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FAQs about Mag (Supreme) Pumps for Circulation 

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Pump Trouble 2,
By Brand/Manufacturer:  Eheim Pumps, Dolphin, Hydor/Koralia Pumps, Mag (Supreme) Pumps, OceanRunner, Quiet One (Pentair) Pumps, RK2 Pumps, Sequence (Dart), Tunze,
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Pondmaster Mag Drive Pump; saltwater mod.     2/4/15
Hi WWM Crew,
<Eddie>
Thank you for your wonderful work and site. Every time I ask a question I say that, but every time I mean it sincerely.
<Ahh, you're welcome>
Here is the information for my question tonight. I am still in the early stages of setting up my next marine tank. I am trying to do this on a budget, so I am trying to find good deals and sometimes gently used equipment. A couple of months ago I got an almost new Aqua C EV-180 skimmer on e-bay. That meant I needed to get a pump. I downloaded and printed the instructions from the Aqua C website, and they recommend a Danner Mag Drive 7 (or any pump that rates between 700 and 800 gph), so I have been on the lookout for a good deal on a pump. This week I found someone who said he had a used, but working Mag Drive 7 he would sell me fairly cheaply. He let me take it with me for a few days to test it, and it seems to work well. Upon examining it though, it didn’t look like the pictures, and after some internet searching I discovered it was a Pondmaster Mag Drive 7 pump. It has been used for a marine aquarium before, but I am not sure it is safe. It has four screws that hold the face on that would be exposed to the water. Wouldn’t these rust and leach metals into the water?
<Mmm; yes... I knew Eugene Danner... then his son Mike (Danner Manuf.)... and wrote reviews for these pumps many years ago when they first came to market. They are different (pond vs. aquarium); especially the screws holding the volute onto the pump body... You could source some higher stainless... to replace them>
I did some searching on WWM and didn’t find much, but I did find one FAQ from 10 years ago where Bob mentioned these screws as a potential problem for saltwater use. The tank will be a FOWLR for sure, and perhaps will include some soft corals eventually.
My questions are 1) Is this a reason not to use this pump?
<IMO it is>
2) Could something be done to make it useable (covering the screws with aquarium safe sealant, for example)?
<Switching them out as stated>
Thanks again for all your help,
Eddie
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Return Pump vs. Skimmer Size – 12/11/12
Hi,
<<Greetings>>
I have had my small reef tank set up for about a year now and I was considering upgrading my return pump and skimmer.  My tank is a 25 gallon with a 20 gallon sump and I currently have a Mag 5 running a dual return line that seems to provide about 180 gph after head loss etc.
<<More than sufficient for this size sump/system>>

I have an mp10 in the display to provide for circulation (provides between 200-1500 gph max, depending on the setting that it is running).
<<Excellent>>
I also have been running a Tunze 9002 nano skimmer.  A few months ago my return pump started making a lot more noise and I have tried everything to quite it down. I have cleaned it many times and tried to place it carefully to avoid vibrations but nothing seems to work.
<<It likely needs a new volute…these pumps tend to “wear” where the impeller inserts in to the volute…and/or it may need a new impeller.  Both can generally be found on the Net as replacement parts>>
I have decided that I would just buy a new return pump and keep this one as an emergency.
<<This is another option>>
I am considering a Water Blaster pump as they seem to be built very well and run extremely quiet and with less power consumption.
<<Have heard good things about these pumps, but my first choice would be one of the small Eheim Hobby pumps…superb quality/reliability>>
I have been looking at two models but not sure which one to use.  The 2000hy Water Blaster would probably provide about 120-180 max gph based on the flow chart where as the 3000hy would probably provide about 240-300 gph.
<<If your estimates are accurate based on your plumbing configuration, I would go with the smaller pump.  100-200 GPH through your small sump is fine, and will greatly reduce any issues re noise, excessive bubbles, etc.>>
I based the estimates by comparing the actual gph my Mag 5 was putting out to its flow chart and then using that head height number for the Water Blaster flow chart. This was to accommodate for unions and elbows in my plumbing in an attempt to get an accurate estimate.
<<Okay>>
I think that the 2000hy should be fine but it may be a little slower than what I have running right now, but the 3000hy seems like it may be a little fast and would turn over my display volume 10x per hour. What would you recommend should I have a faster sump turn over or should I try the slower pump and possibly have a lower turnover around 4.8 times per hour.
<<As stated, I feel the smaller pump to be sufficient here.  But if you want to get/use the larger pump to see how the higher flow rate works with your system, you can…just be sure to plumb a gate-valve on the output side of the pump to temper the flow if needed>>
I also have a 'fuge in the middle chamber of my sump so it would be running at whatever gph is pulled though my tank. One other thing to consider is that I will be purchasing a new skimmer as the Tunze 9002 does not seem to be performing that well for me and the new one I am considering seems to be a better design. I am looking at The Bubble Magnus Nac 3.5 cone skimmer which has a pump rated for 340 gph. I have read that it is good to match your skimmer pump to your return and that the return should be if anything, slower. Is this correct?
<<Can’t recall that I have ever heard this…and certainly have never paid such any mind>>
Both pumps would be under this number but I suspect the ATMAN 1100 pump in the skimmer due to the needle impeller will probably only push about half or 180 gph and that would make it slower than the 3000hy. It seems to me that I should go for the 2000hy water blaster pump as it is closer to what I am running now but my only fear is that it will not be able to push the estimated gph into my display and it is a very expensive pump.
<<Then use the ‘3000’ and add the gate-valve as mentioned>>
 Also maybe I should have had a faster sump turnover rate all along not sure. Let me know what your thoughts are.
<<You have them>>
Thanks so much for taking the time to read over this.
Cheers
<<Happy to share…  EricR>> 

