Is my tank big enough 06/07/2005
Hi crew, firstly I must say I love the website and all the information given. Thanks to you I might have saved my two percula clowns from gill flukes using freshwater dips and copper treatment.  
<Excellent!!>
It took three full courses of copper and quite a few dips but no signs of flukes for 12 days now.  The flukes were from a goby I bought and using your website I have learnt so much recently and I now have a quarantine tank with the only surviving clown fish.   I have just bought a new system - 110 gallon using trickle filter and sump, skimmer and UV.  
<Nice equipment!>
It will be a fish only system and I was thinking of keeping 3 green Chromis, 2 percula clowns, 1 royal Gramma, 2 fire fish, 1 yellow headed jawfish, flame angel and a fox face.
<All beautiful fish>
Could I keep one other larger fish?  a lipstick tang, copperband or long nosed butterfly or am I overcrowding?
<I think you would be ok.  the lipstick tang would be pretty big for that tank though.  Copperband and longnose should be ok but those are sometimes hard to keep.  They seem to fair better on Mysis shrimp so do provide that.  Also look at the Sailfin tang from the red sea.  Very nice fish. >
Thanks, Dawn <Best of luck, EricS>

Hello from South Africa
Hello my name is Alfred! i have been to your guys site a million times and can't get enough of it! It's absolutely fantastic! I keep seeing your name everywhere on the site and thought it would be great to meet you! Well not in person, it would be a little hard. You see I live in South Africa, I'm sure you have heard of it!
<Ah, yes... as a matter of fact, our friend/roomie, Peter Caterrick is due for a few weeks visit back down to Swaziland next month...>
I have two marine set-ups, they are quite small but they're mine and I'm proud of them! I've got a small reef aquarium and a fish only tank. The reef has a few corals, a green bubble tip anemone, some live rock, a pair of true percula clowns, a six line wrasse, a few gobies and some cleaner shrimps and snails. The fish only tank has a bit of live rock, a clown trigger, a black volitans lion fish and a snowflake moray eel.
<You say these tanks are "small?"... These are some largish fishes...>
I'm sure you get a lot of e-mails, so i won't bore you any more. If you have the time to reply that would be great!
Any ways,
kind regards,
Alfred McDowell
<Cheers, Bob Fenner, on the way out the door to Bonaire>

Tang Compatibility
I have a 125 gallon tank with a 72" length. Would it be possible with the 3 or more rule to have a Purple Tang, Yellow Tang, Caribbean Blue Tang, and a Kole Tang all coexisting? Is this worth giving a try or out of the question. 
<Lawrence, here is a link on tang compatibility.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tangcompfaqs.htm. James (Salty Dog)> 

Stocking Order
Howdy to the WWM Crew!
<Scott F. tonight>
Setting up a new tank and wanted your input if willing?
90 gal (to handle DSB)
4x110 Watt VHO w/ 2 10K, 1 6700K, 1 Actinic
4" Sandbed w/Southdown (seeded w/LR)
100 pd.s LR
1 Remora Pro w/prefilter
(prefilter will have carbon & bio-balls)
2 or 3 Powerheads
Planning on starting with a couple of clowns or damsels, turbo snails, cleaner shrimp, Maybe a goby to stir the sand, and possible a Choco-chip starfish (this ok?)
What order would you add this mix and is it ok to do the sand and LR on the same day at start up?
<After your temperature and salinity are stabilized, and the Southdown is settled a bit, I'd add the rock and start checking the chemical parameters for a week or so. After ammonia and nitrite return to zero, then you could add your snails and other "clean up crew" members. I'd add your more docile fish, like the goby, first, then go with the more aggressive guys, like the clownfish and damsels. Also, you probably don't want a "sand stirring" goby, because you want to leave the sand undisturbed for a while. Maybe another type of goby would be a better choice. In fact, I like gobies so much, that I have a few different ones in my tank!
>Any input would really be appreciated as I am totally new to the marine scene although I have done a lot of self-education with more to come.
<Sounds like you're doing great so far! Good luck!>
Thank you so much!! ---Doomed
<And thank you for stopping in!>

Overstocking? and Lionfish ID
Dear Bob,
<Steven Pro in this morning.>
I have been reading and reading and reading. I just discovered your site and really am learning quite a bit. I have two questions. The first is how do you calculate the number of fish you can keep in a tank.
<There is no good hard and fast rule. The ones mentioned are inches of fish per so many gallons, but to me they are useless.>
Mine is a 55 gallon bow front with a magnum 350. My pets are a 10" snowflake moray, 3" crown squirrelfish, 3" red emperor snapper, 6" lionfish, and my personal favorite, a 7-8" panther grouper.
<Have you investigated the adult size of your fish? FYI, this is something that should be done prior to purchase.>
Do I have to many fish?
<Way too many!>
My second question is about the lionfish. I am having trouble classifying him. I have included two pictures. He was sold to me as a dwarf Volitans species? But he doesn't look like any of the pictures I have seen. Any help would be appreciated.
<He looks like Pterois russelli to me.>
Thanks again, Bryan Flanigan
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Stocking question
Hey Craig/WWM crew,
<Hey Jun..>
How you guys doing? 
<Pretty darned good!>
I'm here again for another question. It is almost time to introduce fish in my 90 g tank. It's been without fish for 4-5 weeks now (ick outbreak). I'm thinking of getting a Foxface Rabbitfish (good fish for algae control), 
<Watch your corals...>
Flame angel
<Can be territorial and annoying, depends on individual>
six lined wrasse (I heard this wrasse is pretty peaceful)
<It's a Wrasse. can be pretty aggressive>
red sea Sailfin tang, blue tang (both tangs will be introduce last and at the same time)
<You can take the chance, may work, may not.>
2 false percula and 2 neon gobies. With all this fish, am I overstocking? 
<You have several fish in the same niche...Foxface and two tangs. If you think of lightening load (never a bad idea) this would be a place to start. They are nice fish.....! But we only have so much room....>
Are neon gobies hardy? and how big do they (gobies) get?
<They are hardy for one to two years. They get about 1"-1.5". They are small and should be your first introduction so they figure out where to hide out. The Wrasse worries me here....>
Thanks again. And before I forget, I also have mushrooms, polyps and leather corals in my tank.............Jun
<Do look up each of your prospective additions and their individual requirements, temperaments, taste for corals, etc. at WetWebMedia.com Craig>

