FAQs on Long Tentacle Anemone
Systems
Related Articles: LTAs, Anemones,
Bubble
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Related FAQs: LTAs
1, LTAs 2, LTA Identification, LTA Behavior, LTA
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Reproduction, Anemones 1,
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4, Bubble Tip
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Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia
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Reproduction, Anemone
Lighting, Anemone Feeding,
Anemone Systems,
Anemone
Identification, Anemone
Compatibility, Anemone
Selection, Anemone Behavior,
Anemone
Health, Anemone
Placement,
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Angels eat anemones in the
wild...
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New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
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LTA substrate 1/8/13
Bob,
I have learned a lot from you posts. I appreciate you. I have a 38
gallon Fowlr tank with 4 ho t5's just shy of a year old. Yesterday my
wife picked up ( without asking me) a LTA From lfs. My water parameters
should be fine as well as the lighting but I have a crushed coral
substrate that I got talked I to when entering g the hobby.
<Mmm, I'd switch... Oh, see this below>
After much research I want (and will switch to a 3-4 inch sand bed. What
are the chances of my LTA corkscrewing into the cc?
<Good>
If I places it on the glass bottom is that an idea?
<Better to situate a flat-tish rock just underneath the substrate,
position it on/over this>
It's only been 24 hrs so j haven't do e anything g but observe so far. I
have about 40 lbs live rock and I did t know if he is the type to attach
itself to it.
<You'll see... if anemones don't like the circumstances of their
placement, they can/will move>
Thanks
Chad
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Anemone Pics/Macro. doreensis/Health/Systems
No reading, useful data, following directions... 3
strikes... 2/7/11
Good afternoon,
<Hello Dorothy>
We have had this LTA for 8 days now. Saturday night he looked
beautiful, all of his tentacles were full and he was a great
pinkish/orange color with green tips. Yesterday afternoon
(Sunday), I noticed his tentacles were flat but still the
green/purple colors and his foot was still the nice orange color.
He was also very squished looking with white and green stuff
(they appear to be separate) coming from his mouth. To me, the
stuff coming from the mouth looked like the edges of red leaf
lettuce or the like (still white with some green though). He has
remained attached to the side of the tank. All water parameters
were great (tested at Aquarium World where we make our purchases
on Saturday).
<What you are lacking here is information on your system such
as tank size, lighting, type of lamps (K temp), filtration,
actual water parameters rather than "great", flow rate,
age of set up, etc.>
I called AW who said he may just be ticked off since he was moved
the night before in the tank. They said the stuff coming out of
his mouth could be waste or it could just be some of his insides
just coming out a bit but nothing to worry about. They
recommended just watching him. When I asked about sending a
picture they said it wouldn't do much good. This morning
(Monday) he is even more squished with much more coming out of
his mouth.
He seems to be contracting and then releasing; however not much
is separating from his mouth. I'm concerned that he is dying
as he does not look well. There are a few pieces of the green and
white stuff detached but most is still there. He is still
attached to the side of the tank and his tentacles are very
deflated but still green and purple. His mouth this morning was
bubbled up and then deflated as he was contracting. It appears
that he is pulling everything inside at times where you can
barely see any of the tentacles; then he opens back up a bit.
Foot is still a nice orange color.
Can they go from doing great to dead in a matter of 24-48
hours?
<Sure, us humans do.>
Any help would be appreciated. I am sending the pics that were
taken last night and then from this morning.
<Mmm, did you slowly drip acclimate the anemone to your
system? Without any useful information I can say that most losses
of this species are associated with improper environment, being
placed in too small, too new a system, without sufficient mud
and/or soft sand, a lack of light, circulation, allelopathy, and
possible poisoning. Do send information as stated above and I may
be able to further assist you. In the meantime I suggest you read
here and related articles/FAQs found in the header.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Sincerely,
Dorothy
Fwd: pics #2
Here are more pictures from this morning of the LTA.
Additionally, we have not been able to get him to feed but we
know that he may go a bit without eating after his move to our
tank. Thanks again!
Sincerely,
Dorothy
Dorothy, please resize/resend all the photos. Our system cannot
handle multiple pics with file sizes exceeding one meg.
A couple of hundred kilobytes is all that is necessary. James
(Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Pics/Macro. doreensis/Health/Systems
2/7/11
Last set of pics from today. He has been doing some really
strange things.
When I left him, he was no longer looking like this, it was more
folded in instead.
<Disregard my previous email asking you to resize the pics,
will not help
me a bit as this anemone is going to die very soon. I suggest
removing/relocating him from your system before you have more
problems.>
Thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Dorothy
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Re Anemone Pics/Macro. doreensis/Health/Systems 2/7/11-
2/9/11
<Hi Dorothy>
Thank you so much for your help James.
<You're welcome.>
The anemone was dead by the time we returned home.
<Didn't think it was going to last too long.>
I called the Aquarium shop back to discuss what they had
recommended/said to find out the person giving the advise
wasn't as familiar with the anemones :( We did a 25% water
change as recommended by Aquarium shop last night after vacuuming
the few pieces of anemone that had fallen off of him.
Would you recommend a larger water change or should the 25% be
good?
<I'd do an ammonia test to determine this....should read
0. Might want to run the system water through a chemical media
such as Chemipure or FilterEez. >
We were able to remove all the visible pieces of anemone from the
tank.
Thanks again for your help! Very much appreciated....
<You're welcome, and might I suggest researching before
buying to ensure you can provide the requirements for a given
animal.
James (Salty Dog)>
Dorothy
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Sand For Macrodactyla doreensis/Anemone
Systems/Feeding/Lighting 9/22/10
Greetings Crew!
<Hello Jeanne>
I have a beautiful Macrodactyla cf. doreensis - it was called an
Australian Purple Tip Marble Anemone by the seller, but clearly
sub-labeled a Macrodactyla cf. doreensis. The seller stated that it was
quarantined <quarantined> since July and feeding well on Mysis
and brine shrimp and ground seafood and was very sticky. It has been
acclimated to my system via drip method over a 5 hour time frame and is
now in quarantine. I had done some significant research about its
needs: near perfect water chemistry - check; temp - 78 in the morning
before lights and 80 at lights out; bright light - 430-465 lumens in
the location I hope to settle it;
<The 430-465 lumens you state is not a bright light by any means.
Lumens is a measure of the amount of visible light and/or intensity.
Although high intensity lighting is needed for these anemones, the PAR
value of the lighting is most important. Bright lighting with little
PAR value will not provide the useable radiation (PUR) the anemone
needs.
Would have been much better to know your tank depth and the lighting
system you are presently using. Can you provide me with this?>
large system - 300 gallons actual water in the display with 150 gallons
in the sump; well established system - closed loop, running over a year
with significant live rock housing lots of little critters ias
<?> well as in the sand; may or may not bond with clowns - have a
pair of young maroons, so we shall see; eats small particles - raise
and feed brine shrimp daily via a continuous system from TOMS as well
as Cyclop eeze enriched frozen food; likes deep sand. Your article
(VERY helpful, informative and well written as always) specifies mucky,
fine, but not sterile sand. Have you a suggestion as to where I can
find such a thing? I have a 4-5" deep sand bed, but it not mucky.
This is a tidbit I had not read elsewhere.
<If your system is well established as you state, I can assure you
your sand bed is not sterile and should be fine for the anemone
providing the sand is of fine particle size.>
Suggestions will be appreciated. I have a good week till I move it out
of quarantine, but I want to present a comfy home immediately upon
moving it into the display tank. Many thanks,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jeanne
Re Sand For Macrodactyla doreensis/Anemone
Systems/Feeding/Lighting 9/22/10
Sorry about the typos - no matter how closely I check, I seem to miss
things. Sigh...
<No problem, just correcting/editing before posting. James (Salty
Dog)>
Re Sand For Macrodactyla doreensis/Anemone
Systems/Feeding/Lighting 9/22/10
<Hello Jeanne>
James, please look at this again... I answered your questions in the
body of the text.
<Oh, Jeanne, please do not reply this way. Makes more work for me if
I have to cut/paste. Just respond as you would a normal email.>
Absolutely. I mistakenly though the lumens would be more helpful.
<Mmm, not really, lumen value is of no use if PAR values are
poor.>
Sorry. The tank is 24" deep, with 4-5 inches of sand bed. The
lights are 18" above the water. Two units contain a brand new 250W
metal halide bulb with 2 - 24W actinic T5s and two units contain a
brand new
400W metal halide bulb with 2 - 24W actinic T5s. The 250s are 10K and
the 400s are 14K. All 4 units are 24", their length is
perpendicular to the length of the tank and they are hung in the
following order:
250W, 400W, gap for acrylic tank's cross brace, 400W, 250W. I run
them for 10 hours a day; all the actinics come on first, followed by
each MH unit in a series from east to west with a 30 minute staggering
of the start time. (This means each MH is running 8 hours.)
<Mmm, where did you get those lumen numbers from? With your
lighting, these values should be much higher than what you report.
Nonetheless, your lighting is just fine for keeping this anemone
species.
James (Salty Dog)>
Jeanne
Re Sand For Macrodactyla doreensis/Anemone Systems/Lighting
9/22/10
Again, sorry for the unhelpful reply style.
<No problem Jeanne, just wanted you to be aware of.>
The lumen numbers may be wrong. This a new monitor and I may not be
using it correctly. I'll study up.
<OK>
My question remains the appropriateness of my sand bed. You wrote that
my established system should not be sterile and the only concern would
be the sand particle size. Here was my reply:
I am aware that my sand bed in not sterile. But I would not call the
sand particles fine by any means. Should I just go buy some fine sand,
dig out an area of my current bed and put the fine sand there, and
let nature take its course inhabiting it?
<Would work providing the anemone is happy where it is and does not
move. May be worth a try.>
I am certain that any sand I add will quickly stop being sterile. I am
not sure where to get this fine sand (or muck). Do I need to purchase
something like Walt Smith's Fiji Refugium Mud?
<Is a good product but quite expensive (about 100 bucks) just to
create a suitable substrate for the anemone to burrow in.>
This is my concern. How do I establish an area in my tank that will
suitably house this anemone in sand of its liking.
<I'd start by siphoning out the present substrate in the area
you would like the anemone. Then I would
fill this area in with CaribSea Aragamax Sugar Size Sand. If the
anemone decides to move, you will have
to pave its way in the same manner. I suggest digging/making a hole in
the area you would like the anemone to be, then place the column in the
hole and fill the remaining cavity with sand.....see what
happens.>
Thanks again,
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jeanne
LT Purple Anemone Help/Macrodoreensis Health
9/22/10
Hi there
<Hello Ewanho>
I have a purple LT anemone that is about 2 months old - 6 inches across
when opened. It has recently lost a lot of the purple color and looks
sick. Water condition is good, but lighting is 54W x 4 , 1 10K, 1 Fiji
Purple, 1 actinic, 1 deep water actinic. The lighting is adjusted
during the day. <?>
Likely I will move the guy to a tank with MH 250W.
<Not likely, will be a must. Your present lighting is no where near
intense enough for this anemone.>
Question: Would direct feeding of DT's phytoplankton or Marine Snow
help get this guy back? Tried PE Mysis, but he tends not to bring it to
his mouth. Is there another product you could recommend. It rejects
small mashed up pieces of shrimp/scallop mix.
<Not surprising. Anemones in poor condition do reject food
offerings. This anemone needs to be placed under more intense light if
it is going to have
a chance at survival. Do read here and related articles/FAQs found in
the header. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Ewanho
Purple Macrodactyla Doreensis Floating On Bottom Of Tank
After Feeding/Macrodactyla Systems/Health 8/5/10
Hi,
<Hello Eric>
I have a purple Macrodactyla doreensis. I have had it for about a week
and it moved around a few times and has stayed put in a spot for about
3 days and looking pretty good. I fed it last night a half of a
silverside, and checked back about an hour later and found that it had
left its position and it's foot was quite inflated and is just kind
of
floating/laying on the bottom of the tank moving around with the
current. Sometimes it's foot up and tentacles down toward the sand.
It has been doing this for about 14 hours now, which I have now left
for work. I had made some attempts at trying to put it in a correct
position. It doesn't react to much too my touching it, although
there is some movement on some of its tentacles sometimes, but not
much. I don't know if this is on it's way out or a normal
reaction to feeding. Any help would be appreciated. I have a 75 gal, T5
lighting.
<This anemone is one of the more difficult species of anemones to
keep.
Since you provided little system information, I strongly suggest
reading here and related articles/FAQ's found in the header which
will guide you to the requirements/needs of this anemone under captive
conditions.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
thank you
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Eric
Bristle Worm Removal & Anemone Question, LTA
sys. 8/5/10
Hello, Crew!
<Hello Ashley>
I have a 90 gallon reef aquarium with 2 Ocellaris clowns, 1 Royal
Gramma, 1 Carpenter's Wrasse, 1 Coral Beauty Angel, 1 Powder Brown
Tang, 1 Yellow Tang,
<Not enough room here for these>
2 Blue/Green Chromis, 1 Midas Blenny, 1 Snowflake Eel,
<A danger to your smaller fishes as it grows>
1 long tentacle anemone, 1 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (which I have been
trying to move to another tank for a month to protect it from the eel
that just came in yesterday), as well as various hermits and snails. I
am also planning to add a pair of Blue Star Leopard Wrasses in the next
few months.
<You are overstocked here already>
I have noticed a few bristle worms hanging out and I was wondering if
there was something I could purchase which might help kill these
predators.
<These are actually detritivores not predators, and it is 99% likely
that they are beneficial rather than dangerous. Have you read WWM re?
If you do want to remove them, it is best done by trapping initially,
followed by a reduction in food to the system. They feed and multiply
on detritus>.
I have a long tentacle anemone and I would hate to see it damaged by
these pests.
<Not pests. Part of the biodiversity of your system. Better to enjoy
these than waste your time removing something that is doing a good job,
i.e. eating detritus while producing plankton>.
I have also set-up a 16 gallon refugium (completely separate from the
main tank) this week, and I see a bunch of bristle worms in the new
live rock I bought. I would like to put something in this tank when it
finishes cycling
to get them under control before I add plants and possibly seahorses.
It can eventually be moved to my 90 gallon, or kept in the 16 gallon
tank, depending on what kind of critter it is and what I decide to put
in the tank later on. Suggestions?
<None. Control of these if they get to plague proportions is gone
over on wwm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/worms.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bristlewrmfaqs.htm
>
Finally, I purchased a long tentacle anemone a little over a week ago
and he has yet to attach to a rock.