Noisy Pump    4/12/11
Hello again Crew,
<Hi Dave>
Hope you are having a great year.
<As good as it's going to get...Thank you.>
I recently have ran into a problem with the Mag 3 pump on a Remora Pro skimmer. I emailed Aqua C and while I wait for them to reply I thought I would get your thoughts on the matter too if you don't mind.
<Do not mind a bit. I believe the Remora Pro comes with the Rio 1400 as standard equipment from AquaC. If you chose the Mag 3 option, that is fulfilled by the dealer and is packaged separately from the skimmer.>
The pump has recently began to rattle a lot, and it seems to be stressing the fish. I lost a small blenny that went through the teeth of the skimmer and down into the pump. I took the skimmer box off when I replaced the fish so I could keep the cover and sponge prefilter on the pump to protect it. Last night I cleaned the tank and did a water change. I pulled the pump and cleaned it out just to be sure. When I put it back on it rattled like crazy and the new blenny went insane, once again trying to get into the skimmer box. I assume it thought it was an escape route. Do you think I should try to replace the pump?
<It may be just an imbalanced/damaged impeller or a faulty bushing. Look at the pump manual and
insure that the impeller assembly is put together properly.>
If so, would it be beneficial to upgrade to the Mag 5?
<AquaC does not recommend using the Mag 5 unless you install a ball valve between the pump and the skimmer.
Without doing this, the skimmer will likely overflow. Would be best to ask Jason this question at AquaC.>
I would like to be able to use the skimmer box.
<Meaning the surface skimmer?>
I think it makes a big difference.
<It does as most oils etc are at the surface of the water.>
Are there any other remedies you have dealt with for this particular situation?
<As above.>
I can always find ways to cover the pump, but in the long run it won't help if it is stressing the fish. I have heard good things about the Eheim pumps, and the 1250 is rated at 317gph. Would that be an acceptable change. I know I couldn't use the skimmer box anymore, but the health of the fish has to come before the appearance of the tank(though usually that goes hand in hand).
<Again, I would direct these questions to Jason and I will forward a copy of this query to him as well.>
Thanks so much for all of your help. The tank looks great thanks to the advice of you ladies and gentlemen.
<You are most welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
-Dave
Re Noisy Pump 4/12/2011
Dave/James,
<Jason>
I got that one response sent a couple of hours ago, this is probably redundant. I will paste my answer below:
Hi David,
Thanks for the message, I can help you out. That is some really strange behavior, I've never heard of or witnessed anything like that. If the pump is rattling or vibrating loudly, it could be that the impeller got damaged and it's spinning in a weird way. It's hard to say whether this really affects the fish, but I would speculate that it must affect their stress level to a certain extent.
One solution I can think of would be a DIY mod to your prefilter - you can try gluing or clamping a piece of fiberglass window screen material to the inside of the prefilter teeth. This will prevent fish from getting inside, and should preserve the surface skimming functionality of the box. You can buy this inert screen material at your local hardware store and it is easy to work with.
Upgrading to the Mag 5 will give you more water flow and foaming performance, so if your current pump isn't capable of producing a lot of wet foam, you would probably see a boost in overall performance with the stronger pump. However, if your current pump is already capable of filling the cup with wet foam, I wouldn't recommend upgrading. The Mag 5 is the same size as the 3, so it can be used with the same prefilter box.
I have attached a picture of a clear prefilter box on a Remora Pro with the Mag 3. This will give you a better idea of how it's supposed to look when installed. Let me know if you have any other questions and I can help out.
<Thanks Jason, much appreciated. I did not see any attachment though.
James (Salty Dog)>
Jason Kim
President
AquaC, Inc.

Danner Mag Drive 7 (Supreme)/Pump Flow Rates 3/22/2011
<Hello Dan>
I have a question about the model 7 Mag Drive pump from Danner.
According to the charts online, it can deliver 700gph @ 0' head, and about 480 at 4' head (which is what I need), however it only has a 1/2" inlet/outlet, seems too small to me?
<The Danner charts should be correct.>
So I tested the flow from the one I just bought used, but still basically brand new. The pump was put in a bucket with a 1/2" fpt to barb adapter, and 20' of 1/2" hose attached going to another bucket. I timed how long it took to pump 1 gallon, did the math, and apparently it was only pumping about 170gph.
<Actually, the pump's head specs are based on pumping water straight up, not on the horizontal. In that regard, the Mag 7 would shut off with 13 feet of vertical head.>
Now I've read 20' of run equates to 2' of head...that flow does not sound right.
<It isn't.>
So, I did another test, this time with nothing on the outlet with it sticking out over the top of the bucket. Then the inlet just into the bucket. Timed how long it took to pump 1gallon and came up with 480gph, but that is at 0' head. Was the impeller changed to the wrong one, was the model sticker changed? The math is 60/(seconds to pump 1 gal) X 60.
<?? My math says 12.5 gallons per minute or .2 gallons per second which tells me the pump should deliver one gallon in 5 seconds.>
Thanks for your help.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re: Danner Mag drive 7 (supreme)
Daniel
For what it is worth this is par for most pumps. The charts seem to be the best of the best with all the planets aligned just right. I have tested many pumps and few have met up to flow charts with any sort of plumbing on them. Your numbers on the Mag 7 are right inline with what I had got from a couple of them about 3-4 years ago.
Scott V.
Re: Danner Mag drive 7 (supreme)

Thanks for your quick response,
<Mmm, don't see ScottV or James about...>
I double checked my math, and my 1gallon mark was 1" too deep on the bucket, that made a fair difference in the calculations...gee you think. I still think that the pumps rated capacities on the chart were greatly exaggerated.
<As mentioned, not uncommon>
They should not be allowed to do that, not by that amount (4' head 5' hose: 327GPH tested, 480GPH rating) that's only 68%, I'd understand 80 or 90%). Would going to 3/4 hose be any better?
<Oh yes, much. The induced drag in smaller diameter lines IS significant.
Try this and see... the discharge AND intake lines from fluid-moving pumps should never be less or more than the fittings on their volutes>
Anyway, Thanks for your help.
Daniel
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Danner Mag drive 7 (supreme)   3/23/11