Compatibility
Would a longnose butterfly or a flame angel bother a starfish?
<No>
In general do they require high light conditions?
<No>
Thanks
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Compatibility Questions...
Bob,
<Scott F. this evening!>
I have a 55g reef and I am going to move up to a 125g. I presently have a Clown, Flame Hawk, Purple Tang, Brown Bar Goby, Lemon Peel Angel and a Lyre Tail Anthias. All are doing very well together. When I move them over to the larger tank, I would like to make some additions. I am going to list the additions I would like to make and if you would give me your opinion I would appreciate it. I know that mixing some of the same type of fish can cause problems if there is not enough space for them to be able to get along. Here are the Candidates: Blue Hippo, Desjardin Tang, and or Chevron Tang, Long Nose Hawk, Watchman and or Orange Diamond Goby, Blue spotted Jawfish, Lawn Mower and or Bi-Color Blenny, Mandarin Dragonet, Scott's and or Tri-Color Fairy Wrasse, Purple Fire Fish (2 )and Neon Gobies. I have seen quite a few people mix different Tangs and other fish and not have problems. Don't know if they are just lucky or if they got good advice.
<A little of both, I'm sure!>
I have a wide assortment of corals as well, SPS, LPS, Softies and a Maxima Clam. If you can find the time please make any recommendations for compatibility. Also, how many fish per gallon due you think is appropriate for the type of coral in the tank.
<In the tang department, you will have better luck with the hippo, as adding another tang of the same genus (Zebrasoma) could be a recipe for trouble! I really like the Lawnmower Blenny for personality and utility. I suggest passing on the Mandarin in your setup, at least until the tank is well established with extensive amphipod population for foraging. I'd pass on the fire fish, because they can be timid feeders, and in an established community of aggressive feeding fish, may starve. Cleaner gobies are great for their utility, but you need to make sure that they get enough to eat. The Scott's Fairy Wrasse is a fine fish, but needs lots of hiding spaces for comfort. As far as your question about "number of fish per gallon", that is really not the best rule of thumb. You have to take into account the aggression, eating habits (and metabolism/waste production), adult size, and need for "psychological space" that your fishes have. For example, hippo tangs get quite large in nature, and need lots of space. The blennies tend to stick closer to rocks and cover, and may not have the same requirements. I think that you should limit the new additions to no more than 3 of the fish discussed above. Keep up the water quality with careful maintenance, and quarantine ALL new additions! Good Luck!> 
Thank you for your time, Nick Shushkewitch
<Thanks for stopping by, Nick!>

To Sump or Not To Sump
Hello sir, 
<Just Scott will do- Scott F. here tonight>
I am in the planning stages of my first marine aquarium. It is not an endeavor I have undertaken lightly. I have been researching for the last couple of months-first the livestock I hope to provide a healthy home for, and then the tank size that would require. I am working my way through the filtration requirements. Here are my thoughts, any advice on filtration and if this is an appropriate stocking level would be immeasurably helpful.
The one maddening part about this process is the number of ways to accomplish the same goal-without any of my own experience to draw on. I am hoping to set up a fish only with live-rock tank for large/aggressive species. The fish I hope to keep are as follows:
1 Volitans Lion-this is my one must have fish
1 Harlequin Tusk
1 Hippo Tang
1 angel, Majestic or Imperator
1 Naso Tang
1 Trigger-Blue Jaw or Clown-I know the clown could cause some aggression
problems
And possibly either a purple tang or sunset wrasse
I have decided to go with a 72x24x24 180 gal and wanted to know if the above stocking list would be too much?
<I'm afraid that it is too much for a 180 gal. You have a mix of some fish that are very large, very aggressive, and very messy feeders! The Volitans lion is your "must have" fish, so plan his tank mates around him. That means that everyone else needs to be compatible with this fish (BTW- the lion can reach 18"). Lions are fish that need large volumes of water and lots of oxygen, not to mention impeccable husbandry. I'm afraid the Clown Trigger is a "no-go"- too big, too mean; a bad companion for the Lion. The Blue Jaw is a better choice, but is also a pretty large fish. The Naso Tang is also a very large fish, requiring lots of room. The Hippo would be a better choice, IMO. As far as the Angel is concerned- the majestic is the smaller of the two, but can be a bit shy, albeit beautiful. The Emperor (my favorite fish!) also needs a very large tank, and can reach over 15" in length. Really needs a very large tank to live out a normal life span. Here is my thought: You HAVE put a lot of research into your inhabitants, which is good, but the fish that you are interested simply require enormous amounts of space, particularly when housed together. What about getting "smaller versions" of the fish you like, such as a dwarf lion fish , the hippo tang (which does get big, but usually is a manageable size), maybe a dwarf angelfish of some sort, a Coris wrasse (one of the smaller species), and maybe, just maybe- the Harlequin Tuskfish.?>
I plan to use a shallow 2" aragonite sand bed for my substrate and appropriate amount of live rock. My filtration plans outside of the live rock were for a protein skimmer, canister filter for large debris and occasional chemical filtration, and a UV sterilizer. I was under the impression that I could plumb the skimmer, filter, and sterilizer in-line under the cabinet. People are now telling me I need a sump-do I for a tank this size, and why or why not given my intentions and planned filtration?
<A sump is a convenient place to house the skimmer and other accessories. You could (and should still use mechanical filtration as well with the types of fish you are considering. A very good, well tuned skimmer is absolutely imperative. get the best one you can afford.>
For lighting since I don't intend to keep corals I am considering 1 daylight and 1 actinic blue though I'm pretty much in the dark on this matter if you'll pardon the pun.
<You may want a little more light-maybe PC's>
Thanks for your generosity, sharing your vast experience with those of us looking to get our feet wet. Keith Mullins
<Keith- Thank YOU for your passion and interest. Please don't think that I am trying to throw a wrench into your plan- it's just that, even though your tank is large, the specimens that you desire each have special requirements for very large volumes of water to do well. I really think the "downsized" version of your stocking plan will be better for your fishes (and your happiness as a hobbyist) in the long run. Your passion and desire to learn are awesome. Keep reading and learning- use the resources on wetwebmedia.com- you'll be fine!>