<Because they don't. They need a deep sand bed (6 inches deep
and a foot across of mature sand) and a lot of space>
He has been sitting in a cave since putting him in, and every time I
try to move him he ends up in the same spot.
<Trying to move anemones yourself is futile I'm afraid. They go
where they want to. One of the reasons these are best for species only
displays>
I think his foot may have been damaged, because there was some white
stringy stuff coming from the base, but most of that has gone away now.
It is nice and puffy, opened up, and the mouth is just a small opening
(no guts coming out). Seems healthy, and I am pretty sure it ate a
Chromis a few days ago. Went from 6 Chromis to 2 in just three days...
Soon after I saw a brown slime coming from the opening in the
anemone's base. I have tried everything from burying it's base
in the sand, to using a net to encourage it to attach, to gently
placing the base in a hole in the rocks, etc. Nothing seems to work! I
haven't touched it in a few days...is there anything else I can do
or should I continue to let it be? Should I be worried that it is
dying?
<Read/ learn about this animal, this would have better been done
before purchase http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
>
As always, any help is appreciated. All of you are always so helpful. I
am a big fan of the site and its never-ending information.
<No problem>
Have a wonderful
evening.
<Thank you!>
Ashley
<Simon>
Well done Simon! BobF
Anemone Question/Macrodactyla Systems 8/4/10
Hi,
<Hello Trevor>
This is my first time asking a question here :o) yay
So first here's some tank info, its a 45g salt water tank which has
been running for over 6 months now with 48" T5 Lights,
<How many and what Kelvin temperature, two, three, four?>
salinity is 1.024 - 1.025 and nitrites and ammonia are 0 and nitrates
are at 5. We have in the tank 2 Tomato Clown fish, a Pixie Hawkfish and
2 nice Green Spotted Puffers, they don't bother any of the fish. We
also have some small corals in there 1 frogspan <Frogspawn>, 1
Tree Leather and some Zoas.
<Oh boy, in trouble already. These fish will grow much too large for
a 45 gallon tank. The Green Spotted Puffer is actually a brackish water
species and becomes very aggressive as it ages. I suggest taking the
puffers back
to your LFS. Puffers require specialized care/feeding to live long term
and your experience level and system will prevent that. I would also
suggest exchanging the Tomato Clownfish. Again, will grow too large for
your system. Two Amphiprion ocellaris (Nemo clownfish) would have been
a much better choice.>
Just 2 days ago we bought a very nice Long Tentacle Anemone,
<Oh no, you're hurting me. LTA's are difficult to keep long
term and your lighting is likely borderline at best.>
the LFS guy said it would just stick the sand and bury himself where he
likes.
<Did your LFS ask you about your system before selling you
this?>
So it's moved about half a foot since then but hasn't found a
spot yet.
<Isn't happy where it is.>
Its still sticky feeling as I gave it a small piece of shrimp after I
fed my puffer fish. It's not closed up but its not all the way
opened either.
<Return/exchange it, your present system will not support this
animal.
Read here. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
My question is how long roughly will it take before it finds somewhere
to settle in, and will it try and climb the rocks to go up more?
<Reading where I linked you will explain all.>
Thanks in advance :o)
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Question/Macrodactyla Systems 8/4/10
Thanks for your reply :o)
<You're welcome>
About the 2 gsp, I have seen many others who have them and they start
out in brackish then go to full marine and my puffs are very healthy
and eat great and they have never puffed or shown any signs of distress
or ill health.
<Didn't say they couldn't be kept in saltwater, just that
some care is required, largely keeping their teeth trimmed by feeding
proper foods.
Might want to read here and related articles/FAQ's.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/puffers.htm>
Also the LFS we go to does strictly marine and the owner has a few
tanks of her own with this type of anemone along with other kinds and
she uses less light than I do and her anemones are thriving and doing
great. Right
now my anemone has found a spot between two rocks on the bottom and has
eaten a small peice <piece> of shrimp.
Everything I have in my tank is doing very well and growing nicely and
showing no signs of doing poorly. I'm not trying to sound like I
know more, just that at the moment everything in my tank is doing
nicely I have coraline growing on the sides and the sand.
<Well, I guess there wasn't much need in contacting us.>
Thanks again for the reply :)
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Anemone Question/Macrodactyla Systems 8/4/10
I'm sorry if I was coming off rude,
<Didn't detect rudeness.>
I really didn't mean to. At night when I turn off the tank lights
the anemone will stretch up a bit and last night it fell over. I'm
going to keep my eye on it tonight and see what happens because
it's a better place then before and it hasn't moved from there
since this morning so I'm thinking it must like this spot and
hopefully it stays there :o)
<And hopefully you will read the link I sent earlier on
LTA's.>
I feed my puffers clams, shrimp, scallop and a few snails although they
dont show much interest in them. I've never had any issues with
their beaks and I've even seen them nibble on the live rock or on
the clam shells.
<Suggest reading the puffer link as well, does help immensely to
know an animals needs/requirements for keeping such for a long
term.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Trevor
Purple LT Anemone... poor env., incomp...
4/15/10
Hello!
<Hi Brandon>
Iv tried figuring this out on my own, but I have had the toughest time
keeping my Purple Long Tentacle Anemone. Everything seems to be OK with
it, it is sticky, mostly purple, base is vibrant orange, but I
can't keep the thing still.
<It is not happy>
It doesn't seem to latch on to anything, All he seems to do is
explore the tank, and almost always stays in a shady area. I call him
Marco by the way, after the explorer :)
Here are my tank specs to the best I know to give :
(I wish I'd found this site before I made purchases)
<Ok>
29 Gallons (I know, small)
<Yes. Probably too small for one LTA. Impossible to keep two
here>
Basic Lighting (Photosynthetic and Daylight)
<Not enough>
A good amount of rocks (15-20 pounds?)
<Probably too much if it is covering the sand>
3 Inch deep Sand Bed
<Too shallow>
1 Ocellaris Clown
1 Maroon Clown
<Not compatible. Better to swap this out for another
Ocellaris>
1 Engineer Goby (He stays to himself)
<Not surprised with the Maroon in there>
(This is where you really yell at me)
<No yelling! Promise!>
1 newly obtained Hermit Crab (quite big) with a Calliactis attached to
him
(This is how I found you guys, and I've learned that I'll be
doing plenty of feeding)
<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/twaanemfdgfaqs.htm>
1 Long Tentacle Anemone
1 Purple Long Tentacle Anemone (Marco)
What can I do to make this guy stick to a nice spot?
<Nothing. He is doomed in this setting>
I feel like he is committing suicide when he holes up under a rock with
no light. Do I just let him hole up wherever he likes even if there is
no lighting and i cant see him?
<No, I would try to take him back to the shop. They should not have
sold you this animal. Read here, they need at least a foot square space
of sand each, with good lighting and a sand bed of at least 6 inches.
Also, two together are not compatible unless they are clones, so one is
also killing the other. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
>
Also, I drop frozen Mysis that I thaw out in water directly from the
tank almost every day, and it seems like the Regular Anemone eats it, I
haven't seen Marco (who has no host, for the life of me I don't
know why the Maroon wont warm up to him) eat the Mysis (which is all I
have, do i get something else?) even after the Mysis touching its
tentacles.
<Feeding is not the main issue here'¦ the environment is.
You make no mention of water quality either>
The regular Anemone has been there for about 2 months, Marco about 1
month, and I just added the Hermit today. Have I doomed someone along
the way or can I fix this?
<You can fix this by.. removing one Anemone, providing 6 inches of
live sand for the other.. removing the Maroon, improving your
lighting.. and oh yeah'¦ these should not be placed in systems
that have sand beds under a year old either.>
Maybe the Hermit would love our Florida beaches . . . : p
<Please don't release this animal into the wild.. this is
appalling practice for many reasons>
Thank you for any reply :)
<No problem Brandon. I'm sorry I could not provide better news
for you.>
Brandon
<Simon>
Re: Purple LT Anemone 4/16/10
<Hello Brandon>
First Off, Thank you so much Simon for helping me!
(Water quality seems to be fine by the way)
<No worries!>
I've decided I will get another tank, because I know the supplier
won't help me. In fact I won't be helping them much anymore
either!
<Mmm, this is a very common practice - mis-selling Anemones>
On another note, the regular Anemone is currently attached to a rock
and loves it there (and is great for show). The current sand bed is 2
years old, has copepods, and tons of other micro-organisms (it is so
fun to watch!)
<Great!>
From my understanding I need to add at least another 6 Inches and
remove a few rocks.
<No, you need to add TO 6 inches. Since you have 3 already, this can
be done an inch at a time, once every 6 weeks or so. There is plenty of
guidance here & related http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dsbmaint.htm>
So would the best move be getting another tank and working from there
or find someone to donate poor Marco to?
<Either/ or would be better than the current situation. I would have
a larger tank with just the one Anemone if it was me>
The Manifest Destiny depends on Marco's survival.
<Yes, for sure! Expansion of the available territory IS
required>
Also would it be best to move the Maroon into a new tank? I believe I
can obtain a seasoned 35 Gallon tank from my girlfriend, who always has
it running, but no much in there but rock.
<It is better to choose one species of Clown, OR another, and have a
pair. If you have a bigger system then the larger and more aggressive
Maroon would be fine. If you stick to the smaller system then you are
better off with the Ocellaris>
And lastly, since the sand needs to be deeper, how do I go about
putting it in when it would be younger than 1 year?
<Posted. An inch at a time>
The Hermit seems to be quite happy where he is :) I would never release
him, only find a new home.
<Good to hear!>
Thanks again!
I'm glad I've found a place with seemingly all the answers
<Heee! Not necessarily all, but definitely 'some'.
Simon>
Is My Purple LTA OK?/Macrodactyla
doreensis/Health/Systems 1/29/10
Hello!
<Hello Dani>
So I need to ask for some help... I bought this purple LTA on
Saturday before doing any research (oops!). I have a 28gallon
Nano cube cfi that has only been set up for about a month.
<Oops again. Too small a system for keeping this animal and
much too new of a system.>
It looks like my lighting is 105w/8w cf quad;
<Borderline lighting at best for this anemone.>
115v-1ph-60hz and my pump is 16w/266gph.(this is off of the tank
specs) I have 20lbs of live sand and about 30lbs of live rock. My
friends living in the tank are 2 False Percula Clowns, 1
Peppermint Shrimp, 1 Fire Shrimp, 1 Serpent star, 1 sand sifting
cucumber,
<Tank too new, too small to sustain the cucumber, problems may
lie ahead.>
5 red leg and 5 blue leg hermits, 10 snails (2 kinds I can't
recall the names), 2 small Zoas and a hammer coral.
<Oops again, too small a system for keeping an anemone with
corals.>
My specs are: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, ph 7.4 (working to
raise by adding reef builder to bring up alkalinity) dKH 8 (on
Sunday before lights out and after adding a dose of reef builder
that day), sg 1.022, temp 81. I have been doing a 2 gallon water
change once a week and I test parameters about every other day.
(I am very paranoid about my water levels). Anyway, this anemone
just sits in this spot and won't attach to anything and seems
to have a gaping mouth.
<It will not attach to rocks, burrows into the sand in nature.
This anemone will be short lived, I'd return if possible or
risk poisoning your entire system.>
I tried to get the best pics I could and after I took them and
was typing my email it shriveled up on one side. I am very
worried that this fella is going to die and kill everyone in my
tank.
<It will.>
I just wanted to know if you thought it would be OK or if I
should pull it before he does too much damage?
<Will not be OK, I'd try and return.....good luck here.
Should have researched this animal before buying, as to it's
needs/system requirements.
A little late now, but do read here.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
Thanks!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Dani
|
|
Long Tentacle Anemone/Systems/Health 9/5/09
<Hello Matt>
Let me start by giving my Parameters, Nitrate 20 Nitrite 0 ph 8.4 and
Ammonia 0.
I have a 20 gallon Saltwater tank with 20 Lbs. of LS and about 15 lbs.
of Live rock (not much I know but it costs $10.99Lb where I live). I
have 2 Yellow Tail Damsels, 2 Percula Clowns and a Royal Gramma, with a
Chocolate chip Star, 2 Peppermint Shrimp and a few turbo snails for
cleanup.
<Would not add any more fish, you are stocked to the limit and then
some.>
Right now I'm <I'm> using 2 50/50 18 Watt Compact
florescent lights. Now to my main question. I have a long tentacle
anemone I bought from my LFG <LFS> yesterday, It has a bring
orange base with brownish tentacles.
<Tank to small for keeping such, and your lighting is no where near
enough to keep this animal alive, and your fish are at risk, especially
in such close quarters.>
My problem is he wont grab a hold of anything, When I first put him in,
the current kind of moved him around and he finally started to sit
still. From what I can tell his foot hasn't grabbed any part of my
tank, He wedged his foot under some LR I have but the base isn't
touching anything. From yesterday evening till this morning he's
moved a few inches but nothing much, and his reactions to me touching a
tentacle seems a little slow. The tentacles and foot are still sticky
but I want to make sure everything seems okay. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Also on a side note have you ever seen a yellow tail damsel host on an
anemone?
<Yes.>
My clowns wont go near but my Yellow Tail sleeps inside of the middle,
Kind of Odd if you ask me.
<The clowns are likely tank bred/raised and generally will not
associate with anemones. I'm guessing you are new to this hobby and
are not aware of the difficulty in keeping an anemone alive for any
length of time.
Joyce Wilkerson, P.E., once conducted a survey as to the above.
The survey from volunteers showed that 45% of anemones kept by
hobbyists with less
than 2 years of marine aquarium keeping experience were dead after an
average of 3 months.
Those hobbyists with 2-5 years experience were not a lot more
successful with 30% of the anemones dying in an average of 7 months.
Only 5% of those surveyed with 2-5 years experience had kept their
anemone for two years or more.
Even among hobbyists with more than 5 years experience, 36% of anemones
kept were dead after an average of 8 months. One in 6 anemones in the
survey reached the 24 months in captivity milestone.
Only one out of every 13 anemones in the survey had been in captivity
for 3 years or more.
One in every 32 reached 5 years in captivity.
In my experience, a high percentage of the "one in every 32"
were likely Entacmaea quadricolor, the Bubble Tip Anemone, which are a
little easier to keep and less light demanding.
I suggest you return the anemone, it will just cause you more problems
when it dies, will poison
the water and likely kill your fish.
Do read/learn here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
and here,
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
LTA Question/Acclimation 3/16/09
I have read and searched your site, and found other folks with the same
issue. I however would like to know how long should one wait until
being concerned that a newly introduced LTA doesn't attach to the
substrate (sand)?
