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FAQs on Long Tentacle Anemone Disease/Health
Related Articles: LTAs,
Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones, Cnidarians,
Coldwater Anemones, Colored/Dyed
Anemones, Related FAQs:
LTAs 1, LTAs 2,
LTA Identification, LTA Behavior,
LTA Compatibility, LTA Selection,
LTA Systems, LTA Feeding,
LTA Reproduction,
Anemones 1, Anemones 2,
Anemones 3, Anemones 4,
Bubble Tip Anemones,
Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis,
Aiptasia Anemones, Other Pest
Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes,
Anemone Reproduction,
Anemone Lighting, Anemone Feeding,
Anemone Systems,
Anemone Identification, Anemone
Compatibility,
Anemone Selection,
Anemone Behavior,
Anemone Health,
Anemone Placement, | 
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Long Tentacle Anemone/Systems/Health 9/5/09
<Hello Matt>
Let me start by giving my Parameters, Nitrate 20 Nitrite 0 ph 8.4 and
Ammonia 0.
I have a 20 gallon Saltwater tank with 20 Lbs. of LS and about 15 lbs.
of Live rock (not much I know but it costs $10.99Lb where I live). I
have 2 Yellow Tail Damsels, 2 Percula Clowns and a Royal Gramma, with a
Chocolate chip Star, 2 Peppermint Shrimp and a few turbo snails for
cleanup.
<Would not add any more fish, you are stocked to the limit and then
some.>
Right now I'm <I'm> using 2 50/50 18 Watt Compact florescent lights. Now
to my main question. I have a long tentacle anemone I bought from my LFG
<LFS> yesterday, It has a bring orange base with brownish tentacles.
<Tank to small for keeping such, and your lighting is no where near
enough to keep this animal alive, and your fish are at risk, especially
in such close quarters.>
My problem is he wont grab a hold of anything, When I first put him in,
the current kind of moved him around and he finally started to sit
still. From what I can tell his foot hasn't grabbed any part of my tank,
He wedged his foot under some LR I have but the base isn't touching
anything. From yesterday evening till this morning he's moved a few
inches but nothing much, and his reactions to me touching a tentacle
seems a little slow. The tentacles and foot are still sticky but I want
to make sure everything seems okay. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Also on a side note have you ever seen a yellow tail damsel host on an
anemone?
<Yes.>
My clowns wont go near but my Yellow Tail sleeps inside of the middle,
Kind of Odd if you ask me.
<The clowns are likely tank bred/raised and generally will not associate
with anemones. I'm guessing you are new to this hobby and are not aware
of the difficulty in keeping an anemone alive for any length of time.
Joyce Wilkerson, P.E., once conducted a survey as to the above.
The survey from volunteers showed that 45% of anemones kept by hobbyists
with less
than 2 years of marine aquarium keeping experience were dead after an
average of 3 months.
Those hobbyists with 2-5 years experience were not a lot more successful
with 30% of the anemones dying in an average of 7 months. Only 5% of
those surveyed with 2-5 years experience had kept their anemone for two
years or more.
Even among hobbyists with more than 5 years experience, 36% of anemones
kept were dead after an average of 8 months. One in 6 anemones in the
survey reached the 24 months in captivity milestone.
Only one out of every 13 anemones in the survey had been in captivity
for 3 years or more.
One in every 32 reached 5 years in captivity.
In my experience, a high percentage of the "one in every 32" were likely
Entacmaea quadricolor, the Bubble Tip Anemone, which are a little easier
to keep and less light demanding.
I suggest you return the anemone, it will just cause you more problems
when it dies, will poison
the water and likely kill your fish.
Do read/learn here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
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LTA foot torn by Clarkii? Reading... 7/24/09
I found this site when trying to look up information on how to handle
this situation. The LTA we picked up yesterday
<... Anemones are not easily kept...>
was looking good in the tank we got it from, and ours after acclimating
it to our tank. (55 gal. originally in same spot for 9+ years, just
moved 2 months ago to different area in house - took only a couple hours
to move it all, 2 smaller lights (50/50? - tired so can't remember) and
a 175 halide light, parameters: 80F, 1.021-1.022
<Too low...>
salt reading, 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate, 8.2 pH, 400 calcium last
check at local fish store - we don't have a calcium test at home yet;
fish: 1 Clarkii, 1 yellow tail blue damsel, 1 cleaner shrimp, 1
peppermint shrimp, 1 emerald crab, some snails & hermit crabs). The
clown took to it immediately after it was put in the tank water.
Overnight it moved into the live rock leaving it's tentacles facing out
towards the open front. The Clown was still staying all over it. When I
came home I noticed some white coming off it's foot and since it wasn't
attached to anything carefully moved it to the open to inspect it.
that's when I saw the tear - which was not there when we picked it up
from the fish store yesterday. I am assuming that possibly the clown
beating up on it while it laying in the live rock unattached might of
caused the tear?
<Maybe>
I can't think of anything else since it wasn't there before. The color
is still the same, but it's expelling white stuff out of the foot now
where the tear is.
<... this animal is on its way out... as in muerto>
We don't have our quarantine tank anymore (mother- in-law needed it as
theirs ended up with a crack in it) so I carefully placed it in a bag to
float at the top of the tank so it's still under the light.
<...? A poor idea>
Trying to read online if it is safe to keep it in the tank with the fish
since it isn't losing color and not gooey,
<... dying, dead>
or what other action should be taken. I've attached pictures starting
with how it was yesterday, up until it was placed into the bag. I'm
afraid if I do put it back in the tank (not in the bag) the clown will
continue to beat on it, thus not helping the situation. (The Petco bag
it's in was an extra bag I had - we did not get the anemone from Petco).
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Amanda M.
<... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
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Re: LTA foot torn by
Clarkii?... still not reading 7/25/09
Thanks for the prompt reply. As far as the bag it was either leave it in
the main tank and risk losing other stuff or get it out -
<... this animal should not have been purchased in the first place...
You have not shown evidence of "being ready" to take care of a large
actinarian species>
I got it out. I did have a friend call me back shortly after and had a
spare running saltwater tank with no fish (their emergency tank) and
they put it in there for me.
<... there is almost no likelihood of it reviving>
They lave the tank running 24/7 and make sure its parameters are
pristine in that tank They emailed me last night that it started having
stuff coming out of it's mouth. So unfortunately it did pass. Everything
in our main tank is doing excellent though so I think I caught it in
time.
Amanda Moore
<Going forward... please seek qualified input... ahead of purchasing
livestock... BobF>
Re: LTA foot torn by Clarkii?
7/25/09
We received it from a friend that sold their tank and the person was
turning it into a freshwater one. Unfortunately we don't know the full
history on it - and it was free. It was either we took it or the person
who took the tank would of probably thrown it away or dumped it in
freshwater. Otherwise we would not have ended up with an anemone so
quickly. I'd rather buy the fake ones from Foster & Smith and see if the
clown plays in those before buying a real anemone personally. I know
it'll be well over a year before we even consider buying one, and when
we do it'll be through our LFS which are all saltwater guru's.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Amanda M.
<... please read where you were initially referred, don't write... The
basal disc of the animal pictured was torn... through removal?... One of
your pix shows it was put in with a Plerogyra sp... allelopathy?...
Read.
B>
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LTA wound pic + bonus, decapod
spawn release 6/27/09
Hi Bob,
<D-ster!>
Once the lights went out I was able to get a shot of the injury I mentioned
in my previous email.
<Good pic>
While I was at it I saw this too. Holy Stomatopod banquet Batman! Is that an
M. sculptus spawning?
<Appears so>
It was standing there like that for about 10 minutes, shakin' its booty. If
so, can I expect lotsa little crabs?
<Mmm, highly doubtful... may not be fertile, and even is so, the young going
through instars/developmental phases aren't likely to survive recirculation,
the skimmer... and what to eat?>
By the way, the mantis lives in a small hole just below the crab's leftmost
foot - it didn't seem interested. There was a note on the hole that read,
"out for lunch."
<Me too>
D
PS - I've got a 6-pack of Tiger here for you the next time you're passing
through Kuala Lumpur. Shoot me an email.
<Dang! I was supposed to be there till 6/21... another story, time>
PPS - I hope approx. 200K is not too big a pic for your inbox.
Apologies if so, I wanted to sent fairly resolved images.
<No worries Darryl. G'night mate. BobF>
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Re: Substrate and blenders do not mix - New development-help, LTA...
Long Tentacle Air-filled Anemone 2/21/09
Hi, <Hi Again Ram.> Thanks for the prompt reply. The water has
cleared up a bit now. I've added the live rock back to the tank from the
tub; but now I have a new problem. <Ok, lets see what we can do.>
I had kept my purple long tentacle anemone in a separate tub because I
didn't want it to sting my corals. <Good Idea> I added a separate
air stone for that tub. Now, somehow, the anemone had attached itself
around the air stone and it got filled with air and started floating
at the surface. <Uh-Oh!.....> I took it out, put it in the main
tank and held it under water and shook it gently and air bubbles started
coming out of it. still it had some air inside which i was not able to
get out. I left it for an hour and it attached itself to the glass but
part of it is still swollen with air and it's sticking out of the water.
