Red Chili Coral Behavior Question 8/1/07
WWM Crew,
Thank you for all of your help over the past year as I have gotten into the hobby. 
Due largely to your site's information I have had a pleasant experience and few problems.
With each new planned and subsequent addition to my tank your site has proved useful and answered my questions. However, I seem to have exhausted the available info for my current concern and.... So here I am.
<Here we are>
I have a question regarding Red Chili Coral behavior.
<Mmm, not easily kept...>
I obtained a specimen from LFS that had been there for 2 weeks as of July 6th. I did a drip acclamation and all proceeded normally based on my research and understanding (opening the spicules at night within 2 hours of the main lighting being switched off and retracting during the day). My concern is this, after July 18th (now going on 2 weeks) this near daily behavior routine has stopped. The spicule "pimples" are still well pronounced with just a tease of white. I am looking for some explanation on the normalcy of this and/or the behavior patterns of this coral.
<Feeding?>
The chili coral is placed hanging nearly upside down under a rock shelf out of direct lighting. The flow is moderate but random (flow upgrade hardware on order to help increase flow to this hard to reach area). Oh, and any general comments on the setup/maintenance practices would be welcome if you have time.
The following are the parameters etc of the tank situation
Tank established 6/23/2006
45 gal with BakPak2 skimmer with suspended nitrate sponge bag
Whisper 200 filter media filter with carbon
270gph PowerSweep, 190 gph PowerSweep
1 96 watt 10000K on from 7am-4pm (lights are 4-5" from water surface)
1 96 watt true actinic on from 5am-7pm
2 lunar LEDs on from 7pm-4am
45 lbs of live rock
2-3 inches of live sand
Salinity = 1.024-1.025
Temperature = 78-82F (night-day range)
pH = 8.2 +/- depending on temp
Nitrite = 0
Ammonia = 0
Nitrate = ~ 5 ppm (I think this is a good level for the single Tridacna crocea clam)
<Mmm, yes>
Calcium = 400-450 ppm
Alkalinity = 11.5-12 dKH
Dosing of iodine, trace elements and Coral-Vite
<I would not use>
once per week during the weekend.
Water top offs using de-ionized water buffered with Kent Superbuffer and Instant Ocean Salt mix about 1x week.
1 8oz cup of Kalkwasser drip every 2nd day with additional calcium buildup using Seachem calcium as needed based on level.
~10 reef crabs, ~10 various snail types, 1 sand sifting star, 1 peppermint shrimp, 2 feather dusters, 1 frogspawn coral, 1 green button polyp colony, 1 yellow polyp colony, 1 zoanthid colony, 1 Montipora frag,
2 pulsing xenia stalks, 7 various mushroom types, 1 green bubble tip anemone clown (has been stationary for 9 months and hosts a true percula and doesn't impinge on any other corals), 1 4"Tridacna crocea clam (thriving and growing well placed right near the top of the rock pile), 1 red chili coral.
<... this Neptheid is a "loser" with the other groups of Cnidarians listed... the far inferior contestant in stinging, growing, chemical competition...>
Phytoplex phytoplankton every 3rd day
<Insufficient>
with skimmer and filter media off Fish feeding once per day as well as reef plankton target feeding of polyps, silverside pieces every 3-4 days for the green bubble tip anemone
No real problems other than the chili coral. All inhabitants doing well, thriving, growing, splitting etc.
<I would have just left your system as it is stocking-wise>
Thanks again and hope the given information is helpful to answer my question
<This is one of the more hardy (relatively) soft corals of the family... but needs to be fed substantially... zoo-plankton of small size/s... See WWM re... requires good circulation... and an absence of too many, well-established, better adapted stinging-celled life about it. Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/nephtheids.htm
for the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Red Chili Coral Behavior Question, and hlth.  – 10/04/07
Hello again,
Thought I would write back with some feedback to you regarding a Chili Coral specimen.
