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FAQs about Soft Corals of the Family Nephtheidae
Reproduction/Propagation
Related Articles: Soft Corals of the Family
Nephtheidae, The Soft Corals of
the genus Dendronephthya,
Soft Corals, Order Alcyonacea
Related FAQs: Nephtheids 1,
Nephtheids 2, Neptheid Identification,
Nephtheid Behavior, Nephtheid
Compatibility, Nephtheid Selection,
Nephtheid Systems, Nephtheid Feeding,
Nephtheid Disease, Soft Coral
Propagation, Alcyoniids,
Dendronephthya, Paralcyoniids,
Nidaliids, Xeniids,
Soft Corals/Order Alcyonacea | 
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Ask the WWM crew, Coral repro., Kenya Tree
1/1/09
Hi WWM crew,
<Hello William, Minh at your
service.>
I've been in the hobby for about 10 years and am currently
17. I am currently running three tanks and about two years ago finally
made the jump to salt water with two of them (a 30g main and a 10g
hospital). I felt confident in myself and went for the reef setup in the
30g early on and have moderately succeeded so far. I wanted to ask if
there was any reason why coral reproduction would be laggard or if there
were specific issues that could help the acceleration of reproduction.
<Coral growth is a function of several key factors: water quality, food
availability and light availability. More on these points later.>
I
have read many of the FAQ's and articles but most talk about slowing the
growth, which I want to accelerate. I am currently keeping a small green
starburst polyp colony, a small glove polyp colony, small Kenya tree
(which I just attempted my first coral cutting on[successful]), and a
medium button polyp colony and all are separated by several inches at
least and some over a foot, are well lit, and have good water flow.
<Congratulations on successfully fragmenting your first coral. The
Geothermal Aquaculture Research Foundation (GARF) has an excellent site
with excellent techniques for your future fragging endeavors:
http://www.garf.org/.>
I have a Corallife light with two T5 bulbs
(one 10,000k and one actinic), a Rena XP2 Canister filter, a Maxi-Jet
600, a SeaClone 100 Protein Skimmer and three heaters (two 150W and one
50W). The bottom is coated in about 4
inch thick layer of live sand
and the tank has about 50lbs of live rock. I am soon going to be taking
this setup completely apart to be used as the sump for my new predrilled
55g so I will probably not add any new equipment
unless absolutely
necessary. The water parameters are: salinity=1.022, ammonia=0ppm,
nitrite=0ppm, nitrate=10-100ppm(I know that's bad but my town water has
15ppm by itself and I need to travel to get better water),
pH=8.2,
hardness=10 degrees, and Calcium=495.
<Let's talk about water
quality. Obviously, the elevated nitrate level is of concern. To address
this, there are several options. First, by switching to a purer source
water produced by your RO unit, you should address a major contributor
to high nitrate readings. Furthermore, there are other methods that you
could apply to your new tank that will help:
-Reduce the inputs of
nitrogen to the aquaria.
-Increase nitrogen export by growing and
harvesting macroalgae or turf algae (or any other organism of your
choice).
-Use a deep sand bed.
-Remove existing filters designed
to facilitate the nitrogen cycle (such as your Rena XP2).
These
methods are described in details in this excellent article, "Nitrate in
the Reef Aquarium":
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm.
Aside
from nutrient control, having excellent water quality to maximize coral
growth includes careful management over pH and some major elements such
as alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. Your calcium reading of 495 (ppm?)
is a cause for concern. The recommended range for calcium in a reef
aquarium is 380-450ppm calcium ion. Sustained elevated calcium levels
may lead to some problems, such as precipitation of calcium carbonate
and ultimately driving down alkalinity. Furthermore, elevated calcium
readings may also indicate high phosphate concentration. For more
information on this subject, please review the following articles:
-
"A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity,
Magnesium and pH":
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php#18.
-
"Solving Calcium and Alkalinity Problems":
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm.>
My
inhabitants are down to only a female tomato clown and a cylindrical
Sandperch after a few mishaps with a Leopard Wrasse (femme
fatale[inexperience in copepods]), a Coral Beauty Angel, a Sixline
Wrasse (viral infection), the male Tomato clown(killed by female) and a
Yellow Tang. I have always been fighting the nitrate levels in all three
tanks and I believe I am finally going to get a RO unit to end my
troubles.