Thanks, Bob. James was out doing snow removal from our 100' x 16' foot drive. We got slammed with another snow storm last night and before that there wasn't a speck of snow on the ground. I just hate this Michigan weather.
James
<Brrrrrr! Id've moved long ago... May well still. Am about done w/ the U.S. B>
Re: Danner Mag drive 7 (supreme)   3/23/11
Don't blame you there. The U.S. just continues to spend money, our money, and get involved where they shouldn't.
<Aye>
Now we got Libya to deal with. Our great Obama states that we are just there in a support role. I don't call firing off 120+ Cruise Missiles @ $600K
<They're more like 2 mil. per... Oh, plus those large grey floating targets, personnel and perq.s>
each merely a support role, look who's pulling the trigger. We'll see about his statement as to pulling out in a couple of day. Yep, there are other countries involved in the role but not at the level we are. Seems like we are always stuck holding the bag. Geez, that reminds me of the Moe (Bandy) & Joe (Stampley) tune.
J
<I can only see the economy sliding further; the quality of life here taking a steeper dive; the gov't stealing even faster to forestall the end/revolution that will come here. IF I stay, I'll be helping move it along. B>
Re: Danner Mag drive 7 (supreme)   3/23/11
Mr. Fenner;
Sorry, but I need some clarification. You mentioned that going to 3/4" lines would be better, then you said not to change the size of the inlet/outlet of the pump. You may not be aware, but we were discussing the Danner Mag-drive 7 pump I just bought used (should be 1/2" fpt inlet, and 1/2" mpt outlet.)
<Ahh, Dan; sorry re. I actually shot some of the cover images for these pumps... decades ago... When Mike was just taking over the co. for his dad Eugene... and the volute sizes have changed on a few models. I do see on the Net now that the intake/discharge are as you state...>
However the guy I bought it off of must not have seen the internal thread on the inlet and thought it was a 3/4" slip, because he glued a 3/4" slipxmpt adapter to it.
<D'oh! And happily I see that there are several outfits that sell replacement volutes/covers>
My question is this, should I make them both 3/4", both 1/2", or leave it the way it is(3/4" in, 1/2" out)?
<I would leave as is myself. The intake is actually better off (but just marginally) being this larger>
Also, would having the pump internal or external to my sump be better?
<External if you think/consider that there might be a waste-heat issue...>
My tank is only a 38gal
(3'x2'x18"high) and already gets 82-84F in the summer.
<External then>
Sorry about all the questions, but I am new to sumps/refugiums, and want to make sure I have the correct return pump flow, which my first test showed about 170GPH at 4' head.
<Mmm, this is low according to the manufacturer... http://155.212.86.141/infoS.asp#>
Thanks again.
Daniel
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Pump Question, sel., Mags   7/17/09
Crew,
<Adam.>
I currently have 120 Gallon FOWLR setup... Very successful system.
My current pump, Mag 7 is getting progressively louder and driving me crazy.
What is causing this?
<Calcium buildup on the impeller, nicks on the impeller, a wearing impeller shaft, the pump moving over a bit to start rubbing against something....any number of things can cause this.>
The pump is about 3 years old.
I've looked over the articles and it looks like the Eheim is the pump to get.........but is it worth 2x the price?
<IMO yes, they generally last well beyond two times as long, so it depends on how the cost is looked at.>
1. Should I replace the impeller?
<It may do it, hard to say. I would take it apart, give it a good cleaning and check for a broken or grooved impeller shaft first.>
2. Should I replace the pump with a new one?
<If the noise is really bothersome this is likely your best bet with a 3 year old Mag. Do check and make sure there is nothing touching the pump first. These pumps can vibrate like crazy, but the rubber suction cups on the bottom do quite a good job at keeping the noise isolated. It is usually when something like the sump wall is touching the pump that the noise becomes unbearable.>
Please advise and thanks,
Adam
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Re: Pump Noise 11/7/08 Scott: <Hello again Brandon.> For a heads up, I discovered a large part of my problem with my pump (the Mag7). Once you remove the shroud, there is a small (but most definitively problematic) tab where the injection mold formed, and this tab actually rubs on the impeller! <Yikes! Playing card in spokes!> I looked carefully at the old one - it was grooved. I looked at the new one, and after 60 seconds of use, it, too, was becoming grooved. I filed this tab off, and it is the quietest I have EVER heard this pump. <Good to hear.> I'm not sure if this is a common problem, but I thought I would share what helped me out. <Not to my knowledge, I do hope not.> Thanks again for all of your input earlier on! -Brandon <Welcome, happy it worked out, Scott V.>

Mag 24 Pump Noise 7/16/07 Hey guys, <And gals> Quick question. The noise from my Mag 24 is driving us nuts at home. In you opinion which pump(s) in the market are the quietest? I heard that the Dolphin pump is very quiet. <I'm guessing this pump is externally mounted, so... Have you checked for debris/buildup of calcium in the impeller housing? Is the pump sitting on rubber/foam to help minimize vibration? The pump may be cavitating from lack of inlet flow, this would also create noise. As far as which pumps are quieter, I would log on to our chat forum and post this question there. Here is where you will get actual user responses. Go here my friend. http://wetwebfotos.com/talk/ James (Salty Dog)>

Pump size, selection I have a little giant submersible that is 300gph 1/4 output and 12.2 cutoff. I use it 2 hours to pump reserve water from basement up 10.5 ft through 1/8 tube at a rate of 10 gallons per day or 5GPH. The cutoff is about 11ft using 1/8 tube. What I am looking for is a pump that can pump the water up 15 ft through 1/4 tubing and just running for of couple hours a day. The other little giant submersible pumps which are stronger with the small 1/4 output also are oil lubricated submersible so I don't want to go that route. I was looking at the Mag 18 or Mag 24 submersible but was unsure of the effects on the head pressure and cutoff which would be caused sizing the output down to a 1/4. Is there a pump that is strong enough to push water up 15 ft through 1/4 at a rate of a couple of gallons a day? Brian <Mmm, well, there are pump, pump engineering businesses that would/could give a more definitive answer here... but am tempted to open up this query at least a bit and ask "why the quarter inch line?"... is this simply convenience for the existing through-puts? All that you perceive needing, wanting for the scant amount of water involved? The short answer is that the Mags should deliver sufficient pressure and not burn out... You can/should contact the manufacturer however re these issues: http://dannermfg.com/  Bob Fenner>