<Okay>
Good news all around. The specimen is doing awesome and back to its normal daily routine and behavior. It appears to even be growing a small bit. Through some replacement and addition of higher and random flow along with reduction in the amount of skimming things seem to be back on track. It was not until mid September (almost 2 full months of "dormancy" did the coral come back out in all its splendor. I seem to be lucky in that my LFS got a new employee in who provided me with some possible tactics. I dramatically reduced my skimmer operation time from essentially 23hrs per day gradually down to about 12 hours a day. The skimmer is off during night time feeding period for this coral which I increased in frequency based on your recommendations. I now feed every day except for Sunday with phyto and zoo plankton. My water parameters have remained all normal. The only side effect is now a bit more hair algae growth. Thought you would like some feedback that is good news and if anyone else has similar problems this might be of use.
Thanks again and I continue to have a pleasant time with my tank and its prospering inhabitants
Sincerely,
Craig Martell
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Capnella Detaching - 11/16/06
My Capnella is detaching from all the rocks.  How to reattach these pieces?
<<Mmm...I think the bigger question is "why" is the Capnella coming detached?  Do ensure your water quality/water flow is as it should be.  Read/search here; and among the linked files, for more specific information on their care (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nephtheidfaqs.htm).  As for "reattaching" the Capnella, these Neptheids can be problematic re.  Super-glue doesn't really work...rubber bands tend to "cut" the animal apart before it has a chance to attach...I think your best option is to "sew" the pieces to the rock.  Use some fine monofilament fishing line and a sewing needle...pass the needle through the base of the piece and then tie the piece of Capnella to the rock.  Regards, EricR>>

Chili coral wont open... keep upside down with good flow! 1/11/05
I have a Chili coral in my 60G LR/LS reef tank that won't open up.
<this most always occurs from lack of water flow: not enough or not enough of the right kind. Also... the animal must be kept upside down to survive naturally long term>
I have had it since May of '04. Tank Parameters are: Ph: 8.2 Salinity 1.0225/1.023 Temp 77-78 Calcium 350-400ppm all others (nitrate, nitrite, ammonia) minimal/barely readable. Feed PhytoPlex and zooplankton 2x per week.
<hoping for a fishless refugium too... this would be a great benefit for many reasons>
The coral used to open up every night, until it ejected the spicules from one branch. As per advice from I don't remember where, I cut off that piece. This was in August. it didn't open after that for a few days only, but after that it was business as usual. Then I moved. I put all the livestock in buckets one day, then set up the tanks next day or the day after. When I took "chili guy" (as I call it) out of the bucket, it was open, and remained open for several days after being put in the tank again, I figure it was hungry, yes? Anyway, then it closed up and hasn't opened up again since. I moved Thanksgiving weekend. I have it in a cave, with a powerhead directed at it and attached to a rock with rubber bands so it hangs upside down in the cave.
<do be careful about laminar flow like this... its unnatural for most corals and can be fatal in time. Turbulent flow would be better>
(The rubber bands only touch the rock it came with so as not to split it) Is there anything I can do to save it?
<manipulate the powerheads to create a better flow pattern around the coral. Do a keyword search here on our website for an article called "goodbye powerheads" for a better long term solution>
even though it is just a red lump, it has yet to eject
any more spicules, so I think I stopped that from spreading. My Fiancé's cousin gave us a book and said that there is something in the book that we could try-something about dipping chili guy in freshwater for 30 seconds, then in a strong iodine solution.
<little or no purpose for doing this... no pathogen is indicated, and frankly... the brief dip would do little to help it if there were>
I think this is supposed to shock it into "resetting" itself (like
it's a computer?!)
<ahhh... no.>
If anyone knows that exact formula, that would be great, as I cannot find it in the book, "Reef Secrets." Thanks for all your help!
<trust me, mate... its all about finding the right kind of flow. Do try feeding thawed frozen (or dry in slurry) Cyclop-eeze as a better zooplankton offering. Anthony>