Re: To Sump or Not To Sump
Scott,
Thanks for your reply, my thought process in choosing the larger tang and angel species in addition to their beauty was in the interest of them being large enough to live with the lion-though I want to keep fish happy throughout their life span barring aggression issues forcing removal-rather than buying them thinking I'll just exchange it when it gets too big. 
<And that's a very good line of thinking! Just take into account the eventual size of the fish...That's my "pet peeve, can't you tell? :) >
I was most worried about the clown trigger nipping the lions fins-and saw some frighteningly aggressive ones at a LFS today so the clown is out. 
<A wise move!>
I don't like the dwarf lions but have considered the radiata to help with the potential size issue. 
(The radiata is a great fish. Better choice, IMO!>
The hippo and the tusk are probably the only other two fish I'd love to have, could I get away with a purple tang as well? I could go as large as 240 on the tank but from there size would be prohibitive. Any other species advice that could avoid becoming lion food would be great.
<In the 240, you could probably mix a Zebrasoma tang and the hippo without too much problem. Just make sure that they are introduced at the same time>
Maybe I'm not clear on exactly how a sump is set up or what it
accomplishes-I will research it further tonight. Could I conceivably plumb the skimmer, canister filter, and UV sterilizer inline as I mentioned?
<Certainly, but you'll find that a sump setup gives you good flexibility, and also adds to the overall water volume of the tank (never a bad thing, IMO! Do check the resources on set ups at wetwebmedia.com. There is a huge amount of information here on all sorts of setups. Keep contacting us with questions!>
Thanks again for your input-Keith
<Any time!>

Stocking for Predator Tank Follow Up
So, would an Antennata Lionfish be a better choice over the Volitans?
<Yes>
I haven't seen any porcupine puffers smaller then the striped Burrfish (10 inches). Is there another smaller porcupine puffer that I'm unaware of?
<No, they smallest in the trade get about a foot long. Perhaps a Toby/Sharpnose Puffer would make you happy. They are a much better fit for your size tank.>
I really would like to have four fish in the tank if at all possible. Do you think this is possible, if so maybe a personal pick of yours for the fourth?
<This is YOUR fish tank.>
If not would the yellow tang, Humu trigger, and antennata lion be fine?
<Likely so>
Thanks for all the information and help. It really is good to see people who are so willing to devote their time to helping others.
<You could get your four new fish (Yellow Tang, Huma-Huma, Antennata Lionfish, and Striped Burrfish) in there, but you will have to be willing to make up for it with increased water changes (25% weekly) and filtration.> 
Sincerely, Matt
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Stocking List
First I would like to thank you guys for your rapid response and the great job you do there. My 55 gallon tank has cycled finally would just like to run by my stocking list, 2 damsels which cycled the tank the rest will be added a month apart.
<Return the Damsels. They won't get along with anything else.>
2 percula clowns 1 yellow tang 1 porcupine puffer and a couple of hermit crabs as a clean up crew until Mr. Puffer gets them.  Hopefully he won't but I know he will but they should aid in keeping his teeth worn and they're cheap. Is there a possibility of getting anemone in there? 
<I wouldn't. They require perfect water, intense light and are toxic if they crash, which they all generally do in one year or less. Search on Anemones at WetWebMedia.com.>
Instead of the hermit crabs is there anything else I could use as a clean up crew that would be safe? 
<Snails>
I have a wet dry filter I'm using.  Would that be sufficient instead of sacrificing the hermits?
<The filter filters stuff out of the water, the clean-up crew cleans up the substrate. Your answer depends on your substrate and it's capacities or lack thereof. See WetWebMedia for the benefits of deep sand beds.>
One more question if I could please, I just purchased a 150 gallon tank that will be up and running in 4 months.  Just want to see what you think of my setup:  fish only, wet/dry filter, 30 gallon sump, the nautilus protein skimmer up to 300 gallons, UV sterilizer and a 900 gallon gph pump, 350 watt heater. Does this look to you to be sufficient set up? If not any recommendations?
<Depends on the fish you want to keep and their waste production, need for current, etc. You need to design the system to the stock to be kept. There is no one ideal. One thing, you will need about 250-350 watts of heater per 55-60 gallons. Craig>

