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FAQs about Live Sand 3 Related
Articles: Live Sand,
Marine Substrates, Deep Sand Beds,
Reef Systems,
Refugiums, Related FAQs:
Live Sand 1, Live Sand 2,
Identification, Selection/DIY,
Systems/Placement, Biota,
Maintenance,
Deep Sand Beds, DSBs
2, DSBs 3, DSBs
4, DSBs 5,
DSBs 6, DSBs
7, & FAQs on: Deep Sand Beds, Rationale/Use,
Dangers, Physical Make-Up,
Biological Make-Up, Size,
Location, Depth,
Conversion to/from, Maintenance/Replacing/Adding
To, & Sumps,
Refugiums,
Live Rock, Calcium, FAQs 1,
Lysmata amboinensis (De Man 1888), the
Indo-Pacific White-Striped Cleaner Shrimp or Ambon Shrimp. | /Lysmata/Lysmata%20HI%202%20stepMD.JPG)
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Re Live Rock/Storing For
Future Use 4/6/09
Also, do I just throw away my live sand, or can it be kept like the live
rock?
<You can put it in with the live rock, can't say how long the "live"
would remain under storage conditions. Personally, I wouldn't make the
effort. I would just store dry and try to sell. Might want to see what
your :LFS would be willing to pay you for it before doing
so. James (Salty Dog)>
Dry Live Sand 4/5/08
Hi I have a question regarding DSB's I
currently have two inches of aragonite sand and want to seed it with
live sand, my LFS told me to use pink live sand (not really pink
just called that) which is the type they claim to use on their tanks
which look great.
<OK>
My only problem with this is that the
sand is shipped like aragonite sand in that it is dry in a plastic
bag. I was wondering if dry live sand is just a scam or if the
microfauna is able to live dry?
<There will be absolutely no
seeding benefit from this sand, and for that matter very little from
water packed sand in a bag. The best thing you can do to seed your
system is to talk someone with an existing tank into a cup of their
sand or to simply add live rock to the system. Regards, Scott V. >
Re: Dry Live Sand 4/7/08
This question is for Scott V.
<Hello, with you.>
I Recently asked if dry live sand is at all
reliable as a live sand and upon further research found a company
that sells wet live sand by the pound which is perfect for me
because I only need about 7 pounds to seed my aragonite sand. They
claim that there live sand has lots off little pods, worms and such
but I wanted to ask if these beneficial beasties would survive the
collection/shipping process and make it to my tank. Thanks and I
will try to procure a cup of live sand from an aged tank!
<True
wet live sand will be of some benefit, much of the life in it will
survive shipping. Although simply seeding from another tank or live
rock is the easiest and most cost effective. Welcome, enjoy the new
tank, Scott V.> |
Live sand procurement 10/8/06
Hello all, let me
first say thanks for all of the info and help you have given me in the
proper set up, stocking and maintenance of my marine aquarium, I
couldn't have done it without you! I read approx 2-3 hrs each day on
WWM, and I enjoy every minute. I have a question regarding live sand in
which I hope you can be of assistance. I live in San Antonio, TX, and am
very close to the Texas gulf coast. Both of my marine tanks (55 and a 30
gal) have been set up with live rock and aragonite substrate (consisting
of crushed Florida coral in the 55, and aragonite sand -not "sugar fine"
in the 30). The 30 gal is just cycled at approx 6 weeks, the 55 about 4
months old. Parameters in the tanks are all normal (0ppm of ammonia,
nitrates, nitrites and phosphates, calcium levels are strong at 450-500,
and ph is a constant 8.2), the 55 has only 1 maroon clown, 1 yellow tang
and 1 lawnmower blenny with a small clean up crew consisting of snails
and such, the 30 is not stocked with anything just yet. Both tanks run
Emperor hang on filters with protein skimmers that achieve a good amount
of skimmate every day, water turnover is approx. 15 times per hour, both
run MH lighting of about 5w per gallon. I would eventually like to put
some corals, clams etc... in both tanks. I am considering replacing some
of the substrate with live sand, and I am considering harvesting it
myself from the gulf coast. My question is.... Is the sand at the coast
actually considered live sand? Can this be used? It is much cheaper and
also more enjoyable for me to drive a couple of hours to collect enough
sand, than it is to purchase 100lbs and have it shipped. What are the
pros and cons to my idea, and should I even consider it given my current
tank parameters? Also, if I do replace the substrate with live sand,
what potential damage might occur in my ecosystem? I have read that it
could be a disaster (fish kill off from anaerobic activity?) Any
suggestions would be
helpful.....Erick.
