LTA Question/Acclimation 3/16/09
I have read and searched your site, and found other folks with the same issue. I however would like to know how long should one wait until being concerned that a newly introduced LTA doesn't attach to the substrate (sand)?
<A healthy specimen will usually attach in a few days at most.>
The LTA was introduced yesterday, and I have tried three separate times to set him upright, but he eventually tips back over. I have a 300 gallon tank with three Tangs, one Bird Wrasse, one false Percula, and one Zebra Moray eel. No corals, lots of healthy live rock, and very fine sand bed (approx. 5-6" deep).
I bought the LTA from a local fish store where he was attached to a nearly bare bottom tank with very small dusting of sand. Foot looks good, with no visible tears, and tentacles look good as well, with the exception that they are not nearly as inflated as in the fish store. I guess I am looking for confirmation that at this point, just leave alone and monitor, and how long could this go on with the LTA still being healthy? Also should I try to feed? The mouth is slightly open, but not a lot.
<The anemone likely won't feed until attached and in full bloom.>
Lighting consists of (4) 250 MH lights, bulbs less than four months old.
Every other week water changes, no detectable nitrites / ammonia, less than 10 nitrates, 8.2 PH, 79-82 F.
<The problem with anemones is that they are poor shippers where changes in pH, temperature, light, etc., will have a negative impact on them. Most importers, wholesalers, and dealers generally do not provide ideal lighting for them during their short stay and this can lead to a gradual loss of Zooanthellae in the anemone. Your lighting system is ideal for the LTA but light acclimation should be carried out. The fine sand bed is good and you may want to create a hole in the sand down to the glass, then cover an inch or so of the pedal disc with sand. If your flow rate is a little strong, you might reduce this somewhat until the anemone attaches. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's on this anemone.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
And here on light acclimation.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm>
Your input is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for all you do, you all are a great resource, and I applaud all of the work you have recently done on your site.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Regards,
Steven

Re LTA Question/Acclimation 3/16/09
Sorry, I forgot to ask one more question. Although in reading the articles indicating that the LTA attaches to substrates, would it be worth a try to set the foot into rocks to see if it will attach? I have many openings
that seem to be a perfect size for the foot, and it appears would give support to keep upright.
<I'd try the sand method I suggested in the previous email first. Do have some patience here as these are not the easiest animals to acclimate.
James (Salty Dog)>

Re LTA Question/Acclimation 3/16/09
Thank you very much for your reply!
<You're welcome.>
I will do as you recommend and dig a hole and see if that works. Only question I have is, that since the sand bed likely is acting as a filter as well, is there any risk of releasing any toxic reaction from disturbing the sand that deep (5-6")?
<Shouldn't, we are not talking that large of a hole.>
I don't want to trigger a secondary issue if avoidable, however I tend to agree that if this LTA is going to attach / thrive I think some amount of manipulation is likely necessary.
<It's a start, try it for a few days and do read the links in the previous email.>
Your comments are greatly appreciated.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Steven

New Long Tentacle Anemone, LTA, Improper Environment – 4/8/08
Hey guys,
<Hello Chris, Brenda here!>
This is the first time I'm writing in, but have been coming back to this site time and again for information. I have to say, at the very least, this is a great site; very informative, both through the articles and from the email questions.
<Great to hear you find it helpful!>
With that said, onto my questions. I have a 20 gallon long with a long tentacle anemone and a yellow stripe clownfish in it.
<A 20 gallon tank is a bit small for an anemone.>
Currently I have a 65 watt power compact which is half 10,000k daylight and half blue actinic plus a T-5 fixture with one 18 watt 10,000k daylight bulb and one 18 watt True Actinic 03 bulb. This lighting setup doesn't seem to be sufficient for the anemone.
<Do the T-5 bulbs have individual reflectors?>
Now I have two choices, first, I could purchase a metal halide lighting system or, I could move one of my power compact from one of my other tanks to the 20 gallon long. The specs for this power compact is 1 x 65 watt 10,000k daylight and 1 x 65 watt blue actinic.
<This is still not sufficient lighting. Actinic does not provide much more than aesthetics. >
If I go with the metal halide, do you think a 150 watt metal halide fixture along with the above mentioned T-5 fixture would be too much for a tank of this size?
<The 150 watt MH would be sufficient, but with only one bulb, it is not going to cover the entire area of the tank.>
The height of the tank is about 12-13". My other question is regarding the long tentacle anemone, I know they usually attach their foot quite deep into sandy substrates. My anemone doesn't seem to be doing that. It attaches itself partially into the substrate and partially onto the live rocks.
<This is not uncommon.>
I have about 4-5" of live sand and I have never seen it bury itself more than 1-2" into the sand and what's more, it seems to like being partially on the live rocks. I only had it for about 2 weeks and it has moved to 3 different locations already, though all three locations are within a couple of inches of one another.
<It is looking for a suitable place, likely more lighting.>
The anemone looks healthy with a tight mouth and long, expanded tentacles.
<Good!>
In fact, the anemone as a whole is usually expanded quite large. One more curious thing I've noticed is that the anemone seems to expand and look more vibrant when the lights goes off and the lunar lights comes on than when the daylight and actinic blue light are on. Are any of the above normal?
<It sounds a bit stressed. Wild collection, shipping, new environment, lighting, and poor water quality, can all cause stress on anemones. Is the anemone eating? If so, what, and how big of portions? What are your water parameters? More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm and the related FAQs at the top. >
Any suggestions and/or conclusions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Chris
<You’re welcome! Hope this helps! Brenda>

LTA Question, sys. mostly   3/9/08
Dear Wet Web,
<Hey, John. Mike I with you here>
Thank you in advance for all the help you have given me and my fellow reefers. You really have saved life's in the aquarium aspect with all the exceptional information you have on here. With that said on with the questions :)
<Thanks for the thanks, from all the team here>
I recently purchased a beautiful LTA anemone from the LFS today. I brought him home and acclimated him and within no time he was already open, tentacles full of water and loving his new home. Mouth is not "gaping" but is open slightly maybe he's hungry?
<Over the first day, a slightly open mouth would not concern me - acclimation (beyond what you have done) takes these animals a little while longer, a day or so>
I tried to attach him to a rock but he just wouldn't have it, I read a little more on here and saw that they would prefer attaching in sand or a muddy substrate so I moved him to the sand bed which is 3-4in of aragonite where he currently sits.
<Stretch that a little to 4 - 5 inches, but I'm being picky! Heee!>
I have all pumps in my system off expect my return so he doesn't blow around in the current and potentially sting something. (is this a good technique for 5-6 hours just so he can find his footing?).
<Yup, providing this does not interfere so much with the oxygen/waste management/respiration of other animals in the tank - However, if the substrate is right, would take less time for a healthy specimen to "dig in">
He is being housed under 39W 10,000K T5 HO fixture that is about 6in off the surface of the water 2 actinic 2 daylights. He is all the way at the bottom of my tank in the sand so I am hoping that once he attaches he will move up the rock in-front of him and find a nice place to thrive?
<As you've discovered, they prefer sand, so unlikely to move up the rock>
Should this fixture suffice? and will he be ok in the sand bed for now? I sure hope so because I cant afford another light. I may be worrying too much and should just let him get used to his new home? I'm not sure what to do. Please Help. Thanks
<John, you don't mention how big your tank is, but likely that lighting is insufficient. Do read this link and the other indices: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm to get a feel for what may be required in your tank. Hope that helps, Mike I>