<A healthy specimen will usually attach in a few days at
most.>
The LTA was introduced yesterday, and I have tried three separate times
to set him upright, but he eventually tips back over. I have a 300
gallon tank with three Tangs, one Bird Wrasse, one false Percula, and
one Zebra Moray eel. No corals, lots of healthy live rock, and very
fine sand bed (approx. 5-6" deep).
I bought the LTA from a local fish store where he was attached to a
nearly bare bottom tank with very small dusting of sand. Foot looks
good, with no visible tears, and tentacles look good as well, with the
exception that they are not nearly as inflated as in the fish store. I
guess I am looking for confirmation that at this point, just leave
alone and monitor, and how long could this go on with the LTA still
being healthy? Also should I try to feed? The mouth is slightly open,
but not a lot.
<The anemone likely won't feed until attached and in full
bloom.>
Lighting consists of (4) 250 MH lights, bulbs less than four months
old.
Every other week water changes, no detectable nitrites / ammonia, less
than 10 nitrates, 8.2 PH, 79-82 F.
<The problem with anemones is that they are poor shippers where
changes in pH, temperature, light, etc., will have a negative impact on
them. Most importers, wholesalers, and dealers generally do not provide
ideal lighting for them during their short stay and this can lead to a
gradual loss of Zooanthellae in the anemone. Your lighting system is
ideal for the LTA but light acclimation should be carried out. The fine
sand bed is good and you may want to create a hole in the sand down to
the glass, then cover an inch or so of the pedal disc with sand. If
your flow rate is a little strong, you might reduce this somewhat until
the anemone attaches. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's on
this anemone.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
And here on light acclimation.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm>
Your input is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for all you do, you all are a great resource, and I applaud
all of the work you have recently done on your site.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Regards,
Steven
Re LTA Question/Acclimation 3/16/09
Sorry, I forgot to ask one more question. Although in reading the
articles indicating that the LTA attaches to substrates, would it be
worth a try to set the foot into rocks to see if it will attach? I have
many openings
that seem to be a perfect size for the foot, and it appears would give
support to keep upright.
<I'd try the sand method I suggested in the previous email
first. Do have some patience here as these are not the easiest animals
to acclimate.
James (Salty Dog)>
Re LTA Question/Acclimation 3/16/09
Thank you very much for your reply!
<You're welcome.>
I will do as you recommend and dig a hole and see if that works. Only
question I have is, that since the sand bed likely is acting as a
filter as well, is there any risk of releasing any toxic reaction from
disturbing the sand that deep (5-6")?
<Shouldn't, we are not talking that large of a hole.>
I don't want to trigger a secondary issue if avoidable, however I
tend to agree that if this LTA is going to attach / thrive I think some
amount of manipulation is likely necessary.
<It's a start, try it for a few days and do read the links in
the previous email.>
Your comments are greatly appreciated.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Steven
New Long Tentacle Anemone, LTA, Improper Environment
-- 4/8/08 Hey guys, <Hello Chris, Brenda here!> This is the
first time I'm writing in, but have been coming back to this site
time and again for information. I have to say, at the very least, this
is a great site; very informative, both through the articles and from
the email questions. <Great to hear you find it helpful!> With
that said, onto my questions. I have a 20 gallon long with a long
tentacle anemone and a yellow stripe clownfish in it. <A 20 gallon
tank is a bit small for an anemone.> Currently I have a 65 watt
power compact which is half 10,000k daylight and half blue actinic plus
a T-5 fixture with one 18 watt 10,000k daylight bulb and one 18 watt
True Actinic 03 bulb. This lighting setup doesn't seem to be
sufficient for the anemone. <Do the T-5 bulbs have individual
reflectors?> Now I have two choices, first, I could purchase a metal
halide lighting system or, I could move one of my power compact from
one of my other tanks to the 20 gallon long. The specs for this power
compact is 1 x 65 watt 10,000k daylight and 1 x 65 watt blue actinic.
<This is still not sufficient lighting. Actinic does not provide
much more than aesthetics. > If I go with the metal halide, do you
think a 150 watt metal halide fixture along with the above mentioned
T-5 fixture would be too much for a tank of this size? <The 150 watt
MH would be sufficient, but with only one bulb, it is not going to
cover the entire area of the tank.> The height of the tank is about
12-13". My other question is regarding the long tentacle anemone,
I know they usually attach their foot quite deep into sandy substrates.
My anemone doesn't seem to be doing that. It attaches itself
partially into the substrate and partially onto the live rocks.
<This is not uncommon.> I have about 4-5" of live sand and I
have never seen it bury itself more than 1-2" into the sand and
what's more, it seems to like being partially on the live rocks. I
only had it for about 2 weeks and it has moved to 3 different locations
already, though all three locations are within a couple of inches of
one another. <It is looking for a suitable place, likely more
lighting.> The anemone looks healthy with a tight mouth and long,
expanded tentacles. <Good!> In fact, the anemone as a whole is
usually expanded quite large. One more curious thing I've noticed
is that the anemone seems to expand and look more vibrant when the
lights goes off and the lunar lights comes on than when the daylight
and actinic blue light are on. Are any of the above normal? <It
sounds a bit stressed. Wild collection, shipping, new environment,
lighting, and poor water quality, can all cause stress on anemones. Is
the anemone eating? If so, what, and how big of portions? What are your
water parameters? More information found here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm and the related FAQs at
the top. > Any suggestions and/or conclusions would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks. Chris <You're welcome! Hope this helps!
Brenda>
LTA Question, sys. mostly 3/9/08 Dear
Wet Web, <Hey, John. Mike I with you here> Thank you in advance
for all the help you have given me and my fellow reefers. You really
have saved life's in the aquarium aspect with all the exceptional
information you have on here. With that said on with the questions :)
<Thanks for the thanks, from all the team here> I recently
purchased a beautiful LTA anemone from the LFS today. I brought him
home and acclimated him and within no time he was already open,
tentacles full of water and loving his new home. Mouth is not
"gaping" but is open slightly maybe he's hungry? <Over
the first day, a slightly open mouth would not concern me - acclimation
(beyond what you have done) takes these animals a little while longer,
a day or so> I tried to attach him to a rock but he just
wouldn't have it, I read a little more on here and saw that they
would prefer attaching in sand or a muddy substrate so I moved him to
the sand bed which is 3-4in of aragonite where he currently sits.
<Stretch that a little to 4 - 5 inches, but I'm being picky!
Heee!> I have all pumps in my system off expect my return so he
doesn't blow around in the current and potentially sting something.
(is this a good technique for 5-6 hours just so he can find his
footing?). <Yup, providing this does not interfere so much with the
oxygen/waste management/respiration of other animals in the tank -
However, if the substrate is right, would take less time for a healthy
specimen to "dig in"> He is being housed under 39W 10,000K
T5 HO fixture that is about 6in off the surface of the water 2 actinic
2 daylights. He is all the way at the bottom of my tank in the sand so
I am hoping that once he attaches he will move up the rock in-front of
him and find a nice place to thrive? <As you've discovered, they
prefer sand, so unlikely to move up the rock> Should this fixture
suffice? and will he be ok in the sand bed for now? I sure hope so
because I cant afford another light. I may be worrying too much and
should just let him get used to his new home? I'm not sure what to
do. Please Help. Thanks <John, you don't mention how big your
tank is, but likely that lighting is insufficient. Do read this link
and the other indices:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
to get a feel for what may be required in your tank. Hope that helps, Mike I>
LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/12/08 I have a
one year old 75 gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch
DSB fuge and into my toms <?> aquaria PS3 BakPak filter
with a skimmer. (by the way there is pretty much nothing about
this filter that I like). I have a couple of 300gph powerheads on
rotating deflectors on the back corners set on 45 degrees towards
the front of the tank and it does a pretty impressive job as far
as getting an alternating current. I also have a Hydor #3 facing
on all my sps corals, that obviously does not move, but one of
the deflectors hits the current from the Hydor to make it
alternate somewhat, and finally another powerhead on the other
corner pushing an 18watt uv. I have 100+ pounds of Fiji and
Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds of Fiji pink sand. that
gives me anywhere between 4inches and 8inches of sandbed
depending on how much moving of the sand my female Tomatoe Clown
digs up throughout the day. <Yes, they are good at that.>
Corals: huge green Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or
10 months and does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of
them full colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a
large amount of LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of
Frogspawn. I also have two rather large colonies of mushrooms. I
only have five fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in
the LTA ever since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a
Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang. My water parameters are as
follows: cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily) alk: 9-11dKH
(checked twice daily) ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of (
pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days) mag: 1230-1290 (tested every
30 days) temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer sg: 1.024 (
tested every water change) I do a 10 gallon water change every 14
days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of
full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank
every day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I
have to. I also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I
have to use other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer
and Reef Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine
every Saturday. Everything else should be included in water
changes except mag only because of limewater but I also have Reef
Advantage Magnesium which I add as needed. Now to the question at
hand. About nine months ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying),
probably should not have considering the tank was only a couple
of months old. I bought it nonetheless and for the first four
months it stayed right where it went to the first day, and it was
the ideal spot that I kind of made for it, right in the front
view of the tank. The LTA stayed there for about 4-5 months and
then moved to the back of the tank, pretty much around to the
other side of the rock it had always been under but now it is in
the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple of months and
then I added some rock for more coral places and in the process
halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone has grown
about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good color, very
very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a
week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at lights
out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it was
the night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially since
it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the same
spot all poofed out and looking spectacular. <Reason why
anemones and corals don't mix.> It should have a
significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not
an anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130
watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm
actinic T5. <I'd put another 10K T5 in place of the 460
actinic.> I just recently heard about some chemical warfare
going on in anything less than a monstrously large aquarium
housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got
along for so long and no problems. <Lucky> The Frogspawn
was in the tank before the LTA so they have been together always
and no prior problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the light
then he would end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much
brighter spots in my tank at the bottom in the sand than where he
is now.) So if he was searching around for more light why would
he go back to the same spot he was trying to leave? Although the
place where he is at now does not have much current, again there
are many more places in the tank that he could go while getting
more light and the same amount of current other than where he is
now but he always ends back where he started. By the way this all
started about 7 days ago and every night it is the same thing.
Another thing is that it all takes place throughout 4 hours.
After the actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of the
tank sits there for a while and then goes right back down to the
sand where he stays till the following night. And yet another
thing is that if I never looked in my tank at night (like when I
am usually asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the
night because you just cant get enough) then you would not even
know it was happening because the next morning it is right where
it was and opens up fully and still accepts food. I guess I do
have two easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the
anemone. #1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where
it does not get enough light like under a cliff or overhang?
<Very unlikely.> #2 With only 75 gallon system and 3 feet
of space and rock between my fairly large Frogspawn( 15 heads),
and my very large LTA (at least 16 inches across when fully
open), is this to small of a system to house them both? <Yes,
especially with the 16" span of the anemone. Do read here
and related articles/FAQ's above.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
In future queries, do cap all names of fish, coral, companies,
"i's", and do a spelling and grammar check. We just
do not have the time to edit queries with numerous
spelling/grammar errors before posting. Thank you. James (Salty
Dog)>
Re: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/13/08 wrote:
LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/12/08 I have a one year old 75 gallon
reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch DSB fuge and into my
toms aquaria PS3 Backpack filter with a skimmer. by the way there
is pretty much nothing about this filter that I like). I have a
couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating deflectors on the back
corners set on 45 degrees towards the front of the tank and it
does a pretty impressive job as far as getting an alternating
current. I also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps corals, that
obviously does not move, but one of the deflectors hits the
current from the Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and finally
another powerhead on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv. I
have 100+ pounds of Fiji and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds
of Fiji pink sand. that gives me anywhere between 4inches and
8inches of sandbed depending on how much moving of the sand my
female Tomatoe Clown digs up throughout the day. Corals: huge
green Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or 10 months and
does great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of them full
colonies), and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a large amount
of LPS corals including a 15 headed branch of Frogspawn. I also
have two rather large colonies of mushrooms. I only have five
fish and they are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the LTA ever
since I put it in 9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a Diamond
Spotted Goby and a Brown Tang. My water parameters are as
follows: cal: 400-420ppm (checked twice daily) alk: 9-11dKH
(checked twice daily) ph: 7.92 at night- 8.20 when 10k shut of (
pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days) mag: 1230-1290 (tested every
30 days) temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in summer sg: 1.024 (
tested every water change) I do a 10 gallon water change every 14
days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO water. I add 2 liters of
full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium 850ppm) to my tank
every day and supplement with SeaChem powder supplements when I
have to. I also make sure to take a break from the Kalk when I
have to use other additives (Reef Advantage Calcium, Reef Buffer
and Reef Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent marine iodine
every Saturday. Everything else should be included in water
changes except mag only because of limewater but I also have Reef
Advantage Magnesium which I add as needed. Now to the question at
hand. About nine months ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying),
probably should not have considering the tank was only a couple
of months old. I bought it nonetheless and for the first four
months it stayed right where it went to the first day, and it was
the ideal spot that I kind of made for it, right in the front
view of the tank. The LTA stayed there for about 4-5 months and
then moved to the back of the tank, pretty much around to the
other side of the rock it had always been under but now it is in
the back of the tank. It stayed there for a couple of months and
then I added some rock for more coral places and in the process
halfway shaded the anemone. At this point the anemone has grown
about 6 inches since I got it and has always had good color, very
very sticky, and always eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a
week). Anyway the anemone is just starting to act weird at lights
out and starts wondering just to end up in the same place it was
the night before. I know any wandering is bad (especially since
it keeps stinging my corals), but the next day it is in the same
spot all poofed out and looking spectacular. It should have a
significant amount of light. I can keep Acroporas alive why not
an anemone. I have 474 watts all together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130
watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt 10k T5, and 108watt 460nm
actinic T5. I just recently heard about some chemical warfare
going on in anything less than a monstrously large aquarium
housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how come they got
along for so long and no problems. The Frogspawn was in the tank
before the LTA so they have been together always and no prior
problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the light then he would
end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much brighter spots in my
tank at the bottom in the sand than where he is now.) So if he
was searching around for more light why would he go back to the
same spot he was trying to leave? Although the place where he is
at now does not have much current, again there are many more
places in the tank that he could go while getting more light and
the same amount of current other than where he is now but he
always ends back where he started. By the way this all started
about 7 days ago and every night it is the same thing. Another
thing is that it all takes place throughout 4 hours. After the
actinics go off he starts his climb to the top of the tank sits
there for a while and then goes right back down to the sand where
he stays till the following night. And yet another thing is that
if I never looked in my tank at night (like when I am usually
asleep not standing over my tank at all hours of the night
because you just cant get enough) then you would not even know it
was happening because the next morning it is right where it was
and opens up fully and still accepts food. I guess I do have two
easily answerable questions besides the behavior of the anemone.
