowing... all will become
clearer with time, experience, study, reflection, you'll see. Bob
Fenner> Re: Naso Tangs. . .
Thanks so much for your
words of encouragement. And, no, it's not "shame-faced" to recommend
your book -- I'm going to purchase it right now and am sure it will be a
tremendous help!
<Ahh, know you will enjoy, gain by the experience>
In your opinion would you stop the Melafix treatment and just watch the
maroon clown for a couple of days?
Or, would it be ok to continue
the treatment through? It's an herbal remedy so can it really hurt
anything?
<I would hold off on further application. You could add a
cleaner organism, supplement all the animals feedings with vitamins,
other supplements, but likely all is/will be fine w/o the Melafix>
Isn't fin rot rare in saltwater -- I thought it was mainly a fresh water
disease so maybe I have misdiagnosed?
<Lots of possibilities... "fin
rot" as in fungal or bacterial involvement in marine systems is very
rare as a "first order" involvement... these decomposing events are
almost always a result of system "collapse", post-death...>
None of
her fin is missing it just looks a line as been drawn across her fin and
from that line down (just a small portion) is brown and looks thin. She
still uses it and it's not folded to her side or anything. I don't think
any other fish are "picking" on her. . . she holds her own quite well
and seems very happy (not hiding or anything).
She also does
something that I don't know if it's normal for clowns or not...she takes
her tail and whips it around in the sand making a big sand storm (she
only does this in the evening though) -- she just recently (a month or
so) starting doing this. . . is this normal especially since there is no
anemone in the tank for her? What is she doing?
<Please read over the
WWM site re Anemones and Clowns:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/clwnfshanefaqs.htm >
Thanks for
letting me bother you again. . . you must really love this hobby to put
up with ALL of our questions! :) Take care.
<For love of the planet,
our species, myself am glad to share. You will do the same. Bob Fenner>
Naso Tangs. . .
Mr. Fenner,
<Hello>
Hi! How are you? I was
just reading an article you wrote on Naso Tangs and became concerned
about mine. I have a 100gallon tank -- is this enough room for my Naso?
He seems very happy -- eating well, actively swims, etc.
<Enough for
a smallish (hand-size) specimen... for a while... year or two>
How
fast is their growth rate normally? Will he eventually outgrow the tank
or will he adapt to tank size?
<Will likely outgrow... can go from a
few inches to several in a year.>
Thanks for any help you can
provide. By the way, I love your website -- VERY informative and
interesting. Thanks for all you do for us fish lovers! :) Elizabeth
<Glad to have you be one of us. Bob Fenner> Tank Setup
Hey Bob,
<Actually, you are "talking" to Steven Pro. Anthony Calfo
and I are helping Bob out for awhile answering the daily questions.>
Its been a busy three weeks since I last talked to you and a lot has
changed with my tank. My Aunt and Uncle who bought our old house decided
that they liked our tank so much that they would buy it. Its kind of
bitter sweet because I end up loosing my animals and the tank I have
worked so hard to build and maintain but now I don't have to worry about
moving the setup and I get to build a new larger one. Since they didn't
know anything about keeping marine fish, I lent them your book and gave
them a crash course in Saltwater 101. I've also been going over every
weekend to check up on them and supervise while they add fresh water.
Anyways my questions have to do with my new setup. Right now I am
looking at a 90 gallon tank. For filtration I want to have a sump with
an ETSS Evolution 500 skimmer. I also am going to have at least 90 lbs
of live rock and a 6 inch live sand bed for biological filtration. My
fish list for right now is a Naso Tang, 2 Percula clowns, a raccoon
butterfly, and possibly a juv. queen or emperor angel. Do you think this
tank will be successful with the filtration system and animals I have
listed?
<I would not get the Naso. They get rather large for a 90.>
You Advice Is Appreciated, Jonathan Pac Horse
for 90 gallon Reef Tank
Bob/Anthony,
<greetings regional
friend... Anthony Calfo at your service>
I was just wondering about a
recent purchase being acclimated to my tank. I am actually using my
wife's email account to check on something (because I'm not at the
office). I sent my wife to Aquatic Technology (she works in Strongsville
and we live on the East side of Cleveland) to pick up a small coral of
her liking (to try and get her "into" the reef tank).
<aha!...
flawed psychology, assuming that the gentler sex doesn't know what we
are really up to... hehe>
I also mentioned that she could instead buy
a small fish of her choice as long as she get permission from Greg at
Aquatic Tech (I trust his judgment on reef systems)
<Ahhh, yes. Greg
and his smiling face>
I armed her with the following: We have a 90
Gallon Reef Tank,
100lbs LR, 20lbs LS, Purple Tang, Blue Headed
Wrasse (you remember this question from earlier) and Clarkii, a blue
haddoni and a cleaner crew
consisting of some blue/red hermits,
snails, emerald crabs and some Sally Lightfoots along with some Corals.
She came home with a Blonde Naso Tang.
<holy cow!!!! what's up with
that beautiful baby horse of a fish?!>
Looks great. I read about them
today. Gorgeous animal -- however, after
reading from your sight, he
may eat my cleanup crew? Greg from Aquatic Tech told her that he should
be fine.
<I'm far more concerned that is a poor choice for an empty
90gallon let alone one stocked with fish such as your Purple tang that
will ultimately also outgrow it. I agree with Greg that there is a good
chance it will be relatively reef safe. But the fish is inappropriate as
it grows far to large for a four foot tank>
He mentioned that there
may be a squabble between the Purple Tang but that the Naso should mind
it's own business....
<agreed, especially if the Naso is larger>
he never mentioned anything about eating all the small inverts... is
there going to be a problem?
< a chance, but no more than a purple
tang or dwarf angel eating coral. Your blue headed wrasse is far more
dangerous to crustaceans>
What should I look for if I intend to keep
a close eye on the situation?
< an add in the newspaper for a good
price on a bigger tank, bud! Hehehe... I hope you can tolerate my
humor/sarcasm... there is truth in there. Kind regards, Anthony>
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