New LTA, Not Enough Lighting, Too Small of Tank – 8/24/07
Hey WWM crew,
<Hello, Brenda here>
I appreciate this site so very much, the amount of information is almost daunting to sift through but I am grateful to have such a large quantity to use as a resource. Down to business. My boyfriend and I have a twenty gallon tank with 1 clarki, 1 long nose hawk, and 1 rusty angel (although I believe we are about to trade him for a wrasse tomorrow with our local pet store).
<All of the fish that you currently have need a 30 gallon or larger aquariums. What type of wrasse? Some need a much larger home than you currently have.>
The ph is 8.2, the salinity is 1.0026, nitrates are at zero, and phosphates are almost zero. I have two CoraLife PC (2 10,000k daylights and 2 actinic. Each fixture has 28 watts between both bulbs so a total of 56 watts. We have two pulsing xenias both doing super. For a while the clown was even hosting in the larger of the two xenias (awesome to watch). Today we decided to add an anemone.
<You do not have enough lighting to support any of the hosting anemones.>
Our local store sold us a LTA that was brought in by someone else about 6 months to a year ago. I looked healthy in the store, a tight mouth, deep red color red base. We got it home, did a drip until temperature and salinity were the same.
<What about the rest of the water parameters?>
We added it to the tank and it immediately retreated to one of the shaded areas under the live rock. It is still sticky, it stuck to my hand when I placed it on the substrate and some substrate is sticking to the base. I am almost positive that the lighting is not too strong.
<You need T-5 or Metal Halide for this anemone, and a much larger aquarium.>
What would cause this retreating reaction? Stress?
<Yes, changing environments is stressful on an anemone.>
I also believe that some of its zooxanthellae may have been released during this process (slight discoloration to some tentacles and slime strands dangling from tips of some tentacles).
<It is possible.>
The Clarki left the xenia and within 10 minutes began trying to host. I would hope this environment will be suitable and after a few days or weeks the anemone will decide on a spot and settle in. Is there anything I can do to help this process? Are my parameters off?
<I would need to know temperature, alkalinity, ammonia, nitrites, etc. to answer that.>
Or is the lighting too insufficient?
<You definitely need much stronger lighting here. I also recommend a much larger tank, 50 gallons or more. In a 20 gallon tank water quality can go down hill fast. This anemone may also out grow a 20 gallon rather quickly.>
I appreciate the advice, you guys are incredible. Thanks
Sarah
<You’re Welcome! Brenda>

Lighting, Anem. sys...   7/28/07
Hi WWM crew.
<Hello Ted>
First off I must say I love your site even if the amount of information can sometimes be daunting. I have learned a great deal, even if some of it was a little late.
<Better late than never.>
I have a 35 gal. aquarium that has been set up for about three months now and it has been doing fine so far on very inadequate lighting. There is about 20 lbs. of live rock, a few blue/green chromis and a couple of false percula clowns, an assortment of hermits and snails, a blood cleaner shrimp and an anemone (if I knew then what I know now). The anemone is Macrodactyla Doreensis as far as I can tell, and had I been more knowledgeable I would have waited much longer before adding such a sensitive inhabitant even though he is very attractive and interesting. All the chemistry is good as per suggestions from WWM and all inhabitants seem to be doing just fine, eating, moving and interacting just as I would hope and expect.
<Ted, even under the best conditions, anemones usually won't last more than a year. Your tank is much too small for keeping anemones for any length of time.>
Now to the real question I set up the aquarium with 20 watts of fluorescent lighting as I was told this would be sufficient for now.
<Ha, who told you that baloney.>
I have since learned that this probably not correct
<Not probably, is so.>
so I purchased a 2 x 96 W power compact fixture for the aquarium, 1 - 12,000K and 1 - actinic. I am now wondering how to transition from 20 W on a 12 hour schedule to 192 W and on what schedule? Should I simply remove the 20 W and start with the new light on a shorter day and build up?
<Yes.>
Or should I go with 12 hours of light with some of those hours at 20 W and some at 192 W slowly moving toward all 192 W and no 20 W? Perhaps a mix of these would be best?
<I'd just stay with the PC system.>
I know that the new light level is going to be a shock to the inhabitants but I want to minimize it as much as possible. I have also seen where the actinic is on for longer than the daylight lamp, is this necessary, recommended, or just a little better way to do things?
<Mostly aesthetic reasons...a softer light to start and end with. I like to set my timer up so the lights never go off or on in a darkened room.>
Thank you for your time and the abundance of information,
<Do read here and linked files above. Learn their requirements/needs.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
James (Salty Dog)>
Ted

Anemone Lighting-A Serious Consideration    5/16/07
I have a 54 gallon corner 20 inches deep. I have a 36" compact 92w 10k 92w actinic so 192 total and I'll be getting a purple LTA and want to know if the lighting is enough cause I was told it would be. I wanted your opinion. Thanks.
<I am a big fan of PC lighting for it's aesthetics and utility. I would be inclined to say, however, that your lighting is at the minimum acceptability range for an anemone. These animals require, among other things, intense lighting. Really, your best light source for anemones would be a metal halide system, such as a 150watt double-ended pendant (A Sunlight Supply "Lumenmax" comes to mind as a good choice). Watts per gallon is not a real measure of the efficiency of a lighting system. I would not compromise lighting when contemplating keeping an anemone. Really think of those halides.>
Awesome website I have learned so much in such a short time and I have been into saltwater for 5 years. Oh yea all my parameters are 0 and ph is 8.1 calcium 400 alk 4.7. Plus I was debating on spending my $ on a  65w compact 10 k if I really needed to for the LTA. Thank you, Don V.
<Honestly, I'd consider selling your existing lighting system and upgrading to the aforementioned halide system. Do keep reading up on anemone husbandry, and make sure that your up for the serious challenge of these amazing animals. Regards, Scott F.>

Was Hair algae invasion, now Relocating LTA - 3/15/07
Alex (or whoever we are fortunate enough to get):
<Hi Michael and Dianne, you got Alex again tonight…>
Thanks for the recent answers about our long-haired algae invasion.  We are planning to spend this Sunday cleaning ALL the rock in the 120 with a toothbrush and, while we're at it, rearrange everything.
Part of this process involves dismantling our 12-gallon nano (we prefer to give our attention to the larger tank). Since we have three clarkiis in the 120, we returned to our LFS the two small clownfish, and since we have two lawnmower blennies in the 120, we returned our algae blenny. Very sad to have to return fish we've come to enjoy watching, but preferable to seeing them die.
<That is sad.  But the right thing to do.>
Anyway, that leaves us with one question. Our nano has a very healthy, very happy LTA living in it. When he's wide open, he's about six inches in diameter. We are not thrilled with the idea of putting an anemone into the 120.
<No…>
However, we have a clarkii living in our Goniopora (and we are afraid he will eventually kill it). Perhaps having an anemone will encourage him to move to a more appropriate home. (Although it is kind of cute to watch him in the morning sleeping with his head on the closed-up coral like it was a pillow.)
<Awww…>
But are we making a bad decision? Should we return the LTA to the LFS instead of moving him into our reef tank? (We listed the contents of our tank in the long-haired algae communication.)
<Unfortunately, it would not be a good idea to add an LTA to the reef tank.  Corals and anemones are a volatile mix in the confines of an aquarium.  Read here and linked files at top of page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ltacompfaqs.htm
If you are still considering getting out of the coral side of things, you could keep the LTA in the large tank, but not with the corals.  Otherwise it should go back to the LFS also if you do not want to keep another tank.>
Thanks for helping us keep our tank safe and healthy for our adopted occupants!
<Sincerely hoping we can help… Alex>
Michael and Dianne