Starting Over
Hi
<Hi there! Scott F. with you>
I absolutely love your site and visit it at least a few times a week. I recently had an ich outbreak in my tank that killed my hippo tang :(
The ich has been gone now for about 3 weeks. I'm going to wait another 2 before I add anything else.
<Sorry to hear about the tang. You may not like my recommendation, but here goes...I think that you should remove the rest of the fish (sick or not) and put them in your quarantine tank (you do have one, right?) for about 3-4 weeks. Even though these fish show no signs of the disease, it is in your tank. Ich parasites need a host. If there are no hosts in the tank, most ich parasites will die. Also, by removing your remaining fish (which may very well be "carriers" of the disease), you have chance to observe them and treat hem without damaging the invert life in your main tank>
I have a 90 gallon tank with 90 lbs of live rock. I use a wet-dry and a SeaClone 150 ( I need to upgrade this I know).
<Hey, if it's pulling out dark yucky stuff twice a week or more, it will do for now>
In light of my tang dying,  I was thinking about changing the live stock in my tank. Right now all that's in there is a few damsels, a tank raised clown, and a yellow tang.
I was wandering if I removed them all except the yellow tang could I add a Volitans lionfish, a Huma trigger, and a striped burr fish??? Would this be too much for my system?? I know they are all messy eaters except the tang.
<Yep- they are...And potentially very large. I'd probably choose between the trigger or the lion, and work your population around that fish. As far as the Burrfish- they're very cute, but once again, they get huge, and can really tax your filter system. Please reconsider your stocking list for this tank. To accommodate all of these guys (they all make great pets) for anything approaching a normal life span, you really need a much larger tank!>
if they can all be added is there a certain order I should add them?? I do already have the yellow tang in the tank though.........
If one does need to be excluded which would be best???
<I'm partial to the trigger, but they can get aggressive as they mature-tough call here. The lion is big- and eats slowly- the tang may be a source of annoyance...>
I really love all 4 of these fish they seem to all be so different from one another and have personality which is exactly what I want to go for in my tank.
<Yep, a classic dilemma. But you really have to consider the maximum size that these fishes attain, when considering them. You may want to try other, similar species that don't get quite as large. Check the wetwebmedia.com site for lots of descriptions of fishes that would fit the bill. Have fun, and good luck!>

Marine Stocking
I have a 37 gal. tank with the following fish: cardinal pajama, green mandarin, pacific blue tang, coral beauty, orange spotted goby, Blueline angelfish, fire shrimp, and a cleaner shrimp. I also have live sand and rock. I am moving to a 75 gal. tank and I have always wanted to get a Sailfin tang, Desjardini. How fast do they grow ? I would get a small one. I wondered how long I could keep it if I didn't get other fish? Thanks. Cheryl
<Hi Cheryl, The Tangs do best on lots of space, the two you mention may be alright but the Sailfins tend to be more territorial than the Pacific Blue. It's probably up to the individuals. Do keep in mind this Tang can reach 15" in the wild, and needs room. Of further concern is your Mandarin, that needs a minimum of 75 lbs of well established live rock to thrive. You can get more info on Sailfins at : http://www.wetwebmedia.com/zebrasom.htm and get more information on stocking and compatibility at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/stocking1.htm Hope this gets you started, Craig>