Pumps How do the Mag 18 pumps compare to the Iwaki WMD40RLXT, both are rated at about the same gph but I'm not sure how good the Mag pumps are? (they are cheaper) does the rule apply "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR". Which would you recommend? <The Iwaki brand is generally considered top of the line by most aquarists. That being said I love my Mags, I have a Mag 12 and a Mag 18 and have been very very pleased with them. MacL> Thanks

Pump Size and Overflows Dear Bob and Crew, <Scott F. your Crew member today> How do you guys rate the Mag Drive pumps in  terms of reliability? <I find the new Mag Drive pumps to be quite reliable> I was thinking of getting the MD24 for a 75 gallon with 55 gallon sump. I was hoping 4, 1" bulkheads could handle 1900 gph. Do you think I'll be ok? <I think that they will, but with little margin. You may want to go for 1.5" overflows to be safe. Regards, Scott F>

Pump Question This is a great site.
<<Thanks... is due to many people's work, not just my own.>>
I visit your site every day absorbing as much of the material as my puny brain will allow.
<<No worries - can you feel your brain getting bigger? ;-) >>
All of you deserve the highest praise for your time well spent helping others.
<<Thanks again, I will blush now.>>
My reef tank is a 75 gallon All-Glass aquarium with one built in overflow that I understand is rated at 750 gph.
<<Am quite familiar... I have one in my living room.>>
I would like to replace my noisy Rio 2500 return pump rated for a little over 500 gph at 4' with something a little more quiet, it has a constant hum, clean or dirty. I have minimized the angles in the return piping for maximum flow from the Rio so I think I am fairly close to this number. I was thinking of replacing the Rio with a Supreme Mag-Drive 9.5 rated at 800 gph at 4', but I am not sure the overflow can handle the extra gph from the 9.5. The next step down is a Mag 7 rated at 480 gph which is a drop in gph from the Rio.
<<I have a Mag-7 running on mine... this is likely fine, but you could just as easily put a gate valve on the Mag-9 and throttle it back just a bit.>>
I do not have a bulk head fitting in my sump so I am limited to a internal sump pump at this time. Which of the two would you choose, the Mag 9.5 or 7?
<<Your call and your wallet.>>
Do you know of a better quality and quieter pump for my application?
<<I use the Iwaki pumps on my 180, but think the Supreme Mag pumps are an excellent value. Used submerged they can add a little extra heat to the system, but not really a big deal. The Iwaki pumps are for external use only.>>
I know you like Eheim pumps but I cannot find their rated capacity at 4' to compare. Just for you information, heat is not a problem and I also have two Hagen 802 (400 gph) pumps, one mounted in each back corner aimed at the opposite front corner for additional flow. Thanks again for all your help. <<My pleasure. Cheers, J -- >>

Pump Selection Hi, <Hi there! Scott F. with you today!> I have been pouring through the topics and haven't really figured it out yet. I am switching from a 75G to an Oceanic 180G Reef ready and turning the 75 into a sump. As for the return pump, what should I get. The returns will be about 4.5 to 5 feet high, and I will have a 12" x 16" refugium overflowing into the display, which will be fed from the return. <Sounds nice!> I am looking at a Supreme Mag Drive pump, 1200 GPH and also looking at the same in a 1800 GPH. Also, is this manufacturer ok? Or is the Pond Master a better pump? <Mag Drive pumps are great products, IMO. I am a big fan of Iwaki pumps, however, for durability and performance. They are not the most quiet pumps on the block, but I feel that they are virtually indestructible! Alternatively, you could look into a Dolphin "Ampmaster", which puts out a lot of flow (up to 3,000gph). You could always bleed off some of the flow as needed of this is too much for your overflow, et. to handle> I will be sump skimming with a Tunze 230/3 and plan to have a Tunze top off and eventually a calcium reactor. These have nothing to do with my question, but I am just stoked on my desired end results! My friend, Phil Hanvey, is helping me visualize all this, and pointed me to your website. Thanks, James  <Sounds like you have the makings of a great system, James! Pass on the thanks to James for turning you on to the WWM site! Good luck with your system! Regards, Scott F>

Pump Size and Overflows Dear Bob and Crew, <Scott F. your Crew member today> How do you guys rate the Mag Drive pumps in  terms of reliability? <I find the new Mag Drive pumps to be quite reliable> I was thinking of getting the MD24 for a 75 gallon with 55 gallon sump. I was hoping 4, 1" bulkheads could handle 1900 gph. Do you think I'll be ok? <I think that they will, but with little margin. You may want to go for 1.5" overflows to be safe. Regards, Scott F>

- Return Pump - I'm setting up a 54 gallon corner tank w/built-in overflow SW FO. I'll use an Aqua Clear 125 wet/dry filter. I was thinking of using either the Mag 5 or Mag 7 as my return pump. The feet/head will be about 5'.  Their specs say that the Mag 5 will pump about 250 GPH at 5'/head, and the Mag 7 will pump about 420 GPH at 5'/head. What do you recommend? <Well... I used to be a fan of these pumps, due to their cost. I've since learned by having enough of them fail in various ways that I always suggest that if you use them, buy two - have a spare. Other than that, I'd suggest as much circulation as you can afford, so go with the Mag 7.> Mitch <Cheers, J -- >