How long should Metal Halide Lighting be on for a LTA?  - 3/12/07
Hello,
<Hello, Brenda here>
Can you please tell me how many hours in a day do I have to leave my light on for my long tentacle anemone? I have metal halide lighting.
<It would depend on the size of the tank, number of bulbs, and bulb wattage.  I suggest 8 - 10 hours and adjust from there.  Your anemone may move higher or lower, or even hide in the rocks to adjust.>
Thanks, Ivan
<You’re welcome.  Brenda>

LTA vs. Power head – 3/09/07 <Hi Chris, Brenda here> First of all, like everybody else, I want to say thank you for all you guys do.  You really have helped a lot of people and marine animals!!! <You’re welcome> Well, to start off, today I came home to find that my wife had purchased a LTA. She had called me earlier and said that when she had put it in the tank, it went to the back in back of the rocks, so she said that when I got home, I could get her out and put her in front. <It is best to leave them alone.  It was still acclimating and looking for a comfortable place in its new environment.> I came home from school, only to find the tank semi cloudy and that the anemone was partly sucked up in one of the power heads, so I immediately turned the power head off, and pulled it out and took off the part she was hooked onto and put her in a bucket with tank water. I tried to pry her out as gently as I could from the screen and then placed her after rinsing her off a little bit with that same water in my smaller tank. <Power heads are dangerous to anemones, they need to be covered.  Here are some ideas:    http://www.karensroseanemones.com/coverpowerheads.htm  > She is pretty beat up on one half, I would really like to save her because she is really pretty, but what can I do other then try and letting her heal herself?  Let me know what I can do please! <The best thing that you can do now is keep your water parameters perfect. Keep a close eye on it.  If it starts to look like it is melting or decaying, it is time to remove it and do a water change before it pollutes the rest of your tank.  If things are going good after a few days, try feeding a ¼” sized portion of silversides that has been soaked in Selcon.> I also did a partial water change to the big tank to get some of the cloudiness out, I have my skimmer on and so it is starting to clear up already. <Good!  Be prepared to do more water changes.> I’m glad that all of her didn’t get chopped up, then I would really be in trouble. Please let me know how to proceed. I have attached some pics of the anemone, my tank and of some rocks. <Yes, I see the pictures.  The anemone is definitely not looking good, but I wouldn’t give up hope.> I was hoping that you could identify what is growing on the rocks.  There is an orange jagged thing growing on one, and little round red/maroon things growing on the other one, I was thinking that they might be some type of coral but I’m not sure,   thanks for your help! <The red growing on the rock is a type of red algae.  Please search for red algae on WetWebMedia.  I’m not sure what the orange is, hard to tell by picture.   Any thoughts on this Bob? > <<Keep bier in cool, dark places... this appears to be a bunch of Rhodophytes to me as well. RMF>> Chris. <You’re welcome!  Good luck with your anemone!  Brenda>

Question on LTA's Small system, research 2/1/07
Hello,
<Hi.>
I have a 29g tank with a LTA already in it. A friend in my local reef club wants to give me another LTA and I was wondering if I could place two of the same specimens in the tank w/o trouble?
<Well, until they bleach and die, yes.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm
Should give you plenty of ammunition to help explain to your associate at the club why your system won't likely support one LTA, let alone multiples (which is a no-no, especially in a system of this small size)
-GrahamT>
Thank <you(?)>,
   Trey

Anemone stuck in filter   10/8/06
Hi Bob,
Please help as I came home from work to find my long tentacle anemone stuck in my filter. I turned it off and it had sever arm stuck in the holes. The others were a greenish color. After I disconnected he inflated slightly. and just sits face down. Is there anything I can do? I fed Cyclops and saw color come back a little in just a few arms. I will look for the sponge cover for the filter (beginners mistake). I feel awful about such a stupid one.
Michelle
<Michelle:  Depending on how bad the damage was, he will probably recover.  From your description, it sounds like he only had damage to tentacles and not his body.  If he is no longer attached to the filter, try setting him down face up on the sand to see if he plants himself.  As long as he's eating, there is a good chance he will make a full recovery.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Hello, I have a 26g bowfront tank that I wish to set up as an anemone/clown system. - 09/22/06
For lighting I have a 130w orbit pc fixture. For water movement I will be using an AquaClear 110 power filter and a MaxiJet 600 powerhead. I also have 30lbs of CaribSea Aragamax sand. I will be using about 26lbs of premium Fiji LR as well. I have a 24g reef and it has been running great for 6 months, and I have had reefs in the past, so I wanted to do something new. I'm pretty sure the only anemone I would be able to keep would be a BTA, but if possible I would like to try and LTA because I really wanted to do a pair of Orange Skunk clowns. if not, I will more than likely do the BTA with a single maroon clown. My question are, will I be able to keep an LTA under my lighting, and would any other anemones be possible? someone said I could try a carpet as well? if so how often and what should I feed it? There will be no corals in this tank, just the anemone. also, would I be able to do a few of
those colorful rock/flower anemones( Epicystis crucifer) in there as well? if I happen to do the BTA, would I be able to do a pair of gold stripe maroons or would I just have to do a single? I know they get big.
<<Jordan:  I have a LTA in about 5" of sand under 400W MH SE lighting.  The anemone seems to be thriving and is about 18 inches in diameter.  LTA's need a sand bed several inches deep in order to bury their foot.  Since you have never kept an anemone, I suggest looking for a clone of the Bubble Tip Anemone.  They are much easier to keep, can live under less powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't pulled out of the ocean.  Most species of clowns will easily host in them.  I had a pink skunk clown that hosted in my BTA (until he found a way to jump out of the tank).  Best of luck, Roy>
    JB