Will it be able to expel the air by itself or is my lovely anemone
doomed forever? <The can expel air with time, good conditions. You
need to coax the anemone deeper into the water so that none of it is
exposed to air, and then get it orientated so the air bubble can escape,
which is normally through its mouth. That said, unfortunately, I am not
optimistic about its survival> Thank You. <You're welcome, do let
me know how it turns out.> <Mike> <<Hey, I'm happy to let you guys
now that the anemone seems perfectly healthy now. It has attached itself
to a rock and it is fully open. I have added the fishes back to my main
tank and the tank is looking beautiful as ever. Thanks a lot guys. I
owe you big time for your support. >> <Hi Ram, Glad to hear that
everything has worked out. Mike>
Anemone Decline (allelopathy) and leather coral question (sys.)
12/5/08 I purchased live rock from an aquarist who was
moving and it included a long tentacled anemone and clarkii clown. The
anemone has done fine for about a month, moving to his own spot and
staying for most of the time. The clown often feeds him from formula
two and pieces of chopped krill that I place in the tank. <Ah, good>
Two days ago the anemone moved two feet across the aquarium under a rock
and began getting smaller, different than the usual fluctuations. He has
now moved further under the rock and totally withdrawn and emitted a
pile of mucous. <Needs to be moved... now> He hasn't distend
anything from his mouth but doesn't open to feed or move into the light
for the algae to produce food. I've read the FAQs and other answer, but
can't seem to find out what the problem is. <A "lack of agreement"
with some other form of Cnidarian life here... in a word, Allelopathy.
Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm and possibly
elsewhere on WWM re Anemones, Macrodactyla in particular if you don't
understand enough what is happening here, the need for action.> I
don't want to give up on him prematurely but don't want to risk harm to
the other inhabitants. Any thing I can do to help him out or sure way to
tell when he's dead (assuming the hermit crabs won't start eating him as
a sign). <You don't want to wait this/that long> My second
questions is regarding a small leather coral 1 1/2" long that was on the
live rock. It was partially covered by algae film. I removed the film
and placed in in my nano tank. It was knocked off the top of the reef by
a fish or crab and fell to the rear. I left it there since I wanted to
minimize stress of repeated touching and movement. Now it has grown a 1"
long stalk and attached to the rock, and all feelers extend. My q is
there anyway to relocate it (it is towards the back and difficult to
see) or is it better to leave it alone? Thanks, Sid <If in a
"very bad spot" I would move it... it cannot move itself. Bob Fenner>
Anemone non-dilemma... sys./Macrodactyla reading 7/24/08
Sherlo Hi WWM Crew <And to you> I am writing you from South
Africa and have a very new setup. We started off with Tropical many
years ago and have now moved on to Salt Water. We have a 200gal
Reef Tank setup with about 100Kg Kenya Live Rock and have recently
introduced Livestock, namely 2 x Yellow Tangs (wish I'd known about
the bullying!), 3 x common Clowns, 1 x baby Blue Tang, 3 x Cleaner
Shrimps, 1 x Red Hermit and 1 x Red base LTA. [The Yellow Tangs have
toned down a bit since the introduction of the Clowns]. <Uhh...>
We test the water daily and our latest results are Ammonia - 0,
Nitrates - 10, Nitrites - 0, PH - 8.2, SG - 1,023 and KH - 10. There
is plenty of oxygenation and there are no 'dead spots' relating to
the Powerheads anywhere in the tank. We are running T5's (12
hours/day) and Metal Halides (8 hours/day). All the fish look
healthy and are eating fine. My problem rests with the sole Anemone
that we have. The green tentacles are inflated and sway nicely in
the current but it keeps falling over and resting upside down or
sideways. <... this is ofttimes called the "Sand Anemone"...
please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
re Macrodactyla, and the linked files above...> On first
introduction, we placed it on a rock in the middle of the tank in
good sight of the halides and with plenty of current but it "fell"
down to the substrate. <...> I reluctantly moved it back to a
rock higher up to the lighting but it does not look like it has
anchored itself properly and there is some furry substance around
the red base. Also, none of my clowns are interested in it at all! I
am very concerned about it and am wary of the addition of more
anemones at this stage. <... More? A very poor idea... again,
please search, read before writing...> Regarding the attached
pic, today, the anemone is now resting with the red base hanging
over the left side of its rock ledge and the tentacles are holding
on to the rock. I look forward to your advice! <Read. Bob
Fenner> Best Regards Tammy Knott | 
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LTA/Health 3/27/08 Hello, <Hi> I recently purchased a Long
tipped <Tentacle> Anemone, Macrodactyla doreensis, and it seems to be
doing well. It ate chopped shrimp right away. My question is, is it
normal for the anemone to "wilt" when the lights are off. <Yes.> I
will leave the lights on tonight just in case. <Do read here and
linked files above for info on keeping this anemone.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacle Anemone/Health 4/4/08 Hello, <Hi> I wrote
nearly a week ago for info on my Long Tentacle Anemone, <Is best to
reply with original email, I would know then what has already been
said.> and woke this morning to find it upside down with its
tentacles completely withdrawn. After turning it right side up, it
perked up a little, and even more when I held it in my hand close to the
light. I now think it is dying after it didn't respond as fast as usual
to food. It was really to people's fault. The salesperson told me that
the animal was hardier than the Bubble Tip Anemone, <Care level is
about the same between these two.> and would be fine being fed
chopped shrimp. It was my fault buying it without researching it first.
<Bingo.> I was resolved to feed it every other day with chopped
shrimp <Too often.> knowing that my lighting was very
insufficient, but I suppose without the light, I should have been
feeding it at least once a day, or better yet, letting the fish store
keep feeding it. <Food is NOT going to compensate for lack of light.>
I also think the lack of a protein skimmer played a role in its likely
demise. <Lack of research played the biggest role.> I can only
hope that upon returning home after school today that it will be
unfurled in all it's beauty. <Mmm, may want to stay at school a
little longer. You mention nothing of your system, lighting, etc. I'm
assuming your light is no where near the required intensity and your
system is lacking in proper filtration, including a protein skimmer. Do
read here and learn what is needed for keeping these animals.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/5/08 Actually, my luck held
out. I just returned home to find my anemone completely and beautifully
unfurled, like nothing had ever happened. <Good so far.> I am soon
going to be purchasing a protein skimmer from the pet store I work at
(Oh the wonders of the employee discount), and also plan to look into
lights. Although I cannot give you the pH or Nitrate/ite because I have
never tested them sadly, <The test kits should have been the first
thing you bought.> my salinity is at 1.0215 and I have four 25 watt
bulbs for my 125 gallon tank. <Yikes!> Would it be possible to put
the special lights only on the side the anemone prefers? <Would be
much better than you have.> And secondly without adequate light and
feeding with regularity (once every 3 days) how long can I expect it to
last? <A few weeks at most. By then it's health will more than likely
be irreversible. Is best not to buy an animal if the means and knowing
how to take care of it are not present.> Just to know so I can get
moving on the skimmer and lights. I'm so happy it looks as healthy as it
did at the pet store! <The lights should be your first priority, then
a skimmer. What other filtration methods are you using? James (Salty
Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/8/08 The filtration in the
tank consists of two Emperor 400 power filters on each side of the tank.
Are the 4-7 week ph/ ammonia/ nitrate/ite in-tank test kits effective?
<If you are referring to the Mardel Live Meter, they are for freshwater
tanks only. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/10/08 The anemone is
looking healthy, and until I can buy better lights I have put both
sets of lights over the anemone. Thanks for all of your help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Long Tentacled Anemone/Health 4/11/08 I actually forgot
one thing. I work at a pet store and I hope you guys don't mind that
I recommend you for any fish questions that I can't answer. P.S.-did
you enjoy the pics? <Is our purpose and yes, the pics were nice,
thank you. James (Salty Dog)> | 
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LTA? is it too late?
Hlth... 2/10/08 Hello, super site! <Hi, Mike I
here> We are new to the saltwater tanks and so far so good - but, in
the section of your anemone discussions . . . I was unable to avoid
contacting you. <OK> The day we bought our clown and anemone (
pink long tentacle w/neon green highlighting throughout and a white base
) together all was GREAT! ! ! <White base does not sound like a Long
Tentacled Anemone, but with you so far> It's been a few days now and
the Clown is eating part of the anemone. <Yikes! Doesn't sound good
if I'm understanding what it may be eating> At first, he fed it and
slept in it and wouldn't leave the area. Now, he explores some while the
anemone looks like it will die. It is curled into itself a lot and I am
worried. The only difference to daily feeding has been a recent
treatment of purple-up and marine snow for the others in the tank. Was
this why? <Could be a number of things> How long does/should it
take for the anemone to put it's foot down? <Almost immediately if
healthy> I might be the reason it is in this state . . . what to do?
DeAnna <Anemones are delicate little things, and not something that
should usually be attempted to be kept until a little experience has
been built up. You haven't stated your water parameters - would be
helpful, as would details of your set up. List of other inhabitants too
perhaps. How long have you owned the animal? Some pictures may help too.