My main goal is to encourage the spreading of the polyps
and propagated Kenya trees over my rocks but so far they haven't made an
attempt to do anything of the sort. Any recommendations would be well
appreciated.
<Aside from the topic of water quality addressed above.
Light and food availability are important factors to consider in
maximizing coral growth.
The soft corals you currently house are
normally classified as low light corals and your current lighting method
should suffice. Regular bulb replacement to ensure the highest
photosynthetic usable radiation (PUR) reaching your corals will optimize
growth. As you acquire more corals and upgrade to larger and potentially
taller tanks, adding more lighting units or more intense units should be
considered. Lastly, another key component for your consideration in
coral husbandry is food availability. To supplement the energy corals
gain via photosynthesis, one can feed a variety of food. Further reading
on this subject is available in this excellent series of articles: "Reef
Food":
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/eb/index.php.>
Thanks again,
William Joyce
<You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh>
Kenya Tree Reproduction – 10/02/08
Good evening WWM crew.
<Howdy. Jessy here.>
I recently set-up a new reef aquarium and am
experiencing a new phenomena. The Kenya Tree that I have had for over a
year now seems to shedding. Small segment near the top of this coral are
breaking off to what seems to be anew colony. Is this a natural asexual
reproduction or am I experiencing something different? The small pieces
I have put into a small 10 G quarantine tank and they seem to be doing
fine. All my parameters are in check. What is the scoop?
<This is
how Kenya Trees reproduce. Sending off little babies. If you aren't
careful you'll soon find yourself with a forest of Kenya Trees all over
your reef. Read more on the subject. Regards, Jessy>
Capnella? Is spawning 2/15/07
<Sure seems to be!>
Hi
Bob. the odyssey continues.
<Always>
Previously I sent
a picture asking if the hitchhiking coral was Capnella. At the time
I didn't know they can shrink up into little balls.
<Yes, can>
and after a couple days I thought they were just growing really
fast. So just to be sure I've attached more recent photos of the
tree corals and one showing a polyp expelling an egg.
<Neat>
Tuesday and Wednesday both of them have been releasing small
orange 'eggs' all day long. The green star polyps I have (Briareum)
appeared to be doing well and has affixed itself to the rock. But
Wednesday morning for the first time they did not come out and have
been closed up all day. They have been closing at night and opening
in the morning. Because of the spawning I decided to do some
maintenance, blow debris off the rocks, clean the glass and use
bonded filters to catch debris and changed them twice. I did water
tests and found my nitrite is at .25.
<Mmm, could be
artifactual... might be just subse/conse-quent from the cleaning>
Now I had purchased the Purigen bag as the LFS suggested but they
also said that using charcoal would be redundant. Unfortunately, I
did not take water tests at the time of the exchange. Could that
have caused the nitrites to go up or did the spawning do that?
<Mmm, both, either>
Could the nitrites be why my green star
polyps closed up?
<Likely the soft coral effecting it... but,
yes>
The remainder of the tests are as follows:
1.024 -
Salinity
0 - Ammonia
0 - Nitrate
0 - Phosphate
8.2 -
pH
10 - dKH
480 - Calcium
.03 - Iodine
After seeing
the results of the test I did a one gallon water change and inserted
a filter bag with charcoal into the modified AquaClear 70. A retest
two hours later showed 0 Nitrite.
<Ah, yes... readily cycled
out>
When I brought home the green star polyps inside the
mat was a hitchhiking feather duster or tubeworm that did not like
his new location and picked up and moved to the underside of the
same rock I placed the mat. That was interesting to watch. Anyway,
for the feather duster, star polyps and tree coral I apply Live
Farms BioPlankton once a week and DTs Reef Blend once a week (one
midweek and one over the weekend calculating the amount for a 10
gallon tank). Is that sufficient food for them?
<Mmm, along
with whatever is produced endogenously... likely and apparently so>
Is this too much for the tank? Could this possibly have caused the
nitrite level to rise?
<Mmm, possibly, but not likely>
I
would like to add one or two more corals but really am not sure what
to add. Drs. Foster and Smith have charts next to their products
showing 'temperament' of the different animals, as well as other
helpful information. Are these fairly correct?
<Yes... fairly>
Should I look for corals that are marked as "peaceful" only since I
have a small tank?
<Yes... a good guide... and small/ish
colonies to start...>
I rearranged the tank a bit so I have one
rock that's set off about an inch or two away from the others, and
was thinking about putting some zoanthid there. Would they still
spread to other areas of the tank?