Re: stocking and filtration question
Wow, Sir Anthony,
Such a fast response. 
<heehee... WetWebMedia... where you get more than you pay for <G>>
Was glad to find out that at least I'm headed in the right direction. Beginning to understand, that I need to face some fears and put on the plumbers hat. Fears mostly due to lack of knowledge, and don't want to find my tank emptied one weekend when I get back. 
<very much understood and agreed... and will be easy to do. Do run your plumbing diagram by us when you are ready>
If I can, let me run this past you so see if I at least understand the principle. For a 75 ga, you mentioned that I would need approx a 2" diameter hole, either one large one or possible several small...(I will have to check and figure my water flow rates to size accordingly).... 
<exactly>
the hole can either be placed about 3 inches down from the top 
<hmmm... specifically you want a top hole as close top the surface as possible. The tank driller will let you know how high is possible. Its usually about 2-3" on center down from the top or can be placed in the bottom of the tank in some sort of baffled area in the corner of the tank. 
A sealed overflow tower specifically (see some oceanic displays for a visual idea)>
to prevent water from draining beyond this point if something wrong should array. (seems this way can be a maintenance issue). The (feed) from the tank should be pumped to the refugium (not sure what size), if higher than the tank, or gravity flow if the refugium is lower. 
<correct>
The refugium should be divided into three section and baffled (I understand this part). 
<hmmm... this depends. If upstream, then no baffling needed. If downstream... then many people divide in three: first is a skimmer chamber, second is a refugium and third is the sump proper>
and then either gravity flowed to tank, if higher, or pumped, if lower. 
<I don't follow here>
Gravity flow from the refugium back to the tank is recommended so the little micro organisms don't have to fight to survive the pump. 
<correct... although impeller sheer ultimately is not that big of a deal>
I guess the return in the refugium can be place several inches from the top to limit the possible amount of water that can be returned to the tank?
<hmmm... nope... makes no difference. A drilled overflow hole/bullhead will drain the same amount of water from the tank regardless of where its drilled: it is the amount displaced by a running pump (1/2-1" of surface water usually)>
If placed below the tank??
Does it all come down to sizing your pump to return the water as fast as it is gravity fed??? Is there some sort of check valve to keep both tanks honest?? Here lies the problem in my understanding...
<wow... you are making it way too complicated, bud. You simply need to see one of these simple and effective systems up and running. Do seek a LFS or local hobbyist with such to peek at a running system. It will make most or all clear immediately>
Just can't seem to be brave enough to just let the water go...and rely solely on a pump...
<honestly... well designed systems are fool proof and as leak proof as a tank without a sump>
lol...I've seen some diagrams online, which has the tanks side by side, the water is pumped to the refugium and the return is some sort of "u" siphon back to the tank. 
<that is dangerous and a major leak waiting to happen. NEVER use U-tubes or U-tube siphon overflow boxes>
This seem the easiest to construct since I would not need to build a platform to raise the refugium. 
<Ha! I wouldn't fall asleep in a house with this sort of set up>
Not quite sure how the siphon business works (Think a trip to That Fish Place in Lancaster viewing some works in progress is in order), 
<Bada boom bada bing!>
but I have some time to investigate, and want to do it right the first time. You mentioned "Reef Invertebrates" helps break it down a little. I guess a sump would work along the same principles....and if below the tank would be tied together somehow (saved for plumbing 102, at a later date)
<really all a matter of gravity overflow through drilled holes with a simple and single pump powering all>
As for the stocking, seems like the flame angle might be a bit of a problem. Saw one at a LFS, what a beautiful fish, but the only "gotta have fish" are the clown's and long nose (reason for the 75ga) . I chose both the long nose and flame because of their similarity in diets. Would a tang (blue) be a better selection to make this a happier community. 
<nope... they are sensitive, Ich prone, grow too large (12") and are too aggressive>
Trying to find a somewhat larger (mid-size) fish to compliment the long nose in the 75. (any thoughts??) 
<many... Rabbitfish although mildly venomous (spines) are well behaved and excellent algae grazers>
Didn't have much luck when I started the tank with a yellow tang (4 years ago), mostly diet issues and kind of swore off the species....(think I'm a bit more on the wiser side...at least for round
two). Thanks again...for all you help, Dave k
<Best regards, Anthony>

Stocking and filtration question
Anthony, Missed your return phone call the other day regarding the new book, figured I'd post it just in case other's have the same question. Original phone conversation concluded that a check or money order is an acceptable form of payment {for the new WWM/RT book Reef Invertebrates], using the print and send form. 
<correct>
I'm guessing that we should make the check out to Reading Trees? 
<correct again unless you would like to mail 32 one dollar bills in which case it will go into the "Save an Exotic Dancer" fund <G>>
Looking forward to reading it. 
<thanks kindly... we really are working hard to produce a unique and important reference series>
Bob's "Conscientious Marine Aquarist" is a constant source of knowledge, which is almost daily referred, since I took a step backward and currently learning how to properly take care for my fish and tank. "Reef Invertebrates" should arrive about the time that the tank upgrade is planned. 
<awesome!>
As for the upgrade, if I can run my stocking and filtration plan passed you. 
<pleased to share an opinion...>
Currently, 30 ga tank, 2 ocellaris clowns, 1 ˝" and 2", 
<male and female (or soon to be) respectively by size. Big girl>
1 yellow damsel, 1", 2 feather dusters, 3 hermit's and two turbo snails. Filtration consists of under gravel, skimmer, bio-wheel (wheel removed), 20 lbs of LR. 
New tank: 75 ga, upgrading to a remora pro skimmer, adding 50lbs of LR, Live sand, 4" DSB.
<all excellent upgrades>
Thinking refugium (might be added later). 
<please do... the sooner the better. Unlit, rubble filled and fishless would be fine for generating killer zooplankton>
Fluval 404 canister, LFS carries all Fluval accessories (think some recommend the Eheim canister). 
<very reliable and well made>
As for the canister filter? is it better than ?.say the bio wheel. 
<I think so>
I understand it has it's advantages by being hidden, ability to change media as required etc?. 
<also more reliable design, time-tested, larger surface area for media (you can even double up the course foam blocks too in the second one)>
Currently I use the bio wheel to add carbon filtration to the tank.
Carbon is run occasionally?
<nope... small amount of carbon at all times and changed frequently. Once weekly is better than a larger amount monthly. Helps with water clarity for live rock and corals.>
to cleanse the water, but often I remove the carbon filter pad and just have water movement. 
<understood... do consider adding a sump to the new tank, leaving the carbon out of the canisters (extra foam block instead) and lay small sack of carbon in the sump to work passively. Easy to replace too>
Thinking about using my penguin 160 on the 75 and just running carbon all the time, to small?
<nope... a fine alternative if you cannot do the sump>
(Using the funds saved by not getting the Fluval towards the refugium). I understand both the canister and bio wheel may be a nitrate problem?
<yes... but minor compared to a wet dry or fluidized bed filter. No worries here... water changes will take care of it>
any worse over the other? Better way for carbon filtration? Power heads? Each corner for water movement. 
<powerheads if you must... but a large external return pump from the sump would be much better. Else, there are some great options for moving water... Gemini water pumps, Reef Tecs, etc... many alternatives... Straight power heads suck>
As for the fish, thinking about adding, 1 flame angel, 1 long nose butterfly, and 3 to 5 blue/green Chromis, 2 cleaner shrimps, and some addition inverts? the long nose and flame grow to about 5"? 
<smaller indeed... especially the flame>
and not sure how they would get along? 
<some concern about aggression from the flame angel (can be tough)>
The butterfly requires a dedicated 20 ga, not sure about the flame, will they have enough elbow room? 
<indeed... the 20 is too small for the butterfly>
Also, is a 75 large enough to house another pair of clowns? 
<you'd be amazed how territorial some clowns can be... it may be a risk>
Don't want to disrupt the happy couple that I have now, so if there is a chance of a fight, I'd rather not take it. 
<if they were mine... I wouldn't add the second pair>
Future plans consist of upgrading lights and slowly introducing coral. (once the 75 and refugium is established). 
<excellent :)>
About that time, will be looking to add "Coral Propagation" to the book collection.
<with my sincere thanks too!>
Looking to use the 30 as the QT for adding the fish to the 75. Think the site recommends a 1 month min for flame, long nose and possible the Chromis. 
<agreed>
Can they QT together or would it be best to add one at a time? 
<always best one at a time... but any QT is better than none>
Any particular order be better? 
<indeed... Chromis, then butterfly and definitely save the flame for last>
Again my fish, as well as myself, thank you and the crew at WWM for saving many a fish. 
Thanks, Dave
<quite welcome, my friend! Best regards Anthony>