There are many reasons why anemones fail, and it may seem I'm asking for
than giving, but is essential to try and provide more help. Mike I>
Shriveled Anemone
Macrodactyla doreensis Declining Quickly – 2/03/08 <Hello
Mike, Brenda here!> I have an M. doreensis which is not doing
very well at all. I've had it for about one year and it's gone
downhill since it first arrived. <Ouch!> Long story short, the
LFS (my FORMER LFS, I should add) gave me bad advice on just about
everything. <This is not unusual. It is best to research
everything before you purchase.> These last few months, I've been
working on improving pretty much everything including an RO/DI unit,
which I installed last week. My lighting is now PC, 260W on a
55-Gal. <This lighting is border line for this anemone. Metal
Halide or T-5 with individual reflectors is best.> Theoretically
this anemone should be happier. <I disagree that this anemone
should be happy. It has lived a year in an inadequate environment.>
However, I think I may be too late. My once beautiful specimen is
now bleached, shriveled up to the size of a cocktail wiener and its'
mouth is all inverted outwards and puffed out. <Yikes!> It has
no more tentacles. <This is a sign of starvation.> Before its
mouth puffed out, it had been accepting small pieces of
Selcon-treated shrimp (though it ate very slowly). <What size
portions?> Is there anything I can do to help it get better?
<I would try super tiny (sliver size) portions of silversides.>
How can I feed it if its' mouth is inverted? <Just lay the food
near the mouth, without touching the anemone. What are your water
parameters, such as temperature, salinity, pH, calcium and
alkalinity? What other livestock do you have in there? Are there any
clownfish hosting it? What protein skimmer are you using? Are you
running fresh carbon? If you can, send me a picture of this
anemone.> Thanks, Mike <You’re Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Macrodactyla doreensis Declining Quickly – 2/03/08 Hi
Brenda, <Hi Mike!> WOW...quick response!...thanks! <You’re
welcome!> Well, the moral of the story is that my research
methods have improved greatly. <Good to hear!> However, at the
time I bought the anemone, I thought that the LFS owners'
recommendation was 'good enough' research. I DID ask many
'right' questions...was it robust enough for a newbie...would it be
OK in my relatively new tank etc. I DID trust this LFS; so I bought
it ($70.00). It WAS beautiful. (see pic) The LFS actually told
me, flat out, that the 48", 40W, single-bulb fixture that came with
the kit was plenty of light and that "lighting is a gimmick
designed to rip you off". <YIKES! This LFS should not be selling
anemones! There are a few things I’ve found when speaking to the
people at the LFS. These include things such as, they lie to you, to
get your money, they sometimes don’t know the care and requirements
of anemones, nor do they themselves have the proper environment to
keep them, and on very rare occasions I have found someone that is
honest, and knowledgeable in anemone care. Always question and
research before you purchase.> As you can see by that 'after'
pic, it's been a rough ride for that poor thing. <Sure has!>
Actually, the tank has been a rough ride for many inhabitants as I
struggle to improve things. I'm battling ICH and HLLE on 2 hepatus
tangs and along for the ride in the 20Gal hospital tank are 2 clowns
(false perc, I think) and a royal Dottyback (all 3 seem to be doing
OK). The 55 has been fishless since Dec 15th. Remaining are 2
brittle stars, 2 Pacific cleaner shrimp, 1 Blood Red shrimp, 10 or
so snails and 10 or so hermit crabs mostly blue-legged and a few
Scarlett. <Crabs can be predators to anemones.> There is also
a small anemone (probably majano) that I enclosed a pic of. <Yep,
that is a Majano, a pest anemone.> Finally, a small amount of
Anthelia. In December, I decided to set up the hospital tank and try
to improve conditions in the 55. Earlier this year, I changed from
dolomite to aragonite (the former having been sold to me by the
flaky LFS, the latter recommended by a somewhat better LFS). The
'new' LFS worked with me to improve parameters...phosphates were
high (3.0); <Do you have a refugium?> ALK and Calcium were way
down...PH was 7.9. <A pH of 7.9 is a bit low, but not dangerously
low. It is more important to be stable.> They sold me some
Seachem products to improve things, as well as a product called
'Phos-Buster', which I dosed one time only. I replace the junky
Skilter with an AquaC Remora (based on WWM recommendations). <I
use and recommend Aqua C products.> I switched to a 2x T5 fixture
based on the 'new' LFS's recommendation. I've been using Seachem
Phosguard and have managed to keep it between 0 and 0.1 All of this
was around May of 2007. In December I decided to upgrade the
lighting (260W PC) based on what I read on WWM and also because I
liked the look of PC lighting. <How many of these bulbs are
actinic. Actinic bulbs do not benefit reef tanks very much. I think
your still lacking on lighting here. PC is not the best option for a
M. doreensis. I would only keep an E. quadricolor under this
lighting.> Bought a fixture on eBay...'Odyssea', is the brand.
<How old are the bulbs?> Nice unit...very happy. (However, had to
remove covers to accommodate lighting...now lose about 1.5 liters
per day...I don't let it get much lower than that.). <An auto top
off device is best.> Next came the water; I'd been using a 'Tap
Water Filter' unit since July but found the cartridges got used up
FAST and the water sometimes developed a funky odor after 50 gallons
or so. So I took the plunge 2 weeks ago and ordered a SpectraPure
unit; 4-canister RO/DI and a TDS meter. <Great!> I'm hoping
this helps with the phosphates issue, especially since I'm topping
off the tank so often now (I aerate the top-off water at least 12
hours before using). <RO/DI water does not need to be aerated.>
I've also started storing salted water in a plastic trash can.
<Be careful using a plastic trash can. This can leach chemicals into
your water. I’ve heard several complaints of phosphates being
leached into the water from these cans. I personally do not
recommend them.> I now dose with Seachem Reef Builder (in powder
form) and Seachem Reef Calcium now (but WAS using Reef
Complete). My CA is around 360 and the ALK is approx 2.7 (a bit
hard to read w/my Red Sea test kit). <If you are having trouble
maintaining Calcium and Alkalinity, you may want to check your
Magnesium, you may find it a bit low.> My intention is to bring
these up higher gradually but don't want to be aggressive
because of the ailing anemone. PH is 8.3 and stable from what I
can tell. <Good! Check it before the lights come on. Ph is
highest at the end of the light cycle. A refugium with lights on
when main display lights are off will help. You can also grow Macro
algae here to help with your phosphate issues.> Temp is 78 and
pretty stable, going to 79 sometimes. <I would raise it one
degree.> Salinity 1.024 <Salinity is a bit low, gradually
increase to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your top off. Test
salinity using a refractometer. Nitrates 0. Ammonia 0. <Good!>
I have 4 carbon containers one gets changed weekly on a rotating
basis. <Carbon is useless after a week or two.> 2 with the
floss in an Emperor 400 + 1 in a media container, and a big
brick 'o carbon in a HOT magnum. Attached are some pics: one
'before' of the anemone, a year ago; one taken today (sob...); one
of what I think is majano and one of my clown to show you the type.
I'm almost embarrassed to send you the pic I took of the anemone
today...what a shame. <This anemone is in very poor health, but
not dead yet!> I don't have any silversides...can I try a sliver
of cooked shrimp w/Selcon on it? <Nope! Never feed cooked food.
Always feed raw food, guts included. Raw shrimp from your local deli
may work. However, Silversides is better in my experience. Your LFS
should have this.> Thanks, Mike. <You’re welcome! Brenda> |
 .jpg) |
Several reef questions-LTA, Sea Hare, etc... pre-eminent crash,
reading, reading and understanding 01/22/2008 Hello WWM
Crew, This is the first time I've asked a question and I must
apologize up front, but this may be a long email. <No worries.
Take your time> I'm sending a link with photos of my tank for you
information. Before I ask my questions, I will tell you about the
tank. It is a 34 gallon Red Sea Max system. We purchased it from our
LFS on their recommendation. <What do you think of this (new)
product? Craftsmanship? Value?> We now know it is more difficult
to keep a smaller tank and we plan on moving in 6 months, at which
time we will be getting a much larger tank. In the meantime, we need
some advice on how to best care for our little creatures. In the
tank we currently have two Ocellaris Clowns (one male and one
female), yellow-tail Damselfish, Pajama Cardinal, 4-5 Nassarius
snails, 3 small turbo snails, 1 fire/cleaner shrimp, Sandsifting
starfish, Blue Tuxedo Sea Urchin, Sea Hare (that I've been unable to
accurately identify), <Mmmm> Long Tentacle Anemone,
<Yikes...> 1 mid-size red legged hermit crab, 3 smaller
red-legged hermits, 1 very small emerald crab, a green star polyp
coral, 2 very small sea mushroom coral (one of which is attached to
what I was told to be "leather finger"), 2 other small soft corals
that I can't seem to remember the name of at the moment but I
believe to be pineapple/brain coral, and another Favites coral that
is not in any photos because we just purchased it. According to
yesterday's tests, water quality as follows: Temp: 78 Specific
Gravity: 1.023-1.024 Calcium: 460 PH: 8.2 Phosphate: .1 Ammonia:
0-.15 <I do hope this is an anomalous reading... test kit
artifact. This needs to be zero> Nitrate: 0 Nitrite: .05.