Lighting for a Long Tentacle Anemone  - 09/10/06
Hi, my name is Thomas. I recently was offered a purple Long Tentacle Anemone for a very reasonable price, but before I give you the impression that's my main reason for acquiring this animal let me start off by saying I already was looking for a host anemone for my two False Perc's (even though I know they could survive without one.) The thought of it in my tank is just almost too tempting though. Maybe I should break down my setup first so that you know exactly what else is necessary to keep this animal alive. My tank is a 50 Gallon with 100 lbs of sand (4 inch depth should be ideal for an LTA), 70 lbs of live rock, a Maxijet 1200 Power head centered on the back and 2 Maxijet 400's on it's sides (plenty of circulation), a Seaclone 100 Protein Skimmer powered by a Maxijet 1000, an Eheim 2217 Canister Filter and for the lighting a 36" Odyssea with 2 96w 12K PC's, one white the other actinic.
That is my name concern over anything else. That's exactly 3.84 watts per gallon assuming the tank has the full 50 gallons of water only, but doesn't the live rock and sand consume enough space to bring that ratio up a little, or should I still get at least one more strip of light with maybe a 96w 50/50 or all white? I'm already growing coralline algae all over my live rock and even on some of the power heads. The tank has only been running for about 4 months and change. Isn't that a good sign? My PH is 8.3, salt gravity at a stable 1.021, ammonia normal according to test and nitrites and nitrates as well. Please be of some help before I make the mistake of purchasing an animal I simply can't provide a suitable home for.
<<Thomas:  I have a LTA in about 5" of sand under 400W MH SE lighting.  The anemone seems to be thriving and is about 18 inches in diameter.  Most inverts like SG higher.  You ought to bump it up to around 1.025 (I have mine at 1.0265 measured with a refractometer).  Since your tank is only 4 months old, and you are still learning, I suggest waiting for a clone of the Bubble Tip Anemone.  They are much easier to keep, can live under less powerful lighting, and because they are clones, they weren't pulled out of the ocean.  Clowns will easily host in them.  Best of luck,  Roy>>

Long Tentacle Anemone and lighting.   7/22/06
Hi guys!
    I just bought a purplish green LTA yesterday from my LFS. In their tank it looked great, so I purchased the LTA and now it doesn't look too hot. it just lays on its side, this evening I noticed it was turned inside out. As soon as I fed it some thawed out frozen food (Prime Reef), it became very responsive and the tentacles inflated and it looked happy for about 5 min then it let go of the food and just started to close up. I have tested the tank's water, you name it I tested for it and everything was perfect. the only thing left is maybe the lighting. My lighting is 1 10k 65w PC and 1 65w Blue Actinic PC for a total of  130 Watts of lighting. My tank is only a 20 gallon that is 17" tall with 2" of sand then the PC lights are about 2.5 inches from the top of my take making the LTA only a total of 17.5" away from the light. is this enough light for this thing? My LFS told me it was but after reading a lot of forums I am not to sure now. what is your opinion on this?
Thank You
Josh
<<Josh:  I hate to tell you this; but, you should probably take the anemone back.  Usually most anemones sold as LTA are Macrodactyla doreensis (MD).  MD anemones will only bury their foot in a deep sand bed.  Thus, you should probably have at least 6 inches vs. the 2 inches you have.  On top of that, they can get very large.  Mine is about 15 inches across.  Your best bet for a starter anemone would be a Bubble Tip Entacmaea quadricolor clone that has split in another reefkeeper's tank.  They are pretty hardy and you won't be trying to take care of an anemone that was just pulled out of the ocean.  Best of luck, Roy>>

LTA/Health/Systems  - 06/07/2006
Hi,
<Hello Charity>
I was reading through your anemone faq's and came across the advice to never buy a white anemone.
<Think it meant a bleached anemone.>
I was at the local fish store and had been researching and wanting a LTA for a while. Somehow I missed that advice before.
I have a:
55 gallon long aquarium
Wet/dry
Excalibur skimmer
1 pygmy bicolor angel (6 months in tank)
1 maroon clownfish (3 yrs in tank)
1 yellow tang  ( 1 year in tank)
1 hippo tang (1 inch, 1 year in tank)
4 turbo snails
1 rock of mushrooms
1 green star polyp
1 Montipora orange
2 strips of coral life 65 *2 50/50 lights (260 w)
1 strip of 40 watt no fluorescent lights
Ammonia:0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate 10 ppm but did have a spike the night he was added. We did a 30 gallon water change that night.
Calcium: 380 (slowly raising it up)
Ph: ranges from 8.0 to 8.2
I have included pictures showing the decline over the last few days. Is there any chance of survival? I feed him silversides. The first night he
took it immediately to his mouth. It has gotten slower over the last couple of days but he does still eat.
<For starters, never attempt feeding an anemone until he anchors down and blooms. None of the pics indicate an anchoring took place.>
Any advice you could provide would be wonderful!
<It is not recommended having fish other than clowns in the company of anemones.  Also looks like water flow may be a little low.  Is your total flow at least 600gph?  I will post a link or tow here for you to read along with related links above.  Will provide a link with info on their care, requirements and keeping.  Do read along with related articles shown above title.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm>
Thanks!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Charity
<<James... where's the original msg., pix? RMF>>

Re:  LTA/Health/Systems  - 06/07/2006
Hi James,
<Hello Charity.>
Thanks so much for the quick reply.
<You're welcome.>
I do have 605 gph flow rated return on my tank.
<Do take into account head pressure loss.  Will not have an actual 605gph, especially if the pump is of the powerhead type.>
He was anchored to the glass under the sand at one point but he has fallen over and remained since my maroon has been bothering him. Should I move the sand back again.
<Not necessary, the LTA should anchor itself in the evening when there are no menacing fish around.  You could put a clear
acrylic/plastic perforated container over him until he anchors.  Will have to do the perforations yourself, unlikely you will find anything
like this.>
I will do the readings you suggested.
<I hope you do.  We just do not have the time to elaborate on all the details of keeping anemones, that is what the Wet Web Site
is for.  Can learn much by reading FAQ's on the subject also.  Do learn/use.>
Thanks again!
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Charity

Re:  LTA/Health/Systems  - 06/07/2006
The link above has a title but no information.
<Mmm, hasn't been penned yet, correct, Bob?  Other articles on anemones will steer you right since they share similar
requirements/needs.  James (Salty Dog)> <<Correct James... there are many such articles/topics to be written... Not just by me! You may likely have more accurate, complete information re actinarians use in captivity than moi... RMF>>

On Anemones and Filter Intakes  02-05-06
Dear Bob (or whoever it may be)
<Mike G>
Today we purchased a LTA from our LFS and put him in our 55g tank.  Once acclimated he floated around for a while and then settled on the substrate under our Fluval 304 and was content there for a while.  
<After acclimating, one should always place the anemone on a surface where it would do best - allowing it to float around can sting neighboring corals or trap the anemone somewhere it will not do well in.>
Later we found him inverted on the intake pipe.  
<Certainly not the anemone's choice - was sucked into the intake tube, as is decently common with anemones.>
We tried to manually remove him but he resisted.  
<Was wedged into the intake.>
We turned off the filter and he did not release- he seems like he wants to be there.  
<Not wants to - trapped there. Do take steps to extricate the anemone.>
Thanks ~Dan
<Best of luck! Mike G>