<<Erick: Anytime you
disturb a sandbed in a move, you run a high risk of transferring
sickness and disease to the fish (I found out the hard way when I moved
a tank that had been established over 2 years). Assuming you could find
a legal place to collect the sand, introducing it to your tanks would
likely cause a new cycle and could introduce harmful critters, and
pollutants, to your system. While sugar fine aragonite is the current
gold standard for deep sand beds, there are many people who do not use
it and have successful tanks. For example, I once was so freaked about
crushed coral causing my nitrates to go up that I pulled it out of an
established tank and replaced it with brand new sand. I was shocked to
find out after all that trouble that the nitrate level stayed the
same! Before that experience, I would have never expected those results
based on everything I've read. At this point, I think pulling sand from
the coast will be more trouble for you than it's worth. If you want
more diversity you can ask for a cup of sand from a fellow reefer. Best
of luck, Roy>> Redoing Substrates 9/13/06
To All:
<Hi>
I'm getting ready to redo my substrates in my 90 gal reef tank.
I have had problems in the past with nitrates sometimes high but can be
controlled with water changes. <Best method> Currently I have a 5 inch
crushed coral bed with underwater filter powered by one 110 and a 70
aqua clear power head on each corner. along with a canister filter and
skimmer). <What we call a nitrate factory.> UG filters are not used
much anymore for this reason, among others.> After reading endless
amount of info on your site I just wanted your opinion on what would be
the best substrates for me to use. I would like to stick with a
substrates for some of the goby's and other creatures that enjoy
digging. <I like using substrates in the main tank.> I was thinking of
going with 3 to 4 inches of live sand. <Good, sugar fine is best.>
I
have 75lbs of live rock that I use for my reef too. Should I use
underwater filter or just place the sand on the bottom?? <Sand on the
bottom, the UG filter will not work with sand.> And should it be mixed
with crushed coral or something else?? <Nope, just sand.> This seems to
be the most difficult question to come up with an answer for. There is
so many ways to setup a substrates. <Many different ideas out there, I
like a simple 3-4 inch thick layer of sugar fine sand.> I'm sticking
with mostly soft corals since I currently don't have a metal halide
light.
<Sounds good.>
Thanks,
J.R.
<Anytime>
<Chris>
Quarantine For Live Sand? - 8/10/2006
Hello WWM Crew,
<Scott F. here today!>
With the help of an
extraordinary amount of excellent input from your website, I am nearly
done putting together a new 135 gallon system to upgrade my old 40
gallon hex tank.
<Sounds exciting>
A quick
summary of the new system is as follows,
135 gallon (72x18x24") with
two 100% overflows and Ecosystem 3616 mud sump.
EuroReef CS 135
Protein Skimmer
Four 160 W AquaSun VHO's (with provisions to add
three 14K 150 W HQI pendants later).
Recirculation rate is roughly
2600 GPH (half through mud sump and half through separate closed loop).
<Nice equipment/system>
My plan for the tank is
to move over current inhabitants of the 40 gallon (Flametail Blenny,
Fourline Wrasse, Neon Goby, Purple Firefish, Diadema, two Cleaner
Shrimp, Peppermint Shrimp, some Zoanthids and Star Polyps) along with
its live rock (about 60 lbs) then gradually add fresh (cured) live rock
over time as additional critters - soft corals, fish and invertebrates -
are added to the system.
<This is a good way to stock...do it
gradually.>
I don't plan to move the existing
coral gravel substrate (roughly 5 mm dia.), as I have now learned that a
finer sand (say 1-2 mm) is a better choice. My current thinking is to
keep the sand bed to less than 1" thick (I'll consider adding a DSB
later if the tank "grows" into a full blown SPS reef tank over the next
few years).