<Ditto> We are aware that we need excellent water quality but we
were told by our LFS that our levels were fine for us and we've
NEVER had Ammonia at 0. Oh, the tank is fairly new, started in late
October 2007. OK, so on to my questions. When we first put the
LTA in our tank 2 weeks ago, we placed in where it is located in the
photos and it remained there for a little over a week. Just the
other day it began to move about. <An "unhappy" behavior> I
looked up how to help it settle and tried moving it to a location
and feeding it 1/2 of a Silverside. <...> It stayed there for
2 days and then began to roam again. I did the same thing again and
it stayed for only 1/2 day and not it's roaming around again. I know
that an unattached anemone is an unhappy anemone but I can't
understand what more I need to do to help it find a home. <The
other cnidarians... the Polyps, Corallimorphs...> When I found it
yesterday morning it was sucked onto the sea urchin and I moved it
because I didn't think that was a particularly good thing. I thought
maybe our substrate wasn't appropriate but the LFS assures me it's
fine. How long should I expect it to roam around the tank? <Not
much longer... as it will be dead... perhaps the rest of your
livestock with it> Should I right it if it's upside down?
<Tentacle side up... and place a "strawberry basket or such over it>
Based on the photos, can you recommend an appropriate placement
that I could try? <... in looking at this animal, considering
your system... I would remove, return it to your LFS. This specimen
is very badly bleached (dying from a lack of zooxanthellae... which
give it color... and nutrition) and your system does not have
sufficient quality or quantity of light to support such an
organism... Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm and the linked files
above> I'll be getting a net today to try that technique
mentioned on your site. It's tentacles are usually out while it's
roaming around, is this a sign of good health? <No my friend>
Next question: The sea hare that I can't identify fell onto the
anemone the other day. <Very bad...> Should I be worried about
the anemone stinging it? <Yes... and I suspect this is not a
tropical animal... See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/seaslugid.htm
re this Aplysia> I moved the sea hare when I saw it. What exactly
happens to a marine animal if/when it gets stung by an anemone?
<Too much to relate to you here... but is recorded on our site,
elsewhere> Will I be able to identify if has happened? <This
animal needs to be removed as well... is also mis-placed here>
The sea hare was purchased less than a week ago and it's laid eggs
on the side of the aquarium walls twice. <Stress... reproducing
before it dies...> Should I clean this up or leave it alone (none
of the aquarium inhabitants attempted to eat it). <Should be
removed> The mushroom coral in the photo was purchased at the
same time as the LTA. <...> It was open and appeared happy
for several days. We added phytoplankton to the tank <Nothing you
list actually eats this...> the day we got it and then forgot to
refrigerate it so we didn't add any more until a week ago. It had
shriveled up but the opened back up when we added the phytoplankton
(which we were told to add 3 times a week). We also have been
instructed to add 1 squirt of Arctipods once a week. Now the
mushroom is shriveled again and has been for 2 days. Is this normal
or is this a sign of bad health? If it's a sign of bad health is
there anything I can do to help it? <... my friend... you need to
read... And STOP buying "things", livestock...> Two more quick
questions and them I'm done, I promise. We don't have an RO/DI
filter yet (we won't be able to have one until we move) so we've
been using Distilled water in the meantime. Since we've never had
super great water quality, is this a contributing factor? <Not
much> Is there anything we can to do help get the ammonia to 0
(Oh, I forgot, we add Amquel 1x/week)? <... this may be giving
you a false positive...> Besides adding PH 8.2 to the distilled
water, should I be doing something else? <Reading> Last
question. I now know that our clowns don't naturally host with a LTA
but is there a possibility that this might happen? <... reading>
Is there anything I can do to help this process (besides a home for
the LTA)? I know that they can survive without each other but it
would be nice if they would pair, besides, the clowns have taken up
residency in the little cave in our tank that was home to the
shrimp. Now we hardly see the shrimp because it appears to have been
pushed out of it's home by the clowns. It would be nice to be able
to give it back it's home. Thank you for you wonderful site.
I've learned a lot (much of which has come after making this
purchase and had I known better would have made different choices).
I've looked on your site for answers to my questions and I often see
that you refer people to "read wetwebmedia.com about your question".
If you are going to refer me to an article, can you please give me a
link or please be very specific about the location of the article
because I sometimes have difficulty navigating your site. Thank you,
again. http://www.sendpix.com/albums/08012114/2t2jg47po0/ Link to
photos of our tank Lynda Hounshell <Read and heed the above...
and then, keep reading... Do NOT buy anything more w/o researching
for yourself ahead of time. What you have now will very likely
"crash" soon... You need to ACT with knowledge... ASAP. Bob Fenner> | 

|
New LTA question 5/25/07
Hello and thank you for all of the great info on your site!
<Welcome!> I have a 7-month old 150 gallon saltwater tank with a 225
pounds of live rock, refugium, very strong Current Halide lighting,
Current drop-in chiller, protein skimmer, 35 watt UV sterilizer and
additional 4 power heads being directed by a Wave master. My
inhabitants are a Copper banded Butterfly, Sail fin Tang, Bellus Angel,
4 Chromis, 3 Blennies, 1 female square spot Anthias and 1 male Liar
<Heeee! Lyre> tail Anthias. (The female Lair tail and Male
Square spot Anthias recently passed. I believe that it was due to the
increased use of halide lighting once I added corals. Both of them went
into hiding and after a month or so, died).
<Mmmm> After about 5 months I added mushroom, elegance and bubble
corals. They have been thriving and growing well over the last two
months. My water levels have been steady and I keep a good eye on
the phosphate, calcium and alkalinity levels now that I have corals. I
keep the water temp at 76 with a variance of 2 degrees with a salinity
of 1.0235. I do a 30 gallon water change every two weeks with water I
make from my R/O unit. Since adding the corals, I noticed that keeping
the alkalinity up is the main change in the water. I add a dose Pro
Buffer dKH almost every day. Phosphates are a little bit of a challenge
as the tanks is still kind of new. When they get above .03 I add a dose
of Phos-Pro liquid which the tang does not appreciate. I also have a
bag of Phos-ban in the refugium constantly. The tank gets 13 hours of
blue light (7am to 8pm) and 7 hours of halide light (12pm to 7pm)
everyday. Last weekend I purchased a LTA <Could be trouble mixed
with the corals you list...> along with a male and female clown
fish. They were already an acclimated set together in the tank at the
fish store. I asked the salesperson the proper caring instructions.
He replied that the LTA would attached itself to the sand and the fish
would feed it. Here's what I've done so far: I dug a little hole in
the sand, placed the LTA in it then watched him be blown around by my
power heads. It ended up on the bottom, on its side next to my overflow
with it's tentacles being sucked into the overflow slits. Not damaged
as far as I could tell. I moved it back into place, put a live rock,
shaped like a half-circle, behind it for stability and turned off the
power heads. After one day, it appeared to be nestling into place. This
morning, it was closed up like a ball with the two clown fish trying to
get inside of it. Once the blue light came on and I fed the fish/corals
it appeared to open a little, but then closed up again. It's resting at
an angle that's tilted probably 20 degrees. If I turn on the power
heads, I think it will be blown around again. Given that the flow of
the tank will probably push him into the overflow again, I'm
worried. He has a red bottom and it's tentacles are light tan to
greenish. My questions... 1) Should I continue to keep the power
heads off until the LTA settles in or should I run them as normal so it
finds a spot that's comfortable? <Mmm, no... you need to re-arrange
the flow such that it doesn't blow this animal about...> (I'm
worried that if I run them he'll end up by the overflow again. Also
I worry about the fish and my corals as they're used to the current
provided by the power heads). <Yes, very important>
2) Feeding? Seems like the more I read, the more I see that I should
be feeding him and not relying on the fish to feed him. <Correct>
My current feeding for the fish is two to three times daily of
artic-pods, herbivore minced and Mysis shrimp. The corals are fed once
each day either, Phyto-plan, Zoo-Plan, Cyclops or Mystic Snow. Thank
you so much for your help!!!! Greg E. <Please... take a while
and read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Scroll down
to the tray on Anemones, LTAs... Bob Fenner> |
Re: New LTA question 5/25/07
Thanks for the response Bob! Yesterday, the Anemone changed from
a ball to a deflated, wrinkled half ball. Still has it's red
coloring <This is normal, natural> and changes shapes
slowly. The clown fish are trying to get inside of it most of the
time. <You might do well to cover this animal for now, to keep
the Clowns away... they may well be damaging this organism>
This morning it looked virtually the same but had greenish
tentacles coming out of the bottom area. <? Is this anemone
upside down?> (Well, it look like it was coming out of the
bottom but I'm not sure). I took pictures of it yesterday and
brought them with to the store I bought it. The owner just smiled
and said, "That's what Anemone's do. <... no> He's just
getting acclimated to the new environment. Just leave him
alone." I picked up some silversides and hope to someday have use
for them. I am interested in your comment about a possible
conflict with the corals I have. Currently, I have the Anemone
placed about six inches away from a bubble coral <I see this...
and this is WAY too close for an anemone to be near a Plerogyra>
and, since the Anemone was blowing around, I moved a piece of live
rock in front of him that has some green mushroom corals on it.