Pump Questions Hi guys, I have a couple quick questions. First,  I am looking at getting the Supreme Mag Drive 12 pump. I was searching for the best price and found a website that said they are not made to be used in line, only submersible. <Not according to Danner/Supreme. It says so right on the box.> It was my understanding that you could use them in line. <You are correct.> Let me know. Last question. I have two 1.5" bulkheads drilled on my 75 gallon tank. The Mag drive has 3/4" in/outlets.  Will this be fine to run the 3/4" bulkhead from my sump and 3/4" return pipe or can I use a 1" return with the 3/4" outlet? <Feel free to use fittings to enlarge the return pipe. I would not use anything less than 1" pipe for this return.> Thanks for your help, Bryan <You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Pump Choices Scott, thanks for quick reply. <My pleasure!> Did some searching about the pumps you listed as being quiet.  On some chat forums people did not like the custom sea life pumps because they ran so hot.  What is your experience with this, b/c I was leaning toward the "velocity" pump. <Yes, they do tend to run slightly warmer than some other pumps. Additionally, some people have a bit of difficulty getting them primed after shutting them down for maintenance, etc. Generally, however, I think that they are good pumps.> Also, I was thanking of going with a Supreme MAG drive 1200 or 1800 and plumbing in-line with my sump...have heard they are quiet...IYE do they seem to be good pumps? <Mag Drive pumps are generally good quality, and I like them, but they do have their detractors, too. Again- check out the chat forums on these pumps> Last thing, trying to look up info on the Gen X/MAk4 pumps but can't seem to find much except where to buy from.  Are these good pumps and if so are they quiet? <I have not used these models myself, but the friends I know that use them are generally pleased with their performance and quality. They seem to run quietly, but not as quiet as, say, the CSL pumps. As mentioned previously, Iwaki pumps are awesome all-around pumps for quality and performance. They are certainly less quiet than some of the other models that you are looking in to, but they may warrant inclusion in your search. They are just about the most rugged, long-lasting, and reliable pumps out there, IMO> Thanks for all your help Bryan <And thank you for stopping by, Bryan. Good luck in your research!  Scott F.>

Re: Basement Pumps Howdy again, thanks for the prompt response yesterday. Today's question involves basement sumps. We are working on a design for a 120 gal tank with appx. 100 gal sump in the basement. I searched around the site a little and didn't find any specific return pump recommendations. Have you got a favorite manufacturer of pumps that will push 400-600 gal/hr with a 14' head? Thanks  Kenny <Hi Kenny, No, no favorites, I use Mag-drives as they are inexpensive.  There are many others that will push this volume and head height. Try looking at some of the WetWebMedia.com sponsors. Most of them list the volume and head height they will perform at. Make sure you account for the resistance of the plumbing, bends and other obstructions.  Craig>

Mag Pump Info. Regarding the Mag 5 and Mag 7, If these are the same Mag pumps I see (and have used previously) then please be concerned with the exposed steel screws on the outside of the housing. Then again these may not be the same pumps I used in the past, but if they are then the exposed steel screws may pose a future problem with inverts. <We will definitely pass this on to our readers. Thanks for the information...>

A Pump On The Outside... Hi guys, <Scott F. your guy today> Have a couple questions about a pump I just got.  I ordered a MAG18 rated at 1800gph @ 0'.  Here is my problem, I received the new Marine Depot catalog in the mail and was browsing through it. I came on the Mag pumps and at the bottom, I quote. "Note: Mag-Drive pumps are not recommended for saltwater aquarium external use."  What is the reasoning for this.  I am plumbing it in-line so I am a little worried.  I can't find any reasoning in doing other searches and on the pump box it says submersible or in-line. Should I be worried and get a different pump? <I noticed that, too. I am not quite sure what to make of this, myself. I was also under the impression that they can be used externally. I'd contact Supreme and get the straight scoop from them! Please do share this with our readers when you get a response from them.> Last few things.  I am starting a reef tank, going with mostly soft corals, in a 75 gallon tank.  Have the Mag 18, the more I think the more I tell myself that this is to much, will this Mag 18 be fine, maybe add a gate valve if pressure is to much. <Well, if you take into account head pressure, and use multiple returns, I would think that the pump would work okay for this application> And finally, IYO/IYE what do think of the Velocity titanium pumps.  The Velocity T4 is rated at 1225 gph @ 3'. Between the Mag 18 and Velocity what would you choose.  Thanks Bryan. <Well, I like them both, quite honestly. As you are aware, they require different fittings (the Velocity T4 is 1" hose barb, and the Mag 18 is 3/4 NPT), so you need to take this into account when designing your plumbing system and considering future pump upgrades. I have been very impressed with the performance and quiet operation of the Velocity pumps. The down side that I have heard from friends who use them is that they tend to run a little hot, and sometimes don't prime immediately upon re-starting after maintenance, power failure, etc. However, I am a big fan of Custom Sea Life and most of their products. They are a great company, IMO, and I have been very impressed with their customer service. Do verify with Supreme the external use issue when you decide. Good luck to you! Regards. Scott F>