<No problem. Just keep the shallow sandbed clean.>
My question is about the risk/rewards of using "live sand" (say from
Fiji through Blue Zoo Aquatics) versus a sterile aragonite mix "off the
shelf". It would appear that the "pro's" of using the live sand would be
the additional microfauna that would inoculate the system and provide a
more natural system and food source. But my main concern is for the
health of my fish (vis-a-vis the potential pathogens that may exist in
the live sand mix).
<Well, there certainly is a risk involved in
using anything "live" in your tank. If it's live sand collected from a
reef, I suppose I might actually be more comfortable than if it was from
a store or other established aquarium. On the other hand, if you do get
some live sand, you don't need all that much to inoculate your system.>
Would you kindly advise your opinion - is there a significant risk of
Ich/Velvet infection with live sand?
<Again, I feel a greater risk
of exposure to potential pathogens exists in a system using live sand
from an aquarium with fishes.>
Would the sand/mud develop a healthy
level of microfauna over time anyway (by the addition of cured live
rock) with the sterile mix?
<Absolutely.>
Would there be any
benefit to putting live sand in quarantine (for say 6 weeks) before
introducing to an existing display?
<If you could do that, this
would be the best way to assure as pathogen-free an environment as
possible.>
I have dealt with "the heartbreak of
Ich" in the past and want to do everything possible to avoid it during
this upcoming transition - your thoughts are sincerely appreciated.
Scott
<I certainly think that you're on the right track, Scott! Best
of luck with your new system! Regards, Scott F.>
Do you have
to replace live sand every so often? Yep 7/19/06
I have a 4
year old 55 gal saltwater tank with 75 lbs of live rock, 3" of Arag-live
Special grade sand and varies corals and anemones.
<... plural?>
I have been having a problem with my nitrate levels and noticed there is
a lot of tube like worms in the sand. The tubes are thin and covered
with sand and they have little worms that come out from the sand. When
you move the sand you can see there tubes that are heavily embedded into
the sand.
<Beneficial mostly>
I talked with my local fish guy
and he said you should replace your substrate ever 4 years? Is this
true?
<Mmm, better to add to, replace a part after a year and a
quarter or so... Ten, twenty percent every six months... to provide
soluble components, volume...>
I read the back of the Arag-live sand
and it said it never needs replacement.
<Mmm, better to replace, add
to on a regular basis... Most captive systems become overly "unbalanced"
chemically, stagnant in terms of bio-diversity, abundance... the
changing, adding of substrates helps forestall these tendencies>
I
was thinking about moving the live rock around and filtering the sand
underneath it to clean it up a little. What do you suggest?
<Reading:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/livesand.htm
and the linked files
above. Bob Fenner>
Donovan Flores Adding
live sand - 05/29/06
Hi crew,
<Hi>
I have a 90
gallon FOWLR with crushed coral at the moment. I'm interested in housing
Jawfish (Yellowhead) and wrasses (red Coris) and realize that they need
a sandy substrate. My CC depth is ~1.5" now, and my plan was to add
sugar-fine LS to a depth of 2.5" or 3". This results in a couple of
questions.
1. Would these guys be ok in a mixed CC/LS setup and this
depth, or do they need a complete sand substrate?
<The problem is
that the CC does not stay at the bottom, it will rise to the top of the
sand, making problems for the Jawfish especially.>
2. I've read up
on your site about the LS depths recommended (1" or less for decorative
purposes, 4"+ for DSB). I'm very diligent about regular water changes
(~15% a week w/ vacuum) and monitoring nitrates, so I'm more concerned
fish happiness than nitrate reduction.
<Jawfish make mostly vertical
burrows, so 3+ inches of sand is best.>
3. Tied to question 2, are
there additional drawbacks to this combination and depth I should
investigate further?
<I would remove the CC, and replace with
sand. A pain but really the best long term solution.>
Thanks for
all of your help and support.
Ian
<Chris>
How long
can I store live sand? 5/27/06
I have searched your
site and have not found an exact answer to my query. Recently I
obtained approximately 100 lbs of aragonite live sand from an existing
reef that the owner broke down. I'm not quite ready to tear down my
tank but will be doing so in order to swap out my system for a reef
ready tank in about six months. I'd like to keep the sand "living" in
storage if at all possible. I was considering placing it in several 5
gallon buckets with water and a lid to seal it from most of the air.