<And these too...> This changed the flow so he's not being
blown around anymore. It was the next day, however, that he changed
into a ball....so perhaps the rock with mushroom coral is part of
the reason? <My friend... please read, investigate before you
buy anything live... Your mis-step here may cause your system to
crash... Really> I've also re-started two of the four power
heads to keep the tank flowing. They do not place added flow on the
Anemone, so it's been pretty stable. It seems to be a good
compromise for the fish until the Anemone situation is
rectified. After only 1 day with the power heads off I was
surprised to wake up to a half dozen 1/4 inch bristle worms on my
front glass. (I've only seen a couple of 1 inchers in my refugium
in the past). My Copper banded Butterfly was eager to pick them off
for me. Anything I need to know/do about the Bristle worms? I've
placed a couple of the traps in the water, but didn't catch anything
with the bait they sent with the trap. I've sent two
pictures along. One show's it's placement in back of the bubble and
mushroom coral. The other is just of the Anemone. (Sorry...Not
the best pictures. Darn cell phone cameras!) Thanks again, and
in advance of your next response. Thanks, Gregory E.
<Read re the compatibility of the Stinging-celled life you have
here... and soon Greg. Bob Fenner> |  
|
Re: New LTA question - 05/26/07 Will do, Thanks. You know
what? I think you are right...it must be upside down as the bottom of
the Anemone was red and that's what's on top now. I think I'll take
this opportunity to move it very far away from the corals. I'll do the
reading you suggested right away. <Ah, good. RMF> Thanks,
Gregory Re: New LTA question - 05/26/07
Thanks for your help Bob, but it appears the bad advice I got
yesterday from my fish store proved to be costly. I rushed home from
work to find that, as you guessed, the Anemone was upside down. The red
underside began disintegrating as I started turning it over. More of
the same when I got it right side up and let a small amount of current
pass over it. I then called the fish store and they told me to "leave
it in my tank for a day to see what happens <What? No!> and they
couldn't tell me more unless they saw it." Umm, I brought a picture of
it in yesterday and they didn't even notice it was upside down. After
giving it a half hour to move, I finally removed it from the tank to
avoid an ammonia problem. <This and worse> It was already
dead. I'm upset that I didn't notice that it was upside down. Even a
little more that they didn't as this is the premier fish store in my
area of Park Ridge, IL....and I was speaking with the owner.
I bought the clown fish and Anemone as I wanted that fish/anemone
activity in my tank. I would not have purchased the clown fish on their
own. Is it probable that a new anemone would attract the clown fish or
am I out of luck? <Please... read> Currently, they seem to be
hanging around my bubble and elegance corals. Thanks again, Greg
E <RMF> What happened to my LTA, Macrodactyla doreensis
and my Shrimp, Lysmata debelius, Lysmata amboinensis? – 5/20/07
I am having problems with my saltwater tank. It consisted of 2
Macrodactyla doreensis, <<Two?! No! RMF>> 2 Amphiprion percula, 1
Lysmata amboinensis, and 2 Lysmata debelius. It all started when one of
the LTA incased itself and would show no tentacles. Soon after, one of
the Lysmata debelius died. I tested the water (Ammonia: 0.50ppm,
<<Danger Will Robinson! RMF>> Nitrite: 0ppm, Nitrate: 10-15ppm, pH:
8.0-8.2) and did a water change. <What is the
temperature, salinity, alkalinity, and tank size? How long have you had
each of these animals?> I pulled the incased LTA and put him in
another tank, he was dead the next morning. The Lysmata amboinensis and
the other Lysmata debelius were also dead that morning in the other
tank. I tested the water again and got the same readings I then did
another water change. The fish seem to be doing fine and the other LTA
seems to be hanging on for right now. I just don't know where to go
from here. I checked everything, filter is running fine, I don't over
feed the tank, and the tank has been established for 2-3 years.
<What have you been feeding the anemones? Are you dosing the tank with
anything?> Is it one of those mysteries I may never solve?
<Possibly> Thank you for any input that you have. <You’re
welcome!> You guys all do a great job! <Thank you! Brenda>
LTA vs. Power head – 3/09/07 <Hi Chris, Brenda here>
First of all, like everybody else, I want to say thank you for all
you guys do. You really have helped a lot of people and marine
animals!!! <You’re welcome> Well, to start off, today I came
home to find that my wife had purchased a LTA. She had called me
earlier and said that when she had put it in the tank, it went to
the back in back of the rocks, so she said that when I got home, I
could get her out and put her in front. <It is best to leave
them alone. It was still acclimating and looking for a comfortable
place in its new environment.> I came home from school, only to
find the tank semi cloudy and that the anemone was partly sucked up
in one of the power heads, so I immediately turned the power head
off, and pulled it out and took off the part she was hooked onto and
put her in a bucket with tank water. I tried to pry her out as
gently as I could from the screen and then placed her after rinsing
her off a little bit with that same water in my smaller tank.
<Power heads are dangerous to anemones, they need to be
covered. Here are some ideas: http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm >
She is pretty beat up on one half, I would really like to save her
because she is really pretty, but what can I do other then try and
letting her heal herself? Let me know what I can do please!
<The best thing that you can do now is keep your water parameters
perfect. Keep a close eye on it. If it starts to look like it is
melting or decaying, it is time to remove it and do a water change
before it pollutes the rest of your tank. If things are going good
after a few days, try feeding a ¼” sized portion of silversides that
has been soaked in Selcon.> I also did a partial water change to
the big tank to get some of the cloudiness out, I have my skimmer on
and so it is starting to clear up already. <Good! Be prepared
to do more water changes.> I’m glad that all of her didn’t get
chopped up, then I would really be in trouble. Please let me know
how to proceed. I have attached some pics of the anemone, my tank
and of some rocks. <Yes, I see the pictures. The anemone is
definitely not looking good, but I wouldn’t give up hope.> I was
hoping that you could identify what is growing on the rocks. There
is an orange jagged thing growing on one, and little round
red/maroon things growing on the other one, I was thinking that they
might be some type of coral but I’m not sure, thanks for your
help! <The red growing on the rock is a type of red
algae. Please search for red algae on WetWebMedia. I’m not sure
what the orange is, hard to tell by picture. Any thoughts on this
Bob? > Chris. <You’re welcome! Good luck with your
anemone! Brenda> |  |  |
LTA attachment/health, sys. really 2/22/07 Hi, I purchased
a LTA this past weekend. It is purple in color and was fully open and
seemed healthy in the LFS. <Was it buried in the sand there?> I
inspected the foot and found no tears/abrasions. <Good> I
brought it home and acclimated it to my tank over about 2 hours. My
system consists of a 20g tall tank <Too small> with 10g
sump/fuge, skimmer, 130w pc lighting...ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5,
ph 8.1, alk 3.75, calcium 400, phosphate 0.05. I placed it in my tank
between two rocks in what I thought was a suitable location. It opened
up within an hour and looked happy in its spot. There was no bleaching,
but the mouth was open possibly 1/4". Overnight it wandered to a corner
of the tank with a powerhead where it has remained ever since. It
occasionally deflates for about 10 min.s, but winds up looking good as
new a short time later. <Not atypical behavior> Right now it
is just lying on its side and doesn't seem to be attaching/burying
itself to anything. I left it alone till this afternoon when I went to
great trouble to bury the foot. <Good> The LTA is very top heavy
and the slightest current from either my sump return or powerhead
(MaxiJet 900) would blow it away. <Mmm, needs much deeper sand...
several inches perhaps> Finally, I was able to build a little mound
for it, and it was sitting up at about a 45 degree angle. I went and
ate dinner and when I came back it had extended itself and plopped right
back down horizontal on the sand. I tried to feed it a pea sized piece
of shrimp yesterday, and its tentacles held on to the food. I watched
it for about 10-15 min.s and it slowly brought the food closer to its
mouth. I had to leave, but when I returned the food was gone, although
I don't know if it ate it. I was hoping you could take a look at the
attached pictures and give me any indications on the health of the
anemone. <Does have the appearance of a very nice, healthy specimen>
I know they are delicate and I get worried when it starts acting
funny. Also, any insight on this thing attaching? I don't want to
stress it out too much by trying to bury it (its tricky) repeatedly.