Need more water pressure David thanks for response <My pleasure!> I have some more questions about my plumbing, but 1st I want to ask about pumps. <Fire away!> Can/do certain pumps/brands have more power?  Meaning. say, pump A is rated at 900gph @ 4' and pump B is rated at 1200gph @ 4', could pump A be more powerful and not affected by plumbing as much (if it is the right brand)? <Decidedly...yes. Pump manufacturers pay varying degrees of attention to details regarding specifications. Notice how some companies don't even provide head pressure and distance? They simply state, "1400 gph" or whatever...Companies simply want you to know that their product provides more water movement at less expense than only other company. Sometimes these companies even claim their pumps are quiet!!! HA!> Now to my current situation:  I emailed HELP #1 yesterday but not sure if it went through so I'll explain a little from that. <I remember the email but thanks for reminding me> I currently have the MAG 18 plumbed to a manifold on my 75 gal tank.  Water pressure stinks out of the teed outlets.  Here is a run down of my pluming, see if I need to do/try something different. The bulkhead in the sump is 1"-1" flex pvc about 6" to the Mag 18 - fitted to 3/4" to match the pump threads <Bingo! I might have found something. Normally, sending water through a 1' line and then reducing will increase pressure. Because you are then increasing the line back to 1' it's actually reducing the pressure. Fr a visual, think about something getting caught in a drain pipe...Does it matter that the pipe is 1' on both sides? No because the reducing action of your 3/4 line is not allowing the full amount of water to exit through the 1' pipe on the exit side of the pump. I hope I'm being clear...> - 3/4" pump outlet fitted to 1" flex pvc <This may be the problem> - there is a 45 degree elbow on the way to the main display to get my pvc out from my stand to back of tank - right before the plumbing gets to the top of tank I have fitted it back down to 3/4" then have 2 90 elbows to plumb/reach the manifold around the top of tank - <Your pump would benefit from not having these sharp angles. Try to soften them if you can. I've been in this situation and sometimes there are no logical solutions to angles> manifold is by way of 3/4" pvc - distance from pump to manifold is about 3' to 3.5'.   <Alright...this is how I see your choices: The bulkhead in the sump is great at 1' but as the water exits you need to match the 3/4 line exiting the pump. Don't use the 1' line...I believe it's killing your pressure. As the return is entering the tank, I would scale this pipe down to 1/2' which will give the water a thrust as it enters the tank. Consider using some flare nozzles to deliver the return water into the tank. Your second option is to return the Mag pump with the 3/4' fitting and get a pump with a 1' fitting, then use your 1' return line and reduce to 3/4 as the water enters the tank. This is the option that I like best because it would maximize the gallonage of whatever pump you decide to use...but of course, it's only my opinion>   Please let me know if there is something different I can/need to do to help increase the pressure of my MAG 18. Thanks for all your help Bryan.   <You're welcome! I may not always say what folks want to hear but I try to be honest! David Dowless>

HELP!!! PUMP II Hi guys sorry to bother you again, <Never a bother...We're here to help!> I wanted to go over a few more things about my pump situation.   <Fire away> I don't know what to think about the new MAG 18 I just got. Here is why:  I had bought a Little Giant pump <I don't care for these either> rated at not quite 1100gph at 0ft.  Hooked it up to my tank and ran it about 2 days.  It was entirely too loud (tank is in my office) <Common complaint> and ran very hot (called company and they said it would).  The return line was 1" the entire way and return to main tank was by a single outlet to test plumbing.  The pump had great/hard pressure and the thing I noticed was that there was a very good balance in my sump level.  2 1.5" bulkheads and the Little Giant pump kept the level about where I wanted in the sump and in the skimmer box/partition.  I thought I would have liked to have a little more power to the pump to lower the level a tad more and just use a gate valve to fine tune the sump level. <Sounds reasonable to me> So...I decided to sell the Little Giant b/c of noise, heat, and wanted more gph. Fast forward to now, where I currently bought/have a MAG 18 rated at 1800gph at 0ft. <Distance and 90 degree angles in the return will affect the gph drastically> Have it plumbed the way I described in first email...well the pressure out of the 4 teed outlets on the manifold was horrible, so I played with it awhile.  I noticed that when I capped the 2 nozzles on the sides that the 2 nozzles on the back of the tank had more pressure but I still wouldn't say real good.  So I capped the 3rd outlet which left me w/ one on the back of tank for them return.  This had some pretty good pressure, but really, when compared to my previous pump I don't think it had any more pressure.  I also noticed that w/ this new MAG 18 that the water level in my sump was incredibly high, 2-3X more than w/ the Little Giant. <Humph...> I didn't have the pump running a long time but it did seem to  level, but at the extremely high level.  I laugh b/c I was really worried about getting this MAG 18 thinking it may be to much for my tank and sump (75gal), instead it seems I need 3 more MAG 18's just to have things right.  I figured the extra 700gph or so in the new pump would put me where I wanted to be. <If your plumbing can handle it, more gph wouldn't hurt> The distance from the pump to top of tank is probably around 3' and I do have 2 90 degree elbows at the top of tank.   <That will have a negative effect on any pump> I guess it boils down to... I NEED HELP. <I'm not entirely sure what you want me to do...Can you stand another pump change? Try either an Iwaki or if you want something powerful and quiet as a whisper, try a Velocity pump. There are several models of both of these pumps and they are widely available for about $159. I currently use a Blueline pump from Championlighting.com I've been happy with it although it is louder than either of the two that I have already listed> I do apologize for such a lengthy email. Thanks a million Bryan. <No need to apologize. It was my pleasure to respond to such a well thought-out email. Let me know how this turns out. David Dowless>

Re: Mag-drive pumps How can I mount or hang Mag-drive pumps inside tank? I am use to using Rio pumps with suction cups, when done right they almost never come loose, just the pumps fail too much so I do not care for them. My tank is 180 gal has large lip. I know a closed loop would be better to add more water movement so you do not have ugly heat generating pumps inside tank but I am not wanting to tear down tank to add holes to tank and I can hide pumps behind rock. Thanks, Bruce Burnett <Hi Bruce, there are several ways of doing this, including hiding it in the rockwork. I would be mindful of maintenance issues hiding pumps in remote places. MagDrive can be set-up outside the aquarium with the intake in a skimmer box and the return manifold running as usual. A means of priming the system will be needed, but once primed (like a canister filter) will run fine.  These pumps really run better submerged (cooler) but they can be run as an inline pump outside the tank as well.  You could also simply place the pump in a skimmer/overflow box for easier access, shielding from sensitive creatures like anemones, etc. I like the remote pump idea myself.  Lots of possibilities, depends on your individual set-up and wishes.  As always, have fun!  Craig>  