Hi crew just a quick question.
<Hi Clint>
I have a 100 gal with 100lb of live rock plus a 30gal sump with 10gal of this being bio balls.
Tank mates at the moment are 2 x Banggai cardinals and 2 x coral banded shrimp. I am hoping to add 2 more Banggai's and a Palette (hippo) tang. would this be classed as a light bio load and if so could i add a yellow tang or a dwarf angel (flame or coral beauty) ?? p.s. how many Banggai's is "too" many ?? as some ppl I talk to say that they fight.
Thanks for the help since I started this hobby. Clint
<Several more Cardinals would be a plus as they live and thrive in groups. The Hippo will require a bit more room than you have in your 100, the Yellow would be a good choice although he will get big too. Do quarantine any new fish, especially Zebrasoma Tangs before introducing them to your main. The dwarf Angels are beautiful but territorial, sometimes to a fault. My Flame Angel harasses his much bigger tankmates. With Cardinals that want to be reclusive during the day and active at night it might be a bit much if the Angel is bothering them during the day. I would say 6-8 cardinals, a Yellow Tang and perhaps another fish or two down the road the size and needs of the Angels would be a nice, fairly light load for 100 gallons. The Tang will use most of it for swimming space.
Stay on the light side and enjoy yourself! Craig> 

Re: Quick Picasso Trigger Question
Thanks for the quick reply as always. Would I have the same fin nipping with a Canthigaster jactator, janthinoptera, or valentini puffer?
<Possible>
If so, what other suggestions would you have to go along with the small Volitans that are of the "meaty eating" variety that don't get too big, in regards to the edibility factor of tankmates.
<Please see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/lions&rels.htm for starters. Squirrelfish, Soldierfish, smaller Groupers or large Pseudochromis, or Eels are all possible.>
My lion is promised to a friend with a 100 gallon, mine is 60 gallons, once it hits 6" or so.
Thanks again, Chris
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Damsels, Stocking Question
I was wondering if I could have 4 damsels in a 72 gallon aquarium with a Picasso trigger and 2 tangs.
Deanne
<Well, Deanne-it depends upon the size and species of the damsels, and-for that matter, the size of the tangs and trigger. Damsels can usually take care of themselves, but if you have a large trigger, they could potentially be meal items! Conversely, the damsels could harass young tangs and cause them undue stress. Check out this link: wetwebmedia.com/stocking1.htm for more information about compatibility and stocking of marine fish. Hope this helps! Scott F.>

My plan (Caribbean biotope stocking...)
Hi Bob, Anthony, Steven Pro,
<Plus, Jason and newly added Craig, Gage, and Scott.>
I’ve been trying to get some ideas together on building a Caribbean biotopic setup divided into three show tanks with a common sump and refugium. Here’s the plan so far:
100-125 gallon FOWLR (cultured LR)
1 Blue Tang Acanthurus coeruleus
1 Cuban Hogfish Bodianus pulchellus
<This hogfish will grow to about one foot and would be inappropriate in all but the largest of aquariums (hundreds of gallons).>
1 Graysby Cephalopholis cruentata
<Another guy over a foot and needing a larger tank.>
1 Harlequin Bass Serranus tigrinus
1 Golden Hamlet Hypoplectrus gummigutta
5 Yellowtail Reeffish Chromis enchrysurus
4 Neon Gobies Gobiosoma oceanops (tank raised)
1 Trumpetfish ? Aulostomus maculatus
<Another large guy that is challenging, too.>
Full grown this should be about 60" of fish. Basses and hogfish may not work well together. Thoughts?
<See above. Since I knocked off several of your choices, let me add a few; Centropyge argi, Gramma loreto or melacara, Serranus tortugarum, and Lysmata wurdemanni.>
50-55 gallon invertebrate tank with LR. I have yet to figure out what corals, etc. are endemic to the Caribbean. Any ideas?
<The hard corals are all protected, but plenty of Ricordea and other soft "corals".>
20 gallon high Seahorse tank with LR
6 Hippocampus erectus (Ocean Rider)
<I would go with no more than 4 in this size tank.>
DSB with Thalassia sp.
50-55 gallon Sump
Miracle Mud
Mangroves
20 gallon Refugium
DSB
Thalassia sp.
Aiptasia sp. ?
Gracilaria sp.
Phyto/zoo-plankton culture
I try to use tank-raised or culture specimens whenever possible. All sand: aragonite seeded with live sand. All three tanks will simultaneously pump water to the sump, pumped to the refugium, and pumped back to the respective tanks. The sump will be connected to a heavy-duty protein skimmer and a calcium reactor. The refugium will contain a passive carbon filter just prior to the water being pumped back to the show tanks. Metal halides will light the reef tank, while PC’s will light the other two show tanks. 24 hour lighting to the refugium via PC’s, and a pendant PC on the sump because of the mangroves.
<I would prefer you keep the reef tank separate from the rest. I think nutrient could become a problem from the feeding of the fish tanks. You could still tie the other together. In that case, your refugium would benefit from Caulerpa to maximize nutrient export.>
Plumbing will utilize float valves, check valves, and cutoffs for each tank (in and out) for emergencies. I’ll probably put a doser on for top off. This is a pipe dream for now, but if I start with the FOWLR tank and add on from there, I may get it done in a few, maybe 5, more like ten years. I just want to start the whole project with a plan. What do you think?
<See my notes above.>
Thanks for your input, Mike
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