<... Really needs a much larger world... with deeper substrate. Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm The linked files
above. Bob Fenner> | 
|
Unhappy Anemone 9/16/06 Hi Crew!! I think I
have a very sad anemone (red long tipped). It has moved all over the
place, it went from the light to hiding under some rocks. I doesn't open
very much any more. I purchased it early July. I have T-5 lighting,
Berlin protein skimmer, 2 power heads to circulate the water. For fish I
have clownfish, yellow tang, emerald crabs, hermit crabs, 2- cleaner
shrimp, royal Gramma, coral Gramma? ( I think that is what it is), green
star polyp, candy cane coral, red mushrooms. I tested first Sept PH 8.2,
Nitrate 5, nitrite 0.1 ammonia 0 , calcium 420-440, alkalinity 3. I do a
5 gallon water change weekly and add 1 cap iodine and strontium &
molybdenum. Am I doing something wrong that is causing the LTA to be in
distress. I was also having trouble with my mushrooms. They were flat to
the rock, also look like they had white dots on them. I think I had them
to close to the light I moved them to the bottom of the tank. They now
seem to lift up like they have life to them now. But if you have any
suggestions for them as well I will certainly appreciate it. Thanks hope
to hear from you soon. Thanks for all your suggestions Janice
<<Janice: My LTA is under 400W SE MH lighting. Normally, people don't
add such additives to the water. Assuming your anemone has enough
light, you should be feeding it. Are you? I feed mine 1/2 of a
silverside every few days. Best of luck, Roy>>
LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006 Hi, <Hello Charity>
I was reading through your anemone faq's and came across the advice to
never buy a white anemone. <Think it meant a bleached anemone.>
I was at the local fish store and had been researching and wanting a LTA
for a while. Somehow I missed that advice before. I have a: 55
gallon long aquarium Wet/dry Excalibur skimmer 1 pygmy
bicolor angel (6 months in tank) 1 maroon clownfish (3 yrs in tank)
1 yellow tang ( 1 year in tank) 1 hippo tang (1 inch, 1 year in
tank) 4 turbo snails 1 rock of mushrooms 1 green star polyp
1 Montipora orange 2 strips of coral life 65 *2 50/50 lights (260 w)
1 strip of 40 watt no fluorescent lights Ammonia:0 Nitrite: 0
Nitrate 10 ppm but did have a spike the night he was added. We did a 30
gallon water change that night. Calcium: 380 (slowly raising it up)
Ph: ranges from 8.0 to 8.2 I have included pictures showing the
decline over the last few days. Is there any chance of survival? I feed
him silversides. The first night he took it immediately to his
mouth. It has gotten slower over the last couple of days but he does
still eat. <For starters, never attempt feeding an anemone until he
anchors down and blooms. None of the pics indicate an anchoring took
place.> Any advice you could provide would be wonderful! <It is
not recommended having fish other than clowns in the company of
anemones. Also looks like water flow may be a little low. Is your
total flow at least 600gph? I will post a link or tow here for you to
read along with related links above. Will provide a link with info on
their care, requirements and keeping. Do read along with related
articles shown above title.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm> Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Charity <<James... where's
the original msg., pix? RMF>>
Re: LTA/Health/Systems -
06/07/2006 Hi James, <Hello Charity.> Thanks so much for
the quick reply. <You're welcome.> I do have 605 gph flow rated
return on my tank. <Do take into account head pressure loss. Will
not have an actual 605gph, especially if the pump is of the powerhead
type.> He was anchored to the glass under the sand at one point but
he has fallen over and remained since my maroon has been bothering him.
Should I move the sand back again. <Not necessary, the LTA should
anchor itself in the evening when there are no menacing fish
around. You could put a clear acrylic/plastic perforated container
over him until he anchors. Will have to do the perforations yourself,
unlikely you will find anything like this.> I will do the
readings you suggested. <I hope you do. We just do not have the
time to elaborate on all the details of keeping anemones, that is what
the Wet Web Site is for. Can learn much by reading FAQ's on the
subject also. Do learn/use.> Thanks again! <You're
welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Charity
Re: LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006 The link above has a
title but no information. <Mmm, hasn't been penned yet, correct,
Bob? Other articles on anemones will steer you right since they share
similar requirements/needs. James (Salty Dog)> <<Correct James...
there are many such articles/topics to be written... Not just by me! You
may likely have more accurate, complete information re actinarians use
in captivity than moi... RMF>> LTA behavior, health, systems
2/2/06 Hi guys! wonderful site, great advice! Like many
before me and very unfortunately many after me in July 2005 I made an
impulse purchase, I purchased a long tentacle anemone. Everything
was fine till about a month ago. Here are parts "article" I wrote for my
website (to read it all www.homereefkeeping.com) it will explain my
predicament: <Thank you for this> We bought an anemone in July
of 2005. We got our Long Tentacle Anemone (LTA with a bright red stock)
along with 2 True Percula Clownfish. The first mistake we made was not
researching anemones and finding out how to care for them prior to
making our purchase. Our second mistake was buying it on impulse.
<Very common> It lived in it’s cave for a while it would expand and
half went from a pale cream color to a “dusky pink”, the other half
being sheltered from the bright metal halides stayed the pale cream
color. In mid October it moved from the cave to an opening in the rock
on the left hand side of the tank. It would expand to the size of a
typical dinner plate. We would feed it medium/large sized (about 1/3 of
a shrimp) pieces of raw, thawed shrimp every 5 days or so.. It would
take the food readily, fold back on itself, and would ingest the food
given. The entire anemone turned a healthy “dusky pink” <Yes...
thank goodness energy/food provided by you through feeding... inadequate
light response> Today’s date is January 28, 2006 and since December
(unfortunately I did not keep records, or dates) the anemone had been
acting “strange” for the last month. It would no longer expand fully, it
had become difficult to feed, would retract on itself. It hasn’t
completely lost it’s color. <Yes, bleaching...> Approximately 5
days ago the anemone “fell” through the rocks, for about a day it hid
under the rockwork; 3 days ago it moved to the back of the tank where it
has been laying on its side. I thought it had died and tried to move it
only to find out that it has attached itself solidly onto one of the
rocks. For the last 2 days I’ve been feeding the anemone shrimp (that I
put through the blender) and Mysis with a turkey baster. Here’s
where opinion vary; where I had read to feed the anemone large meaty
chunks, on another site it said to feed it small shredded pieces of
“meat”. After a bit of consideration and seeing what we’d been
through with our anemone I am most certainly starting to think that the
shredded option makes a lot of sense. If you feed pieces of food that
are too large the anemone cannot digest them and slowly expels the food.
Thus making the anemone slowly starve, and all the while you think
you’ve been feeding it. <Mmm, as long as the food is taken,
ingested...> Well we are now Jan 31st, the anemone has gone back
under rocks where I can't get to it's mouth, it inflated it's stock huge
today and seemed the have some kind of line down the middle, now (4hrs
later) it's slowly deflated itself. yesterday I saw its oral cavity and
it was huge, much bigger than I'd ever seen it, today I can't see it so
I don't know. Because it's under rocks I can't tell for the life of me
if it's splitting, dying or just taking me for a ride on a nasty roller
coaster (worried it's dying, then it looks "ok" then it disappears) Has
anyone ever seen an anemone split? <Oh yes> How does it act
before splitting? <Sometimes "out of the ordinary"... often not>
what else could be wrong with it? <... a lack of light, circulation,
metabolite poisoning, a dearth of biomineral, alkalinity...> I have
a 65 gallon tank, 80lbs of Live sand, 120lbs of LR, a galaxy coral, a
frogspawn coral, <... Oh, and allelopathy... chemical competition.
These animals are problematic in the same water> 2 true Percs, a
lawnmower blenny, 2 cleaner shrimp, scarlet crabs, blue legged crabs and
an assortment of snails. The shrimp molt almost every 2 weeks. My
water parameters are as follows : ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0 nitrate:0
phosphates:0-0.5 (gha prob...) ph: 8.0 to 8.3 depending on the time of
day, temp: 79F salinity: 1.025 other than a drop in phosphates the water
has been stable since it cycled in May 2005 I have a protein
skimmer, 3 powerheads, a PhosBan/ROWAphos fluidizer (long cylindrical
thing for active carbon and phosphate remover) up until 3 days ago
had a Eheim canister filter (stopped it to see if it was the cause of
high phosphates and my phosphates have dropped from 0.5 to 0) Thank
you for all your help Catherine <Needs to be in a different
system (w/o the Oculinid, Euphylliid) and more light... at least. Bob
Fenner> Anemone acting strangely... LTA in a ten gallon...