<Mmm, not this...>
The reason I thought of doing it this way was
to mimic the bags of live sand for sale at just about every fish
store. Is this the right thing to do or should I just let it dry out
completely?
<Neither>
Also how long will live sand
remain active if in aquarium water but outside of the original system?
<With proper care a few to several months...>
Any assistance that
you could provide with respect to this mater would be greatly
appreciated and keep up the great work on the site!
Thanks,
Dave
<Best to "store" this in "aquarium type
settings"... with some water atop the sand, it being recirculated,
adding a bit of food every few days... A heater if there's a chance of
cold... But the live components need oxygen, gas exchange, nutrients,
stable water quality. Bob Fenner> Live Rock/Live Sand, Collecting
Your Own - 03/14/2006
Hello,
<Hi Matt.>
I have been
reading postings on the importance of curing live rock. Are there any
methods (e.g. limiting exposure to air, container selection, collection
protocols) to employ in order to avoid the need for curing the live
rock; that is, if you are collecting your own?
<Well, all of the
above really. Some die off to be expected regardless. For minimum, I
suppose you could try duplicating the ocean during transit (flow, water
conditions, etc.), not cleaving organisms in two. Perhaps best to just
keep moist, preventing waste material build up in the shipping water.
Aside from this, are you sure collection is legal in your area?>
I
live close to the ocean and can make the transition from the sea to the
display tank/refugium in minutes.
<Would be nice, though I would
still plan some wait and see time.>
The water in the tank will also
be natural, collected from the sea.
<Not advised, see WWM re.>
I
would like to make the transition of Live Sand and Live Rock as seamless
as possible.
<Not advised for the sand either...also posted on WWM.>
As I have only just finished plumbing the system, I am now ready to add
water, LS, and LR to my display tank and refugium. Since it is an
initial startup, do you recommend adding all of the LS and LR to the
display tank and refugium all at once (125 gallon display/20 gallon
refugium -- not sure how many pounds of LS/LR I will be adding yet)?
<For typical start up plans, yes, best to start all at once.>
Also
can hermits/other sand sifters and macro algae be added immediately to
the refugium at startup?
<Not until a cycle is established.>
My
other question is this: What type of a maturation cycle should I expect
knowing that all the contents within the tank have been taken directly
from the sea (nothing is synthetic)? About how long
(understanding
approximately 1 month for most systems), if any at all, should the cycle
take?
<Hard to say, may experience minor or major issues. I'd expect
major if you use the water and sand.>
Anything I should watch out
for?
<Just the usual suspects.>
I understand my situation is
somewhat unique. One last question --Haven't seen a lot of info on
critter stocking schedule/protocol.
<No? All posted on WWM.>
Once the tank has matured appropriately (this timeframe still
questionable to me in my situation), how much can you stock for the
first time (this being a local fish and invertebrate tank). I have read
the rule is fish first, then invertebrates.
<Hmmm...covered also.
Not always the case.>
The intertidal species I will be adding are
pretty hardy to begin with. How long should you wait after the first
stocking before adding more?
<Depends how much you add at once,
generally a month or so.>
What should that amount be, the same as
the first stock?
<One - two fish at a time (first and thereafter).>
I just would like to have the initial startup go as smoothly as
possible.
<In this case, ditch the water/sand idea. Make
your water, purchase your sand. Start all up and let the cycle work out.
Stock from there.>
Thanks,
Matt
<Hope that helps. Do check
on the legality of your collections first. - Josh>
Marine Set
Up/Live Rock/Sand - 3/1/2006
Hey WWM, <Hey Johnny>
You guy's have helped me a lot in the past and was wondering if you can
bail me out a little more. <Will try> I'm in my 6th day of cycle [100
lbs live rock 20 lbs LS ]. I removed the bio balls from my pro clear 150
wet/dry from the get-go. And put about 5 lbs of live rock in the "now'
sump...not that big [should I put more LR in there?]. <No real need to.>
I keep reading about DSB in the sump but with my wet/dry I have that
blue sponge and I'm wondering how I would change it out without all the
sand going into the return pump area...or just leave live rock with no
sand? <I’d just use the live rock.> I am also lighting the sump with
the Coralife [2] 9watt marine mini light. <I wouldn’t have any lights
on until this tank is cycled, at least 28 days. Nutrients will be high
and you will be inviting a nuisance algae bloom.> The incoming water
into the sump [live rock area] is very turbulent, will this be O.K for
the live rock? <No problems.> just worried that it will be too rough to
put anything else in that area. Please help me out with some advice.