#1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing a spot where it does
not get enough light like under a cliff or overhang? #2 With only
75 gallon system and 3 feet of space and rock between my fairly
large Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very large LTA (at least 16
inches across when fully open), is this to small of a system to
house them both? In future queries, do cap all names of fish,
coral, companies, "i's", and do a spelling and
grammar check. We just do not have the time to edit queries with
numerous spelling/grammar errors before posting. Thank you. James
(Salty Dog)> Thank you for the info, Salty Dog, and I will try
to be a little more careful in the future. <You're
welcome.> Sorry about the misinformation but my t5s are 54
watts each and four of them (HO-2 10k, and 2 460nm). Does that
matter or still the same reply, (change the other two to 10k) so
that all of my t5 bulbs are 10k. (Also what do you think about
just making two of them 12k or 14k, in place of the 460nm.
<I'd go with one actinic rather than two. Many folks have
just gone with all 14K lamps with good results. I just run two
14K MH's on my tank.> I have heard good things about high
growth rates for sps corals under that spectrum) Another
question, I have read to keep a 1/1 ratio of daylight and
actinic. Is it safe to say that is not entirely true? <Believe
that is dated info with the advent of the 10K-20K lamps.>
I'm sorry, but I did not find anything about the problems
between the long tentacle anemone and the frogspawn coral on the
link you provided. Is the problem that the LTA will sting the
frogspawn on contact, or can there be chemical problems without
contact? Is it a must to remove one or the other? <Problem is,
when the anemone moves, it stings everything along the way. As
far as corals, there will always be some allelopathy going on.
The use of a skimmer and/or high quality carbon/resin such as
Chemi-Pure goes a long way in removing these allelopathic
compounds.> Is it only the LTA that these problems exist? (or
the same with a BTA) <If you mean stinging this is true with
most anemones.> Another (kind of important) thing I forgot to
mention is I have always used dip tests for nitrate and the color
never changed. Since then my buddy got an electronic (Pinpoint)
nitrate tester, and my nitrates are always around 13ppm. It has
been that way for the 2 months that I have tested with the
electronic tester. This does not seem to be the trigger for the
anemones behavior, but do you think it is possible, just that it
took him a while to react? <No, a nitrate reading of 13ppm is
not all that bad but best to keep it under 10ppm.> The high
nitrate reading was the reason for the fuge setup. It has been
running now for about 20-30 days. I just took an Eclipse 6 and
drilled some holes in it and installed it in-line with my filter.
I put 10 lbs of medium course dry Arag to give me about 3-4
inches of substrate, but in another 2 weeks I am going to add the
other half of the 20 lbs. bag. Does this sound acceptable? I do
not have any macro in there now because it only has an eight watt
bulb in it and I do not think that is enough <enough>.
<As long as the bulb is a PC, it should be enough.> My
nitrates never change no matter how many water changes I do. Is
that normal? <Can be. Do you ever vacuum the substrate? This
area is one of the biggest causes of nitrates. If you use
mechanical filtration and do not clean/change pads weekly, the
trapped waste will turn into dissolved organics.> One more
thing, since the start of the tank I have had bio-balls in my
sump. I have never cleaned them (they are as clean as the day I
installed them, and there is no light that touches them). I have
recently heard that they are not that good in an established reef
tank. <In my opinion, the bio balls alone are not going to
create high nitrate levels. Bio Balls do not produce waste. Most
folks do not use Bio Balls if live rock is used. There is enough
beneficial bacteria on the rock to take care of the nitrification
process. I use the Bio Balls in my sump and never encounter
nitrate problems, in fact, my nitrates are always at the residual
level of the test kit.> Is that the same thing for the glass
cylinders? <The glass cylinders can trap very small particles
of waste. Some say they are efficient at removing nitrates.
I've never tried them so I cannot comment. The best way to
lower the nitrate level is by lowering the nutrient level in the
system. Do read this link.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm James (Salty
Dog)> Do you think I should take them out and pack my sump
with rock rubble instead? (This would be done very slowly.) Do
you think that the bio-balls are a contributing factor to the
nitrate problem?
|
Re: LTA/Compatibility/Systems 2/13/08 I have
a one year old 75 gallon reef tank that runs through a 5gal, 4inch
DSB fuge and into my toms aquaria PS3 Backpack filter with a
skimmer. by the way there is pretty much nothing about this filter
that I like). I have a couple of 300gph powerheads on rotating
deflectors on the back corners set on 45 degrees towards the front
of the tank and it does a pretty impressive job as far as getting
an alternating current. I also have a Hydor #3 facing on all my sps
corals, that obviously does not move, but one of the deflectors
hits the current from the Hydor to make it alternate somewhat, and
finally another powerhead on the other corner pushing an 18watt uv.
I have 100+ pounds of Fiji and Marshall Island rock, and 80+ pounds
of Fiji pink sand. (that gives me anywhere between 4inches and
8inches of sandbed depending on how much moving of the sand my
female Tomatoe Clown digs up throughout the day. Corals: huge green
Goniopora that has been in the tank for 9 or 10 months and does
great, 4 chunks of different acropora (2 of them full colonies),
and a hand size chunk of Hydnophora and a large amount of LPS
corals including a 15 headed branch of Frogspawn. I also have two
rather large colonies of mushrooms. I only have five fish and they
are a pair of Tomatoes that live in the LTA ever since I put it in
9 months ago, a Six Line Wrasse, a Diamond Spotted Goby and a Brown
Tang. My water parameters are as follows: cal: 400-420ppm (checked
twice daily) alk: 9-11dKH (checked twice daily) ph: 7.92 at night-
8.20 when 10k shut of ( pinpoint - calibrated every 20 days) mag:
1230-1290 (tested every 30 days) temp: 76-78 in winter, 78-80 in
summer sg: 1.024 ( tested every water change) I do a 10 gallon
water change every 14 days with Red Sea Coral Pro Salt and RO
water. I add 2 liters of full strength limewater (ph-12.50 calcium
850ppm) to my tank every day and supplement with SeaChem powder
supplements when I have to. I also make sure to take a break from
the Kalk when I have to use other additives (Reef Advantage
Calcium, Reef Buffer and Reef Builder). I also add 12 drops of Kent
marine iodine every Saturday. Everything else should be included in
water changes except mag only because of limewater but I also have
Reef Advantage Magnesium which I add as needed. Now to the question
at hand. About nine months ago I put in a LTA (compulsive buying),
probably should not have considering the tank was only a couple of
months old. I bought it nonetheless and for the first four months
it stayed right where it went to the first day, and it was the
ideal spot that I kind of made for it, right in the front view of
the tank. The LTA stayed there for about 4-5 months and then moved
to the back of the tank, pretty much around to the other side of
the rock it had always been under but now it is in the back of the
tank. It stayed there for a couple of months and then I added some
rock for more coral places and in the process halfway shaded the
anemone. At this point the anemone has grown about 6 inches since I
got it and has always had good color, very very sticky, and always
eats immediately( fed at least 1 time a week). Anyway the anemone
is just starting to act weird at lights out and starts wondering
just to end up in the same place it was the night before. I know
any wandering is bad (especially since it keeps stinging my
corals), but the next day it is in the same spot all poofed out and
looking spectacular. It should have a significant amount of light.
I can keep Acroporas alive why not an anemone. I have 474 watts all
together. 2-130w 10k PC, 2-130 watt 420 nm actinic PC, and 108 watt
10k T5, and 108watt 460nm actinic T5. I just recently heard about
some chemical warfare going on in anything less than a monstrously
large aquarium housing both Frogspawn and LTA. If this is true how
come they got along for so long and no problems. The Frogspawn was
in the tank before the LTA so they have been together always and no
prior problems. If my anemone is unhappy with the light then he
would end up in a brighter spot, ( there are much brighter spots in
my tank at the bottom in the sand than where he is now.) So if he
was searching around for more light why would he go back to the
same spot he was trying to leave? Although the place where he is at
now does not have much current, again there are many more places in
the tank that he could go while getting more light and the same
amount of current other than where he is now but he always ends
back where he started. By the way this all started about 7 days ago
and every night it is the same thing. Another thing is that it all
takes place throughout 4 hours. After the actinics go off he starts
his climb to the top of the tank sits there for a while and then
goes right back down to the sand where he stays till the following
night. And yet another thing is that if I never looked in my tank
at night (like when I am usually asleep not standing over my tank
at all hours of the night because you just cant get enough) then
you would not even know it was happening because the next morning
it is right where it was and opens up fully and still accepts food.
I guess I do have two easily answerable questions besides the
behavior of the anemone. #1 will an anemone kill itself by choosing
a spot where it does not get enough light like under a cliff or
overhang? #2 With only 75 gallon system and 3 feet of space and
rock between my fairly large Frogspawn( 15 heads), and my very
large LTA (at least 16 inches across when fully open), is this to
small of a system to house them both? In future queries, do cap all
names of fish, coral, companies, "i's", and do a
spelling and grammar check. We just do not have the time to edit
queries with numerous spelling/grammar errors before posting. Thank
you. James (Salty Dog)> Thank you for the info, Salty Dog, and I
will try to be a little more careful in the future. Sorry about the
misinformation but my t5s are 54 watts each and four of them (HO-2
10k, and 2 460nm). Does that matter or still the same reply,
(change the other two to 10k) so that all of my t5 bulbs are 10k.
(Also what do you think about just making two of them 12k or 14k,
in place of the 460nm. I have heard good things about high growth
rates for sps corals under that spectrum) Another question, I have
read to keep a 1/1 ratio of daylight and actinic. Is it safe to say
that is not entirely true? I'm sorry, but I did not find
anything about the problems between the long tentacle anemone and
the frogspawn coral on the link you provided. Is the problem that
the LTA will sting the frogspawn on contact, or can there be
chemical problems without contact? Is it a must to remove one or
the other? Is it only the LTA that these problems exist? (or the
same with a BTA) Another (kind of important) thing I forgot to
mention is I have always used dip tests for nitrate and the color
never changed. Since then my buddy got an electronic (Pinpoint)
nitrate tester, and my nitrates are always around 13ppm. It has
been that way for the 2 months that I have tested with the
electronic tester. This does not seem to be the trigger for the
anemones behavior, but do you think it is possible, just that it
took him a while to react? The high nitrate reading was the reason
for the fuge setup. It has been running now for about 20-30 days. I
just took an Eclipse 6 and drilled some holes in it and installed
it in-line with my filter. I put 10 lbs of medium course dry Arag
to give me about 3-4 inches of substrate, but in another 2 weeks I
am going to add the other half of the 20 lbs. bag. Does this sound
acceptable? I do not have any macro in there now because it only
has an eight watt bulb in it and I do not think that is enough . My
nitrates never change no matter how many water changes I do. Is
that normal? One more thing, since the start of the tank I have had
bio-balls in my sump. I have never cleaned them (they are as clean
as the day I installed them, and there is no light that touches
them). I have recently heard that they are not that good in an
established reef tank. I use the Bio Balls in my sump and never
encounter nitrate problems, in fact, my nitrates are always at the
residual level of the test kit.> Is that the same thing for the
glass cylinders? http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm
James (Salty Dog)> Do you think I should take them out and pack
my sump with rock rubble instead? (This would be done very
slowly.) 2/15/08 Do you think that the bio-balls are a
contributing factor to the nitrate problem? Thanks again, Salty
Dog. I am sure you guys are tired of hearing it by now but I have
to agree with everyone else and say you guys rock, and this is
probably one of the best sources of reliable info online. <Thank
you.> I do have one more question ( off subject but will
"reply" so you have all info about tank). Like I said
before, I do 10 gallon water change every 2 weeks and 5 gallons in
between. That equals out to 30 gallons every 4 weeks on an 80
gallon setup. (Although I cannot have 80 gallons in my system when
you figure all the displaced water because of rock and sand etc.,
so I am doing a good amount of water changes.) <Yes> It seems
no matter what, I get a surface film build-up by the time I am
ready for the next water change. The whole problem lies in the
overflow box. I don't know if you are familiar with it but it
is a Tom's Aquaria PS3. <Nope.> It has a skimmer but does
not work that great because the overflow box does not take water
right off the surface like it says it does because the slots for
the intake go into the water about four inches. So it will not pull
the surface film down. I cut some plexi and shoved it in there by
the slots and now it pulls of the top 1 inch of the water but the u
tube is so big that it keeps up with the heavy flow of the pump so
that it will not pull down the surface sludge. I have stewed on
this for months and the only other way I can think of doing this
right is to build/buy another overflow, but I ran into big problems
installing this fuge because the PS3 is just not compatible with
pretty much anything. What I mean to say is you just can't
"add onto" this setup like you could a big sump. So I was
thinking recently about just picking up one of those 12$ Tom's
Aquaria surface skimmers that hooks into a standard power filter
and grabbing one of the many spare power filters I have sitting
around and just letting it run for a day between water changes to
pull off the film. I would have this full of activated carbon
media. That should pull the organics out right? <As long as
surface water is being taken in, it should.> Okay If your with
me so far my question is this: I run 1 activated carbon floss
pre-filter pad that I change out every 2 weeks no matter how it
looks, and an activated carbon pillow that probably holds close to
2 or 3 cups of carbon that I change every month. Now I realize that
is a lot of carbon to be running on a reef tank all the time but I
do a lot of water changes and everything has always been fine,
besides that is just another conversation altogether. So I guess
the question is this, do you think running more carbon to pull the
surface film will just be too much activated carbon running in my
system, and also do you think that carbon would successfully remove
the film without pushing that water through a skimmer? <Too much
carbon, one cup would be plenty and no, the carbon isn't going
to do much in the way of removing surface sludge, carbon just traps
very fine particles/organic waste. Your best bet would be to invest
in a protein skimmer that draws it's water from the surface. In
that regard you will be removing surface scum and dissolved
organics and should improve the water quality very much. AquaC is
one company that offers add on surface skimmers for some of their
models. Go here. www.proteinskimmer.com James (Salty Dog)> |
New LTA, Not Enough Lighting, Too Small of Tank -- 8/24/07
Hey WWM crew, <Hello, Brenda here> I appreciate this site so very
much, the amount of information is almost daunting to sift through but
I am grateful to have such a large quantity to use as a resource. Down
to business. My boyfriend and I have a twenty gallon tank with 1
clarki, 1 long nose hawk, and 1 rusty angel (although I believe we are
about to trade him for a wrasse tomorrow with our local pet store).