1/31/06 Hi there, Fist of all, I should say that I've
read over a lot of the already answered postings, and I can't find
something that sounds just like the issue I'm having with my
LTA. I'm sorry if you already have answered this, though, and maybe I'm
just using the wrong search keywords. <Possibly... but
may not be there. WWM will never be "done"> Anyways, about my
anemone. I purchased a gorgeous LTA from the LFS a little less than a
week ago. The man at the store told me to make sure I have strong
circulation around the anemone, feed it silversides, and make sure to
change my 96-watt bulbs if they are over a year old. I did change
my bulbs (they were about two years old) and made sure all circulation
was strong (I even added a powerhead and bubble wall). I slowly
acclimated the anemone through about a one and a half hour acclimation
of adding small amounts of my water to the bag water. <Were the
new/old water qualities about the same?> The anemone moved around
the tank for several days <A bad sign> until it finally settled
in two days ago between some live rock. It inflated quite nicely and my
clownfish seemed to show signs of accepting it (he was nudging it
and laying on it). I then fed it a light feeding of brine shrimp just
to see if it would eat--it accepted it willingly. Then, yesterday
morning, the anemone had moved again and looked absolutely horrible. It
was laying on it's side, the tentacles were shriveled and limp looking,
and there were large globs of slime and large, black, curled looking
balls coming out of the anemone's mouth. <Very bad sign> I
called the fish store and they said it was most liking ridding itself of
waste. Today it has moved again and still looks the same (more
black balls have appeared and it's difficult to discern the
tentacles). My question is, is it ridding itself of waste or is it
dying? <A bit of both> I have a ten gallon aquarium (yes, I
know 10-gallons are dangerous, <... not able to sustain this animal>
but I have very stable conditions with 8.2 pH, 0 ammonia, nitrite, and
0-10 nitrates), 96-watt 50/50 PC lamp, strong filtration with a Skilter,
powerhead, and bubble wall, and about 20-30 lbs of live rock. The
temperature stays steady at about 82º. The tank is about 2.5 years old
and has had a clownfish and coral banded shrimp living in it happily
the entire time. Should I get the anemone out, or will it revive
itself? <Too likely it is dying, will take the rest of
your livestock with it... This animal may well have not been
well-adjusted from wild-collection, had troubles no matter what was done
with it, but placing it in such a small volume... very small chance of
success. Bob Fenner> Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, ~Jonathon
Re: Anemone acting strangely
2/1/06 Thanks for your help. I finally decided to take the poor
thing out and toss it... It was beginning to cloud my water slightly
and I figured it had to be dying. I had great luck with a BTA about
a year ago (it lived 8 months!), but I guess I should just give up on
anemones since my tank is so small. Thanks again,
Jonathon <Ah, yes. Bob Fenner>
LTA Injured >Dear
Crew: >>Dear Angie, using Jeffrey's email.. Marina here. >I have a
44 pent saltwater tank w/an undergravel filter/Power Sweep 228
powerhead, Eheim Classic 2217, JBJ power compact lighting (1 36w
actinic, 1 36w 10K), 1 15w Marine-Glo, and a crushed shell base. The
depth is 22". >>Ok. Since this question, I'm assuming, is about a
long tentacle anemone, I'm wondering why you've gone with an undergravel
filter (assuming you're new to saltwater). >Currently, I have about
15 lbs of live rock, 1 Gorgonia, 1 flowerpot coral w/barnacles (these
look like skeletal hands, it's really cool), 1 Montipora w/button
polyps, a large hunk of Porites, some mushrooms, Ricordea, and what I
think to be "waving hands" coral (growing like crazy). >>That would
probably be Xenia. >I also have a panther grouper, a Fiji damsel, a
cleaner shrimp, a red fire shrimp and a curlicue anemone that I've had
for 2 years. >>You've had *that* mix of fish for two years??? I
would expect the panther (which is in a pitifully small tank for its
ultimate adult size) to begin slurping up what fits in its mouth as soon
as it thinks they'll fit. >All are doing great! Ph is 8.4, salinity
is 1.025, temp is 76, no ammonia, 'trites or 'trates. (Pods and serpent
stars are throughout substrate and live rock.) Recently, I added an LTA
and noticed that its pedicle was damaged (don't know if it was during
collection or bagging at the fish store). >>Uh oh.. rough handling,
bad juju. >It looks like a white ragged rip about 1/4" long across
the foot, which is 3" in diameter. It wants to anchor but won't/can't
(it seems to hover over the substrate, not quite off, but not quite
in) The coloring is great and otherwise seems healthy. Is this anemone
doomed or is there a way I can facilitate its healing? (I plan on
upgrading the lighting to 2 55w PC bulbs instead of the 2 36w PCs within
the next month.) >>Glad to hear you're going to upgrade that
lighting. I strongly suggest you set up a small (ten gallons should do)
hospital tank, and line it with well-washed Astroturf (yes,
Astroturf!). This helps removal once the anemone has healed. I would
line all surfaces (remember, you don't have to fill the tank all the way
up with water) with the turf. From here you have two choices; you can
either keep water quality pristine as you do in your main and observe,
or you can begin treating with Spectrogram. In either case, handle the
animal with care. >Your site is incredible, one of the most
informative I have ever seen on the web. Thank you in advance! Angie
S. >>Thank you, and you're welcome. I do hope this helps. Marina
LTA Injured - Pt. II >So sorry about my husband's previous
question about undergravs. I told him to look through the FAQs first!
>>You've made my biggest smile for the day so far. >Thanks again for
the response, but we are taking the LTA back to our LFS today and
getting credit or a better specimen. >>Sounds like a good idea to
me. Though, upon reading our FAQs, you'll notice that we strongly
discourage keeping motile cnidarians (anemones) with sessile inverts, as
they can move about and inadvertently sting them to death. Just so
you're aware of the possibility. >Have relocated the grouper to our
trigger tank (don't gasp, they are about 3" compared to his 5" and
either he is really docile -he thinks he's a dog!- or we feed him really
well and regularly) and all are getting along. >>No gasping here,
I've had panthers and found them to be sufficiently "froggy" for lots of
triggers. >Thanks again for such informed people running a superb
site!!! Angie S. (Using Jeff's email again!!) >>You're quite
welcome, and thank you! Marina
Anemone health/husbandry 2/11/04 First thanks for the website
and for all I have learned reading. <very welcome my friend...
continue to learn and share> I have a question about my LT
anemone. (Hope the attached picture comes through) I have had this
anemone in my 180 for about two months. The aquarium has been up
for about seven months. My lighting is VHO about 420 watts.
<hmmm... low light indeed. Needs to be around 500-600 watts (min)
for most corals or anemones> This leads me to my question. Can
this LTA thrive under this lighting with supplemental feeding.
<hard to say... the feedings would have to be very heavy and
nutritious (varied, gut-loaded and or laced... HUFA rich
supplements, etc) if it even worked at all. I would suggest the
addition of at least one 150 watt double ended 10k K HQI halide or
comparable> I have two retro 175w halides I have been thinking
about adding to my canopy, but I have heat concerns. <halides
really do not produce any more heat than properly installed
fluorescents which need to be no more than 3" off the surface of the
water to be effective (note this with your present VHOs). Halides at
6-9" with adequate ventilation are no trouble at all. The common
problem is flawed canopy designs which are poorly vented> The LTA
has moved a couple of times but seems to have settled in a
spot. The tank gets some sunlight, but more toward the other end
than where the LTA has settled. Does it appear healthy? <the
pigmentation seems good> It expands and contracts often during
the day - sometimes almost completely under the liverock. Thanks
for your advice. <please also note that you will have far bigger
problem in t along run if this anemone is (unnaturally) mixed in
with sessile corals. See biotope info on anemones. Best regards,
Anthony> | 
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LTA quarantine I have searched your info and can't seem to find
quarantine procedure for anemones, if their is one. <Here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm> I have bought a LTA and
the LFS is holding it until I find out a correct quarantine procedure--I
seem to know more about fish than the LFS if you catch my drift--which
is scary. I consistently quarantine my new fish and would like some
help on this anemone. Please advise. Thanks <Bob Fenner>
Long tentacle anemone who isn't happy Hello and thanks for the
great info on your web site. I have an LTA who has been in my 38
gallon reef tank for 2 months. Initially, when I introduced it, it took
over a week to settle in and bury its foot. Since then it has been
healthy, eating small pieces of frozen (thawed) shrimp, and interacting
well with my tomato clown fish. About a week ago its tentacles retracted
and it has almost buried itself in the substrate in a small cave area
under a piece of live rock. It is mostly in the shade and does not open
up much during the day, but closes entirely during the night. Its
tentacles have been almost gone for about 1 week now and I am very
concerned for its health. <You should be> I know that my tank is
small for an anemone, but my water quality is good: Nitrates and
nitrites are 0, phosphates are 0.25 to 0, calcium is 380, pH is 8.3-8.4,
and I have 110 W PC lighting and 60 W NO fluorescent lighting. Is
there anything I can do to help my anemone? Thanks so much.
Kevin England <Take the long read through our coverage on this and
other large anemone's use in aquariums... Much could be amiss here...
for instance, a mis-mix with other cnidarians... Bob Fenner>
Anemone question! 7/24/05 Greetings -- seems like there's
a ton of people asking questions about anemones. I'm now one of them!