LTA behavior, health, systems   2/2/06
Hi guys!
   wonderful site, great advice! Like many before me and very unfortunately many after me in July 2005 I made an impulse purchase, I purchased a long
tentacle anemone. Everything was fine till about a month ago. Here are parts "article" I wrote for my website (to read it all
www.homereefkeeping.com) it will explain my predicament:
<Thank you for this>
We bought an anemone in July of 2005. We got our Long Tentacle Anemone (LTA with a bright red stock) along with 2 True Percula Clownfish. The first mistake we made was not researching anemones and finding out how to care for them prior to making our purchase. Our second mistake was buying it on impulse.
<Very common>
It lived in it’s cave for a while it would expand and half went from a pale cream color to a “dusky pink”, the other half being sheltered from the bright
metal halides stayed the pale cream color. In mid October it moved from the cave to an opening in the rock on the left hand side of the tank. It would
expand to the size of a typical dinner plate. We would feed it medium/large sized (about 1/3 of a shrimp) pieces of raw, thawed shrimp every 5 days or
so.. It would take the food readily, fold back on itself, and would ingest the food given. The entire anemone turned a healthy “dusky pink”
<Yes... thank goodness energy/food provided by you through feeding... inadequate light response>
Today’s date is January 28, 2006 and since December (unfortunately I did not keep records, or dates) the anemone had been acting “strange” for the last
month. It would no longer expand fully, it had become difficult to feed, would retract on itself. It hasn’t completely lost it’s color.
<Yes, bleaching...>
Approximately 5 days ago the anemone “fell” through the rocks, for about a day it hid under the rockwork; 3 days ago it moved to the back of the tank where it has been laying on its side. I thought it had died and tried to move it only to find out that it has attached itself solidly onto one of the rocks. For the last 2 days I’ve been feeding the anemone shrimp (that I put through the blender) and Mysis with a turkey baster.
Here’s where opinion vary; where I had read to feed the anemone large meaty chunks, on another site it said to feed it small shredded pieces of “meat”.
After a bit of consideration and seeing what we’d been through with our anemone I am most certainly starting to think that the shredded option makes a
lot of sense. If you feed pieces of food that are too large the anemone cannot digest them and slowly expels the food. Thus making the anemone slowly starve,
and all the while you think you’ve been feeding it.
<Mmm, as long as the food is taken, ingested...>
Well we are now Jan 31st, the anemone has gone back under rocks where I can't get to it's mouth, it inflated it's stock huge today and seemed the have some kind of line down the middle, now (4hrs later) it's slowly deflated itself. yesterday I saw its oral cavity and it was huge, much bigger than I'd ever
seen it, today I can't see it so I don't know. Because it's under rocks I can't tell for the life of me if it's splitting, dying or just taking me for a
ride on a nasty roller coaster (worried it's dying, then it looks "ok" then it disappears) Has anyone ever seen an anemone split?
<Oh yes>
How does it act before splitting?
<Sometimes "out of the ordinary"... often not>
what else could be wrong with it?
<... a lack of light, circulation, metabolite poisoning, a dearth of biomineral, alkalinity...>
I have a 65 gallon tank, 80lbs of Live sand, 120lbs of LR, a galaxy coral, a frogspawn coral,
<... Oh, and allelopathy... chemical competition. These animals are problematic in the same water>
2 true Percs, a lawnmower blenny, 2 cleaner shrimp, scarlet crabs, blue legged crabs and an assortment of snails. The shrimp molt almost every 2 weeks.
My water parameters are as follows : ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0 nitrate:0 phosphates:0-0.5 (gha prob...) ph: 8.0 to 8.3 depending on the time of day,
temp: 79F salinity: 1.025 other than a drop in phosphates the water has been stable since it cycled in May 2005
I have a protein skimmer, 3 powerheads, a PhosBan/ROWAphos fluidizer (long cylindrical thing for active carbon and phosphate remover) up until 3 days ago
had a Eheim canister filter (stopped it to see if it was the cause of high phosphates and my phosphates have dropped from 0.5 to 0)
Thank you for all your help
Catherine
<Needs to be in a different system (w/o the Oculinid, Euphylliid) and more light... at least. Bob Fenner>

Keeping Anemones-Up For The Challenge?   2/2/06
Hi crew!
<Hi there! Scott F. at your service today!>
I would like to thank you for your advice because it really help me a lot.
<Glad we can help!>
I have a FOWLR tank and now I would like to add some Invertebrates , like snail, crabs, shrimps, etc. as well one LTA, I always put my fishes to QT before I put them on my display tank to prevent diseases.
<Music to my ears!>
I'd like to know if I have to Quarantine what I'm going to Get, and if I do, for how long? And what do I need to look to know if there is a disease.
<Okay. Here a re links to a couple of articles I wrote on the topic a couple of years back, which should give you a good general idea of the process:   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QuarMarFishes.htm        http://www.wetwebmedia.com/quarinverts.htm >
Can I keep a LTA and 1 Purple Tube Anemone* *on a 55g with Coralife 48" Lunar Aqualight 4x65 260 Watts, a wet dry 75pro and about 50 pounds of live rock and 1 Ocellaris Clownfish, 1 Bluefin Damsel, 1 Yellow Watchman Goby, 1 large Engineer Goby and 1 Green Brittle Star.
I appreciate your response an advance.
Thank you
Sincerely
K4Z3KY
<Well, K- I'm a bit hesitant to recommend the LTA for a system illuminated by anything less than metal halides, as these lights will generally assure that you're providing the proper intensity and spectrum (if you choose the light bulb), removing at least one of the major hurdles in anemone husbandry (lighting). Also, I would not keep multiple anemones in this sized aquarium, as they may engage in a form of "chemical warfare" that could stress and/or kill both specimens. You'll still have the challenge of maintaining high water quality, providing good food, and enough space for the animals. My candid advice would be to try some less expensive, more abundant, and typically easier-to-keep Condylactis anemones. Though not as "sexy" as the LTA or Tube Anemones, these Caribbean anemones are colorful and interesting, and have the added bonus of living a very long time in aquaria. You still will have to provide excellent environmental conditions, but if you're up to the challenge, they are great to work with. Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Anemone acting strangely... LTA in a ten gallon...   1/31/06
Hi there,
    Fist of all, I should say that I've read over a lot of the already answered postings, and I can't find something that sounds just like the issue I'm having with my LTA.  I'm sorry if you already have answered this, though, and maybe I'm just using the wrong search keywords.  
<Possibly... but may not be there. WWM will never be "done">
Anyways, about my anemone.  I purchased a gorgeous LTA from the LFS a little less than a week ago.  The man at the store told me to make sure I have strong circulation around the anemone, feed it silversides, and make sure to change my 96-watt bulbs if they are over a year old.  I did change my bulbs (they were about two years old) and made sure all circulation was strong (I even added a powerhead and bubble wall).  I slowly acclimated the anemone through about a one and a half hour acclimation of adding small amounts of my water to the bag water.
<Were the new/old water qualities about the same?>
  The anemone moved around the tank for several days
<A bad sign>
until it finally settled in two days ago between some live rock.  It inflated quite nicely and my clownfish seemed to show signs of accepting it (he was
nudging it and laying on it).  I then fed it a light feeding of brine shrimp just to see if it would eat--it accepted it willingly.  Then, yesterday morning, the anemone had moved again and looked absolutely horrible.  It was laying on it's side, the tentacles were shriveled and limp looking, and there were large globs of slime and large, black, curled looking balls coming out of the anemone's mouth.
<Very bad sign>
  I called the fish store and they said it was most liking ridding itself of waste.  Today it has moved again and still looks the same (more black balls have appeared and it's difficult to discern the tentacles).  My question is, is it ridding itself of waste or is it dying?
<A bit of both>
  I have a ten gallon aquarium (yes, I know 10-gallons are dangerous,
<... not able to sustain this animal>
but I have very stable conditions with 8.2 pH, 0 ammonia, nitrite, and 0-10 nitrates), 96-watt 50/50 PC lamp, strong filtration with a Skilter,
powerhead, and bubble wall, and about 20-30 lbs of live rock. The temperature stays steady at about 82º.  The tank is about 2.5 years old and
has had a clownfish and coral banded shrimp living in it happily the entire time.  Should I get the anemone out, or will it revive itself?  
<Too likely it is dying, will take the rest of your livestock with it... This animal may well have not been well-adjusted from wild-collection, had troubles no matter what was done with it, but placing it in such a small volume... very small chance of success. Bob Fenner>
Any help is
greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
~Jonathon