<All of the fish that you currently have need a 30 gallon or larger
aquariums. What type of wrasse? Some need a much larger home than you
currently have.> The ph is 8.2, the salinity is 1.0026, nitrates are
at zero, and phosphates are almost zero. I have two CoraLife PC (2
10,000k daylights and 2 actinic. Each fixture has 28 watts between both
bulbs so a total of 56 watts. We have two pulsing xenias both doing
super. For a while the clown was even hosting in the larger of the two
xenias (awesome to watch). Today we decided to add an anemone. <You
do not have enough lighting to support any of the hosting anemones.>
Our local store sold us a LTA that was brought in by someone else about
6 months to a year ago. I looked healthy in the store, a tight mouth,
deep red color red base. We got it home, did a drip until temperature
and salinity were the same. <What about the rest of the water
parameters?> We added it to the tank and it immediately retreated to
one of the shaded areas under the live rock. It is still sticky, it
stuck to my hand when I placed it on the substrate and some substrate
is sticking to the base. I am almost positive that the lighting is not
too strong. <You need T-5 or Metal Halide for this anemone, and a
much larger aquarium.> What would cause this retreating reaction?
Stress? <Yes, changing environments is stressful on an anemone.>
I also believe that some of its zooxanthellae may have been released
during this process (slight discoloration to some tentacles and slime
strands dangling from tips of some tentacles). <It is possible.>
The Clarki left the xenia and within 10 minutes began trying to host. I
would hope this environment will be suitable and after a few days or
weeks the anemone will decide on a spot and settle in. Is there
anything I can do to help this process? Are my parameters off? <I
would need to know temperature, alkalinity, ammonia, nitrites, etc. to
answer that.> Or is the lighting too insufficient? <You
definitely need much stronger lighting here. I also recommend a much
larger tank, 50 gallons or more. In a 20 gallon tank water quality can
go down hill fast. This anemone may also out grow a 20 gallon rather
quickly.> I appreciate the advice, you guys are incredible. Thanks
Sarah <You're Welcome! Brenda>
Lighting, Anem. sys... 7/28/07 Hi WWM crew.
<Hello Ted> First off I must say I love your site even if the
amount of information can sometimes be daunting. I have learned a great
deal, even if some of it was a little late. <Better late than
never.> I have a 35 gal. aquarium that has been set up for about
three months now and it has been doing fine so far on very inadequate
lighting. There is about 20 lbs. of live rock, a few blue/green chromis
and a couple of false percula clowns, an assortment of hermits and
snails, a blood cleaner shrimp and an anemone (if I knew then what I
know now). The anemone is Macrodactyla Doreensis as far as I can tell,
and had I been more knowledgeable I would have waited much longer
before adding such a sensitive inhabitant even though he is very
attractive and interesting. All the chemistry is good as per
suggestions from WWM and all inhabitants seem to be doing just fine,
eating, moving and interacting just as I would hope and expect.
<Ted, even under the best conditions, anemones usually won't
last more than a year. Your tank is much too small for keeping anemones
for any length of time.> Now to the real question I set up the
aquarium with 20 watts of fluorescent lighting as I was told this would
be sufficient for now. <Ha, who told you that baloney.> I have
since learned that this probably not correct <Not probably, is
so.> so I purchased a 2 x 96 W power compact fixture for the
aquarium, 1 - 12,000K and 1 - actinic. I am now wondering how to
transition from 20 W on a 12 hour schedule to 192 W and on what
schedule? Should I simply remove the 20 W and start with the new light
on a shorter day and build up? <Yes.> Or should I go with 12
hours of light with some of those hours at 20 W and some at 192 W
slowly moving toward all 192 W and no 20 W? Perhaps a mix of these
would be best? <I'd just stay with the PC system.> I know
that the new light level is going to be a shock to the inhabitants but
I want to minimize it as much as possible. I have also seen where the
actinic is on for longer than the daylight lamp, is this necessary,
recommended, or just a little better way to do things? <Mostly
aesthetic reasons...a softer light to start and end with. I like to set
my timer up so the lights never go off or on in a darkened room.>
Thank you for your time and the abundance of information, <Do read
here and linked files above. Learn their requirements/needs.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
James (Salty Dog)> Ted
Anemone Lighting-A Serious Consideration
5/16/07 I have a 54 gallon corner 20 inches deep. I have a 36"
compact 92w 10k 92w actinic so 192 total and I'll be getting a
purple LTA and want to know if the lighting is enough cause I was told
it would be. I wanted your opinion. Thanks. <I am a big fan of PC
lighting for it's aesthetics and utility. I would be inclined to
say, however, that your lighting is at the minimum acceptability range
for an anemone. These animals require, among other things, intense
lighting. Really, your best light source for anemones would be a metal
halide system, such as a 150watt double-ended pendant (A Sunlight
Supply "Lumenmax" comes to mind as a good choice). Watts per
gallon is not a real measure of the efficiency of a lighting system. I
would not compromise lighting when contemplating keeping an anemone.
Really think of those halides.> Awesome website I have learned so
much in such a short time and I have been into saltwater for 5 years.
Oh yea all my parameters are 0 and ph is 8.1 calcium 400 alk 4.7. Plus
I was debating on spending my $ on a 65w compact 10 k if I
really needed to for the LTA. Thank you, Don V. <Honestly, I'd
consider selling your existing lighting system and upgrading to the
aforementioned halide system. Do keep reading up on anemone husbandry,
and make sure that your up for the serious challenge of these amazing
animals. Regards, Scott F.>
Was Hair algae invasion, now Relocating LTA - 3/15/07 Alex
(or whoever we are fortunate enough to get): <Hi Michael and Dianne,
you got Alex again tonight'¦> Thanks for the recent answers
about our long-haired algae invasion. We are planning to
spend this Sunday cleaning ALL the rock in the 120 with a toothbrush
and, while we're at it, rearrange everything. Part of this process
involves dismantling our 12-gallon nano (we prefer to give our
attention to the larger tank). Since we have three clarkiis in the 120,
we returned to our LFS the two small clownfish, and since we have two
lawnmower blennies in the 120, we returned our algae blenny. Very sad
to have to return fish we've come to enjoy watching, but preferable
to seeing them die. <That is sad. But the right thing to
do.> Anyway, that leaves us with one question. Our nano has a
very healthy, very happy LTA living in it. When he's wide
open, he's about six inches in diameter. We are not thrilled with
the idea of putting an anemone into the 120. <No'¦>
However, we have a clarkii living in our Goniopora (and we are afraid
he will eventually kill it). Perhaps having an anemone will encourage
him to move to a more appropriate home. (Although it is kind of cute to
watch him in the morning sleeping with his head on the closed-up coral
like it was a pillow.) <Awww'¦> But are we making a bad
decision? Should we return the LTA to the LFS instead of moving him
into our reef tank? (We listed the contents of our tank in the
long-haired algae communication.) <Unfortunately, it would not be a
good idea to add an LTA to the reef tank. Corals and
anemones are a volatile mix in the confines of an
aquarium. Read here and linked files at top of page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltacompfaqs.htm If you are still
considering getting out of the coral side of things, you could keep the
LTA in the large tank, but not with the corals. Otherwise it
should go back to the LFS also if you do not want to keep another
tank.> Thanks for helping us keep our tank safe and healthy for our
adopted occupants! <Sincerely hoping we can help'¦ Alex>
Michael and Dianne
How long should Metal Halide Lighting be on for a
LTA? - 3/12/07 Hello, <Hello, Brenda here> Can you
please tell me how many hours in a day do I have to leave my light on
for my long tentacle anemone? I have metal halide lighting. <It
would depend on the size of the tank, number of bulbs, and bulb
wattage. I suggest 8 - 10 hours and adjust from
there. Your anemone may move higher or lower, or even hide
in the rocks to adjust.> Thanks, Ivan <You're
welcome. Brenda>
LTA vs. Power head -- 3/09/07 <Hi Chris,
Brenda here> First of all, like everybody else, I want to say
thank you for all you guys do. You really have helped a
lot of people and marine animals!!! <You're welcome>
Well, to start off, today I came home to find that my wife had
purchased a LTA. She had called me earlier and said that when she
had put it in the tank, it went to the back in back of the rocks,
so she said that when I got home, I could get her out and put her
in front. <It is best to leave them alone. It was
still acclimating and looking for a comfortable place in its new
environment.> I came home from school, only to find the tank
semi cloudy and that the anemone was partly sucked up in one of the
power heads, so I immediately turned the power head off, and pulled
it out and took off the part she was hooked onto and put her in a
bucket with tank water. I tried to pry her out as gently as I could
from the screen and then placed her after rinsing her off a little
bit with that same water in my smaller tank. <Power heads are
dangerous to anemones, they need to be covered. Here are
some ideas: http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm >
She is pretty beat up on one half, I would really like to save her
because she is really pretty, but what can I do other then try and
letting her heal herself? Let me know what I can do
please! <The best thing that you can do now is keep your water
parameters perfect. Keep a close eye on it. If it starts
to look like it is melting or decaying, it is time to remove it and
do a water change before it pollutes the rest of your
tank. If things are going good after a few days, try
feeding a ¼' sized portion of silversides that has
been soaked in Selcon.> I also did a partial water change to the
big tank to get some of the cloudiness out, I have my skimmer on
and so it is starting to clear up already. <Good! Be
prepared to do more water changes.> I'm glad that all of her
didn't get chopped up, then I would really be in trouble.
Please let me know how to proceed. I have attached some pics of the
anemone, my tank and of some rocks. <Yes, I see the
pictures. The anemone is definitely not looking good,
but I wouldn't give up hope.> I was hoping that you could
identify what is growing on the rocks. There is an
orange jagged thing growing on one, and little round red/maroon
things growing on the other one, I was thinking that they might be
some type of coral but I'm not sure, thanks
for your help! <The red growing on the rock is a type of red
algae. Please search for red algae on
WetWebMedia. I'm not sure what the orange is, hard
to tell by picture. Any thoughts on this Bob? >
<<Keep bier in cool, dark places... this appears to be a
bunch of Rhodophytes to me as well. RMF>> Chris.
<You're welcome! Good luck with your
anemone! Brenda> |
|
|
LTA attachment/health, sys.
really 2/22/07 Hi, I purchased a LTA this
past weekend. It is purple in color and was fully open
and seemed healthy in the LFS. <Was it buried in the sand
there?> I inspected the foot and found no tears/abrasions.
<Good> I brought it home and acclimated it to my
tank over about 2 hours. My system consists of a 20g
tall tank <Too small> with 10g sump/fuge, skimmer, 130w pc
lighting...ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 5, ph 8.1, alk 3.75,
calcium 400, phosphate 0.05. I placed it in my tank
between two rocks in what I thought was a suitable
location. It opened up within an hour and looked happy
in its spot. There was no bleaching, but the mouth was
open possibly 1/4". Overnight it wandered to a
corner of the tank with a powerhead where it has remained ever
since. It occasionally deflates for about 10 min.s, but
winds up looking good as new a short time later.
<Not atypical behavior> Right now it is just lying on its
side and doesn't seem to be attaching/burying itself to
anything. I left it alone till this afternoon when I
went to great trouble to bury the foot. <Good> The LTA is
very top heavy and the slightest current from either my sump return
or powerhead (MaxiJet 900) would blow it away. <Mmm, needs much
deeper sand... several inches perhaps> Finally, I was able to
build a little mound for it, and it was sitting up at about a 45
degree angle. I went and ate dinner and when I came back
it had extended itself and plopped right back down horizontal on
the sand. I tried to feed it a pea sized piece of shrimp
yesterday, and its tentacles held on to the food. I
watched it for about 10-15 min.s and it slowly brought the food
closer to its mouth. I had to leave, but when I returned
the food was gone, although I don't know if it ate
it. I was hoping you could take a look at the attached
pictures and give me any indications on the health of the anemone.
<Does have the appearance of a very nice, healthy specimen> I
know they are delicate and I get worried when it starts acting
funny. Also, any insight on this thing attaching? I
don't want to stress it out too much by trying to bury it (its
tricky) repeatedly. <... Really needs a much larger world...
with deeper substrate. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm The linked
files above. Bob Fenner> |
|
Question on LTA's Small system, research 2/1/07 Hello,
<Hi.> I have a 29g tank with a LTA already in it. A friend in my
local reef club wants to give me another LTA and I was wondering if I
could place two of the same specimens in the tank w/o trouble?
<Well, until they bleach and die, yes. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
Should give you plenty of ammunition to help explain to your associate
at the club why your system won't likely support one LTA, let alone
multiples (which is a no-no, especially in a system of this small size)
-GrahamT> Thank <you(?)>, Trey
Anemone stuck in filter 10/8/06 Hi Bob, Please
help as I came home from work to find my long tentacle anemone stuck in
my filter. I turned it off and it had sever arm stuck in the holes. The
others were a greenish color. After I disconnected he inflated
slightly. and just sits face down. Is there anything I can do? I fed
Cyclops and saw color come back a little in just a few arms. I will
look for the sponge cover for the filter (beginners mistake). I feel
awful about such a stupid one. Michelle
<Michelle: Depending on how bad the damage was, he will
probably recover. From your description, it sounds like he
only had damage to tentacles and not his body. If he is no
longer attached to the filter, try setting him down face up on the sand
to see if he plants himself. As long as he's eating,
there is a good chance he will make a full recovery. Best of
luck, Roy>>
Hello, I have a 26g bowfront tank that I wish to set up as an
anemone/clown system. - 09/22/06 For lighting I have a 130w
orbit pc fixture. For water movement I will be using an AquaClear 110
power filter and a MaxiJet 600 powerhead. I also have 30lbs of CaribSea
Aragamax sand. I will be using about 26lbs of premium Fiji LR as well.
I have a 24g reef and it has been running great for 6 months, and I
have had reefs in the past, so I wanted to do something new. I'm
pretty sure the only anemone I would be able to keep would be a BTA,
but if possible I would like to try and LTA because I really wanted to
do a pair of Orange Skunk clowns. if not, I will more than likely do
the BTA with a single maroon clown. My question are, will I be able to
keep an LTA under my lighting, and would any other anemones be
possible? someone said I could try a carpet as well? if so how often
and what should I feed it? There will be no corals in this tank, just
the anemone. also, would I be able to do a few of those colorful
rock/flower anemones( Epicystis crucifer) in there as well? if I happen
to do the BTA, would I be able to do a pair of gold stripe maroons or
would I just have to do a single? I know they get big.