Pump Brands hi guys, Thanks for the great help with my MAG 18 situation. I have been doing some research and thinking about changing pumps...AGAIN.  (75 gal tank, mostly softies) I want to run a few choices by you and let me>know what you think IYO/IYE. I am looking at the American motor Iwaki rated at 1200gph @ 4'.  1" in/outlets.  Possibly the dolphin AmpMaster 2700.  I would like to know if these are quiet running and do they run hot? Both are quiet... I favor the Iwaki for quiet/sound (except their dual pump series).> Of the two which would you suggest.   <A Japanese or American made Iwaki... may feel the Japanese ones are worth the extra cost for longevity> Last thing, trying to figure out pipe diameter with return flow, is it best to plumb with the outlet diameter or go little bigger on the return side.   <I prefer not to expand on the outflow side> Approx. 5' or so of head with the elbows and such.  Would like a pump to outmatch my 2 1.5" bulkheads so that I can fine tune the sump level w/ a gate valve on the return side.   <or a teed bleeder with a gate valve into the sump for extra overall flow/oxygenation> MAG 18 isn't working.  Thanks for all your help. Bryan <best regards, Anthony>

Need more water pressure David thanks for response <My pleasure!> I have some more questions about my plumbing, but 1st I want to ask about pumps. <Fire away!> Can/do certain pumps/brands have more power?  Meaning. say, pump A is rated at 900gph @ 4' and pump B is rated at 1200gph @ 4', could pump A be more powerful and not affected by plumbing as much (if it is the right brand)? <Decidedly...yes. Pump manufacturers pay varying degrees of attention to details regarding specifications. Notice how some companies don't even provide head pressure and distance? They simply state, "1400 gph" or whatever...Companies simply want you to know that their product provides more water movement at less expense than only other company. Sometimes these companies even claim their pumps are quiet!!! HA!> Now to my current situation:  I emailed HELP #1 yesterday but not sure if it went through so I'll explain a little from that. <I remember the email but thanks for reminding me> I currently have the MAG 18 plumbed to a manifold on my 75 gal tank.  Water pressure stinks out of the teed outlets.  Here is a run down of my pluming, see if I need to do/try something different. The bulkhead in the sump is 1"-1" flex pvc about 6" to the Mag 18 - fitted to 3/4" to match the pump threads <Bingo! I might have found something. Normally, sending water through a 1' line and then reducing will increase pressure. Because you are then increasing the line back to 1' it's actually reducing the pressure. Fr a visual, think about something getting caught in a drain pipe...Does it matter that the pipe is 1' on both sides? No because the reducing action of your 3/4 line is not allowing the full amount of water to exit through the 1' pipe on the exit side of the pump. I hope I'm being clear...> - 3/4" pump outlet fitted to 1" flex pvc <This may be the problem> - there is a 45 degree elbow on the way to the main display to get my pvc out from my stand to back of tank - right before the plumbing gets to the top of tank I have fitted it back down to 3/4" then have 2 90 elbows to plumb/reach the manifold around the top of tank - <Your pump would benefit from not having these sharp angles. Try to soften them if you can. I've been in this situation and sometimes there are no logical solutions to angles> manifold is by way of 3/4" pvc - distance from pump to manifold is about 3' to 3.5'.   <Alright...this is how I see your choices: The bulkhead in the sump is great at 1' but as the water exits you need to match the 3/4 line exiting the pump. Don't use the 1' line...I believe it's killing your pressure. As the return is entering the tank, I would scale this pipe down to 1/2' which will give the water a thrust as it enters the tank. Consider using some flare nozzles to deliver the return water into the tank. Your second option is to return the Mag pump with the 3/4' fitting and get a pump with a 1' fitting, then use your 1' return line and reduce to 3/4 as the water enters the tank. This is the option that I like best because it would maximize the gallonage of whatever pump you decide to use...but of course, it's only my opinion>   Please let me know if there is something different I can/need to do to help increase the pressure of my MAG 18. Thanks for all your help Bryan.   <You're welcome! I may not always say what folks want to hear but I try to be honest! David Dowless>

HELP!!! PUMP II Hi guys sorry to bother you again, <Never a bother...We're here to help!> I wanted to go over a few more things about my pump situation.   <Fire away> I don't know what to think about the new MAG 18 I just got. Here is why:  I had bought a Little Giant pump <I don't care for these either> rated at not quite 1100gph at 0ft.  Hooked it up to my tank and ran it about 2 days.  It was entirely too loud (tank is in my office) <Common complaint> and ran very hot (called company and they said it would).  The return line was 1" the entire way and return to main tank was by a single outlet to test plumbing.  The pump had great/hard pressure and the thing I noticed was that there was a very good balance in my sump level.  2 1.5" bulkheads and the Little Giant pump kept the level about where I wanted in the sump and in the skimmer box/partition.  I thought I would have liked to have a little more power to the pump to lower the level a tad more and just use a gate valve to fine tune the sump level. <Sounds reasonable to me> So...I decided to sell the Little Giant b/c of noise, heat, and wanted more gph. Fast forward to now, where I currently bought/have a MAG 18 rated at 1800gph at 0ft. <Distance and 90 degree angles in the return will affect the gph drastically> Have it plumbed the way I described in first email...well the pressure out of the 4 teed outlets on the manifold was horrible, so I played with it awhile.  I noticed that when I capped the 2 nozzles on the sides that the 2 nozzles on the back of the tank had more pressure but I still wouldn't say real good.  So I capped the 3rd outlet which left me w/ one on the back of tank for them return.  This had some pretty good pressure, but really, when compared to my previous pump I don't think it had any more pressure.  I also noticed that w/ this new MAG 18 that the water level in my sump was incredibly high, 2-3X more than w/ the Little Giant. <Humph...> I didn't have the pump running a long time but it did seem to  level, but at the extremely high level.  I laugh b/c I was really worried about getting this MAG 18 thinking it may be to much for my tank and sump (75gal), instead it seems I need 3 more MAG 18's just to have things right.  I figured the extra 700gph or so in the new pump would put me where I wanted to be. <If your plumbing can handle it, more gph wouldn't hurt> The distance from the pump to top of tank is probably around 3' and I do have 2 90 degree elbows at the top of tank.   <That will have a negative effect on any pump> I guess it boils down to... I NEED HELP. <I'm not entirely sure what you want me to do...Can you stand another pump change? Try either an Iwaki or if you want something powerful and quiet as a whisper, try a Velocity pump. There are several models of both of these pumps and they are widely available for about $159. I currently use a Blueline pump from Championlighting.com I've been happy with it although it is louder than either of the two that I have already listed> I do apologize for such a lengthy email. Thanks a million Bryan. <No need to apologize. It was my pleasure to respond to such a well thought-out email. Let me know how this turns out. David Dowless>