New Long tentacle anemone  11/23/05
Great site!, but need further clarification on this please.  I have a 20 gallon tank with 110w from a power compact. I just bought a LTA yesterday, acclimated it, placed it in the tank and it isn't attaching to anything, it was attached to the tank in the pet store, I checked it's foot while in the bag and didn't see any tears, should I bury the base of the foot in the sand/fine crushed coral?
<Worth trying>
I want to do what is best for this little guy, 2 percula clownfish as tank mates are not bothering it from what I have seen, since I had watched it for hours last night. I just didn't know if I should dig a small hole in the sand and place its foot on the glass bottom, or just enough to where the foot is anchored down so it won't get blown around by my power head, which I have moved to create less current where the anemone is but enough where the tentacles move with the current. This morning it is still looking deflated, maybe a little bit bigger not much though, has since I got it home. I assume the base of it's foot is still sticky because it has sand covering the bottom. 
I have read that they prefer to be in the sand bed and not on rocks. I had a Condy that was very sticky and attached it's self to the live rock the minute I put it in the tank,
<Its chemical "presence" in the tank may be at play here>
I know all species are different. I had the Condy for about 5 months then I had to move myself and it didn't make it during the move. I have as of last night placed it in the sand just enough around the sides of it to hold it in place, this morning it is still in the same spot. Just need to know if I'm doing what needs to be done or if I'm just freaking out over nothing and should let the anemone do it's thing, and hope it attaches eventually and finds a place that it likes.
<Hopefully. Bob Fenner>

-Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor-
Macrodactyla doreensis and Entacmaea quadricolor have interested me for a long time.. I have finally decided to give it a try.. the tank has cycled.. its a 60 gallon tank.. the dimensions are (LxWxH) 48"x15"x14.5".. lighting is what came with the system about 120 watts.. 2 4' Coralife 40w 50/50 and 1 4' 40w marine Glo.. I also have 30 lbs of live rock in the tank.. my question is what is this amount of light enough to keep these particular anemone's?? <I would suggest at least 4x55w PC's as a minimum for either, and of the two E. quad. is a much hardier specimen (they can also easily be acquired tank raised.>and if not, r there any other anemone's that would work in this amount of light??? <Not any pacific anemone I can think of> and if not.. r there any corals that I could keep with this amount of light?? <'Shrooms and polyps may do alright, but I'd strongly suggest upgrading to my earlier suggestion. Good luck! -Kevin> thank u very much for answering.. Jiwan

LTA's are NOT for Gifting!
>Hey guys. your site is awesome.. thank you so much for running such an informative source!
>>Welcome, and thanks (from one of the gals).
>I am VERY new to the saltwater hobby and want to get some quick answers from you in English.
>>Good thing, that's my native tongue.  I'd have to call Mom if you needed 'em in Spanish.
>I'm sure the answers are already posted on here, but I don't understand all the acronyms, etc.
>>Indeed, they are.
>I have a 75 gallon acrylic tank with 2 hoods on top. Each hood has one light bulb in it.  It WAS a fish only tank.. With substrate, 6 or 7 pieces of dead coral, and fish.. We bought it used.  2 percula clown fish, 1 lemon damsel, 1 blue jaw trigger, and 1 hermit crab.  My wife just bought me a Long Tentacle Anemone for my birthday.  The guy at the local fish store told her they are very easy to keep and that they do not really need any special lighting.  
>>He is incorrect.
It is pretty big with a large orange base..  It's beautiful.  I have been enamored with them forever, but always thought they were hard to keep. She surprised me, and as soon as she presented me with it, I called the fish store, and the guy told me the same thing he had told her.. Easy to keep.. No special lighting.. Clowns will love it.. Drip water to acclimate.. Etc..etc..
>>Good lord.  I am biting my fingers (read: tongue).  Any other than pest anemones tend to be among the most difficult of invertebrates to keep, long tentacles are no different.  They need BEST water quality, very good lighting.  I shall link you, please make very good use of the links/info held within.
>I dripped water from my tank into its bag for about 2 hours (to get him acclimated to the new water), and then dropped him into my tank TONIGHT.
>>Alright.  Good method.
>She looks great in there. Hopefully will find a spot and attach soon.
>>May not with such insufficient lighting, read on.
>I then jumped on the web to learn all I can about these guys. I really hope my clowns take to her, but first things first, I really hope I can keep her happy and flourishing.
>>Please, for next time, first things first means learning about the animal BEFORE making the purchase.  But you wouldn't believe how many people buy others animals for their systems and often don't know the first thing.  Recently read some posts by someone whose roommate added a fish to his reef while he was gone, it was a DISASTER.  Research first.
>My tank looks good after doing a bunch of water tests, but my salinity may be too low???  (at about 1.017 right now)... also, I am worried about my lighting.
>>That is DEFINITELY too low.  Should be at 1.025-1.026.  Either do water changes with water of higher salinity (around 1.030) till you get it to this level, or remove tank water, add salt to this s.g. and slowly raise it up.  Don't do more quickly than over a couple to a few days, though.  We don't want to shock any residents.
>I am attaching 3 pictures; one of the sticker within my hood(s) showing specs for lighting it will accept... second, a
picture of the writing on one of the bulbs housed in my hood(s).. And third, a picture of the anemone.
>>First two came up fine, server wouldn't give me the anemone, but no worries.  Your lighting is WOEFULLY inadequate.  You will have to use either compact fluorescents or metal halides, and this issue must be addressed within the next few weeks.  The anemone will have to be acclimated slowly to the new lighting or risk burn.  We have articles and FAQ's (frequently asked questions) regarding exactly this, and this anemone.
>lease let me know what I need to do to keep her alive and well..  I hope I don't have to spend a fortune on new hoods, bulbs, etc, but give it to me straight.
>>This lady is nothing BUT a straight shooter, if you can't part with the money, you'll part with the anemone one way or the other.  Do know that these animals have been shown to have lifespans so long that, like koi, they could be willed to your kin upon your death.  That means that "Oh, I had an anemone for over two years!" means NOTHING.
>ALSO, assuming I needed to raise the salinity or upgrade my lighting.. How quickly do I need to do it???  Is she in danger of a quick death???
>>Salinity: start now.  Lighting, within the next month, two at the OUTSIDE.
>And finally.. Should I move her towards the side of the tank (not really much to latch on to where she fell)???   And how many hours a day do I want to leave my tank lights on???
>>Try not to handle the anemone, it'll move where it wants anyway.  Only if its life is in peril (the powerhead suck, for instance).  Photoperiod should mimic tropical environs -- 12-14 hours/day.
>I hope that is all..
>>We can only hope.  :p
>Thanks so much!  Todd Patrie
>>Very welcome, now get ready for the linkage, Todd.  
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm  Within this link, look through Setup (to address any filtration issues, since they're not mentioned), "Non-vertebrate Life 1", and "Maintenance/Operation".  The information contained therein is FAR more than what I can adequately address here.  Marina