<<Jordan: I have a LTA in about 5" of sand under
400W MH SE lighting. The anemone seems to be thriving and is
about 18 inches in diameter. LTA's need a sand bed
several inches deep in order to bury their foot. Since you
have never kept an anemone, I suggest looking for a clone of the Bubble
Tip Anemone. They are much easier to keep, can live under
less powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't
pulled out of the ocean. Most species of clowns will easily
host in them. I had a pink skunk clown that hosted in my BTA
(until he found a way to jump out of the tank). Best of
luck, Roy> JB
Lighting for a Long Tentacle Anemone - 09/10/06
Hi, my name is Thomas. I recently was offered a purple Long Tentacle
Anemone for a very reasonable price, but before I give you the
impression that's my main reason for acquiring this animal let me
start off by saying I already was looking for a host anemone for my two
False Perc's (even though I know they could survive without one.)
The thought of it in my tank is just almost too tempting though. Maybe
I should break down my setup first so that you know exactly what else
is necessary to keep this animal alive. My tank is a 50 Gallon with 100
lbs of sand (4 inch depth should be ideal for an LTA), 70 lbs of live
rock, a Maxijet 1200 Power head centered on the back and 2 Maxijet
400's on it's sides (plenty of circulation), a Seaclone 100
Protein Skimmer powered by a Maxijet 1000, an Eheim 2217 Canister
Filter and for the lighting a 36" Odyssea with 2 96w 12K PC's,
one white the other actinic. That is my name concern over anything
else. That's exactly 3.84 watts per gallon assuming the tank has
the full 50 gallons of water only, but doesn't the live rock and
sand consume enough space to bring that ratio up a little, or should I
still get at least one more strip of light with maybe a 96w 50/50 or
all white? I'm already growing coralline algae all over my live
rock and even on some of the power heads. The tank has only been
running for about 4 months and change. Isn't that a good sign? My
PH is 8.3, salt gravity at a stable 1.021, ammonia normal according to
test and nitrites and nitrates as well. Please be of some help before I
make the mistake of purchasing an animal I simply can't provide a
suitable home for. <<Thomas: I have a LTA in about
5" of sand under 400W MH SE lighting. The anemone seems
to be thriving and is about 18 inches in diameter. Most
inverts like SG higher. You ought to bump it up to around
1.025 (I have mine at 1.0265 measured with a
refractometer). Since your tank is only 4 months old, and
you are still learning, I suggest waiting for a clone of the Bubble Tip
Anemone. They are much easier to keep, can live under less
powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't pulled
out of the ocean. Clowns will easily host in
them. Best of luck, Roy>>
Long Tentacle Anemone and lighting.
7/22/06 Hi guys! I just
bought a purplish green LTA yesterday from my LFS. In their tank it
looked great, so I purchased the LTA and now it doesn't look too
hot. it just lays on its side, this evening I noticed it was turned
inside out. As soon as I fed it some thawed out frozen food (Prime
Reef), it became very responsive and the tentacles inflated and it
looked happy for about 5 min then it let go of the food and just
started to close up. I have tested the tank's water, you name it I
tested for it and everything was perfect. the only thing left is maybe
the lighting. My lighting is 1 10k 65w PC and 1 65w Blue Actinic PC for
a total of 130 Watts of lighting. My tank is only a 20
gallon that is 17" tall with 2" of sand then the PC lights
are about 2.5 inches from the top of my take making the LTA only a
total of 17.5" away from the light. is this enough light for this
thing? My LFS told me it was but after reading a lot of forums I am not
to sure now. what is your opinion on this? Thank You Josh
<<Josh: I hate to tell you this; but, you should
probably take the anemone back. Usually most anemones sold
as LTA are Macrodactyla doreensis (MD). MD anemones will
only bury their foot in a deep sand bed. Thus, you should
probably have at least 6 inches vs. the 2 inches you
have. On top of that, they can get very
large. Mine is about 15 inches across. Your best
bet for a starter anemone would be a Bubble Tip Entacmaea quadricolor
clone that has split in another reefkeeper's tank. They
are pretty hardy and you won't be trying to take care of an anemone
that was just pulled out of the ocean. Best of luck,
Roy>>
LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006 Hi, <Hello
Charity> I was reading through your anemone faq's and came
across the advice to never buy a white anemone. <Think it meant a
bleached anemone.> I was at the local fish store and had been
researching and wanting a LTA for a while. Somehow I missed that advice
before. I have a: 55 gallon long aquarium Wet/dry Excalibur skimmer 1
pygmy bicolor angel (6 months in tank) 1 maroon clownfish (3 yrs in
tank) 1 yellow tang ( 1 year in tank) 1 hippo tang (1 inch,
1 year in tank) 4 turbo snails 1 rock of mushrooms 1 green star polyp 1
Montipora orange 2 strips of coral life 65 *2 50/50 lights (260 w) 1
strip of 40 watt no fluorescent lights Ammonia:0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate 10
ppm but did have a spike the night he was added. We did a 30 gallon
water change that night. Calcium: 380 (slowly raising it up) Ph: ranges
from 8.0 to 8.2 I have included pictures showing the decline over the
last few days. Is there any chance of survival? I feed him silversides.
The first night he took it immediately to his mouth. It has gotten
slower over the last couple of days but he does still eat. <For
starters, never attempt feeding an anemone until he anchors down and
blooms. None of the pics indicate an anchoring took place.> Any
advice you could provide would be wonderful! <It is not recommended
having fish other than clowns in the company of
anemones. Also looks like water flow may be a little
low. Is your total flow at least 600gph? I will
post a link or tow here for you to read along with related links
above. Will provide a link with info on their care,
requirements and keeping. Do read along with related
articles shown above title. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
Thanks! <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Charity <<James... where's the original msg., pix?
RMF>>
Re: LTA/Health/Systems - 06/07/2006
Hi James, <Hello Charity.> Thanks so much for the quick reply.
<You're welcome.> I do have 605 gph flow rated return on my
tank. <Do take into account head pressure loss. Will not
have an actual 605gph, especially if the pump is of the powerhead
type.> He was anchored to the glass under the sand at one point but
he has fallen over and remained since my maroon has been bothering him.
Should I move the sand back again. <Not necessary, the LTA should
anchor itself in the evening when there are no menacing fish
around. You could put a clear acrylic/plastic perforated
container over him until he anchors. Will have to do the
perforations yourself, unlikely you will find anything like this.> I
will do the readings you suggested. <I hope you do. We
just do not have the time to elaborate on all the details of keeping
anemones, that is what the Wet Web Site is for. Can learn
much by reading FAQ's on the subject also. Do
learn/use.> Thanks again! <You're welcome. James
(Salty Dog)> Charity Re:
LTA/Health/Systems -
06/07/2006 The link above has a title but no information. <Mmm,
hasn't been penned yet, correct, Bob? Other articles on
anemones will steer you right since they share similar
requirements/needs. James (Salty Dog)> <<Correct
James... there are many such articles/topics to be written... Not just
by me! You may likely have more accurate, complete information re
actinarians use in captivity than moi... RMF>>
On Anemones and Filter Intakes 02-05-06 Dear Bob (or
whoever it may be) <Mike G> Today we purchased a LTA from our LFS
and put him in our 55g tank. Once acclimated he floated
around for a while and then settled on the substrate under our Fluval
304 and was content there for a while. <After
acclimating, one should always place the anemone on a surface where it
would do best - allowing it to float around can sting neighboring
corals or trap the anemone somewhere it will not do well in.> Later
we found him inverted on the intake pipe. <Certainly not
the anemone's choice - was sucked into the intake tube, as is
decently common with anemones.> We tried to manually remove him but
he resisted. <Was wedged into the intake.> We turned
off the filter and he did not release- he seems like he wants to be
there. <Not wants to - trapped there. Do take steps to
extricate the anemone.> Thanks ~Dan <Best of luck! Mike G>
LTA behavior, health, systems 2/2/06 Hi guys!
wonderful site, great advice! Like many before me and
very unfortunately many after me in July 2005 I made an impulse
purchase, I purchased a long tentacle anemone. Everything was fine till
about a month ago. Here are parts "article" I wrote for my
website (to read it all www.homereefkeeping.com) it will explain my
predicament: <Thank you for this> We bought an anemone in July of
2005. We got our Long Tentacle Anemone (LTA with a bright red stock)
along with 2 True Percula Clownfish. The first mistake we made was not
researching anemones and finding out how to care for them prior to
making our purchase. Our second mistake was buying it on impulse.
<Very common> It lived in it's cave for a while it would
expand and half went from a pale cream color to a 'dusky pink',
the other half being sheltered from the bright metal halides stayed the
pale cream color. In mid October it moved from the cave to an opening
in the rock on the left hand side of the tank. It would expand to the
size of a typical dinner plate. We would feed it medium/large sized
(about 1/3 of a shrimp) pieces of raw, thawed shrimp every 5 days or
so.. It would take the food readily, fold back on itself, and would
ingest the food given. The entire anemone turned a healthy 'dusky
pink' <Yes... thank goodness energy/food provided by you through
feeding... inadequate light response> Today's date is January
28, 2006 and since December (unfortunately I did not keep records, or
dates) the anemone had been acting 'strange' for the last
month. It would no longer expand fully, it had become difficult to
feed, would retract on itself. It hasn't completely lost it's
color. <Yes, bleaching...> Approximately 5 days ago the anemone
'fell' through the rocks, for about a day it hid under the
rockwork; 3 days ago it moved to the back of the tank where it has been
laying on its side. I thought it had died and tried to move it only to
find out that it has attached itself solidly onto one of the rocks. For
the last 2 days I've been feeding the anemone shrimp (that I put
through the blender) and Mysis with a turkey baster. Here's where
opinion vary; where I had read to feed the anemone large meaty chunks,
on another site it said to feed it small shredded pieces of
'meat'. After a bit of consideration and seeing what we'd
been through with our anemone I am most certainly starting to think
that the shredded option makes a lot of sense. If you feed pieces of
food that are too large the anemone cannot digest them and slowly
expels the food. Thus making the anemone slowly starve, and all the
while you think you've been feeding it. <Mmm, as long as the
food is taken, ingested...> Well we are now Jan 31st, the anemone
has gone back under rocks where I can't get to it's mouth, it
inflated it's stock huge today and seemed the have some kind of
line down the middle, now (4hrs later) it's slowly deflated itself.
yesterday I saw its oral cavity and it was huge, much bigger than
I'd ever seen it, today I can't see it so I don't know.
Because it's under rocks I can't tell for the life of me if
it's splitting, dying or just taking me for a ride on a nasty
roller coaster (worried it's dying, then it looks "ok"
then it disappears) Has anyone ever seen an anemone split? <Oh
yes> How does it act before splitting? <Sometimes "out of
the ordinary"... often not> what else could be wrong with it?
<... a lack of light, circulation, metabolite poisoning, a dearth of
biomineral, alkalinity...> I have a 65 gallon tank, 80lbs of Live
sand, 120lbs of LR, a galaxy coral, a frogspawn coral, <... Oh, and
allelopathy... chemical competition. These animals are problematic in
the same water> 2 true Percs, a lawnmower blenny, 2 cleaner shrimp,
scarlet crabs, blue legged crabs and an assortment of snails. The
shrimp molt almost every 2 weeks. My water parameters are as follows :
ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0 nitrate:0 phosphates:0-0.5 (gha prob...) ph: 8.0
to 8.3 depending on the time of day, temp: 79F salinity: 1.025 other
than a drop in phosphates the water has been stable since it cycled in
May 2005 I have a protein skimmer, 3 powerheads, a PhosBan/ROWAphos
fluidizer (long cylindrical thing for active carbon and phosphate
remover) up until 3 days ago had a Eheim canister filter (stopped it to
see if it was the cause of high phosphates and my phosphates have
dropped from 0.5 to 0) Thank you for all your help Catherine <Needs
to be in a different system (w/o the Oculinid, Euphylliid) and more
light... at least. Bob Fenner>
Keeping Anemones-Up For The Challenge? 2/2/06 Hi
crew! <Hi there! Scott F. at your service today!> I would like to
thank you for your advice because it really help me a lot. <Glad we
can help!> I have a FOWLR tank and now I would like to add some
Invertebrates , like snail, crabs, shrimps, etc. as well one LTA, I
always put my fishes to QT before I put them on my display tank to
prevent diseases. <Music to my ears!> I'd like to know if I
have to Quarantine what I'm going to Get, and if I do, for how
long? And what do I need to look to know if there is a disease.
<Okay. Here a re links to a couple of articles I wrote on the topic
a couple of years back, which should give you a good general idea of
the process: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quarinverts.htm > Can I keep a
LTA and 1 Purple Tube Anemone* *on a 55g with Coralife 48" Lunar
Aqualight 4x65 260 Watts, a wet dry 75pro and about 50 pounds of live
rock and 1 Ocellaris Clownfish, 1 Bluefin Damsel, 1 Yellow Watchman
Goby, 1 large Engineer Goby and 1 Green Brittle Star. I appreciate your
response an advance. Thank you Sincerely K4Z3KY <Well, K- I'm a
bit hesitant to recommend the LTA for a system illuminated by anything
less than metal halides, as these lights will generally assure that
you're providing the proper intensity and spectrum (if you choose
the light bulb), removing at least one of the major hurdles in anemone
husbandry (lighting). Also, I would not keep multiple anemones in this
sized aquarium, as they may engage in a form of "chemical
warfare" that could stress and/or kill both specimens. You'll
still have the challenge of maintaining high water quality, providing
good food, and enough space for the animals. My candid advice would be
to try some less expensive, more abundant, and typically easier-to-keep
Condylactis anemones. Though not as "sexy" as the LTA or Tube
Anemones, these Caribbean anemones are colorful and interesting, and
have the added bonus of living a very long time in aquaria. You still
will have to provide excellent environmental conditions, but if
you're up to the challenge, they are great to work with. Good luck!
Regards, Scott F.>
Anemone acting strangely... LTA in a ten gallon...