New reef tank
<<Hi Steve,>>
Hello, I have just changed my 55 gal wet/dry from a fish only tank to a reef tank with the intention of having a few fish (Purple Tang, etc.). I have live rock and live sand, an Aqua C Remora skimmer, 4 damsels, snails, a few crabs, and the tank has been running for 3 days. I have been told I can add corals and fish immediately, but others have told me I need to wait at least 2 weeks for the tank to cycle. I tested my nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia yesterday, and all were zero. On a side note, I am having a hard time keeping the temperature down. With the 2 96 wt powercompacts, the tank runs about 81-84 degrees. Is this higher temp ok? I am considering buying a new canopy with two fans and a chiller. What is advisable on both issues? Thank you. Steve.
<<Please do be slow, deliberate and patient. My BEST advice is to wait and see what happens with your water and to see how the damsels do. Have you looked into stocking questions with your Damsels? Do check out the "stocking" pages of WWM paying special attention to your Damsels and the fish you wish to add. During this waiting period Be wary of ick, velvet, etc. although Damsels are a hardy lot. I would let the tank mature, there is still some hurdles to overcome. 
I would highly advise fan cooled lighting, it is unlikely you will need a chiller except for the hottest climates without air conditioning. Replace the glass top (if present) with "egg crate" light diffuser (white light grid) from Home Depot and run a fan over the surface of the water to cool it. Take your time for maximum enjoyment, only bad stuff happens fast here! Craig>>

Eclipse to Nano Modifications, Additions
<<Hi Michael>>
Hello I was wondering what I would need to purchase to make an eclipse 12 system into a nano reef. If it is possible how many fish would I be able to put into the tank after putting the sand and live rock .
<<I don't recommend nanos, especially with eclipse systems as they don't accommodate protein skimmers or the proper amount or intensity of light, and they are very difficult to stabilize both regarding water quality and heat build-up in the summer months. There is no hard and fast rule for stocking, this is dependent on the size and habits of the fish tank size, filtration, etc. I highly recommend a good book like "The Conscientious Aquarist" to help you set up a successful reef and prevent needless expense and suffering. Um, that would be for both you and the fish! A good book will save you much lost funds my friend, Craig>> 

Compatibility Questions
Hello all and thanks for the great site! This is the first time I've posted a question, but I've already received a lot of great advice from your site.
<<Great!!>>
I have a couple of quick questions (I hope).
<<Have at it!>>
I have a refugium setup. Recently, I had to put the three green Mithrax crabs that were in my tank into the refugium because at least one of them had developed a taste for my soft corals. If I try to put some Caulerpa algae into the refugium, do you think that the crabs will eat it faster than it can grow?
<<Very doubtful. Caulerpa is very fast growing in the proper conditions.>>
I have a 75 gallon tank with a Blue Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus), a Scott's Velvet Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus scottorum), two False Percula Clowns (Amphiprion ocellaris), and a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis). I also have lots of live rock, three inches of live sand, a few corals, a bubble-tip anemone, and various other crustaceans. I was think about getting an Orchid Dottyback (Pseudochromis fridmani), but I wasn't sure whether it would hurt my shrimp. I've seen postings about other Pseudochromis that have eaten small shrimp, but I haven't seen anything specific about the Fridmani. What do you think? Thanks, Patrick
Ahh, proceed with caution my friend. Pseudochromids eat small crustaceans in real life and I wouldn't imagine they would change this habit in captivity. Check out this link for your more info on your VERY territorial interest. Likely to have big problems with your Goby at least. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pseudoch.htm
Craig>>