<People usually house them inappropriately (i.e.. keeping them in reef
tanks) so they tend to have a lot of problems with them> I picked up
a long tentacle from the local fish store about two weeks ago. He's
huge, and has looked great in the tank. I fed him a small bit of krill
-- under 1/4", from what I've read on the site. I feed him generally
every four days. <Sounds good> Anyway, when I went to work
this morning I noticed he looked a little smaller, but not a big
deal. When I got home, he looked completely dead; no water in tentacles
at all, wasn't gripping the rock anymore (had fallen over on its side),
etc. Huge red base was just sitting out in the open. The mouth wasn't
open though. I checked water parameters and things looked fine
(temperature holds steady at 80-82 degrees in the tank all day. The LFS
was closed at this point so I figured I'd have to wait until
tomorrow. I went out to the store and came back and noticed its mouth
was now open basically all the way, and that it looks like it spit
something out... a brownish substance. I've propped him up between a
bunch of rocks, and dug a hole in the sand for him so that he'll stand
up... but I don't know what else to do. It keeps trying to stand up;
some of the tentacles will inflate, and it'll rise up several inches
from the base, then fall back down again. If I prop it back up between
rocks, it repeats the cycle and just gets taller and taller until it
flops over again. <Sounds like it's on the verge of death, sorry to
say> I have no other anemones, and the tank has been running for
about a year and a half. None of the fish are picking at it that I've
seen. I have a leather coral on the other side of the tank that appears
to still be doing well. The tank is a 36g bowfront. I don't have a
protein skimmer. Lighting is 130W PC (one true actinic). <You have
nowhere near enough lighting. Next time, ask questions first, purchase
second> Any clues? I know it's hard to explain without pictures and
without being here to see it, but I just find it weird that it would
have died that quickly. <I don't. Improper collection, improper
acclimation, stress, low energy reserves, combined with poor lighting>
I just checked my water parameters again; the water doesn't smell but
my alkalinity and nitrates are way above normal (pH 7.8, alkalinity 260,
nitrites < 0.5 ppm, nitrates 100 ppm). <Well that explains the death
right there. Horrible water quality - your pH should be ~8.2+ at night,
nitrites should be 0, nitrates should be less than 5ppm measured as
nitrate ion> I'm going to do a water change tomorrow and see if
that cures those problems (can't do it tonight, no supplies, it's
midnight). <Please do, and please read further about the husbandry
of marine aquariums. Look into your filtration/water circulation>
Thanks <No problem. With proper conditions, anemones can outlive
their owners, but those conditions do need to be met. A few weeks of
diligent reading should ready you, and give you time to get your tank in
order> - Will <M. Maddox>
More Anemone Woes…
9/23/05 <Adam J here.> Bryan here and I must first say that
this is the best informative website I have found on marine life, keep
it up you guys are the best! <Yeah I like this place too.> My
question is about 2 LTA's I have in my 55gal, these are the only two
inverts in the tank and not sure exactly how there health is. First
tank conditions Ammonia-0 Nitrite-0 Nitrate-12 <Try
getting this as close to zero as possible, increasing the frequency of
water changes is the easiest way.> Ph-8.5 Salinity-1.022
Temp-77 Substrate-crushed coral Seaclone 100 skimmer 330
BioWheel Maxijet 900 powerhead <You may want to add a few more
of these.> Lighting- 2ea 15w Actinic 03 blue, 2ea 15w Actinic full
spectrum lights (I hope tomorrow I will be adding 1 ea 110w Actinic
03 blue light and 1 ea Aquasun 110w white light (both are VHO bulbs)
<More lighting is definitely needed, as the current scheme is highly
insufficient for the anemones, if they continue to be subjected to this
they will meet a quick demise, so yes please upgrade.> 40lbs live
rock (just coming to life, started them as base rock, but have awesome
coralline growing now) 15 hermits 1-Clarkii, 1-yellowtail
damsel, 1-purple Anthias, and 1-yellow tang (very small and will move as
he get older) <Glad to hear it.> Anyhow, the blue LTA I placed
in the middle of the tank on a rock, overnight it move down the rock to
a spot in between three rocks where there is water flow, but not very
strong and not in the brightness area of the tank (can't see if it foot
is buried or not). This does puzzled me because right now lighting
levels is not where it needs to be. <Not really puzzling at all, the
anemone is doing what comes naturally, moving to the substrate in which
it can hide its “foot.”> The Clarkii has taken to it very well, in
fact, unless he is coming out of the LTA at night he has not come out
for 2 days, not even to eat. <You can use a turkey-baster to direct
food to him.> The colors look fine, but is there a chance it's
dying? <Without food and light….yes it will eventually die.> I
am not sure it is eating since the Clarkii will not leave. I started
feeding it ChromaPlex and also use iodine supplements. <I would use
“heavier” meats of a marine origin, (i.e. squid and krill).> On to
the green/purple LTA, from the time I put this one in, it went from
being 4" to pretty much closing up. I can't tell if it is moving or if
it is just the current pushing it around. I gave it a little help by
placing next to two rocks, but still nothing, just laying on the bottom
on it's side. <Not a good sign.> Until my slow
shipment of lighting arrives which was suppose to be here before the
LTA's, I have place a Halogen light next to the tank shining in LTA
direction, is this a bad idea? <Better than
nothing.> I also notice that it's mouth stays open for extended
periods of time, and occasionally the base inflates for awhile than
deflates. What is going on with this LTA? <Likely in a slow demise
at the moment.> Should I move the LTA to a hospital tank where I can
provide 3-4w per gal? Until my other fixtures arrive? <Moving the
animal may further stress it, leave it be for now.> Also the foot on
both LTA's look fine when placed in the tank and still do (bright
orange/red). Should I be worried? <Well to be honest these anemones
rarely acclimate and thrive in captivity, for the average hobbyist I
rarely see them live longer than 2-3 months, they do best in shallow
tanks with a DSB in which to bury their foot. They also prefer
“intense” lighting. To give them the best chance, keep water quality
pristine and target feed 1-2 times weekly. Furthermore having two in a
55 gallon is not a good idea, I have seen up to 30” in diameter. Please
read in the LTA FAQ’s for more detail
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltafaqs.htm .> Thanks Bryan <Adam
J.>
Long Tentacle Tangled Anemone 10/11/05 Greetings
and thank you for such a great site! <Hello, and thank you for the
kind words.> I purchased 1 LT anemone a few days ago and have been
very concerned with its health. Several of the little critter's
tentacles appear to be tangled within one another. Imagine long clown
balloons used for making balloon animals. The poor little tentacles seem
to be tied up in this very fashion! I have observed 2 separate spots
involving about 4 tentacles each. It almost seems like there is some
fiber constricting these little clusters! <It may appear to be
tangled but I can assure you that this is not a problem. They will never
be sticking up from the base at a 90 degree angle swaying in perfect
unison as a popular cartoon would suggest.> Additionally, it seems to
have a difficult time staying "stuck" in its spot. <Anemones often
have trouble adjusting to captive environments. It may still be finding
the spot it wants.> It will appear to be stuck into the crushed
coral only to roll over a few hours later and then recover once again.
Should I attempt to move it to a rock for better "hold" and/or
lighting? <No you can damage it in this way, furthermore the Long
Tentacle Anemone is properly placed in the sand bed and not the rock
work.> Its mouth is closed and it tentacles are inflated (save the
"tangled" ones). I have a 55 G tank w/ 55 pounds of live rock
Emperor 400 and Aqua Clear 70 Berlin Air Lift skimmer <You may
want to upgrade this eventually, if its working out and you have no
nutrient problems then disregard this.> Two 65 watt 10,000K and two
65 watt True Actinic compact fluorescent Lamps <These may be
inadequate for the anemone, monitor it for signs of bleaching and be
sure to feed it once per week.> All test show levels at 0 (Ammonia,
Nitrate, Nitrite) pH hovering at 8.1-8.2 Any help you could give
me is much appreciated. <Read here
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm, and read the linked
FAQ’s as well.> Brooke <Adam J.> LTA deflated Tentacles /
Cyano Problems 11/7/05 Good Afternoon, I have a couple
of questions regarding my 55g reef. I believe I may have a problem with
my tank as I am experiencing some Cyano problems. Currently my water
parameters are as follows: Salinity 1.026 pH 8.2 Ammonia .5 -1
<Trouble> Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0 Phosphate 0 KH 10 My
anemone will open it's mouth everyday expelling a slimy substance and
it's tentacles are deflated. <A good clue... something is amiss>
It seems to almost flip inside out almost everyday. I know an anemone in
general is hard to keep, but it was fine for the first two months with
the water chemistry not changing much. My maxima clam and pipe organs
are doing just fine though. Everything else in the tank is fine except a
yellow tang that has died recently from unknown causes, my best guess is
starvation as the seaweed I've been trying to feed her is getting taken
away by my Clarkii clown. I actually only have about 25lbs of live
rock and 15lbs what was sold as live rock but seemed like base rock. So
if I count them, it'll be 40lbs which is probably too little for a reef
tank. <Is fine for this size, shape, type system> I also have
about 30lbs of Lava Rock <This may be problematical... I would at
least have the water tested for iron content> I hope will eventually
become "live." Should I buy more live rock? <Would help, yes> And
if so, where can I purchase it at your site? <Mmm, we don't sell
anything (other than the books, pix we produce...)> Here is my tank
set up. Standard 55 gallon 80lb live sand 260w power compacts
with 130w 10,000k and 130w actinic Tidepool I Mag Drive 7 AquaC
Urchin with Maxijet And its inhabitants: 2 Damsels Clarkii
Clownfish Fire Shrimp 3 peppermint shrimps 2 conch 1 brittle
star 15 blue leg hermits 10 red leg hermits 15 Astrea snails
2 emerald crabs bubble coral Maxima Clam Pipe Organ LTA
Rusty gorgonian Various feather dusters Thanks for all your help!
<I would keep an eye on the anemone, be ready to siphon/vac it out
if/when it dies... something is awry in your system chemically... I
would remove the lava rock precautionarily (is this a word?),
<<Not that I can find (other than a specific use in translated online
Islamic texts), but we get your meaning. Marina>> and look
into adding some new LR to replace it. Bob Fenner> |
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