1/31/06 Hi there, Fist of all, I should say
that I've read over a lot of the already answered postings, and I
can't find something that sounds just like the issue I'm having
with my LTA. I'm sorry if you already have answered
this, though, and maybe I'm just using the wrong search
keywords. <Possibly... but may not be there. WWM will
never be "done"> Anyways, about my anemone. I
purchased a gorgeous LTA from the LFS a little less than a week
ago. The man at the store told me to make sure I have strong
circulation around the anemone, feed it silversides, and make sure to
change my 96-watt bulbs if they are over a year old. I did
change my bulbs (they were about two years old) and made sure all
circulation was strong (I even added a powerhead and bubble
wall). I slowly acclimated the anemone through about a one
and a half hour acclimation of adding small amounts of my water to the
bag water. <Were the new/old water qualities about the same?>
The anemone moved around the tank for several days <A
bad sign> until it finally settled in two days ago between some live
rock. It inflated quite nicely and my clownfish seemed to
show signs of accepting it (he was nudging it and laying on
it). I then fed it a light feeding of brine shrimp just to
see if it would eat--it accepted it willingly. Then,
yesterday morning, the anemone had moved again and looked absolutely
horrible. It was laying on it's side, the tentacles were
shriveled and limp looking, and there were large globs of slime and
large, black, curled looking balls coming out of the anemone's
mouth. <Very bad sign> I called the fish store and
they said it was most liking ridding itself of waste. Today
it has moved again and still looks the same (more black balls have
appeared and it's difficult to discern the
tentacles). My question is, is it ridding itself of waste or
is it dying? <A bit of both> I have a ten gallon
aquarium (yes, I know 10-gallons are dangerous, <... not able to
sustain this animal> but I have very stable conditions with 8.2 pH,
0 ammonia, nitrite, and 0-10 nitrates), 96-watt 50/50 PC lamp, strong
filtration with a Skilter, powerhead, and bubble wall, and about 20-30
lbs of live rock. The temperature stays steady at about
82º. The tank is about 2.5 years old and has had
a clownfish and coral banded shrimp living in it happily the entire
time. Should I get the anemone out, or will it revive
itself? <Too likely it is dying, will take the rest of
your livestock with it... This animal may well have not been
well-adjusted from wild-collection, had troubles no matter what was
done with it, but placing it in such a small volume... very small
chance of success. Bob Fenner> Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks, ~Jonathon
New Long tentacle anemone 11/23/05 Great
site!, but need further clarification on this please. I have a 20
gallon tank with 110w from a power compact. I just bought a LTA
yesterday, acclimated it, placed it in the tank and it isn't
attaching to anything, it was attached to the tank in the pet store, I
checked it's foot while in the bag and didn't see any tears,
should I bury the base of the foot in the sand/fine crushed coral?
<Worth trying> I want to do what is best for this little guy, 2
percula clownfish as tank mates are not bothering it from what I have
seen, since I had watched it for hours last night. I just didn't
know if I should dig a small hole in the sand and place its foot on the
glass bottom, or just enough to where the foot is anchored down so it
won't get blown around by my power head, which I have moved to
create less current where the anemone is but enough where the tentacles
move with the current. This morning it is still looking deflated, maybe
a little bit bigger not much though, has since I got it home. I assume
the base of it's foot is still sticky because it has sand covering
the bottom. I have read that they prefer to be in the sand bed
and not on rocks. I had a Condy that was very sticky and attached
it's self to the live rock the minute I put it in the tank, <Its
chemical "presence" in the tank may be at play here> I
know all species are different. I had the Condy for about 5 months then
I had to move myself and it didn't make it during the move. I have
as of last night placed it in the sand just enough around the sides of
it to hold it in place, this morning it is still in the same spot. Just
need to know if I'm doing what needs to be done or if I'm just
freaking out over nothing and should let the anemone do it's thing,
and hope it attaches eventually and finds a place that it likes.
<Hopefully. Bob Fenner>
-Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor-
Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor have interested me for
a long time.. I have finally decided to give it a try.. the tank has
cycled.. its a 60 gallon tank.. the dimensions are (LxWxH)
48"x15"x14.5".. lighting is what came with the system
about 120 watts.. 2 4' Coralife 40w 50/50 and 1 4' 40w marine
Glo.. I also have 30 lbs of live rock in the tank.. my question is what
is this amount of light enough to keep these particular anemone's??
<I would suggest at least 4x55w PC's as a minimum for either,
and of the two E. quad. is a much hardier specimen (they can also
easily be acquired tank raised.>and if not, r there any other
anemone's that would work in this amount of light??? <Not any
pacific anemone I can think of> and if not.. r there any corals that
I could keep with this amount of light?? <'Shrooms and polyps
may do alright, but I'd strongly suggest upgrading to my earlier
suggestion. Good luck! -Kevin> thank u very much for answering..
Jiwan
LTA's are NOT for Gifting! >Hey guys. your site is
awesome.. thank you so much for running such an informative source!
>>Welcome, and thanks (from one of the gals). >I am VERY new
to the saltwater hobby and want to get some quick answers from you in
English. >>Good thing, that's my native
tongue. I'd have to call Mom if you needed 'em in
Spanish. >I'm sure the answers are already posted on here, but I
don't understand all the acronyms, etc. >>Indeed, they are.
>I have a 75 gallon acrylic tank with 2 hoods on top. Each hood has
one light bulb in it. It WAS a fish only tank.. With
substrate, 6 or 7 pieces of dead coral, and fish.. We bought it
used. 2 percula clown fish, 1 lemon damsel, 1 blue jaw
trigger, and 1 hermit crab. My wife just bought me a Long
Tentacle Anemone for my birthday. The guy at the local fish
store told her they are very easy to keep and that they do not really
need any special lighting. >>He is incorrect. It is
pretty big with a large orange base.. It's
beautiful. I have been enamored with them forever, but
always thought they were hard to keep. She surprised me, and as soon as
she presented me with it, I called the fish store, and the guy told me
the same thing he had told her.. Easy to keep.. No special lighting..
Clowns will love it.. Drip water to acclimate.. Etc..etc.. >>Good
lord. I am biting my fingers (read: tongue). Any
other than pest anemones tend to be among the most difficult of
invertebrates to keep, long tentacles are no different. They
need BEST water quality, very good lighting. I shall link
you, please make very good use of the links/info held within. >I
dripped water from my tank into its bag for about 2 hours (to get him
acclimated to the new water), and then dropped him into my tank
TONIGHT. >>Alright. Good method. >She looks great
in there. Hopefully will find a spot and attach soon. >>May not
with such insufficient lighting, read on. >I then jumped on the web
to learn all I can about these guys. I really hope my clowns take to
her, but first things first, I really hope I can keep her happy and
flourishing. >>Please, for next time, first things first means
learning about the animal BEFORE making the purchase. But
you wouldn't believe how many people buy others animals for their
systems and often don't know the first thing. Recently
read some posts by someone whose roommate added a fish to his reef
while he was gone, it was a DISASTER. Research first. >My
tank looks good after doing a bunch of water tests, but my salinity may
be too low??? (at about 1.017 right now)... also, I am
worried about my lighting. >>That is DEFINITELY too
low. Should be at 1.025-1.026. Either do water
changes with water of higher salinity (around 1.030) till you get it to
this level, or remove tank water, add salt to this s.g. and slowly
raise it up. Don't do more quickly than over a couple to
a few days, though. We don't want to shock any
residents. >I am attaching 3 pictures; one of the sticker within my
hood(s) showing specs for lighting it will accept... second, a picture
of the writing on one of the bulbs housed in my hood(s).. And third, a
picture of the anemone. >>First two came up fine, server
wouldn't give me the anemone, but no worries. Your
lighting is WOEFULLY inadequate. You will have to use either
compact fluorescents or metal halides, and this issue must be addressed
within the next few weeks. The anemone will have to be
acclimated slowly to the new lighting or risk burn. We have
articles and FAQ's (frequently asked questions) regarding exactly
this, and this anemone. >lease let me know what I need to do to keep
her alive and well.. I hope I don't have to spend a
fortune on new hoods, bulbs, etc, but give it to me straight.
>>This lady is nothing BUT a straight shooter, if you can't
part with the money, you'll part with the anemone one way or the
other. Do know that these animals have been shown to have
lifespans so long that, like koi, they could be willed to your kin upon
your death. That means that "Oh, I had an anemone for
over two years!" means NOTHING. >ALSO, assuming I needed to
raise the salinity or upgrade my lighting.. How quickly do I need to do
it??? Is she in danger of a quick death??? >>Salinity:
start now. Lighting, within the next month, two at the
OUTSIDE. >And finally.. Should I move her towards the side of the
tank (not really much to latch on to where she
fell)??? And how many hours a day do I want to leave
my tank lights on??? >>Try not to handle the anemone, it'll
move where it wants anyway. Only if its life is in peril
(the powerhead suck, for instance). Photoperiod should mimic
tropical environs -- 12-14 hours/day. >I hope that is all..
>>We can only hope. :p >Thanks so
much! Todd Patrie >>Very welcome, now get ready for
the linkage, Todd. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm Within
this link, look through Setup (to address any filtration issues, since
they're not mentioned), "Non-vertebrate Life 1", and
"Maintenance/Operation". The information contained
therein is FAR more than what I can adequately address
here. Marina
LTA's Are Not For Gifting, part II >Thank you
Marina... >>You're welcome, Todd. >Would any of these
listed bulbs be strong enough for the long tentacle anemone?
>>Truthfully, not sure, I'm sending out this message to a few
others as well for their input. I would strongly suggest you
bring this up on our forums http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk
>I have a feeling I'll be printing out your email and bringing
it, along with the anemone back to the fish store... This is the type
of tank I have - it's A "self enclosed system" by
SeaClear... so I don't know if I can get custom lighting for it..
the bulbs listed are what they offer for my hoods.
>>Unfortunately, I've never worked with this system, again,
the boards could net you far more results. Including
possible ideas for retrofitting, it does sound as though you really
love this anemone. >Thanks! Todd >>You're
welcome! Marina >Accessories For: Brand: SeaClear Type:
System II Aquarium SKU: 93076 Description: SeaClear System II 75
Regular Black, Blue, or Cobalt Blue Back More Info Brand Style SKU
Dimension Description Price Accessories
SeaClear 20200 System II Explore Protein Skimmer
$44.99 Accessory Coralife 70320 ColorMax 18 Bulb 15w $9.99
Accessory Coralife 15 watt 70037 Coralife Actinic Blue 360
18 15w $19.99 Accessory >Coralife 15 watt 72436 Coralife
10,000K 360 18 15w $24.99 Accessory< >>This kind of
information (the "10,000K" bit) is what you're looking
for with bulbs. You want to mimic the sun in terms of color
temperature and intensity. >Coralife 15 watt
72196 Coralife Trichromatic 360 18 15w $19.99 Accessory
>Coralife 15 watt AF863 Coralife 50/50 360 18 15 w $19.99
Accessory< >>This is another popular bulb, but in my opinion
two of this, and two of the #72436 would be more in order. >>Jas,
Bob, I'm leaving the body of the previous in here because I'm
sending this email out to other crewmembers for
opinions. Thanks! Marina P.S. Don't forget, I
leave for Reno tomorrow morning. Won't return till
Sunday evening, late>>
Long Tentacle Anemone - Lighting Follow-up >I spoke to
someone at HelloLights, and they recommended that I scrap my hoods and
purchase a Coralife Aqualight 4x65 watt hood. >>I
agree. This outfit has an EXCELLENT reputation with those
who make their purchases online, too. >It comes with (2) Coralife
Actinic lights and (2) Coralife 10000 lights... What do you
think of this configuration? Is this enough light to keep a
long tentacled Anenome? >>I think it's a good start, however,
do watch it closely, and remember to feed the animal directly.
>Also, if you could recommend some other anenomes/corals that I
might be able to keep with this configuration.. >>My goodness,
you can certainly keep a huge variety of soft corals, Sarcophytons,
corallimorphs (mushrooms), and the like. I think you may
also be able to keep large polyp stony corals (LPS), but you'll
need to also address calcium/available biomineral issues if you go that
route. I wouldn't add another anemone for quite a
while--see how things go with this one, as the issues aren't only
about lighting but also about water quality. >BTW - what are you
doing in Reno? Just curious? I grew up out
there.. >>Went to visit the boyfriend who lives in the Lake Tahoe
(South Lake, to be specific) area. Reno, as you know, is the
nearest major (if you can call it that) city. >live in AZ now
though... >>Ah.. a "zonie", now, eh? ;)
>Thanks! Todd >>Very welcome,
Todd. Let's hope all goes well with your gift
anemone. Marina
Throwing Some Light On Anemone Husbandry Hello, <Hi there!
Scott F. with you today!> I have a couple of questions about
anemones. The first one is on a long tentacled anemone It was a
beautiful green color when we bought it. After being in the tank a
short while, it has turned a brownish color and the base has lightened
in color as well. The Tank that it is in is a 75 gallon, it has a
wet/dry, protein skimmer. The lights on the tank are power compacts. I
have two 50/50 smart bulbs. The water is in line with the parameters of
a healthy tank. <Well, the change of coloration is most likely a
reaction to lighting conditions, similar to the changes that many
wild-collected SPS corals tend to undergo when introduced to new tanks
with light levels far below what they are used to. Really, for optimum
growth, you need a lot of light intensity. I'm a big fan of power
compacts, but under most circumstances, I don't think that they
provide the intensity required for anemones. Perhaps if you add more of
them, this may make a difference. Usually, we recommend metal halide as
the light of choice for optimum coloration and health of
anemones...> The other question is on a small Haiti (not sure of
spelling) <Not sure what this is- sorry...> It was eaten by the
anemone talked about above, and ever since then has never been able to
attach itself to anything. Other the fact of that it looks healthy good
color and shape. Thank you for your help, Tom <Well, Tom- keep
providing good water conditions, feed the anemone regularly, and
entertain the idea of increasing light intensity. Good luck! Regards,
Scott F>
LT Anemone Hi there! <Hi there, Nicholas!> Hope you can
help us, we find your site SO helpful! <Thank you!> We recently
(last Thurs.) purchased a Long-Tentacle Anemone that is a few inches in
diameter at her base. She is a salmon-red color at her base
with pinkish tentacles & is rather large when
"open." When we put her in the salt tank, she
seemed to be fine & buried herself in the sand the next day. Just
yesterday we unburied her & placed her on a rock & she
attached. <...bad idea. I should point out that many
Long Tentacle Anemones are naturally found with their foot buried in
the substrate. Removing it can be extremely stressful for the
anemone.> Last night, we noticed a ball of mucous like slime (looks
like its loaded with tiny brown tentacles) coming out of her side. She
hasn't let go of it yet but will make it smaller at
times. This morning, she was more on her side & we
noticed that on the bottom of her base, she had 2 more of these masses,
one is actually fairly large & had brown algae between the mass
& the rock. Is this waste? Or is she slowly dying? <I can't
accurately tell you what it is without seeing a picture of the anemone.