Tankmates for puffer
<<Hi Lisa, Sorry to hear of your >
Due to some very bad advice from a local marine fish dealer, I am left with a 30 gallon tank with a small amount of live rock, a hermit crab and a Sharpnose puffer. We have had multiple losses, but finally have the tank stable with good water quality for 1 month. We were trying to find out what would be good hearty fish to add to the tank. A lot of the ones I researched seem to be incompatible with the hermit crab. My 3 year old loves the crab, so I can not get rid of him. I was wondering what would be good to add. The crab has already eaten a goby. I was thinking about small fish like a longnosed hawk, fantailed filefish or a Basslet. No sure how much danger the crab would be from small specimens. Any advice would be appreciated on hearty tankmates for the puffer. We have a protein skimmer and undergravel filtration. Thank you!
<<Small specimens can grow to be big ones! Your puffer is probably the biggest obstruction to tank mates, best on his own. You can read more about Sharpnose puffers at: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tobies.htm Follow the links at the top for info on puffers in general. The hermit makes it because he has protection. Have fun! Craig>>

Marine Livestocking
Hi,
I would like to know if I can keep these fish in my 7 foot/200 gallon tank. I have 175 pounds of liverock, a Euro-Reef CS8-2 skimmer and a trickle filter by oceanic in a 40 sump. These are the fish I would like
1 French angel
1 Goldflake or majestic
1 coral beauty
1 bird wrasse
1 banana wrasse
1 Naso tang
1 black spot puffer (which I have already)
<I would leave out the French Angel. You can only safely house one large angel in this tank. I have a preference for not mixing Atlantic and Pacific fish in the same tank. Atlantic fish seem to be particularly hard struck by Ich when mixed with Pacific fish. I believe the parasite is slightly different depending on origin.>
Thank you so much, Lynn
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Tank stocking
Greetings,
I have a 72 gallon tank with approximately 80 lbs of live rock, wet/dry filter, and skimmer that has cycled for about 2 1/2 months. I currently have 1 peppermint shrimp and 1 cleaner shrimp. I am considering the following fish:
3 green Chromis
1 common clown
<I would go with a pair.>
1 neon goby
1 pajama cardinalfish
<These would be more comfortable in a small group.>
1 flame angel
1 Klein's butterfly
1 royal Gramma
1 yellow tang
1 yellow tailed damsel (Chromis xanthurus)
Do you see any potential problems with above fish?
<If you follow my suggestions you are going to have too many fish. I would leave out the Neon Goby, Royal Gramma, and Yellowtail Damsel.>
What would be the best order to introduce these fish?
<From the top of your list to the bottom, once you leave out the above fishes.>
On another note, I have a 10 gallon quarantine tank with a single sponge filter being fed with a Rena 300 air pump that was in my display's sump for 2 weeks. Would you recommend additional filtration in the quarantine?
<No need, but I would keep the sponge filter in the display to keep it seeded with bacteria until you need it.>
Also, the O2 level reads 5 ppm. Would you recommend a powerhead in a 10 gallon quarantine tank?
<A good idea for aeration and circulation.>
As always, thanks for your help, Jeff
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Stocking Saltwater Fish only aquarium
Hey
I have a 150 saltwater fish only aquarium. It has been up and running now for 10 months. Right now, its only inhabitants are a Foxface and a Horsham crab. I composed a list of my ideal future aquarium fish (see below). Please make any suggestions you feel necessary.
2 Black and White Heniochus
1 Cuban Hogfish
1 Purple Tang
1 Majestic Angel
5 Yellow Tail Damsels
1 Harlequin Tusk Wrasse
<I would leave out the Cuban Hogfish. They get rather large and may not be safe with the Harlequin Tuskfish. All else looks ok.>
Thank you for all your help.
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Filtration.
Hi folks,
<<Hey Kevin! How goes the battle?>>
Quickly, 55 gal fish only corner tank, uncrowded. Large simple submersible Fluval pointed through 30 lbs of liverock. Prizm skimmer (not the greatest but skimming ok). Could not stand the Fluval 304 (leaky, broken handles) and replaced with an Eheim 2215. Am concerned that this filter will not turn enough water per hour; much less than the Fluval. Am I ok? 
<<yes, this is what I wrote to you yesterday. The Eheims have a lower flow and so you need to size them bigger if you are counting on using the return for part of your tank circulation.>>
I want to keep a simple system for a year to give myself time to soak in the hobby. (Freshwater enthusiast for 4 years with great success, 2 months salt so far so good). I have 1 Niger Triggerfish, 1 Fiji puffer, 1 pr. mated clowns, and 2 small damsels left over from cycling but bothering no one. I will add a lion after quarantine is set up and possibly 2 goby type fish for the tank bottom. That's it for 1 year. Will my current filtration setup be adequate in this scenario? Thanks in advance, Kevin
<<I would suggest re-assessing your stocking plans. This is just a 55! PLEASE go to this link http://www.wetwebmedia.com/stocking1.htm and follow the links at the top of the page as well. Here is a portion of what Bob wrote about lionfish which includes several of your stocking list....not good.
The lion alone needs room to itself, open areas and caves, etc. and your damsels will become feeders...>>
<<<<"Predator/Prey Relations: Lionfish from WWM
Very easygoing with anything they can't inhale; but they do have very large, distensible mouths. Damsels, etc., and non-attached invertebrates are all so much aqua-popcorn, and should be anticipated to be ultimately sucked in. The typical 'wise-guys', triggers, puffers, large angels... you'll have to keep an eye on these so they don't hassle your lion(s)." >>>> 
<<As far as your filtration I don't think you're in good shape there either. A lion alone could overwhelm your filtration and biocapacity. Less fish, more live rock and sand, more circulation, filter capacity/turnover. Try: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/filtration/marineFiltr.htm
Please consider a good book (Bob's book would be a great choice) and maybe getting on WWF's chat board so you can research the proper choices to make your tank a success. Best of luck! Craig>>