Pump Brands Hi guys, Thanks for the great help with my MAG 18 situation.   <No problemo Bryan!> I have been doing some research and thinking about changing pumps...AGAIN.   <Uh-oh...> (75 gal tank, mostly softies) I want to run a few choices by you and let me know what you think IYO/IYE.  I am looking at the American motor Iwaki rated at 1200gph @ 4'.  1" in/outlets.  Possibly the dolphin AmpMaster 2700.  I would like to know if these are quiet running and do they run hot? <I know some folks prefer the Iwaki's. I'm not positive of the differences between American and Japanese motors, but these pumps have good reps.> Of the two which would you suggest. <The Iwaki.  What is the output of the Mag 18 @ 4'?> Last thing, trying to figure out pipe diameter with return flow, is it best to plumb with the outlet diameter or go a little bigger on the return side. <It's best to go bigger than the pump outlet pipe size. Once it's in, it's in, so oversize.  PVC is inexpensive....> Approx. 5' or so of head with the elbows and such. <Yes, larger pipe will help here as well and reduce friction in ells, tee's etc.> Would like a pump to outmatch my 2 1.5" bulkheads so that I can fine tune the sump level w/ a gate valve on the return side.  MAG 18 isn't working.  Thanks for all your help. Bryan I'm confused on this last part Bryan. The idea should be to control the water level (and overall flow rate) in the display with *valve* on the return side of the pump and let the sump level be where it needs to be to accommodate all water volume when power/pump is off. This way when power goes off accidentally, the water is contained. The flow is matched to the display overflows/bulkheads, not the sump level. If sump level is an issue for the skimmer, use a skimmer box to control water level of skimmer.  Let me know if this doesn't make any sense!  Craig> I believe Anthony has a diagram on WetWebMedia.com in the marine set-ups that will help you with the skimmer box idea.

Mag 9 pump replacement I'm currently using a Mag 9 pump externally but am not happy and would like to go to something like a Mag 12.  Is there another brand you would recommend more for external use or do you like the Mags?  Would Eheim be good brand?  If so, which model would be comparable to the Mag 12?  Thanks for your help. <Hi Elizabeth, Don with you today. Many good words about the Iwaki pumps (a staple for many years) and also the Velocity pumps. You are going to spend more money for these, but as you have already found out, buying the wrong pump is expensive too! As far as 'comparable' is concerned, I would compare GPH at the pump head you are using. Bye for now, Don>

- Pump Selection - I'm currently using a Mag 9 pump externally but am not happy and would like to go to something like a Mag 12.  Is there another brand you would recommend more for external use or do you like the Mags? <I like the Supreme Mag pumps just fine, but there are other good brands. If it doesn't need to be submersible, Iwaki is a good choice.> Would Eheim be good brand? <These are also excellent pumps, but I'm not sure they are available in the higher range of output like a Mag 12.> If so, which model would be comparable to the Mag 12? <Need to research this online - most e-tailers have flow charts.> Thanks for your help. <Cheers, J -- >

Plumbing and pump help please? WWM Crew, Are there any good resources that you can recommend for plumbing a marine system? As I am not a plumber and don't have anyone local that I can count on for solid information, I don't really know where to start. I am having a hard time getting enough information to make an informed decision on how to proceed but really appreciate you taking the time with this n00b and my seemingly endless questions. It seems for every question answered that the answer generates five more. Thank you for your time and patience. My tank will be predrilled for 4 bulkheads. 2 2" and 2 1.5" bulkheads. I had planned on running the 2" (outputs) to the sump with 2" flexible PVC. To return from the sump I had planned on using a Magnum 12 to return to the 2 1.5" bulkheads with a 45" on each of the inside bulkhead's to disperse the flow. Now most of the pumps I am looking at have a 3/4 discharge line. How do I plumb that so I end up with 1.5" line at the bulkhead of the tank? Is it better to run a single 3/4" line that would tee off to two separate 3/4" lines expanding from 3/4" to 1 1/2" right at the bulkhead or is it better to create a manifold or T directly after the pump discharge fitting with two 1.5" lines to return to the bulkheads? <It's best to go with 1.5" pipe manifold, split into two 1" lines and 1" bulkheads would be fine, no need for 1.5", depending on flow rate/size of tank (10-20 times turnover). Perhaps see plumbing flow rate/head calculator on Reef Central.> Thank you for the advice on the closed loop. I think I will use 4 3/4" intakes that go to a manifold directly before pump (again seems these pumps all have intake and discharge of 3/4") and then another manifold that splits into 4 3/4" lines. Will these manifolds cause any issues as I am converging so many lines before and after the pump? -- Would it be better to have a separate pump for each line? <Not necessary, but do go with a much larger manifold. You will notice the flow rate of Mag-Drives are dependent on using the prescribed plumbing size which is up to double the size of the pump outlets. IE: Mag 18's and 24's have 3/4" and 1" outlets yet call for 1.5" outlet plumbing. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and purchase a 1.5" slip union or slip valve and a 3/4" to 1.5" threaded reducer, then run 1.5" or 2" pipe from there up, then reduce to the return size of 3/4" or 1".> Thank you ever so much! The ReefN00b <Go with larger pipe when in doubt!  Hope this helps!  Craig>

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