However, from the way you described it, I can say that most likely this
"mass" is from either from Massive amounts of stress, Lack of
food (lack of nutrients), poor water conditions, or that the anemones
base was torn somehow. I have a feeling that the combination of
removing the anemone from the sandbed and possibly tearing its base was
the cause of this. As stated above, a picture would greatly help.>
Her mouth was also open wide this morning. Is she starving? We were
told to feed her brine shrimp, along with liquid supplements & are
now reading differently. <A gaping mouth is not a good
sign -- possibly another stress factor (or lack of nutrients) is
contributing to this. The Long tentacle anemone does best with meaty
foods such as krill, squid, shrimp, diced fish, silversides or
lancefish. I would first try the "trail-and-error" method to
feeding your anemone: First try feeding one type of food at a time. If
the food triggers the nematocysts (stingers located at the tip of each
tentacle), the anemone will hang on to the food and pull it to its
mouth. If the food does not trigger these nematocysts, the food will
eventually float off the anemones tentacles with passing current. Take
note of which foods the anemone does/does not accept. Feed only the
foods which the anemones consumes. If you find that the anemone has
"thrown up" its food within 24 hours, try feeding the food in
smaller quantities.> We're so unsure! I can send photos if
needed. <Yes, please send pictures of the anemones base. That would
help out a lot.> Thanks so much for your help! <Take Care,
Graham.> The Gilmores.
Long Tentacle Anemone Hello <Hi Dave, MacL here> I just
put a long tentacle anemone and a gold banded maroon clown that loves
his partner. <Sounds nice> A couple of questions... First the
anemone attached to my live rock but sideways ( horizontally).
<That's normal, he's found a water current he's
enjoying> Second should I feed him separately with chunks of
brine? <He does need to be fed, not necessarily with
brine but the clown will also feed him. I would ask you about lighting
and tank size but I see you've sent another letter and will address
it more there> Thanks for your time Dave
Re: Long Tentacle Anemone <hi again Dave> sorry I also
was wondering--- I have a 29 gal. tank with fluor 20 watt.<I have to
be honest with you and tell you that I don't think that's
sufficient lighting for a long tentacled anemone.> My
long tentacle anemone is at the upper half of tank. <Reaching for
the light> Is that ok for lighting? <Let me point you at
www//http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm,
for a couple of great articles and some material about the long
tentacled anemone.>
Long tentacled anemone Hi, sorry to bother you again, <Hi
Heather, MacL with you today, and never a bother. Personally
I'd much rather you ask questions. Please accept my apologies for
the delay but I've been at MACNA so a bit behind.> but you have
been so much help in the past. I just brought a long tentacle anemone
from my LFS. It looked great when I brought it, there was even a tomato
with him in the tank all snuggled up:) I've had it for about a week
and it started to close up and deflate some of it's tentacles. Is
this normal? <Sounds like its digesting, But let's ask a few
basic questions. Is it under actinic lighting spectrum meaning actinics
or metal halides? If it isn't it won't flourish I'm
afraid.> It hasn't moved all that much and my 2 false
percula's took to it within hours which I've read is a good
sign. Also what should I feed it. The LFS said to feed it pieces of
shrimp, but it doesn't seem to want to eat it even though I stick
it in the tentacle. <It will just want a piece of shrimp ever couple
of days or so. It can also grab little pieces of brine shrimp or
Mysis.> It holds on to it for a while and then my shrimp
come and take it away. What should I do. I don't want it to die,
it's my first one. Any help would be really appreciated. <Sounds
like you need to find a way to keep the shrimp away while its eating,
perhaps with a net? Good luck, MacL>
Re: One last LTA
question Hi Bob, <Howdy> Things are going smooth with the new
LTA. I have a link to a pic I posted on the net for you if
your interested. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/download.php?id=13055 Its been
pretty exciting around the house. I had a 30G oceanic cube
at my office that is 3 months cycled but has no life in
it. I found it's too hard to take care of at work so I
just moved it home and tied it into my 105G oceanic. I can
tell that all my livestock is really digging the 25% boost in volume.
<Good> I am not sure if your familiar with Bob from
EBay, he sells a live detritivore kit for new tanks. Anyhow
it's a huge deal, I have bought two from him and the 30G was seeded
with one so now its like I have two fuges on the
system. Hope things are well with you, take care!
Oh, in case your curious here is a pic of my system with
the 30G tied in (please excuse the mess and the cords everywhere, I
haven't cleaned things up since the move). http://www.aquariumadvice.com/download.php?id=13172 Take care
Bob! <Thank you for sharing. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
LTA & Lighting Hi Crew, I have a lighting question
regarding a LTA that I transferred from QT 5 days ago. I have a 29
gallon tank with the following: 25lb of live rock w/ 3" DSB
AquaC Remora hang-on protein skimmer, powered by Maxi-jet 1200
additional Maxi-jet 1200 for water circulation Aquarium Systems
Millennium 3000 filter for activated-carbon filtration Clark clownfish
(paired with the LTA within twelve hours of introducing the anemone to
the tank) Lawnmower blenny Royal Gramma Tank-bred Percula clownfish 3
peppermint shrimp Coral banded shrimp A dozen assorted snails and reef
hermit crabs Sand-sifting star-fish (a mutant actually - it has six
appendages!) Currently I have 130W of Coralife PC lighting (2 x 65W
dual bulb 10,000K/actinic blue, situated 2.5" above water surface)
and the LTA is situated approximately 8.5" below the water
surface. My question then is this: Should I replace one (or both) of
the PC bulbs with pure 10,000K bulbs instead of the 10,000K/actinic
combination? Will that help improve light quality for the LTA? Also, I
have both bulbs on separate timers... 1 bulb from 9am-midnight, and the
other from noon-7pm. Is this an optimal photo-period? <Chris,
I have a Sebae Anemone in my 29 mini reef, and it seems to be doing
fine with 2 65w PC's, one is dual daylight (10K and 6.7K) and one
dual actinic (460nm/420nm). When it is time to change tubes I plan on
going with two 10K's. I would leave both lights on for 10/12 hours
for the LTA. James (Salty Dog)> Many thanks for running an excellent
site! <You're welcome>
Long Tentacle Anemone/Not Attaching Hello WWM Crew,
<Yo!> I love your website. I have and continue to learn more and
more about my marine ecosystem. Thank you! I have a 120g set up with 2
perc clowns, 2 fire fish, royal Gramma, and three anemones. My Long
tentacle anemone I have had for about 3 months and he has never
attached himself. <Not a good indication... very likely resultant
from an injury to the "foot" during extraction/collection;
should settle with its base in the sand> Occasionally he will float
with the current get wedged somewhere, then in about 2 weeks do it
again. He eats great (I feed them all shrimp 2-3 times a week) and
appear to be good in color and activity. Should I attempt to get it to
stay put in one spot. My fear is that we will bang heads (tentacles)
with my bulb or magnif anemone....What should I do? <Mmm, I would
try to settle the animal in a spot it is likely to nestle into...
rather than risk it being blown about, perhaps on to another organism,
or against a pump intake. Bob Fenner><<Bob! Did you notice the
mention of the other Anemone species here? Sheesh. RMF>>
Question about LTA success in Natural Reef System w/Skimming
Hi there, this is my first e-mail to WWM, but I read all the time and
love the site. I have one of those questions that feels like the answer
is an obvious yes, but my confidence is really low right now. My tank
is about 18 months new and I just spent the last 6 fighting off a
morale destroying hair algae bloom that resulted in a lot of
damage. So here is the setup. 105G tall tank with a 30"
stretch to the 4" sand bed. I am using 2X400W 20K MH bulbs with
2X96W 420nm PCs to give me a little dawn dusk action. My
reef's chemistry is back to where it was before the bloom, 1.026
SG, no nitrate, phosphate, etc. I keep the temp stable at 78 degrees as
well. The reef has about 200lbs of live rock and there is a 30G fuge
tied in. I am pretty much a "natural reef" system with
skimmer. Anyhow I really want to get an LTA and some clowns for this
tank, but before I do I was just curious what you guys thought about
this setup and its chances to thrive under these conditions. Thanks for
the help, Jeff <Your system sounds fine to ideal... the most
difficult step you are now faced with is securing an initially healthy
specimen. Bob Fenner>
Lighting An LTA - 06/08/05 I recently (about 3 weeks ago)
purchased a Long Tentacle Anemone. My tank is only 18 inches deep and
the anemone is 4-5 inches off the bottom of the tank. I hear
that these anemones take SO MUCH light. <<For long-term care/good
health, yes.>> Well I feed mine twice a week with Selcon soaked
raw shrimp chunks, and he's doing awesome. <<Good to hear,
though the anemone will appreciate/feed better on fine minced pieces
rather than "chunks.">> I got him in the tank and stuck
it into a hole I thought suitable and within the next day it was
anchored and fully expanded to twice his LFS size. I also
noticed that he was a fluorescent green color under my lights, and
under LFS lights it was dull brown. My question is should I
move it up higher or leave it where it is comfortable? It is
under one 65-daylight PC and one 55-actinic PC. <<Do consider the
reason the anemone is making itself bigger is because it is trying to
"get what it can't" from an inadequate light
source. Not saying this is definitely the case, but I would
recommend switching out the actinic bulb for another daylight bulb, or
better yet ADD another daylight bulb. And I would not try to
move the anemone...too easy to cause damage. As a motile
invertebrate it will find its own place.>> Also would this
anemone co-exist with frogspawn coral (without of reach of the
frogspawns runners of course)? or would a chemical battle be under way?
<<Chemical aggression is always an issue...as is physical contact
when/if the anemone decides to relocate. Anemones are best
kept/cared for in species specific tanks. And unless the
tank is very large (hundreds of gallons, and even then not always so),
only one to a tank please. Consider having a look here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltafaqs.htm and at the
associated links in blue.>> <<Regards, Eric R.>>
Anemone question! 7/24/05 Greetings -- seems like
there's a ton of people asking questions about
anemones. I'm now one of them! <People usually house
them inappropriately (i.e.. keeping them in reef tanks) so they tend to
have a lot of problems with them> I picked up a long tentacle from
the local fish store about two weeks ago. He's huge, and
has looked great in the tank. I fed him a small bit of krill
-- under 1/4", from what I've read on the site. I
feed him generally every four days. <Sounds good>
Anyway, when I went to work this morning I noticed he
looked a little smaller, but not a big deal. When I got
home, he looked completely dead; no water in tentacles at all,
wasn't gripping the rock anymore (had fallen over on its side),
etc. Huge red base was just sitting out in the
open. The mouth wasn't open though. I checked
water parameters and things looked fine (temperature holds steady at
80-82 degrees in the tank all day. The LFS was closed at
this point so I figured I'd have to wait until
tomorrow. I went out to the store and came back and noticed
its mouth was now open basically all the way, and that it looks like it
spit something out... a brownish substance. I've propped
him up between a bunch of rocks, and dug a hole in the sand for him so
that he'll stand up... but I don't know what else to
do. It keeps trying to stand up; some of the tentacles will
inflate, and it'll rise up several inches from the base, then fall
back down again. If I prop it back up between rocks, it
repeats the cycle and just gets taller and taller until it flops over
again. <Sounds like it's on the verge of death, sorry to say>
I have no other anemones, and the tank has been running for about a
year and a half. None of the fish are picking at it that
I've seen. I have a leather coral on the other side of
the tank that appears to still be doing well. The tank is a
36g bowfront. I don't have a protein
skimmer. Lighting is 130W PC (one true actinic). <You
have nowhere near enough lighting. Next time, ask questions
first, purchase second> Any clues? I know it's hard
to explain without pictures and without being here to see it, but I
just find it weird that it would have died that quickly. <I
don't. Improper collection, improper acclimation,
stress, low energy reserves, combined with poor lighting>
I just checked my water parameters again; the water
doesn't smell but my alkalinity and nitrates are way above normal
(pH 7.8, alkalinity 260, nitrites < 0.5 ppm, nitrates 100 ppm).
<Well that explains the death right there. Horrible water
quality - your pH should be ~8.2+ at night, nitrites should be 0,
nitrates should be less than 5ppm measured as nitrate ion>
I'm going to do a water change tomorrow and see if that
cures those problems (can't do it tonight, no supplies, it's
midnight). <Please do, and please read further about the husbandry
of marine aquariums. Look into your filtration/water
circulation> Thanks <No problem. With proper
conditions, anemones can outlive their owners, but those conditions do
need to be met. A few weeks of diligent reading should ready
you, and give you time to get your tank in order> - Will <M.
Maddox> R
e: LTA help- Anemone Systems, Improper Confines
9/23/05 Thanks for the help, Adam <Anytime.> Just an
update, I added another more powerful powerhead, and the lights have
arrived. <Awesome.> I now have 280w total (220w of it is VHO and
a mix of Whites and blues) >5w per gallon and my water flow look
fairly strong now. Should this meet the requirements with
the LTA in the 55 gal? <For now, its definitely an improvement, more
intense lighting would make it easier on you, just be sure to target
feed as I mentioned earlier and watch for signs of bleaching.>
I will say that both still have excellent color and are
full and open now, but only one is hiding its foot, the other has yet
to attach or hide. <It may still be trying to find a
'comfort' zone.> Thanks again, Bryan Next step 150 Gallons
<Oh yes the bigger the better, Adam J.>
Lighting
Anemones 9/23/05 Hey guys, Bryan here again. <Hey
Bryan-Scott F. with you!> I have read and read and read and keep
finding different levels required for lighting 55 gal with 2 LTA's
(beautiful, I might add, and the Clarkii has claimed them
both) I have been told that I don't have
enough. I have 2 - 110w VHO Actinic lights, one is blue and
the other is white. That puts me a 4w per gallon; I do have
the equipment to add an additional 60w of light (30w Blue and 30w full
spec). That would put me just over 5w/gal. Should I add
these lights, and is that sufficient enough? <I've always tried
to avoid "watts per gallon" measurements, but it sounds like
you're on the right track here. My thoughts on lighting anemones
are short and sweet- As much lighting as you can offer! Obviously, the
other aspects of husbandry, such as water quality, etc. are important,
too.> Also, one last question, should I worry about a little string
matter than comes from the foot of the anemones. <I would not be
overly concerned, unless there are large quantities of this stuff and
the animal appears otherwise declining. This is probably just some
mucus from the attachment point of the anemone and is nothing to be
overly concerned with.> Thanks, Bryan <My pleasure! Regards,
Scott F.>
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