<Mmm, yes... and these can be
quite noxious...>
I have seen zoanthid growing right up to green
star polyps in the LFS display tank and they 'appear' okay.
<Their "conditions" are likely more facile... larger (diluting)
volume... temporary housing...>
Would the zoos over time take
over as they are listed as semi-aggressive?
<Likely so, with
time>
The sun coral is doing well and Tuesday I noticed a
baby a little larger than a pinhead, but it is in a gap in the shell
that the colony is on.
<Also neat>
I've attached a photo
with a circle to show where it is. As it grows will its shell get
cracked?
<Mmm, yes>
Or, as it grows will it conform to the
space.
<A bit of dominance likely...>
Its tentacles are
fully extended at night and are just outside that small gap. The
others have not yet extended their tentacles. The photo was taken
2/1/07 as a record and as you can see there is no baby in the
picture, so this is something that occurred in the last 2 weeks.
<You're on top of it!>
Going back regularly to the LFS for
water refills, I'm sorry to say the other two sun corals that were
there are dying. They replaced mine by purchasing another so they
had 3 on display for sale. Over a 3 week period one ended up having
hair algae covering it, which when I went back again was gone. The
other two are starving. Their color is fading, some areas are
turning black. It really bothers me every time I go there to see
them in that state.
<Mmm... you know this Dendrophylliid must
have each polyp individually fed... usually in/towards "lights
out"... about Iodine/ide treatments?>
Back to the subject
of fish in a 10-gallon tank. Please don't cringe. The reason I
keep asking is because when I search through forums I read things
like "I have 2 Cinnamon clowns in my 10 gallon for a year"
<... not suggested>
or when asking the LFS I get answers that
just don't seem right. I was looking at a pygmy angel in a tank at
the LFS (just looking honest). The salesperson said a Flameback
Angel would be a better choice for my 10-gallon tank.
<Please
don't>
I questioned that I had read the minimum recommended
tank size should be 20-30 gallons.
<I agree>
The reply was
that they need that space to hide from other fish but would be fine
in a 10-gallon tank alone.
<Mmm, no>
How tempting. but
personally I think they need more swimming room.
<Yes... and
also for psycho-emotional reasons>
Anyway, I was thinking more
in the line of one or two tank raised neon gobies or one tank raised
Percula or Ocellaris clown.
<Better>
It wouldn't be anything
I would add now, but a few months down the road if I decide to add
fish that is. I am considering adding a second cleaner shrimp (L.
amboinensis).
<I would not>
Would my current resident
shrimp despise or approve his new tank mate?
<Too likely to be
trouble... esp. during molts>
If I did decide to add a fish in
the future would having two shrimp in the tank with it be too much
(for my tank size)? It's funny (well not really) but the LFS had me
buy this book on nano-reefs when I first started setting up. The
template they have for a 10 gallon tank is 1 blackcap Gramma, 1
Rainford's Goby and 1 Brazilian Flameback Angelfish, 2 peppermint
shrimp, 1 assorted scallop (Lima sp), 1 Condylactis sp anemone.
<Ridiculous>
I won't list the rest. Isn't that a bit much? Or
am I the one who really isn't understanding this?
<Your
understanding is approaching perfection. Keep that curious, dubious
to the point of cynicism view/filter, and you'll do fine. BobF> | 
Are these
Capnella? Close up
of polyp expelling egg (center)
<Yes, appear so to me. RMF>
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Scleronephthya
Hi Bob,
<Omar>
Very good site, has helped me
on numerous occasions in this contradictory hobby!
My question, I
have a Scleronephthya in my aquarium that I have had for 4 months, it is
upside down in a cave/overhang, near a powerhead providing rotating
flow. I feed it live phyto daily (mix of 3 species of phyto) and
Cyclop-eeze once a week, which it seems to 'enjoy', I have seen it
consume the whole copepod on occasion. I bought it as 1 coral, I now
have 3 new baby ones so the cave is being filled with the coral, the
original has put out new branches and is getting bigger, can I take
frags of this coral??
<Yes... but I would wait a few more months>
Also after having such a positive experience with this coral I should
like to try my hand at a dendro, how much more difficult are they, what
must I do differently for dendro?
<About the same>
Thank you for
your continuing help and advice
Regards
Omar
<Please do monitor
what you're doing, share with others... in an article or two... with
photographs. Bob Fenner>
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