Thanks for all the help. <Johnny, in future queries please do a
spelling/grammar check. We just don't have the time to edit queries
before posting. Thank you. James (Salty Dog)>
Johnny
Do
you have a suggestion on how to get worms and small crustaceans to
populate my substrate? 1/20/06
I've got
nothing evidently moving in there. Started with 30# aragonite and 10#
"live sand". The live sand seems like a waste of
cash considering
that nothing macroscopic grew out.
Thanks
Dan
<A couple of
standard approaches include stocking "relatively fresh" live rock and
seeing what develops... and buying/seeding the established system with a
"critter kit"... the last from folks like Inland Aquatics, Indo-Pacific
Sea Farm... .coms. Bob Fenner>
Replacing Sand, Building Depth
Back Up - 01/05/2006
Hello,
<Hi there Anne.>
I've looked
through the questions but haven't come across one that answers
mine........
<Ok.>
I have been taking out small amounts of sand
during my weekly water changes (the last three times) that seem to have
Cyanobacteria growing on it.
<Hate it when that happens. You can try
a smaller diameter tube, should help.>
I'm starting to notice my DSB
isn't so deep anymore. Is it ok to add sand back into the tank a little
at a time to build this back up?
<Yes, and you're right, a little at
a time. When adding try moving small portions, add the new, smooth the
old back over. Don't bury the existing bed.>
Thank you
<Gladly.
- Josh>
Anne Canfield
Staff Research Associate II
California
National Primate Research Center
<Awesome. I love 'em!:)>
Live sand question 7/21/05
Hello,
Do you know what could
cause the sand to turn a rust brown color.
<Mmm, usually diatom
profusion... sometimes BGA, at times both... Please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/maralgid.htm
and the linked files...>
We stirred
the top layer up, and the next day it was back. Maybe
even worse. We have a 50 gallon, with live sand, and 2 clown fish. We
are trying to get started, but are waiting to find out why our sand is
turning orange. Any more info that you would need from me?
<Mmm,
what sort of source water, what do you do to treat it, salt brand,
methods for its mixing, storage... tank set-up, history...>
I am not
sure what else to tell you. I know it
s a salt water tank and all
the levels look good! Thank you!
Kristi Pekar
<Take the long
read, please, and learn to use the tool, collective experience which is
WWM. Bob Fenner>
Live Sand? - 06/20/05
Thanks for
that. When you say sugar-fine sand bed you are not referring to live
sand?
<<Nope. You can use any sugar-fine sand...even silica sand (I
can hear you gasp <G>.)...though I confess I prefer to use aragonite
when available. Just seed the "dry" sand with a bit of sand from your
mates tanks or from the LFS and it will become "live" in short order.>>
Also I should put some critters in the refugium as well correct?
<<Depends on what you mean by "critters." If you mean amphipods, Mysis
shrimp, copepods, bristle worms, and the like...then the answer is
yes...if you mean shrimp, crabs, small fish, etc. ...then the answer is
no. The latter defeats the purpose of the refugium.>>
Thanks for
the info you guys rock.
<<From this old rocker...Regards, Eric R.>>
Live Sand
Hello there, and thanks for responding to me. <You're
welcome> Sorry to bother you again with more questions. I talked to a
friend of mine and told him that I was going to live sand. He said that
I may want to keep the UGF for good filtering. <A sand substrate is just
too fine to be used with an UGF. You would have little to no water flow
through the lift tubes.>That sand don't do that good of job filtering by
its self. He also said that a live rock and live sand together would do
a good job. So would it or could I get by with just live sand? Just to
let you know that I will have fish only, unless I need live rock. Plus I
have a filter and skimmer. <Cody, you need to educate yourself on
different types of filtration and which one will be right for
you. Google search "live sand" , "live rock" and "wet/dry filters" on
the WWM and read all the info presented. You will then be able to make
your decision and be a more informed aquarist in doing so. James (Salty
Dog)>Thanks Cody
Restarting Tank...LR/LS Question - 06/09/05
Hello WebSiteMedia Guru’s,
<<Good evening>>
Not wanting to sound
too cliché, I very much love your site and all the great information you
have for all of us! Thank you already for what you have taught me while
reading through your site.