LTA's Are Not For Gifting, part II
>Thank you Marina...
>>You're welcome, Todd.
>Would any of these listed bulbs be strong enough for the long tentacle anemone?
>>Truthfully, not sure, I'm sending out this message to a few others as well for their input.  I would strongly suggest you bring this up on our forums http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk
>I have a feeling I'll be printing out your email and bringing it, along with the anemone back to the fish store... This is the type of tank I have - it's A "self enclosed system" by SeaClear... so I don't know if I can get custom lighting for it.. the bulbs listed are what they offer for my hoods.
>>Unfortunately, I've never worked with this system, again, the boards could net you far more results.  Including possible ideas for retrofitting, it does sound as though you really love this anemone.
>Thanks!  Todd
>>You're welcome!  Marina
>Accessories For:
Brand: SeaClear
Type: System II Aquarium
SKU: 93076
Description: SeaClear System II 75 Regular Black, Blue, or Cobalt Blue Back
More Info Brand Style SKU Dimension Description Price Accessories
SeaClear  20200  System II Explore Protein Skimmer $44.99 Accessory
Coralife 70320  ColorMax 18 Bulb 15w $9.99 Accessory
Coralife 15 watt 70037  Coralife Actinic Blue 360 18 15w $19.99
Accessory
>Coralife 15 watt 72436  Coralife 10,000K 360 18 15w $24.99 Accessory<
>>This kind of information (the "10,000K" bit) is what you're looking for with bulbs.  You want to mimic the sun in terms of color temperature and intensity.
>Coralife 15 watt 72196  Coralife Trichromatic 360 18 15w $19.99
Accessory
>Coralife 15 watt AF863  Coralife 50/50 360 18 15 w $19.99 Accessory<
>>This is another popular bulb, but in my opinion two of this, and two of the #72436 would be more in order.
>>Jas, Bob, I'm leaving the body of the previous in here because I'm sending this email out to other crewmembers for opinions.  Thanks!  Marina
P.S. Don't forget, I leave for Reno tomorrow morning.  Won't return till Sunday evening, late>>

Long Tentacle Anemone - Lighting Follow-up
>I spoke to someone at HelloLights, and they recommended that I scrap my hoods and purchase a Coralife Aqualight 4x65 watt hood.  
>>I agree.  This outfit has an EXCELLENT reputation with those who make their purchases online, too.
>It comes with (2) Coralife Actinic lights and (2) Coralife 10000 lights...  What do you think of this configuration?  Is this enough light to keep a long tentacled Anenome?
>>I think it's a good start, however, do watch it closely, and remember to feed the animal directly.
>Also, if you could recommend some other anenomes/corals that I might be able to keep with this configuration..
>>My goodness, you can certainly keep a huge variety of soft corals, Sarcophytons, corallimorphs (mushrooms), and the like.  I think you may also be able to keep large polyp stony corals (LPS), but you'll need to also address calcium/available biomineral issues if you go that route.  I wouldn't add another anemone for quite a while--see how things go with this one, as the issues aren't only about lighting but also about water quality.
>BTW - what are you doing in Reno?  Just curious?  I grew up out there..
>>Went to visit the boyfriend who lives in the Lake Tahoe (South Lake, to be specific) area.  Reno, as you know, is the nearest major (if you can call it that) city.
>live in AZ now though...
>>Ah.. a "zonie", now, eh?  ;)
>Thanks!  Todd
>>Very welcome, Todd.  Let's hope all goes well with your gift anemone.  Marina

Throwing Some Light On Anemone Husbandry
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. with you today!>
I have a couple of questions about anemones. The first one is on a long tentacled anemone It was a beautiful green color when we bought it. After being in the tank a short while, it has turned a brownish color and the base has lightened in color as well. The Tank that it is in is a 75 gallon, it has a wet/dry, protein skimmer. The lights on the tank are power compacts. I have two 50/50 smart bulbs. The water is in line with the parameters of a healthy tank.
<Well, the change of coloration is most likely a reaction to lighting conditions, similar to the changes that many wild-collected SPS corals tend to undergo when introduced to new tanks with light levels far below what they are used to. Really, for optimum growth, you need a lot of light intensity. I'm a big fan of power compacts, but under most circumstances, I don't think that they provide the intensity required for anemones. Perhaps if you add more of them, this may make a difference. Usually, we recommend metal halide as the light of choice for optimum coloration and health of anemones...>
The other question is on a small Haiti (not sure of spelling)
<Not sure what this is- sorry...>
It was eaten by the anemone talked about above, and ever since then has never been able to attach itself to anything. Other the fact of that it looks healthy good color and shape. Thank you for your help, Tom
<Well, Tom- keep providing good water conditions, feed the anemone regularly, and entertain the idea of increasing light intensity. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

LT Anemone
Hi there!
<Hi there, Nicholas!>
Hope you can help us, we find your site SO helpful!
<Thank you!>
We recently (last Thurs.) purchased a Long-Tentacle Anemone that is a few inches in diameter at her base.  She is a salmon-red color at her base with pinkish tentacles & is rather large when "open."  When we put her in the salt tank, she seemed to be fine & buried herself in the sand the next day. Just yesterday we unburied her & placed her on a rock & she attached.  
<...bad idea. I should point out that many Long Tentacle Anemones are naturally found with their foot buried in the substrate. Removing it can be extremely stressful for the anemone.>
Last night, we noticed a ball of mucous like slime (looks like its loaded with tiny brown tentacles) coming out of her side. She hasn't let go of it yet but will make it smaller at times.  This morning, she was more on her side & we noticed that on the bottom of her base, she had 2 more of these masses, one is actually fairly large & had brown algae between the mass & the rock.
Is this waste? Or is she slowly dying?
<I can't accurately tell you what it is without seeing a picture of the anemone. However, from the way you described it, I can say that most likely this "mass" is from either from Massive amounts of stress, Lack of food (lack of nutrients), poor water conditions, or that the anemones base was torn somehow. I have a feeling that the combination of removing the anemone from the sandbed and possibly tearing its base was the cause of this. As stated above, a picture would greatly help.>
Her mouth was also open wide this morning. Is she starving? We were told to feed her brine shrimp, along with liquid supplements & are now reading differently.  
<A gaping mouth is not a good sign -- possibly another stress factor (or lack of nutrients) is contributing to this. The Long tentacle anemone does best with meaty foods such as krill, squid, shrimp, diced fish, silversides or lancefish. I would first try the "trail-and-error" method to feeding your anemone: First try feeding one type of food at a time. If the food triggers the nematocysts (stingers located at the tip of each tentacle), the anemone will hang on to the food and pull it to its mouth. If the food does not trigger these nematocysts, the food will eventually float off the anemones tentacles with passing current. Take note of which foods the anemone does/does not accept. Feed only the foods which the anemones consumes. If you find that the anemone has "thrown up" its food within 24 hours, try feeding the food in smaller quantities.>
We're so unsure! I can send photos if needed.
<Yes, please send pictures of the anemones base. That would help out a lot.>
Thanks so much for your help!
<Take Care, Graham.>
The Gilmores.

Long Tentacle Anemone
Hello <Hi Dave, MacL here>
I just put a long tentacle anemone and a gold banded maroon clown that loves his partner. <Sounds nice> A couple of questions... First the anemone attached to my live rock but sideways ( horizontally). <That's normal, he's found a water current he's enjoying> Second should I feed him separately with chunks of brine?  <He does need to be fed, not necessarily with brine but the clown will also feed him. I would ask you about lighting and tank size but I see you've sent another letter and will address it more there> Thanks for your time
Dave

Re: Long Tentacle Anemone
<hi again Dave> sorry I also was wondering--- I have a 29 gal. tank with fluor 20 watt.<I have to be honest with you and tell you that I don't think that's sufficient lighting for a long tentacled anemone.>  My long tentacle anemone is at the upper half of tank. <Reaching for the light> Is that ok for lighting? <Let me point you at www//http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm, for a couple of great articles and some material about the long tentacled anemone.>

Long tentacled anemone
Hi, sorry to bother you again, <Hi Heather, MacL with you today, and never a bother.  Personally I'd much rather you ask questions. Please accept my apologies for the delay but I've been at MACNA so a bit behind.> but you have been so much help in the past. I just brought a long tentacle anemone from my LFS. It looked great when I brought it, there was even a tomato with him in the tank all snuggled up:) I've had it for about a week and it started to close up and deflate some of it's tentacles. Is this normal? <Sounds like its digesting, But let's ask a few basic questions. Is it under actinic lighting spectrum meaning actinics or metal halides? If it isn't it won't flourish I'm afraid.>  It hasn't moved all that much and my 2 false percula's took to it within hours which I've read is a good sign. Also what should I feed it. The LFS said to feed it pieces of shrimp, but it doesn't seem to want to eat it even though I stick it in the tentacle. <It will just want a piece of shrimp ever couple of days or so. It can also grab little pieces of brine shrimp or Mysis.>  It holds on to it for a while and then my shrimp come and take it away. What should I do. I don't want it to die, it's my first one. Any help would be really appreciated. <Sounds like you need to find a way to keep the shrimp away while its eating, perhaps with a net?  Good luck, MacL>

Re: One last LTA question
Hi Bob,
<Howdy>
Things are going smooth with the new LTA.  I have a link to a pic I posted on the net for you if your interested.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/download.php?id=13055
Its been pretty exciting around the house.  I had a 30G oceanic cube at my office that is 3 months cycled but has no life in it.  I found it's too hard to take care of at work so I just moved it home and tied it into my 105G oceanic.  I can tell that all my livestock is really digging the 25% boost in volume.
<Good>
  I am not sure if your familiar with Bob from EBay, he sells a live detritivore kit for new tanks.  Anyhow it's a huge deal, I have bought two from him and the 30G was seeded with one so now its like I have two fuges on the system.  Hope things are well with you, take care!
  Oh, in case your curious here is a pic of my system with the 30G tied in (please excuse the mess and the cords everywhere, I haven't cleaned things up since the move).
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/download.php?id=13172
Take care Bob!
<Thank you for sharing. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

LTA & Lighting
Hi Crew,
I have a lighting question regarding a LTA that I transferred from QT 5 days ago. I have a 29 gallon tank with the following: 
25lb of live rock w/ 3" DSB
AquaC Remora hang-on protein skimmer, powered by Maxi-jet 1200 additional Maxi-jet 1200 for water circulation Aquarium Systems Millennium 3000 filter for activated-carbon filtration
Clark clownfish (paired with the LTA within twelve hours of introducing the anemone to the tank)
Lawnmower blenny
Royal Gramma
Tank-bred Percula clownfish
3 peppermint shrimp
Coral banded shrimp
A dozen assorted snails and reef hermit crabs
Sand-sifting star-fish (a mutant actually - it has six appendages!)
Currently I have 130W of Coralife PC lighting (2 x 65W dual bulb 10,000K/actinic blue, situated 2.5" above water surface) and the LTA is situated approximately 8.5" below the water surface.
My question then is this: Should I replace one (or both) of the PC bulbs with pure 10,000K bulbs instead of the 10,000K/actinic combination? Will that help improve light quality for the LTA? Also, I have both bulbs on separate timers... 1 bulb from 9am-midnight, and the other from noon-7pm. Is this an optimal photo-period? 
<Chris, I have a Sebae Anemone in my 29 mini reef, and it seems to be doing fine with 2 65w PC's, one is dual daylight (10K and 6.7K) and one dual actinic (460nm/420nm). When it is time to change tubes I plan on going with two 10K's. I would leave both lights on for 10/12 hours for the LTA. James (Salty Dog)>
Many thanks for running an excellent site! 
<You're welcome> 

Long Tentacle Anemone/Not Attaching
Hello WWM Crew,
<Yo!>
I love your website. I have and continue to learn more and more about my marine ecosystem. Thank you! I have a 120g set up with 2 perc clowns, 2 fire fish, royal Gramma, and three anemones. My Long tentacle anemone I have had for about 3 months and he has never attached himself.
<Not a good indication... very likely resultant from an injury to the "foot" during extraction/collection; should settle with its base in the sand>
Occasionally he will float with the current get wedged somewhere, then in about 2 weeks do it again. He eats great (I feed them all shrimp 2-3 times a week) and appear to be good in color and activity. Should I attempt to get it to stay put in one spot. My fear is that we will bang heads (tentacles) with my bulb or magnif anemone....What should I do?
<Mmm, I would try to settle the animal in a spot it is likely to nestle into... rather than risk it being blown about, perhaps on to another organism, or against a pump intake. Bob Fenner><<Bob! Did you notice the mention of the other Anemone species here? Sheesh. RMF>>

Question about LTA success in Natural Reef System w/Skimming
Hi there, this is my first e-mail to WWM, but I read all the time and love the site. I have one of those questions that feels like the answer is an obvious yes, but my confidence is really low right now. My tank is about 18 months new and I just spent the last 6 fighting off a morale destroying hair algae bloom that resulted in a lot of damage. 
So here is the setup. 105G tall tank with a 30" stretch to the 4" sand bed. I am using 2X400W 20K MH bulbs with 2X96W 420nm PCs to give me a little dawn dusk action. 
My reef's chemistry is back to where it was before the bloom, 1.026 SG, no nitrate, phosphate, etc. I keep the temp stable at 78 degrees as well. The reef has about 200lbs of live rock and there is a 30G fuge tied in. I am pretty much a "natural reef" system with skimmer. Anyhow I really want to get an LTA and some clowns for this tank, but before I do I was just curious what you guys thought about this setup and its chances to thrive under these conditions. Thanks for the help,
Jeff
<Your system sounds fine to ideal... the most difficult step you are now faced with is securing an initially healthy specimen. Bob Fenner>