<<And thank you...happy to serve.>>
I
am ‘Beginner-again’, having had marine fishes a decade ago and recently
restarted a fish only tank in Nov ’04, and converted it to a combo in
March ’05. My biggest problem, currently, is an amazing growth of
Diatoms in an otherwise seemingly healthy tank ( based on the growth of
fishes and inverts ). If I don’t scrape the glass in 4 days, I can’t
look through it. Phos = 0, Nitrate = 0, Silica = 0. pH 8.3, SG 1.0024
<<Hmm...likely a result of your "conversion." Will probably pass with
time/good husbandry.>>
Being from the old school, I started the
set-up with a W/D filter ( 10 gal ). I now understand that is not
desirable.
<<Fine for the FO setup...no, not so desirable for the
reef.>>
Being ignorant, I also started the tank with my old
substrate (15 year old Dolomite!, yup, I can hear you now ).
<<tee
hee!>>
Sooo, if I searched your site well enough, I now understand
the following:
1) I need to change the Dolomite.
<<I would.>>
2) I need to add more Live rock.
<<More of a subjective issue in my
opinion. I prefer to leave lots of space for corals to grow, fish to
swim...>>
3) I need to get rid of my W/D media ( bioballs ) and
convert to sump only.
<<Another good move, yes.>>
Here is my
current set up:
Tank: 75gal
Lighting: Compacts 2-55 watt 10,000
2-55 watt
actinic-3
Filter: Remora Pro w/ Mag drive, 10gal Wet/
Dry Sump
Water circulation: One 200gph powered, internal
<<EEK! You need to increase your water circulation by 10-fold my
friend!>>
Substrate: Dolomite
<<Again...tee hee!>>
Live
Rock: 44lbs Premium Fiji
Fish:
1 - Foxface
1 - Molly Miller
Blenny
2 - Redeye Cardinals
Inverts:
1 - Fighting Conch
5 - Blue legged hermits
2 - Scarlet Hermit crabs
4 - Astraea
Conehead nails
2 - Banded Trochus Snails
2 - Cluster Dusters -
Feed Zooplex
1 - 6" Hairy Mushroom Polyp ( splitting very well ) -
Feed Zooplex
1 - 5" Candy Cane Coral ( Fiji ) ( splitting well ) -
Feed Zooplex
2 - Turbo snails ( haven't seen them in a while )
Plants:
Shaving Brush (not doing well, being eaten)
<<Your
Foxface said to say "thank you!">>
My questions:
Should I change
the Dolomite to live sand or other (what do you suggest? & how many
pounds) at the same time of adding more live Rock (I am scared!)
<<No need to be frightened <G>. Replace the dolomite with sugar-fine
aragonite (no need for live...will become "live") to a MINIMUM DEPTH of
4" (6" is better), and if you really think you need it, add more FULLY
CURED live rock after the sand.>>
I should remove the bioballs
slowly AFTER more rock and substrate change, yes?
<<Of small concern
I think given the size of your wet/dry, but it won't hurt either to wait
a couple weeks after the addition of sand and rock to pull the
bio-balls.>>
If my tank will have app. 90 pounds of live rock, what
is the sense of having a refugium?
<<Huh? Thought you said you read
our FAQs <G>? Start reading here and at the related links in blue, then
come back and tell me "why indeed?":
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm>>
Any other suggestions?
Keep reading/learning/researching. And increase the flow in that
tank!>>
Thank you very much, in advance, for any specific help you
can offer! Rainer
<<Very welcome, Eric R.>>
P.S.: My apology if
this is a copy of a post which reaches you - I have problems w/ my DIAL
UP provider and am using another e-mail account)
<<No worries
mate.>> |
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